Joe Gebbia - The Airbnb co-founder on his favourite things

Joe Gebbia loves Space Hippies, sound baths, cereal packets and will go anywhere for Christo

My personal style signifier is a pair of Nike Space Hippies – a modern marvel of sneaker design. They’re made of recycled materials – plastic bottles, T-shirts and post-industrial scraps from the factory – and I like that they’re environmentally low-impact, incredibly comfortable and distinctive. I have them in high-top and low-top versions, in grey and orange. Along with my titanium Ressence watch, they are my everyday staples.

The last thing I bought and loved was a set of Syng triphonic speakers. I love reaching the end of the day, when I can blast out some music. They are spread equidistantly through the room in order to create a sound bath – the sound quality is a revelation.

I’ve recently rediscovered my love of live sports. Since moving to Austin, I’ve become a partner in the San Antonio Spurs, and getting to go to basketball games again – sitting courtside, feeling that energy, watching people convene – has been wonderful.

The best souvenir I’ve brought home is a meditation cushion from a Buddhist monk in Oita, Japan. He’s an Airbnb host and he gave it to me when I stayed in his temple. I got to live the life of a monk on that trip – meditating at 5am, cooking meals in his kitchen, tagging along to the village where he performed rituals in people’s homes. I still use it often. My style icon is Haider Ackermann. His designs look like no one else’s, and his work is a reflection of him – informally formal.

The best gift I’ve given recently was cereal boxes, which I designed for our early investors and each member of our executive team, to commemorate our IPO. Each one had that person’s likeness on it. I made 40 or so boxes, so it was a time-intensive project. It was a homage to our Obama O’s breakfast cereal of 2008, which we sold to keep Airbnb afloat at that time. The last music I downloaded was the album Battle Lines by the Canadian electronic duo Bob Moses. It’s a mix of wistful lyrics, pop beats and synths.

The objects I would never part with are my sketchbooks. I have them custom-made in three sizes and with weighty paper so that the ink doesn’t bleed through the pages. I sketch first concepts – for example, for Neighborhood, a furniture line I did with Bernhardt – and I also draw people, so that I have a written and visual record of meetings.

I have a collection of midcentury modern chairs. Many of the pieces are by Charles and Ray Eames and also by the Dutch designer Gerrit Rietveld, who broke the mould of what furniture was supposed to look like. I have Rietveld’s Red and Blue chair, and also his Zig Zag and Crate chairs. And I have an Eames daybed-like one that they made for the director Billy Wilder, who used it for napping on movie sets.

In my fridge you’ll always find maple syrup and butter for making pancakes at the weekend. I have a wide variety of syrups – all the grades, all the light and dark versions – and like to make pancakes for whoever is staying with us. I also have Hello Pure dog food for my puppy, Belo.

The thing I couldn’t do without is my Opal webcam. It’s beautiful and of the highest quality – they have somehow packaged DSLR-level quality into a camera that fits in your pocket.

An indulgence I would never forgo is travelling to see a Christo and Jeanne-Claude installation anywhere in the world. I was recently in Paris for the Arc de Triomphe installation, and at Lake Iseo for The Floating Piers before that, and in New York to see The Gates in Central Park in 2005. I find it the most profound public art. There is one more left to go – The Mastaba in Abu Dhabi – which will be bigger than the Great Pyramid, and you can bet I will be there.

The carry-on essentials I’m never without include my Porter-Yoshida & Co briefcase, a black nylon model with plenty of compartments. It also holds some important things such as my Manta Sleep eye mask, which has an adjustable Velcro strap so that no light slips in and is as soft as butter. I’m also never without my 16in MacBook Pro – it’s got a big screen and is super-fast – and my Leica M10, so I can bring back some memories.

The last item of clothing I added to my wardrobe was a Dolce & Gabbana three-piece suit in polka-dot silk jacquard that’s killer. I wore it for this year’s Met Gala.

The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Willem de Kooning. I’m reading his biography now and he had an incredible life; he grew up impoverished, made his way to America, helped to define the abstract expressionist art movement and lived the dream. I would like any painting from his Woman series.

My favourite building is the Rothko Chapel in Houston, Texas. It’s an octagon that contains 14 of Mark Rothko’s monumental murals.

My wellbeing gurus are a physician – Peter Attia – who helps me figure out what I should be eating and is focused on longevity. I also love a good myofascial massage where they dig really deep into your muscles and find all of the problem spots and work them out. And I’ve been searching for a new jujitsu trainer.

My favourite website is – sticking close to home – airbnb.org, the non-profit side of our business. We partner with people to house refugees and displaced citizens in times of crisis. Right now, Ukraine is a huge focus and we’ve promised to host 100,000 people. The plug here – for anyone reading this – is if you have an extra room, please sign up. We are focused on rooms in Europe – Poland, Slovakia, Hungary, Germany, Denmark, Sweden – but anyone can help. As far as apps go, I use the Oura app to track my sleep. I average six and a half hours per night, and no matter what I do, I can’t seem to change it.

In another life, I would have been a film director. I am starting to explore filmmaking by producing a documentary about the IOC Refugee Olympic team that participated in last year’s Tokyo games. This all-refugee team comprised 29 athletes, originating from 11 countries, and residing in 13 host nations. Their resilience is inspiring.

My favourite room in my house is my gym. I start my day here and it sets the tone; working out is my form of meditation and I am rarely distracted when I am doing it. It used to be a garage, so I just added a skylight and I open the door wide for natural light. It’s equipped with the basics: a bench, cables, free weights, kettlebells, a leg press and an elliptical machine. My goal is three hours of cardio a week at a target heart rate of 125bpm, plus four days of strength training.

The place that means a lot to me is the Eames Ranch in Petaluma, California. Spread over 27 rolling acres in Sonoma County, it’s surrounded by farmland with sheep and a llama. The original house and barn were designed by architect William Turnbull, so it’s an iconic place – and it’s now the site of a non-profit I helped start called the Eames Institute of Infinite Curiosity. It contains many of the original Charles and Ray Eames sketches, prototypes, films, books and textiles.

The best bit of advice I ever received was via CNN, when I was in high school. I was watching an interview with Warren Buffett on investing and I was expecting a stock pick, but instead he said to “invest in yourself”. As a kid, I’d never previously considered this concept, but it’s an important one.

The trip that I’m looking forward to next is to the village of Mezzojuso, in Sicily. My ancestors came from this small, hillside village in the country and I visited once before, as a surprise holiday for my whole family. I worked with the mayor and council members to find the old ledgers and birth certificates and we traced our family back to the 1700s. I organised a party for the village, and we were granted honorary citizenship – it was an exceptional moment, and my dad was in tears, being in the place where his grandfather had emigrated from in 1900.

The best book I’ve read in the past year is The Truth: An Uncomfortable Book About Relationships by Neil Strauss. It’s a book of relationship advice and it’s insightful, funny and chock-full of observations on commitment, love and family. We did a talk together at South By Southwest and he recommended it to me. It’s a truly hilarious book.

The podcast I’m listening to is Hidden Brain by NPR. It’s all about psychology and helping us to understand why we do what we do. My favourite episode is one about the placebo effect; it’s fascinating on the power of the mind.

And the best gift I’ve received is a speech that was given by my co-founder and friend, Brian Chesky, for my 40th birthday. Somehow, he managed to capture 22 years of our friendship in a funny, heartfelt, deeply touching toast – in front of 180 people, no less – that I’ll never forget. The speech now hangs framed on the wall of my office. Brian is as talented a writer as he is a businessman.

The Beach Cures Everything at This Rhode Island Inn

Weekapaug Inn
Weekapaug, Rhode Island
Understated New England elegance, $$$

I first visited the Weekapaug Inn over 30 years ago for a family reunion, and I'm pleased to report that not much — or at least none of the great parts — has changed in the slightest. Founded in 1899 in traditional Cape Cod style, the quaint inn was refurbished between 2007 and 2012, and the results are a perfect mix of low-key chic and authentic coastal charm, which have earned the inn accolades like “Best Hotels in the World” (Travel + Leisure) and “Most Charming Hotels” (Reader's Digest).

Set on the Atlantic Coast overlooking a serene salt pond and a barrier beach beyond, the Inn is an ideal escape for Covid-centric times. The property is surrounded by water, natural rock formations, and an expansive lawn that allows for complete social distancing, and the management seems to have thought of every possible safety protocol. Staff wear tasteful masks in keeping with the Inn's New England aesthetic, everything is religiously wiped down (even by the valet!), and space and fresh air are in ample supply. Read more about their safety protocols here. Guests don't need to fret about every interaction here, and can, instead, can focus on eco-explorations, long beach walks, or simply tucking into a good book from the comfort of an Adirondack chair.

Book It

Rates start at $365. Click here for reservations. Or contact the Fathom Concierge and we can book your trip for you.

At a Glance

The Vibe: Cape Cod kicked up ten notches. The cedar-shingled hotel — as well as its understated pool and fitness facility — meld seamlessly into the rugged coastal surroundings

Standout Details: The sweeping views of Quonochontaug Pond peppered with Optimist sailboats. Rides on the Quonnie Queen, the inn's electric Elco boat that can be arranged at the quaint water sports shack. Guided walks with the Inn's naturalist. Stargazing tours, fishing excursions, and swimming in the heated saline pool (a rarity in this part of the world) are all relaxing highlights.

This Place Is Perfect For: Outdoorsy couples and environmentalists of all ages who want to kayak, cycle, and swim in the Atlantic surf before savoring locally sourced, world-class cuisine. It's also perfect for families whose kids can sail, make jewelry, play shuffleboard, and devour s'mores around a fire pit come nightfall.

The living room of the Osprey Suite.

Rooms: The hotel has 31 guest rooms, including four two-bedroom Signature Suites with sweeping views of the Weekapaug Yacht Club's harbor and the Atlantic Ocean across to Block Island. Pond and cove view rooms are spacious and quietly elegant. with Matouk linens in neutral shades and a light, nautical design theme throughout. Extras include individually packaged snacks like malted milk balls and Goldfish crackers — in other words, the things you crave after a day in the sun and salt — as well heated floors and towel racks. SmartTouch iPads, and TVs are concessions 21st-century living, and one of the few things that has changed since the renovation.

On Site: The Inn is a wholly contained little world. The saline pool and fitness center are generally empty, as guests are busy exploring the outdoors. Small fitness classes and yoga at dawn are available, as are multiple dining venues (see below for more details).

The nature-inclined (isn't that everyone lately?) should get to know Mark Bullinger, the hotel's resident Naturalist and Director of Recreation, who grew up sailing, clamming, and fishing around here, as is clear from his extensive knowledge of the area, which will illuminate beach walks and expeditions on bike or boat, as well as bird-watching and stargazing sessions. Captain Mark (he has a U.S. Coast Guard captain's license) also oversees the boating center and waterfront activities: kayaking, paddleboarding, and sailing. If you're sticking to land and don't want to pack gear to go hiking around, the hotel has a closet full of Hunter outdoor gear for guest use.

The Restaurant.

The Brasserie.

The Pondhouse.

The Pondhouse.

Food + Drink: Like its sister hotel down the road, Ocean House, Weekapaug Inn is a Relais & Châteaux hotel, which means the culinary program is a big reason why you're here. The Restaurant, the hotel's premiere dining venue, serves a modern take on New England coastal cuisine, with an emphasis on local ingredients: Cast Iron Baked Eggs for breakfast; New England Clam Chowder, Fish Burger, and Hot Lobster Roll for lunch. The dinner menu is divided by source: From the Pantry, From the Mill, From the Sea, From the Pasture, and From the Coop. Sunday is Family Pasta Night at The Restaurant. The culinary highlights are many, but grilled local peaches with housemade burrata, a local black bass aqua pazza, and a lobster salad that's enhanced by a minted pea emulsion and preserved Meyer lemon are not to be missed.

The Brasserie, which opened in February 2019, serves French and European dishes in a casual setting: steak tartare, duck confit, ratatouille. The Garden Room is the most relaxed, lounge-like option for drinks and the kinds of bar snacks that could easily make a stick-to-the-ribs comfort meal — fries, a Northeast Family Farms burger, and an artisanal cheese plate that celebrates local purveyors.

Weekapaug has two seasonal options, one casual and one fancy. The beachy Bathhouse serves delicious pizzas and burgers. This is where guests can permanently park it by the water's edge.The Pondhouse is a seasonal, open-air private brunch and dinner experience for up to four guests overlooking Quonochontaug Pond. The three-course menu includes ingredients from the pond (Quonnie Rock oysters, Narragansett lobster), the pasture (local Berkshire pork), and the fields (wild mushrooms, local goat cheese). Each course comes paired with a Champagne from Louis Roederer, an independent, family-run Champagne houses founded in 1776. A portion of proceeds is donated to the Ocean House Fund for Charitable Giving.

What to Do Nearby

Guests who want to explore the area should take one of the hotel's complimentary Volvos and head 15 minutes down the coast to bucolic town of Watch Hill. (The non-highway route down Atlantic Avenue offers a more scenic drive, offering local color and a side of fried Stonington sea scallops.) Once there, all the amenities and activities at Ocean House — including the amazing Oh! Spa for massages and games of squash, a legit croquet lawn, multiple restaurants overlooking the dramatic Atlantic surf, and Euro-inspired beach cabanas — are on offer.

