Travel, Interviews1 Christina Ohly Evans Travel, Interviews1 Christina Ohly Evans

Tara Bernerd’s perfect weekend in Gstaad

The designer is known for elegantly masculine interiors, often with industrial finishes, for restaurants, private residences and hotels. Latest projects include the Kimpton Fitzroy London and Four Seasons Fort Lauderdale

“Getting up to the mountains is heaven, and Gstaad is as magical in the spring as it is in the winter, when the snow brings a blanket of glittering quiet.

Saturday mornings begin with a walk to the village where I get the newspapers before heading on to Charly’s coffee shop. It’s been there for years and the pastries are simply amazing, but I try to resist and go for a coffee and a “glow juice”, made by my friend Dianne.

I do a lot of walking and hiking. My husband Tommy and I like the long walk to Lauenen, where you follow a river trail through a fairytale forest. The views are never lost on me. Having worked up an appetite, we’ll head to the authentic, chalet-style Hotel Wildhorn which is renowned for its decadent rösti, the traditional Swiss potato dish that is prepared every imaginable way here. I prefer the version with ham and egg, but they’re all delicious.

Saturday afternoon means a massage at The Alpina hotel, where the spa is excellent. I am inspired by its understated design ethos in my own work – it makes use of rich natural materials such as Ringgenberg limestone and black onyx – and Antonis is a gifted therapist. He uses a mixture of reiki and rejuvenating therapeutic massage. From there I might pop in to see Kevin at the Palace, where the buzzy lobby lounge is perfection – for a blowdry before a night out with friends. If time allows, I’ll stop by Maison Lorenz Bach, a well-edited clothing store with everything from traditional Tyrol jackets to fantastic studded belts. And Marti Interiors is a tempting source of chalet accessories, such as horn candlesticks and felt baskets that are used as log holders.

One of the best spots on a Saturday night is at the Olden Hotel where Massimo, the maître d’, is fantastic and the bar has a warm, convivial feel. The restaurant here is just as seductive, so we’ll stay and have my favourite spaghettini sciué sciué, a spicy tomato pasta. 

On Sunday morning, I’ll get up early to meet Alex Jenzer, a dear friend and hiking guru who knows the surrounding mountains like no one else. The sheer number of trails, as well as the epic scenery, are mindblowing. For some culture, we’ll hike to one of the area’s art installations such as Doug Aitken’s glass house – an incredible structure made of mirrors. After all of this activity, Sunday lunch is a must, and so I’ll meet my sister and brother-in-law at the Sonnenhof. We’ll sit on the terrace whatever the weather, as the views are stunning. I rarely eat meat, but here they serve the steak, still sizzling, on a hot, black stone and it’s exceptionally good.

We’ll walk back through Saanen, where there are some super antiques stores that range from Swiss traditional to midcentury modern. Tommy has quite a sweet tooth so we’ll pop into Délice, a cake shop run by the talented Heidi Sigrist-Wehren. She made our wedding cake and is considered a true pâtisserie queen.

From there we’ll walk back along the river – usually with our dog, Rocky – before returning home to read the papers by an open fire. We’ll spend Sunday nights at Seize, a very cool restaurant serving excellent mussels and light fresh soups. As the weekend draws to a close, the ski gear and hiking boots are returned to their places, my suits are packed, and I feel ready to face the busy week ahead.”

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Marc Glimcher’s perfect weekend in New York

The art dealer and president of Pace Gallery, which represents artists including Mark Rothko and James Turrell, has recently overseen global expansion to a 10th location, in Hong Kong

The art dealer and president of Pace Gallery, which represents artists including Mark Rothko and James Turrell, has recently overseen global expansion to a 10th location, in Hong Kong

Marc Glimcher at the Whitney Museum of American Art in New York | Image: Ike Edeani

Marc Glimcher at the Whitney Museum of American Art in New York | Image: Ike Edeani

 

“My wife Fairfax and I begin Saturdays with matcha and meditation, then a bit of rounding – a yoga-like practice – before one of the healthiest breakfasts imaginable: scrambled eggs with parsley, and smoked salmon, sauerkraut and avocado. I spent the first 50 years of my life eating sugar, and the past three eating healthily, and I finally feel terrific.

My weekends are all about family and rejuvenation; they are the crowning achievement of the week. However, in the art world there is no division between your work and personal life, so art is always woven into Saturdays. 

Sometimes I’ll take out the Tesla and go and see artists such as Julian Schnabel downtown. Studio visits are a relaxing way to see artist-friends when I’m not trying to get to another appointment. But more often than not, our family of six – I have four kids from my previous marriage – will walk around the city, visiting museums. Our go-to is the Whitney, where we’ll see a show and have healthy salads at Untitled, Danny Meyer’s restaurant, before heading uptown to my all-time favourite institution, the American Museum of Natural History. I’m a geek, so this place, with its gems and relics, really appeals – and I force everyone to come, because it’s a masterclass in how to present ideas and images. Afterwards, we’ll head across the street to Gari Columbus for the best sushi on the Upper West Side. 

I like to stroll downtown and stop at the Astro Gallery of Gems – Fairfax and I are huge collectors of crystals of all kinds. Then it’s on to Books of Wonder for the kids, followed by the photography shop Adorama for the Leica cameras, my weakness. 

We all love ABC Carpet & Home for things we don’t need, from tarot cards to all manner of drinking glasses. If we time it right, we’ll go to ABCV, Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s new plant-based restaurant: the spinach spaghetti and roasted mushrooms are not to be missed. 

Our afternoon stops include Grimm Gallery on The Bowery and the David Zwirner and Hauser & Wirth galleries in Chelsea. We’re building a gallery on West 25th Street, so I’ll go by and check on the progress, then we’ll walk our Maltese, Matisse in Madison Square Park and return home for a little meditation before dinner. Saturday nights are either early – at I Sodi, where you have to go at 5.30pm to get a table because the pastas are so fantastic – or late, tequila-fuelled affairs at Cosme, where the Mexican chef makes excellent marinated cobia al pastor.

Fairfax’s meals are more elaborate than mine, so Sunday’s avocado toast comes with nettles and chillies. On these leisurely mornings, we watch CBS Sunday Morning for an upbeat start, followed by CNN for the bad news – and we never miss The New York Times.

I’ll go to the Equinox gym for a quick, intensive workout. I believe the trick to consistent exercise is to not have a trainer; it’s just another relationship that gets in the way. 

In the afternoon, we’ll make time for our family band – between us we play the guitar, the ukulele and the drums. Then we’ll head to EN, the Japanese brasserie, where I order the salmon rice and steamed gingko nuts for sharing, or to Il Buco in NoHo, where the intimate atmosphere and the sinful porchetta make for a cosy and delicious meal. 

The day winds down with The Leftovers, my current favourite TV programme. Then I pack my bags for Palo Alto, or London, or Seoul…”

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A long weekend in Philadelphia with Tory Burch

The fashion designer-philanthropist shares dazzling historic monuments, hidden art collections and a few serious foodie havens with Christina Ohly Evans

The fashion designer-philanthropist shares dazzling historic monuments, hidden art collections and a few serious foodie havens with Christina Ohly Evans

It used to be that Philadelphia was a very conservative city, and not so much a visiting one – but that has changed. There is now so much on offer: great food, designer hotels, farmers’ markets. And of course there’s so much rich history too; the Liberty Bell, Independence Hall, The Franklin Institute Science Museum and the Barnes Foundation are all here. Basically the city is the birthplace of our democracy, so regardless of a person’s political views, after last year’s presidential election it’s more relevant, and I’d say interesting, than ever.

I encourage friends to visit even just for the day, since Philadelphia is only a little over an hour by train from New York. But there are great hotels to choose from, many with unexpected, nice design or tech touches. The Rittenhouse overlooks Rittenhouse Square and has an always-elegant ambience, with large suites refurbished by Alexandra Champalimaud – the palette of bright colours against rich, dark walls is so chic, and there’s a lovely leafy central courtyard. Another boutique offering is the Roost Apartment Hotel, designed by Morris Adjmi – he also did the very cool Wythe Hotel, in Brooklyn – which has contemporary furnishings by Patricia Urquiola and Roll & Hill, among others. Rittenhouse 1715 is smaller and more traditional, in a Georgian-style carriage house from the early 1900s, and its rooms are airy and stylish. It’s just a three-storey building set on a very quiet residential street, so it feels like a nice escape.


An indoor display in the Exhibition Hall at Longwood Gardens | Image: Alamy

An indoor display in the Exhibition Hall at Longwood Gardens | Image: Alamy


So many neighbourhoods have come up over the past few years. One of the best to explore is Fairmount, where the Barnes Foundation is located. The Barnes is very near to my heart; the collections of post-impressionist and modern paintings, as well as Native American ceramics, textiles and jewellery, are among the finest in the world. The new building was designed by Tod Williams and Billie Tsien, and it respects the history of founder Albert Barnes’ original museum vision, but puts the art centre stage in light-filled gallery spaces. And the Barnes Foundation Arboretum, in suburban Merion, is well worth a visit for the beautiful gardens full of rare plants and trees. The monkey puzzle tree in particular is extraordinary – all twisted limbs and thorny leaves.

Fairmount is home to other world-class museums as well. There’s the Philadelphia Museum of Art, and the Rodin Museum – the latter has one of the largest collections of the artist’s work outside Paris. But a lesser‑known gem is the Fabric Workshop and Museum, with incredible contemporary art by Louise Bourgeois, Anish Kapoor and Carrie Mae Weems, among so many others, and it offers a programme of performance art and workshops for all ages.

The Fishtown neighbourhood is another must; this formerly dodgy area is now the Williamsburg of Philly, and it’s perfect for wandering. You can pick up a coffee from La Colombe, one of the city’s best roasters, before visiting the indie, old-school Philadelphia Record Exchange for any kind of music you can possibly think of. Pizzeria Beddia is a real Fishtown highlight; it has been deemed the best pizza in America by Bon Appétit magazine. Joe Beddia makes just 40 “pies” a day, and there’s no place to sit, so you have to get there very early to get served. The pizza arrabbiata is unbelievable. Once you’re fed, Jinxed Philadelphia is an incredible variety store where almost all the pieces are unique – everything from shiny metal housewares to vintage cameras to antique maps.Another Fishtown draw is Kensington Quarters, an industrial warehouse with a popular great meat-centric restaurant and butchery classes, and Little Baby’s Ice Cream, where the weird but interesting flavours – Cucumber Dill, Chocolate Salt Malt – are all delicious. 

No trip to Philly is complete without one of the city’s famous cheese steaks. This local delicacy is the subject of debate; some people like Jim’s Steaks, some like Pat’s King of Steaks. I’ll take either, but the whole cheese steak thing is an experience, so load up with hot peppers and just enjoy. At the sprawling Reading Terminal Market, a historic farmers’ market that opened in 1892, you can find everything from traditional pretzels, made by the Amish, to beautiful, freshly cut flowers. 


An all-American experience awaits in the Fishtown district with its shops, restaurants and bars | Image: Alamy

An all-American experience awaits in the Fishtown district with its shops, restaurants and bars | Image: Alamy


Philadelphia is, of course, known for its place in US history, and Independence Hall, which was where the Declaration of Independence was signed, is a must. The Liberty Bell – cast in London and brought to the US, where it immediately cracked – is another. Benjamin Franklin is buried at Christ Church, and people throw pennies at his grave – a symbol of good luck and a nod to his “a penny saved is a penny earned” saying – though this ritual has caused some damage over time, so it’s a little bit frowned upon now.

Sporting life is a big part of Philadelphia, and Boathouse Row on the Schuylkill River is a beautiful place to watch the rowers passing by, while there are all sorts of seasonal events on offer – the Radnor Hunt, the Dad Vail Regatta and the Philadelphia Marathon – that draw crowds from all over the world. As a child, I often went to watch the Phillies baseball and Eagles football games with my brothers, and at these events you’re always assured of an enthusiastic crowd. 


Jim’s Steaks serves up the city’s famous cheese steaks

Jim’s Steaks serves up the city’s famous cheese steaks


The Old City area is full of quaint Federal and Georgian-style buildings, so a stroll here is well worth it for the architecture alone. But shoppers won’t be disappointed with the excellent vintage shops and indie boutiques along North Third Street, where Vagabond is one of the best for clothing by emerging designers – look out for Ajaie Alaie and UZINC, from Brooklyn – and also unique decorative things for the home. There is also Antique Row on Pine Street for a mix of old and new stores, galleries and cafés.

There are all sorts of treasures outside the city as well, not least some world-class gardens. I’d highly recommend a trip to Longwood Gardens, which are beautiful year round, but especially during the holidays. One of the largest parks in Philadelphia, Fairmount, is on the outskirts of town; it has hiking and biking trails, as well as a Japanese house and garden, called Shofusu, that is spectacularly lovely. If you go here, plan for a Sunday brunch at the Valley Green Inn, where the French toast is legendary. 


