Interviews2, Fashion Christina Ohly Evans Interviews2, Fashion Christina Ohly Evans

Maria Sole Ferragamo’s secret guide to Sardinia

Maria Sole Ferragamo’s secret guide to Sardinia

The jewellery designer recommends her favourite places to eat, shop and stay

The jewellery designer recommends her favourite places to eat, shop and stay

I’ve been going to Sardinia every summer since I was nine months old to visit my maternal grandparents in Cannigione in the northern part of the island. When I was about 10, my father decided to buy a shipyard, Nautor’s Swan, which has held regattas here ever since. Now I live in Milan and find Sardinia to be the perfect weekend getaway.

I have sailed all around the island – it’s a wonderful way to see the beaches and remote villages. I’ve also explored the hinterlands by motorbike, once travelling 270km down the east coast – and then back up the west coast. At one point, I was surprised to find myself in a mountain chalet in an area called Gennargentu, which has the highest peaks on the island. It’s what makes Sardinia so special. You can find mountains, forests, beaches and lakes that are unique to this place. I especially love the cork trees. They are sustainable because the cork is shaved and then grows back; it’s a material I’m fascinated by. My grandfather used cork for his original wedge shoes and I’d like to incorporate it into my jewellery designs.

Costa Smeralda is probably the most well-known part of Sardinia – I’m particularly familiar with Porto Cervo. There are, of course, beautiful beaches, restaurants and clubs here, but there are also quiet spots with spectacular sunsets. In September, Sardinia’s rocks appear even more pink and orange than usual. The harbour itself has been updated and now includes the New Port as well as the original Old Port, with a ferry running between the two in summer. The new side – the Promenade du Port – is the place to find wonderful shops including one of Franco and Giacomo Loro Piana’s Sease stores, for sailing gear, and Milan gallerist Rossana Orlandi’s Sardinia space. On the old side you’ll find the Yacht Club as well as a store run by Italian sailing brand Slam. For fruit and cheese the best market is probably the Thursday one in San Pantaleo, about 20 minutes away.

From Porto San Paolo you can see the majestic Tavolara Island, which is only accessible by boat. There’s a wonderful restaurant called Ristorante da Tonino Re di Tavolara that you have to book well in advance, and which serves unbelievably fresh crudo. Another lovely port is Porto Rafael, a small village just 30km away from Porto Cervo, and also easily accessed by boat. The busy piazza is full of cafés and it’s the perfect place for an aperitivo.

The south of the island is my favourite area. I like to stay at Faro Capo-Spartivento, in Chia, originally built as a lighthouse in the 1850s. It’s respectful of the landscape, and its water is heated by solar panels. There are a few suites in the lighthouse as well as on the surrounding property, and it feels very intimate. Then there’s the village of Villasimius, just an hour from Cagliari, known for its beaches and archaeological treasures. I always recommend a stay at the Falkensteiner Resort Capo Boi, set on a white-sand beach in the marine reserve of Capo Carbonara. La Vela restaurant with its views over the marina at sunset is a favourite of mine.

The terrace at Capo Spartivento

Sardinian cuisine is full of variety. In the town of Carloforte, on San Pietro island, they are famous for their tuna and the freshest bottarga. Everyone should try a Sardinian seada, a hot pastry made with cheese and honey. And I highly recommend trying the food at an agriturismo – these places have fixed menus and you start with cheeses, meats and pane carasau – a thin, crispy flatbread that’s specific to Sardinia – followed by Gallura soup (a sort of bread lasagne). You will roll out the door, but it is worth going at least once.

April is a wonderful time to visit, as is November. And although peak season is of course hectic, even in busy August, you can still find places that are tranquil. The Rolex Swan Cup usually takes place every two years, and is happening again this September. It is magnificent to see 100 Nautor’s Swan sailboats all in one place, racing around the Costa Smeralda. At this time of year, the crowds thin and the days are a bit shorter, and Sardinia’s rocks appear even more pink and orange than usual.

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The Aesthete: Oliver Reichert’s black book of style

The CEO of Birkenstock finds an escape in cello music, model boats and walking in the Bavarian woods. By Christina Ohly Evans

The CEO of Birkenstock finds an escape in cello music, model boats and walking in the Bavarian woods. By Christina Ohly Evans

My personal style signifier is a pair of perfectly broken-in black Birkenstocks, worn without socks, all year round. I wear a shearling version of the Arizona [sandal] in winter, and the Mayari style in summer. I have a pair of Arizonas that are almost 20 years old. The cork footbeds have seen many miles; they are full of memories. I own 120 pairs of Birkenstocks, but these are the most special. I’m a former American football player, which requires a lot of body mass, so I like to keep my clothing – mostly jeans, T-shirts and sweaters – simple and comfortable.

The last things I bought and loved were two grey shearling leather jackets from Frauenschuh, in Kitzbühel. I collect shearling jackets and have different weights for every season. I usually can’t buy clothes off the rack because of my size, but in Austria they tend to stock things for bigger men. Whenever I find things that fit, I buy multiples.


Reichert’s vintage handmade model boats – souvenirs from St Malo | Image: Marc Krause

Reichert’s vintage handmade model boats – souvenirs from St Malo | Image: Marc Krause

My perfect soundtrack when I’m on the move would have to include Yo-Yo Ma and Ludovico Einaudi. The balance of Yo-Yo Ma’s cello and Einaudi’s piano help me tune out.

The last item of clothing I added to my wardrobe was an old-school, dark-green rain poncho from Holland & Holland. It’s very practical; I think it’s also one of the Queen’s favourites. £890

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Lindsay Castle in Knysna, South Africa. It’s set on the white-sand Noetzie Beach, and the rough Indian Ocean and the light are very dramatic. It’s very understated as castles go, but it was hand-built, stone by stone, and every beam was chosen by hand. It isn’t “luxury” in the traditional sense, but I think of it as an eagle’s nest – just a very relaxing and special place. noetziecastles.co.za

And the best souvenirs I’ve brought home are handmade model boats from a marine-antiques specialist in St Malo: shipbuilder or dockyard models from 1880s England and some made in Scotland in the 1930s. They sit in my home office, but I take them out on occasion and use them for pond sailing with my kids.


One of his two shearling leather jackets by Frauenschuh | Image: Marc Krause

One of his two shearling leather jackets by Frauenschuh | Image: Marc Krause


The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Joseph Beuys. He was one of the first people to mix art and commerce in an honest way. I’d particularly like his Continuum chalk-on-blackboard work, Capri Battery and the felt and steel Samurai Sword. He took ordinary products and branded them intelligently.

The thing I’m eyeing next is a pair of handcrafted boots from Schuh-Bertl, in Munich. These Tricouni-style leather boots will be perfect for walking my dogs in the woods. €480

A corner of Reichert’s studio | Image: Marc Krause

A corner of Reichert’s studio | Image: Marc Krause


The best book I’ve read in the past year is The Film Club: No Work. No School… Just Three Films a Week by David Gilmour. It’s about a teenage boy whose parents have recently divorced and he asks to drop out of school. His father lets him, with the provision that they watch movies – of his choosing ­–­ together each week. They end up talking about everything from work to popular music, and it really touched me as a parent. 

The site that inspires me is the land surrounding my home in Bavaria, about 60 miles north of Munich. This part of the world centres me – the forests, the grasslands, the lakes and the farms represent total freedom.

Reichert always takes his Sony NW-WM1Z high-res audio player on his travels | Image: Marc Krause

Reichert always takes his Sony NW-WM1Z high-res audio player on his travels | Image: Marc Krause


The place I’m yearning to visit again is Benirrás beach in the north of Ibiza. When I have free time I never want to travel for 10 hours. I find the crystal-clear water and the relaxed island vibe here to be perfect. It’s just easy, and with four kids from five to 11 years old, that’s what I’m looking for. 

When I travel, I’m never without a two-to-three-day supply of underwear, T-shirts, Hermès scarves and my Sony NW-WM1Z high-res audio player: it has the purest sound and completely relaxes me.


Last music downloaded: Homeland by French-Moroccan singer Hindi Zahra

Last music downloaded: Homeland by French-Moroccan singer Hindi Zahra

The place that keeps drawing me back is Africa. It’s the mother of the human being, and I’m continually entranced by the colours, the nature and the earth. Its biorhythms match my own. I worked as a correspondent here for several years, so I feel very tied to the land and the people. 

The last music I downloaded was Homeland by the French-Moroccan singer Hindi Zahra. I first heard her soul mix on the then-underground Austrian radio station FM4, and I find the subtle guitar and the melody very relaxing.

If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose the 1st arrondissement in Paris. You can’t beat it for the diversity and the density of excellent shops, from multi-brand stores to antiques shops and galleries – I am constantly surprised. One of the best is the concept store L’Eclaireur, which has a unique mix of clothing, furniture and ceramics. Our Birkenstock 1774 showroom dedicated to special collaborations and projects is also here, near the Hermès flagship. 

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be a farmer focused on producing high-quality food on a large scale. I’d love to grow all kinds of vegetables and raise well-treated animals, like farmers did 150 years ago. I like going with the seasons and think this might be better than running a business in a big city.

An object I would never part with is my wedding ring as it’s the ultimate bond to my family. It’s a simple, thick gold band that’s oversized and proportional to me. It’s definitely unique.

I was pleasantly surprised by Venice Beach, California. The community, the shops, the restaurants and the light are all wonderful. Everyone seems to be relaxed and balanced there, and I felt as if I’d known the people I met for 20 years. For Europeans, the greenwashing might be a bit much, but I think the energy is outstanding.

I had a memorable meal at Elements Ibiza Beach Club. It draws a very international but low-key crowd and the setting is just perfect. It’s a simple spot, where the tables are on a wooden deck on the sand and the kitchen serves the freshest seafood – grilled calamari and prawns with salt and lime vinaigrette – all with delicious olive oil. 

For a sense of escape, I like watching movies on aeroplanes – but I often spend that time looking at pictures of my family, which I find energising. 

The last hotel that blew me away was Claridge’s – as always. I’ve been everywhere, but this place is the best. Every single person who works there has an emotional intelligence that’s rare these days; they’re just so professional and kind, whether I’m travelling for business or with my family. The Fumoir is the best hotel bar too: excellent cocktails, with an old-world atmosphere. 

The travel philosophy I live by is less is more. Less time spent on the road, carry less baggage and take a streamlined approach to meetings. It’s important to separate “urgent” matters from what really counts.