The town of Watch Hill is full of New England charm. From the old-world Flying Horse Carousel to the homemade black raspberry ice cream at St. Clair Annex on bustling Bay Street, a stroll here feels like summer as it should be. T-shirt shops and more elevated boutiques such as KLW Design and JHuhn Custom Men's Clothing offer housewares and a range of coastal-themed gifts and looks.

Heading north from Weekapaug Inn, Dave's Coffee draws the caffeine faithful, while the Matunuck Oyster Bar in South Kingstown has the best littlenecks and cherry stone clams, as well as oysters from nearby Potter Pond. This spot is so popular that you will wait — just plan to settle in with a Narragansett lager and do some fantastic people watching on their expansive deck. If you're in need of retail therapy, head to Galapagos Boutique for its funky mix of shoes, accessories, and carefully edited clothing. Though really, you should just get back to the beach and savor every moment at the Inn.

For more fun in Rhode Island, visit Ocean House, the grand dame hotel on the beach, then eat and drink your way down the Atlantic at the state's best eateries.

Myriam Badault’s perfect weekend in Paris

The creative force behind Diptyque shops for copper cookware, exotic spices and vivid scented geraniums at the city’s independent stores

“Saturday mornings begin at 8am with the same Pilates class I’ve been doing for 30 years. I go to Keana studio, close to Place Vendôme, because I love the instructors and it offers a disciplined start to my day. I live in the 15th arrondissement, near Roland Garros and the Bois de Boulogne, so I’ll usually return home before running my errands for the day. I love this part of Paris because the streets are so wide and calm, and there’s a beautiful garden at every turn. 

I like to cook at home at the weekend, so I stock up on fresh produce, fish and cheeses early on Saturday. My first stop is often Epices Roellinger, a spice specialist whose owner is a noted chef in Brittany. You can find spices from all over the world here, including nine kinds of vanilla that work for everything from fish dishes to desserts. Book stores are also a priority. The Palais de Tokyo has a wonderful art, design and fashion collection, while Librairie Delamain has a good selection of everything from novels to comic books. They’ll pick books especially for me – for example, tailored to my travels – so it feels like a unique shopping experience these days. Ofr, in the old Marais, is another gem: they’re specialists in books about art and photography.

I’ll shop for clothes and accessories too, and White Bird – a little boutique with jewellery from all over the world – is always one of my first stops. I had an exquisite golden nugget pendant made here for Christmas, and I love how the owner mixes all kinds of shapes and styles. And I’ll often stop at E Dehillerin, an Aladdin’s cave of cooking implements: the selection of copper pots and pans alone is incredible. Natur’Elle is another favourite, with a gallery-meets-flower-shop feel. I buy all kinds of interesting plant species here: I love the crazy‑coloured scented geraniums.

Lunches at the weekend tend to be quick and light, and might be followed by a trip to Hôtel Molitor for a swim. This wonderful art deco building used to be the place for techno parties, but a few years ago it was refurbished into a hotel-restaurant destination, complete with an enormous pool. 

For a fun Saturday dinner out with my kids I like Mamie, a warm family-style restaurant that feels like your grandmother’s house. The desserts are very special – and visually stunning, since they are made by the famous pastry chef Cédric Grolet. My favourites are his choux pastries filled with vanilla cream. If we’re going to the opera or the ballet we’ll go to Savy, a bistro just off Avenue Montaigne, for a late supper after the performance. The food here is very traditional – beef fillet and the best French fries in the world – but it always feels like a special treat.

Sunday mornings start with a very French breakfast of coffee and a croissant with jam –and the papers. We aren’t on the healthiest routine, but this time spent with my boys and Le Monde and Madame Figaro is really enjoyable. If I haven’t been swimming on Saturday then I’ll head to Molitor on Sunday morning, followed by the Point du Jour market in the 16th for more dinner ingredients. Sundays are also a good day for Le Bon Marché, where I go for clothes before visiting my hair colourist at Studio Marisol. I don’t have time during the week, and they do the best highlights. 

Afterward I might walk to the Musée des Arts Décoratifs where I find the mix of contemporary design with old wallpapers and decorative objects really inspiring. Or I’ll take in whichever retrospective happens to be on at the Grand Palais, followed by a quick stop at Isabel Marant or at Tsé & Tsé for beautiful housewares, then Regis, where I’ll pick up a dessert of chocolate cake and orangette for our family dinner.

It’s very rare for us to go out on a Sunday night as I love to cook at home. I’ll serve my signature roast chicken with couscous or an Italian feast  – it all depends on what I’ve found at the markets throughout the weekend. I’m a very curious person in general and so the weekends fill me with inspiration; the food, the magazines, the cafés and the shops are where my ideas come from. I travel quite a lot for my work – to Korea, Morocco, Japan – and while I love it, I really cherish these quiet weekends at home.”

Diptyque’s fragrance tribute to Paris, Eau Capitale (£120 for 70ml EDP), launches this month (diptyqueparis.com).

Tara Bernerd’s perfect weekend in Gstaad

“Getting up to the mountains is heaven, and Gstaad is as magical in the spring as it is in the winter, when the snow brings a blanket of glittering quiet.

Saturday mornings begin with a walk to the village where I get the newspapers before heading on to Charly’s coffee shop. It’s been there for years and the pastries are simply amazing, but I try to resist and go for a coffee and a “glow juice”, made by my friend Dianne.

I do a lot of walking and hiking. My husband Tommy and I like the long walk to Lauenen, where you follow a river trail through a fairytale forest. The views are never lost on me. Having worked up an appetite, we’ll head to the authentic, chalet-style Hotel Wildhorn which is renowned for its decadent rösti, the traditional Swiss potato dish that is prepared every imaginable way here. I prefer the version with ham and egg, but they’re all delicious.

Saturday afternoon means a massage at The Alpina hotel, where the spa is excellent. I am inspired by its understated design ethos in my own work – it makes use of rich natural materials such as Ringgenberg limestone and black onyx – and Antonis is a gifted therapist. He uses a mixture of reiki and rejuvenating therapeutic massage. From there I might pop in to see Kevin at the Palace, where the buzzy lobby lounge is perfection – for a blowdry before a night out with friends. If time allows, I’ll stop by Maison Lorenz Bach, a well-edited clothing store with everything from traditional Tyrol jackets to fantastic studded belts. And Marti Interiors is a tempting source of chalet accessories, such as horn candlesticks and felt baskets that are used as log holders.

One of the best spots on a Saturday night is at the Olden Hotel where Massimo, the maître d’, is fantastic and the bar has a warm, convivial feel. The restaurant here is just as seductive, so we’ll stay and have my favourite spaghettini sciué sciué, a spicy tomato pasta. 

On Sunday morning, I’ll get up early to meet Alex Jenzer, a dear friend and hiking guru who knows the surrounding mountains like no one else. The sheer number of trails, as well as the epic scenery, are mindblowing. For some culture, we’ll hike to one of the area’s art installations such as Doug Aitken’s glass house – an incredible structure made of mirrors. After all of this activity, Sunday lunch is a must, and so I’ll meet my sister and brother-in-law at the Sonnenhof. We’ll sit on the terrace whatever the weather, as the views are stunning. I rarely eat meat, but here they serve the steak, still sizzling, on a hot, black stone and it’s exceptionally good.

We’ll walk back through Saanen, where there are some super antiques stores that range from Swiss traditional to midcentury modern. Tommy has quite a sweet tooth so we’ll pop into Délice, a cake shop run by the talented Heidi Sigrist-Wehren. She made our wedding cake and is considered a true pâtisserie queen.

From there we’ll walk back along the river – usually with our dog, Rocky – before returning home to read the papers by an open fire. We’ll spend Sunday nights at Seize, a very cool restaurant serving excellent mussels and light fresh soups. As the weekend draws to a close, the ski gear and hiking boots are returned to their places, my suits are packed, and I feel ready to face the busy week ahead.”

Madeleine Grynsztejn’s perfect weekend in Chicago

The Pritzker director of Chicago’s Museum of Contemporary Art (MCA) dives into independent bookshops, exhibitions and a colourful food scene

“After a long week spent travelling to art fairs and exhibitions, there is something quite zen about watching a gorilla relaxing. One of my favourite things to do on Saturday morning is to walk around our neighbourhood, taking an amble through Lincoln Park to the farmers’ market, then on to the Lincoln Park Zoo, where you could explore from sun-up to sundown: it’s possibly my favourite place in the city – for people-watching as well as the amazing variety of animals. In the afternoon, I catch up on Chicago’s vibrant art scene. I am on the road so much that weekends allow me to fully enjoy the art and architecture that make this city so uniquely urban and urbane. We have amazing cultural spaces, including Theaster Gates’s Stony Island Arts Bank, as well as The Arts Club, the DePaul Art Museum, the Graham Foundation and Wrightwood 659. I’m also excited about getting to know performance artist and sculptor Nick Cave’s new multidisciplinary space, Facility.

My husband Tom Shapiro and I also love the city’s theatres – from the legendary Steppenwolf to tiny storefronts like Chopin Theatre, where we just saw It is Magic by Mickle Maher, a hilarious mash-up of Macbeth and The Three Little Pigs. We’re smitten with the acrobatic productions by the small-but-mighty Lookingglass theatre – and the fact that we can walk over to the MCA’s Marisol restaurant for an aperitif after a show. The restaurant is a point of pride for me, as the Chris Ofili artwork was commissioned specifically for the space – and the sunflower hummus with homemade crackers is outstanding.

If we are further west, we might go for a late snack of oysters and champagne at The Publican in the Fulton Market area. For special occasions, we’re huge fans of the American-Danish cuisine at Elske – especially their cured hamachi with crispy potatoes and dill pickles, or smoked fjord trout. It’s a place where the atmosphere matches the cuisine: it’s spare, relaxed and a perfect reflection of Chicago. We also love Mi Tocaya Antojería in Logan Square, which is our version of Brooklyn, for the best Mexican food in town. Sunday starts with brunch at Lula Café, where Jason Hammel makes things like rhubarb wholewheat French toast and granola strewn with edible flowers. City Lit Books is next door, which is a real bonus. I’m crazy for books and love supporting independent stores such as Women and Children First and Myopic Books. Tom and I usually spend the afternoon preparing a meal for friends. Chicago is chock-a-block with amazing people, and we tend to mix in guests who are in town for events at the MCA. Recently we introduced the playwright and actor Anna Deavere Smith to the choreographer and Whitney Biennial sensation Brendan Fernandes and the fashion designer Duro Olowu. We had a wonderful time over rosé, homemade gazpacho and pasta, and a seasonal berry pie from the Hoosier Mama bakery, a Chicago institution. I love expressing my thanks to friends through a delicious meal and an evening of lively discussion.

Afterwards, we might binge on Stranger Things or The Marvellous Mrs Maisel before I pack my bags for the week ahead.” The Arts Club, 201 E Ontario St (artsclubchicago.org). Chopin Theatre, 1543 W Division St (chopintheatre.com). City Lit Books, 2523 N Kedzie Blvd (citylitbooks.com). DePaul Art Museum, 935 W Fullerton (resources.depaul.edu/artmuseum). Elske, 1350 W Randolph St (elskerestaurant.com). Facility, 3616 N Milwaukee Ave (facilitychicago.org). The Graham Foundation, 4 W Burton Pl (grahamfoundation.org). Hoosier Mama Pie Company, 1618 W Chicago Ave (hoosiermamapie.com). Lincoln Park Zoo, 2001 N Clark St (lpzoo.org). Lookingglass, lookingglasstheatre.org. Lula Cafe, 2537 N Kedzie Blvd (lulacafe.com). Marisol, 205 E Pearson St (marisolchicago.com). MCA, 220 E Chicago Ave (mcachicago.org). Mi Tocaya Antojería, 2800 W Logan Blvd (mitocaya.com). Myopic Books, 1564 N Milwaukee Ave (myopicbookstore.com). The Publican, 837 W Fulton Market (thepublicanrestaurant.com). Stony Island Arts Bank, 6760 S Stony Island Ave (rebuild-foundation.org). -Steppenwolf Theatre Company, 1650 N Halsted St (steppenwolf.org). Women and Children First, 5233 N Clark St (womenandchildrenfirst.com). Wrightwood 659, 659 W Wrightwood Ave (wrightwood659.org).

How to spend it in . . . Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s guide to St Barths

The French-American chef offers his guide to the Caribbean island

“I’ve been coming to St Barths for 32 years and consider the island to be a home away from home. There’s a lot to love about it, not least that it’s three-and-a-half hours from my home in New York, which means that I get to visit three or four times a year. But also the diversity it holds – there are so many beaches, walks in the mountains and (importantly, for me) world-class restaurants to choose from. And no highways, so the pace of life is slower. You really can be barefoot 24/7. It is paradise.

Sailing with Cheval Blanc

I first came with my business partner, Phil Suarez, who owns a home here, and I now visit every year at Christmas with my family – but any time between Thanksgiving and the end of May is good. Hurricane Irma really laid waste to much of the island in 2017, and it’s a real testament to the strength of the community that they were able to rebuild so quickly; so much so that this year, everything – hotels, restaurants, shops, infrastructure – is 90 to 95 per cent back to normal.

