The Cause: super-chef Dan Barber’s mission to save small farms

Bright orange persimmon and Green Zebra tomatoes. Red-hot Jedi jalapeno, mild Cornicabra and sweet Serrano peppers. Such are the bursting-with-colour-and-flavour contents of three mini kitchen gardens in Tarrytown, New York. All have been planted by junior cooks furloughed in the wake of Covid-19 by super-chef Dan Barber, proprietor of the award-winning Blue Hill restaurants in Greenwich Village and Westchester County.

Blue Hill at Stone Barns Farm | Image: Alice Gao

The trio were guinea pigs for the sustainability advocate’s lockdown-inspired grow-your-own initiative: resourcED. “When the restaurants closed in March, we surveyed 500 small farms across the US and 30 per cent said they were in jeopardy of bankruptcy due to reduced demand, as well as from the social-distancing measures that were put in place at farmer’s markets,” says Barber. Packaging and delivering enough individual farm boxes to match lost restaurant bulk orders proved impossible for many small farms during peak harvest.

Barber’s reaction was not only to set up a farm-box shop from his closed restaurant, but also to approach Jack Algiere of Stone Barns Farm (the location of one Blue Hill restaurant) to “see if he’d be game to have some of our cooks return and grow their own gardens”. The aim was to kickstart a worldwide educational initiative teaching young chefs (and the broader cooking-enthusiast community) about the importance of small-batch, rotational growing, to raise the profile of small farms and to support the independent food movement throughout the pandemic – and beyond. Algiere donated three pristine pieces of ground, and wrote a “recipe for a basic kitchen garden in a language that spoke to food lovers,” says Barber. And a truly grass-roots Kitchen Farming Project was born.

Jack Algiere of Stone Barns Farm wrote a “recipe” for a kitchen garden | Image: Adam Lupsha

Having launched on 11 May with just 50 gardens, the project grew to 2,800 across five continents and 66 countries in just three weeks. Now there are more than 3,200 participants, with a post-solstice recipe introduced to encourage the later planting of cabbage, kale, fennel, beet, coriander, Swiss chard and sunflowers. Barber’s starry roster of early supporters – Alain Ducasse, Daniel Humm and Yotam Ottolenghi among them – have added momentum to the social movement. “We now have chef-farmers in Slovenia and São Paulo, Australia, Japan and the UK,” says Barber. “I don’t even know chefs in Uganda or Greece, but gardens have popped up there as well, all by word of mouth.”

The Blue Hill cooks plant out seedlings

The garden “recipe” is simple: a 12 x 15 plot is divided into six suggested families of vegetables, each rotated over approximately a six-month period – and each chosen according to personal taste and individual location. But the common thread is a celebration of small farming, and the importance of diversity. 

The Blue Hill team in their garden | Image: Adam Lupsha

“This doesn’t mean just diversity of flavours or textures, but also of planting and timing,” says Barber. “Diversity is at the heart of everything healthy – every ecosystem and environment. You can’t flood your menu with just brassicas or night shades, and so [growing vegetables] becomes a lesson for cooks to see the restrictions and pleasure the seasons impose on them. This isn’t just about building a garden, but building a strong one that can produce 1,000lbs of vegetables before it’s done.”

A Kitchen Farming Project in Kyoto

“Small farms are key. It would be an environmental disaster if the legacy of this epidemic was farming on an even more industrial scale,” says Yotam Ottolenghi, whose chefs are currently tilling, planting and harvesting everything from broad beans to sorrel – with “tomatoes on the way” – in the north London garden.

“I don’t know what the future holds,” says Barber. “But building your own kitchen garden helps to create a consciousness around food waste and space, and this moment exposes just how ludicrous it is to assume waste when the resources are so clearly threatened.”

“We hope this becomes a network that catalyses local and regional change,” adds Algiere, who is one of the farmers providing one-on-one gardening consultation for those emailing from all over the world. “We’re learning from nature and from each other’s practices, and at the end of the day, people understand why small farmers are so important to our food system.”

For now, a global corps of chefs and food lovers are planting and harvesting in the hope of supplying their own restaurants and home kitchens – as well as soup kitchens and schools – with their bounty.And those without a green space or green fingers can buy a food box (10 for $150) to donate to families in need.“This is a passionate group of social-change makers,” says Algiere. “Building a garden only takes one person. Growing something is a proactive step.”

Daniel Humm talks personal taste

The Swiss chef and restaurateur, who is behind the new Davies and Brook restaurant at Claridge’s, is invigorated by Russian banya treatments, Pierre Jeanneret furniture and Kyoto’s kaiseki cuisine.

My personal style signifier is clean, white Nike Air Force 1 trainers. These are my one constant and I switch them out frequently. They work with my neutral uniform of white, grey and black T-shirts and jeans, and are comfortable in the kitchen too. From £79.95; nike.com. 

The last thing I bought and loved was a pair of black Salomon hiking boots. They weren’t terribly expensive and they give me such pleasure. They’re super‑comfortable, safe and waterproof, so I use them for weekend hikes, everywhere from Aspen to Sun Valley to Switzerland. $165; salomon.com. 

On my wishlist is a Cannondale F-Si Hi-MOD World Cup mountain bike. I want to use this sleek black design for cycling in California and in the Palisades, just outside New York City. $11,000; cannondale.com. 

The last music I downloaded was Anima by Thom Yorke. All our restaurants have musical inspiration – Miles Davis for Eleven Madison Park, The Rolling Stones for The NoMad and Radiohead for Davies and Brook. When I was first working in the Claridge’s kitchen 27 years ago, I was listening to Radiohead’s first album, Pablo Honey, and Yorke’s music has been the soundtrack to my career. 

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is India. I spent six weeks there – a lot of it in Jaipur and Udaipur – and it was life-changing. Everything is different: the weather, the food, the smells, the architecture, the spirituality. I stayed at Samode Haveli, which felt very of the place, and practised yoga and meditation. The crowded markets, people dressed in vibrant colours, the cows and monkeys in the streets… I was out of my comfort zone, but in the best – very freeing – way. samode.com. 

And the best souvenir I’ve brought home is the Kangaroo chair by Pierre Jeanneret that I found in Chandigarh. This city, designed by Le Corbusier, is spectacular, and the chair is not only a great piece of design – it also serves as a memento of a special, transformative trip. It now sits in my living room in New York.

A recent “find” is the South Kensington Club in London. You can get a day pass, and the Russian banya – a sauna with steam – is incredible. There’s a traditional treatment where they beat you with branches, plunge you into cold water and then feed you honey. The experience lasts two hours and leaves you feeling incredibly energised. southkensingtonclub.com. 

The grooming staple I’m never without is Tom’s of Maine spearmint toothpaste. It’s whitening and contains no artificial flavours or preservatives, and it’s pretty much my go-to no matter where my travels take me. tomsofmaine.com. 

A note from Humm’s daughters, a treasured gift | Image: Harry Mitchell

The last meal that truly impressed me was at Brat in east London, a fun place with a casual vibe where they use serious, high-quality ingredients. It’s inspired by Basque cuisine. I had the signature whole roasted turbot from the charcoal grill, as well as perfect anchovies and roasted greens. They also serve a Spanish burnt cheesecake that’s cooked in a wood oven and is not to be missed – it’s incredible. bratrestaurant.com.

My style icon is Mick Jagger. He is just totally cool and has always been ahead of the times, playing fearlessly with fashion. He isn’t afraid to express himself through his clothes.

The South Kensington Club

My favourite room in my house is my library, which holds my book collection. It has a Donald Judd table and a pair of Pierre Jeanneret Library chairs that I love, and it’s a very creative, light-filled space. I often draw in here…

The best gift I’ve given recently was a birthday dinner for 20 people, cooked by me, for a very special friend. This was something that they couldn’t buy, and I know all their favourite dishes, so the menu was vegetable-focused.

Jacques Selosse Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut

And the best gift I’ve received recently was a card given to me by my two daughters Colette and Vivienne, who are eight and nine years old. It was an origami-like envelope that they made and filled with sweet notes… Hard to beat that!

The artists whose work I would collect if I could are Mark Rothko and Agnes Martin. I feel like Rothko is a mirror of oneself; his work brings out the viewer’s emotions and, depending on my mood, his paintings either make me melancholy or lift my spirits. Agnes Martin’s work is very architectural in feel and that resonates with me. Her subtle paintings are about memory, beauty, feeling…

The last item of clothing I added to my wardrobe was a dark suede bomber jacket from Prada that I bought in Zürich to wear with jeans and a T-shirt at any time of year. prada.com.

I have a collection of books, particularly those devoted to cooking, architecture and design. From old and antique to beautiful new art books, I have amassed too many to count over the past 30 years, and they fill my shelves in both New York and Switzerland.

Humm in the kitchen at Claridge’s | Image: Harry Mitchell

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be an architect or an interior designer. I like anything to do with structure and materiality and, having grown up with an architect father, it’s something I always thought about doing. I would also love to be a painter.

My wellbeing gurus are the teachers at the Iyengar Yoga Institute of New York. I have been going there three or four times a week for the past 10 years, and it has changed my health. It’s a very serious, rigid practice – it’s not about being cool, and there is no chit-chat. I also rely on my acupuncturist, Ted Dugas, who is a total body savant. iyengarnyc.org. Ted Dugas, +1917-750 7966.

Humm’s Prada suede jacket | Image: Harry Mitchell

In my fridge you’ll always find Siggi’s yoghurt, berries, coconut water and kombucha. I am also a fan of fresh celery juice, so that’s always on hand, as are organic eggs and Gruyère for omelettes. I like champagne, so I usually have a bottle of Jacques Selosse Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut on hand as well. selosse-lesavises.com.