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True blue: Tokyo’s cult shop for indigo style

Christina Ohly Evans visits a unique Daikanyama boutique

Christina Ohly Evans visits a unique Daikanyama boutique

Known as the Brooklyn of Tokyo, Daikanyama is a hipster maze of fashion boutiques, bike shops, micro-breweries and brunch spots. This low-key neighbourhood at the edge of Shibuya is a charming mishmash of concrete structures and glassy storefronts. There’s T-Site’s modernist block of a bookshop, but also traditional wooden buildings such as Kyu Asakura House – a refined relic of the Taisho era that’s now a museum. 

A linen-canvas jacket by Blue Blue Japan, Okura’s in-house brand | Image: Yasuyuki Takagi

A linen-canvas jacket by Blue Blue Japan, Okura’s in-house brand | Image: Yasuyuki Takagi


Copying this old-world style is Okura: a boutique on a quiet Daikanyama backstreet built to resemble a traditional Japanese storehouse, and dedicated to the centuries-old craft of indigo dyeing. Behind well-weathered noren curtains, rustic wooden beams and floorboards provide the perfect setting for a pared-back range of clothing, accessories and decorative objects. “We make items to last a lifetime,” says owner Gen Tarumi, who opened the two-storey shop in 1993. “We adhere to a made-in-Japan ethos. From the dyeing techniques we use, such as bassen and itajime, to the unisex, often modern silhouettes we design, we are proudly Japanese.” 

The traditional dye is made from leaves of the Japanese indigo plant, Persicaria tinctoria, fermented in rice wine and wheat bran to create pure tints that range in hue from a saturated navy to aqua to sky-blue. While the bassen technique uses silk-screen printing, itajime is a type of shibori resist-dyeing where the fabric is folded and sandwiched between two pieces of wood to create graphic patterns with negative spaces – used to striking effect on T-shirts and cushions. 


Blue Blue Japan silk-knit neckties, about £57 | Image: Yasuyuki Takagi

Blue Blue Japan silk-knit neckties, about £57 | Image: Yasuyuki Takagi


Such unique garments, infused with character and rich colour, have attracted fans from as far afield as Europe and the US. Leather-goods maker Bill Amberg goes for the “amazing shirts”, while shoemaker Tim Little of Grenson is a fan of in-house brand Blue Blue Japan, which offers pure-indigo-dyed trousers (Y26,000, about £184), as well as Sashiko coveralls (about £276) and jackets (from about £213). “Our brand is based on old farm workwear called noragi, which was mended with cloth from the inside, with the stitching seen on the outside,” says Tarumi. 


Blue Blue Japan itajime T-shirt, about £135, and example of silk-chiffon scarf | Image: Yasuyuki Takagi

Blue Blue Japan itajime T-shirt, about £135, and example of silk-chiffon scarf | Image: Yasuyuki Takagi


Haori jackets (about £404) have a similar wabi-sabi look, patchworked from pieces of denim and displayed along the stairwell, while for women dresses and kimono-esque tops graduate through myriad indigo hues. “Indigo gradually fades over time to reveal the beauty of many different shades of blue,” says Tarumi. “It can transfer to the body, but it’s easily removed with soap and water. You might not want to wash it off, however; indigo is known to have antibacterial and insect‑repellent properties.” 


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Ssense: the fashion e-tailer’s Montreal megalith of a shop

A sleek David Chipperfield-designed space is at the interface of digital and physical shopping.

A sleek David Chipperfield-designed space is at the interface of digital and physical shopping. By Christina Ohly Evans

Amid the quaint cobbled streets of old-town Montreal, a listed 19th-century building is not what it seems. A clue to what lies beyond the beaux-arts façade is proffered by a peek through the windows, which at first appear to be blacked out, but in fact look onto an intriguing inner structure of grey concrete.

Loewe Puzzle bag, £1,850, and Jacquemus Chiquito pouch, £375 | Image: Alexi Hobbs

Loewe Puzzle bag, £1,850, and Jacquemus Chiquito pouch, £375 | Image: Alexi Hobbs

The magnificently minimal “building within a building” next to the Notre-Dame Basilica is the work of David Chipperfield and the flagship of fashion‑forward retailer Ssense. The statement five‑storey space opened in May 2018, but Ssense (pronounced “essence”) was founded 15 years earlier by brothers Firas, Rami and Bassel Atallah to bring labels such as Maison Margiela, Givenchy, Rick Owens and Balmain to the French-Canadian city.

“We started with a small physical store,” says Firas. “Our aim was to build relationships with brands that were reluctant to sell online at the time.” Since then, Ssense has gone in for e-commerce in a big way. Its website currently serves 150 countries, can be browsed in Japanese and Chinese as well as English and French, and generates an average of 76 million page views per month (by way of comparison, Net-a‑Porter tots up 85 million). While its online stock totals some 50,000 items by more than 500 designers, what appears on Rue Saint-Sulpice is a tight edit that is refreshed weekly.

The David Chipperfield-designed space | Image: Alexi Hobbs

The David Chipperfield-designed space | Image: Alexi Hobbs

At the fore of the store’s displays are a series of collaborations and exclusives, from Prada and Maison Margiela capsule collections, to quick-strike sneaker drops by Nike x Virgil Abloh – all of which have been bestsellers. “We’re good at ID-ing up-and-coming designers,” says Firas, adding that Ssense was the first retailer to offer Random Identities, the menswear brand created by former YSL head Stefano Pilati. “We place our orders around six to eight months in advance, and have a certain vision of what will be popular.” For women, this might be a skintight, moon-print poloneck by French designer Marine Serre (£255) or a Loewe petite Puzzle bag (£1,850); for men, a quilted-down Moncler Wilson jacket in a lacquered emerald-green finish (£1,065) or silver Adidas Originals Ozweego trainers by Raf Simons (£330). 

Marine Serre moon-print jersey poloneck, £255 | Image: Alexi Hobbs

Marine Serre moon-print jersey poloneck, £255 | Image: Alexi Hobbs

“What really differentiates us, though, is our appointment system,” says Firas, explaining that an online wish list can be summoned to the store and tried on for size in one of eight sleek fitting rooms – with the help of a personal stylist if one so wishes. “Moreover, we want to have a cultural impact, featuring people who create things in music, architecture, art, fashion. We want Ssense to be fun.” Events have included book signings, artist talks, private dinners and an atmospheric installation of Craig Green’s collaboration with Moncler against a mechanical backdrop by London-based spatial designers Isabel + Helen.

Topping off the retail experience on the fifth floor are a reading room and café. There’s certainly nothing new about an in-store café, but here, in sleek Chipperfield style, with a glass ceiling giving unobstructed views of the sky above, the concept seems anything but old. 

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Sease: Italian yachtwear with high-fashion heritage ahoy

This Milan destination store harbours stylish, high-tech sailing kit that’s perfectly suited for both the regatta circuit and the streets of Mayfair

This Milan destination store harbours stylish, high-tech sailing kit that’s perfectly suited for both the regatta circuit and the streets of Mayfair

Its name is a portmanteau of “sea” and “ease” – a neat way to sum up this Milanese boutique’s stylish own-brand sailing gear, linked to one of the most illustrious names in Italian textiles – that of Loro Piana. The famed fabric house was founded in 1924 by Pietro Loro Piana; two years ago his nephew’s grandsons, brothers Franco and Giacomo, struck out on their own to create Sease. “Our clothing is for people who spend their free time in nature,” says Franco. “They wear our designs on the water or off-piste – and return to the city and wear them on the back of a scooter.”

All the clothing at Sease is produced with sustainability in mind | Image: Valentina Sommariva

All the clothing at Sease is produced with sustainability in mind | Image: Valentina Sommariva


Leveraging their fashion heritage alongside an inherited love of boats (their father, Loro Piana deputy chairman Pier Luigi, hosts – and often races in – the annual Loro Piana Superyacht Regatta in Sardinia), the duo have created what Franco calls a “360-degree lifestyle brand”. It’s a combination of performance kit and exquisitely made leisurewear that appeals to serious sailors – Dario Noseda, who crossed the Atlantic solo in his 7m Starboat, and Luca Bassani, founder of Wally Yachts, are both ardent fans – as well as bankers and architects “who are demanding about quality and design detail”. They come to the refined Brera district shop for signature pieces such as the tailored High Pressure spray top (€895) and the Upwind windbreaker (€1,095), which, in rich shades of navy and brick red, are among Sease’s most functional, fashionable makes.

The fabrics are, of course, key, and hew to the traditional. “Everything is made in Italy and we use mostly natural fibres,” says Franco. “They aren’t as hardcore as techno-nylon fabrics, but sometimes our garments outperform the sports brands.” Linen shorts (€450), for instance, are reinforced with Kevlar for maximum durability, polyester is often recycled and the Sunrise fabric combines wool with bio-based nylon – “treated with an innovative hydrophilic membrane that is resistant to water and wind”, Franco explains, and used on the smart hooded George jacket (€1,350). Sustainability isn’t an afterthought at Sease, says Giacomo: “We love the outdoors – our business is built around the mountains and the sea – and we’re committed to a low-impact, environmentally sensitive supply chain.” 

Everything is showcased with aplomb in a two-storey, nautically inspired space, where the teak, carbon and canvas finishes synonymous the world over with boating abound. At every turn the Sease mantra of “elegance with functionality” is evident, from the tables of T-shirts (€130) and reversible cashmere jumpers (€750), all in a tasteful, subdued colour palette, to the racks of wool/cashmere Skipper sweatshirts (€550) and denim piqué polo shirts (€195). There are accessories, too, including sunglasses (€450) from LGR and solar-powered backpacks (€495), while a DJ booth and the odd Frescobol Carioca wooden skateboard (€980) add to the modern, masculine vibe of this shop “where you’re encouraged to hang out”.

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Serious ski kit from a burgeoning Aspen brand

Aztech Mountain creates high-tech kit with off-piste style

Aztech Mountain creates high-tech kit with off-piste style

For those preparing to hit the slopes, Aztech Mountain’s high-altitude e-shop has high-performance clothing covered – and very stylishly so. The Aspen, Colorado-based skiwear specialist was founded in 2013 by passionate skiers Anthony Rutgers and David Roth, and later joined by six-time Olympic medallist and World Cup champion Bode Miller. This is kit designed with hardcore skiers in mind but transitions easily to everyday urban life.

Aztech Mountain stretch-nylon Capitol Peak jacket, $1,300, and stretch-nylon ski pants, $725

Aztech Mountain stretch-nylon Capitol Peak jacket, $1,300, and stretch-nylon ski pants, $725


Aztech Mountain’s jackets in particular have developed a cult-like following. The wool Multi Nuke jacket ($1,895), for example, fuses a high-tech waterproof yet breathable wool fabric (called Schoeller C-Change) with stretch nylon to provide streamlined protection, while the Hayden 3 Layer Shell jacket ($895) is a versatile and lightweight option made more with spring skiing in mind – and comes in colour combinations of black, white and Aspen green. The tech specifics are clearly detailed for each item, from information on ventilation and waterproofing to powder skirts, detachable hoods and practical pockets – along with “Bode’s Notes”, a short anecdote about what makes that piece special from both a stylistic and performance perspective. 


