Cult Shop: consciously sourced cool in California wine country

A self-styled antidote to throwaway culture, Carter and Co showcases artisanal homeware, sustainable fashion and local produce

I’m not into throwaway culture,” says artist, potter and sculptor Richard Carter. “People increasingly want things that are handmade, environmentally sensitive and can’t be found elsewhere. They also want to meet the makers and hear their stories.” After seeing empty storefronts in the Napa Valley town of St Helena, he put his beliefs into practice and in May 2019 opened Carter and Co, a lifestyle store selling artisanal homeware, sustainable fashion and locally sourced produce. Carter set about a meticulous restoration of a 19th-century store – which had been first a butcher’s, then a tailor’s and later an antiques shop. “I felt its soul and history immediately,” says Carter of the now soaring, light-filled space with its white plastered walls, waxed fir floors and wooden dressmaker’s shelves.

From left, owner Richard Carter, Michelle Neal, Erin Radcliffe, Chelsea Radcliffe with dog Oliver, and Toby Hanson © Emma K Morris A set of six French walnut steak knives, $450 © Emma K Morris

A set of six French walnut steak knives, $450 © Emma K Morris

Vintage corkscrews, from $35 © Emma K Morris

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Many of the original store features are used to display items. The wide-ranging book selection is showcased in a restored meat locker; magnificent sculptural bowls ($2,000) and crystalline cloches ($2,600) by architect and glassblower Joshua Parke sit atop a zinc-topped wooden worktable; and rare copper pots and handcrafted knives are on an original butcher’s block. The store is particularly celebrated for its varied selection of dishware, which is inspired by designs created by Carter and artists-in-residence at his studio on his 85-acre ranch in nearby Pope Valley, and fired in the estate’s Japanese wood-burning kilns. Much sought after is the “dirty” porcelain that “contains iron and is more textural”, made in collaboration with the nearby three-Michelin-starred Meadowood restaurant; especially beautiful is the Shed line of ceramics ($38-$195) fired in a salt kiln to give them an ethereal, mottled green veneer.

The wide-ranging book selection is showcased in a restored meat locker © Emma K Morris

Millon and Clark walnut board, $184 © Emma K Morris

Carter’s time spent as a chef at Thomas Keller’s The French Laundry, three-Michelin-starred as well, has also nurtured a special interest in top-quality culinary implements (“I love caring for good tools – especially if there’s a backstory involved”), and the array here includes hand-forged Swedish axes by Gransfors Bruk ($153), Tetu cast iron kettles ($615) and chopsticks ($10). The most striking piece is a spectacular carbon steel fire pit ($9,000) that Carter designed at the ranch during lockdown. Foodie highlights, meanwhile, include locally produced honey and olive oil. But it’s not all practical housewares. Clothing includes hand-sewn deerskin jackets in tan, gold and chocolate by nearby Marin-based Susan Kim ($1,500-$1,700), while decorative objects include Japanese hollow taper candles ($28) and Breu resin incense ($18). To keep things feeling fresh, Carter also hosts regular pop-ups (most recently with ethical-clothing brand Dosa). “We felt like we could do retail better,” he concludes. “I keep the place spare and change it often. People come to discover niche things that are sustainable and made with love.”

The 50 greatest food stores in the world

Where to find the best produce on the planet, from classic New York delis and Indian spice emporiums to German sausage shops

Tim Auld, Leah Bhabha, Emiko Davies, Christina Ohly Evans, Fiona Golfar, Ajesh Patalay, Charlene Prempeh, Maria Shollenbarger, Rima Suqi

Chicken pot pie at Butterfield Market

Butterfield Market, New York

In business on the Upper East Side for over a century, this market and deli has expanded during Covid-19 to an airy new spot on Madison Avenue with even more room for cases full of delicious prepared foods: jumbo lump-crab cakes, hearty chicken pot pie, traditional Jewish “appetising” and sides galore. Loyal customers head here for the iced French cruller doughnuts (they sell out by noon), fruit tarts and soufflés, as well as freshly baked pizzas. Organic pressed juices, a frozen-yoghurt station and a coffee bar worthy of Italy round this out. Christina Ohly Evans butterfieldnyc.com