The gadget I couldn’t do without is my iPhone. I am never on a computer, but I use this as an alarm clock, for keeping my calendar, for photos and emails, navigation, weather, WhatsApp, and for social media. I’d be lost without it.

Gieves & Hawkes in Mayfair

An indulgence I would never forgo is really good sushi. I love Japan, but if I can’t get there, then Sushi Noz in New York is the next best thing. It is mesmerising to have the finest chefs in the world create an omakase meal for you for almost three hours. It’s such a privilege to see an artist working at this level. sushinoz.com. 

An object I would never part with is hard to identify. I’m not really very attached to any one material item.

Humm’s style icon Mick Jagger with then wife Bianca | Image: Getty Images

If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d chooseMayfair in London. I’ve been spending a lot of time there recently and I love Gieves & Hawkes in particular. The whole experience of getting suits made there is incredible. DR Harris in St James’s Street is wonderful for all kinds of creams and soaps, and Heywood Hill is the best for antiquarian books. And after an afternoon of shopping, nothing beats the tea and scones with clotted cream and Marco Polo gelée at Claridge’s. claridges.co.uk. drharris.co.uk. gievesandhawkes.com. heywoodhill.com. 

My favourite apps are Citi Bike for getting around New York, and See Saw for navigating contemporary art galleries in cities around the world. It allows you to track openings and favourite artists and even produces a little map with all the galleries in a particular area.

If I didn’t live in New York, I would live in Kyoto. There is a sensitivity in all things here: architecture, nature, where the food comes from, and the people are so gentle and respectful. The temples are amazing: the Katsura Rikyu, Kokedera – or the Moss Temple – and Tofukuji, with its beautiful trees, are among the most sublime. The Ryoan-ji zen rock garden is another super-spiritual place full of stone sculptures, and I’m very happy at Tawaraya Ryokan where you can sleep on the floor in woodland surroundings. Kyoto is famous for kaiseki – multi-course haute cuisine – and Nishikawa is simply the best. Katsura Rikyu, sankan.kunaicho.go.jp. Kokedera, saihoji-kokedera.com. Nishikawa, r.goope.jp/gion-nishikawa. Ryoan-ji, ryoanji.jp/smph/eng. Tawaraya Ryokan, +8175-211 5566. Tofukuji, tofukuji.jp.

12 delectable – and visually dazzling – Yule logs

The best Christmas confections from the world’s most celebrated pastry chefs

The traditional bûche de Noël is hitting new artistic heights this holiday season, using unexpected ingredients and themes. Here’s our pick of the best.

The Four Seasons Hotel George V’s orchid-like creation

Le Royal Monceau-Raffles, Paris

Pierre Hermé’s celebratory ferris wheel of a cake is as much objet d’art as dessert. It has a rotating chocolate wheel studded with macaroons, nougat and caramel, while the log itself combines gingerbread and fruit – figs, candied apricots, morello cherries – all bathed in delicate lemon mousseline and zesty lemon jelly. €250, available December 13-25; leroyalmonceau.com.

Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris

Michael Bartocetti has created an edible homage to the hotel’s artistic director – and florist extraordinaire – Jeff Leatham, whose favourite flower is the orchid. Delicate almond biscuit, crunchy hazelnut, clover-infused cream, hazelnut praline and a luscious layer of Tulakalum chocolate mousse are topped with Meyer lemon zest and mikan tangerine. €95; restaurant-lecinq.com.

The Royal Mansour Marrakech’s offering features Moroccan motifs

Royal Mansour, Marrakech

Within the lavish medina walls, Jean Lachenal has conceived Christmas cakes in flavours of coffee, bourbon vanilla and dark chocolate – each featuring Moroccan patterns and motifs. 450 MAD (about £36), to order; royalmansour.com.

A trompe-l’oeil stack of chocolate books from La Réserve | Image: Delphine Constantini

La Réserve, Paris

This unique Yule log is Adrien Salvert’s riff on the hotel’s Duc de Morny library, with a trompe-l’oeil stack of edible books rendered in chocolate. Beneath the top book cover lies a boxful of chocolates infused with smoky tea and citrus flavours, while the base cake is a nod to the classic French confection itself. €95, to order; lareserve-paris.com.

Park Hyatt Tokyo’s Mont Blanc log

Park Hyatt, Tokyo

Here three variations on the theme are available: Pure White Snow, a streamlined white chocolate mousse with passion-fruit jelly and hazelnut praline crunch; Mont Blanc, with vanilla sponge cake wrapped around a chestnut and rum ganache, paired with maple syrup, roasted walnuts and almond cream; and the Dark Manjari Chocolate version encased in a sleek glaçage. ¥4,700 (about £33), to order; restaurants.tokyo.park.hyatt.co.jp.

The Ritz Paris’s bûche de Nöel | Image: Aimery Chemin

Mandarin Oriental, Paris

This year’s creation by Adrien Bozzolo was made in collaboration with celebrated design firm Gilles & Boissier. A chocolate hut holds a chocolate and passion-fruit cake embellished with tiny toys. €98, available December 20-26; mandarinoriental.com.

The Royal Champagne’s creation is inspired by the Christmas tree seen from the hotel’s terrace

The Ritz, Paris

François Perret’s log is a swirl of chocolate ribbons and hazelnuts, its biscuit base enhanced by an airy cream made with muscovado, and caramelised gold cocoa sprinkles adding the pièce de résistance. €110, to order; ritzparisboutique.com.

Hôtel Metropole Monte-Carlo’s caramel, vanilla and pecan confection | Image: Studio Phenix

Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa, Champillon

Fusing milk-chocolate guanaja and crunchy cocoa nibs with raisins and creamy caramel, this log is given a final subtle yet sweet kick with a hint of local tipple ratafia – a mix of brandy and grape juice. The chocolate Christmas-tree topper is inspired by the one seen from the hotel’s terrace. €85; royalchampagne.com.

The world of French winemaking informs Peninsula Paris’s log

Hôtel Plaza Athénée, Paris

Angelo Musa has won the World Pastry Cup and been named One of the Best Craftsmen in France (Meilleur Ouvrier de France), and now, with colleague Alexandre Defeu, he has created a yule log that looks like it has been plucked from the forest. Combining milk-chocolate mousse and citrus-fruit marmalade with layers of chocolate ganache and biscuit, this is a traditional cake with modern flavours. €120; dorchestercollection.com.

A citrusy extravaganza from Le Meurice

Hôtel Metropole, Monte-Carlo

A holiday fantasy in caramel, vanilla and pecans by Patrick Mesiano and Christophe Cussac, this gold-dusted yule log, decorated with gilded feathers, is perfectly in keeping with its Monaco surroundings. €95; metropole.com.

The Peninsula, Paris

French winemaking traditions inform this year’s limited-edition Yule log by Dominique Costa. Set inside an elegant champagne box topped with a Pinot Noir vine, a cake of chocolate-glazed gingerbread sponge is accented with spiced pears, vanilla mousse and caramelised almond crunch. €118, to order; peninsula.com.

Le Meurice, Paris

Cédric Grolet is known for his love of citrus fruits, and here lemon-infused biscuit and mousse are offset with fresh herbs such as basil, tarragon and mint, followed by a base of roasted cereals – quinoa, sunflower seeds, kasha and linseed – and topped with whipped lemon-yuzu ganache and fromage blanc mousse. From €50, to order; dorchestercollection.com.

Sonia Cheng’s dining boltholes

The CEO of Rosewood Hotel Group believes that informality is key to making deals, from meeting over pineapple buns in Hong Kong to tacos at Annabel’s

“I find that the formality of the boardroom makes it a less conducive place for establishing trust than outside the office in a relaxed, social atmosphere, where people can see how we really work and learn a bit about our values. Rosewood is continually evolving its hospitality concept, and being out in restaurants and hotels is vital to what we do. 

If I am at home in Hong Kong, I focus on breakfast and lunch meetings, as I have four young children and I like to be at home in the evenings to put them to bed. When I travel, however, I pack my schedule with meetings over every meal to make maximum use of my time away. With the opening of our flagship hotel in Hong Kong this spring, and launches in Bangkok, Yangon and Guangzhou this year, much of my time of late has been spent on the road in Asia. Europe is another important area of focus for us, and the London project at Grosvenor Square often brings me to that city to meet partners and investors.

In general, I prefer a casual setting, particularly when it comes to breakfast. In Central Hong Kong that means milk tea and pineapple buns with butter from Kam Wah Café, or a healthy breakfast – maybe avocado toast with great coffee – at Classified, for its laidback atmosphere. In London, in addition to the Mirror Room restaurant at our property in Holborn, my breakfast go-tos are The Modern Pantry in Clerkenwell and Daylesford in Marylebone because they have an authentic feel and serve excellent green juices and B Renewed Smoothies, respectively. 

When I am hosting real-estate developers for dinners in Hong Kong, my favourite place is Duddell’s, where the Michelin-starred Cantonese cuisine – especially the dim sum – served in a festive atmosphere sets everyone at ease. In London, I like the members’ club ecosystem and will often entertain over dinners of lamb barbacoa and tacos at Annabel’s in Mayfair. There is a missed opportunity in Hong Kong for the community-driven members’ club concept.