Aztech Mountain wool and stretch-nylon Multi Nuke jacket, $1,895

Aztech Mountain wool and stretch-nylon Multi Nuke jacket, $1,895


Aztech Mountain wool Lenado shirt/jacket, $795

Aztech Mountain wool Lenado shirt/jacket, $795



The Aztech Mountain ski pants ($725) are “warm but lightweight, with tons of stretch and an elongated waistband that keeps me comfortable while skiing hard,” says Miller; the quilted Lenado plaid shirt/jacket ($795) is his “favourite outer layer on warm spring days while ripping groomers”. Rounding out the ruggedly chic offerings are laidback merino-wool-blend sweatpants ($350) and technical layers such as the Ashcroft sweater ($475), which combines Italian yarn with a water-repellent Teflon coating and a print inspired by the peaks of Colorado’s Roaring Fork Valley. 


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Alára: an ode to African creativity in Lagos

This dramatic, multilevel David Adjaye-designed Lagos concept store celebrates pan-African craft, from fashion to furnishings

This dramatic, multilevel David Adjaye-designed Lagos concept store celebrates pan-African craft, from fashion to furnishings

“People don’t come here for basics, but for glamour,” says Reni Folawiyo, founder of Nigerian concept store Alára. Set in the burgeoning Victoria Island district of Lagos, the space is a design lovers’ dream: a multi-level theatrical building by Ghanaian-British architect David Adjaye that hosts an eclectic mix of fashion, art, furnishings and decorative objects – some sourced in Europe, but many more from other parts of Africa, including the mountains of Morocco.

Alára – or “wondrous performer” in Yoruba – was chosen by Folawiyo “because there are so many performance elements to the space,” she says of the store’s calendar of fashion shows, art exhibits and pop-ups – plus the bustle of Nok, the restaurant tucked behind the main building. It is helmed by experimental Senegalese chef Pierre Thiam, who takes classics of African cooking to new epicurean heights.


A selection of Gillian Fuller bead cuffs, $77 each, on a Danye woven placemat, $87 | Image: Lex Ash

A selection of Gillian Fuller bead cuffs, $77 each, on a Danye woven placemat, $87 | Image: Lex Ash


It was a casual conversation with fashion designer Duro Olowu that led to the selection of Adjaye for this bold project to celebrate pan-African craft. “He’s African and shared my vision of discovery and wonder immediately. This was an emotional endeavour for everyone involved, as we all want our country to do well,” says Folawiyo. The result of their collaboration is a dramatic three-storey glass and metal-clad structure that’s inspired by both traditional Yoruban adire textile patterns and the saturated red colours of the Nigerian soil.

Behind the striking façade, items are displayed exhibition style; the first floor is dedicated to women’s clothing labels such as YSL, Dries Van Noten and Duro Olowu, though it is the kaleidoscopic dresses ($1,000) by Nigerian talent Amaka Osakwe that embody the Alára ethos. “Her collections [for Maki Oh] tell stories in interesting and contemporary ways and are very grounded in her culture,” Folawiyo says of Osakwe’s locally dyed silk and adire creations. Colourful accessories include beaded cuffs ($77) by South African Gillian Fuller, and iridescent earrings ($300) from Danish jeweller Monies.

A robust menswear offering “is focused on creative, informal weekend wear that is suited to the tropics,” says Folawiyo, citing jackets ($400) by Post-Imperial and cool kaftans ($300) by local designer Kenneth Ize. Customised Cartier and Rolex watches (from $33,000) by MAD Paris, rhodium and rose-gold Tateossian cufflinks (from $300) and grooming staples including Men’s Society beard oil and brushes ($100 per set) stand out on display against Adjaye’s wenge-wood finishes. 

But what makes this shopping experience so special is the continually changing finds from Folawiyo’s colourful buying trips. On any given day, embroidered Tuareg trunks from Mali might sit beside sculptures from Senegal and Burkina Faso, furniture discovered at Milan’s Salone del Mobile, north African Berber carpets ($2,000) and origami-inspired Lumio lights ($300).

But the beating heart of the store lies in those pieces created by local talents. “We encourage young African designers to pull from their rich history and culture,” says Folawiyo. “Most of all, we just hope kids will come in and see the limitless design possibilities…”

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High-tech rowing kit with serious pedigree

Scull & Sweep offers all the equipment required for days spent on the water

Scull & Sweep offers all the equipment required for days spent on the water

Rowing calls for kit that’s not only windproof and waterproof, but smart too. New e-tailer Scull & Sweep has just such a cache of stylish gear, thanks to an impeccable pedigree: the site’s founders are Phil Russo, former global creative director for US shoemaker Cole Haan, and industrial designer Nancy Lin, who has Fila and Converse on her CV, while the chairman and CEO is Howard Winklevoss – founder of RowAmerica and father of rowing legends Cameron and Tyler.

Polyamide Regatta Training jacket, from $120, and cotton cap, $25

Polyamide Regatta Training jacket, from $120, and cotton cap, $25


For action on the water, standouts include the Regatta Training jacket (from $120) in neon yellow or orange that’s water resistant, lightweight and designed to reduce friction, and the Half-Zip Training top ($66), with a wind collar. Cool cotton caps ($25) come emblazoned with the brand’s skull and crossed oars logo, while durable, lightweight duffel bags ($175) are great for carrying the whole kit and caboodle, from cold-morning beanies ($25) and jazzy black and neon-yellow Rowing Life Training socks ($15) to Sore No More rubber seat pads ($40) and water bottles (from $5).

For rowing-club members, Scull & Sweep offers performance-focused reworkings of the classic blazer. The men’s Regatta blazer ($275) is made of a comfortable two-way stretch fabric in rich navy-black with contrasting white lapel piping, and so works both as outerwear for inclement weather and as a smart club jacket. The slimmer-silhouetted women’s version (also $275) has a pop of colour on the folding cuffs. Both can be customised with club logos.


The polyamide Regatta blazer ($275) works as both outerwear and a smart club jacket

The polyamide Regatta blazer ($275) works as both outerwear and a smart club jacket


For Henley or Harvard alumni – or simply those with romantic notions of university regattas – Scull & Sweep offers a prime piece of escapism. Whether one’s passion is sculling – two-oared rowing – or sweeping with just one oar, or simply working out with an indoor machine, this site offers all the equipment required.


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Hollywood’s master milliner

Nick Fouquet’s Los Angeles store is a hat-lover’s mecca

Nick Fouquet’s Los Angeles store is a hat-lover’s mecca

 It was a surfing injury that led to the creation of Nick Fouquet’s thriving hat business. “During my recuperation, I learnt about garment and accessory design from Christophe Loiron, who runs Mister Freedom, a vintage clothing store and retro-inspired workwear line in LA,” says Fouquet. “I’m passionate about hats and making them just clicked with me; it’s the perfect way to express myself.”

The New York-born model-cum-milliner grew up in France and moved to LA in 2008. Three years ago he set up shop in a craftsman bungalow on the edge of bohemian-chic Venice. In his onsite workshop, kitted out with vintage flocking machines and flanges (blocks), Fouquet handmakes the super-cool fedora styles that attract the likes of Kate Moss, Georgia May Jagger, Anne Hathaway, Madonna and Bob Dylan. The accompanying boutique space exudes a “homey, comfortable” vibe, displaying on wooden tables and crate-like shelves some 40 to 50 hats in a profusion of different styles and colours.

Straw Coco Palm, $625 | Image: Patrick Fraser

Straw Coco Palm, $625 | Image: Patrick Fraser

“Many are unisex and seasonless,” says Fouquet, whose made-to-measure bestsellers include the Raven ($1,325) – a classic black design with a low crown that’s distressed and embellished with linen – and the Maritime ($1,175), a reversible fedora with a short brim. “These hats are all really wearable, but some are more eccentric, more theatrical.” Among the more statement-making, ready-to-wear chapeaux are the Burning Man ($1,975) – a tie-dye open-crown fedora with a Cayman crocodile band and striking electric blue feather – and the Little Cypress ($1,375), a teardrop fedora available in shades from granite to subtle gold.

“Our signature hats are made from 100 per cent beaver-fur felt,” explains Fouquet, who is often on hand to personally fit his toppers. “Our felt is American, sustainably harvested and of a very high quality.” The hats are then subjected to Fouquet’s trademark finishes – they are variously steamed, burned (with a blowtorch) and sanded (“to give them a silky finish”). Each features a roan sheepskin sweatband, as well as a decorative grosgrain or leather hatband, while the array of embellishments ranges from vintage silver charms from New Mexico and exotic feathers sourced in Macau to Parisian flea-market finds. Finally, each hat has a matchstick tucked into the band. “It’s a strike-anywhere match,” says Fouquet, “and it symbolises the spark of creativity.”

There are straw hats available too, such as the pink Coco Palm ($625) and the purple Aquapulco ($650), which has a bandana in lieu of a band. And Fouquet will also work with clients on custom creations (from $600 for straw, $1,100 for felt), which take 12 weeks to complete.

“Hats are the pinnacle of elegance,” says Fouquet, who has recently collaborated with 150-year-old luxury Italian hat brand Borsalino and has been stocked at Browns in London since 2015. “They are an undervalued accessory that can transform a look, make a statement. I believe there is a hat for everyone, but you’ve got to wear it with confidence.”

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A chic coat from a new niche label

Permanent Collection presents a clutch of timeless classics

Permanent Collection presents a clutch of timeless classics

I’m approaching winter this year with a certain glee, as I have a new coat ready and waiting in the wings. The navy-blue boiled-wool Yvonne coat ($950, also available in Loden green) from recently launched line Permanent Collection caught my eye with its pared-down silhouette and meticulous attention to detail. In a belted, almost bathrobe-like style with a full funnel collar, it can look both casual and unstructured worn with slouchy jeans as well as creating a more cinched, put-together profile paired with tailored trousers. It’s a particularly flattering fit on my shorter-than-average frame and features sumptuous silk-lined sleeves and deep pockets.