Call Your Mother, Washington

“All about the bagel sandwich…”: Call Your Mother © Tim Casey

Set in a hot-pink former flower shop in Washington’s Georgetown neighbourhood, Call Your Mother is all about the bagel sandwich. Bestsellers include The Gleneagle – a za’atar-dusted bagel with lashings of candied salmon cream cheese and shallots – and The Sun City: a pastrami, egg, cheese and spicy-honey breakfast sandwich that can command an hour-long wait. Sandwiches on rye and challah, traditional black-and-white cookies and babka muffins round out this carb-lovers’ dream. COE callyourmotherdeli.com

Farmshop, Santa Monica

The historic Brentwood Country Mart is home to Farmshop, a California-inspired market, bakery and restaurant that highlights the best of artisanal, edible everything. Cheese lovers will delight in Central Coast Creamery’s Goat Gouda, as well as cheddar-style Barely Buzzed rubbed with lavender and espresso beans, while prepared foods including vegetable quiches, hearty soups and gluten-free financiers have earned Farmshop a dedicated fan base. This being LA, shelves are lined with organic oat milk, Saffron Latte Wellness Powder and Turmeric Spice Blend Mylk by Goldyn Glow – and you’ll feel better by just visiting. COE farmshopca.com/santa-monica

Loaves & Fishes, Sagaponack, the Hamptons

Freshly baked bread on the shelves of Loaves & Fishes

Considered the best place in the Hamptons for fine foods to take away, Loaves & Fishes is famed for its grilled citrus salmon, chicken schnitzel and chunky fresh lobster salad. Savour house-made Sicilian pistachio ice cream, salted-caramel spice cake and apricot galettes by beloved proprietress Sybille van Kempen’s pastry team, and stock up on local jams and freshly baked baguettes. COE loavesandfishes.us

Manteigaria Silva, Lisbon

Manteigaria Silva, Lisbon Lisbon’s oldest grocery store is a feast for the senses with its wide array of Serra da Estrela cheeses and dry-cured hams dangling from the rafters, as well as its signature bacalhau (sea salt-cured cod). COE manteigariasilva.pt

Oyster time is nigh…

An American seafood bar’s unforgettable classics with a sophisticated twist

Image: Doug Merriam

Eventide – the transition between day and night – is an apt name for the bustling oyster bar in the Old Port of Portland, Maine, where I happily whiled away an evening sampling some of America’s finest oysters. At its central granite bar, shuckers’ labours make for great theatre and briny Winterpoint Selects are the house speciality. As oyster season is nigh, I can’t recommend it highly enough.

Chefs Andrew Taylor and Mike Wiley have won many awards in the year since the restaurant opened – just one taste of their house-made pickles and sophisticated clam chowder with salt pork, and it’s easy to see why. Unsurprisingly, oysters on the half shell figure prominently – with nine varieties from Maine and another nine “from away” ($28 for a full dozen). A summer menu of cold items, including a refreshing Peekytoe-crab salad ($12), local halibut crudo ($11) and greens with nori vinaigrette ($7), were gleefully shared among our group.

Lovers of the classics – lobster roll ($12), fried chicken ($7) and thick sea-bass steaks – will not be disappointed by Eventide’s take on these perennial favourites. I like to think of myself as something of a connoisseur of the lobster roll – the proper ratio of meat to soft bun is key – and Eventide’s is, without exception, the best I’ve ever tasted. The restaurant’s upscale creations come with a choice of condiments – house mayo, a light hollandaise, or the brown-butter vinaigrette that I opted for, which lent a tangy, deliciously salty twist.

Savoury cocktails (from $9) washed down the food with aplomb: tequila-infused Bloody Marias, Celery Gimlets and Dirty Dirty Martinis made with oyster brine were some of the highlights sampled by our thirsty crew.

After an enormous supper in this bright, convivial setting, I was nervous of even broaching the topic of dessert. I manned up, however, and a slice of strawberry and rhubarb pie ($7) was sweetly sumptuous enough to be unforgettable.

All in all, this was a meal that is now etched on my sensory memory.