In the lead-up to the launch of our latest Asian properties, I have been doing food R&D whenever – and wherever – possible. Meals in Los Angeles have been particularly important as the food scene is flourishing there right now. I had a recent dinner at Bestia in downtown LA with developer Rick Caruso to discuss our just‑opened Miramar Beach Montecito property – the charred Brussels sprouts and cavatelli alla norcina set the stage for a productive discussion. Some of our greatest inspirations have come from closer to home, however. The roasted pigeon – a classic dish at Stellar House – was one; the scene at The Sports Club another. Hopefully these inspirations will come together in one vibrant place overlooking the harbour – one that pays homage to the Shunde cuisine of my grandfather’s youth.

I do go out for drinks, especially in New York or London. The Ned in London is a good place for the various bar offerings, and if I’m in New York, it is always Bemelman’s Bar at The Carlyle. The old-school atmosphere – often with live music – and classic cocktails are ideal for a drink with colleagues or an investor. In Hong Kong the drinking is never excessive – maybe one or two after dinner. Ping Pong is a lively spot for a great gin and tonic, and one that makes for the perfect end to a productive day.”

A long weekend in Zürich with Daniel Humm

The chef behind Manhattan’s world-beating Eleven Madison Park talks his hometown’s finest – from church spires to scrumptious bratwurst – with Christina Ohly Evans.

When people think of Zürich, it’s often banks or high-end watches that come to mind, but really it’s a historic, intimate city with an incredible quality of life. What makes it so special – besides the surrounding nature and the fact that it’s so central in Europe – is the Swiss. They’re just good citizens, always polite and respectful of the rules. Most people here speak four languages – or two at a minimum – and travel extensively, which gives them a worldly perspective that I don’t always find elsewhere.

What’s also wonderful about Zürich is that it hasn’t changed: the medieval houses and the Fraumünster church in the old town, with its green steeple, have been left totally alone. These buildings were beautiful when built, and strict architectural codes mean they will remain that way forever. There have been enhancements over time, of course, and the infrastructure is just incredible: trains, trams and buses all run on time, and are all clean and safe – in fact, I don’t think there’s a better public transport system anywhere on earth. To illustrate the point, I took a recent trip on a Swiss train and it ran 12 minutes behind schedule; the conductor explained over the intercom that this delay was due to a problem on the French side, not theirs. The Swiss are never late.

St Peter Church at Christmas time

We are a small country surrounded by Germany, Austria, France and Italy, so there are many influences in terms of culture and food, but at the end of the day we are farmers and that’s reflected in our classic cuisine. You don’t come to Zürich so much for global cuisine, but for sausages and rösti – which have a real sense of place. I don’t want to eat sushi here. 

Visitors have a lot of choices when it comes to great hotels. The family-run Baur au Lac is one of my favourites; it’s a really traditional place, not flashy at all, with beautiful views of Lake Zürich and the Alps. It’s good if you need to access the financial district, or for shopping on the nearby Bahnhofstrasse. Its fine-dining restaurant, Pavillon, is in a sort of indoor garden; I always make a point of eating here because the chef is so talented. While the menu changes frequently, his food is always elevated but with a classic foundation.

Another great place to stay is the Widder Hotel in the old town. It’s made up of a series of medieval townhouses that have been cobbled together, and it strikes the balance between old and new perfectly. There are only 49 rooms here and each one is different from the others: some have views of the surrounding cobblestone streets and others have unexpected touches, such as an iconic Eames chair. Taken all together, it’s quite charming. The Storchen Zürich, right on the River Limmat, falls into this quaint category too. It has existed since the 14th century, and while the hotel was recently updated, its signature storks can still be found on the walls and the views of the church spires are fantastic.

Of course, food is central to any Zürich experience, so I like to start the day at John Baker. Yes, that is literally the name of the best bakery in Zürich: it’s co-owned by Jens Jung, an artisan who comes from a long line of bakers – he spent some time at the wonderful Tartine in San Francisco, where he learnt from the best, before coming back here to make breads according to Swiss traditions. Another win for breakfast is the café Confiserie Sprüngli. I particularly like the cakes, the colourful Luxemburgerli macaroons and the chocolate truffle-filled brioche. One of those with a morning cappuccino, is perfection.

The Limmat river flows through the old town

Konditorei culture is very important in Zürich life. Café Schober is a very cute, authentic spot that serves an excellent Gugelhupf, a traditional cake made with almonds and raisins, while Teuscher is the place to go for every imaginable type of chocolate – and a good coffee.

When it comes to restaurants, it’s best to approach things by type of cuisine. Kronenhalle is an institution and in addition to great (and authentically Swiss) food, you’re surrounded by masterpieces by the likes of Picasso and Rauschenberg – even the lights are by Alberto Giacometti. The bar here is an ideal place for a cocktail and beef tartare, before moving on to a dinner of sliced veal with rösti. The service is very old-school; I think it’s an absolute must.

Kronenhalle is a Zürich institution decorated with works by Picasso and Rauschenberg

For a truly Alpine feel, I like Obere Flühgasse in the old town. It’s really tiny, all done in warm woods – and the mixed salad with bacon, consommé and rösti feels very local. In winter, I always order vermicelles – a dessert made of chestnut purée that’s very specific to Switzerland. I had a magnificent steak frites at Wystube Isebähnli, a 25-seat bistro in the old town with a big focus on wines as well (the menu, created using seasonal produce, changes every week). The best food in town, however, is at the bratwurst restaurant Sternen Grill – every local knows this place. It’s great for a veal sausage with a beer, not to mention top people-watching – you’ll see people from all walks of life here.

Beyond the excellent food, this is a city of great churches and museums. The Grossmünster, with its windows by Sigmar Polke, is one of its monumental highlights. St Peter church – which can boast having Europe’s largest tower clock face – is another one to see, as is Fraumünster, which has those beautiful stained-glass windows created expressly for the church by Marc Chagall in the 1970s.

49-room Widder Hotel is made up of a series of medieval townhouses

Whenever I come back from New York, I stock up on things that can only be found here and think it’s a good way to shop. Among the first stops should be Schwarzenbach, purveyor of all kinds of teas, spices, vanilla, dried exotic fruits, nuts and jams. They’re very knowledgeable and I go there to learn. Buchbinderei, a tiny paper store in the old town, is exceptional for stationery and handmade cards. Another one that’s a definite must is the Odeon Apotheke, a gorgeous pharmacy and a good place to buy all kinds of Swiss skincare by super-local brands. 

For really motivated shoppers, the 40km drive to Vitra stockist Betz, in Schauffhausen, is totally worthwhile for the Jean Prouvé designs alone. There’s also the Markthalle under the old viaduct in Zürich-West – it’s kind of like London’s Borough Market meets Manhattan’s High Line – and there are all kinds of shops and food vendors tucked into the old arches. It’s fun to see how a formerly industrial part of Zürich has evolved into something very cool.

In terms of cultural institutions, it’s hard to beat either the Kunsthaus Zürich – with its permanent collection that includes works by Cy Twombly and Mark Rothko – or the Pavillon Le Corbusier. This is the last building the architect designed before he died, and it’s a mixture of glass, steel and colourful panels that contrast beautifully with the nature all around. For contemporary art, it’s Hauser & Wirth, set in a great, lofty warehouse space in a relatively unknown part of town, but always showcasing the greats of today.

Outdoor life is another big focus here. People hike, bike and swim in the Limmat river in summer. One of the best places to engage with nature like a local is Flussbad Oberer Letten, near Zürich-West. This is basically a public swimming pool with decking and places to eat, drink or just relax. To get a mix of art and nature, visit the Zürichhorn – a massive public park where you can walk along the shore of the lake and where you’ll find the humorous Heureka sculpture by Jean Tinguely. During the winter months you can travel just one hour from the city and you’ll be skiing.

Because Zürich is so international there are obviously lots of outside influences coming in, but my hope is that the city and its people will focus on the unique things it has to offer. The level of taste here, the overall aesthetic, is so on point, never overdone; you can see it in the work of such brilliant Swiss architects as Peter Zumthor and Herzog & de Meuron. And the cuisine! The cheeses, the yoghurt, the meats; they are really some of the finest in the world. The city should continue to celebrate them, instead of importing sushi. 

12 days of Christmas Yule logs

’Tis the season to indulge in a traditional bûche de Noël or Yule log. From classic woodland-inspired cakes to chic contemporary sculptures, these edible artworks can be enjoyed around the world…

Hôtel de Crillon Paris

Hôtel Crillon’s head pastry chef Pablo Gicquel took inspiration from the fluted columns of the palace hotel’s Suite Marie-Antoinette when creating this sweet treat. Gicquel’s pillar-shaped cake (€120) is infused with a rich blend of almonds, blueberries and blackcurrant jam hidden inside a Languedoc almond mousse. Serves six to eight; available from December 1 (+331-4471 1525; crillon-paris.com).

Hôtel Plaza Athénée Paris’ bûche de Noel is an edible forest | Image: Studio des Fleurs

Hôtel Plaza Athénée Paris

Executive pastry chef Angelo Musa – a winner of the World Pastry Cup and Best Craftsman in France award – and pastry chef Alexandre Dufeu have moved beyond the traditional design of the Christmas log to create an edible forest for their 2018 bûche de Noël (€120). Seven “snow”-covered trees, made from Madagascar vanilla cake, biscuit, cream and mousse, sit atop a dark chocolate mendicant bar covered with dried and crystallised fruit, creating a centrepiece that is a decadent alternative to the traditional pudding. Serves seven; available from December 1 (+331-5367 6597; dorchestercollection.com).