Permanent Collection porcelain cups, $350 for four

Permanent Collection porcelain cups, $350 for four


I have the distinct feeling that my made-in-New-York coat will be a wardrobe workhorse for many seasons to come, and therein lies the crux of this new label created by London-based Californians Mariah Nielson and Fanny Singer. All the Permanent Collection pieces are meant to be just that: permanent, timeless and elegant clothing and accessories based on classic designs. The wool/crepe Agnes coat ($1,200), for example, takes a tuxedo jacket as its starting point, while a pair of simple French leather slider sandals ($350) have been ever-so-slightly reimagined.


Permanent Collection leather slider sandals, $350

Permanent Collection leather slider sandals, $350


Founders Nielson and Singer – the daughter of celebrated chef Alice Waters – were both studying design and art history when they met at a party in 2012, so it’s not surprising that their tightly edited debut range combines clothing and accessories with a four-piece set of sculptural porcelain cups ($350), inspired by the designs of Nielson’s father, celebrated artist JB Blunk. And their second collection, which debuts in November, will see scarves and jewellery added to their stylish offering.


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Missoni's Hands-Off Fashion Executive

CEO Emilio Carbonera Giani sees positive long-term results thanks to a laissez-faire approach.

CEO Emilio Carbonera Giani sees positive long-term results thanks to a laissez-faire approach.

You’ve spent your career in fashion—at Valentino, Salvatore Ferragamo, and the menswear brand Caruso. What has been your path?

I started in banking and then moved into textiles, which led me to the Marzotto Group, the then-owner of Valentino. From there I went on to Ferragamo, where I worked with my mentor, [former CEO] Michele Norsa. Caruso was completely different because it’s a very small company and focused exclusively on bespoke suiting. The common thread throughout my work has been that in Italy, most of the luxury fashion brands are family-owned. Working with families has major advantages: They tend to make decisions with a longer-term view, rather than being focused on short-term results or dealing with shareholders.

You’ve been COO of Missoni since 2015. What have been the biggest changes under your tenure?

I have focused on e-commerce—an important area for us—as well as next steps for merchandising. In two or three years I hope we’ll be able to add accessories like small bags and leather goods.

Where are the next big markets for Missoni?

China—and there are opportunities in India, but not in the short term. The luxury market is still very small there, and while there are many affluent people, it is just starting to grow for us. The U.S. is a traditionally strong market, so we’ll keep that up while focusing on the Far East—Thailand and Vietnam—and South America.

How would you describe your management style? 

I tend to be very practical: direct and to the point, sometimes too much so. I don’t micromanage. Our offices are set in Varese, in the countryside, and most of the staff lives in and around this area, and the office culture reflects that.

Missoni has an interesting strategy around monobrand boutiques vs. multi-brand stores. How do you select where to sell and why?

We’re a small company and can’t open thousands of stand-alone boutiques—we currently have nine—and the look of the collection works well for multi-brand stores, like Shin Kong Place in Beijing. Major department stores are our biggest point of sale. In terms of stand-alone stores, Paris is our most successful, despite the difficult times there, followed by Rome, Milan, and New York.

Who is your core customer? 

Americans, Germans, the British, and Middle Eastern clients are all very important, and Italians make up 10 percent of our sales. Our customer appreciates our creative process: We dye the yarn, weave the fabrics, and create the color pattern combinations. Our things are artisanal from the start through to the finished product, and this isn’t common in most fashion houses.

What is next for Missoni?

We’ll continue to develop [our less-expensive line] M Missoni, which is very important to the overall business and to our licensees. There aren’t any near-term collaborations like we did with Target, but we’ll continue to partner with other companies that are the top in their category. We’ve had recent successful partnerships with Converse and Havaianas, and we’ll continue to do more of these. On the residential side, we’re doing the Missoni Baia residences in Miami with developer Vladislav Doronin. This project allows us to offer a full image of Missoni to the world. We’ve done previous hotel projects—in Kuwait and Edinburgh, Scotland—and we weren’t particularly happy with them, so now we select partners very carefully and only link our name to super first-class properties.

What is luxury now? 

It’s something very personal. Something you can’t find everywhere. Luxury is scarcity.


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Rosetta Getty talks personal taste

Rosetta Getty is the founder of her eponymous womenswear brand, known for its minimal, elegant pieces with sophisticated silhouettes

Rosetta Getty is the founder of her eponymous womenswear brand, known for its minimal, elegant pieces with sophisticated silhouettes

My personal style signifiers are vintage Levi’s 501 jeans, white or black T-shirts, and button-down shirts of my own design. I like a uniform that is clean, classic and a bit predictable but that also has a slightly quirky edge. I wear these staple pieces with my new favourite running shoes – in either black or white – by Athletic Propulsion Labs. My clothes are all about comfort and moving from the school run to work to a business lunch and then out to dinner. $165;www.athleticpropulsionlabs.com. www.levi.com.

Mussel Shell sculpture by Carol Bove, price on request

Mussel Shell sculpture by Carol Bove, price on request


The last thing I bought and loved was a simple Jil Sander Panama-style straw hat that I have been living in. I often wear hats, but have never loved one this much. It’s a bit precious so I have to put it in a box when I travel. And I recently added a pair of ultra-thin, delicate hoop earrings in 14ct gold by LA-based designer Kathleen Whitaker to my jewellery collection, along with a pair of dangly gold earrings that I found in the Céline boutique in Florence; they look beautiful with casual or dressy clothes. £310; www.celine.com. $145 per earring; www.kathleenwhitaker.com.

And the thing I’m eyeing next is a sculpture by New York-based artist Carol Bove. I am a fan of sculpture generally, but I particularly love her use of natural materials and organic shapes. She employs lines in her assemblages I am drawn toward. www.davidzwirner.com.


Café Gratitude almond I Am Joy chocolates, $3 each

Café Gratitude almond I Am Joy chocolates, $3 each


A recent “find” is Ceri Vintage & Factory, an amazing, under-the-radar vintage store in Florence. It specialises in workwear from the 1920s to the 1970s, and I found leather jackets, wide-legged trousers and the most amazing vintage Levi’s there. Two of my daughters are now wearing all of my clothes, so I am trying to fill in the wardrobe gaps – this boutique was a huge help. Via de’ Serragli 26/R, 50124 Florence (+39335-839 0356).

Getty’s Jil Sander straw hat | Image: Patrick Fraser

Getty’s Jil Sander straw hat | Image: Patrick Fraser


The item in my wardrobe that I’ll keep to pass on is my entire vintage collection – hopefully to my girls one day. Though if I had to pick one piece, it would at the moment be a black wool stretch dress by Comme des Garçons from one of Rei Kawakubo’s first collections. www.comme-des-garcons.com.


Her Céline gold earrings, £310, Cartier diamond ring and Kathleen Whitaker gold hoop earrings, $145 each | Image: Patrick Fraser

Her Céline gold earrings, £310, Cartier diamond ring and Kathleen Whitaker gold hoop earrings, $145 each | Image: Patrick Fraser


The last meal that truly impressed me was at Defune in Marylebone. I have been going there for 15 years but recently rediscovered it with my children when we were staying at Chiltern Firehouse just around the corner. The space is tiny – like a Japanese café – but for an elevated dining experience you can opt for the more formal downstairs area. We loved the casual family feel upstairs, as well as the fresh sashimi and creative maki sushi rolls. The whole experience felt entirely authentic. 34 George St, London W1 (020‑7935 8311; www.defune.co.uk).

The best souvenirs I’ve brought home are exquisitely embroidered cushions from Emporio Le Sirenuse, Carla Sersale’s shop at Le Sirenuse Hotel in Positano. We visit the area every year, and her beautiful things make the best mementoes. These particular cushions are in neutral tones, but she has brighter versions as well. I always bring back her simple, soft cotton loungewear as well – I wear these pieces as pyjamas. From £164; Via Cristoforo Colombo 103, Positano (+39089-811 468; www.emporiosirenuse.com).

An indulgence I would never forgo is almond I Am Joy chocolates from Café Gratitude in Los Angeles. They’re delicious and deceptively healthy, made of shredded coconut, almonds and a hard chocolate shell, with no added sugar. $3 each; 639 N Larchmont Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90004 (+1323-580 6383; www.cafegratitude.com).

The best gift I’ve received recently was a square Cartier diamond solitaire, c1930 – from my husband [Balthazar Getty] on our 15th wedding anniversary. I’m not typically a diamond person, but this one is so unusual. It’s very masculine, which I love, and it’s just perfect for me. www.cartier.co.uk.

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Phillip Lim talks personal taste: Part One

Phillip Lim’s womenswear combines street cool and tailored femininity, while his CFDA award-winning menswear exudes contemporary minimalism

Phillip Lim’s womenswear combines street cool and tailored femininity, while his CFDA award-winning menswear exudes contemporary minimalism

My personal style signifier is dressing in navy blue – whether that’s jeans, a jumpsuit or a tailored jacket – and I always have a scarf to hand. I like them for all seasons, in every fabric – wool, cashmere, silk and lighter linens; I collect them wherever I travel. I am a classicist at heart but always like to have an edge.

Lim’s brass Tibetan prayer bowl from a trip to the Himalayas | Image: Weston Wells

Lim’s brass Tibetan prayer bowl from a trip to the Himalayas | Image: Weston Wells


The last thing I bought and loved was a Santa Clara Pueblo vase from New Mexico. The beautiful redware pottery reminds me of the light on buildings in towns I visited there, like Santa Fe and Las Cruces.

And the thing I’m eyeing next is a Conoid bench [pictured] by American woodworker George Nakashima. I’m inspired by things that incorporate nature and show the hand of the artisan; this sculptural piece is a hefty plank of wood, the grain clearly visible, with a simple back and legs. It would look great in the living room of my loft. About $15,000; www.nakashimawoodworker.com.


Sound & Color by Alabama Shakes

Sound & Color by Alabama Shakes


The last music I downloaded was the Alabama Shakes album Sound & Color. It combines elements of jazz, blues and Southern rock into a totally modern sound. I equate them with someone like Amy Winehouse – a disrupter, a fresh voice on the contemporary music scene.

American black walnut Conoid bench by George Nakashima, about $15,000 | Image: George Nakashima Woodworker

American black walnut Conoid bench by George Nakashima, about $15,000 | Image: George Nakashima Woodworker


A recent “find” is a store called Cowboys and Indians in Albuquerque, New Mexico. It is filled with antique treasures, from Navajo rugs to Cherokee baskets and jewellery. I bought some beautiful 1930s Mexican silver and turquoise bracelets. 4000 Central Ave SE, Albuquerque, NM 87108 (+1505-255 4054; www.cowboysandindiansantiques.com).