Of course, getting to St Barths is half the fun. Or terror, depending on your stomach for flying – the Tradewind Aviation flights from St Maarten and San Juan come in over a steep hill and it’s basically the scariest landing in the world, on one of the shortest runways. I have twice been on a plane that ended up with its nose in the sand. Luckily, the instruments are more precise these days and everything runs smoothly. And you know immediately that you’re somewhere good because the views of the turquoise Caribbean are incredible. 

One of the rooms at boutique hotel Villa Marie

One of the best things the island has going for it is its hotels. There are all kinds of places, each with a unique feel, and fantastically, you won’t find any big‑brand names. And because there is such a limited number of rooms and homes available, it doesn’t feel rammed, even during peak holiday seasons. The restaurants do get more crowded then, but that’s another story…

The cuisine at Le Tamarin

Cheval Blanc St-Barth Isle de France, right on Flamands Beach, reopened last year with new rooms and suites by Jacques Grange, much to everyone’s excitement. Le Guanahani, between Marigot Bay and Grand Cul de Sac, will reopen next year and is a classic – 67 rooms and suites spread across these charming little cottages. Eden Rock, on the highest point overlooking Baie de St-Jean – you see it when you fly in – is probably the island’s oldest hotel and its white-sand coral beaches are some of the best. It’s reopening next month, fully recovered from Irma. One of the smallest and most charming hotels is Baie des Anges, overlooking Flamands Bay. There are just a handful of rooms here, but the views of the crystal-clear sea are incredible. It’s discreet and the restaurant, La Langouste, is excellent as well – very local and full of creole influences – and while the hotel is modest compared to some of the others, it’s a perfect quiet hideaway. I also like Villa Marie, up in the hills of Colombier. It’s more boho chic and you have beautiful views of the bay.

A private rental villa through WIMCO

I’m a big water guy, which is part of why I love St Barths so much: the beaches are incredible. There are so many good ones, but I like to send people to Colombier, as well as Grande Saline and Gouverneur, because they’re good for both swimming and snorkelling. Whichever you choose, you should bring a picnic of delicious sandwiches and prepared salads from Maya’s To Go. The last swim of the day, the place where we watch the sunset, is Shell Beach – ideally with cocktails in hand and Greek mezes on the table at Shellona, which is right on the water there. Baie de St-Jean is the best place for kids to swim, as there is no surf and the water is the purest blue. On the Atlantic side of the island is the Washing Machine, which is basically, as its name implies, rough, so not great for swimming – but there are natural pools that are nice for a dip; you can sit and watch the pelicans swoop down for fish. And the hike to get there is well worth it.

A leather and gold bracelet from Trésors de St Barth

So within hours of waking on St Barths you will have worked up an appetite in the sun or surfing or hiking, which is good because there are any number of places to eat a wonderful late breakfast or lunch. While I have a restaurant here – the Sand Bar at Eden Rock – I love many others. My long-time favourite is Maya’s, just outside historic Gustavia Harbour. Maya Gurley, the owner and my good friend, is one of the most creative chefs anywhere. Her shrimp salad with green papaya and tamarind-spiced pork is excellent. 

Dinner at La Case

They get really incredible food here now – things like Bresse chicken and French cheeses; the quality of imported ingredients available is outstanding. But all the tropical fruits – mangoes, papayas – come via Guadeloupe and Martinique so they are really fresh and flavourful. The perfect morning starts with a freshly baked baguette from La Boulangerie Choisy in L’Orient. For casual lunches I like L’Isola for Italian dishes using local fish, and also L’Isoletta for Roman-style pizzas. And Eddy’s Ghetto in Gustavia for the goat curry and fried catfish is a must. On the way to Grande Saline you’ll find Le Tamarin, which is one of the best places for dinner; it’s built around a massive old tamarind tree – it has a beautiful outdoor atmosphere and fantastic mahi-mahi and marinated local tiradito.

A cocktail at the Cheval Blanc White Bar

St Barths is famous for its nightlife, although after a day spent on or in the water, I tend to be in bed by 10pm. There are places that I like for a night out, however. Le Ti St-Barth in Pointe Milou is one of the best. Its owner, Carole, has been an island presence for many years and late-night table dancing is a regular occurence. Baz Bar is the place for impromptu music – Jimmy Buffett has been known to drop in and do a session – and the sushi is very good too. 

Lots of people who come here stay in villas – WIMCO and Sibarth are both outfits that offer completely organised and well-stocked houses. Which makes cooking at home a pleasure because the quality of food here is so good. There is top fresh lobster, and fino, a local, pink fatty fish that’s perfect for tartare. You’ll find a great butcher called Boucherie Ché Yo’ in St Jean, just behind the airport, and Le Ti-Marché in L’Orient is the place for passion fruit, avocados and rum from Guadeloupe. There’s an abundance of liquor stores on the island, because there is no tax on alcohol. At Marché U, which is one of the biggest supermarkets, there’s a sommelier and a seriously impressive wine selection – they’ve been known to stock Pétrus.

The shopping here in general is excellent, with some one-offs you’ll not find elsewhere. The leather and pearl bracelets by Mignot and Trésors de St Barth make good gifts. I’m not a smoker, but if you’re into cigars you’ll find them from Cuba – and all over the world, really – at Casa del Habano. And Loulou’s Marine on Gustavia Harbour is a kind of brass-tacks, practical place, full of marine-canvas tote bags and supplies – and some nice Breton shirts. 

All of this is wonderful, of course, but I hope that the island stays small. It will never be like the 1970s again, but equally, there will never be a big golf course or a hotel with hundreds of rooms. The island is looking very green again after Irma, finally. And everyone makes you feel so welcome. So it’s still a petite paradise.”

A long weekend in Sardinia with Angela Missoni

“I’ve been coming with my family to Sardinia for more than 30 years and what I love most is that the island hasn’t changed that much. The quality and colour of the sea, the dramatic landscape, the diving, the variety of beaches both sandy and rocky are of a Caribbean level and beauty. Each region is infused with tradition; it might be one of the last places in Italy where men and women still wear costumes for weddings and special holidays. The richness and detail in the textiles, as well as in the local filigree jewellery, literally changes every 10km. It can make you feel like you’re travelling back in time. 

Anchoring off Sardinia’s Costa Smeralda

The food changes from region to region as well. The Costa Smeralda – the Emerald Coast on the northeastern part of the island – is largely known for its creamy goat’s and sheep’s milk cheeses, as well as the pork that comes from the surrounding mountains. No one used to live on this coast before the second world war because it was malaria-infested – people tended their herds up in the hills and looked down on the beautiful white-sand beaches and lagoons below. Luckily, the disease is gone and the area has been well preserved, but classic pasta dishes like orecchiette with pork ragù and ravioli stuffed with potatoes and cheese remain island favourites. On the west side of Sardinia, in Cabras, there is a large salt lake, and this is where the famous bottarga – fish roe – comes from. The bottarga di muggine is considered the most delicate, and it’s in many pasta dishes all over the island.

In the northwestern part of the island, in Alghero, you’ll find fishermen who specialise in lobster and tuna. There was a great Spanish influence in this part of Sardinia and surrounding islands such as San Pietro are full of descendants from this part of Europe, as well as from Genoa and Africa. Many of the fishermen still use an old Genoese dialect, and the food is a wonderful mix of all of these cultures.

Octopus at Ristorante La Tavernetta

The area where I live, just south of Olbia, is all about beautiful beaches and nothing else. In the summer there are some tourists, but if you go in the winter, you won’t even be able to buy a coffee or a newspaper – and that’s the beauty of it. A lot of places here were built in the 1960s and ’70s, including the Due Lune hotel. It has four stars, a very high‑end clientele and incredible views of the blue‑green sea and the nine-hole golf course in front. People appreciate the serenity here and the fact that it doesn’t have the sparkling lights of Costa Smeralda. Sardinia’s finest hotels are well‑known – Cala di Volpe, for example, is five-star and fantastic – but for a really special place to stay look to Borgo Lianti, a small rental property in the hills near Porto Rafael, a lovely, authentic village with views out to the Maddalena archipelago. There is also excellent seafood close by at Il Kalamaro in Palau. My number one spot to eat near home is Ristorante da Pasqualina, which serves the best pasta with fresh sea urchin. It’s in a basic, rustic house, so you’d never notice it, but all the food is outstanding. For a more sophisticated setting, I love Il Portolano in Porto San Paolo, where you sit outside and watch the sun set, and the speciality is an amazing crusted tuna. 

Archaeological ruins of the 3,000-year-old Phoenician city of Tharros

Ristorante La Tavernetta is another great fish restaurant with a little bar that serves a delicious aperitivo and has fantastic views of the island of Tavolara. This is all national park area, so the scenery is stunning. I’m not particular about drinks, but I will enjoy a Campari Spritz here; it matches the colour of the sunset for one thing. On the island of Tavolara there is a lovely spot for lunch called Ristorante da Tonino Re di Tavolara that’s easily reached by tender or its own water taxi. There you eat simple but perfect spaghetti with clams and mussels and have views of the boats. 

The Missonis in Sardinia – the family has taken holidays on the island for the past 30 years

One of my favourite places to eat, though, is Cafè du Port – not least because it’s close to one of my favourite shops, Sigfrido. It is actually two clothing shops – one for men and one for women and children – and we are friends with the couple who own it. Three generations of Missonis buy their clothes here, and even the fourth generation is now wearing its handmade cotton dresses. Foresta G is another wonderful shop that’s owned by a mother and her artist daughter; they create their own prints for summery kaftans. Yashu e Prem is owned by a couple who divide their time between Sardinia and Goa; they produce unique and very beautiful garments in an array of solid shades and wild patterns.

Colourful clothing from Yashu e Prem boutique, San Pantaleo

The best way to see the island, which is quite vast, is by car, as there are only a few roads and there is virtually no traffic, even in August. One village that is worth a detour is San Pantaleo, particularly on Thursdays when there is a market. I tell friends to come here to watch real Sardinian life; have dinner at Ristorante Giagoni in Piazza – a special spot set in a traditional Galluran-stone house on the Piazza della Chiesa, facing the perfect little church; and then stay at Petra Segreta Resort & Spa for the night.

The Balinese spa at Petra Segreta Resort & Spa

September is the best month to be here because the weather is perfect. It’s also the month for special celebrations called Cortes Apertas – or “open courtyards” – in which local people open up their homes to offer regional wines, cheeses and crafts. Everyone dresses in costume and there are festive parades, and while it’s considered more special in certain parts, it is a Sardinia-wide holiday. Even in areas that are typically more insular, such as the high interior, Sardinians are so proud of their heritage that they will invite you in.

Angela Missoni with her daughters, Margherita and Teresa, in Sardinia, 1990

The island has a rich history of migration, as a result of which there is an eclectic mix of archaeological sites; among them are the 3,000-year-old ruins of the Phoenician village of Tharros on the island’s west coast. There is also the incredible National Archaeological Museum in Cagliari, with its collections of pre-history relics, and the Museum of Costume in the inland town of Nuoro. It’s always a hit, as it highlights the island’s unique and very beautiful folkloric clothing. 

A melamine plate from Foresta G

But it’s the natural beauty that sets Sardinia apart. When friends are here on boat, I always send them to the area around La Maddalena and other nearby islands – Isola Tavolara and Isola Molara. For snorkelling and diving, La Tavolara is the best because of its exceptionally clear waters. It also has numerous hiking trails – I’m not one for early-morning guided walks, but many of the Missoni adventurers are. Piscinas in the southwest, with its white sand dunes, is another place not to be missed – it’s wild and the sea can be rough, but it’s very special. The hotel Le Dune Piscinas has been around for years; it’s right on the beach, very simple and secluded, and the quality of the spaces, rooms and beach are unmatched on this side of the island.

It’s amusing – if you are from another part of Italy, Sardinians often don’t ask if you’re from Milan or Rome or Florence; instead, they say, “Have you come from the Continent?” Because for them, there is the island and then the rest of the world. There are unique traditions here, and a unique sense of pride. I hope that’s true of the island for a long time to come.”

Touching Down in Cape Town

The question isn't "what should we do?" but "how can we fit it all in?" Foodies, families, party animals — there's something for literally everyone. Contributing editor Christina Ohly breaks down your many, many options.

CAPE TOWN, South Africa – Picture the perfect mix of Los Angeles, San Franciso, and Napa Valley — with a little Bilbao thrown in for good cultural measure — and you've got Cape Town and the Winelands. It's pretty much the perfect destination for a foodie (copious amounts of fresh fish and global cuisine) who also loves nice weather, nature, and great design. The town is still abuzz after its starring role in the 2010 World Cup, and there is so much to learn about, from wildlife (playful penguins at Boulders Beach) to history (tours of the townships, where your eyes will be opened to the way millions of South Africans live in the face of incredible adversity).