Le Meurice Paris’ bûche de Noël

Le Meurice Paris

This Christmas, pastry chef Cédric Grolet has designed two Yule logs (€50 or €98), both inspired by his signature chestnut-filled Mont Blanc dessert. The first cake combines chestnuts and mousse on a roasted chestnut base with hazelnut praline. The second delicacy – served only at Restaurant Le Dalí – features roasted chestnuts with a lemon-flavoured hazelnut praline for added zest. The first cake serves either three to four or six to eight people. The smoked chestnut log at Restaurant Le Dalí is available from December 5 to 31, every afternoon from 3.30pm to 6pm – except December 25 – at lunch or dinner for €25 per slice (dorchestercollection.com).

La Réserve Paris’s trompe l'oeil-inspired Yule log

Le Bristol Paris bûche de Noël

Le Royal Monceau – Raffles Paris

Maison Pierre Hermé Paris has created a sculptural Christmas Médélice cake (€126) for the grand Parisian hotel this Christmas that is reminiscent of a winter wonderland filled with snowy peaks and glaciers. The design is dusted with white chocolate “snow”, which melts in the mouth, giving way to layers of lemon cream, candied lemon and jelly, and hazelnut praline. Serves six; available from December 14 to 31 by reservation 48 hours in advance (+331-4299 8864; leroyalmonceau.com).

François Perret’s bûche de Noel for The Ritz Paris | Image: Aimery Chemin

Epicerie Boulud has a selection of Yule logs available in store this Christmas

La Réserve Paris

La Reserve’s two-Michelin-starred executive chef Jérôme Banctel and head pastry chef Adrien Salavert have combined their exceptional skills to create a golden Yule log (€95) inspired by the printed cordovan leather that lines the hotel’s Le Gabriel restaurant. Inside the gilded cake is a blend of Michel Reybier champagne and refreshing fruits: mango, passionfruit, pineapple and coconut. Serves six to eight; available until December 23 by reservation only (+331-5836 6060; lareserve-paris.com).

Park Hyatt Tokyo’s bûche de Noël is a Japanese take on Christmas cake

Pastry chef Dominique Costa has crafted a contemporary bûche de Noël with an Asian aesthetic for Peninsula Paris

Le Bristol Paris

Pastry chef Julien Alvarez, named World Pastry Cup champion in 2011, presents a feast for the eyes and table for 2018. His trompe l’oeil design is a truffle Yule log (€140) like no other. It presents as a wooden box with an engraved bronze plaque, which, on closer inspection, is in fact part of the cake – every inch edible. Inside, what appears to be truffles turn out to be sweet treats, made from soft biscuit and hazelnut with creamy hearts of gianduja (a sweet chocolate spread with hints of vanilla) and real black truffles. Serves eight; limited editions available from December 1 to 31 (+331-5343 4342 or email cafeantonia.lebristolparis@oetkercollection.com).

Mandarin Oriental Paris channels Alpine slopes and snow-covered firs with its Christmas treats | Image: Mathilde de l’Ecotais

Hotel Metropole Monte-Carlo crafted a culinary artwork with Le Bois dans Ecrin

The Ritz Paris

This year, The Ritz Christmas log (€110) is all about honey – specifically, the grand cru Erica variety sourced in the Pyrénées. Pastry chef François Perret has combined the delicacy with a Savoy sponge cake and whipped cream, topped with roasted gianduja almonds. The final pièce de résistance is a lacy wafer that is a nod to honeycomb dipped in chocolate. Serves six; available to order from December 1 (+331-4316 3274; ritzparis.com).

Epicerie Boulud New York

Daniel Boulud has created a selection of bûches de Noël for 2018 that are gourmet works of art. The colourful collection includes a Chocolate Caramel log decorated in gold leaf, which is a combination of Illanka tonka bean and dark chocolate mousse, caramel crémeux and flourless chocolate biscuit. The Exotique cake fuses passion fruit and banana mousse, roasted pineapple, mango confit and coconut dacquoise confection, while The Chestnut Blackberry Yule log is layered with mousse, blackberry gelée, chestnut biscuit, blackberry mousse and chestnut vermicelli. Last but not least is a chocolate and coffee Classic Opera cake topped with chocolate Santas. Serve six to eight; available to preorder and in stores from December 18 (epicerieboulud.com).

Park Hyatt Tokyo

The Bûche Tokyo (¥4,500, about £31) is a Japanese take on the Christmas cake. Think Uji matcha tea mousse, surrounding a centre of tangy yuzu curd, and matcha tea sponge layered with toasted sesame crunch, resting on a crisp sable biscuit. The finished creation is so beautiful, it’s almost shame to devour it… Serves three to four; available from December 21 to 25 (+813-5323 3462; hyatt.com).

Peninsula Paris

L’Ecrin (€98) by pastry chef Dominique Costa is a contemporary bûche de Noël with an Asian aesthetic, which is presented as a case that opens to reveal a delicious bûche. Sandalwood-smoked chocolate mousse smoothers a molten mandarin core, with a buckwheat crisp biscuit infused with dulce de leche. Serves six to eight; available by reservation 48 hours in advance from December 17 to 31 (+331-5812 2888; paris.peninsula.com).

Mandarin Oriental Paris

Chef pâtissier Adrien Bozzolo has created an elegant contemporary design inspired by Alpine slopes and snow-covered firs for Christmas 2018 (€78). The white chocolate trees rest on a crunchy biscuit filled with citrus fruit and pecans, and a mandarin orange marmalade flavoured with maple syrup. Serves eight; available to order 48 hours in advance from December 21 to 31 at the hotel’s Cake Shop (mandarinoriental.com).

Hotel Metropole Monte-Carlo

Executive chef Christophe Cussac and pastry chef Patrick Mesiano have conjured a culinary artwork in Le Bois dans écrin (€95) or “forest in a box”, which is “wrapped” in an edible carmine red box, revealing a realistic-looking “log” composed of biscuit with creamy cazette ultra fondant and a gourmet icing with chocolate and hazelnut chips. Available to order from December 10 (metropole@metropole.com).

Custom cookware in silver and copper

Duparquet pans are entirely handcrafted

It was a holiday in Burgundy – and in particular a transcendent meal at famed restaurant La Côte d’Or – that spurred mechanical engineer Jim Hamann to pursue his passion for pans. Inspired by the cookware of the region, Hamann returned home to Rhode Island and opened a studio restoring pots and pans of varying sizes and vintages, such as early-1900s American-made copper frying pans, and tin- and silver-lined sauté pans from Le Cordon Bleu.

Full 22-piece sets of silver-lined copper cookware ($12,500-$15,000) and solid-silver sets (from $50,000) can also be commissioned

Hamann’s love of food and product design meet in the custom cookware he now crafts for a growing global clientele that includes chefs Alain Ducasse and Daniel Humm of Eleven Madison Park. What began as a range of copper pots and pans – 6in fait-tout models for sauces ($380) and larger sauté versions ($650) – has grown to include a made-to-order selection of stunning solid-silver pans “that have more even heat conductivity than copper,” says Hamann.

Sizes, grips and other embellishments can be altered according to a client’s specific tastes. In general, there are 12 different sizes to choose from, with 9in omelette and frying pans ($2,800) among the most popular. Straight-sided sauté pans in 8.75in and 12.5in sizes (up to $10,000) are other common requests, and each is solid silver with sterling silver rivets. Only the handles are made of cast iron ­– “because they don’t conduct heat,” Hamann explains – and covered in hand-stitched leather. Full 22-piece sets of silver-lined copper cookware ($12,500-$15,000) and solid-silver sets (from $50,000) can also be commissioned, though clients need to be prepared to wait as more complex orders can take three months or more.

Hand-stitched leather covers the cast iron handles of the pots and pans

All the craftsmanship – from the pans to matching copper inlaid maple burl and teak knives (from $190-$230) and the leather detailing – is performed by Hamman and his small team. The only exceptions are the linen-lined ash boxes custom made for each pan by a local Rhode Island School of Design student “who is both a furniture designer and a foodie,” says Hamman.

Dine like Dior

Christian Dior was passionate about cuisine and couture, and the Hôtel Plaza Athénée – the address where he showed his inaugural collection – has created a menu inspired by the designer’s cult cookbook

Haute couture meets haute cuisine at the Hôtel Plaza Athénée, Paris, where those in town for fashion week (July 1-5) can sample the Menu Dior at Le Relais Plaza restaurant – created by chef Philippe Marc under the command of multi-Michelin-starred chef Alain Ducasse. Christian Dior was a passionate gourmet, and the three-course dinner (€90) – inspired by the designer’s cult cookbook La Cuisine Cousu-Main, published in 1972 – features a selection of his favourite dishes.

A Dior model at the hotel in 1947

The brasserie’s art deco setting – modelled on legendary liner the SS Normandie – creates a stylish backdrop for a starter of mimosa egg with smoked haddock and a green Granny Smith apple garnish, followed by succulent grilled lamb chops with braised lettuce and thick-cut, crispy potato savonnettes bathed in a delicate jus. The designer’s pièce de résistance, a seasonal strawberry Melba, tops off the evening.

Le Relais Plaza restaurant in 1937 – the art deco interior was inspired by the SS Normandie

The hotel facade as Christian Dior would have seen it

The palace hotel figured prominently in Christian’s Dior’s life – in 1947 he established his atelier across the street at 30 Avenue Montaigne, and he showed his inaugural collection at the hotel. Later, Dior’s iconic Bar suit was named after the Plaza Athénée’s cocktail lounge.