The Rittenhouse is a luxury boutique hotel in the heart of the city

The Rittenhouse is a luxury boutique hotel in the heart of the city


Philadelphia’s Main Line – the western suburbs that were built along the main line of the Pennsylvania Railroad – is no longer a series of sleepy communities; some of the most exciting restaurants and shops are here. B2 Bluefin Sushi, in Bala Cynwyd, is one of the best sushi restaurants I’ve eaten at anywhere; and the very chic boutique Kirna Zabête is a great addition to Bryn Mawr. This offshoot of the popular New York store of the same name is fantastic for fashion finds, from Loewe to Proenza Schouler. 

There is no bad time of year to visit Philadelphia, though I prefer the city in the spring and autumn when the gardens are in bloom, and it isn’t so hot and humid. The Fringe Festival in September is an annual highlight – a citywide celebration of art, dance and theatre. For visitors in July, the fireworks over the Philadelphia Museum of Art offer a real dose of Americana. Regardless of the season, there is really something for everyone. I love that Philadelphia has become more accessible and more diverse, and that the food scene is world-class – but that it still feels like home.

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Minding Moncler

How Remo Ruffini got the fashion world to escape its doubts and embrace the puff.

How Remo Ruffini got the fashion world to escape its doubts and embrace the puff.

Remo Ruffini is the consummate Italian outdoorsman. He’s more at home on the piste—or at the helm of a sailboat—than in the front row at a fashion show. He leads Moncler, his Milan-based luxury outerwear company, with a similar attitude. He’s exactly what the storied French brand needed.

Despite an illustrious history dating back to 1952, when René Ramillon founded Moncler in the town of Monestier-de-Clermont, in southern France, the company had begun to falter in the ’90s. Squeezed by high fashion outerwear offerings from Prada Sport and Gucci, as well as by more mainstream outfits like The North Face and Patagonia, Moncler struggled to find its niche, and in 2003 saw profits of just $62 million. Enter Ruffini, who brought with him a new sense of urgency and excitement. By 2016, the brand was raking in more than $685 million in revenue.

In part, Moncler’s comeback can be attributed to Ruffini’s push for diversity of aesthetic; not relying on one single vision allows the brand to speak to a wider demographic. Not only are there multiple lines that appeal to twenty-something, hard-core skiers as well as an older couture crowd, there is also a rotating roster of creative talent behind them that keeps the brand fresh and each season’s offerings unexpected. Moncler has expanded to include multiple collections including the classic sportswear line Grenoble; Gamme Rouge by Giambattista Valli; Gamme Bleu by Thom Browne; and Longue Saison, Moncler’s entry into the competitive marketplace for lightweight, season-less jackets. In addition to the ongoing design talents of Valli and Browne, as well as Virgil Abloh, Ruffini has enlisted pop stars like Pharrell Williams to create everything from limited-edition puffy parkas to eyewear and expanding accessory offerings. Ruffini delights in the design talent that he helps identify each season, and believes that constant creativity is key to the brand’s continued success.

Surface recently spoke with Ruffini on topics including his love of a preppy New England aesthetic, Japan’s affection for good backpacks, and global warming. It’s these varied fragments, sprung from Ruffini’s mind, that promise to shape Moncler in the years ahead.

You grew up in the textile industry. How does your background inform your work now?

I was raised in Como, near the Swiss border, and was always surrounded by the textile industry. My grandfather and my parents were both involved with fabrics and the clothing business, so production, runway shows, and marketing were always topics of discussion at home. When my father moved his company, Nik Nik, to the U.S. in the ’70s, I followed him there. But my story—from a design and quality standpoint—was always Italian.

What first attracted you to the ski jacket, and to Moncler specifically?

Skiing was always my passion, and Moncler jackets were popular when I was about 14 or 15 years old. When I was a kid, I traveled to school on the back of a scooter in the freezing cold, so a Moncler jacket was not only fashionable, it was also very practical. Later, in the ’80s in Milan, the paninari—a group of rebel Milanese teens—started wearing colorful, graffitied Moncler puffers, and they became very cool. The brand went into decline in the ’90s, but when I saw that it was for sale in 2002, I was very excited because it had been a part of my life forever.

I’ve read that you were inspired by American prep from your time spent in New England in your college years. What did you take back to Milan?

I briefly went to Boston, and while I didn’t end up studying, I instantly liked the attitude and the understated, classic style I saw there. Martha’s Vineyard, Nantucket, and Hyannis Port were all inspirational; the relaxed sensibility resonated with me. I liked the look of chinos, button-down Oxford shirts, and all of the traditional clothes. Instead of going to college, I returned to Italy and founded the New England Company when I was 21. It fused a Brooks Brothers and Ivy League look with Italian tailoring and details—including a trimmer fit.

Is there a city with particularly interesting street style now?

The style in northern Europe—Stockholm and Copenhagen, in particular—where it’s cold, and the attitude is very sporty, are both very interesting. The way they dress and how they use bright colors is very different than in Milan or New York.

You’ve done interesting collaborations with everyone from Pharrell to Junya Watanabe to Erdem. How were they chosen, and what have they added to your brand?

Pharrell is not a classic clothing designer, but someone from the music world, so it made for a totally different, very interesting collaboration. The ones we did with Japanese designers have been a highlight as well. I love Japanese style and we’ve worked with designers including Chitose Abe and Sacai from 2010 to 2013, Junya Watanabe in 2004, and Visvim, who understood our DNA particularly well. The Japanese always start from the original, from the basics of our brand, but then add incredible twists.

How did Moncler O, the latest collaboration with Virgil Abloh and Off-White, come about? 

Virgil is a creative director and DJ, but he has incredible energy. Using oversized logos and designs inspired by North Sea fishermen, as well as our technology, he married streetwear with skiwear and it was very successful.

Who do you think does fashionable skiwear or outerwear really well?

One of the best companies is the small Swiss skiwear brand Kjus. They do a great job with lightweight, technical jackets, and the quality is excellent. This is one of my preferred companies. Prada Sport was an interesting concept, too.

Tell me about your theatrical New York and Milan Fashion Week presentations.

We never wanted to do a classic catwalk show in New York. We put on spectacular performances that also showcase the technical side of our products. This year’s show was an icy, winter festival. In Milan, for example, Thom Browne for Gamme Rouge has played with the idea of the great outdoors—right down to the tents and sleeping bags.

About your production process, why did you move it from Madagascar to the Veneto region when you acquired the company in 2002?

When I bought Moncler, they were purchasing finished garments from the Far East and the Middle East, but I wanted to control the production and quality 100 percent.  That means we now buy all of the raw materials: the down, the specially designed nylon, the zippers, and the accessories. I’ve structured the company around this process. We cut everything ourselves and oversee the stitching and assembly at our facilities in Piecenza, before the finished pieces are delivered around the world.

How do you see the future of Moncler?

I want to continue keeping to our roots, and to focus on jackets. We don’t have to make everything, we just have to make our products the best. I think the strategy is more or less there, but we will always improve upon what we already have on the table.

What keeps you moving?

I’m inspired by my life: from skiing in St. Moritz, to sailing in the Mediterranean, to spending time with my family. The biggest inspirations, however, are the people in the streets, and people in the mountains. In a mountain village people tend to dress in strange ways because they are on vacation—they try different things because they are more concerned with comfort and functionality. My job is to travel the world to see what normal people love.

And what about non-normal people? Drake, for instance, wears a Moncler jacket in the “Hotline Bling” video.

Celebrities use our jackets for music videos or in life, but we often don’t know about it in advance. I had no idea, for example, about Drake—my friend called to let me know. It’s great advertising.

On the sales side, how does the international marketplace affect your business?

The world is obviously very volatile now. The U.K. market, for example, was quite depressed, but post-Brexit it is very successful. The British pound lost power, and the U.K. attracts customers from Asia and the U.S., so it has become one of our strongest performing markets. Japan is the opposite; the Yen became strong, so Asian tourists are going elsewhere. This is especially true in Tokyo and Ginza—it has been very difficult for us. The best region is still Europe—the U.K., France, Italy—and for anyone in the luxury market, Asia is quite successful now as well. Russia, however, has softened quite a bit over the last two or three years.

Do you ever think about global warming?  In the outerwear business—and as an avid skier—weather must be everything.

We are making jackets that can be used year-round. I am always interested in global weather patterns, especially in colder climates. Our business is winter.







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Missoni's Hands-Off Fashion Executive

CEO Emilio Carbonera Giani sees positive long-term results thanks to a laissez-faire approach.

CEO Emilio Carbonera Giani sees positive long-term results thanks to a laissez-faire approach.

You’ve spent your career in fashion—at Valentino, Salvatore Ferragamo, and the menswear brand Caruso. What has been your path?

I started in banking and then moved into textiles, which led me to the Marzotto Group, the then-owner of Valentino. From there I went on to Ferragamo, where I worked with my mentor, [former CEO] Michele Norsa. Caruso was completely different because it’s a very small company and focused exclusively on bespoke suiting. The common thread throughout my work has been that in Italy, most of the luxury fashion brands are family-owned. Working with families has major advantages: They tend to make decisions with a longer-term view, rather than being focused on short-term results or dealing with shareholders.

You’ve been COO of Missoni since 2015. What have been the biggest changes under your tenure?

I have focused on e-commerce—an important area for us—as well as next steps for merchandising. In two or three years I hope we’ll be able to add accessories like small bags and leather goods.

Where are the next big markets for Missoni?

China—and there are opportunities in India, but not in the short term. The luxury market is still very small there, and while there are many affluent people, it is just starting to grow for us. The U.S. is a traditionally strong market, so we’ll keep that up while focusing on the Far East—Thailand and Vietnam—and South America.

How would you describe your management style? 

I tend to be very practical: direct and to the point, sometimes too much so. I don’t micromanage. Our offices are set in Varese, in the countryside, and most of the staff lives in and around this area, and the office culture reflects that.

Missoni has an interesting strategy around monobrand boutiques vs. multi-brand stores. How do you select where to sell and why?

We’re a small company and can’t open thousands of stand-alone boutiques—we currently have nine—and the look of the collection works well for multi-brand stores, like Shin Kong Place in Beijing. Major department stores are our biggest point of sale. In terms of stand-alone stores, Paris is our most successful, despite the difficult times there, followed by Rome, Milan, and New York.

Who is your core customer? 

Americans, Germans, the British, and Middle Eastern clients are all very important, and Italians make up 10 percent of our sales. Our customer appreciates our creative process: We dye the yarn, weave the fabrics, and create the color pattern combinations. Our things are artisanal from the start through to the finished product, and this isn’t common in most fashion houses.

What is next for Missoni?

We’ll continue to develop [our less-expensive line] M Missoni, which is very important to the overall business and to our licensees. There aren’t any near-term collaborations like we did with Target, but we’ll continue to partner with other companies that are the top in their category. We’ve had recent successful partnerships with Converse and Havaianas, and we’ll continue to do more of these. On the residential side, we’re doing the Missoni Baia residences in Miami with developer Vladislav Doronin. This project allows us to offer a full image of Missoni to the world. We’ve done previous hotel projects—in Kuwait and Edinburgh, Scotland—and we weren’t particularly happy with them, so now we select partners very carefully and only link our name to super first-class properties.

What is luxury now? 

It’s something very personal. Something you can’t find everywhere. Luxury is scarcity.


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Bobbi Brown Makes It Look Easy

After 25 years in the industry, cosmetics titan Bobbi Brown continues to espouse natural beauty.

After 25 years in the industry, cosmetics titan Bobbi Brown continues to espouse natural beauty.

The name Bobbi Brown is synonymous with effortless beauty. Since she founded her eponymous brand in 1991 with $10,000 and a single nude shade of lipstick, the celebrity makeup artist has sought to empower women to look and feel their best. She must have been doing something right, because four years later the company was acquired by beauty behemoth Estée Lauder for an undisclosed sum, making Bobbi Brown Cosmetics an international powerhouse.

Brown is warm and wickedly funny, and her holistic approach to beauty appeals to women of all ages and ethnicities—throughout more than 70 countries, and in 100 brick-and-mortar stores around the globe. This wide-ranging popularity has led to sales figures that, by some estimates, account for 10 percent of all Estée Lauder revenues.

What began as a reaction to the artificial, excessive, overly contoured makeup that was so popular in the 1980s—think Cyndi Lauper, Madonna, and Debbie Harry with bright red lips, heavy eye shadows, and impasto blush—Bobbi Brown grew quickly from 10 lipsticks to a cosmetics empire that includes products like Foundation Sticks, Creamy Concealer Kits, Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner, and Shimmer Bricks. The brand has expanded from makeup and skin care to include fragrances, as well as a range of nail polishes, brushes and tools, and most recently, eyewear. The through line for all of Brown’s products is that they are designed to enhance—rather than to hide—a woman’s best features, and all are conceived with time, efficiency, and ease of use in mind.