Cape Town is a city with style and edge. Partiers will love the Ibiza-like vibe at al fresco beach clubs and restaurants, where the Veuve flows freely and an entire cosmopolitan world whizzes by. At the same time, the trip proved ideal for my children (ages nine and ten), who loved the hiking, cheetah-petting, and the ever-popular hotel swimming pool. The holiday was meaningful (though not in a museum-filled sort of way) and completely relaxing at the same time.

A cable car climbing Table Mountain. Photo: flowcomm / Flickr

WHAT TO DO

As I said, your biggest challenge will be paring down the itinerary. Outdoor enthusiasts go for big surf and challenging hikes, while aesthetes hit the design-centric shops in Cape Quarter. History and wildlife are everywhere. The best part is that you can sample a little of everything, making for days that are always varied.

LOOK
Table Mountain is a must for anyone not prone to vertigo. A seriously steep cable car whisks large groups to the top of a spectacular rock formation which has incredible views of the ocean, football stadiums, and flowering plants.

HIKE
Lion's Head also has spectacular vistas — onto Table Bay, the Atlantic Ocean, and Robben Island in the distance. This is a manageable three-hour hike (with stops), though not ideal for small children due to several steep pitches.

Robben Island Museum. Photo: wirelizard / Flickr

LEARN
Robben Island Museum, the former prison that once held Nelson Mandela, bills itself as a "poignant reminder to the newly democratic South Africa and the price paid to freedom." You'll learn about the Cape's complicated political history and the anti-apartheid activists who were jailed here. How poignant is it? Many tour guides are former prisoners. The island can be accessed by ferry from the Victoria & Albert Waterfront.

LEARN SOME MORE
A tour of a township is one of the few absolute must-dos in Cape Town. These are not designed to be depressing, begging-bowl routes or guilt trips. One of the best private operators, Uthando Tours, works with children's music and dance groups, women's gardening collectives, and prisoner rehabilitation projects that are making life better for all. Truly inspiring.

An African penguin at Boulders Bay Beach. Photo: jorge-11 / Flickr

GET WITH NATURE
Boulders Bay Beach is worth the quick trip from the center of town for the endearing African penguins that frolic freely on pristine beaches. In warmer months, you can swim. Add a stop in quaint Simon's Town for ice cream and local beadwork shops.

SURF
At Surf Shack in nearby Muizenberg, the waves break (relatively) gently, making it a perfect spot to take up the sport. Just beware the ominous shark warning flags that are frequently posted along these coastlines. Shark spotters — often located in central lookout points — add a whole level of excitement to local water sports.

Photo: Courtesy of Babylonstoren

EAT, DRINK, AND BE MERRY
And do so amid mountain ranges, sprawling vineyards, and beautiful Cape Dutch-style homesteads. Stellenbosch, in the heart of wine country, is worth a detour. Don't miss lunch at the Delaire Graff Restaurant. Franschhoek is considered the gourmet capital of South Africa. French Huguenot style abounds, not to mention farm-to-table eating at every turn in this part of the world. Another regional best bet is Babylonstoren, an eight acre garden/stylish inn that is a fresh food paradise. (Read more about this incredible place in another Fathom postcard.) 

Photo: Courtesy of Nap Living

SHOP

Cape Town is an epicenter of great design, artisinal craftwork, and homemade foods of all kinds. The Bo Kaap and Cape Quarter areas are bursting with boutiques that cater to an aesthetically-minded crowd. Nap Living is a Zen sanctuary that sells homewares like bath salts to delectable fudge. Find African-made clothing at Merchants on Long. Stock up on baskets, beadwork, and ceramics at African Nova and Monkey Biz. Head to the hip Woodstock area for an exquisite selection of art, antique, and decorative objects at O.live (8 Kloof St; +27-21-426-5773).

Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden. Photo: dkeats / Flickr

WITH THE KIDS

While virtually everything is casual and kid-friendly in Cape Town, there are a few spots that are not to be missed, especially when the family is in tow.

HANDS-ON FUN
Children of all ages will go crazy for the Cheetah and Raptor Centre at Spier, where they can learn about these magnificent cats and even pet the more docile ones. At The Eagle Encounters, a bird of prey rehabilitation, education, and conservation program, children can feel raptors alight on their arms (best for kids older than seven) and watch dancing barn owls sway to local tunes. Bonus: Spier is a world-class wine with a casual restaurant, Eight, that serves delicious food.

GO GREEN
Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden, regarded as one of the most beautiful in the world, is the perfect place to let children run free amidst 7,000 different species of flora. While the gardens are lush year-round, the best time to visit for maximum plants in flower is in spring and early summer (August-November).

Photo: Courtesy of Cape Grace Hotel

WHERE TO STAY

Cape Town is a city that is easily explored on foot, so a central location is key. There are several good bets for families, as well as smaller, stylish places that are perfect for couples or solo travelers.

Cape Grace Hotel
Set on a private quay on the bustling Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, the hotel has an ideal mix of top-notch service, rooms that look across the harbor in all directions, and the all-important swimming pool (especially during the warmer summer months). It is newer in feel, and the amenities — kitchenettes, great laundry service, massive terrace — make for a successful, smooth stay.

The Mount Nelson Hotel
The hotel remains old-school, with 209 rooms overlooking Table Mountain, lush gardens, or the hotel pool. Restored garden cottage suites work well for couples seeking a hidden retreat; superior one-bedroom suites are perfect for families. Nine acres of gardens and proximity to Two Oceans Aquarium make the hotel great for kids.

The Cape Heritage Hotel
There's a wonderful mix of South African history throughout the recently-renovated rooms, along with enormous, high-ceilinged suites, state-of-the-art bathrooms, and a sweet trellised courtyard. The hotel is all about social responsibility: They participate in mentoring programs for at-risk kids and support local producers and craftspeople.

Cape Cadogan
A tiny gem of a boutique hotel that perfectly mixes history with contemporary, chic accents. This place is very high-touch, almost like staying in a tasteful friend's home.

One & Only Cape Town
Centrally located and probably the slickest game town with excellent dining options (Nobu and Maze restaurants) and incredible spa offerings (Elevate massages, yoga classes).

Photo: Courtesy of Harbour House

WHERE TO EAT

You just can't go wrong. From delicious sushi and Italian specialties to local Cape cuisine, the emphasis is on fresh ingredients and plates that please both the palate and the eye. You'll find universal favorites almost everwhere: the ubiquitous Caesar salad, California rolls, fish and chips, thin crust pizzas — all slightly reimagined and all delicious — as well as Dutch and Afrikaans-inspired dishes.

Harbour House
Their newest outpost is located directly on the Victoria & Alfred waterfront, and an outdoor table is a great spot for watching boats and buskers. Best described as a modern fusion, the menu ranges from light pastas and maki rolls for kids to freshly grilled Kingklip, a local fish delicacy.

Live Bait
A casual open-air bistro on a pier in quaint Kalk Bay, overlooking the water and the basking seals below. The lunch menu is perfect for a light bite: catches of the day, prawn cocktail, inventive signature salads, and freshly shucked oysters. As with most restaurants in South Africa, there really is something for everyone.

The Grand Café & Beach
Just a five-minute walk from town on Granger Bay, this is the place to people-wach (seriously leggy blondes in strappy sandals) and enjoy a varied menu of seafood, wood-fired pizzas, and a dessert sampler that I'm still recovering from (indigenous fruits, popsicles, chocolates). The place feels a bit like Ibiza. Kids can frolic with an enormous disco ball in the sand. Good times.

The Bunglaow. Photo: Christina Ohly

The Bungalow
Located in scenic Clifton, just a few miles outside of town, the relative newcomer is exactly what traevlers from wintry, dark clime seek: a sprawling outdoor deck overlooking the sea, an incredibly cheerful wait staff, and a little techno/house overlay in the background. It's a restaurant by evening, but turns into a full-on club in the wee hours. Go for the top-knotch burgers with guacamole and brie, vanilla-smoked butterfish, and the view.

Babylonstoren
If I had my way, Babylonstoren would serve me my last meal on earth. Set in the Winelands, the innovative farm/restaurant/small inn is a perfect mix of fresh produce, imaginative cuisine, and tasteful minimalist out-buildings that meld seamlessly into the landscape. Stroll the expansive gardens before drinking freshly squeezed juices, delving into salads of all tastes and colors — red (slow-roasted tomato, crisp wild rice, pomegranate), yellow (spekboom, melon, sweetcorn), and green (spinach chiffonade, minted zucchini ribbons) — not to mention the most succulent, locally farmed lamb cutlets that will ever pass your lips. I am still in awe of this place, and I'm pretty sure Alice Waters would be, too. Miraculously, it's remarkably inexpensive, and they cater to kids (a French fry is a French fry, organic or not).

95 Keeron
Delicious tuna tartare, carpaccios of beef and line fish, and grilled ostrich filet are all on the menu at the minimalist, Milanese favorite. The brick-and-wood interior with warm, natural lighting, it´s a vibrant (though relaxing) spot with a bit of buzz.

Bistro Sixteen82
A glass-and-light-filled, Zen oasis at Steenberg Vineyards in Constantia Valley with views of False Bay in the distance. Savor plum tomato gazpacho, summer vegetable capellini, locally cured meats, and a killer carrot cake "composition" for dessert. The kids menu is so good that parents will happily devour any/all of it.

The Roundhouse
A former hunting lodge overlooking beautiful Camps Bay where they serve a feast of tapas and local specialties like fallow deer, cob, and guinea fowl sausage. The cuisine is refined South African with modern European twists, and the atmosphere is laid back enough to keep from feeling oppressive. Oenophiles will love this one for its extensive cellar and unique pairings.

Other Good Bets
Il Leone Mastrantonio for great Italian.
Greenhouse at Cellars for imaginative tasting menus in an intimate setting.
Café Paradiso for kids' pizza-making programs.
Test Kitchen for creative takes on traditional Cape cuisine.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

When To Go
Cape Town enjoys a sunny, mild climate year-round, but it is at its very best between November and March, when the days are long and dry.

How To Get There
South African Airways and British Airways both offer nightly non-stop flights direct to Cape Town International Airport (CPT), and South African Airways also has flights from New York to Johannesberg with connections to Cape Town on local carriers.

Great Guides and Planners
India Baird (+27-0-82-734-4569): An American civil rights lawyer, foodie, and outdoorswoman who gave us lots of local color and insider knowledge.
Lisa Lindbald Travel Design: Based in New York with a knack for arranging the best tours, operators, and in-country flights.
Ilios Tours: For Table Mountain tours, transfers, and more specifics.

Roksanda Ilincic’s favourite digital detox destination

The designer heads for the Montenegro countryside of her childhood

“Like a lot of people, I’m too attached to my phone. If I’m in transit or away from my desk, I’m texting and emailing. I have my own company, so people expect 24/7 access; switching is always going to be hard – but I make a real effort to do it, for quality time with my husband and my eight-year-old daughter. I can go a full week without a phone or social media, and do; it just takes an enormous amount of advance preparation. 

The place I go to shut down and reflect is Montenegro. When I am surrounded by beautiful nature and the Adriatic, I don’t want to be in communication – not with work emails, not with Instagram. I am there to be in that moment, with my family. And I want to make sure my daughter has a real sense of her Serbian roots.

Fashion designer Roksanda Ilincic | Image: Getty Images

My parents have a little house in Ada Bojana, in southern Montenegro where the sea merges with the river. It has always been a very, very hippy, rustic part of the country. There’s even a nude beach – it adds to the laidback atmosphere. They bought the land to escape the bustle of city life, and it’s still very untouched. It’s in a dense forest, so is cool and shady. We use it as our base for exploring the surrounding mountain villages, beaches and the many bays. I read; I eat in all of the little local restaurants that I grew up with. But mostly I love to just spend time with my parents; the undivided attention makes them especially happy.

With only my camera, we’ll drive to Skader Lake, which is an ideal spot to rent a boat. There are beautiful lilies that line the shore, and also unusual bird species. The place, the whole experience, is very meditative. 

For friends looking for a detox – digital or otherwise – I often recommend Aman Sveti Stefan, set in a 15th-century fishing village overlooking the Adriatic Sea. It is very understated and one of Montenegro’s real treasures. From here you can sail or hike in Lovcen National Park. It’s the perfect place to detach and decompress. 

Many of the towns in Montenegro are high in the mountains, where the soil is better for farming. I visited a remote village last summer – it was a steep 45-minute walk up, and totally off the grid – and met a wonderful granny who still lives there despite the village being almost abandoned. She offered us coffee at the end of our hike, a traditional welcome in this country; and I loved hearing her stories. I didn’t have a phone with me, so I was totally focused on the moment – really able to absorb the setting and the being back to basics with zero distractions.

I’ve had to teach myself to unplug over the years. Like anyone running their own business, I am reliant on the people I hire, and it has taken a lot of practice to convince myself things won’t fall apart when I’m away and offline. Returning to the office is a different story; there is never an easing back in, it’s full-on back to work. But I feel refreshed and ready for it. And usually I don’t feel like I’ve missed anything.”