Bronze A Muse, 1917, by Constantin Brâncusi | Image: © Bridgeman Images © ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2016

Bronze A Muse, 1917, by Constantin Brâncusi | Image: © Bridgeman Images © ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2016


The sight that inspires me is the Atlantic Ocean, as seen from the East End of Long Island. I call this stretch the “green velvet rage” because the combination of sand and rolling waves creates a particular colour. It clears my mind and fills me with gratitude.


Hermès Poivre Samarcande, £167 for 100ml EDT

Hermès Poivre Samarcande, £167 for 100ml EDT


The last meal that truly impressed me was a dinner en plein air at North Brooklyn Farms, a community green space in Williamsburg. The early fall night was magical and we ate with a view of the Manhattan skyline. The food was prepared by Williamsburg farm-to-table restaurant Marlow & Sons, and the burrata, poached bass with shaved fennel and peach-basil macaroons were very special. Everyone – even guests who have been all over the world and are hard to impress – was seduced by the meal’s simplicity. 320 Kent Ave, New York, NY 11249 (www.northbrooklynfarms.com).

The artists whose work I would collect if I could are Constantin Brâncus¸i – his sculptures often inform my designs – and Francis Bacon, whose work is classical yet savage, beautiful yet grotesque.

The best souvenir I’ve brought home is a brass Tibetan prayer bowl from when we shot our fall 2015 campaign in the Himalayas. It is traditionally used in monasteries to cleanse the atmosphere and makes a beautiful sound. It sits in my living room and reminds me of a trip that perfectly combined work and play.

The grooming staples I’m never without include Poivre Samarcande fragrance by Hermès, which I wear all the time; it is subtle yet distinctive, so I don’t smell like everyone else. I like the Eye and Lip Smoother from Australian skincare line Sodashi because it’s free from parabens and anything artificial, and Como Shambhala’s Invigorate Shampoo, which is very refreshing. Como Shambhala Invigorate Shampoo, £14 for 300ml; www.comoshambhala.com. Hermès Poivre Samarcande, £167 for 100ml EDT; www.hermes.com. Sodashi Eye and Lip Smoother, £90 for 30ml; www.sodashi.co.uk.

An indulgence I would never forgo is my triple black Porsche 911 Turbo. This is my fourth – I trade them in every three years – and I love to drive it out east at the weekend. It’s called Beyoncé.

My favourite websites are OliverGustav.com for this Danish designer’s made-to-order furniture; HavenShop.ca, a Canadian men’s streetwear site; TheEndofHistoryShop.blogspot.com for ceramics and gift ideas; and NYTimes.com for daily news.

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Phillip Lim talks personal taste: Part Two

The fashion designer rounds up his list of likes with spicy sauces, a thirst for Buddhist knowledge and rebooting in his steam shower

The fashion designer rounds up his list of likes with spicy sauces, a thirst for Buddhist knowledge and rebooting in his steam shower

My style icons are people who have confidence in their looks combined with a slight eccentricity, such as designers Stefano Pilati and Phoebe Philo. Fashion blogger Leandra Medine – aka Man Repeller – carries herself with great style and confidence as well. These three look true to themselves; they’re not trying too hard.

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Bhutan. This country is literally heaven on earth; it’s both geographically stunning and incredibly spiritual as it’s the last Buddhist kingdom. I stayed in a series of Aman Resorts and each one was individual and authentic. www.aman.com.

Image: Weston Wells

Image: Weston Wells


The last item I added to my wardrobe was a pair of suede hiking boots from my menswear line, for navigating the streets of New York in style throughout the seasons, and several handwoven scarves [second picture] embellished with tribal patterns that I picked up on a trip to Ethiopia.

In my fridge you’ll always find a variety of hot sauces – including Sriracha, Cholula and my mother’s very spicy, secret blend – which I use on vegetables and meat dishes; fresh fruit and veg; ginger for cooking; coconut water; and unpasteurised sake.

If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose SoHo in New York, where you can find everything in a tight radius. I love If for high-fashion labels you can no longer find easily elsewhere, and De Vera for rare objects and curiosities. Modernlink is great for Scandinavian furniture, while Double Knot is a wonderful shop full of vintage and one-of-a-kind carpets. The excellent local butcher, Japan Premium Beef, has the best cuts of meat. De Vera, 1 Crosby St (+1212-625 0838; www.deveraobjects.com). Double Knot, 13 White St (+212-966 9113; www.double-knot.com). If, 94 Grand St (+1212-334 4964; www.ifsohonewyork.com). Japan Premium Beef, 57 Great Jones St (+1212-260 2333). Modernlink, 35 Bond St (+1212-254 1300; www.modernlink.com).

The best gift I’ve given recently was a first birthday party for my godson. It was held at a children’s play centre called Kidville in Brooklyn and included a great group of people – both young and old. Turning one is a huge accomplishment and I was happy to celebrate with him. 808 Union St, Brooklyn, NY 11215 (+1718-569 2150; www.kidville.com/parkslope).


Image: Tadasu Yamamoto

Image: Tadasu Yamamoto


And the best one I’ve received recently was a brass bangle from my guide on a trip to Ethiopia. He belonged to the Amhara and I admired his stack of bracelets that jangled to make music. He took one off and presented it to me. It was such a personal and meaningful gesture.

An object I would never part with is a black naga stone given to me by the queen mother of Bhutan, Gyalyum Sangay Choden Wangchuck. I was introduced to her on a recent visit through a mutual friend and we had a very special connection. She insists I must have been Bhutanese in a past life and gave me this very special holy stone from her garden. It now sits in my bedroom at my home in SoHo.

Image: Divine Light Photography

Image: Divine Light Photography


My favourite room in my house is my steam shower. It’s a spare, simple space and the place I go to relax and reboot.

If I didn’t live in New York, the city I would live in is Tokyo, where each neighbourhood has a distinctive feel; it’s a city of both chaos and convenience. From Aoyama to Daikanyama to Omotesando, I love the original street style and the diversity of architecture, the great food, vintage shopping and excellent hotels such as the Park Hyatt. And I’d like to spend more time exploring Naoshima’s “art island” with its incredible museums, including the Benesse House Museum [third picture] and Ando Museum, and high-tech installations. The Japanese treat everyone with respect and they all possess a certain elegance. Ando Museum, 736-2 Naoshima, Kagawa (+8187-892 3754;www.benesse-artsite.jp/en). Benesse House Museum, Gotanji, Naoshima, Kagawa (+8187-892 3223; www.benesse-artsite.jp/en).Park Hyatt Tokyo, 3-7-1-2 Nishi Shinjuku, Shinjuku-Ku (+813-5322 1234; www.tokyo.park.hyatt.com).


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The people I rely on for personal grooming and wellbeing are Mark Bustos of Three Squares Studio [fourth picture] for my regular haircut – he’s a great stylist and gives haircuts to the homeless every Sunday, which I think says a lot about him; and my physio Dr Nina Figueroa of Base Physical Therapy, who keeps me aligned. Base Physical Therapy, 47 West 14th St, New York, NY 10011 (+1917-533 4535; www.basept.net). Three Squares Studio, 444 West 17th St, New York, NY 10011 (+1917-847 3384; www.threesquaresstudio.com).

The books on my bedside table include Creativity, Inc. [fifth picture] by Pixar president Ed Catmull, and Start Where You Are by Pema Chödrön, which is all about developing compassion towards others. I also have The Diamond Cutter – a book that fuses Tibetan Buddhism with practical business strategy. I love self-help books and acquiring knowledge.

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be a farmer with plenty of land to harvest and lots of sunshine. In an ideal world, I’d be a seaweed farmer in Thailand so I could be near the ocean as well.

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The Ascendance of Joseph Altuzarra

Exquisite tailoring and embellishment are the hallmarks of the young designer's ever-evolving aesthetic.

Exquisite tailoring and embellishment are the hallmarks of the young designer's ever-evolving aesthetic.

An acute eye for detail, texture, and color place Joseph Altuzarra in a league of his own. With ready-to-wear collections inspired by everything from 18th-century dandies, to Truman Capote’s stylish “swans,” to circa 1950 American railroad workers, New York–based Altuzarra is the thinking woman’s designer. His refined pieces—in a wide range of fabrics and finishes, including linen, leather, burlap, and velvet—all tell a visual story, and often incorporate parts of the designer’s Franco-American background, as well as his love of literature, film, and dance.

Raised in Paris by a Chinese-American mother and a French father, Altuzarra studied ballet before heading to the U.S. to pursue a degree in art history at Swarthmore College. It was through these studies that his eyes were opened to the world of fashion, one that he went on to learn about from the ground up, working at maisons on both sides of the Atlantic. With early experiences at Marc Jacobs and Proenza Schouler in New York, followed by an apprenticeship with patternmaker and former Rochas head Nicolas Caito, and after a role as first assistant to Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy, Altuzarra launched his eponymous line in 2008.

In just eight years the brand has become synonymous with feminine tailoring and a sophisticated-yet-playful aesthetic, with expansion continuing beyond the designer’s signature thigh-high slit skirts, vibrant silk blouses, flowy dresses, and fitted jackets. A minority investment by Kering in 2013 helped fuel the addition of a handbag line that includes a mix of casually structured shapes in everything from smooth calf to Sfumato leather to luxurious crocodile. It all culminated in 2014, when he was awarded the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s prestigious Womenswear Designer of the Year award.

Altuzarra’s spring/summer 2016 collection marks the next chapter in the designer’s multicultural, artistic exploration. It was the discovery of a book, Wilder Mann by Charles Fréger, featuring photographs of pagan rituals from the Basque region of France, that spurred the creation of this latest assortment of effortless, dip-dyed linen dresses and coats—as well as the exquisite mother of pearl and broderie anglaise embellishments that adorn them. Surface recently met with Altuzarra at his Soho atelier to discuss the influence of his banker parents, whom he credits with his pragmatism; his favorite campy films; and the role his husband, Seth Weissman, as well as friends including Alexander Wang and Vanessa Traina, play in his creative process.

You were born to a Chinese-American mother and French-Basque father. How does your background inform your design aesthetic?

It’s central to how I think about fashion and clothes and also my process. There is a duality between my French and American sides: I grew up in Paris surrounded by film and dance, so I have that French sensibility. On the other side, I’ve always been fascinated by American culture and the pragmatism, ease, and comfort it embodies. The marriage of these two sides of my personality is the Altuzarra brand.

I’ve read that you love film. Are there any movies that have been particularly impactful for you?

My parents love movies, and I grew up surrounded by all genres. One film that was particularly important was Si Versailles m’était conté [Royal Affairs in Versailles (1957)]. I watched this sprawling epic about life at Versailles over and over again, and the campy evolution of the costumes fascinated me. I also loved anything with Audrey Hepburn—Sabrina (1954) was a favorite—and tended toward less mainstream films as a teenager. Orlando (1992) had a huge effect on me because it was more ambiguous in its narrative.