Brown’s achievements aren’t limited to the visage: She is the recipient of numerous awards, a bestselling author, and was appointed by President Obama to the Advisory Committee for Trade Policy and Negotiations, the United States government’s senior trade advisory panel.

A visit to Bobbi Brown’s SoHo headquarters paints a clear picture of the brand’s success: It is a loft-like, airy environment where people freely share ideas and where you’re likely to see a dog or a child. Brown sat down with Surface to discuss 25 years of makeup and her other pursuits.

What was your path to the realm of makeup?

I have always loved it; the way it can make you feel instantly prettier, more tanned, glowing. I never loved school and I even considered dropping out at one point. My mom asked me, “If you could do anything, what would it be?” to which I responded, “I’d like to go to Marshall Field’s and play with makeup.” She encouraged me to follow my passion and study theatrical makeup, so I found my way to Emerson College in Boston, where they allowed me to design my own major. This was the first time in my life that I was surrounded by like-minded, creative people who were just passionate about whatever they were doing. It was there that I learned that what you put in is what you get out—this is also known as entrepreneurship.

What was the makeup world like in New York when you were starting out?

I moved to New York in the ’80s and everyone was into contouring, pale skin, and artificial everything, including fuchsia lipsticks and electric blue eye shadow. I was doing shoots featuring models with natural, beautiful, evenly toned skin and I was the only one doing it at the time. This look appealed to photographers like Bruce Weber and Arthur Elgort, who preferred a healthier look. I also worked with photographers like Steven Klein who opted for a more severe look, but this just wasn’t in my comfort zone. I did a Vogue cover with Tatjana Patitz where she appeared strong, but clean and fresh, and this was a breakthrough moment for me.

Are there other breakthrough moments that stand out?

I’ll never forget my first Vogue cover shoot in 1987. It was with Naomi Campbell and Patrick Demarchelier, on a beach at daybreak, and it changed my career. I went on to work with Walter Chin, Victor Skrebneski, and Horst P. Horst, to name but a few.

Tell me about the brand’s beginnings?

It all started with a nude lipstick. Everything on the market at the time was dry or greasy or smelly, so I asked a chemist who I’d met at Kiehl’s to formulate a lipstick for me using a combination of a taupe eye pencil, a pinkish-blue blush, and lip balm. I wanted a lipstick that looked like lips. From that first lipstick, I went on to create 10 Bobbi Brown Essentials: a targeted, edited collection of the most beautiful lip colors that included Salmon, Beige, Raisin, Brown, Rise, Pink, Orange, Blackberry, Burnt Red, and Red.

It’s astounding that you can rattle those colors off from memory? Where and how did the brand launch?

Initially, my husband, Steven Plofker, and I had two partners, Rosalind and John Landis. We joined forces and launched this brand in 1991, all while keeping our day jobs. Shortly thereafter I met the beauty buyer for Bergdorf Goodman at a cocktail party, and I pitched her then and there. Bergdorf’s took our product, and we thought we’d sell 100 lipsticks in the first month—but we sold 100 on the first day. This led to the launch of lip pencils, eye pencils, eye shadow, and so on.

How did the sale to Estée Lauder Companies come about?

When the brand was four years old, Frédéric Fekkai called me and said “Leonard Lauder wants to meet you.” I said yes, of course, although we weren’t interested in selling the company. I went to a dinner at Leonard and Evelyn’s house. I remember the night well because we sat outside overlooking the park, eating grilled fish, steamed broccoli, and brown rice, with the philharmonic playing in the distance. He had done his research and knew that I loved healthy food and good wine, so this won me over right away. He said that I reminded him of his mother when she started her business, and also that we were beating them in all the stores, so they wanted to buy us. He knew that being a wife and a mother was incredibly important to me, and he assured me that I’d have complete autonomy and the ability to balance those big parts of my life. He has never wavered on this.

Speaking of work/life balance, you’re a pro. Teach me.

I learned balance from my husband, Steven. He chose to be a real estate developer so that he could be home at night and have dinner with his kids. We have always supported each other in our work and in our family life. A perfect example of this was early in my career, when I was booked to do a cover shoot with Nikki Taylor in Florida. It was during the kids’ school vacation, and so Steven offered to fly down with them, but someone got an ear infection and couldn’t get on the plane. Instead he took the overnight train so that we could all be together. For both of us, family has always come first, and when I am with them I try to be completely present.

I’d like to think we could all have that kind of discipline. Has this sacred balance led to any missed opportunities?

There were moments early in my career that tested my priorities. When Bruce Weber asked me to do a three-week shoot for Ralph Lauren in Tahiti and I passed, or when I opted to skip a dinner with Francesco Scavullo and Jean-Paul Gaultier in favor of meeting my husband and young son, Dylan, for a planned dinner in SoHo. In these cases, however, when one door closed, another one opened and led to a new product line or an idea for a book.

For a brief time the company was located at Estée Lauder’s Midtown Manhattan offices. Now you’re in SoHo. Why?

Post-acquisition, our sales flattened. I told the CEO at the time that I felt stuck in an uncreative box and that I wanted to move downtown, and have an open-plan work environment, with music, a healthy kitchen, and people wearing jeans. I need to be able to open the windows. They supported me wholeheartedly and our sales went back up.

Just like that? Wow. Let’s talk about advice. What’s the best nugget you’ve ever received in business?

Leonard Lauder told me, “Never ask for permission; ask for forgiveness” and this is how I operate. Mickey Drexler of J. Crew is another role model, and he always says “Just keep doing what you think you should be doing,” instead of focusing on other people or fleeting trends.

Now you. What beauty advice can you offer me?

Healthy looks beautiful, and it comes from the inside. Eating well, getting enough sleep, wearing sunscreen, drinking water, and exercising are all important. Use moisturizer, as it’s the fountain of youth, and resist doing things like seeing the dermatologist too much when you’re having a down moment. At difficult times, put your hair up and don’t look in the mirror—this is when mistakes are made. Also, choose to look your age, and don’t try to erase all of the lines and imperfections.

OK, let’s pivot into broad strokes. What are the best things about your success?

I’ve been exposed to so many incredible things: I’ve seen the world, and I get to help so many different kinds of women feel better about themselves. Then there are the perks: I’ve been to a state dinner at the White House, I’ve danced with [rapper] Flo Rida, spent time with Mick Jagger, I’ve traveled with my family all over the world. I also get to be surrounded by an incredible team at work, and my life is better and fuller because of them.

The company has been around for 25 years now. Is this a major milestone for you?

When I started my business I never imagined that it would grow to be what it is today, and I’m proud that our brand philosophy remains the same as it was 25 years ago. Our products are driven by the needs of our consumers, and we are committed to empowering women. I plan to continue to develop effective products that meet the needs of all different kinds of women.

Are you going to celebrate?

Yes, we are celebrating the brand’s original mission with the launch of our “Be Who You Are” campaign that highlights the individuality of women across different ages and ethnicities and celebrates my lifelong beauty secret: to be who you are. We’ve had so many great moments, but what really stands out to me are the countless women I’ve met over the years who have inspired me with their stories. Beyond makeup, we’ve talked about life-altering events; everything from the joy of being a new mom to dealing with homelessness and divorce.

Now let’s try a little Proust questionnaire. What does the future of beauty look like?

I think it will be a combination of health and wellness—and it will be about beauty from the inside. There will be an emphasis on foods that boost health, and help nourish the skin and nails. I think you’ll see makeup that gives a natural glow—gel bronzers, cream blush—that’s very sheer, light, and clean. A glowing look versus a more matte skin finish will be popular, and good moisturizer will be key.

What’s a little-known fact about you?

I got my Today show guest beauty editor gig—one that I did for 16 years—because I met Jeff Zucker’s grandmother at a party and we hit it off. She recommended me to him, and the rest is history.

Where do you like to spend your down time?

With my kids. Whether that’s in the mountains in Telluride, or on the beach in Bayhead, on the Jersey Shore, or at home in Montclair, I love spending time with my three boys, my husband, and my dog, Biggie.

If you weren’t in the beauty business, what would you like to be doing?

I’m a big believer in foods that heal and in eating things that come from the earth. If I weren’t running this business, I’d like to own wellness cafes and provide nutritional coaching. While I’m not a great cook, I love good food and think it’s tightly tied to beauty. I also love editorial work—I was the editor-in-chief of Yahoo Beauty—and would enjoy being involved in magazine publishing.

You’re a famously healthy, clean eater. What’s your kryptonite?

Casa Dragones tequila, followed by the occasional French fry off of a friend’s plate.


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Pilar Ordovas talks more personal taste

The Savile Row gallerist concludes her list of likes with her grandmother’s diamond ring, Michelangelo and a sculpture park in the Swiss Alps

The Savile Row gallerist concludes her list of likes with her grandmother’s diamond ring, Michelangelo and a sculpture park in the Swiss Alps

My style icon is my grandmother, Maruja, as she was always timeless and elegant. Cristóbal Balenciaga was her close friend and made many of her clothes, but it wasn’t so much what she wore as how she wore it. I also like the style of strong women like Bella Freud who are very individual and follow what they like rather than fashion trends.

The last meal that truly impressed me was at Saraghina in Brooklyn. I ate the best wood-fired pizza – one with roasted, spicy artichokes – that I’ve had outside Italy, as well as house-made cavatelli with crabmeat and simply roasted branzino. The cosy atmosphere made our group feel like we were at home and being very well looked after. I’m hoping to return for a meal in their beautiful back garden. 435 Halsey Street, New York, NY 11233 (+1718-574 0010; www.saraghinabrooklyn.com).

Pilar Ordovas’ grandmother Maruja on her wedding day | Image: Courtesy Pilar Ordovas

Pilar Ordovas’ grandmother Maruja on her wedding day | Image: Courtesy Pilar Ordovas


The sight that inspires me is the Mediterranean Sea, as it takes me right back to my childhood. I grew up diving with my father and looking at treasures in the sea – sponges, fish, Roman ruins – before I could swim properly. The sight of the clear water and the feel of it on my skin gives me so much energy and inspiration. My dream is to have a home on the water on the island of Menorca.

An indulgence I would never forgo is good Nespresso coffee. I like the purple Arpeggio capsules as they make very strong coffee that is perfect with frothed milk. I’m going on a health retreat at The Ashram in California soon, and it’s not the exercise regime or the not eating much that worry me, but the not drinking coffee.www.theashram.comwww.nespresso.com.

The best gift I’ve given recently was to my sister Paula. I framed a drawing – a self-portrait she did with her favourite doll, Robin – that she gave me many years ago. I bought a 16th-century gilded frame when I was working at Christie’s and had been waiting for a special occasion to present it to her.

And the best one I’ve received recently was a 1920s platinum and diamond ring given to me by my mother; it once belonged to my grandmother, Carmen. The ring was given to her for her 25th wedding anniversary, so it is very precious to me. I don’t wear very much jewellery, but my mother knew I would love this piece.

Pilar Ordovas’ 1920s platinum and diamond ring that once belonged to her grandmother Carmen | Image: Weston Wells

Pilar Ordovas’ 1920s platinum and diamond ring that once belonged to her grandmother Carmen | Image: Weston Wells


If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose Las Salesas in Madrid. It’s a very eclectic area and you can find everything, from my favourite flower shop, Margarita Se Llama Mi Amor, where they create the most unusual wildflower arrangements, to Pez and Mott – two stores full of clothes by emerging designers that you are unlikely to see elsewhere. After a bit of shopping, I love Dray Martina for a casual lunch of gazpacho and black cod bacalao, or Mamá Framboise for bocadillos and delicious, artisanal pastries. Dray Martina, Calle Argensola 7 (+3491-081 0056; www.draymartina.com). Mamá Framboise, Calle Fernando VI 23 (+3491-391 4364; www.mamaframboise.com). Margarita Se Llama Mi Amor, Calle Fernando VI 9 (+3491-310 0926; www.margaritasellamamiamor.wordpress.com). Mott, Calle del Barquillo 31 (+3491-308 1280). Pez, Calle de Regueros 15 (+3491-310 6677; www.pez-pez.es).

In my fridge you’ll always find vegetables that are in season, as well as kiwis, avocados and whole milk, which I buy at Daylesford Organic. If we have friends round, then I’ll have cheese on hand – Comté, Brie and organic Cheddar – from Paxton & Whitfield, as well as a rotating selection of wines that are chosen by my husband and voted on by our guests. The fridge is always full of bottled water as well. Daylesford Organic, 44B Pimlico Road, London SW1 (020-7881 8060; www.daylesford.com). Paxton & Whitfield, 93 Jermyn Street, London SW1 (020-7930 0259; www.paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk).