The Gilded Age Fantasy Is Alive and Thriving at Blantyre

Special Covid-19 travel considerations: The hotel is following all Covid-19 guidelines for safety and cleanliness, and is open to guests from Wednesday though Saturday night. Cafe Boulud at Blantyre is serving dinner from Wednesday through Sunday and brunch on weekends. Breakfasts are all in-room; lunches are boxed and served poolside or picnic-style on the grounds. Pianist Karèn Tchougourian is not performing this summer. As for area attractions, Tanglewood took its music program online this summer, and while the museums are reopening, it's a smart idea to call ahead before you venture out.

Blantyre
Lenox, Massachusetts
Opulent, $$$$ (from $645)

At the turn of the 20th century, when the well-heeled needed a place to rest their heads as they shuttled between seasons in New York, Palm Beach, and Newport, they settled on a wooded area of the Berkshires where the spring and fall temperatures were just right. (You know how the well-heeled are...)

Today, only a dozen of these Gilded Age "cottages" remain, including Blantyre, a country resort and estate just outside Lenox, Massachusetts, which is now under new ownership. You're welcome to come for a visit and pretend that time is standing gloriously still.

I spent a weekend here in June with my husband and friends, imagining this beautiful Tudor House, with its perfectly appointed decor — crystal carafes set for wine, elaborate chandeliers, and overstuffed sofas — was all mine. I totally indulged my fantasy of living in an Edith Wharton novel.

The Main Hall.

The Terrace.

Days began with long breakfasts on the Terrace overlooking the gardens and surrounding countryside; afternoons were whiled away reading, sunbathing, and swimming in the pool; dinner was a tasting menu in the Conservatory. I had a terrific facial at the Blantryre spa. We took a lazy trip into Lenox to stroll around town. On a tour of the estate, in-house historian David Pupo regaled me with stories of former owners (including filmmaker D.W. Griffith) and the antics the house has seen. With more time we would have gone to a concert under the stars at Tanglewood: It's another reason to come back.

After dinner came my favorite part of the day, sitting in the Music Room, listening to Karèn Tchougourian, the long-haired Vampire Lestat-looking pianist, playing across the room as I help myself to glass after glass of the port left out for guests to help themselves. (I'm told he is an empath who can intuit what you want to hear. I'm ready to call bullshit when he starts playing the Cole Porter tune I had just been thinking. I do my best not to start singing along, but I can't help myself. I blame the port.)

About that new owner: Linda Law is a San Francisco-based real estate developer who first saw Blantyre when she was a graduate student in Boston. One day, she thought to herself, I will own this place. If you see her around the house, stop for a chat. She's lively and lovely, and under her care, Blantyre's illustrious past will continue into a bright future.

Book It

Rates change seasonally and start at $645. Click here for reservations. Or get in touch with the Fathom Travel Concierge and we can plan your trip for you.

The Music Room.

A rear view of the Manor House.

Checking In

Location
Blantyre is located on a beautiful, wooded 110-acre estate in the part of the Berkshires Mountains that's all green rolling hills and genteel countryside. The cute town of Lenox is an easy ten-minute drive away.

Hotel Style
Gilded Age glory. This is the place to unleash your inner robber baron and pretend you've earned a spot on Mrs. Astor's list of 400.

This Place Is Perfect For
Couples, especially from the northeast, who want a romantic getaway for a few days.

But Not So Perfect For
Families. This is an adults-only operation. No children under 16 are allowed.

The Bistro.

The Conservatory.

The Wine Cellar.

What’s on Site
The ground floor of the main building, the Tudor-style Manor House, has the opulent lobby, outdoor Terrace, Music Room, Bistro, and Conservatory restaurant. The second floor has eight bedrooms; the basement is home to a massive wine cellar with more than 7,000 bottles, which is available for special events. (Once upon a time, the basement was also home to a speakeasy and a nightclub. If those brick-lined walls could talk...) Books — shelves and stacks of them — are everywhere, lining the upstairs hallways and neatly arranged in the Music Room. The pool and spa are located a leisurely walk or bike ride slightly downhill, past the Carriage House and Cottages. Also on the property are a tennis court, a croquet pitch, and Tesla charging station. Look for the statue of the bear in the woods on the drive up from the main entrance. It's really too cute.

Food + Drink
Food is very important to Blantyre's DNA: The hotel was the first Relais & Château property in North America. New for summer 2020 is Cafe Boulud at Blantyre, which will be serving a $78 prix-fixe dinner and two- or three-course prix fixe weekend brunch in the gorgeous Conservatory from Wednesday through Sunday until mid-October. Chef Daniel Boulud and his team have crafted a local, seasonal menu with a French accent: garlic roasted chicken with summer bean fricassee; a Frenchie Burger with confit pork belly, Morbier cheese, and tomato-onion jam; and heirloom tomato salad with basil-sunflower pesto. Breakfasts will be delivered in-room; lunch will be served poolside or picnic-style throughout the property. The bar attached to the Conservatory, deemed The Most Beautifully Designed Bar in Massachusetts by Architectural Digest, serves Gilded Age-inspired cocktails.

The Laurel Suite.

The Blue Room.

The Crimson Suite.

Cottage by the Path.

The Loft Suite in the Carriage House.

A Loft Suite in the Carriage House.

Number of Rooms
24 rooms in all. The eight in the Manor House are decorated in classic, Gilded Age style, in keeping with the decor on the ground floor: four-poster beds, period paintings, patterned textiles in the curtains and fluffy pillows. The rooms in the Carriage House are more contemporary. The stand-alone Cottages are primarily traditional in style and a great option for families.

Standout Detail
The ground floor of the Manor House, and especially the Music Room. And if you're curious, and you should be, see if you can get an estate tour from David Pupo, the director of membership and concierge services who does double duty as the in-house historian. He's been coming to the estate since he was a local kid swimming in the pool.

The pool and spa.

Outside Riverview cottage.

The entrance.

Checking Out

What to Do Nearby
The nearby town of Lenox is cute and preppy, as expected for this part of the world, with everything concentrated into a few walkable blocs: a great local bookstore, The Bookstore and Get Lit Wine Bar, a bar with an outdoor patio (The Olde Heritage Tavern), and a tapas restaurant (Brava). The clothes and housewares in most of the shops were nothing to get excited about, with two extremely stylish exceptions: Design Menagerie and MacKimmie Co.

The surrounding Berkshires are rich with cultural offerings. Tanglewood, the summer home of the Boston Symphony Orchestra, has an extensive and accessible program through August (translation: tickets are easy to get); the new Tanglewood Learning Institute offers year-round programming of lectures, films, and performances. Also nearby: MASS MoCA, The Clark, Jacob's Pillow, and the Norman Rockwell Museum. I've saved the best for last: The Mount, Edith Wharton's former house and gardens, which is a few miles down the road.

Plan Your Trip

How to Get There: Albany International Airport is one hour away; Boston's Logan Airport is just over two hours away.

Getting Around: You'll want a car to explore the area. The surroundings make for a really lovely drive.

Say Spa-aaaaah! The World’s Best Spa Treatments 2019

In this month’s edition of the Fathom Travel Awards, we’re celebrating all things wellness by shining a spotlight on the treatments and spa rituals that make us feel whole again.

While we'd never pass up a blissfully relaxing massages or a wow-you're-glowing facial (because we always have time for those!), these are services that up the ante on what a spa can do and be. From ancient Turkish traditions to futuristic brain journeys, these innovative offerings (and their striking environments) take spa-going to another level — and may even be the highlight of your trip.

Photo courtesy of Six Senses Spa.

The Swiss Facial That Will Make You Glow

The Alpina Gstaad, Six Senses Spa
Where: Gstaad, Switzerland
What’s to Love: The stunning alpine setting, natural materials and warm wood finishes, and all-natural, largely botanical products make the spa at Six Senses, a hotel company known for its wellness offerings, a Zen oasis in the middle of the Bernes Overland. The Swiss Anti-Aging Jewel Facial (60 minutes, $240) starts with a bamboo peel, followed by a most invigorating massage and the application of a nutrient-rich serum extracted from indigenous plants. This viscous Royal Jelly is applied as a mask, giving the skin hefty doses of vitamins and trace elements that will make you glow. The sound healing treatments using singing bowls, gongs, and crystal tuning forks are relaxing and restorative as well.

Photo courtesy of Royal Mansour.

The Hammam Fit for Royalty

Royal Mansour Marrakech Spa
Where: Marrakesh, Morocco
What’s to Love: Excellent hammam experiences at every price point are a local specialty in Marrakech, where liquid olive oil soup and a kessa massage glove are essential souk souvenirs. But the hammams at Royal Mansour are on another dimension of awesome — as is the entire spa, which is as gorgeous as you'd expect one built for the royal family to be. The Signature Hammam (75 minutes; 1600 MAD / $165) has options evocative of three Moroccan regions: The Atlas Mountains (lavender and holy basil), Taliounie (saffron), and Kalaat M'Gouna (roses). Temps Pour Soi (90 minutes; 2000 MAD / $207) includes a masterful scrub and washing in a jewel-like bathing temple (there's no other word for it), followed by an almond milk shampoo and a 20-minute massage. Oh, you only answer to "sultan" or "sultana" from now on? After this, that's understandable.

Photo courtesy of Nihi Sumba.

The Ultimate Spa Day in the Balinese Jungle

Nihi Sumba
Where: Sumba Island, Indonesia
What’s to Love: Nihioka Spa Safari is unlike anything you will ever experience. After a long walk through jungle, rice paddy fields, and a local village — during which you basically sweat your entire body weight out — you arrive to a magical oasis to find fresh coconuts to sip on and a semi-outdoor shower to rinse off in. Plush robes are waiting, as is breakfast in a cabana overlooking the ocean. Below are two perfect, private white-sand beaches with the bluest water you will ever see. After you eat (they'll whip up anything you'd like), you can go swimming in the ocean or lay by the pool. From there, the spa-ing begins. You can choose a half-day or a full day of unlimited treatments. Yes, unlimited. You can get massaged for hours or mix your own cocktail of body wraps, hair-conditioning, acupressure, facials, and more. It’s totally up to you. After you finish, they will bring you tea and snacks before taking you back to the hotel.

Photo courtesy of Oberoi Hotels & Resorts.

Health and Wellness at the Foothills of the Himalayas

The Oberoi Sukhvilas Spa Resort, New Chandigarh
Where: Chandigarh, India
What’s to Love: The Ayurvedic cleansing ritual Dinacharya (90 minutes, $120) is meant to be practiced daily. The therapist begins by cleansing your eyes with a medicated liniment, your ears with drops of oil, your mouth with an oil-based mouthwash, and your respiratory system with a medicinal smoke. From there, they liberally apply oil to the entire body in long strokes. While it's not meant to be the most relaxing treatment, it's remarkably invigorating. Your skin will feel like silk for days.

Photo courtesy of Babylonstoren.

A Modern Take on an Ancient Turkish Tradition

Babylonstoren
Where: Simondium, South Africa
What’s to Love: Partake in an ancient Turkish cleansing treatment at a garden oasis in the winelands outside Cape Town. Recommended for couples, the Hammam Traditional Soap Treatment (60 minutes, $150) takes place in a private, marble-laden steam room with a heated stone-slab treatment table and gorgeous blue-mosaic-tiled-ceiling. After a vigorous scrub with Turkish gloves, lukewarm water is repeatedly poured over the body, creating a Zen-like state, while the heat and steam relax tired and sore muscles. From there a soapy piece of cloth shaped like a long rectangular balloon is filled with air and used to rub down the entire body. You'll leave feeling squeaky clean with the skin of a newborn baby.

Photo courtesy of SHA Wellness Clinic.

Futuristic Brain Treatments for Mental Clarity

SHA Wellness Clinic
Where: Alacant, Spain
What’s to Love: A few months ago, the luxury resort and spa that looks like it was plucked from the pages of a futuristic William Gibson novel launched a duo of non-invasive brain treatments. Led by the charismatic Dr. Bruno Ribeiro, a neuroscientist and psychologist, the program caters to those looking to tap into optimal brain vitality, productivity, and to accelerate cellular recovery. Brain Photobiomodulation ($225 per session), developed with Harvard University-NASA technology, sends varying infrared light wavelengths to dormant parts of the brain to boost energy, performance, and improve concentration. Meanwhile, Transcranial Current Stimulation ($45 per session), which also has a Harvard pedigree, addresses everything from addiction to depression to migraines — and helps you catch your Zzzzs. Sessions run 45 minutes, an ideal time to talk to Dr. Ribeiro about — no pun intended — what’s on your mind before springing outdoors to soak in the salty Mediterranean air.

Photo courtesy of Hoshinoya Resorts.

Japanese Hospitality That Takes You to New Heights

Hoshinoya Tokyo
Where: Tokyo, Japan
What’s to Love: The indoor/outdoor ryokan-style baths on the top floor of the luxurious hotel are fed by hot springs piped from 1,500 meters below the city streets. Therapies begin with a soak (and, if you like, at night, a view of starry skies), a stretching session, and an oil treatment tailored to each guest’s needs. In typically hospitable Japanese fashion, glasses of ice cold milk, hot teas, and beautiful specialty snacks are provided at the end.
Read More on Fathom: A Stunning Japanese Ryokan in the Heart of Tokyo

Photo courtesy of Burgenstock Resort.