Laid-back lunch in Connecticut from a Noma alumnus

Laid-back lunch in Connecticut from a Noma alumnus

When I think of Kent, Connecticut, images of rolling hills, prep schools and antique shops dotted across quaint villages all come to mind. Less often associated with the area are design-led restaurants with Noma-level cuisine and service – but that’s exactly what I found at Swyft on a recent trip to Litchfield County, two hours north of New York City.

Swyft opened at the end of last year in an 18th century Connecticut house

The restaurant opened at the end of last year in an 18th-century house and combines original immense stone fireplaces and post-and-beam construction with simple furnishings, lighting and greenery courtesy of an all-star team with design credits that include work at Claridge’s, The Carlyle and Calvin Klein Home.

The kitchen is helmed by chef Joel Viehland, a local celebrity who has cooked at Noma and Gramercy Tavern, as well as at the award-winning Community Table in nearby Washington. What I loved about Swyft from the outset was the casual atmosphere; a dove-grey exterior set the stage for a meal that was low-key and delicious. We all – with ages ranging from 15 to 75 years – fell for what the chef calls his “elevated average Joe” menu, with offerings such as agrodolce-topped burgers with beef-tallow fries and blistered, sourdough margherita pizzas with mozzarella and burrata (the cheese is made in the kitchens).

Swyft chef Joel Viehland

Swyft – named for the family that originally built the house – is an enticing place for a laid-back lunch regardless of the season, but it was particularly cosy on a recent cold spring day. Standout dishes included a proper Cubano sandwich with slow-cooked pork shoulder and Gruyère, and Caldo Verde – a Portuguese potato and kale soup with Linguiça sausage. Grain salads with zingy za’atar dressing, an elegant take on the old-school BLT and a simple-yet-spicy Cacio e Pepe pasta rounded out the menu.

Pickled mussel toast with saffron aioli and bread baked in Swyft's wood oven

But it was those fantastic sourdough pizzas that were our clear favourites, made using a 30-year-old starter, and a Pavesi wood-fired oven from Naples. The Rhode Island – a white version with clams and pancetta – and the Rosso with stracciatella, garlic and oregano were both crispy perfection. And the oven might be imported, but the fresh produce is local and discernible – many of the toppings used come from nearby Rock Cobble Farm.

Later this summer, Viehland will open Ore Hill next door. This fine dining restaurant will offer tasting menus that he hopes will push boundaries in terms of ingredients and flavour combinations, without adding pretention. I, for one, can’t wait to return to Swyft for the La Pienza pizza with wild boar sausage, porcini and roasted peppers, never mind whatever multicourse masterpiece Viehland cooks up at his next venture.

Serious sourdough aficionados’ chosen bakery

Tartine Manufactory’s 100-seat restaurant and bakery is worth the queue

Though sourdough may now be considered almost a given on the menu of any dining establishment worth its starter, serious dough aficionados will know that the mecca for modern artisanal sourdough is Tartine, a San Franciscan bakery founded in 2002 by husband-and-wife partners Liz Prueitt and Chad Robertson. It enjoys a global clientele, including Michelin-starred chefs who come to apprentice in its sprawling kitchens.

Tartine Manufactory, housed in a converted laundry factory, is a 100-seat bakery, restaurant and wine bar

I really didn’t think the whole, now much-copied experience – its famous crusty baguettes, molten chocolate chip cookies and tart blood orange jam – could be improved upon, but they’ve done it with Tartine Manufactory, a 100-seat bakery, restaurant and wine bar. In a converted laundry factory, this Mission District gem opened in 2016 and draws local techies and curious epicures, all of whom happily queue (and there will be a queue) for the array of sweet and savoury delights on offer.

In addition to the wonderful smell from the bakery that greeted me on a recent visit to the space, there is also a convivial buzz as the bakers tend to the huge ovens with long wooden paddles, churning out country sourdough and wholewheat sesame loaves, as well as assorted olive fougasse and oat porridge breads. Dramatic floor-to-ceiling windows let that magical California light stream in, and the overall effect is one of a bustling hive.

A loaf of freshly baked sourdough bread

I arrived for lunch on a busy weekday with three gourmand friends who know the restaurant well, and between us we managed to try just about one of everything on the delicious menu. There are Scandinavian, Japanese, French, Italian and Middle Eastern influences – think smørrebrød and burrata with Meyer lemon and pistachio ($10) – as well as Northern California nods to both local produce and the prevailing preference for vegan cuisine.  

Pain au chocolat, $5

I over-ordered – it all looked so tantalising. A starter of chewy sourdough bread ($5) with creamy butter for the table was a no-brainer and deeply satisfying. They serve beer, wine and coffee all day but we opted for non-alcoholic “Shrub” spritzes ($7), made with essences of strawberry and plum.

The Mission District gem has become a firm favourite of local techies and curious epicures

Each dish that followed seemed better than the last – a flavourful California halibut crudo ($17) with kiwi, leek, puffed rice, mint and coriander; and a little gem salad ($15) sprinkled with carrots, pickled rhubarb, herb ricotta and a splash of Meyer lemon. The hits just kept coming: coddled eggs ($16) with sea trout roe, fresh horseradish and zesty Za’atar toast; gooey grilled cheese ($14) made with Fontina and roasted squash on country bread. Everything is served atop minimalist but earthy bowls and plates by Heath Ceramics in subtle shades of sand and cocoa that just add to the overall sense of aesthetic perfection.

After so many shared dishes, I was sated and opted for dessert to go. Orange sesame teacakes, brioche and jam buns, pecan tarts, and chocolatey swirled breads all beckoned, but ultimately it was the fresh ginger and buckwheat cookies ($4.50) filled with fior di latte that won me over. The ice cream at the in-house Cookies and Cream parlour comes in tempting flavours and the PB&J pie (made with Concord grape sorbet mixed with ice cream, grape pâte de fruit, candied peanuts and peanut cookie shell) is already legendary, so I’ve vowed to return next summer for a meal comprised entirely of these decadent frozen delicacies.

An unmissable Swiss tea and coffee emporium

H Schwarzenbach also offers a vast array of chocolate and honey

When I spent a 24-hour layover in Zurich earlier this year, it wasn’t tea that was top of my to-do list. But I told my foodie friend Kathy YL Chan about my trip, and the tea specialist and writer pointed me firmly in the direction of H Schwarzenbach, a gourmet emporium in the city’s picturesque Niederdorf quarter known for stocking every imaginable variety of loose-leaf tea.

The shop stocks a range of coffee beans, which are roasted in-house

Under the guidance of the store’s owner Heinrich Schwarzenbach – the fifth generation to run this over-100-year-old family establishment – I sniffed and sampled a fragrant Ceylon (SFr9, about £7, for 100g), a Uruguayan yerba mate (about £13 for 1kg) and a Fujian jasmine tea (about £8 for 50g), but it was a bright rooibos (about £5 for 100g) that I ended up leaving with, and that has found a place in my daily routine alongside my morning green and afternoon oolong.

The shop also stocks an equally vast selection of intensely flavourful coffee beans (roasted in-house), aromatic spices, chocolate and dried fruit from all over the world. Schwarzenbach took me through cases of Chilean walnuts (about £4 for 100g) and exquisitely packaged honey (about £16) from Neufchâtel before introducing me to a chocolate selection that is anything but predictably Swiss – there are bars and nibs from Brazil, Bali, Madagascar and beyond, as well as tempting chunks of German marzipan, candied ginger and Provençal Chabert & Guillot nougat (about £5).

Customers can buy chocolate from all over the world

And just next door is Schwarzenbach’s TeeCafé, where I digested all my new-found foodie knowledge with a cup of chamomile and a traditional straumann hüppen – a crispy wafer roll with a delicious gianduja filling.

Top chefs gather to cook the ultimate dinner party and support Edible Schoolyard NYC

Every table eats a different menu – and bids at the live auction

Some of the world’s most noted chefs will come together for nonprofit the Edible Schoolyard NYC’s fifth annual Spring Benefit on April 24, cooking a one-off dinner to help support children in underprivileged New York communities.

David Chang, chair of Edible Schoolyard NYC’s Spring Benefit and chef at Momofuku

The night (from $1,500 per person) will kick off at the Metropolitan West at 6pm with canapés by Sam Goinsalvos of Tartine Manufactory and Nick Curtola of The Four Horsemen, alongside drinks from mixologist Dave Arnold. This will be followed by surprise four-course menus courtesy of a roster of notable names including David Chang of Momofuku, Danny Bowien of Mission Chinese, Eli Kaimeh of Per Se, Justin Smillie of Upland and Joseph “JJ” Johnson of Harlem’s Minton’s. There will also be a live auction featuring lots such as cooking masterclasses, private dinners and a “skip the line” item which give the winner access to hard-to-get-into restaurants.

Last year’s event raised more than $1m for many projects – among them helping fund teachers who provide hands-on food education to young New Yorkers through school gardens and kitchen classrooms. “It’s an education I wish I’d had in my school,” says JJ Johnson. “To see children gain this tool for life by learning about how to grow and cook food, and how to replenish their bodies and take care of themselves gives me a lot of inspiration and hope for the future.” 

Playful portraits of the students at Edible Schoolyard NYC’s demonstration school in East Harlem will help to decorate The Metropolitan West for this year’s fundraiser, which will be reimagined as a garden nirvana featuring lush greens hung from ceilings and columns courtesy of celebrated events planner Bronson van Wyck, whose clients have included Beyoncé, Barack Obama and Bill Clinton.

