Delicious chemistry
A bite-sized gastronomic adventure in Washington, DC
When it comes to molecular gastronomy, I’m afraid I’ve missed the boat. Engineered foods and bizarre concoctions have never been my passion – that was, until my recent visit to Washington, DC’s Minibar, a 12-seat gourmet extravaganza located in the city’s Penn Quarter. The brainchild of chef-cum-chemist José Andrés, Minibar – and the adjacent “culinary cocktail lab” Barmini – is an intimate space with a curved counter surrounding a bustling, open-plan kitchen. With just two sittings per night (for 24 diners in total, plus one chef’s table that accommodates just six and costs $3,000), this may be the toughest booking in town, but the email hassle to get one (no reservations are taken by phone) is well worth the endeavour.
Chef Andrés trained with elBulli’s Ferran Adrià and is in constant communication with other chef-innovators such as Heston Blumenthal. Here, the kitchen-laboratory is manned by three cooks, with five others prepping behind the scenes, overseeing everything from a liquid nitrogen bath to heat sealers, smoke guns and a candy-floss machine.
I was blown away by the theatricality of the dining experience. Elaborate tasting menus are made up of 28 “bites” with contrasting temperatures and textures – such as a “pillow” of peanut butter and jelly (second picture); coconut sticky rice with mango; and a cool dessert of “pine snow” with honey – and the effect is exhilarating. On the evening of my visit a delicate parmesan leaf; beech mushroom risotto with summer truffle; and smoked oysters with escabeche took centre stage, while one-bite puddings and a Ron Zacapa rum from Guatemala wound up the feast.
Diners really need to be prepared to give themselves over to the experience – right down to following the instructions on how to consume each tiny course. I felt like I went on a real adventure, discovering churro tendon and Oaxan marshmallow on my gastronomic travels. If the contemporary dining room (first picture) weren’t so warm and Barcelona-chic – with lots of stylish leather seats and a relaxed chef’s table nook – it might veer towards the pretentious, but as it is, it isn’t like that in the least.
A robust wine list, including Cabernets from the Napa Valley and 2002 grand cru burgundies, is matched by four menu-pairing options, and Minibar can also source virtually any wine, from any vintage, from anywhere in the world with just two weeks’ notice. For a kick-starter aperitif or calming digestif, the cocktail list is zingy, too.
Last but not least, the staff: warm, friendly and not at all stuffy – and just as excited as me about all the culinary creativity happening in their midst.