An Out-of-Body Experience Without Any Drugs

Burgenstock Hotels & Resort Alpine Spa
Where: Bürgenstock, Switzerland
What’s to Love: The Bürgenstock Alpine Body by Suzanne Kaufmann (90 minutes, $300) is an immersive combination of a revitalizing peel and a whole body massage designed to stimulate the metabolism and all of those neglected connective tissues. The invigorating head massage alone is worth the hefty price tag for this thoroughly relaxing, holistic – dare we say transcendent? – experience. The combination of Swiss botanical creams, skilled masseuses, and all of that fresh mountain air – complete with clanging cowbells in the distance – leaves you thoroughly limp, in the best possible way.

Photo courtesy of Ojai Valley Inn.

West Coast Energy Boost

Spa Ojai at Ojai Valley Inn
Where: Ojai, California
What’s to Love: Get a big does of hippy-dippy California at the Ojai Valley Inn where it's all about spiritual energy and wild-crafted Kypris skincare products. Named for the East West Ojai Valley, the East West Ritual for Balanced Beauty (100 minutes, $355) is designed to revive energy flow using polarity techniques. The rose quartz facial massage is next level. You'll leave this lengthy, sybaritic session feeling rested with absolutely glowing skin.

Photo courtesy of The Retreat at Blue Lagoon.

An Out-of-This World Massage at an Otherworldly Retreat

The Retreat at Blue Lagoon
Where: Grindavík, Iceland
What’s to Love: Book an in-water massage (from $142) at the spa at this ultra-luxe hotel, and you'll get a portion of Iceland’s famous Blue Lagoon all to yourself. The muscle-melting treatment takes place in a part of the lagoon only accessible to spa guests. You get the same pastel blue, silica-rich, good-for-your-skin geothermal seawater everyone comes to Iceland to experience, just without any of the tourists. After working out your knots, detoxing in the subterranean steam cave, and reflective on the spa’s panoramic terrace (with a rejuvenating skyr smoothie in-hand), you’ll never want to do this iconic Icelandic landmark differently ever again.

Photo courtesy of Amangiri.

Massage to Take Your Breath Away

Amangiri
Where: Canyon Point, Utah
What’s to Love: The desert-view spa is perched on 600 stunning acres of protected land on the Colorado Plateau. The location alone will take your breath away. So will the spa program, which takes cues from traditional healing systems the world over, particularly those of the Navajo. Among the plethora of incredible Zen-inducing offerings (candlelit yoga, floatation therapy, full- or half-day movement journeys), a massage from the knowing hands of masseur David Sanchez is the highlight. (Yes, he's that good.) Massages, which start with sage smudging ceremonies and end with crystal sound baths and use Aman’s all-natural skincare products, can be had individually (60 minutes, $225; 90 minutes, $325) or as a balancing, nourishing, or purifying signature treatment (105 minutes, $400), which kick off with a heavenly mineral-rich foot massage ritual.

Photo courtesy of Tomoko.

Massage to Make You Feel Whole Again

Tomoko
Where: Beverly Hills, California
What’s to Love: The super-minimal spa is considered one of LA’s best kept secrets, a soothing hideaway you might find in Japan. It's totally luxurious, without the glitz. The incredibly indulgent massages (from $200) are at once therapeutic and technical, as if the body workers have intuitive knowledge of where your pain is and how to fix it — with Swedish and Japanese techniques, hot stones, foot soaks, and sake.

A special thank you to Fathom contributors Victoria Cairo, Allison Reiber DiLiegro, Emily Dougherty, Alex Erdman, Darlene Fiske, Mary Holland, Brooke Lavery, Crystal Meers, Nicole Najafi, and Christina Ohly.

More Adventures in Wellness

Was It All Just a Dream? Tales from Heavenly Vair Spa in Puglia
The Hotel Is Great, But You Should See the Spa
Weightlessness, Libra Tables, Stress Assessments, Ionizers: 4 Next-Level Spa Treatments That Might Change Your Life

Three-Day Weekends from Washington, D.C.

Need some quiet weekend plans away from the action/adventure/machinations of Washington, D.C.? We have a few ideas.

WASHINGTON, D.C. –  Sometimes it can be hard to forget that there's a whole world out there beyond Capitol Hill. But it's true! Pastoral charm, double five-diamond meals, and views of the Blue Ridge Mountains are within reach of the weekend.

Here are a few places to start:

It doesn't get more charming than this. Photo courtesy of The Inn at Little Washington.

SPERRYVILLE, VIRGINIA

If you're in the mood for: scenic hikes and truly stellar meals.

Route to take: The 72-mile drive takes approximately two hours by car. Don't miss the scenic Skyline Drive that winds through the Shenandoah National Park and features waterfalls and starry skies.

Your agenda: Chef Patrick O'Connell at The Inn at Little Washington oversees one of the world's only double five-diamond establishments where chawanmushi (warm, local duck egg “tea cup” custard with ginger-scented Asian tea) and carpaccio of herb-crusted baby lamb loin are the orders of the day. Once in a blissful food coma, repair to one of the historic Relais & Chateaux's sumptuous suites and take in the garden views. 

Avoid the Sunday blues: Check out will be depressing, so stock up at the Inn's Tavern Shop where chef O'Connell has selected exquisite kitchen items, including Laguiole knives and artisanal cheeses.

Ah, the country life. Photo courtesy of Red Fox Inn. 

MIDDLEBURG, VIRGINIA

If you’re in the mood for: a romantic weekend with a backdrop of rolling green hills and grazing horses.

Route to take: Drive a little over an hour on Route 50 east of Washington, D.C.

Your agenda: The charming Red Fox Inn was established in 1728 and has been visited by historical greats like George Washington, John F. Kennedy, and Elizabeth Taylor. Try The Goodstone Inn & Estate Restaurant for farm-to-table French cuisine sourced from the onsite organic herb and vegetable gardens.

Avoid the Sunday blues: With a glass of RdV Vineyards' Lost Mountain cabernet sauvignon at the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. The intimate winery accepts tastings by appointment only, so book in advance. 

Swish! Viceroy Snowmass Delivers Family Fun, Especially on Skis

Fathom contributor Christina Ohly found everything she needed for a family-friendly luxury ski vacation under one roof outside Aspen in Snowmass, Colorado.

Viceroy Snowmass
Snowmass, Colorado
Modern, $$ (from $235)

Snowmass is a great family playground, especially during ski season. There is varied terrain for all ability levels, and the village is quaint. But it was lacking in the luxury hotel sector until Viceroy Snowmass came along and infused a little Scandinavian chalet chic into the area. With its slopeside location, state-of-the-art spa, and varied dining options, it is the place to position yourself if you're looking for a relaxing getaway — particularly with kids in tow — as the ski-in/ski-out location can't be beat. The Viceroy's lower level ski shop makes rentals, lift tickets, and ski instructor meet-ups (all pre-arranged through a concierge) a breeze, and helpful ski valets attend to children's boot buckles and hand warmer needs. The resort feels very high-touch, but in a low-key, LEED-friendly way. When the snow melts, you can head to the slopes for hiking, biking, and other summery outdoor activities.

The lobby at Viceroy Snowmass.

The pool and bar.

Claims to Fame

All 173 spacious rooms — from 375-square-foot studios to sprawling four-bedroom suites, many of which have recently been renovated — are furnished in dark woods, with pullout sofas, lovely throws, and gourmet kitchenettes. Anything larger than a one-bedroom comes with washer-dryers, which not only make light work of wet gear at day's end, but also cuts down on packing needs. (Clearly, a parent was involved designing these stylish yet functional spaces.) The subterranean spa, which can do wonders for unexpected altitude sickness, has treatments and rituals inspired by the Ute, local Native People. But the biggest claim to fame has to be the location. Just above the Assay Hill lift, you have access to 3,000+ acres of perfectly groomed trails and won't have to worry about missing the last lift back to your lodge after the last run, as is often the case with other properties.

What's on Site

The Viceroy is a self-contained unit. If it's a spa weekend you're after, you'll never have to leave. Skiers and nature warriors, however, will delight in a host of offerings that starts with a hearty breakfast buffet of breakfast burritos and blueberry-lemon quinoa pancakes at Toro Kitchen and Lounge, which becomes the hotel's fine dining restaurant by night. After fueling up, your warming ski boots are an elevator ride away. The valet at Four Mountain Sports will help with skis, poles, and replacing the inevitable lost mitten. Ski instructors will meet you right here, which lessens the chance of kid (or parent) meltdowns.

Après-ski offerings are a plus as well: welcoming hot chocolate and s'mores, a sleek outdoor pool, a fitness room for anyone with energy to spare, and an inviting bar all beckon. Friday nights throughout the ski season feature nighttime celebrations at nearby Elk Camp where tubing, snowshoeing, ice skating, and snow biking are all on offer and are easily accessible by nearby gondola. Summer brings outdoor events like bike rides, rodeos, and outdoor concerts.

The bar at Nest Public House.

Toro Kitchen and Lounge.

The Food

Breakfast, the most important meal of any ski day, is delicious, varied, and filling, as are dinners of Colorado rack of lamb at chef Richard Sandoval's Toro. But it was a lunch of grilled shrimp tacos at Nest Public House that won my heart. A new bar extension of Nest means you can eat near the pool and the lift. An easy ski run takes you to Base Camp Bar & Grill, the restaurant next to the hotel's ski shop, where light chopped salads and creative sandwiches are served quickly for the skier who wants to get back on the mountain.

Aspen, seven miles down the road, is a true foodie town. So it's worth leaving Snowmass to explore such culinary gems as Casa Tua, Matsuhisa, and Meat & Cheese, the area's latest and greatest restaurant-cum-charcuterie market.

Rooms with a View

Virtually every Viceroy room has a sweeping view of Roaring Fork Valley and trails, but I highly recommend east-facing rooms overlooking the Assay lift for a family of four. The one-bedroom, sizable suites feature pullout sofas that work for younger kids. Streamlined gas fireplaces throw off serious heat, which lends the separate spaces a cozy feel. For a total house party, four-bedroom apartments include communal living spaces and great views of the surrounding peaks at twilight. Avoid north-facing rooms that look out over the access road to the main village. Not nearly as pretty.

A kid's room at Viceroy Snowmass.

A spacious hotel room kitchen at Viceroy Snowmass.

This Place Is Perfect For

Anyone who likes design-led spaces and close proximity to ski lifts. Viceroy is perfect for families, as rooms are configured for sharing and are often interconnected. The hotel's Very Important Kids program will appeal to the younger set, with movies, games, bowling, and more.

But Not So Perfect For

A quiet couples weekend. Viceroy is kid central, and while they do it in a quiet, casual way, school vacation times are packed with small people.

Book It

Rates vary seasonally and start at $235 per night. Click here for reservations. Or contact the Fathom Concierge and we'll book your trip for you.

Guest room details.

CHECKING OUT

Neighborhood Vibe

Snowmass Base Village just underwent a major renovation. A new ice rink and a five-story indoor climbing wall located in the recently opened Limelight Hotel Snowmass offer more reason than ever to stick around Snowmass, but if you're looking for a change of scene, you're certainly at no loss for options. Aspen Snowmass consists of four mountains, all accessible on one lift ticket: In addition to Snowmass, there's Aspen Mountain in Aspen town, lower-key Aspen Highlands, and xtreme-sports-friendly Buttermilk.

Your dedicated Aspen ski and snowboard instructor will accompany you to any of the mountains, making for a seamless ski experience on many varied terrains.

What to Do Nearby

For a small mountain town, Aspen is packed with cultural offerings — galleries, lectures, museums, events. One of the newest is the Shigeru Ban-designed Aspen Art Museum with its rotating contemporary art exhibits and stunning rooftop café.

Food is another central focus, from the world-class sushi at Matsuhisa and Kenichi, to fine dining at Cache Cache and Casa Tua. For a lighter meal in a casual, buzzy atmosphere, head to Meat & Cheese on East Hopkins Avenue, where abundant cheese boards are accompanied by pickles, preserves, and crackers and porchetta assortments are ideal for sharing. The wood-fired pizzas at Mezzaluna make it a perennial kid favorite, and its location near Aspen Mountain ensure added après-ski entertainment. Top off any hard day outdoors with a finely crafted cocktail at Aspen's newest speakeasy, Bad Harriet, at Hotel Jerome.

Nordic skiers will love the Aspen Cross Country Center for its 25+ miles of trails. Lessons and gear are available through Ute Mountaineer.

Ashcroft Ski Touring is another great bet and offers cross country skiing through an old ghost town, just twelve miles from Aspen.

Keep Exploring Aspen/Snowmass

Fathom's Aspen Guide
What's New in Aspen 2019
Re-Losing My Virginity On The Slopes
Snowmass Is Ski Heaven for the Whole Family

Neal Benezra’s perfect weekend in San Francisco

The director of the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art oversees the largest modern art collection in the US after a recent $305m renovation and expansion of the institution

“I’m up by 6am, even on a Saturday, and I’ll escape catching up on work emails by making a breakfast outing to Plow on Potrero Hill, where they make the most fantastic lemon ricotta pancakes.