Mamá Framboise in Madrid

Mamá Framboise in Madrid


An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is the Engadin Valley in the eastern Swiss Alps, where I went to visit the sculpture park of the artist Not Vital. I arrived by train from Zurich and couldn’t take my eyes away from the mountainous scenery – it’s rugged, remote and spectacularly beautiful. This place is like an amusement park for grown-ups – one that includes sculptures hanging from trees and a Corten-steel platform that juts out from the mountainside – I had to overcome my fear of heights very quickly. I stayed at the boutique hotel GuardaVal in Scuol, which has an incredible gourmet restaurant with breathtaking views to match. GuardaVal, Vi 383, 7550 Scuol (+4181-861 0909; www.guardaval-scuol.ch). Not Vital Foundation,+4181-860 0837; www.fundaziun.notvital.ch.

And the best souvenir I’ve brought home is a set of simple, carved wooden boxes from our honeymoon in Essaouira, Morocco; they are made of thuya wood and still have a wonderful scent. I also cherish a beautiful eagle feather that a friend found for me on a walk we took together in upstate New York. I’m fascinated by feathers and this one from Mombaccus Mountain takes me right back to that trip.


Stage, 2011, by Not Vital at the Not dal Mot sculpture park, Switzerland | Image: Eric Gregory Powell/Not Vital Studio

Stage, 2011, by Not Vital at the Not dal Mot sculpture park, Switzerland | Image: Eric Gregory Powell/Not Vital Studio


The people I rely on for personal wellbeing include Richie Kyle at Third Space, who has been my trainer for years, and the various teachers at Danceworks who take me through the weekly dance classes that I can’t live without. Adrian Parkitny and Maxine Heale at Daniel Hersheson take care of everything to do with my hair. When I am in New York, Niv Zinder is my personal trainer and I love to go to Janet Sartin for refreshing facials. Danceworks, 16 Balderton Street, London W1 (020-7629 6183; www.danceworks.net). Daniel Hersheson, 45 Conduit Street, London W1 (020-7434 1747; www.hershesons.com). Janet Sartin, 875 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10022 (+1212-751 5858; www.sartin.com). Niv Zinder, www.nzfitness.net. Third Space, 67 Brewer Street, London W1 (020-7439 6333; www.thirdspace.london).

My favourite room in my house is my bedroom in my home in Battersea. The glass ceiling is retractable and in summer I go to sleep looking at the moon and stars. The room is very serene, with lots of white surfaces and a low bed with a wooden base that almost touches the floor. It is a very calming space.

The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Michelangelo. I particularly love his later drawings because you can see the artist’s thinking process. There are two images – Studies for the Libyan Sibyl and a small Sketch for a Seated Figure – that are part of the Unfinished show at the Met Breuer and that I would particularly love to own. www.metmuseum.org.

If I didn’t live in London and New York, the city I would live in is Los Angeles. I’ve always wanted to live by the sea and there is such a vibrant arts scene there. The Hammer, The Getty, Moca and The Broad are among my favourite museums and I’d love to be able to spend more time at all of them. The areas surrounding Venice, Santa Monica and Malibu remind me of the Mediterranean in terms of the light and atmosphere, and it was on a trip here several years ago that I discovered my love of running. LA has wonderful hotels, too, and I could happily live at Shutters on the Beach or at the Malibu Beach Inn, as they are directly on the water and have incredible views of the Pacific Ocean. For a classic with a lively scene, Chateau Marmont in Hollywood is hard to beat. It’s the combination of the sea, the sun and the energy that make this city so comfortable to be in. The Broad, 221 South Grand Avenue, Los Angeles (+1213-232 6200; www.thebroad.org). Chateau Marmont, 8221 Sunset Boulevard, Hollywood (+1323-656 1010; www.chateaumarmont.com). The Getty Center, 1200 Getty Center Drive, Los Angeles (+1310-440 7300; www.getty.edu). Hammer Museum, 10899 Wilshire Boulevard, Los Angeles (+1310-443 7000; www.hammer.ucla.edu). Malibu Beach Inn, 22878 Pacific Coast Highway, Malibu (+1310-651 7777; www.malibubeachinn.com). Moca, 250 South Grand Avenue, Los Angeles (+1213-626 6222; www.moca.org). Shutters on the Beach, 1 Pico Boulevard, Santa Monica (+1310-458 0030; www.shuttersonthebeach.com).

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be an Egyptologist. As a child, my father constantly told me stories about Indiana Jones and I later went on to study art history and archaeology because of his tales. I have always been interested in the adventurous aspect of this profession, as well as the elements of astrology, the architecture of the pyramids and the enigmatic pharaohs that were so much a part of ancient cultures.

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Pilar Ordovas talks personal taste

A former deputy chairman at Christie’s, Pilar Ordovas founded her Savile Row gallery in 2011, showing work by the likes of Francis Bacon and Lucian Freud

A former deputy chairman at Christie’s, Pilar Ordovas founded her Savile Row gallery in 2011, showing work by the likes of Francis Bacon and Lucian Freud

My personal style signifier is a men’s IWC Portofino watch given to me by my husband for my 40th birthday. It is minimal and beautiful, with a simple black face and black crocodile strap. Dresses in lightweight fabrics by Saint Laurent are my go-to pieces, usually paired with flats by Pretty Ballerinas that are ideal for running between galleries, museums and art fairs. From £3,250;www.iwc.com. From £109; www.prettyballerinas.co.uk. From £1,569; www.ysl.com.

Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò, about $65 for 50ml EDT | Image: Weston Wells

Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò, about $65 for 50ml EDT | Image: Weston Wells


The last thing I bought and loved was a sleek, black Tesla Model S. I used to drive a tiny G-Wiz, so this is a luxurious change. Not only does the car seem to fly, I can also drive greater distances in it and I now have room to take friends for day trips. I like that it’s electric and environmentally friendly, but I do have to plan my route carefully so that I can find charging stations along the way. From £58,300; www.teslamotors.com.

And the thing I’m eyeing next is a gorgeous Gustavian sofa for my bedroom in New York – sourced by my friend, Scandinavian art and antiques dealer Jill Dienst. This particular piece from the late 1800s is made of light-coloured wood and is upholstered in a very pale grey fabric. I gravitate towards simple, spare, unfussy pieces and imagine that I’ll spend hours reading on this sofa. Dienst + Dotter, 411 Lafayette Street, New York, NY 10003 (+1212-861 1200; www.dienstanddotter.com).


Ordovas’ IWC Portofino watch | Image: Weston Wells

Ordovas’ IWC Portofino watch | Image: Weston Wells


The books on my bedside table are Significant Others: Creativity and Intimate Partnership, an exploration of artist and writer couples such as Sonia and Robert Delaunay. Love in the Time of Cholera is always on my bedside table because I love magical realism and Gabriel García Márquez has the power to transport.


Significant Others, edited by Whitney Chadwick and Isabelle de Courtivron | Image: Weston Wells

Significant Others, edited by Whitney Chadwick and Isabelle de Courtivron | Image: Weston Wells


A recent “find” is Chisou, an intimate Japanese restaurant near my gallery in London. I like that this place is small, the service is very good and you don’t need to book in advance. I’ll often go to the sushi bar – by myself or with my husband – and order delicious salmon sashimi and the avocado and seaweed salads. The atmosphere is lovely at night as well. 4 Princes Street, London W1 (020-7629 3931; www.chisourestaurant.com).


A Book Like This by Angus and Julia Stone

A Book Like This by Angus and Julia Stone


An object I would never part with is a bright yellow coat that I bought at Zara many years ago. I am particularly fond of it because one of the photos I treasure most – a picture of me with Lucian Freud in his studio, taken by my friend David Dawson – shows me wearing this coat. It is very reminiscent of Courrèges in terms of style and is perfect for adding a pop of colour on a dreary day.


Ordovas and Lucian Freud, by David Dawson | Image: David Dawson/Private Collection/Bridgeman Images

Ordovas and Lucian Freud, by David Dawson | Image: David Dawson/Private Collection/Bridgeman Images


The beauty staples I’m never without are Janet Sartin Hydrating Lotion, for my face – perfect for me because it’s very effective on sensitive skin – and Armani’s Acqua di Giò, which I have been wearing for many years so it’s sort of my signature. It’s light and slightly floral – not at all overpowering. Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò, about $65 for 50ml EDT; www.armanibeauty.co.uk. Janet Sartin Hydrating Lotion, $62 for 1.75oz; www.sartin.com.

The last music I bought was an album called A Book Like This by Angus and Julia Stone. They’re an Australian brother-sister folk-pop duo and I can’t stop listening to their upbeat music and romantic love songs. www.angusandjuliastone.com.

The last thing I added to my wardrobe was a pair of black Louis Vuitton boots that my sister, fashion blogger Paula Ordovas, introduced me to. They are kind of like motorcycle boots – a bit edgy, but very comfortable. I am living in them at the moment – they look good worn with more feminine dresses. Similar from £1,010;www.louisvuitton.com.

My favourite website is Instagram.com because it’s so creative and visual and I follow museums and cultural institutions around the world – as well as my friends, of course. Tate.org.uk is a particularly good website, with original films featuring emerging and established artists. I rely on BBC.co.uk, FT.com and NYTimes.com for the news of the day.

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Phillip Lim talks personal taste: Part One

Phillip Lim’s womenswear combines street cool and tailored femininity, while his CFDA award-winning menswear exudes contemporary minimalism

Phillip Lim’s womenswear combines street cool and tailored femininity, while his CFDA award-winning menswear exudes contemporary minimalism

My personal style signifier is dressing in navy blue – whether that’s jeans, a jumpsuit or a tailored jacket – and I always have a scarf to hand. I like them for all seasons, in every fabric – wool, cashmere, silk and lighter linens; I collect them wherever I travel. I am a classicist at heart but always like to have an edge.

Lim’s brass Tibetan prayer bowl from a trip to the Himalayas | Image: Weston Wells

Lim’s brass Tibetan prayer bowl from a trip to the Himalayas | Image: Weston Wells


The last thing I bought and loved was a Santa Clara Pueblo vase from New Mexico. The beautiful redware pottery reminds me of the light on buildings in towns I visited there, like Santa Fe and Las Cruces.

And the thing I’m eyeing next is a Conoid bench [pictured] by American woodworker George Nakashima. I’m inspired by things that incorporate nature and show the hand of the artisan; this sculptural piece is a hefty plank of wood, the grain clearly visible, with a simple back and legs. It would look great in the living room of my loft. About $15,000; www.nakashimawoodworker.com.


Sound & Color by Alabama Shakes

Sound & Color by Alabama Shakes


The last music I downloaded was the Alabama Shakes album Sound & Color. It combines elements of jazz, blues and Southern rock into a totally modern sound. I equate them with someone like Amy Winehouse – a disrupter, a fresh voice on the contemporary music scene.

American black walnut Conoid bench by George Nakashima, about $15,000 | Image: George Nakashima Woodworker

American black walnut Conoid bench by George Nakashima, about $15,000 | Image: George Nakashima Woodworker


A recent “find” is a store called Cowboys and Indians in Albuquerque, New Mexico. It is filled with antique treasures, from Navajo rugs to Cherokee baskets and jewellery. I bought some beautiful 1930s Mexican silver and turquoise bracelets. 4000 Central Ave SE, Albuquerque, NM 87108 (+1505-255 4054; www.cowboysandindiansantiques.com).


Bronze A Muse, 1917, by Constantin Brâncusi | Image: © Bridgeman Images © ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2016

Bronze A Muse, 1917, by Constantin Brâncusi | Image: © Bridgeman Images © ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2016


The sight that inspires me is the Atlantic Ocean, as seen from the East End of Long Island. I call this stretch the “green velvet rage” because the combination of sand and rolling waves creates a particular colour. It clears my mind and fills me with gratitude.


Hermès Poivre Samarcande, £167 for 100ml EDT

Hermès Poivre Samarcande, £167 for 100ml EDT


The last meal that truly impressed me was a dinner en plein air at North Brooklyn Farms, a community green space in Williamsburg. The early fall night was magical and we ate with a view of the Manhattan skyline. The food was prepared by Williamsburg farm-to-table restaurant Marlow & Sons, and the burrata, poached bass with shaved fennel and peach-basil macaroons were very special. Everyone – even guests who have been all over the world and are hard to impress – was seduced by the meal’s simplicity. 320 Kent Ave, New York, NY 11249 (www.northbrooklynfarms.com).

The artists whose work I would collect if I could are Constantin Brâncus¸i – his sculptures often inform my designs – and Francis Bacon, whose work is classical yet savage, beautiful yet grotesque.

The best souvenir I’ve brought home is a brass Tibetan prayer bowl from when we shot our fall 2015 campaign in the Himalayas. It is traditionally used in monasteries to cleanse the atmosphere and makes a beautiful sound. It sits in my living room and reminds me of a trip that perfectly combined work and play.

The grooming staples I’m never without include Poivre Samarcande fragrance by Hermès, which I wear all the time; it is subtle yet distinctive, so I don’t smell like everyone else. I like the Eye and Lip Smoother from Australian skincare line Sodashi because it’s free from parabens and anything artificial, and Como Shambhala’s Invigorate Shampoo, which is very refreshing. Como Shambhala Invigorate Shampoo, £14 for 300ml; www.comoshambhala.com. Hermès Poivre Samarcande, £167 for 100ml EDT; www.hermes.com. Sodashi Eye and Lip Smoother, £90 for 30ml; www.sodashi.co.uk.