Why did you choose to study at Swarthmore, and why art history?

Growing up bilingual with a Chinese-American mother, I always knew I wanted to study in the U.S. None of my classmates were going abroad for university at that time, and there were no SAT prep classes. I happened to see the film Ten Things I Hate About You (1999) in which the star ends up at Sarah Lawrence College. I looked it up online, and a box popped up saying, “If you like this school, you’ll also like Swarthmore, Amherst, Williams, Brown, and Haverford.” I applied to many of them, and one of my father’s colleagues suggested I go to Swarthmore. It was an incredible experience, as it was the first time I found my community—I was always nerdy in high school, and I finally felt free and surrounded by people like me. I loved studying art history: the analytical side of it, and the subjective way of looking at the world. I wrote an essay linking fashion advertising to classical art iconography, specifically about the influence of Toulouse-Lautrec on the Yves Saint Laurent Opium perfume advertisement with a naked Sophie Dahl. Art history spurred my love for fashion.

You had a very impressive CV prior to starting your own company. Did those experiences have an effect on the way you run your label?

When I worked at Proenza Schouler, there were just six people there, and I had no formal training or technical skills. I also apprenticed at Marc Jacobs just out of college, where I was lucky to be a part of that busy process. I went on to apprentice for Nicolas Caito at Rochas, where I learned the technical side of fashion design—pattern-making, draping—and this boosted my confidence greatly. Nicolas encouraged me to go back to Paris, where I met Riccardo [Tisci, creative director of Givenchy] and became his assistant for two years. I was so young and under-qualified, and he believed in me. He was a great mentor. I’m still incredibly grateful to him.

Your parents were both bankers and have been your biggest supporters. How did their business acumen help to launch the Altuzarra brand?

They made me a business-minded person, and I have always loved that side of the Altuzarra brand. My goal is success in design, but I always strive for financial success as well. Their involvement from the beginning—in the recession of 2008, no less—created a culture of frugality and an awareness of what we were spending. My mother, Karen, was the CEO of the brand for the first four years, before transitioning to our current CEO, Karis Durmer. My mom is still the chairman of the board and is actively involved in all aspects of the brand.

What was the inspiration for your first collection? Did you see a void in the market?

My first collection [spring/summer 2009] was born out of my wanting to create clothes that were sophisticated yet sexy, for a changing consumer. I was seeing women who were aging differently—through different nutrition and exercise—who wanted to be seductive and strong, but in an adult way. I saw women identifying with Meryl Streep, for example, who wanted to be the romantic lead in their own lives. That thought process has been the through-line for every collection since. Bottom line: Women want to be beautiful, not frumpy.

You create sophisticated, sexy clothes that combine a French and American sensibility. Is there a core customer? A muse?

[Stylists] Vanessa Traina and Melanie Huynh have been supporters since the very first season and represent the Altuzarra woman to me. These are women in their 30s, balancing full lives, who have an exacting, sophisticated sensibility. These women continue to inspire me, as do women like Julianne Moore and Nicole Kidman, who possess inherent style and self-confidence.

Who were your earliest champions?

Carine Roitfeld [former editor of Vogue Paris] has been an incredible mentor from the very beginning, even before my first collection. Mark Holgate is a great mentor and friend who set up my first meeting with Anna Wintour [editor of Vogue]. Funny story about my initial meeting with Anna: I was supposed to meet and present my collection to her the day after flying from Paris to New York, but the airline lost everything. She was gracious about rescheduling and has been an incredible supporter ever since. She called and got us into places like Barneys and Dover Street Market and really helped to launch the Altuzarra brand.

You’ve been the recipient of numerous awards: the CFDA Swarovski Award for Womenswear Design in 2012, the CFDA/ Vogue Fashion Fund Award in 2011, the CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year Award in 2014. Which one has been the most meaningful?

The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award in 2011 was a huge moment for me because it was a competition: months of work and dedication went into the process, and ultimately, it put us on the map.

You’ve designed costumes for the New York City Ballet. Would you like to do more theatrical design?

That collaboration came about through a summer share in Fire Island several years ago. My husband and I were in a house with choreographer Christopher Wheeldon, who was working with the New York City Ballet at the time. I’ve always loved ballet and studied dance throughout my childhood, so when he asked if I might be interested in designing costumes I jumped at the chance. I went to all of the rehearsals and saw the choreography in progress, and we came up with a very American, casual look for this piece, one that was all about light, flirty garments that would highlight the movement of the dancers.

You’ve collaborated with Target and J. Crew, among other brands. What makes such projects interesting?

As the winner of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award, I was invited to collaborate with J. Crew on a collection of six pieces—a dress, shirts, sweaters, shoes—that were inspired by a preppy American aesthetic, but also by Breton stripes and French gingham. I wanted to play with the codes of prep, and also introduce Brigitte Bardot shapes and 1950s styling to a wider audience.

What made the sale of a minority stake to Kering particularly interesting to you?

I was approached by [Kering CEO François Henri] Pinault, who is a wonderful person and has respect for designers and their process. I felt that he loved our brand and could add value, and the partnership has been hugely beneficial to us. From the logistics of production teams in Italy, to helping with the development of our handbags, to expertise in margins and world geographies, we’re always learning from Kering.

Last fall saw the launch of your first collection of handbags, inspired by bull riding whips from the American Southwest. What do you love about their hand-woven details?

It was our first product extension, so it had to embody the core values of Altuzarra. I wanted the bags to have a French/American duality, and also to be sexy with an easy sensibility. I didn’t want them to be hard or structured, and I was focused on incorporating folkloric craft. I found the braided whips while researching online and fell in love with the handcrafted aesthetic, as well as their sturdiness and practicality.

What was the inspiration for the hardware and the handles? Do these elements fuse your love of things both French and American?

The ends of cigarette lighters were the inspiration for the gold hardware on the bags, and this is definitely the French influence. The closures and handles were inspired by equestrian life, specifically American horse culture. I have incorporated elements of the New Mexican riding whips into everything from hobo bags to cross-body versions.

With a bag, form follows function—what makes your elegant yet utilitarian bags work?

I wanted the bags to be beautiful, but ultimately they have to work for today’s busy, professional, stylish woman. The braiding of the straps needs to be soft and malleable, handles need to fit over bulky coats, and they often need to hold heavy things like laptops, so they need to be sturdy. And I was adamant about them being easy to open and close with one hand. The bags feature inside/outside zips, light linen insides so that finding keys is easy, and covered magnet closures that actually work but also look good.

What bag shapes will we see next and in what leathers?

The first bags were less structured, more casual, while the next version will be a more formal shoulder bag in smooth calf.

What has been the most challenging part of handbag design? Was there something you didn’t know going in?

When designing clothes, you aren’t always thinking about functionality first. With handbags, however, you can’t design unless you know how the person will use it. Will it hold an iPhone? A computer? Papers? I also didn’t know much about attaching handles and the importance of a swivel feature.

Your husband works in property development in New York. How did you meet?

We met 10 years ago, were friends for five years, and we married in 2014. One anecdote that gives insight into his personality is the story of our engagement. Every Saturday morning we walk our dog, Bean, and one of us goes for coffee and the newspapers. On this particular Saturday, Seth went out, changed into a tuxedo, and put a “Will you marry me?” collar on the dog. I said yes, of course, and was greeted by the Swarthmore a cappella group singing “A Whole New World.” From there we went to Soho House for a surprise engagement brunch for 100 friends. The entire day was spectacular.

While you aren’t particularly part of a flashy fashion party set, many of your friends—Alexander Wang, Christopher Turnier, Vanessa Traina—are involved in that world. How were these friendships formed, and why do you choose to lay low?

Part of it comes from knowing that the fashion world is fickle. I want my happiness to be predicated on things outside of the industry. I think it’s important to have deep, real, long-lasting friendships that I don’t have to put on Instagram. I’m lucky to have friends who are true and constant.

If you had to pick three items you would never part with, what would they be?

My platinum engagement ring by James de Givenchy engraved with the lyrics to “Come Rain or Come Shine,” which was our wedding song. Another precious object is a Hermès diary given to me by mother when I was 18. It’s embossed with my initials and is now full of sketches. The last thing isn’t an item or an object, but is Bean, our almost-8-year-old mini-schnauzer.

What’s next for you?

I’m a slow and steady person. I believe you have to be careful and deliberate about what you put out there. That said, our next area of focus would likely be shoes, where I’d like to expand dramatically.





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Angela Missoni talks personal taste: Part One

Angela Missoni is creative director of her family’s knitwear brand, loved for its psychedelic zig-zags and vibrant colour

Angela Missoni is creative director of her family’s knitwear brand, loved for its psychedelic zig-zags and vibrant colour

My personal style signifiers are the long gold chains with pendants I collect and have worn every day for the past 15 years. I like to be inventive with my jewellery and often add charms or beads to necklaces and dangly earrings, and I always wear stacks of silver filigree and gold rings on at least six or seven of my fingers.

The last thing I bought and loved was a classic Persian carpet [pictured] with the words “Good ideas come through freedom” burned into the fibres, by Italian artist Loredana Longo. It is beautiful and inspirational. www.loredanalongo.com.

Wicked Game by Chris Isaak

Wicked Game by Chris Isaak


And the thing I’m eyeing next is a tree house for my home in Sumirago, outside Milan. I have always loved the idea of a secret escape and just this morning, walking in my garden, I found the perfect tree for it. My grandson, Otto, will love it too.

A recent “find” is La Baia di Moltrasio, a bar and restaurant at the top of a local rowing club on Lake Como. The terrace is very romantic in the summer months and long tables are set up inside during colder weather too. It is all about the food here and their fresh fish grilled with butter and herbs and the local speciality, riso in cagnone [rice fried with butter and sage], are the best I’ve ever tasted. Via Bellini 4, 22010 Moltrasio (+39031-376 093; www.labaiadimoltrasio.com).

The last items I added to my wardrobe were a pair of lime-green Nike Flyknit trainers [pictured]. I’d been eyeing them for a while and walking all over Milan in high heels during Fashion Week finally clinched the deal. I love the bright colour and knitted design. £130; www.nike.com.

An object I would never part with is a painting that once hung in my grandmother’s house and was given to me by a dear aunt. It is of a young girl from the 1950s and I like that it now hangs next to a colourful contemporary Tracey Emin piece in my house.