Dan Barber’s WastED restaurant pop-up heads to Selfridges London

A host of top chefs will create cuisine from discarded ingredients

Michelin-starred chef Dan Barber of New York’s Blue Hill and Blue Hill at Stone Barns is taking his zero-waste, holistic cooking approach to the top of Selfridges London, from February 24 to April 2, with rooftop pop-up WastED.

The juice-pulp burger | Image: Daniel Krieger

As well as demonstrating menus for lunch, dinner and afternoon tea that incorporate discarded ingredients – “everything from misshapen fruits, to stale bread, to parts of animals,” says Barber – the restaurant will broadcast a broader message about agricultural practices and redistributing global food waste through artisan furniture and collaborations with sustainable suppliers such as E5 Bakehouse, Neal’s Yard Dairy, Gilchesters Organics and Selfridges Food Hall.

A star-studded line-up of chefs, including Brett Graham, Jason Atherton, Gordon Ramsay and Clare Smyth, overseen by Barber, will reinterpret British classics such as fish and chips (made with discarded potatoes and bony fish), bubble and squeak, and bangers and mash. Also on the menu will be a juice-pulp burger – a reprise from New York’s 2015 WastED edition – made using leftover vegetable pulp from juicing machines. “It looks like a rare beef burger,” says Barber. Sharing dishes (£15) will feature ingredients such as cabbage cores, sprouts and waste-fed pig parts, all prepared with Barber’s trademark creativity.

The WastED dining room | Image: Mark Ostow

On the drinks front, Iain Griffiths of Mr Lyan will reimagine classic cocktails through the WastED lens, while Henrietta Lovell and the Rare Tea Company will curate the afternoon tea (Tuesday-Friday, 3-5pm, from £32) during which visitors can linger in an art gallery-cum-listening café featuring vitrines that tell the story of the ingredients featured on the menu.

Nut-pressed cakes | Image: Aliza Eliazarov

The decor by Blue Hill design director Laureen Barber, and Garrett Ricciardi and Julian Rose of Formlessfinder also focuses on upcycling, transforming the Selfridges rooftop into a garden/exhibition space with lamps crafted from seaweed and mushrooms by Jonas Edvard and Nikolaj Steenfatt. Eco-plastic tables and chairs and stools made from artichoke thistle and resin by Kizis Studio will sit next to vitrines and bar surfaces crafted from salvaged wood by Wonderwall Studios; even Kristie van Noort’s Cornwall plates are decorated with ceramic paint made from recycled materials.

“Almost one third of the world’s food gets cast aside, but as chefs it’s not in our DNA to be wasteful,” says Barber. “We’ve been refashioning discarded bits into delicacies for centuries: bouillabaisse is made with damaged fish; pot-au-feu with leftover beef and vegetables. The food-waste movement has really taken hold in the UK, so the timing is perfect to work in partnership with chefs and industry leaders to spread the word.”

Nobu Matsuhisa’s insider Tokyo

The chef, restaurateur and newly minted hotelier shares hidden gourmet highlights and perennial cultural favourites with Christina Ohly Evans.

Tokyo is an incredibly sophisticated city, and the energy here is like nowhere else on earth. Despite the hustle and bustle, however, the pace of life is gentler than in cities such as New York and Hong Kong, and the people aren’t aggressive: everything is driven by ritual, and good manners are very important. Unlike other Asian cities – Singapore and Shanghai, for example – most people outside the larger hotels and corporations don’t speak English, and this gives Tokyo a unique feel as well. From the designs of Issey Miyake to the functional underlayers by Uniqlo, this is the city where fashion, technology and attention to quality intersect.

I travel to Tokyo for three days every month to prepare omakase [chef’s] menus at my restaurant in the historic Minato area. I love it in all four seasons, but the mild autumn months and spring, with its cherry blossoms, are my favourite times. The period surrounding the New Year holiday is very special, as it’s celebrated differently in each of Japan’s 47 prefectures. In Tokyo, everything closes down and there is a focus on food and local customs, with people wearing kimonos and going to shrines, such as the incredibly serene Meiji Shrine in Shibuya. Summer is a time of celebrations, including the Sumida River Fireworks Festival, which has been in existence since 1733. They set off thousands of beautiful hanabi – “fire flowers” – and you can view them from the various bridges or from river boats.

Seafood in the depachika (food hall) at department store Mitsukoshi | Image: © Jeremie Souteyrat

One of the most luxurious aspects of Tokyo is its hotels, because hospitality is of the utmost importance in Japan. There is the beautiful, sleek Aman Tokyo, which sits on the top six floors of the Otemachi Tower, and The Peninsula, with its views of the surrounding skyscrapers, where every piece of technology and bathroom fixture has been considered. Both are places that make visitors feel very looked after. The magnificent Palace Hotel overlooks the Imperial Palace grounds and has an incredible sense of history; it is the epitome of Japanese serenity and tradition, and features Michelin-starred chef Shinji Kanesaka’s Sushi Kanesaka. At any of them, you’ll find the classic Japanese breakfast of rice or congee, grilled fish, omelette and assorted pickles – all cooked without oil or butter – that makes for a very light, healthy way to start the day.

One of my favourite ways to begin any day is with a walk through Arisugawa-No‑Miya Memorial Park, in the Minato district, just down from Roppongi Hills. Once the home of a feudal lord, it became a public park in the 1930s, and features waterfalls, a large pond, pathways and plum trees, as well as the impressive Tokyo Metropolitan Central Library. Another good morning activity is a visit to the fish auctions at Tsukiji Market. It’s supposed to move to Toyosu soon, but for now it’s in central Tokyo. Go between 4 and 5am to see the chefs and buyers at work, or 7 to 9am to enjoy the general theatre of the place.

Food is, of course, a major highlight in Tokyo; you’ll find more Michelin stars here than in Paris. Much of this is because of the ingredients: when you put the freshest fish available in the hands of some of the most talented and creative chefs, the results are incredible. In addition, many of the finest Michelin-starred establishments, such as the three-star Sukiyabashi Jiro, have just eight or 10 seats, and some do only one seating per meal, which makes getting a reservation very difficult – even for me. But whether you’re eating in a fine-dining restaurant or a simple udon place, meals don’t typically last long; you can be well fed in 30 to 40 minutes.

There are so many local specialities to be tasted in Tokyo, and one of the best is the tempura at Tenko. Unlike showy teppan cooking, the food is produced in a very thoughtful Zen way here, by two generations of the same family, and it’s brought in sequence, beginning with tea, appetisers and miso soup, before the tempura of shrimp, eel and seasonal vegetables. It’s in a former geisha house, and a seat at the horseshoe-shaped counter is the one to get. For the juiciest pork gyoza and the best noodles, try Tohryu for a casual lunch, or Chikuyotei in Ginza for traditional unagi [eel] with rice. It’s been in business for 130 years, and the tatami rooms here are very popular, so you need to book in advance.

The Palace Hotel overlooks the grounds of the Imperial Palace

Also unmissable is the tonkatsu – deep-fried breaded pork cutlets – at Maisen, which is in a former second world war bathhouse. The understated atmosphere is ideal for enjoying the kurobuta pork, which is perfectly tender, with just the right crispiness. Obana, with its Michelin star, is far from the centre of town, but the unagi served there is excellent. The fact that each dish is prepared at the time of ordering makes it a little time-consuming, but it’s a very authentic dining experience.

Tokyo is known for shopping in part because there are certain things that can only be found here, including high-quality seasonal fruits such as the peaches and persimmons that are grown nearby. Two of the best places are Sembikiya and Shinjuku Takano, which specialise in all things fruit, including cakes, confections and beautifully boxed, very expensive muskmelons that are given as gifts and served in thick slices. Itoya is a favourite for stationery and everything to do with writing: pens and pencils, notebooks, desk accessories. Daikanyama Tsutaya is the bookstore to go to; it’s massive and has antique editions, contemporary fiction and everything in between, in many languages – and all the international magazines. Toraya, in the historic Tokyo Station, is another special place for confectionery gifts, including yokan jellies packaged in lovely Japanese paper. The red bean paste, agar and sugar sweets can be an acquired taste because of the flavour and texture, but try them anyway.

Arisugawa-No‑Miya Memorial Park | Image: Alamy

For totally unique kitchenware – bento boxes, incredible knives – Tokyu Hands is a must; it’s unlike any other department store and I’m always intrigued by at least one gadget I never even knew existed. Takashimaya, Isetan and Mitsukoshi are other noteworthy stores, each with its own depachika, or basement food hall, offering bento boxes, sweets, pickles and more. You can taste everything and they’re very high-tech and traditional at the same time. In terms of the number of offerings and the cleanliness, I’ve not seen anything comparable anywhere, even in New York.

The rich cultural history of this city is reflected in its museums. The Tokyo National Museum houses collections of everything from samurai armour to lacquerware to ancient relics. The Mori Art Museum has smaller rotating contemporary exhibitions that include video installations, and as it’s on the 52nd and 53rd floors of the Mori Tower in the Roppongi Hills, the views are incredible, especially from the rooftop Sky Deck. Fans of the king of animation Hayao Miyazaki will love the Ghibli Museum, which displays his sketches. And foodies should visit Umami Science Square “museum” in Kawasaki – my personal favourite, as it’s a great place to learn about umami, or the fifth taste.