An indulgence I would never forgo is my triple black Porsche 911 Turbo. This is my fourth – I trade them in every three years – and I love to drive it out east at the weekend. It’s called Beyoncé.

My favourite websites are OliverGustav.com for this Danish designer’s made-to-order furniture; HavenShop.ca, a Canadian men’s streetwear site; TheEndofHistoryShop.blogspot.com for ceramics and gift ideas; and NYTimes.com for daily news.

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Phillip Lim talks personal taste: Part Two

The fashion designer rounds up his list of likes with spicy sauces, a thirst for Buddhist knowledge and rebooting in his steam shower

The fashion designer rounds up his list of likes with spicy sauces, a thirst for Buddhist knowledge and rebooting in his steam shower

My style icons are people who have confidence in their looks combined with a slight eccentricity, such as designers Stefano Pilati and Phoebe Philo. Fashion blogger Leandra Medine – aka Man Repeller – carries herself with great style and confidence as well. These three look true to themselves; they’re not trying too hard.

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Bhutan. This country is literally heaven on earth; it’s both geographically stunning and incredibly spiritual as it’s the last Buddhist kingdom. I stayed in a series of Aman Resorts and each one was individual and authentic. www.aman.com.

Image: Weston Wells

Image: Weston Wells


The last item I added to my wardrobe was a pair of suede hiking boots from my menswear line, for navigating the streets of New York in style throughout the seasons, and several handwoven scarves [second picture] embellished with tribal patterns that I picked up on a trip to Ethiopia.

In my fridge you’ll always find a variety of hot sauces – including Sriracha, Cholula and my mother’s very spicy, secret blend – which I use on vegetables and meat dishes; fresh fruit and veg; ginger for cooking; coconut water; and unpasteurised sake.

If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose SoHo in New York, where you can find everything in a tight radius. I love If for high-fashion labels you can no longer find easily elsewhere, and De Vera for rare objects and curiosities. Modernlink is great for Scandinavian furniture, while Double Knot is a wonderful shop full of vintage and one-of-a-kind carpets. The excellent local butcher, Japan Premium Beef, has the best cuts of meat. De Vera, 1 Crosby St (+1212-625 0838; www.deveraobjects.com). Double Knot, 13 White St (+212-966 9113; www.double-knot.com). If, 94 Grand St (+1212-334 4964; www.ifsohonewyork.com). Japan Premium Beef, 57 Great Jones St (+1212-260 2333). Modernlink, 35 Bond St (+1212-254 1300; www.modernlink.com).

The best gift I’ve given recently was a first birthday party for my godson. It was held at a children’s play centre called Kidville in Brooklyn and included a great group of people – both young and old. Turning one is a huge accomplishment and I was happy to celebrate with him. 808 Union St, Brooklyn, NY 11215 (+1718-569 2150; www.kidville.com/parkslope).


Image: Tadasu Yamamoto

Image: Tadasu Yamamoto


And the best one I’ve received recently was a brass bangle from my guide on a trip to Ethiopia. He belonged to the Amhara and I admired his stack of bracelets that jangled to make music. He took one off and presented it to me. It was such a personal and meaningful gesture.

An object I would never part with is a black naga stone given to me by the queen mother of Bhutan, Gyalyum Sangay Choden Wangchuck. I was introduced to her on a recent visit through a mutual friend and we had a very special connection. She insists I must have been Bhutanese in a past life and gave me this very special holy stone from her garden. It now sits in my bedroom at my home in SoHo.

Image: Divine Light Photography

Image: Divine Light Photography


My favourite room in my house is my steam shower. It’s a spare, simple space and the place I go to relax and reboot.

If I didn’t live in New York, the city I would live in is Tokyo, where each neighbourhood has a distinctive feel; it’s a city of both chaos and convenience. From Aoyama to Daikanyama to Omotesando, I love the original street style and the diversity of architecture, the great food, vintage shopping and excellent hotels such as the Park Hyatt. And I’d like to spend more time exploring Naoshima’s “art island” with its incredible museums, including the Benesse House Museum [third picture] and Ando Museum, and high-tech installations. The Japanese treat everyone with respect and they all possess a certain elegance. Ando Museum, 736-2 Naoshima, Kagawa (+8187-892 3754;www.benesse-artsite.jp/en). Benesse House Museum, Gotanji, Naoshima, Kagawa (+8187-892 3223; www.benesse-artsite.jp/en).Park Hyatt Tokyo, 3-7-1-2 Nishi Shinjuku, Shinjuku-Ku (+813-5322 1234; www.tokyo.park.hyatt.com).


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The people I rely on for personal grooming and wellbeing are Mark Bustos of Three Squares Studio [fourth picture] for my regular haircut – he’s a great stylist and gives haircuts to the homeless every Sunday, which I think says a lot about him; and my physio Dr Nina Figueroa of Base Physical Therapy, who keeps me aligned. Base Physical Therapy, 47 West 14th St, New York, NY 10011 (+1917-533 4535; www.basept.net). Three Squares Studio, 444 West 17th St, New York, NY 10011 (+1917-847 3384; www.threesquaresstudio.com).

The books on my bedside table include Creativity, Inc. [fifth picture] by Pixar president Ed Catmull, and Start Where You Are by Pema Chödrön, which is all about developing compassion towards others. I also have The Diamond Cutter – a book that fuses Tibetan Buddhism with practical business strategy. I love self-help books and acquiring knowledge.

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be a farmer with plenty of land to harvest and lots of sunshine. In an ideal world, I’d be a seaweed farmer in Thailand so I could be near the ocean as well.

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Benjamin Millepied talks personal taste: Part One

Dancer and choreographer Benjamin Millepied is the outgoing director of dance for the Paris Opera and the founder of artist collective LA Dance Project

Dancer and choreographer Benjamin Millepied is the outgoing director of dance for the Paris Opera and the founder of artist collective LA Dance Project


My personal style signifiers are Christophe Lemaire trousers and shirts by Acne – usually in dark colours; my clothes, even if fitted, have a sense of comfort and ease of movement. I tend to wear everything with a pair of black leather lace-ups by Feit: the craftsmanship is impeccable, they’re beautifully designed and they’re very minimal, which is in keeping with my overall style. From £130; www.acnestudios.com. From €540; www.feitdirect.com. From €355; www.lemaire.fr.


Frenchie To Go café in Paris

Frenchie To Go café in Paris


The best gift I’ve given recently was a first edition of Gertrude Stein’s What Are Masterpieces?. I love old books and think anything by Stein is interesting, but this particular edition is very special. I bought it at Shakespeare and Company, where shopping is always a wonderful experience. 37 Rue de la Bûcherie, 75005 Paris (+331 4325 4093;www.shakespeareandcompany.com).

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Iceland. The areas we visited were almost uninhabited and some of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been to. I loved the combination of natural landscape, pure air and absolute quiet. We stayed at the ION Luxury Adventure Hotel [pictured] in Selfoss, where the scenery and food were both outstanding. I’d love to go back and see the Northern Lights there next year. Nesjavellir vid Thingvallavatn 801 (+354‑482 3415; www.ioniceland.is).

Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery Concentrate, £36 for 50ml

Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery Concentrate, £36 for 50ml


And the best souvenirs I’ve brought home are six Bauhaus-style chairs from the depths of a flea market in Jaffa, Tel Aviv. This is the largest Bauhaus city in the world – many architects fled here during the second world war – and one of the chairs I found is from a traditional kibbutz. The others are made of a light-coloured wood and are quite angular. All six now feature prominently at our home in Paris.


The modernist Oliver House, Silver Lake, LA, designed by Rudolf Schindler

The modernist Oliver House, Silver Lake, LA, designed by Rudolf Schindler


A recent “find” is the incredible area around the Rue du Nil in the second arrondissement of Paris. You can source wonderful organic vegetables, cheeses and meats from Terroirs d’Avenir and enjoy Paris’s best Reuben sandwich from the café Frenchie To Go [pictured]. It’s all there on a single street. Frenchie To Go, 9 Rue du Nil, 75002 Paris (+331-4026 2343; www.frenchietogo.com). Terroirs d’Avenir, 6-8 Rue du Nil, 75002 Paris (+331-8170 9798; www.terroirs-avenir.fr).


Undefeated x Converse trainers

Undefeated x Converse trainers


The sight that inspires me is the light at around 5pm as it pierces the streets of LA. Whether I’m in Silver Lake or Koreatown, I love that you can see so many decades in one street’s architecture – from art deco to modernism – all bathed in this beautiful light.


The ION Luxury Adventure Hotel in Selfoss, Iceland

The ION Luxury Adventure Hotel in Selfoss, Iceland


The last music I listened to was James Blake’s latest songRadio Silence. I love his voice and the complexity of his rhythms.

An indulgence I would never forgo is a great steak. At Mario Batali’s Osteria Mozza in LA they do a truffle-crusted rib eye that is crazy, and the flat-iron steak at The Factory Kitchen is also outstanding. The Factory Kitchen, 1300 Factory Place, CA 90013 (+1213-996 6000; www.thefactorykitchen.com). Osteria Mozza, 6602 Melrose Avenue, CA 90038 (+1323-297 0100; www.osteriamozza.com).

The last items of clothing I added to my wardrobe include a pair of Japansee-style loose black cashmere trousers from a new clothing line I’m developing with Berluti; a Saint Laurent tailored overcoat; and sweatshirts, sweatpants and trainers [pictured] by Undefeated that I wear when I’m in LA. www.berluti.comwww.undefeated.comwww.ysl.com.

The grooming staples I’m never without are Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery Concentrate [pictured], a nighttime facial oil, and Christophe Robin’s Delicate Volumising shampoo and conditioner, which is very moisturising. Christophe Robin shampoo, £28 for 250ml; conditioner, £32 for 250ml; www.net-a-porter.com. Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery Concentrate, £36 for 50ml; www.kiehls.co.uk.

My favourite websites include Medium.com for excellent, forward-thinking articles, and Lefigaro.fr, Lemonde.fr and Nytimes.comfor news and opinion. Economist.com is great for world politics and business, and Theartnewspaper.com is my go-to for the latest about the visual arts.

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Benjamin Millepied talks personal taste: Part Two

The choreographer concludes his list of likes with the sartorial elegance of Jimmy Stewart, the passion of Anselm Kiefer and the cultural abundance of LA

The choreographer concludes his list of likes with the sartorial elegance of Jimmy Stewart, the passion of Anselm Kiefer and the cultural abundance of LA

My style icons are Jimmy Stewart and Fred Astaire, who wore clothes elegantly and carried themselves with a nonchalant confidence; American movie stars like these are rare today. And Alain Delon, because his style is never over-thought.

The best gift I’ve received recently is a photograph by Dutch artist Pim Van Os called Untitled (Light Abstraction). It’s a beautiful silver gelatin print from the 1950s and was a present from my wife [Natalie Portman].

Jimmy Stewart | Image: Getty Images

Jimmy Stewart | Image: Getty Images


The last thing I bought and loved was a really fitted elastic shirt by Acne. It has a very high neckline and is suitable for work but elegant enough to be worn to an evening performance at the ballet. www.acnestudios.com.

And the thing I’m eyeing next is a pair of black Berluti loafers [from £530]. They look traditional but they’re made of the finest, thinnest leather so they feel almost like a ballet shoe. They’ll work well with everything from loose-fitting cashmere trousers to a suit. www.berluti.com.

The last meal that truly impressed me was at Septime in Paris’s 11th arrondissement. It’s industrial yet slightly rustic and has an imaginative menu and combinations of ingredients. I love vegetables and a recent beautifully minimalist supper included white asparagus, mountain spinach and steamed cod, all paired with natural wines. 80 Rue de Charonne, 75011 Paris(+331-4367 3829; www.septime-charonne.fr)

The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Anselm Kiefer. There is such great depth and passion in his brushwork, and I particularly love his very large paintings of flower fields that seem inspired by Van Gogh. His aquarelles are beautiful too, and I’ve been lucky enough to visit his studio and see him at work; it was an unforgettable experience.


Septime restaurant in Paris | Image: François Flohic

Septime restaurant in Paris | Image: François Flohic


The people I rely on for personal grooming are Philippe at the Christophe Robin salon at Hôtel Le Meurice – he often comes to me and knows exactly how to cut my hair – and any of the stylists at Rudy’s Barbershop on Sunset Boulevard, where the atmosphere is always lively. Christophe Robin, Hôtel Le Meurice, 228 Rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris (+331-4020 0283; www.christophe-robin.com). Rudy’s Barbershop, 4451 W Sunset Boulevard, CA 90027 (+1323-661 6535; www.rudysbarbershop.com).

My favourite room in my house is the kitchen. It’s where we spend most of our time as a family and we love to cook and really use the space. It’s modern with lots of natural light and the atmosphere is always very alive.  