Missoni’s Persian carpet by Loredana Longo | Image: Gaia Cambiaggi

Missoni’s Persian carpet by Loredana Longo | Image: Gaia Cambiaggi


An indulgence I would never forgo is time spent at the Sofitel Quiberon Thalassa Sea & Spa [pictured] in Brittany. I have been going to this magnetic place for years; it is one of my favourite spots in the world because of the scenery – the rocks and beaches are spectacular – and the thalassotherapy massages, salt scrubs and seaweed wraps. It’s a very healthy, holistic place – not a beauty spa or a place of deprivation – and I always leave feeling refreshed, energised and a bit slimmer. It is one of the only spas I know that also appeals to men, which makes it a wonderful escape for my partner Bruno and I. Boulevard Louison Bobet, 56170 Quiberon (+332-9750 4888; www.thalassa.com).

The last music I downloaded was Wicked Game by Chris Isaak [pictured]. The song is old but I love the tune and the lyrics; it figured prominently in my last fashion show.


Missoni’s Nike Roshe Flyknit iD | Image: Gaia Cambiaggi

Missoni’s Nike Roshe Flyknit iD | Image: Gaia Cambiaggi


The beauty staples I’m never without are traditional hammam gloves and Tunisian black soap, which I use daily to exfoliate, and Louis Widmer’s Remederm Shower Oil, which is good for sensitive skin and leaves me feeling very moisturised. £8 for 150ml; www.louis‑widmer.nl.

If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose the 5Vie art and design district in Milan. I love Wait and See, an eclectic clothes shop in a former 18th-century convent that sells a mix of emerging designers and vintage finds from all over the world. And Rossana Orlandi – a magical design gallery set in a garden courtyard – is a treasure trove of new and classic pieces. Afterwards, a stop at La Latteria nearby is a must; it’s a tiny, authentic place with only about eight tables and they serve delicious traditionally Milanese riso al salto – risotto fritters. La Latteria San Marco, Via S Marco 24 (+3902-659 7653). Rossana Orlandi, Via Matteo Bandello 14/16 (+3902-467 4471; www.rossanaorlandi.com). Wait and See, Via Santa Marta 14 (+3902-7208 0195; www.waitandsee.it).


Sofitel Quiberon Thalassa Sea & Spa, Brittany | Image: Eric Culliver

Sofitel Quiberon Thalassa Sea & Spa, Brittany | Image: Eric Culliver


My favourite websites are the Business of Fashion for industry news; Corriere della Sera and The New York Times for current affairs; and Internazionale for the best articles from all over the world. I am also a huge fan of Instagram. www.businessoffashion.com. www.corriere.it. www.internazionale.it. www.instagram.com. www.nytimes.com.

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Angela Missoni talks personal taste: Part Two

The fashion designer sews up her list of likes with surrealist art, elaborate saris from Rajasthan and shopping in Saint Germain

The fashion designer sews up her list of likes with surrealist art, elaborate saris from Rajasthan and shopping in Saint Germain

My style icon is my mother Rosita, who at 84 years old is still the chicest person I know. She always looks great – even at the market or at home watching television – with her perfect hair, beautiful earrings and casual yet elegant wardrobe. I have always been a bit wilder in my look but wish I could be as naturally stylish as she is. I also admire Joyce Ma – the 1970s fashion icon who had a great eye for avant-garde design – and Carine Roitfeld who has a very distinctive aesthetic.

The best gift I’ve given recently was a series of three simple gold bangles from the 1950s, to my daughter Teresa for her birthday. I found them at a shop in Venice that was going out of business. They have large charms with the Pope’s face on them and are quite quirky and wonderful.

 
Practical Madness by Piero Fornasetti

Practical Madness by Piero Fornasetti

 

And the best ones I’ve received recently are, from my other daughter Margherita, a cheeky embroidered bra she transformed into a lampshade; a special glass box installation piece from Teresa; and my partner Bruno gave me a Brassaï photograph of a woman’s body in a frame engraved with a design by Picasso at the top. I cherish all three.

The last meal that truly impressed me was at Da Pasqualina, a small rustic restaurant in Murta Maria in Sardinia. The way they cook here is magical – everything is very simple yet delicious, with an emphasis on pasta and fresh fish. The best dish is spaghetti with local sea urchin. Via dello Zenzero, Murta Maria, Olbia, Sardinia (+390789-36808).

The sight that inspires me is the view of the mountains from my home in Sumirago, outside Milan. I always position myself in places with a view, and the Alps as seen from my bedroom are completely reinvigorating. Monte Rosa – or Pink Mountain – is especially beautiful at dawn when the reflection of the sun casts a dusky rose over the Lombard Alps.

In my fridge you’ll always find a selection of cheeses and salami, and a bottle of Vermentino, a white wine from Sardinia. Everything else I like to buy fresh on the day.

The artists whose work I would collect if I could are pioneers of surrealism Salvador Dalí and Joan Miró, whose work I find fascinating. They are far too expensive now, but I’d like the contrast these works would provide with the pieces by Jenny Holzer, Francesco Vezzoli and Tracey Emin that hang in my home.

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is India, and specifically Rajasthan. Everything about this country is magical: the ambience, the vivid colours, the geography, the deep traditions, the delicious food and the artisans and craftspeople who really know the true meaning of luxury. I was fascinated by the different textiles and embroideries, especially the beautiful white cotton dhotis and elaborate saris. The jewellery is magnificent too and at a behind-the-scenes peek at the Gem Palace in Jaipur – an Aladdin’s cave of beautiful things – I saw special marriage jewels and private collections of stunning emeralds and diamonds. Jaipur was a complete sensorial experience, and our stay at the Raj Palace – with its beautiful grounds and impeccable service – was a real highlight. Gem Palace, Shop 348, MI Road, Jaipur (+91141-237 4175; www.gempalacejaipur.com). Raj Palace, Near Jorawer Singh Gate, Amer Road, Jaipur (+91141-263 4077; www.rajpalace.com).

And the best souvenir I’ve brought home is a crystal-encrusted turtle shell from Jamaica. A local artisan transformed this beautiful shell into a charm and I wear it on my favourite summer necklace. It reminds me of a very special time on this island.

My favourite room in my house is my bedroom. I feel as though I’m outside because there’s so much glass and natural light. In the middle of the room there is a huge sliding door that separates my sleeping area from the sitting area and I use it as a kind of rotating photo gallery – it is covered with pictures of my children and grandchildren and gives me great joy.

The people I rely on for personal grooming are the therapists at Violette nail salon in Milan, which my daughters introduced me to. They do a great manicure. Via Panfilo Castaldi 14, 20124 Milan (+3902-2951 9283; www.violettemilano.com).

The books on my bedside table include my father Ottavio Missoni’s autobiography, Una vita sul filo di lana, which I have never read in its entirety and I’ve decided it’s time I did, and Piero Fornasetti’s Practical Madness – a book that was published to coincide with the last exhibition of this inventive designer’s work. I also have stacks of travel magazines – National Geographic, Condé Nast Traveller – because I love to see the world.  

If I didn’t live in Sumirago, the city I would live in is Paris, probably in or around Saint-Germain-des-Prés. I love the light and the wonderful food – L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon is a favourite for small plates of gyoza, grilled langoustines and crabe royal. I like exploring the streets along the Seine and ending up at the Gae Aulenti-designed Musée d’Orsay, and my favourite flea markets in the world are here, including the Marché aux Puces and Porte de Vanves; I could spend days there. But truthfully, I wouldn’t live anywhere but Sumirago because I love the country, and as it is I am 15 minutes from an international airport, 45 minutes from Milan, an hour by plane from Sardinia and a two-hour flight from London. L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, 5 Rue Montalembert (+331-4222 5656; www.atelier-robuchon-saint-germain.com). Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen, Avenue de la Porte de Clignancourt (www.marcheauxpuces-saintouen.com). Musée d’Orsay, 1 Rue de la Légion d’Honneur (+331-4049 4814; www.musee-orsay.fr). Porte de Vanves, Avenue Georges Lafenestre (+336-8689 9996; www.pucesdevanves.fr).

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be an interior designer because I like to create comfortable environments where things are in harmony. The details of this type of work appeal to me and I love to be surrounded by colour, texture and good design.

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L/Uniform's First Store Is a Sleek and Elegant Minimalist Space

The aesthetic of a popular online retailer’s first brick-and-mortar post takes cues from its fashionable totes.

The aesthetic of a popular online retailer’s first brick-and-mortar post takes cues from its fashionable totes.

“I wanted to build a store in a special, authentically Parisian place,” explains Jeanne Signoles, co-founder of the elegant, utilitarian handbag line L/Uniform. Her choice of the Quai Malaquai, a tree-lined street fronting the Seine in stylish Saint-Germain-des-Prés, was a natural one that mirrors her classic but contemporary collections. “There are no big brands here, and locals really do come to shop,” she says of the area that has long been home to artists, architects, and the fashion-forward.

Signoles, along with her husband, Alex, are not new to accessory design—his family owns Goyard—and they worked in the business before launching L/Uniform. Inspired by simple worker, messenger, and tool bags, their versions are handcrafted by artisans in the fortified French town Carcassonne using treated cotton or linen canvas, Spanish calfskin edging, and sculptural gold hardware. And while the business has been largely focused on the web, Signoles wanted this Paris retail environment to be a “cabinet of curiosities,” she says. “Not a museum or precious boutique, but a practical place with a great energy.”

Masamichi Katayama of Japan’s Wonderwall was enlisted to create a sleek, neutral white space that highlights the vibrant colors and forms of the bags to dazzling effect. The architect, whose harmonic and clean-lined style can be found in outlets such as Colette and Uniqlo, “brought a clear vision to the project,” says Signoles. “He looks at everything—space, light, layout—from the consumer’s point of view.”

The result is a 300-square foot jewel box-like setting full of natural finishes and brilliantly lit cubbies that line the walls from floor to ceiling. In keeping with the minimalist vibe, each bag is numbered, not named, and is showcased in backlit cubes that are further highlighted by the designer’s LED glass pendants. “Design is a form of communication. L/Uniform’s products should be the material of this place,” Katayama says. “The flooring is derived from their graphic pattern; the brand’s attention to detail is expressed in here.”

Large school bags—a take on the traditional messenger carryall—backpacks, petite pochettes, not to mention simple computer sleeves and phone charger cases, are all crafted from lightweight, stain-proof fabrics available in-store. They can be further customized by special order in any combination of canvas hues, leathers and cloth edgings. A parquet-lined workshop in the back of the space showcases color-blocked designs as well as silkscreened samples that further personalize the L/Uniform range, one that is already developing a cult-like following on both sides of the Atlantic. “I wanted this space to be full of inspirations, in order to create personalized bags,” Katyama says. “The bags have different stories, and I wish customers to enjoy the journey of the process. I wanted it to be a place where you can imagine your life with a new bag.”