Bee inspired

Exotic honeys from across the US are gathered in one inviting e-store

A growing appreciation of the importance of honeybees and the role they play in the health of our agricultural systems finds a sweet spot at Bee Raw Honey, an e-shop devoted to the mellifluous nectar (and the artisanal beekeepers who promote it). The unprocessed, unblended honeys on its site are sourced from all over the US, the product of family-owned apiaries from Connecticut to California. Each honey is made from a single organic or wild flower type that yields a distinct flavour and hue. All are extraordinarily tasty and beautifully packaged.

The e-store’s Raw Honey section contains a robust and rare selection of single varietals – from a light amber Aster Honey ($15), with hints of thyme and eucalyptus, to Blueberry Honey ($12) from Maine and a dark, complex Buckwheat variety ($12) from Washington State, which is perfect drizzled over plain Greek yogurt. The site also provides information about each grower and the honey’s floral source, as well as offering inventive ideas for cheese, fruit and tea pairings.

In addition to unique honeys, such as Sourwood ($14), Star Thistle ($14) and Meadowfoam ($15), there is also a large selection of assorted packages that allow for experimentation. The 4 Cheese Complementing Varietal Honey Flight ($45) includes four hand-corked vials presented in a sleek oak block, while the Six Times as Fun gift set ($79) offers such honey highlights as Florida Orange Blossom and New York Basswood – all presented in an understated, elegant box complete with Bee Raw’s signature cherrywood dipper ($12). The pièce de résistance, however, is the 9 Varietal Honey Flight ($78, second picture), a cross-country sampler of 1oz honey-filled tubes that are sealed with beeswax.

Tea lovers will delight in unusual pairings such as Karigane Kukicha Green Tea with Colorado Yellow Clover Honey ($30) – plus lessons on how to steep the perfect cup – as well as a Mount Olympus herbal variety with Wild Black Sage Honey ($28) that perfectly melds mild, smooth sweetness and a slight pepperiness.

With recipes for everything from cocktails to honey-peppercorn duck, not to mention ideas for easy entertaining and a subtle education on helping the environment, its hard not to take up this inspiring site’s motto: “Bee inspired”.

www.beeraw.com

Mr Chow talks personal taste: Part One

Founder of his eponymous London restaurant, Mr Chow has overseen a global expansion that includes outposts in New York, Miami and LA

My personal style signifier is my pair of Mr Chow Spectacles by Cutler and Gross. They are based on the style worn by architects such as IM Pei, and I have worn them for more than 15 years now. From £299; www.cutlerandgross.com.

Hermès tape measure, £285

The last thing I bought and loved was a miniature oil portrait by Peter Blake, a canvas depicting a young girl, which I bought at Christie’s. It has a very special place in my collection. www.christies.com.

And the thing I’m eyeing next is a new tape measure by Hermès, to replace my old one. I carry this small, beautifully made leather measure with me wherever I go. £285; www.hermes.com.

The National Assembly Building in Dhaka, Bangladesh | Image: Getty Images/Science Faction

A recent “find” is the tiny Japanese restaurant Nishimura in Los Angeles. It is located in a serene little garden near the Pacific Design Center and was a completely unexpected surprise. They only serve sushi there, and it is delicious. 8684 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90069 (+1310-659 4770).

1920s Cla-Cla reading table by Emile-Jacques Ruhlmann

The site that inspires me is Louis Kahn’s National Assembly Building in Dhaka, Bangladesh. This majestic parliamentary building is set on the water, and the scale is breathtaking. Also inspirational to me are the chapel of Notre Dame du Haut – or “Ronchamp” – by Le Corbusier, and Gaudi’s Casa Milà in Barcelona.

Yo-Yo Ma Plays Ennio Morricone | Image: Simon Watson

The best gift I’ve given recently is a 1920s Cla-Cla reading table by Emile-Jacques Ruhlmann, which I bought at DeLorenzo Gallery for my wife, Eva. I consider Ruhlmann to be the greatest furniture designer of all time and I used to collect his work extensively. 956 Madison Avenue, New York, NY 10021 (+1212-249 7575; www.delorenzogallery.com).

