Gothic wonderland
Fantastical creations by a Florentine jeweller in a magical setting
Any visitor to Florence is likely to make a beeline for the Uffizi, the Duomo or the Boboli Gardens for a hit of Renaissance beauty. But add to this list of cultural highlights the 15th-century atelier of jeweller Alessandro Dari, a self-taught goldsmith-cum-classical guitarist who creates fantastical “wearable sculpture” from precious metals and unusual gemstones.
Image: Tommaso Fontanella
All of Dari’s thematic collections – Venezia, Music, Space & Time, Alchemy & Magic, Sin, Metamorphoses, Angels and Moon Time, to name a few – are presented in his magical San Niccolò shop in ethereal glass boxes that draw out the architectural and spiritual nature of his work.
I happened upon the space – part showroom, part workshop – while walking down a quiet back street and instantly felt as though I’d taken a step back in time. Dari’s guitar music was wafting from the high-ceilinged room into the street, as was the tinkling chatter of his apprentices – busily crafting pieces using traditional techniques and materials. With selections from 15 collections on display (prices from €3,000 to €12,000), including those from his latest Garden of Life series, the hundreds of pieces of jewellery, artefacts and pedestals spread throughout the gallery were a feast for the senses.
Image: Tommaso Fontanella
This ended up as a museum visit for me rather than a buying trip, but I highly recommend seeing the intricacies – and eccentricities – of Maestro Dari’s work. All his pieces are one of a kind and are crafted using combinations of 18ct gold and sterling silver, with diamonds, rubies, sapphires, pearls and tourmalines creating figures, cupolas and entire cities in miniature.
Rings are a particular Dari strength and many appear fit for a medieval king or sorcerer. A chunky Pia Tolomei design (first picture, price on request) includes citrines and diamonds in an architectural setting, while the Istanbul ring (third picture, price on request) features an impossibly small, detailed mosque and minarets. Rings from The Garden of Life series (example in second picture, price on request) are perhaps the most dramatic as they incorporate big stones with themes of childhood, purity and rebirth that pay homage to Florence’s Foundling Hospital (Ospedale degli Innocenti).
Gothic pendants, chunky bracelets, such as the magnificent Moon Compass, as well as stand-alone objets d’art are showcased throughout the space and visitors – many of whom come simply to admire Dari’s skill and imagination – are encouraged to explore and learn about the work that goes into each piece. Located just over the Ponte Vecchio, Alessandro Dari’s Oltrarno atelier offers a fairytale profusion of gemstones and stories – and it is a wonderland that I will not soon forget.