An Anselm Kiefer restrospective at the Royal Academy of Arts | Image: Ukartpics/Alamy stock photo

An Anselm Kiefer restrospective at the Royal Academy of Arts | Image: Ukartpics/Alamy stock photo


If I didn’t live in Paris, the city I would live in is LA. There is so much to do culturally and I particularly love the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, hearing the LA Philharmonic at the Hollywood Bowl and watching movies under the stars at the Hollywood Forever Cemetery. A great day starts with an Intelligentsia coffee, which is so much better than anything in Paris, followed by a walk in Griffith Park and around the Observatory. I also like the creative Spanish-fusion cuisine at Bäco Mercat downtown and the Sunset Tower Hotel and Soho House for their vibrant atmosphere. From the Frank Lloyd Wright houses to Pasadena City College flea market, there is so much to see and do in this magical, fascinating and colourful city, and yet its potential for growth seems limitless. Bäco Mercat, 408 S Main Street (+1213-687 8808; www.bacomercat.com). Griffith Park, 4730 Crystal Springs Drive (+1323-913 4688; www.laparks.org). Hollywood Forever Cemetery, 6000 Santa Monica Boulevard (+1323-469 1181; www.cinespia.org). Intelligentsia Coffee, www.intelligentsiacoffee.com. LA Philharmonic at the Hollywood Bowl, www.laphil.com. Los Angeles County Museum of Art, 5905 Wilshire Boulevard (+1323-857 6000; www.lacma.org). Pasadena Flea Market, 1570 E Colorado Boulevard (+1626-585 7906; www.pasadena.edu). Soho House West Hollywood, 9200 Sunset Boulevard (+1310-432 9200; www.sohohousewh.com). Sunset Tower Hotel, 8358 Sunset Boulevard (+1323-654 7100; www.sunsettowerhotel.com).

In my fridge you’ll always find hummus; assorted organic berries, milk and yoghurt for my son; a selection of cheeses from Terroirs d’Avenir, including a good blue and a Camembert; and whatever wild mushrooms are in season. I like cooking and mushrooms are a real favourite; I sautée morels or fry porcinis and often make fresh mushroom sauce for pasta. 6-8 Rue du Nil, 75002 Paris (+331-8170 9798; www.terroirs-avenir.fr).


Dancers, Buildings and People in the Streets, by Edwin Denby

Dancers, Buildings and People in the Streets, by Edwin Denby


The books on my bedside table include Dave Eggers’s A Heartbreaking Work of Staggering Genius; Rainer Maria Rilke’s Letters to a Young Poet; Jennifer Homans’s Apollo’s Angels: A History of Ballet; and Dancers, Buildings, and People in the Streets by dance critic Edwin Denby. Sergei Diaghilev’s biography is always there as well. I love it all – history, fiction, poetry – but I especially like reading about dance.

The objects I would never part with are a series of Irving Penn photographs of dancers that I’ve collected over time. They’re from his Ballet Society series in the 1940s and have a ghostly quality; the dancers look like angels. To me, these images embody ballet and I would love to add to them over time.


Merci boutique in Paris

Merci boutique in Paris


If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose the fourth arrondissement in Paris. This area in the Marais is packed with smaller stores including Christophe Lemaire’s boutique in a former pharmacy, which is full of the minimalist clothing I like. Then there’s Acne Studios and concept store Merci, which is an incredible place to find emerging designers, housewares and virtually everything else, plus I love its philanthropic angle. The vibrant Café Français – a brasserie facing the Opéra – is a great place for lunch. Acne Studios, 3 Rue Froissart (+331-4996 9691; www.acnestudios.com). Café Français, 1-3 Place de la Bastille (+331-4029 0402; www.cafe-francais.fr). Christophe Lemaire, 28 Rue de Poitou (+331-4478 0009; www.lemaire.fr). Merci, Boulevard Beaumarchais (+331- 4277 0033; www.merci-merci.com).

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be an architect, pianist or conductor. Each discipline relates to what I do now, and I would love to conduct and interpret a score.

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Deborah Berke's Clean and Simple Spaces

The New York-based architect and soon-to-be Yale University School of Architecture dean discusses Japanese aesthetics, good books, and her interior designs for the new 432 Park Avenue.

The New York-based architect and soon-to-be Yale University School of Architecture dean discusses Japanese aesthetics, good books, and her interior designs for the new 432 Park Avenue.

You championed “the architecture of the everyday.” What does this mean to you?
I championed this 20 years ago when I was commuting regularly up 1-95 to teach at Yale. This philosophy celebrated the beauty and inspiration in everyday life: from the diners we’d pass on the road, to new materials being used for construction. I still believe in unselfconscious design that we can all learn from, but I’m now most interested in designing buildings that are linked to where they are. So much of what gets built today could be anywhere. I’m arguing for architecture that’s specific to place.

You studied at London’s Architectural Association with Rem Koolhaas, Zaha Hadid, and Elia Zenghelis. What impact did this have on your work?
They are all completely fascinating people, but I would have to say that I was the AA that impacted my practice and opened my eyes to a different kind of architecture. There isn’t the same studio culture in the U.K. as in the U.S.—it’s much more about meeting with your critic over there.

How does living in New York inform your preferences for spare spaces and natural materials?
I love New York but because it’s frenetic, dirty, and busy, people want simplicity, clarity, and serenity in their environments. They seek an antidote to the city. In addition to designing minimalist spaces, I tend to gravitate toward natural, clean materials in neutral hues that have integrity to them.

You have said that you have a longitude interest in cities as places where things get made. What cities are particularly interesting and productive today?
Right now we are seeing an explosion in cities where things have traditionally been made or exchanged, and Detroit and Nashville are two prime examples of this. Boutique industries are thriving again—for the creation of musical instruments in Nashville, to the production of everything from belts to chairs to custom bicycles in secondary or tertiary cities. Small-scale production is really thriving again.

Has being a woman in a field dominated by men felt like an impediment? Is the playing field being leveled with time?
For all women architects I know, there is a glass ceiling of a kind. One example: I was recently sitting in business class on an airplane and was asked what I do by the man seated next to me. When I said I was an architect, he immediately asked, “Do you do interiors?” There are lesser expectations for women. In general, there is a lack of diversity in architecture, and women are certainly better represented than many other groups. Architecture is hideously underrepresented of society as a whole.

Your love of boutique hotels has led to an ongoing collaboration with 21c Hotels, a small chain of properties housed in restored historic buildings, in smaller cities. What’s important about these properties?
I came to 21c through an interesting set of circumstances: I had pitched for a project in Louisville that we didn’t get, but one of the principals liked what he heard and asked us to help revitalize that downtown That has led to work on a series of important buildings, from a conversion project in Buffalo that involves an H.H. Richardson building, to an addition to I.M. Pei’s Rockefeller Arts Center at SUNY Fredonia, to a hotel project in a Shreve Lambs & Harmon building in Durham, and an Albert Kahn building in Oklahoma City that were transforming from a Ford plant into a hotel. These are all great buildings that are of a place. We hope to transform them, yet keep them deeply grounded in their sites.

How did being a model influence your design aesthetic? Do you have an appreciation for fashion?
My mother was a lingerie designer and I’ve always had a love of fashion. She was a professor at FIT. Her creative life was an inspiration to me, as was her passion for teaching.

Are you still tied to that world? Narciso Rodriquez is a friend.
Narciso and I had drinks last night, and he gave me a beautiful book on Brazilian modernist architect Lina Bo Bardi. He loves architecture, so we always have that to discuss, as well as art exhibits at the MoMA, Supreme Court decisions, government policies, and politics in general.

Your firm hosts a rotating art program at the studio that showcases work by up-and-coming artists. How is this series curated?
A three-person curatorial committee selects work by older artists, young people, and artwork that runs the gamut from prints for paintings to sculpture and group shows. The common thread is that the art just has to interest us in some way. These exhibitions are good for office morale—very fun for parties, as they add to the studio environment. And they’re a great forum for emerging artists who don’t always have gallery representation.

New York’s Marianna Boesky Gallery, which you designed, is a combination of corrugated metal and concrete, juxtaposed against the High Line. How did the location influence your choice of materials?
The 6,000-square-foot building refers to the industrial, garage like composition of the West Chelsea neighborhood. It is composed of custom concrete blocks and also incorporates glazed white brick and corrugated metal. It was the first building built under the new High Line zoning, and it’s contextual to the surroundings. The interiors of the gallery are austere and muted, all to highlight the art within.

If you were to invite the greats of architecture and design to dinner, whom might you include?
By definition they’d all have to be dead—otherwise I’d just have a dinner party! I’d much rather invite poets, composers, and dancers, as I love talking to people who do things other than what I do. Gertrude Stein and Maria Tallchief would be right at the top of my guest list…

How has your design process evolved from early loft conversions in the 1980s to the collaboration with Rafael Viñoly on 431 Park, currently the tallest building in the western hemisphere?
We are living in cities in very different ways now and the definition of luxury has changed dramatically. Luxury is omnipresent. Much of the work that I do is “whole vision.” We design the building to the furnishings. This project was very different in that way.

Can you elaborate on the exquisite finishes, fabrics, lighting solutions and custom hardware at 432 Park?
Harry Macklowe, the developer, is an old-school modernist and came up to us because he wanted an elegant, understate, spare aesthetic that capitalized on the stunning views in all directions. We took inspiration from the classic apartments of Park Avenue for floor plans and layouts. We looked at the way spaces were traditionally used in terms of general lifestyle and the flow for entertaining in particular. Everything form the herringbone floors, to the baseboards, to the bathrooms with windows that can be seen throughout the half-floor model apartment references the work of historic Park Avenue buildings by the likes of Rosario Candela.

Which artists—and what kind of artwork—would you like to see in these spaces at 432 Park?
The walls here are vast and are designed to take art. In the model apartment there are “Seascape” photographs by Hiroshi Sugimoto, prints by Ellsworth Kelly and Donald Sultan, and the table by Yves Klein. Old Master paintings would work just as well as the light and spaces are so beautiful.

Which building or buildings do you think are the greatest of all time?
It’s hard to narrow it down, but I’m a huge fan of both Eliel and Eero Saarinen, and the First Christian Church in Columbus, Indiana, is among my favorites. The space, light, and materiality all make this sacred building feel not too precious. Louis Kahn’s library at the Phillips Exeter Academy is another great one. The materiality of it has influenced me forever.

What is one place that you’ve traveled to in the past year that really impressed you from a design perspective?
The attention to detail in Japan is incredible. It seems that everything is highly considered, from both a visual and functional perspective. This is true to the architecture, yes, but of every other craft, too. Fabric design, cooking, urban design—they all have a connection to quality and tradition, which is felt even if the idea or expression is new. Naoshima, an art-filled island, is a great example of this.

You famously eschew clutter. What’s an area of your life where you make an exception?
Books. I can’t get rid of them and they line the shelves in both my New York City apartment and at my home in Long Island. From art and architecture tomes, to fiction, to biographies to books about philosophy, I’m an avid collector.

What are the books on your bedside table?
Many at any given time. I’m currently reading the Alexander Hamilton biography by Ron Chernow; Between You & Me: Confessions of a Comma Queen by New Yorker proofreader Mary Norris; and James Salter’s A Sport and a Pastime. Next up will be 1939, a book about the failure of diplomacy to stop World War II. I always have a stack of magazines, too—everything from Vogue and Allure to The Economist and The Nation.

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Donna Karan talks personal taste: Part One

Designer Donna Karan recently stood down from the eponymous empire she founded over 30 years ago to focus on her philanthropic initiative, Urban Zen

Designer Donna Karan recently stood down from the eponymous empire she founded over 30 years ago to focus on her philanthropic initiative, Urban Zen

My personal style signifiers are a black cashmere scarf and a bold artisan necklace made of wood or stone. The scarf is a way of life for me; it’s a security blanket, a luxurious piece to throw on my shoulder or wrap around myself if I get cold. The necklace – often something I pick up in Haiti from craftswoman Pascale Théard – adds that element of soul and individuality. www.pascaletheard.com.        

Karan’s Urban Zen coat | Image: Dorothy Hong

Karan’s Urban Zen coat | Image: Dorothy Hong


The best gift I’ve given recently was a Ross Bleckner painting called Treasury of Light (Black), to my daughter Gabby. It is a large oil-on-linen piece that looks like a starburst in the dark night sky. I adore Bleckner – for his art and as a friend. We went to Hewlett High School together and have stayed in touch. Mary Boone Gallery, 541 W 24th St, New York, NY 10011 (+1212-752 2929; www.maryboonegallery.com).

And the best one I’ve received is time off. At this point in my life, this is the most precious gift of all.

Florblanca resort, Costa Rica. | Image: Peter Artemenko

Florblanca resort, Costa Rica. | Image: Peter Artemenko


The last item of clothing I added to my wardrobe was a slouchy chocolate-brown suede coat from Urban Zen [the label that helps fund her foundation]; I love the softness of suede. I have also ordered a striking gold metallic and black velvet embroidered evening coat from my autumn 2015 collection – a benefit of having my own label. It’s a forever piece. www.donnakaran.comwww.urbanzen.com.