Mr Chow’s ink painting by Qi Baishi | Image: David Ash

And the best one I’ve received is a felt and leather Hermès throw that was given to me by my daughter, China, as a birthday gift. It fits beautifully over the top of a Jean Dunand lacquered table in my sitting room. www.hermes.com.

In my fridge you’ll always find assorted crudités, as well as a bottle of Krug champagne, which I regard as a great luxury. There is also a selection of ingredients for making breakfast, including eggs and Cheddar cheese for the egg-white omelettes I eat every day. www.krug.com.

The books on my bedside table are primarily about art. I am currently reading Lucio Fontana: The Artist’s Materials, about the work of this Argentine artist, and several books about Yves Klein, including Yves Klein: With the Void, Full Powers.

The last music I bought was the CD Yo-Yo Ma Plays Ennio Morricone. Morricone wrote the scores for nearly all of Sergio Leone’s movies, and I’m a big fan of his work. www.enniomorricone.it. www.yo-yoma.com.

An object I would never part with is an ink painting by the man I consider to be the greatest artist of the 20th century, Qi Baishi. My father was a Beijing opera actor and Qi Baishi created this “six fishes” work as a celebration of his 50 years on stage. This artwork and its inscription are incredibly special to me.

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Basel, a wonderful city that mixes historical architecture with contemporary culture. I loved everything from its grand hotels to the efficient tram system, which reminds me of Shanghai. Among my highlights was the Renzo Piano-designed Beyeler Foundation that’s just outside the city, looking out over rolling hills. It features an incredible collection of works by Calder, Klee and Monet. Most of all, though, I like that this is a city best explored on foot, which makes for a nice change from life in Los Angeles. Baselstrasse 101, CH-4125 Riehen, Basel (+4161-645 9700; www.fondationbeyeler.ch).

The grooming staples I’m never without are Sulwhasoo’s Essential Skin Refiner and Moisturizing Fluid. I am not particular about shampoos or soaps, although I do think that the shape and size of a bar of soap matters. Aesthetics are very important to me. Essential Skin Refiner, $60, and Moisturizing Fluid, $50; us.sulwhasoo.com.

Mr Chow talks personal taste: Part Two

Poker, da Vinci and Hong Kong conclude the restaurateur’s personal style file

My style icon is the late actor Gary Cooper. He was beyond elegant, women loved him and his style was eternal. His sensibility, his walk and the way he carried himself are unmatched to this day.

My favourite room in my house is the “gold room”. Gold is typically vulgar, but it isn’t in this sitting room, which contains paintings by Peter Blake, sculptures and an original Murano chandelier that is quite spectacular. This space is a jewel within my house, and it is big, functional, and very well used.

Gary Cooper | Image: Everett Collection/Rex Features

The last meal that truly impressed me was at Balthazar in New York. I went for dinner recently and the restaurant was incredibly lively, and the mix of people was just right. The menu isn’t huge but they do everything so well. We had fruits de mer and steak frites – simple food, but very nostalgic and delicious. 80 Spring Street, New York, NY 10012 (+1212-965 1414; www.balthazarny.com).

An indulgence I would never forego is the game of poker. I think art and poker have a lot in common: you get certain highs and lows from both, and they each force you to exercise your mind. Poker requires split-second decision-making, and I like that you play against yourself.

The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Leonardo da Vinci. The depth and beauty of his creations is simply apart from everyone else.  

The last items of clothing I added to my wardrobe were six pairs of corduroy trousers in various colours that were custom-made for me by Hermès in Paris. All of those colours might have been a mistake... 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris (+331-4017 4600;www.hermes.com).

The 18th-century Murano chandelier in Mr Chow’s “gold room” | Image: David Ash

The people I rely on for personal grooming and style are Little Joe’s in Beverly Hills for my haircuts – his modest barbershop has a lot of history to it and all of Hollywood goes to him – and George Cleverley for my bespoke shoes. George Cleverley, 13 The Royal Arcade, 28 Old Bond Street, London W1 (020-7493 0443; www.gjcleverley.co.uk). Little Joe’s, 9602 Wilshire Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90210 (+1310-271 5363).