Daikanyama Tsutaya stocks books in many languages | Image: © Jeremie Souteyrat

For a festive evening, I’d have a dinner of sukiyaki and shabu-shabu [thinly sliced meat dishes] at Imahan in Ginza, which has small, private rooms. At the opposite end of things is Sarashina-Horii in Azabu-Juban, for the fresh soba that are made daily and served either hot or cold. It is all about the food here, and people eat very fast; the soba with grated radish and shrimp is absolutely delicious. And to cap off any meal, I recommend a stop at Toshi Yoroizuka in Roppongi, where beautiful desserts are made to order, much like a sushi chef does at a counter, and where watching the exquisite preparation is as rewarding as the final pastries.

Part of why I love Tokyo so much is that there’s always discovery. I’m exposed to new products and new ingredients every time I come, and I love introducing these to people all over the world. I’m continually inspired by Japan and by this city.

A long weekend in Lyon with Daniel Boulud

The Michelin-starred chef takes Christina Ohly Evans through France’s undisputed capital of gastronomy. Portrait by Fabio Massimo Aceto

Lyon has always been empowered by industry and by a rich rural history – it is south of Burgundy and Beaujolais, north of the Rhône Valley – and there are Roman and Renaissance references everywhere. But it has also played an important role in French history: throughout the wars and in times of great change, it has been famous for craftsmanship. The silks, fabrics, steel, intricate woodwork, passementerie – all have long been sought after across the world, and in recent times Lyon has been a leading supplier for luxury brands such as Hermès. From the hilltop Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière to the mysterious underground traboules, this city with two rivers and multiple bridges has a similar beauty to Paris, but on a much smaller scale.

Lyon’s Hotel de Ville with the Fontaine Bartholdi in the foreground | Image: Günter Lenz/Getty Images

One of the very special aspects of Lyon is that food has always been a strong focus. Historically it’s an industrial city, so people had money to spend on it; there has always been a cuisine bourgeoise, and working-class people frequented simple bouchons, where an excellent meal could be had for the price of cooking at home. These establishments are still a staple of Lyon life. When people started driving from Paris to Nice in the 20th century, Lyon became the natural stopping point, and the city had a high concentration of Michelin-starred establishments. Lyon remains the capitale de la gastronomie, though we all still look to Paris, of course.

I visit Lyon five times a year, and I especially love the city in summer, when everyone is outside in the parks and at the farmers’ markets and there are outdoor musical celebrations, such as the festival Les Nuits de Fourvière, held in the Roman amphitheatre. One of my favourite places to stay is Le Royal Hotel, a former family home on Place Bellecour that is now a 74-room hotel. It’s part of the Institut Paul Bocuse, so it’s a culinary school and hotel all in one, elegant and traditional. Another wonderful place for accommodation is Cour des Loges, in the heart of Old Lyon. This Renaissance building has a three-storey frescoed courtyard and the rooms have a cosy, slightly austere feel. One of the most special places to stay, however, is Villa Florentine, which is a boutique Relais & Châteaux hotel in the hills overlooking the city. It has an excellent table and the best views of the town below. It’s a little challenging to get up there, as it is reached by small, winding roads, but it’s worth the effort.

Inside one of the greenhouses at the Parc de la Tête d’Or | Image: © Hemis/Alamy Stock Photo

A great day in Lyon begins at the lively food market Les Halles de Lyon – Paul Bocuse, where you can sample oysters for breakfast, followed by sea urchin, tripe, offal or even tête de veau, and perhaps a glass of wine. All the chefs go there to shop and start their day, and it’s a wonderful place to get picnic ingredients before heading to the Parc de la Tête d’Or in the sixth arrondissement. The largest urban park in France, it has everything from a boating lake to bike trails to a rose garden; it’s a lovely place to spend an afternoon.

The bar at Cour des Loges | Image: Cour des Loges/G Picout, MPM, A Rico, ME Brouet & DR

Before you go, stop at Charcuterie Sibilia to buy meats, particularly the sausage with pistachio and truffle in brioche, and the local minced pork speciality, Jésu de Lyon. For excellent cheeses, you must visit La Mère Richard; its Fourme d’Ambert, Cantal and Saint-Nectaire from the Auvergne are among the best in the world. For pains au levain and praline tarts, Boulangerie Jocteur is a must; it also offers beautiful prepared foods.

Pâté en croûte at Daniel & Denise, a traditional Lyon bouchon | Image: Daniel & Denise

But shopping isn’t limited to Les Halles. I like to buy old cookbooks in the Presqu’île – or “peninsula” – district, near the historic Place des Terreaux. On the east side of the square sits the Hôtel de Ville, a city hall redesigned in baroque style by Jules Hardouin-Mansart after a fire in the 17th century. The surrounding streets are home to bookstores such as Librairie Ancienne Clagahé, which has rare leather-bound books and manuscripts. You’ll also find the city’s most beautiful square, the Place Bellecour, which sits between the Rhône and Saône rivers and is lined with elegant 19th-century buildings.

Another area for exploration is the Croix-Rousse, a historic district that was home to silk weavers – or canuts – and is now Lyon’s answer to hipster Brooklyn. Here you’ll find all kinds of wonderful restaurants, including Balthaz’art, a retro-chic bistro with a creative Montbéliarde beef tartare mixed with black olives, capers and candied lemon. Lunch at Daniel & Denise – an authentic bouchon, complete with red check tablecloths – is another highlight; clapeton d’agneau (chilled, shredded lamb’s feet served atop salad) is a speciality. La Meunière is another such place, where most things are served communally: meals begin with bowls of lentils, celery remoulade and pickled ox muzzle, followed by thick slices of a house pâté en croûte that’s called l’oreiller – “pillow” – de la belle meunière and is filled with foie gras, duck heart, chicken, veal and more.

One newer restaurant is Le Suprême, a modern bistro started by one of my former chefs from Daniel in New York – full disclosure: I’m a minority investor. It offers an inventive, affordable tasting menu focused on poulet de Bresse prepared in many different ways – such as chicken liver mousse or stuffed chicken legs – all with wines from producers such as Jean Foillard and Saint-Joseph. For a fancier lunch place, there is La Mère Brazier – the chicken cooked in a pig’s bladder is a highlight – after which you can wander the indoor-outdoor Les Puces du Canal, where you’ll find memorabilia, antique toys, vintage clothing and furnishings – most of which can be shipped back home. The Museum of Gallo-Roman Civilisation has an incredible collection of mosaics, statues and ceramics. After an afternoon of discovery here, I recommend a visit to Bernachon for a coffee and the best chocolates and sweets anywhere. It was founded in the 1950s, and the family has been making “bean to bar” chocolate on site since the 1970s.

No trip to Lyon is complete without a meal at L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, a temple of gastronomy that sits right on the Saône. The restaurant resembles a colourful Thai palace, and the food is just as elaborate. Loup de mer en croûte feuilletée with sauce Choron – a Béarnaise with tomato – and the oeufs à la neige are two of my favourite dishes, and you must have Bernachon’s signature Le Président cake: an incredible ganache dessert topped with shaved chocolate. It’s basically chocolate atop chocolate atop chocolate, and it’s sublime.

Vieux Lyon – or the Old City – is a designated Unesco World Heritage site; the quartiers Saint-Jean and Saint-Georges are both full of winding cobblestone streets with great examples of medieval architecture. The Cathedral of Saint-Jean, which dates from the 12th century, features beautiful stained-glass windows and an astronomical clock that is one of the largest in Europe. But then there are plenty of things to do just outside the city as well, not least a visit to the three-Michelin-star Maison Troisgros for lunch. The train takes you through the beautiful Beaujolais countryside and delivers you to the restaurant door in a little over an hour. Another worthwhile lunch excursion is, of course, the train ride to Valence for a delicious lunch at Anne-Sophie Pic’s Maison Pic. And just outside town, an easy taxi ride away, is the Henri Malartre Museum, a vast collection of everything car- and motorcycle-related – from vintage to modern vehicles – housed in a beautiful 12th-century castle.

But besides its natural and architectural endowments, and its culinary status, Lyon is beautiful because it has stayed true to its historical roots. Tradition still matters very much here. Of course, it’s a dynamic city embracing technology and investing in the future: the culture of sport (particularly football), the culture of food, the cultures of art and artisans – these are all celebrated. But the people of Lyon perfected l’art de vivre – the art of living – a long time ago and this is what has kept it a special place.

Arethusa al tavolo

Farm-to-table dining from two fashion insiders in rural Connecticut

It was the owners of Arethusa al tavolo, a dairy farm-to-table restaurant in northwest Connecticut, who first intrigued me. George Malkemus and Anthony Yurgaitis are the president and vice-president respectively of Manolo Blahnik in the US. But after being tempted to try out this rural trattoria in the bucolic town of Bantam by its somewhat unusual management team, it is for chef Dan Magill’s creative, seasonally driven dishes that I will return.

Arethusa al tavolo (third picture) is a warm, cosy space in muted, earthy tones, accented with enormous Majolica plates. Our late lunch, accompanied by a bright and bustling atmosphere, began with a quartet of devilled eggs ($13, second picture) – a new take on the classic recipe, filled with pickled onion, potato, bacon and crab meat. The perfectly paced plates of shrimp and avocado salad ($18, first picture) – embellished with ruby grapefruit, micro-greens and a scrumptious miso and ginger dressing – and yellowtail tuna tartare with tobiko wasabi ($19) that followed were both equally tasty.

The dairy products at Arethusa al tavolo are all sourced from the duo’s 325-acre cattle farm down the road and are a real highlight. (Arethusa is the name of the farm, and “al tavolo” means “to the table” in Italian.) The cheese and charcuterie plates ($17 each) we shared featuredthe farm’s signature Bella Bantam cheese, a slightly sweet Camembert and a slab of tangy Rotondo, alongside creamy duck, pork belly and foie gras pâté and soppressata. And dessert? Of course, the honey-roasted peaches with blackberry compote and luscious ice cream was the perfect sweet ending.