Saturday mornings are great for farmers’ markets, such as the small but excellent one on 24th Street, near my home in Noe Valley. I am an improvising cook so I go by what is fresh, but I’m a particular devotee of broccolini and California artichokes. While there are many vendors I love, Cowgirl Creamery is a favourite for superb cheeses, especially a good, sharp Gorgonzola.

With the food shopping done, I’ll head to Browser Books on Fillmore Street. I’m still a store shopper as I like to feel a book’s weight, see the colour and the typeface. Aesthetics are important and this intimate shop is a rare treat these days.

Lunches are casual and, if my daughter is in town, we might go to a burger joint called The Ramp on San Francisco Bay. Then I’ll take in some of the Bay Area art scene, which is having a moment. As well as established places, there are interesting new ones popping up; I’ll wander around Dogpatch, home to the Minnesota Street Project’s communal galleries and the McEvoy Foundation. Then, just below the Bay Bridge on the Embarcadero sits Pier 24, an exciting space for photography set up by the Pilara family.

Because San Francisco is such a foodie city Saturday night reservations can be tough to get, so my wife Maria and I go early for dinner, followed by a film. A great spot is Tartine Manufactory in Mission. The space has a huge energy and the food is creative and delicious. I’ll have pork ribs with pumpkin-seed salsa and some of the bakery’s legendary bread – I take a hiatus from my low-gluten diet there. It’s in the same building as Heath Ceramics, so there is always a little shopping to be done while you wait.

Movies are a passion and there is no shortage of interesting cinema in this city. We’ll go to The Clay or Castro. I love these old-world movie houses and the Castro still has its 1920s frontage and an organist who plays before each screening.

Sundays we might head to Point Reyes and hike before having oysters for lunch at one of the funky shacks on Tomales Bay. Cycling is another passion and I love to head down to the peninsula, where I’ll ride around Palo Alto and Portola Valley – it’s less hilly than San Francisco and safer. The weather in the city can be dicey and it’s amazing that it is so warm and sunny just 30 miles away. It takes about 45 minutes to get there, but after a two-hour bike ride and a visit to the Anderson Collection at Stanford University, I feel I’ve had a complete mental cleanse.

Back in the city, the evening might involve another film at Modern Cinema at SFMOMA or the Pacific Film Archive at the Berkeley Art Museum. Dinner is at Out the Door, a Vietnamese in Fillmore that serves imaginative dishes like Shaking Beef – filet mignon with watercress, red onion and lime. Then I like to read the papers – from The New York Times to the Financial Times. We are a long way from the world’s major art capitals and it’s likely I’ll be flying to China, Abu Dhabi or New York the next day. Luckily, my weekends are about family and having some semblance of a life – that way I feel recharged and ready for the week ahead.”

The World's Most Romantic Hotels 2019: You Love Your Third Wheel

In this year's edition of the World's Most Romantic Hotels, we're celebrating the third wheel. Too often maligned as the wedge that can drive you and your beloved apart, we'd rather think of the third wheel as the force that draws you together, the shared passion that cements your bond. Remember, you've a big heart and a whole lotta love to give.

If You Love Each Other and You Also Love...

...ADRENALINE

Tordrillo Mountain Lodge
Judd Lake, Alaska

What's to Love: A multimillion-dollar revamp by thrill-seeking owners (Olympic gold medalist Tommy Moe and Alaskan heli-ski pioneer Mike Overcast) takes the heart rate to new heights at this five-star, multi-sport wilderness lodge. A 40-minute floatplane flight from Anchorage lands guests in the remote Tordrillo Mountains, where stylish digs, fancy chefs, a lakeside sauna, and in-room massages round out helicopter-based adventure experiences all year long. An accomplished guide team leads guests in skiing and snowboarding through steep gullies and powder fields. Summer calls for glacier hiking, wake surfing, waterskiing, wildlife viewing, and catching the Northern Lights at night.

Photos by Tanveer Badal.

...THE BEACH

Hotel Esencia
Riviera Maya, Mexico

What's to Love: You land in Cancun and drive an hour south. You turn left into the edge of the jungle and are escorted via golf cart through a thicket of vines — cue the peacocks calling out their welcome — emerging onto the quietly grand former estate of an Italian duchess, who you're told built this place to be near her lover. You pass turtles swimming a small cenote, pause for afternoon tea in the sitting room, and check into your room — a sea of white punctuated by a colorful pillow, a dramatic palm frond. Two pools await, as does a secluded beach along a gentle bay. Go-go Tulum is close by, as are excellent archaeological and ecological sites, but if all you want to think about is morning yoga, another bottle of Casa Madero rosé, the guacamole and tacos at Mistura restaurant, and getting back to the day bed along the shore, you're making the right decision.

Photos courtesy of Southern Ocean Lodge.

...GOING TO EXTREMES

Southern Ocean Lodge
Kangaroo Island, Australia

What's to Love: There's no such thing as half measures when you're about as far south as you can go before hitting Antarctica. The hotel design is dramatic and impressive: Suites sweep out from the open-plan common area in a descending crescent shape, framed by a private beach on one end and a cliffside walk on the other. There's nothing but nature wherever you look, whether out to sea from your unobstructed balcony or at the surrounding greenery on your leisurely walks. (Keep your eyes peeled for wallabes in the brush.) The food is local and amazing, and you'll want to smuggle the sheep's cheese in your mini-bar back home. When you manage to tear yourself away to explore the natural wonders throughout the island, SOL's knowledgeable guides (like Phil, the @Southern.Ranger) will tell you everything you need to know about the sea lions, kangaroos, koalas, and raptors who outnumber people down here.

Photos courtesy of Villa Tre Ville.

...CINEMA

Villa Tre Ville
Positano, Italy

What's to Love: If you've ever fantasized about dating — or being — Marcello Mastroianni, you can take dolce vita dreams to the next level by checking into the Amalfi Coast cliffside estate that was the home of legendary Italian director Franco Zeffirelli (yes, the one who did Romeo and Juliet, speaking of romance...). He spent decades restoring and designing the cliffside property so every striking detail is infused with drama, resulting in spaces that look like Italian and Moroccan stage sets and rooms named for pals like Maria Callas and characters like Tosca. Aperol spritzes appear out of nowhere, the swimming is fabulous, and the hotel's skiff will whisk you off to Da Adolfo for lunch or to Positano for a pizza at the drop of a hat.

Photos courtesy of Babylonstoren.

...THE SIMPLE LIFE

Babylonstoren
Simondium, South Africa

What’s to Love: If you’ve ever longed to turn back time to an era where people lived on farm estates and grew their own food, this is the spot for you. The charming 500-acre Cape Dutch farm is straight out of a magazine spread, with bountiful fruit orchards and vegetable patches, friendly farmhands in matching uniforms, and simple but elegant white-washed guest cottages. Upon arrival, a general feeling of peacefulness and well-being will descend. This is how life should be, you’ll think to yourself, and for a few days that is. You’ll be immersed in the world of a working – albeit highly stylized – farm, where mornings start with an epic breakfast spread of fresh produce, homemade breads, cheeses, and yogurts, and eggs from the resident free-roaming hens. A state-of-the-art winery, serene spa, two swimming pools, hiking trails, mountain bikes, and farm shop offer plenty to see and do, but it’s dinner at Babel, the estate’s award-winning restaurant, that will be most memorable.

Read More About It: Babylonstoren Is a Technicolor Salad

Photos courtesy of The Lowell.

...MANHATTAN

The Lowell
New York, New York

What's to Love: Evoking everything that's wonderful about old-school, discreet uptown, the intimate boutique hotel feels so timeless that it would be so easy to ignore Central Park and Museum Mile (mere steps away) and lose yourself inside. Start with cocktails at Jacques Bar, followed by a Mediterranean-infused French meal at Majorelle. Settle for a nightcap in the deep sofas in the Club Room, then wander upstairs, where the fireplace is roaring at the foot of your bed. Wake up, have room service on the terrace, and do the whole thing all over again.

Photos courtesy of Six Senses Yao Noi.

...GOING WILD

Six Senses Yao Noi
Phang Nga Bay, Thailand

What's to Love: If you want to stay in the jungle and live like Swiss Family Robinson meets Richard Branson, stay here. This place manages to combine the luxury of good bedding, good food and beverage, an all-day ice cream parlor, and a superlative spa with the mystery and authenticity of a Thai jungle. The materials are all natural (there is a huge focus on sustainability and local craftsmanship) and there's not a single piece of plastic in sight. Hop on a tuk tuk for a ride around the teeny island to see rubber plantations, rice paddies, a modest market, and the jade green sea, or take a boat out for a day to enjoy limestone cliffs and a warm dip. A bottle (or two) of the Six Senses local (yes, Thai wine!) rosé makes lunch that much more special.

Photos courtesy of Taylor River Lodge.

...YOUR KIDS

Taylor River Lodge
Crested Butte, Colorado

What's to Love: Open from late May through mid-October, the off-grid locale deep in Taylor Canyon is a woodsy wonderland perfect for families. There are private cabins with various set-ups — lofts, bunk beds, kitchens, and a teepee lounge. The all-inclusive rate includes not only food and drink (and an awesome mini bar), but activities like river rafting, axe-throwing, fly fishing, mountaineering, shooting BB guns (you'll shoot yer eye out, kid), and access to the beautiful pool cabin.

Photos courtesy of Singita.

... YOUR INNER BEAST

Singita Boulders Lodge
Sabi Sand Game Reserve, South Africa

What’s to Love: If it’s an adventure you’re after, look no further than this secluded twelve-suite lodge on a private concession adjacent to South Africa’s Kruger National Park. Set along the wildlife-rich banks of the Sand River, the impressive safari lodge offers some of the best service we’ve ever experienced in one of nature’s most primitive environments. Days revolve around early-morning and late-afternoon game drives with a personal safari guide and tracker. Your goal: spotting Africa’s Big Five (lions, elephants, buffalo, leopards, and rhinoceros), along with other native species like hippos, zebra, giraffes, impala, and the elusive wild dog. Both exhilarating and utterly relaxing, each excursion feels like its own journey with a surprise ending. Come afternoon, you’ll retire to your private suite, a tranquil standalone villa that looks like it was carved out of the earth: Stone walls and large glass windows make it difficult to tell where your room ends and nature begins. A private plunge pool and outdoor shower will tempt you to hole up in your suite, but the rest of the lodge, with its swimming pool, spa, fitness center, and boutique, is worth exploring. We’d be remiss to not mention the delicious food, which is overseen by award-winning chef Liam Tomlin, and the lodge’s extensive wine cellar.

Photos courtesy of Beaumanière.

...MICHELIN FEASTS

Baumanière
Lex Baux de Provence, France

What's to Love: A boutique hotel in the heart of picturesque Provence with luxurious surroundings — gardens, pools, and five distinct buildings with chic simple rooms — and one of the most wonderful restaurants anywhere. Sit outside in summer and savor fresh vegetables from their garden or sip Petrus in the 50,000-bottle wine cellar. Whatever the case, you need never leave this picturesque property. A weekend here feels completely restorative.

Read More on Fathom: Double the Fun Meets Double the Favor in Provence

Photos courtesy of Ill sereno.

Il Sereno
Lake Como, Italy

What's to Love: Set on the shores of Lake Como, this Patricia Urquoila-designed property is all stone and glass — elements that won't compete with the surrounding natural beauty. Rooms feature floor-to-ceiling windows and minimalist furnishings to maximize the views. The infinity pool is a thing of beauty, as is the hotel's fleet of classic boats that were handcrafted by local artisans and boat-making legend Daniele Riva and feature the old-school aesthetics of classic lake boats updated with Urquoila's chic fabrics and finishes.

Photos courtesy of Off the Map Travel.

...OUTER SPACE

Aurora in Bed
Tromso, Norway

What's to Love Is this a dream you're living? You're sleeping outdoors on a rooftop, cuddled under duvets, watching the Northern Lights stream and dance overhead. You've checking into the recently renovated Villa Telegrafbukta, which can sleep up to six, should you feel like sharing. If you haven't pulled all-nighters under the galaxy, you can spend days exploring fjords and islands. This is available only through travel Off the Map Travel from September through March, though December through March is the best time to see the Northern Lights.

Photos courtesy The Alpina Gstaad.

...A GREAT SPA

The Alpina Gstaad
Gstaad, Switzerland

What's to Love: Set in the Swiss Saanenland, the uber-chic boutique hotel has a traditional chalet vibe and is the height of farmhouse luxury. The sumptuous spa is all natural wood and stone — no gilt here! — and does everything from color therapy and salt treatments to Green Caviar Facials and killer couples massages in a cave room. This spa is so comprehensive — and so Zen — you'll feel reborn.

Contributors: Berit Baugher, Jeralyn Gerba, Stephanie March, Christina Ohly, Pavia Rosati.

Love Is in the Air

See Them All: The Most Romantic Hotels (by destination)
The World's Most Romantic Hotels 2018
The World's Most Romantic Hotels 2017
The World's Most Romantic Hotels 2016

A long weekend in Zürich with Daniel Humm

The chef behind Manhattan’s world-beating Eleven Madison Park talks his hometown’s finest – from church spires to scrumptious bratwurst – with Christina Ohly Evans.