My favourite website is YouTube, which I like to look at because I am a very visual person. I prefer to read things in print, as I’m ancient and not well versed in computers. I am, however, young in spirit. www.youtube.com.

George Cleverley Finchley shoes, £2,650

If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose the area surrounding the Spanish Steps in Rome. After setting off from the Hassler Hotel, I like to shop on the Via Condotti at boutiques such as Gucci. The Gagosian Gallery there is also wonderful, as is the Via Veneto nearby. This area is the heart of Rome and it makes me happy just thinking about it. Gagosian Gallery, Via Francesco Crispi 16, 00187 Rome (+3906-4208 6498; www.gagosian.com). Gucci, Via Condotti 8, 00187 Rome (+3906-6790 405; www.gucci.com). Hotel Hassler Roma, Piazza della Trinità dei Monti, 00187 Rome (+3906-699 340; www.hotelhasslerroma.com).

The best souvenir I’ve brought home is a roof tile that I found in Shanghai. I left China as a young teen so, for me, this historical tile is very personal. I consider it a powerful piece of sculpture, as it has a beautiful shape and colour.

The Gagosian Gallery in Rome | Image: Luigi Filetici

If I didn’t live in Los Angeles, the city I would live in is Hong Kong. I just love the idea of it: the weather is great, you can eat the best food on earth and it has literally everything to offer. I like the Peninsula Hotel because it feels nostalgic, with its afternoon tea. I would love to live in The Peak area for the incredible views. Peninsula Hotel, Salisbury Road, Kowloon, Hong Kong (+852-2920 2888; www.peninsula.com).

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be a conductor, as I like both the precision of creating music of pure, perfect moments and the idea of rehearsals and collaboration. I would like to be Toscanini, but in a new way.

Seafood and sundowners at a beachside bolthole

On the outskirts of Cape Town, this buzzy restaurant is one to bookmark

Just a few minutes outside Cape Town, in the beachside area of Clifton, sits The Bungalow, a buzzy, chic Ibiza-meets-Beverly Hills restaurant accessed via a long drive with spectacular views of the vast expanse of blue sea. It comprises a casual outdoor patio that is all canvas, comfy pillows and reclaimed wood, and a more “formal” indoor room that glimmers with gilt, chandeliers and polished beige marble.

Our group opted for the breezy deck area. Restaurateur and hotelier Paul Kovensky (of Paranga and Zenzero fame) has thought of everything – from menus full of fresh, seasonal fare ideal for sharing, to cozy blankets for chilly evenings and a tiny plunge pool for decoration and late-night fun – and the overall ambience is relaxed and elegant.

No matter how lovely the view, however, in the end it’s all about the food – but how could it possibly match the magical setting? I was nervous, but unnecessarily so. Seafood takes centre stage – for starters there is tuna sushi and saba sashimi, colourful prawn fashion rolls (about £3.50-£5) and Namibian crab claw tempura with a sweet chilli sauce (about £7), or, as a main, native kingklip (about £9) and enormous langoustines. Towering platters of shellfish are perfect to kick off the meal in sculptural, scene-stealing style. Elsewhere on the menu, Bungalow signature salads of farm-fresh lettuces and house-made croutons (about £5.60) followed by simple yet satisfying burgers and steak sandwiches (from about £5.60) make for great midday meals, while grilled lamb cutlets with thyme and rosemary lemon salt (about £10.60) and the venison of the day (about £11) are more substantial.

I was enchanted by the kind (if slightly bumbling) service staff, all of whom answered all our questions – about everything from the crazy cocktails and endless list of South African wines, to the day’s line-fish carpaccio – with smiling warmth.

On to dessert and the restaurant’s devilishly delicious sundae (about £5) had me at “hello”. This profusion of luscious ice cream, caramelised almond brittle and homemade chocolate sauce was a crowd pleaser, plain and simple. Other classics we tried – Eton Mess (about £4), crème brûlée (about £3.50), and a seasonal fruit platter (about £6.50) – paled in comparison. But that was no surprise. What a finale...

The Bungalow, 3 Victoria Road, Clifton, Cape Town +2721-438 5600 ; www.thebungalow.co.za.