Aboubakar Fofana: indigo impresario

Bespoke hand-woven textiles from a Mali-based artisan

The colour blue has long captivated artists from impressionist painters to Japanese wood-blockers, and for the Mali-based artist Aboubakar Fofana it is indigo – and traditional African dyeing techniques – that is close to his heart. The master craftsman and calligrapher creates stunning bespoke textiles from locally sourced plant material in beautiful shades of azure. Fofana delights in projects for companies (clients include Donna Karan and Edun) and private individuals, and creates anything from enormous tents (first picture) to custom bedding, pillows (second picture), clothing, tapestries and art.

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After initial conversations with the client, Fofana sets about sketching the project in a storyboard fashion and producing a unique set of dyes from dried, green indigo leaves sourced from West Africa. Handwoven textiles are dyed to meet a client’s choice within a 12-colour range that runs from the lightest ice blue to a rich navy that is almost black. “Clients have come to the atelier pointing to the sky and asking for that particular shade. If the nuance can be dyed in indigo, I am happy to create textiles for anyone who understands my work.”

Basic commissions (from $235 per m) are completed in four to six weeks, with larger-scale pieces – the upholstery of an entire room, for example – taking up to several months. Clients can choose from organic materials such as cotton, linen, ramie and hemp, as well as wool, cashmere and silk. “Much of my own work uses handspun Malian cotton,” explains Fofana. “I love the texture, character and humanity that exists in these textiles.”

Based in the city of Bamako, Fofana remains committed to revitalising interest in his country’s dyeing traditions. “Over many years I have learned about this art through other masters, through reading, studying and practising. It has taken a long time to reconstruct a process that has largely been lost and to practise it as my ancestors did. It has finally produced some good results.”

Better than good: his results are fantastic.

By commission from Atelier Courbet, 175-177 Mott Street, New York (+1212-226 7378; www.ateliercourbet.com).





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