A La Turca
A treasure hunt through this Istanbul antiques haven turns up lessons in Ottoman history – along with a glass of cherry wine
Tucked down a side street in Istanbul’s artistic and eclectic Çukurcuma district, in a spectacular 19th-century, four-storey townhouse, is a true treasure trove of Turkish antiques. Brimming with pieces you’re unlikely to find assembled anywhere else, this fascinating emporium feels like the private home of a tasteful collector. Indeed, a visit to A La Turca is an education in Ottoman art history and local lore, not to mention a visual feast, full of exquisite objects that cover every available surface – all lovingly amassed by owner Erkal Aksoy.
Classic Ottoman vintage rose water glasses (€250-€550, top shelf) and Anatolian vintage jars (€350-€750, bottom shelf). | Image: Emre Uzer
Visitors to his store-cum-museum are in for a treat; one that begins with a glass of cherry wine and sweets – perfect sustenance for the hours one can spend exploring the jam-packed floors. “I love sharing my culture and history with my clients, many of whom simply come to browse,” explains Aksoy – and one doesn’t feel any pressure to buy.
Starting in the rug and kilim department that A La Turca is so justly known for, one finds impressive floor-to-ceiling shelves that display a colourful array of some 4,000 carpets (from €800-€18,000), made from either wool or cotton in Turkey’s Konya and Sivas regions. The latter’s kilims are noted for their deep red hues, while simple floral and geometric motifs dominate the entire collection. Aksoy and his assistants are happy to unfurl rug after rug, sharing their knowledge of traditional weaving techniques and ancient textiles.
Ottoman sultan portraits, oil on canvas, from €1,500 | Image: Emre Uzer
In the basement there is a profusion of Turkish pottery – Aksoy’s “true passion” – including green-glazed urns (€350-€4,000), vases (from €450) and assorted Aegean water jugs (€450-€4,000). The upper floors feature beautiful hand-blown glassware in translucent shades of blue (€550-€1,500) – “traditional cheese containers that are buried below ground to age”, explains Aksoy. There are also classic Ottoman vintage rose water glasses (€250-€550, pictured left, top shelf) and Anatolian vintage jars (€350-€750).
Vintage globes, from €1,600 | Image: Emre Uzer
One of A La Turca’s most spectacular spaces houses a collection of antique globes (€1,600-€8,500) that have been gathered from all over the world, and the Ottoman portraits of sultans painted in oils (€1,500-€15,000) that adorn the walls are particularly intriguing. Dotted around are more modern paintings (€350-€3,000), about 50-60 years old and simply framed in gilded wood, while marble vases once used for traditional boza drinks (€500-€5,000), copper statuary (from €350), embroideries (from €1,650), Arabic scrolls (from €750) and enormous custom-made “great tables” (€2,500), which Aksoy commissions from the neighbouring Princes’ Islands, round out the shop’s unique offerings.
However, it is Aksoy himself – with his exacting eye and knowledge – that makes A La Turca a must. As he explains: “I am influenced by the architecture, history and chaotic energy of Istanbul, where the east meets the west.” Prepare to discover a condensed cultural history in objects, cherry-picked by a discerning curator.