When people think of Zürich, it’s often banks or high-end watches that come to mind, but really it’s a historic, intimate city with an incredible quality of life. What makes it so special – besides the surrounding nature and the fact that it’s so central in Europe – is the Swiss. They’re just good citizens, always polite and respectful of the rules. Most people here speak four languages – or two at a minimum – and travel extensively, which gives them a worldly perspective that I don’t always find elsewhere.

What’s also wonderful about Zürich is that it hasn’t changed: the medieval houses and the Fraumünster church in the old town, with its green steeple, have been left totally alone. These buildings were beautiful when built, and strict architectural codes mean they will remain that way forever. There have been enhancements over time, of course, and the infrastructure is just incredible: trains, trams and buses all run on time, and are all clean and safe – in fact, I don’t think there’s a better public transport system anywhere on earth. To illustrate the point, I took a recent trip on a Swiss train and it ran 12 minutes behind schedule; the conductor explained over the intercom that this delay was due to a problem on the French side, not theirs. The Swiss are never late.

St Peter Church at Christmas time

We are a small country surrounded by Germany, Austria, France and Italy, so there are many influences in terms of culture and food, but at the end of the day we are farmers and that’s reflected in our classic cuisine. You don’t come to Zürich so much for global cuisine, but for sausages and rösti – which have a real sense of place. I don’t want to eat sushi here. 

Visitors have a lot of choices when it comes to great hotels. The family-run Baur au Lac is one of my favourites; it’s a really traditional place, not flashy at all, with beautiful views of Lake Zürich and the Alps. It’s good if you need to access the financial district, or for shopping on the nearby Bahnhofstrasse. Its fine-dining restaurant, Pavillon, is in a sort of indoor garden; I always make a point of eating here because the chef is so talented. While the menu changes frequently, his food is always elevated but with a classic foundation.

Another great place to stay is the Widder Hotel in the old town. It’s made up of a series of medieval townhouses that have been cobbled together, and it strikes the balance between old and new perfectly. There are only 49 rooms here and each one is different from the others: some have views of the surrounding cobblestone streets and others have unexpected touches, such as an iconic Eames chair. Taken all together, it’s quite charming. The Storchen Zürich, right on the River Limmat, falls into this quaint category too. It has existed since the 14th century, and while the hotel was recently updated, its signature storks can still be found on the walls and the views of the church spires are fantastic.

Of course, food is central to any Zürich experience, so I like to start the day at John Baker. Yes, that is literally the name of the best bakery in Zürich: it’s co-owned by Jens Jung, an artisan who comes from a long line of bakers – he spent some time at the wonderful Tartine in San Francisco, where he learnt from the best, before coming back here to make breads according to Swiss traditions. Another win for breakfast is the café Confiserie Sprüngli. I particularly like the cakes, the colourful Luxemburgerli macaroons and the chocolate truffle-filled brioche. One of those with a morning cappuccino, is perfection.

The Limmat river flows through the old town

Konditorei culture is very important in Zürich life. Café Schober is a very cute, authentic spot that serves an excellent Gugelhupf, a traditional cake made with almonds and raisins, while Teuscher is the place to go for every imaginable type of chocolate – and a good coffee.

When it comes to restaurants, it’s best to approach things by type of cuisine. Kronenhalle is an institution and in addition to great (and authentically Swiss) food, you’re surrounded by masterpieces by the likes of Picasso and Rauschenberg – even the lights are by Alberto Giacometti. The bar here is an ideal place for a cocktail and beef tartare, before moving on to a dinner of sliced veal with rösti. The service is very old-school; I think it’s an absolute must.

Kronenhalle is a Zürich institution decorated with works by Picasso and Rauschenberg

For a truly Alpine feel, I like Obere Flühgasse in the old town. It’s really tiny, all done in warm woods – and the mixed salad with bacon, consommé and rösti feels very local. In winter, I always order vermicelles – a dessert made of chestnut purée that’s very specific to Switzerland. I had a magnificent steak frites at Wystube Isebähnli, a 25-seat bistro in the old town with a big focus on wines as well (the menu, created using seasonal produce, changes every week). The best food in town, however, is at the bratwurst restaurant Sternen Grill – every local knows this place. It’s great for a veal sausage with a beer, not to mention top people-watching – you’ll see people from all walks of life here.

Beyond the excellent food, this is a city of great churches and museums. The Grossmünster, with its windows by Sigmar Polke, is one of its monumental highlights. St Peter church – which can boast having Europe’s largest tower clock face – is another one to see, as is Fraumünster, which has those beautiful stained-glass windows created expressly for the church by Marc Chagall in the 1970s.

49-room Widder Hotel is made up of a series of medieval townhouses

Whenever I come back from New York, I stock up on things that can only be found here and think it’s a good way to shop. Among the first stops should be Schwarzenbach, purveyor of all kinds of teas, spices, vanilla, dried exotic fruits, nuts and jams. They’re very knowledgeable and I go there to learn. Buchbinderei, a tiny paper store in the old town, is exceptional for stationery and handmade cards. Another one that’s a definite must is the Odeon Apotheke, a gorgeous pharmacy and a good place to buy all kinds of Swiss skincare by super-local brands. 

For really motivated shoppers, the 40km drive to Vitra stockist Betz, in Schauffhausen, is totally worthwhile for the Jean Prouvé designs alone. There’s also the Markthalle under the old viaduct in Zürich-West – it’s kind of like London’s Borough Market meets Manhattan’s High Line – and there are all kinds of shops and food vendors tucked into the old arches. It’s fun to see how a formerly industrial part of Zürich has evolved into something very cool.

In terms of cultural institutions, it’s hard to beat either the Kunsthaus Zürich – with its permanent collection that includes works by Cy Twombly and Mark Rothko – or the Pavillon Le Corbusier. This is the last building the architect designed before he died, and it’s a mixture of glass, steel and colourful panels that contrast beautifully with the nature all around. For contemporary art, it’s Hauser & Wirth, set in a great, lofty warehouse space in a relatively unknown part of town, but always showcasing the greats of today.

Outdoor life is another big focus here. People hike, bike and swim in the Limmat river in summer. One of the best places to engage with nature like a local is Flussbad Oberer Letten, near Zürich-West. This is basically a public swimming pool with decking and places to eat, drink or just relax. To get a mix of art and nature, visit the Zürichhorn – a massive public park where you can walk along the shore of the lake and where you’ll find the humorous Heureka sculpture by Jean Tinguely. During the winter months you can travel just one hour from the city and you’ll be skiing.

Because Zürich is so international there are obviously lots of outside influences coming in, but my hope is that the city and its people will focus on the unique things it has to offer. The level of taste here, the overall aesthetic, is so on point, never overdone; you can see it in the work of such brilliant Swiss architects as Peter Zumthor and Herzog & de Meuron. And the cuisine! The cheeses, the yoghurt, the meats; they are really some of the finest in the world. The city should continue to celebrate them, instead of importing sushi. 

Meet Fathom Contributor Christina Ohly

Hometown: Currently NYC, but I consider London home as well. I was born in Washington, DC, but raised in Woodstock, Vermont.

Occupation: Writer and consultant.

Favorite destinations: Too many to mention. Italy: both city (Rome, Florence) and country (Umbria, Tuscany, Ischia, Amalfi anywhere); France: Paris, near St. Remy; Spain; Harbour Island, Bahamas; most of New England but particularly coastal Rhode Island; California, both south (I love LA) and north (SF, Santa Barbara, Napa).

Dying to visit: India, Mozambique, Argentina, Fogo Island, the Scottish Highlands, and Shanghai. Again, the list is endless.

Bizarre travel rituals: I pack so much food because you never know and I can't stand gross, processed foods. In my cold sack, you'll find fruit, vegetables, Wasa crackers, and cheese sticks. I've clearly been stuck on one tarmac too many. I also start packing (clothes, not food) many days in advance, then edit the bag at least three times leading up to the trip.

In-flight relaxation regime: Watching an entire season of something mindless (cooking shows, anything BBC, any of the Real Housewives) on my iPad on long-haul flights. I read stacks of magazines and newspapers — fashion and travel top the list, but I love it all, from international editions of Vogue to The FT to cheesy celeb weeklies and back issues of The New Yorker.

Always in carry-on: BlackBerry; disinfecting hand wipes; snacks (Zone bars, crackers, gum); Le Métier de Beauté lip gloss; hair ties; and a wallet with pictures of my kids, cash, and my lucky charm — a horseshoe pin given to me by my grandmother.

Concierge or DIY? DIY for most things, especially flights because I tend to change them and like dealing with airlines directly. I am happy to outsource restaurants to a hotel person, though OpenTable has changed the playing field.

See it all or take it easy? See it all. I am not so great at relaxing and I hate to miss a meal, a shop, an experience.

Drive or be driven? Both. I love taxis and taxi drivers, as they provide so much local color, history, and great food knowledge — though, of course, this is destination-specific.

Travel hero: My husband. He can get stuck in China, do weird back-to-back redeyes via L.A. and Dallas, and still remain cheerful. He doesn't get flustered, doesn't freak out about the weather, and is always kind. He just goes with the global travel flow.

Weirdest thing seen on travels: I've seen some seriously bad behavior on the NYC to Florida flight routes. It is amazing to see the screaming, yelling, and bad manners that people will throw at an unsuspecting flight attendant. But the weirdest/saddest was seeing a drug mule pulled off a plane. It was later explained to us that law enforcement can spot mules because they are so uncomfortable in Western clothing and are often wearing new shoes. The poor guy looked beyond terrified; it was all quite a circus.

Best hotel amenity: Packed lunches for the plane at Curtain Bluff, Antigua; wellies and mud gear at The Mayflower Inn and Spa, Washington, Connecticut; the freshest fruit plates at The Hotel Caruso, Ravello, Italy.

I dream about my meals at Zuma in London (I love their black miso cod and robata grill dishes) and The Polo Lounge in LA (chopped salads are divine). I even love a simple plate of lentils at NYC's Fairway Cafe or the best poppy seed bagels in the world at 72nd Street Bagels on the Upper West Side. It's a dive but totally delicious!

Everywhere I go I check out the food markets — from supermarkets to farmer's markets to bakeries, butchers, cheesemongers.

When I arrive in a new place, I learn the lay of the land by walking, eating in restaurants full of local color, and talking to taxi drivers.

I always bring home some article of clothing reminiscent of a country, a piece of jewelry, and a Christmas tree ornament or two for my family's tree. I always forget the fruit in my bag, which doesn't go over too well at customs these days.

If I never return to Russia, it'll be too soon because I almost starved to death there. I am a big consumer of fruit and vegetables and these were fairly tough to come by.

I travel for the local color. I love hearing people's stories, seeing their daily routines, and learning about their cultures.

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“Tokyo’s Trunk Hotel is like a chic LA friend’s house”

A cool Shibuya lunch spot with first-rate people-watching potential

I am definitely not edgy enough for Tokyo’s Trunk Hotel, a design-led boutique bolthole-cum-social spot in the subculture capital of Shibuya, but I loved it all the same. I came here for lunch on a local recommendation and was immediately taken with the space. Consisting of two discrete, four-storey structures in a proliferation of natural materials conceived by Mount Fuji Architects Studio, this laidback hotel offers a zen respite from the bustle of colourful manga cafés, Izakaya gastropubs and karaoke venues just beyond.  

Grilled meat skewers at Trunk Kushi restaurant | Image: Trunk Hotel

As I walked into the welcoming communal spaces and dining areas, Trunk struck me as being like a cool LA friend’s house, with a clientele of tastemakers from the worlds of fashion, design and technology adding to the ultra-hip vibe. I arrived early for lunch, so kicked back in the lounge to indulge in a spot of people-watching. The street fashion and overall diversity in the lobby space were completely fascinating; even if you just come for a drink, I highly recommend grabbing a spot on one of the leather-lined sofas and taking it all in. 

Trunk provides an alternative to Tokyo’s skyscraper hotels | Image: Trunk Hotel

Dishes from a seasonal set menu, from about £20, at Trunk Kitchen | Image: Trunk Hotel

It’s also well worth staying on for lunch or dinner, as the food is the real standout at Trunk. There are two restaurants, both of which I sampled during my brief visit. Traditional Shibuya soul food is the star of the show at Trunk Kushi, where local restaurateur Yuji Tani oversees the local speciality of grilled meat skewers, but it was Trunk Kitchen that won my heart. First, the setting overlooking the hotel’s serene terrace is stunning; second, its fusion menu really hits the spot. After a week of sushi and heavy tempura, the simply grilled fish with Edo vegetables, and a perfectly seared Wagyu burger – washed down with the hotel’s own-brand beer produced by Tokyo’s venerable Ishikawa Brewery – were exactly what I was craving. 

The Terrace Suite, from about £4,800 | Image: Trunk Hotel

I also took a quick tour of the hotel – from its modernist chapel to some of its 15 spacious rooms and suites. The sleek Terrace Suite (from about £4,800) with its sprawling patio is particularly appealing, but all the rooms, decked out in a neutral palette with plenty of glass and dark wood, offer a slice of Japanese serenity. This low-key alternative to the city’s abundant skyscraper hotels is without a doubt where I will be staying on my next trip to Tokyo.