If I needed another reason to head to this beautiful part of New England, other than the scenery and antiques shops, this is it. Next time I’ll go for dinner and the decadent deluxe burger ($18), garnished with speck, blue cheese and locally foraged mushrooms, washed down with a Birch Old Fashioned ($14) – a signature cocktail comprising Litchfield Distilleries bourbon, birch cordial and orange bitters.

Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Westchester County

The vibe of New York can be draining, so my weekends in Westchester are a restorative necessity. This is where I step away, spend time with family and friends and recharge my batteries. Our home is just an hour outside the city, so weekend escapes are very easy.

Saturday is my day to sleep in – a thing I never do during the week. After starting the day with a matcha green-tea latte and seven-grain toast topped with smoked salmon and avocado, I’ll head to the John Jay Homestead farm market in Katonah to stock up on provisions for the meals I like to cook over the weekend. I am always inspired by what is fresh and I’ll buy whatever vegetables, berries, cheeses and country breads look appealing.  

Our days are centred around being outside, so after a full shop I’ll take my daughter Chloe [15] to Echo Farm, where I’ll ride while she has a lesson. Or we’ll go canoeing on Lake Waccabuc [pictured]; it’s very peaceful and the perfect antidote to the city. Back home, I like to walk in the woods, foraging for wild berries and mushrooms to use in various dishes later.

We’ll have a casual lunch at the house – a roast chicken with simple mixed greens, a tomato salad and sautéed corn. The afternoon is then spent visiting Gossett Brothers Nursery, where I like buying plants and flowers for the house and garden, particularly roses and peonies.

Evenings are our time for trying the great – and varied – cuisine the area has to offer. Blue Hill at Stone Barns is always an incredible experience, with visits to the on-site greenhouse making it even more special. Chef Dan Barber’s signature “vegetables on a fence” features the freshest, simplest ingredients – baby carrots, fennel, tiny radishes – and I know I’m eating food straight from the field. If we feel like seafood, Purdy’s Farmer & the Fish is the place to go, while the relaxed 121 in North Salem serves the best goat’s cheese and caramelised-onion pizza.

For a fun night with friends, we’ll head to Truck for creative New Mexican food and margaritas, or to Campagna at the Bedford Post Inn, where chef Michael White of Marea serves amazing branzino and fusilli with pork ragù. The evening often ends with a nightcap – Hudson Valley whiskey, tequila or a good cold beer – enjoyed next to our outdoor firepit.

I’m always first up on Sunday so I’ll walk the dogs and prepare a breakfast of pancakes, eggs, bacon and fruit for my family. I use this quiet time to check emails from my restaurants. Saturday nights are key in my business and I like to know how my chefs are doing. We’ll then visit the Wolf Conservation Center in South Salem, which has 25 endangered red and grey wolves and all sorts of interesting workshops and guided walks – as well as “evening howls”.

Lunch is always a huge spread, with ribs, fish, chicken and vegetables, all cooked on our custom-made stone grill. My wife Marja might make a Korean dish too. Our friends and family – often 12 or more people – like coming over because they’re sure the food will be good and the atmosphere low-key. After that, we’ll do more hiking or canoeing before heading back to the city for an early dinner.

Sunday nights are spent with the whole family, including my two older children – Cedric, the chef at Perry Street, and Louise, the creative force at Chefs Club – and our two grandchildren. By this point, we’re all ready for great sushi, so we’ll go to the sleek EN Japanese Brasserie in West Village or Nobu in Tribeca. My Sundays typically end early – I’m in bed by 9pm – so that I’m rested for the busy week ahead in my kitchens.

Inna Jam’s curious condiments

A site jam-packed with curious preserves, pickles and chutneys

Those with a penchant for curious condiments will rejoice at the discovery of Inna Jam, a California-based e-purveyor of conserves, pickles, chutneys and shrub (a fruit tipple dating from the colonial era), all costing $13.50 each for 10oz. This streamlined site delivers seasonal condiments made from sustainably grown fruit sourced within 150 miles of the company’s kitchen and containing no added herbs or flavourings.

Jars of unexpected Californian crossbreeds include Flavor King Pluot, a native fruit that is a sharp and sweet mix between a plum and an apricot, and Tayberry, a tart raspberry/blackberry, while purebreeds include Obsidian Blackberry, Blenheim Apricot, Damson Plum and Black Mission Fig.

Most popular is a seriously spicy Jalapeño Jam. Served with hors d’oeuvres or employed as a glaze for meat, it uses an entire chilli pepper for added intensity. For those looking for a milder option, try the Not Too Spicy Hungarian Pepper Jam, while Apricot Chutney has a ginger and coriander kick that pairs well with cheeses and charcuterie. Customised sets (a year’s supply of jam costs $150, or there are six jars for $83, four jars for $56 and two jars for $29) make great gifts.

Further foodie delights await at Yumbles, a delectable online farmers’ market, or check out delicious Crown Maple syrups from New York.

Hedley & Bennett handmade aprons

A culinary e-shop that attracts the world’s best chefs

From butchers, bakers and bartenders to gourmets and gluttons, many a foodie has roundly rejoiced upon discovering Hedley & Bennett’s e-store specialising in colourful, high-quality kitchen aprons, chef coats and caps made from American canvas, European linens and Japanese selvedge denim.

The brainchild of former line cook Ellen Bennett, the collection has garnered a high-profile following among chefs including Nobu Matsuhisa, Momofuku’s David Chang and April Bloomfield of The Spotted Pig, as well as Jon Shook, Vinny Dotolo and Ludo Lefebvre of LA’s Trois Mec. But kings of domestic kitchens are catching on fast – becoming fans not only of details such as adjustable straps, lined pockets and graphic prints, but also of the monogramming customisation service too.

The site features over 40 styles: full aprons (from $85, second picture) made of graphite canvas and linen come in colours from rhubarb red with orange ties (first picture) and canary yellow with white ties to navy with pink and parsnip with navy. Shorter-style bistro aprons in reds, whites, blues and beige come in several lengths – from the 27” Commis ($70) to the 14” Tik Tak Mini ($67) – and all have practical bucket pockets. Tailored chef coats (from $120) in lightweight cotton or indigo chambray suit the at-home amateur who loves a theatrical approach. Every detail points to the fact that these garments are designed by a chef who understands the hot, messy workings of a kitchen.

For another e-cache of chic culinary gems, try Quitokeeto, or to craft the apotheosis of kitchen heaven, approach Smallbone of Devizes for a bespoke design kitchen.

BBQ chic in José Ignacio

Beachside dining with sumptuous seafood and sundowners in Uruguay

For citizens of the world planning to swing by Uruguay, I’d urge a detour to the quaint seaside town of José Ignacio, and in particular to stop at the newly opened La Susana restaurant. The owners of nearby boutique boltholes Estancia Vik and Playa Vik have added this casual beachfront spot to their surf-chic mix, and the menu, ambience and attentive staff – including gregarious chef Marcello – are already firing on all cylinders.

La Susana is open from noon (presumably for the odd American like me who shows up early), but this thatched eatery doesn’t get hopping until about 3pm – a civilised lunch hour for this part of the world. The wooden walkway approach to the restaurant – complete with boxes of kitchen herbs grown along the side – ends in a cheerful, light-filled space full of natural wood, white adobe and upbeat animé paintings lining the walls (the owners are avid contemporary art collectors – don’t miss the James Turrell light installation at Playa Vik just steps down the beach).

But it is the outdoors – complete with grill and a shaded bamboo-bar area – that is the place to be on sunny afternoons and starry nights. The clientele is eclectic and on the day of our visit the place was packed with locals, European tourists and families. It is an ideal place for children, who can frolic in the sand while parents sip inventive cocktails (largely made with the owner’s Norwegian Christiania vodka), including the Red Hot Caipi (US$10) – vodka, berries, vermouth rosso, Tabasco and lime – and the Sushi Mary ($12) with its delicious mix of tomato juice, wasabi, soy and Worcestershire sauces. The latter sounded a bit odd, but it was salty and satisfying and worked well with the abundance of grilled fare we ordered.

I’m a fan of simple food prepared in interesting, regional ways and La Susana provides just that kind of experience. We started with a plate of Crudités Club 55 ($21.50) – a bountiful platter of locally grown radishes, cucumbers, peppers and courgettes with garlicky sauces for dipping – and the brótola (a local white fish) ceviche of the day ($14.50). Given the restaurant’s location just steps from the ocean, seafood is the way to go here and freshly grilled silverside fish ($17) did not disappoint.  

Straightforward burgers – of the beef ($14) and veggie ($14.50) varieties – were also being turned out by the boatload, all accompanied by sides of rosemary-dusted French fries ($6) and a Uruguayan favourite – crushed ruby beets ($7.50). Of special note were the “side” salads that could have been mistaken for robust meals. The signature La Susana version, for example, is comprised of quinoa, figs, almonds, corn, cabbage and yoghurt, and while it didn’t initially call my name, I ended up loving its combination of textures and flavours.

Desserts included a chocolate-ice-cream bomb ($10) and plenty of the ultra-sweet dulce de leche– in gelados ($10.50) and mousses ($10) – a South American staple at breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Meals can spin out for hours – what’s better than indulging by the beach? – and many diners linger long into the waning sunset. Who can blame them, for at just a year old, La Susana is seriously hitting its stride.