Much like the bags, the shop “has the spirit of Saint Germain, but made modern,” says Signoles. “My favorite waiter at Le Voltaire down the street worries about what he calls the ‘massification’ of the area. He loves the store and when he gave us the nod of approval, I knew we had created something wonderful.”

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Tabitha Simmons talks personal taste: Part One

British stylist-turned-shoe designer Tabitha Simmons brings exquisite craftsmanship and a cool eccentricity to her eponymous label. This year she was voted CFDA Accessories Designer of the Year

British stylist-turned-shoe designer Tabitha Simmons brings exquisite craftsmanship and a cool eccentricity to her eponymous label. This year she was voted CFDA Accessories Designer of the Year

My personal style signifiers are a Chanel bouclé jacket, skinny Rag & Bone jeans, and either a white or stripy shirt by Equipment. I pair this go-everywhere outfit with my own pointy boots with a buckle. I also keep my hair very dark and, in true British style, wear it slightly unkempt. www.chanel.comwww.equipmentfr.comwww.rag-bone.com.

The last thing I bought and loved was a dragonfly table by Emile Gallé. I absolutely adore this art nouveau piece and it sits in my living room in my New York house. The mahogany legs are carved like dragonflies and I feel unbelievably lucky to have found it at auction.

Simmons’ Dolce & Gabbana basket-weave box bag | Image: Circe Hamilton

Simmons’ Dolce & Gabbana basket-weave box bag | Image: Circe Hamilton


And the thing I’m eyeing next is a pair of diamond bird earrings from SJ Phillips in London. I have been coveting these romantic pieces for some time, and I check on them periodically to make sure they are still there. www.sjphillips.com.

A recent “find” is the Big Sur Bakery in California, a special wood-fired bakery and restaurant set in an old ranch house just off scenic Highway 1. It serves the best open avocado sandwiches on sourdough bread I’ve ever tasted. 47540 CA-1, Big Sur, CA 93920 (+1831-667 0520; www.bigsurbakery.com).

The last music I downloaded was Stay Gold by the Swedish duo First Aid Kit. I love these girls’ folk-pop sound. They have great personal style, too.

The last items I added to my wardrobe were a basket-weave box bag with red leather trim  and a red and cream dress with pale-pink buttons, both by Dolce & Gabbana. The dress has long sleeves, is quite fitted and cut long, perfect for day or an evening out. www.dolcegabbana.com.


Estée Lauder Double Wear concealer, $24 for 25fl oz

Estée Lauder Double Wear concealer, $24 for 25fl oz


The place that inspires me is the rambling English countryside, particularly Dartmoor in Devon. The granite hilltops, rivers and bogs are beautiful, and the way that the mist rolls in is spooky but magical.

The best gift I’ve given recently was a zipped Chanel tweed and wool pouch, to my business partner’s mother as a thank you present. www.chanel.com.

Dustin Yellin glass-encased sculptures | Image: Circe Hamilton

Dustin Yellin glass-encased sculptures | Image: Circe Hamilton


And the best one I’ve received was a poem in a hand-painted, decorated wood frame given to me by my children at a Mother’s Day tea at their school. It has a very special place on my desk and I cherish it.

The beauty staples I’m never without are Terax Crema Ultra Moisturizing Daily Conditioner for my colour-treated hair – it leaves it softer and more manageable; Touche Eclat by YSL, superb for brightening around the eyes; and Estée Lauder’s Double Wear concealer [pictured], a new favourite that gives excellent coverage. Estée Lauder Double Wear concealer, $24 for 25fl oz; www.esteelauder.com. Terax Crema Ultra Moisturizing Daily Conditioner, from $22 for 200ml; www.beauty.com. YSL Touche Eclat, £25; www.yslbeauty.com.

Simmons’ Alexander McQueen hand-painted, pleated silk skirt | Image: Circe Hamilton

Simmons’ Alexander McQueen hand-painted, pleated silk skirt | Image: Circe Hamilton


The artists whose work I would collect if I could are Damien Hirst – I love his butterfly paintings; Francis Bacon, whose figurative painting I adore; and Brooklyn artist Dustin Yellin. I have a few of his glass-encased sculptures that resemble objects floating in air – his pieces have an eerie life to them.

Objects I would never part with include my collection of Alexander McQueen dresses and one of his hand-painted, pleated silk skirts that is very special to me; a Dolce & Gabbana gold embroidered jacket given to me by the designers many years ago; and the first shoe from my first collection. It is a black and cream wedge with a black bow and symbolises the realisation of my dreams.

My favourite websites are Moda Operandi for fashion; I love its immediacy – you can see the shows and order pieces right away. I also like Net-a-Porter for quick and easy shopping gratification, the BBC for news, Vogue.com for the latest style updates, and AbeBooks for rare or out-of- print titles. www.abebooks.co.ukwww.bbc.co.ukwww.modaoperandi.comwww.net-a-porter.comwww.vogue.com.

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Tabitha Simmons talks personal taste: Part Two

The British shoe designer concludes her list of likes with Game of Thrones, the Italian Riveria and roast beef

The British shoe designer concludes her list of likes with Game of Thrones, the Italian Riveria and roast beef

My style icons are many: Karen Elson, for whom I named my first shoe; and Sienna Miller, Poppy Delevingne and Alexa Chung, who all have innate, individual style. These women aren’t afraid to take risks and rely on their instincts to make interesting fashion choices.

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the last year is Portofino on the Italian Riviera, which is so beautiful in summer. I stayed at the Hotel Splendido, a spot with the most incredible views of the harbour and the kindest staff, and loved everything about the area – the colourful buildings that line the hillsides, the delicious food, and exploring the surrounding islands, dotted with caves and little coves, by sailboat. Salita Baratta 16, 16034 Portofino (+390185-267 801; www.belmond.com/hotel-splendido-portofino).

Karen Elson | Image: BFAnyc.com/REX Shutterstock

Karen Elson | Image: BFAnyc.com/REX Shutterstock

The books on my bedside table are the Game of Thrones series, including A Dance with Dragons, and a stack of National Geographic magazines, which I find quite inspirational; the photography is phenomenal and I love the varied locations and traditional costumes in these pages – I learn about the world here. I also have copies of Katie Grand’s biannual fashion magazine Love and whatever tapestry I am working on; it’s rather granny-like but it’s my new favourite thing.

The last meal that truly impressed me was an incredible English roast served in the oak panelled restaurant at The George hotel in Lincolnshire. It included all my favourite things: roast beef, Yorkshire pudding, potatoes, local vegetables and cauliflower cheese. I could eat this combination of things forever, but this particular meal and the country setting were sublime. 71 St Martins, Stamford, Lincolnshire PE9 2LB(01780-750 750; www.georgehotelofstamford.com).

My favourite room in my house is my kitchen, which is the centre of our Chelsea home. It’s a bright space with a midcentury-modern feel, dark walnut floors and a central island that is surrounded by Giò Ponti-designed dining chairs.

The people I rely on for personal grooming include Tracie Martyn for regular facials and André at the John Barrett salon for my hair colour; he has a secret formula and I have trusted him for many years. I also go to the Dashing Diva nail salon in Chelsea for regular manicures and pedicures. Dashing Diva, 177 Ninth Avenue, New York, NY 10011 (+1212-620 0200; www.dashingdiva.com). John Barrett Salon, 754 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10019 (+1212-872 2700; www.johnbarrett.com). Tracie Martyn, 101 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10003 (+1212-206 9333; www.traciemartyn.com).

Royal Suite, Four Seasons Hotel, Florence | Image: Barbara Kraft

Royal Suite, Four Seasons Hotel, Florence | Image: Barbara Kraft

If I didn’t live in New York, the city I would live in is Florence, ideally in a villa overlooking the Arno. I love the sense of history here, the incredible architecture and artistry. I adore the Uffizi Gallery and the Boboli Gardens and would like to explore both more frequently over time. My shoes are also made in this part of Italy and I would love to be closer to the manufacturing process. I might also stay at the Four Seasons, a meticulously restored former Renaissance palazzo and convent. I visited recently and was blown away by this place: its magnificent 16th-century frescoes, original chapel, and wide-open green spaces and swimming pool that are like oases in the middle of the city. Boboli Gardens, Piazza Pitti 1 (+39055-229 8732; www.polomuseale.firenze.it). Four Seasons Florence, Borgo Pinti 99 (+39055-262 61; www.fourseasons.com)Uffizi Gallery, Piazzale degli Uffizi 6 (+39055-238 8651; www.uffizi.org).

An indulgence I would never forgo is a good massage at The Spa at the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park. I don’t have much time for massages when I am at home, but this spa is so relaxing and the therapists so expert that I try to make time for its Oriental Essence massage whenever I’m in town. The facials are wonderful too. £155 for the Oriental Essence massage; Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightsbridge, London SW1 (020-7838 9888; www.mandarinoriental.com).

Hotel Splendido, Portofino | Image: Tommy Picone

Hotel Splendido, Portofino | Image: Tommy Picone

The best souvenir I’ve brought home is exquisite white table linens from Taormina in Sicily. I buy textiles wherever I go, and love these simple, handmade tablecloths and napkins with delicate lacework that isn’t too frilly. I like souvenirs that stand the test of time and can be used on a regular basis.

In my fridge you’ll always find almond milk, oranges for making freshly squeezed juice, rocket for salads and ham and cheese for my children’s favourite sandwiches.

If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose London’s Chelsea. I love the original Joseph store for its unique fashion mix, as well as the Chanel boutique on Brompton Road. Then there’s the Rag & Bone and Chloé shops near Sloane Square and Harvey Nichols just up the road in Knightsbridge. If I can include a fraction of Mayfair, SJ Phillips remains my absolute favourite source of antique jewellery. Chanel, 278-280 Brompton Road, SW3 (020-7581 8620; www.chanel.com). Chloé, 152-153 Sloane Street, SW1 (020-7823 5348; www.chloe.com). Harvey Nichols, 109-125 Knightsbridge, SW1 (020-7235 5000; www.harveynichols.com). Joseph, 77 Fulham Road, SW3 (020-823 9500; www.joseph-fashion.com). Rag & Bone, 13-14 Sloane Square, SW1 (020-7730 6881; www.rag-bone.com). SJ Phillips, 139 New Bond Street, W1 (020-7629 6261; www.sjphillips.com).

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be a film and television set designer. I studied this at university and was offered a job at Pinewood upon graduation, which has always left me wondering what if…  I love the creative energy found on set.



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