Tutto Il Giorno restaurant, Long Island. | Image: Erik Striffler

Tutto Il Giorno restaurant, Long Island. | Image: Erik Striffler


A recent “find” is a private house in Santa Teresa, Costa Rica, which was recommended to me by the wonderful manager at the Florblanca resort just next door. Holidays are risky when it’s a new place, but everything about this villa was perfection. The house was comfortable, the views were stunning, and the location – right on the beach – was heavenly. Our days were spent doing yoga, eating at great restaurants and racing quad bikes across the sand. Florblanca, two miles north of Frank’s Place, Santa Teresa (+506-2640 0226; www.florblanca.com).


The Zohar

The Zohar


The people I rely on for personal grooming are the same people I’ve been working with forever: Berta Camal at Jed Root who does my make-up in a low-key way, and Joyce Cohen who cuts and styles my hair. They know me and I trust them completely, even when we experiment with new looks. Berta Camal at Jed Root, 333 Seventh Ave, New York, NY 10001 (+1212-226 6600; www.jedroot.com).


Who Will Comfort Me by Melody Gardot.

Who Will Comfort Me by Melody Gardot.


The last meal that truly impressed me was at Tutto Il Giorno on Long Island, where I loved both the food and atmosphere. Everything is fresh, simple and southern Italian in style, and the burrata with tomatoes, penne with eggplant, and cartoccio – beautiful local fish baked in parchment paper with roasted-tomato vinaigrette – were all exceptional. 56 Nugent St, Southampton, New York, NY 11968 (+1631-377 3611; www.tuttoilgiorno.com).

The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Francis Bacon. I have a few of his works, but I’d like more. I surprised my late husband Stephan with an enormous Bacon painting, as he was his favourite artist – and now he’s mine too.

The books on my bedside table are The Zohar – I’m a Kabbalist and this spiritual book is an endless source of comfort and inspiration – and my journal, which contains my to-do lists, my calendar and the sketches and ideas that strike at all times of the day and night.

My favourite room in my house is the spa in each of my homes. I have one in my Manhattan apartment, a yoga hut in Parrot Cay and a whole spa house in East Hampton. In each case, their design was an integral part of the overall space, because for me a spa is an essential.

The last music I downloaded was songs used in my autumn 2015 show. Our “music curator” Kevin Edwards always picks great tracks that become my playlist until the next season. Favourites include Kandace Springs’ Love Got in the Way, Lipbone Redding’s Sixteen Tons, and Melody Gardot’s Who Will Comfort Me. Each one has a soulful rhythm and beautiful lyrics.

My favourite websites are 8, a new video platform launched by my friend Sonja Nuttall that allows users to keep 80 per cent of the advertising money from the site, and Citizen Brooklyn, which focuses on this New York borough’s emerging creative community. www.citizenbrooklyn.com.www.weare8.com.

Discover the personal style files of other creatives with philanthropic clout, such as disaster-relief- housing architect Shigeru Ban and ethical jewellery designer Pippa Small.

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Donna Karan talks personal taste: Part Two

The fashion designer’s compendium of passions includes the great energy of Costa Rica and Orange County’s best clothing boutique

The fashion designer’s compendium of passions includes the great energy of Costa Rica and Orange County’s best clothing boutique

The last things I bought and loved were artisanal textiles from the open-air markets surrounding the Seminyak area of Bali. I love, love, love artisan pieces – jewellery, clothing, decorative objects; when I travel, it’s these handmade pieces that stop me. You feel the spirit of the person who made them, the craft culture that has been passed from generation to generation. It connects the past, present and future.

And the thing I’m eyeing next is a vacation – to Cuba and Colombia. I value travelling and experiences more than anything and love to seek out the new and undiscovered. I always say my favourite place is the one I haven’t been to and these two are next on my bucket list.

Birdman, by Stephan Weiss | Image: Colin Hofman

Birdman, by Stephan Weiss | Image: Colin Hofman


An object I would never part with is my late husband Stephan’s collection of artwork. I have so much of it in my home and also at my philanthropic foundation, the Urban Zen Center. There’s nothing more personal to me. My very favourite piece is called Birdman, a brass sculpture that looks like it’s taking flight. Urban Zen Center, 711 Greenwich Street, New York, NY 10014 (+1212-414 8520; www.urbanzen.org).

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Costa Rica. I went with my daughter Gabby, her husband Gianpaolo, and their children Stefania and Sebastino. It was my first time there and I loved it. Each gorgeous place was so understated but also had great energy. The country is raw and untravelled in many places and I adored the adventure of getting into an open Jeep and exploring the dirt roads with monkeys swinging from the trees above. I particularly loved Playa Hermosa in Santa Teresa, where I watched my grandchildren surf; Koji’s, a Japanese restaurant right on the beach; and Couleur Café for its fresh juices. The food was exceptional everywhere we went – Playa de los Artistas in Montezuma was another favourite – and I can’t wait to return. Couleur Café, main access road to Playa Hermosa, Santa Teresa (+506-2640 0677). Koji’s Restaurant, 400m south of Hermosa Valley School, Playa Hermosa, Santa Teresa (+506-2640 0815). Playa de los Artistas, Montezuma (+506-2642 0920).

And the best souvenir I’ve brought home is peace of mind. Time with my family does that for me. I take on many projects, professionally and philanthropically, and it’s hard for me to let go. To be in a place like Costa Rica was a true vacation. The phone reception was bad so I couldn’t be in constant contact, which turned out to be a great thing.

An indulgence I would never forgo is yoga. I practise every morning – either privately in my apartment if I’m in the city, or at Yoga Shanti in Sag Harbor when I’m in the Hamptons. It’s an indulgence because I have to squeeze it into my busy schedule, but it’s the calm in the chaos of the day that awaits me. Yoga Shanti, 32 Bridge Street, Sag Harbor, New York, NY 11963 (+1631-725 6424; www.yogashanti.com).


Obsolete antiques shop in New York

Obsolete antiques shop in New York


If I didn’t live in New York, the city I would live in is LA. It is the closest lifestyle to New York and all my friends live there. A perfect day includes a walk on the beach in Malibu; a drive along the Pacific Coast Highway; and exploring the antiques shop Obsolete, where I always find pieces to buy, and A’maree’s, a favourite fashion boutique in Orange County with a brilliant edit. In the evenings I usually hang out at my friends’ homes, but I also love a good dinner out – with great people watching – at either Nobu or Chateau Marmont on Sunset Boulevard. A’maree’s, 2241 West Coast Highway, Newport Beach (+1949-642 4423; www.amarees.com). Chateau Marmont, 8221 Sunset Boulevard, West Hollywood(+1323-656 1010; www.chateaumarmont.com). Nobu Los Angeles, 903 North La Cienega Boulevard (+1310-657 2900; www.noburestaurants.com). Obsolete, 11270 West Washington Boulevard, Culver City (+1310-399 0024; www.obsoleteinc.com).

In my fridge you’ll always find ingredients for my green juice. I love the fresh taste and it packs in so many important daily nutrients. I have a glass every morning and take a flask or two to work to get me through the day. You’ll also find salmon for poaching, various homemade soups and eggs for my morning egg-white omelettes.


Chiltern Firehouse | Image: Nicholas Kay

Chiltern Firehouse | Image: Nicholas Kay


If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose Belgravia and Mayfair in London; I really only shop when I travel. I love Egg for its eclectic mix of eastern-inspired clothing and emerging designers, and Dover Street Market for six storeys of fashion finds, art installations and new ideas. After shopping, Chiltern Firehouse is a new favourite for its vibrant atmosphere and I love Scott’s for its classic fresh seafood. At the end of the day, I adore retreating to The Halkin, which is a home away from home and holds so many memories for me. Chiltern Firehouse, 1 Chiltern Street, W1 (020-7073 7676; www.chilternfirehouse.com). Dover Street Market, 17-18 Dover Street, W1 (020-7518 0680; www.doverstreetmarket.com). Egg, 36 Kinnerton Street, SW1 (020-7235 9315; www.eggtrading.com). The Halkin by Como, 5-6 Halkin Street, SW1 (020-7333 1000; www.comohotels.com/thehalkin). Scott’s, 20 Mount Street, W1 (020-7495 7309).

The sites that inspire me are views of the ocean in the Hamptons in spring and summer, and in winter, the sunset against New York’s ever-changing skyline. I will stop my car to get out and inhale the beauty of a sunset; I particularly love the view from a spot on the West Side Highway near Stephan’s apple sculpture.


Young Living Thieves Essential Oil Supplement, £37.50 for 15ml

Young Living Thieves Essential Oil Supplement, £37.50 for 15ml


The beauty staples I’m never without are the essential oils that I use for everything – as scent, as a massage oil, and to set the olfactory atmosphere in both private and public spaces. I use Young Living Essential Oils, where the spicy, woody Thieves is my favourite. I also love the more calming lavender version. £37.50 for 15ml; www.youngliving.com.

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be on the back of a motorcycle, going from one artisan village to another, supporting and developing their trade and bringing it to the world. I’d publish my journal about this alternative life and call it My Motorcycle Diaries.  

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Shigeru Ban talks personal taste: Part One

Pritzker Prize-winning architect Shigeru Ban designs private homes, disaster-relief housing made from recycled materials, and museums, including Centre Pompidou-Metz and Aspen Art Museum

Pritzker Prize-winning architect Shigeru Ban designs private homes, disaster-relief housing made from recycled materials, and museums, including Centre Pompidou-Metz and Aspen Art Museum

My personal style signifier is always wearing black. My mother, a couturier, designs and makes my jeans at her atelier, which is in the same building as my Tokyo offices. She also makes jackets in a variety of fabrics – linen, cotton, wool – so I can wear them throughout the seasons and across the globe.

The best gift I’ve given recently was a set of sculptural white-wine glasses designed by Josef Hoffmann. The “muslin” crystal is super-thin. I gave them to someone in my office who is a wine lover like me. $500 for four; www.mosspop.com.


Camper leather boots, £130 | Image: www.camper.com

Camper leather boots, £130 | Image: www.camper.com


And the best one I’ve received was a silkscreen print by Japanese architect Arata Isozaki. It is very special, not only because I’ve worked with Isozaki, but also because it was given to me by a client who became a dear friend.

The objects I would never part with are my special Utrecht black sketchbooks that I have been using since I was a student at The Cooper Union in New York in the 1980s. I draw in them wherever I go, preferably with a fine-point Muji Aluminum Hexagonal pen in black or red ink. I keep these pens clipped to my shirt pocket so that I’m ready to sketch any time, anywhere. Muji Aluminum Hexagonal pen, £3.95; www.muji.com. Utrecht sketchbook, from £3.91; www.utrechtart.com.

An indulgence I would never forgo is Henri Giraud Code Noir champagne. It’s not very well known because until the 1990s it was only sold privately to customers in France and Italy. It is fermented in oak casks and has a delicious, complex flavour. From £70; www.champagne-giraud.com.

The last thing I added to my wardrobe was a pair of chocolate-brown short leather boots by Camper. They are very simple and I love them because I like to travel light and can wear them every day. £130; www.camper.com.


Henri Giraud Code Noir champagne, from £70 | Image: Code Noir

Henri Giraud Code Noir champagne, from £70 | Image: Code Noir


An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Daanbantayan on Cebu island in the Philippines. This area was ravaged by a typhoon two years ago, but the natural beauty I saw everywhere was incredible. The ocean was a particular blue I haven’t seen elsewhere and I found the local fishermen’s houses made of bamboo and nipa-palm leaves especially charming. The strength of the people was inspirational.

A recent “find” is Sushi Ginza Onodera, a very pure sushi restaurant in Paris. This place isn’t about fusion cooking, nor is it influenced by French cuisine. I love the omakase menus, the beautiful plates of fresh nigiri, the very warm ambience and authentic decor. 18 Rue du Louvre, 75001 Paris (+331-4020 0930; www.sushi-onodera.com).

Silkscreen print of Fukuoka City Bank head office by Arata Isozaki | Image: Arata Isozaki & Associates

Silkscreen print of Fukuoka City Bank head office by Arata Isozaki | Image: Arata Isozaki & Associates


My favourite space in my house is the central courtyard in my Tokyo home, where trees grow up through the building to the sky. It is in a forest and I didn’t want to take down any trees to build this light-filled house.

The last music I downloaded was Paganini: 24 Caprices for Solo Violin by the  Japanese-American violinist Midori. In addition to being a wonderful musician she is also a United Nations Messenger of Peace, which I admire. I also bought Mendelssohn & Tchaikovsky: Violin Concertos by Akiko Suwanai, and Berliner Philharmoniker: 125 Years by conductor Seiji Ozawa, who is a huge talent and also a friend.


Umeboshi, or pickled plums | Image: Getty Images/amana images RF

Umeboshi, or pickled plums | Image: Getty Images/amana images RF


In my fridges you’ll always find sake in Tokyo and wine in Paris. And traditional Japanese umeboshi – or pickled plums. My mother used to make me eat them when I was a child and I hated the salty, sour taste, but recently I got very bad food poisoning in Rwanda and these plums literally saved my life. I now eat them every morning.

My favourite websites are the Oita Prefectural Art Museum and the Aspen Art Museum, for video tours and information about their exceptional exhibitions. Also the Centre Pompidou-Metz site, which is an excellent contemporary art resource. www.aspenartmuseum.orgwww.centrepompidou-metz.frwww.opam.jp.

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Shigeru Ban talks personal taste: Part Two

The Pritzker Prize-winning architect rounds up his list of likes with Issey Miyake, J Sheekey and Cloudy Bay

The Pritzker Prize-winning architect rounds up his list of likes with Issey Miyake, J Sheekey and Cloudy Bay

Shigeru Ban | Image: Lea Crespi

Shigeru Ban | Image: Lea Crespi

My style icon is Issey Miyake. I admire his distinctive but minimalist aesthetic and the way he never follows the crowd. I’m particularly impressed by the new fabrics he invents; he’s a true innovator.


The last thing I bought and loved was a Tumi suitcase for my travels. I buy practical pieces based purely on their performance. This Alpha 2 rolling suitcase is ultra-lightweight and allows me to get through airports quickly. From £387; www.tumi.com.

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And the thing I’m eyeing next is a book called Who Built That? Modern Houses by Didier Cornille, which highlights some of the most important architects and houses of the 20th and 21st centuries. I teach at Kyoto University of Art and Design, and the book’s colourful drawings illustrating the construction of each building will be illuminating for my students. $16.95; www.papress.com.

The last meal that truly impressed me was at J Sheekey in London. They really know how to take advantage of natural materials – excellent cod, Atlantic prawns – and don’t smother them in rich sauces. Everything about my dinner there was wonderful: the wine list, the vibrant ambience, the knowledgeable and attentive staff and, above all, the perfectly grilled salmon. 28-32 St Martin’s Court, London WC2 (020-7240 2565; www.j-sheekey.co.uk).



The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Korean painter and sculptor Lee Ufan, whom I met recently in Paris. He’s part of a group of artists I admire called Mono-ha [School of Things], and his sculptural works made from everyday, recycled materials like paper, stone, rope and steel are simply beautiful.

The best souvenir I’ve brought home was a case of wine from Christchurch, New Zealand. I love wine – white, red, champagne – but the Cloudy Bay Chardonnay from my time spent there building the Cardboard Cathedral has become a particular favourite. www.cloudybay.co.nz.



Image: Mark C O’Flaherty

Image: Mark C O’Flaherty

The books on my bedside table include novels by Go Osaka, a writer who specialises in crime and spy fiction; a handful of works published by The Cooper Union that focus on architecture and global urban planning; and some of John Hejduk’s writings and drawings, which are particular favourites.

The site that inspires me is the port village of Onagawa in Miyagi Prefecture, Japan. The colours of the Pacific and the steep, verdant hills leading down to the town are beautiful.

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If I didn’t live in Tokyo, the city I would live in is Paris. The area around the Marais, where I have an apartment, is full of wonderful places, including the Centre Pompidou and the shops of Les Halles. Taschen is a favourite store for books about architecture and design, and after shopping and a visit to the museum, I like to have lunch at the Pompidou’s French-fusion restaurant Georges; the view overlooking the Parisian skyline is beautiful. Centre Pompidou, Place Georges-Pompidou (+331-4478 1233; www.centrepompidou.fr). Georges, Centre Pompidou, Place Georges-Pompidou  (+331-4478 4799; www.beaumarly.com). Taschen, 24 Rue de Buci (+331-4051 7922; www.taschen.com).

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be running an NGO. I already have my own – Voluntary Architects’ Network – but I would also like to work with the United Nations Refugee Agency to help those displaced by natural disaster. Or I’d be a carpenter – I love to build with my hands, which ties nicely into architecture and design.

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Francisco Costa talks personal taste: Part One

Francisco Costa is creative director of womenswear at Calvin Klein Collection, where he is known for his spare yet sensual aesthetic and show-stopping red-carpet gowns

Francisco Costa is creative director of womenswear at Calvin Klein Collection, where he is known for his spare yet sensual aesthetic and show-stopping red-carpet gowns

Image: Martin Adolfsson

Image: Martin Adolfsson

My personal style signifier is a collection of three rings. The first is a rosary prayer ring given to me by my mother when I turned 15; the second was my grandfather’s wedding ring and the third was my father’s. I never take them off.

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The last thing I bought and loved was a pair of custom-made, crystal cufflinks from Verdura. These beautiful, faceted cylinders have a delicate gold chain and I plan to wear them with everything, from French cuff shirts and jeans to more formalwear. 745 Fifth Ave, Suite 1205, New York, NY 10151 (+1212-758 3388; www.verdura.com).

And the thing I’m eyeing next is a bleach-on-linen painting by Ed Ruscha called Sour Twist, currently on display at the Gagosian Gallery in New York. I think Ruscha is one of the world’s most iconic contemporary artists. 980 Madison Ave, New York, NY 10075 (+1212-744 2313; www.gagosian.com).

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A recent “find” is Varney’s, a simple clam bar in Brookhaven near my weekend home on Long Island. It’s very authentic and fun and is always packed in summer. Situated right on Montauk Highway, it caters to everyone from locals to celebrities in search of good, fresh clam chowder and fried seafood. 2109 Montauk Highway, Brookhaven, New York, NY 11719 (+1631-286 9569; www.varneysrestaurant.com).

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If I didn’t live in New York, the city I would live in is Rio. I love that it is a very outdoor city year-round and that the people are so warm and welcoming. You’ll find flora and fauna of every kind there and the Jardim Botânico is one of my favourite places to explore. The beaches – particularly Ipanema – are fantastic; I like the Cinelândia neighbourhood for its bookshops, restaurants and galleries; the Museu de Arte Moderna is a cultural highlight and I love having lunch at the eco-chic Hotel Santa Teresa. From the fresh Portuguese-inspired food to the beach culture, I adore the simplicity of life here. Hotel Santa Teresa, Rua Almirante Alexandrino 660 (+5521-2222 2755; www.santa-teresa-hotel.com). Jardim Botânico, Rua Jardim Botânico 1008 (+5521-3874 1808; www.jbrj.gov.br). Museu de Arte Moderna, Infante Dom Henrique 85, Parque do Flamengo (+5521-2240 4944; www.mamrio.com.br).

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An indulgence I would never forego is books, books and more books. I love giving them as gifts, collecting them for my library and generally surrounding myself with them. Titles on my wish list include Dr David Ekserdjian’s Casting ModernityBronze in the XXth Century, Kenneth Frampton’s Kengo Kuma: Complete Works and Deborah Solomon’s Marcel Dzama: Puppets, Pawns, and Prophets. I buy a lot of my books online, but I also like the photography bookshop Dashwood Books in Nolita. 33 Bond St, New York, NY 10012 (+1212-387 8520; www.dashwoodbooks.com).

In my fridge you’ll always find caviar, Moët, which I don’t drink myself but like to have on hand, and bars of very good, raw dark chocolate that I buy at gourmet Italian deli Eataly. You’ll also find vitamins B12, C and D, which tend to sit there, unopened. 200 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10010 (+1212-229 2560; www.eataly.com).

The people I rely on for personal grooming and wellbeing are Chelsea Barbers for my haircuts, Tracie Martyn for incredible, hydrating facials – I love the atmosphere at her salon – and Dr Frank Lipman, my supercool nutritionist at Eleven Eleven Wellness, who keeps me healthy and in balance. Chelsea Barbers, 465 West 23rd St (+1212‑741 2254; www.chelseabarbers.com). Dr Frank Lipman, Eleven Eleven Wellness Center, 32 West 22nd St (+1212-255 1800; www.drfranklipman.com). Tracie Martyn, 101 Fifth Ave (+1212-206 9333; www.traciemartyn.com).





The last music I downloaded was Brazilian: Verdade Uma Ilusão by Marisa Monte, whose voice is heavenly, and All in One by Bebel Gilberto. She comes from a family of great musicians and I love her sound.

My favourite websites are the shopping site Fancy, for a visually energetic and beautifully curated collection of everything from furniture to trainers, and 1stdibs, because it takes me on a journey across the world. www.1stdibs.comwww.fancy.com.







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Francisco Costa talks personal taste: Part Two

The designer concludes his compendium of passions with Cambodia and Cole Porter’s cigarette box

The designer concludes his compendium of passions with Cambodia and Cole Porter’s cigarette box

My style icon is the British fashion stylist Camilla Nickerson. She dresses like no one else – I admire the way she mixes things up – and is effortlessly elegant and cool; even the natural way she wears her hair is refreshing.

The best gift I’ve given recently was a vintage cigarette box designed by Fulco di Verdura for the American singer-songwriter Cole Porter. This was a special gift to my partner that I bid for at auction and it sits on the table in our library. Sotheby’s, 1334 York Ave, New York, NY 10021 (+1212-606 7000; www.sothebys.com).

And the best gift I’ve received recently is a neon artwork created for me for my birthday by my design studio. It reads “Collaboration. Innovation. Fearlessness”: all principles and ideas we value at Calvin Klein, and it hangs in a very special place in my office.

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If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose downtown Manhattan. I love Wyeth for mid-century-modern furniture, Space NK for potions and lotions, and a wonderful food emporium called All Good Things for stocking up on cut flowers, freshly baked bread and great coffee. All Good Things, 102 Franklin Street (+1212-925 5081; www.allgoodthingsny.com). Space NK, 99 Greene Street (+1212-941 4200; www.spacenk.com). Wyeth, 315 Spring Street (+1212-243 3661; www.wyethome.com).

The books on my bedside table are Rachel Zoe’s Living In Style: Inspiration and Advice for Everyday Glamour and Laura Lima, Ronald Duarte’s fascinating look at the mixed-media work of this Brazilian artist. My stack of reading material changes frequently, though, and might also include catalogues from the Wright Auction House, which highlights the best in contemporary design, and always FT Weekend.

The beauty staples I’m never without are Dr Bronner’s all-natural Organic Citrus Conditioning Hair Rinse, which isn’t particularly fancy but I love it, plus the brand's coconut oil, which I use for everything from softening my skin to brushing my teeth and gargling. It takes all the toxins away. Organic Citrus Conditioning Rinse, $10 for 8fl oz; Virgin Coconut Oil, $12 for 14fl oz; www.drbronner.com.

The last item of clothing I added to my wardrobe was a full white-tie ensemble that I designed for this year’s Met Ball. Everyone looked so spectacular that night, and I hope I’ll have another occasion to wear this suit again soon.

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Cambodia. It is simply extraordinary, from Siem Reap and the spectacular Angkor Wat, to the delicious food and sheer force of nature I witnessed everywhere I went. My stay at the stellar Amansara – a very cool mid-century structure transformed into a luxury hotel – was particularly memorable. It once served as the King of Cambodia’s guest villa, and Jackie Onassis visited in the 1960s. From $1,100; Road to Angkor, Siem Reap (+85563-760 333; www.amanresorts.com).

An object I would never part with is a Lucio Fontana lithograph that was the first piece of art I ever bought. I discovered it in Milan – during a time when I was living and working in London many years ago – and it remains a very special part of my collection.

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My favourite room in my house is my library, which gets beautiful morning light and has a soothing atmosphere. I enjoy spending time there alone, surrounded by books from floor to ceiling. It also features a basic, very functional desk and a comfortable sofa of my own design.

The site that inspires me is Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming. I love the American west and this area is very rich in natural beauty. The Teton mountain range is particularly breathtaking, with its rock formations, geysers and endless hikes.

The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Pablo Picasso. He broke all the rules and had a fearless approach to his work. I particularly love his later periods and think that he was a great influence on artists like Andy Warhol and Jean-Michel Basquiat. He fundamentally changed the way we look at art.


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The best souvenir I’ve brought home is a set of little paint vials in very primary colours from Xi’an in China. I went to see the Terracotta Army soldiers at this gorgeous city on the Silk Road and spotted the vials in an art shop nearby. I bought hundreds and had to pay an extra baggage fee to get them home. They are beyond a souvenir to me; I find their pigments very raw and inspiring.

The last meal that truly impressed me was a special breakfast in Cambodia that was served in a simple, local home. We awoke at daybreak to see the sun rise over the temples and were then taken to this very basic wooden shack for kuyteav (noodle soup), fish wrapped in banana leaves and tea. The scent of jasmine was everywhere and the whole meal – and the morning in general – was very purifying.

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be growing vegetables on a farm and living off the land. I find the idea of a simple life very appealing. As a child, I loved to construct things – buildings, gardens, whole environments – so I could also envision being an architect.

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