Simone Rocha’s perfect weekend in Dublin
The fashion designer celebrates her homecoming with rare books and vintage clothes, oysters and chips – and a reviving sea-swim
The fashion designer celebrates her homecoming with rare books and vintage clothes, oysters and chips – and a reviving sea-swim
“Although I live in London now, Dublin still feels like my hometown. I loved growing up here, just a short walk from the centre, and I went to college in The Liberties, the historic part of the city close to the Liffey. When I’m back for weekends, it’s usually all about family and friends, pubs and long walks.
At Christmas, the city is at its very best – well, its most merry anyway. Christmas Eve is wonderful, with women selling flowers in the streets and everyone last-minute panicking. My boyfriend, Eoin, might be delivering turkeys around town – his father is a butcher – so he brings the birds to the nuns or to friends in the pubs, in which case, it’s more family time for me. Regardless of the season, I always find the city to be authentic and somehow poetic, and being here sets me at ease.
Saturday mornings begin with my dad [John Rocha] going out to get the papers and some sausage rolls from the local petrol station. Once fortified, I’ll walk into town. I love the pace and the way you can float around and bump into old friends – it feels like nothing has changed.
First, I’ll stop at our coffee place, 3fe, then have a wander in my favourite shops. I go to Sheridans, the excellent cheesemonger on Anne Street, for Comté and maybe a nice goat’s cheese and their Irish brown-bread crackers. There are wonderful bookstores – particularly Ulysses Rare Bookshop on Duke Street, which has amazing finds such as a first edition of The Train by Thomas Kinsella, or old classics like Black Beauty with illustrations by Cecil Aldin, from around 1930. I also love the bookshop in the Gallery of Photography, in the heart of Temple Bar, overlooking Meeting House Square, where I always find a big mix of old and new photo books.
For clothes, I’ve always liked the vintage stores: Jenny Vander has rails and rails of pieces with a slightly 1920s feel, while A Store is Born sells clothes from across the decades. The best fashion store is Havana, in Donnybrook, owned by the incredible Nikki Creedon, who I’ve been working with exclusively for years. She sells brands from Junya Watanabe and Comme des Garçons to Rick Owens.
After shopping, I like a simple lunch – maybe a cheese toastie with mustard at Grogans, a pub in the middle of town that is traditional and down-to-earth. I always love the fresh fish at Cavistons in Glathule too – ideally, baked Kilmore hake or seared king scallops with ginger and lemon. If I’m feeling more adventurous, it might be the Roundwood Inn in County Wicklow for lunch after a drive through the Sally Gap, or a walk in scenic Glendalough. The crab claws, oysters and chips at this former hunting lodge are always excellent.
The Francis Bacon Studio in Hugh Lane Gallery, which was moved, piece by piece, from 7 Reece Mews in London, is amazing, and my favourite spot for a bit of afternoon culture. The Irish Museum of Modern Art is incredible as well for its collection of modern and contemporary work. I’ve had so many wonderful visits there, from the first time I saw the work of Louise Bourgeois – my early exposures to her art continue to inspire me and my own design – to a Nick Cave gig last summer. It’s set in the beautiful grounds of the 17th-century Royal Hospital Kilmainham, a short walk from where I studied at the National College of Art and Design.
On Saturday night, I’ll either have people around for supper or I’ll go out with friends to Etto, a restaurant opened a few years ago by friends of mine. Their menus are seasonal, but I always love the côte de boeuf and red-wine prunes with mascarpone – heavenly. They’ve just opened a second restaurant called Uno Mas, but I haven’t made it there yet. After dinner, I love the Irish Film Institute, which shows a mix of independent and classic films. The perfect ending to the night is a bag of crispy chips from Leo Burdock for the walk home.
Sunday morning starts with brown bread or classic Irish soda bread from McCambridge, served with local smoked salmon. If the weather is nice, you’ll find me at Forty Foot [a promontory of Dublin Bay at Sandycove], where I’ll go for a swim in the sea, maybe followed by a visit to one of the city’s wonderful museums. The old Collins Barracks now houses the National Museum of Ireland, which has amazing pieces by Eileen Gray. And the Natural History Museum, with its creaky floorboards and taxidermy animals that look like they have been there forever, is another of my regular stops.
Sunday lunch is always in our family home, cooked by my mother: roast chicken – with my granny’s stuffing – and potatoes. After a leisurely meal, we spend time around the fire reading or watching sport, and it’s peaceful. I always love being in Dublin, but I never manage to see everyone I want to see or do everything I want to do before it’s time to leave for London again.”
Duro Olowu’s perfect weekend in London
The Lagos-born womenswear designer, known for his head-turning, print‑led pieces, spends his weekend exploring vintage vinyl and rare textiles and ends it with the perfect martini
The Lagos-born womenswear designer, known for his head-turning, print‑led pieces, spends his weekend exploring vintage vinyl and rare textiles and ends it with the perfect martini
“I travel so much – to see my wife Thelma [Golden, The Studio Museum curator], who is based in New York, to Lagos to visit my father and to fabric factories in Italy – that when I’m home at the weekend I treasure just sleeping in my own bed and doing mundane things like laundry.
Even so, I head out early on Saturdays. I live in Ladbroke Grove, and while the area has gentrified since I moved here 17 years ago, it is still full of vendors I’ve known for years. I find it wonderfully reassuring that they are still here, selling high-quality things that never disappoint.
My first stop is either the Golborne Deli or Café O’Porto, for a galão – a milky style of coffee that doesn’t make me too hyper – and a toasted sandwich. Then I’ll wander through Golborne Road market, where I might find beautiful silver cutlery and pieces of mismatched Meissen porcelain. I always stop at Les Couilles du Chien – “The Dog’s Bollocks” – which has a fantastic array of midcentury items by designers such as Giò Ponti; and at Rellik, where I’ve found rare vintage Hermès pieces for Thelma. I’ll also visit Portobello Road’s Rainbow News, an old-school newsagent with all the best fashion and design magazines, before ending up at Charles Vernon-Hunt, which has exquisite books about African art and textiles, and rare and vintage catalogues – all beautifully curated. I have a serious book addiction.
By now I’m laden down, but I’ll make my way to Notting Hill Gate, to the farmers’ market. On the rare occasions that I’m home, I like to cook with good ingredients. My next stop is always Honest Jon’s Records, which sells a mix of funk, dub, jazz and reggae. The clientele is as eclectic as the music, and DJs come from all over the world to listen and learn.
After a lunch at home, I might take the bus to Mayfair for an afternoon at its galleries. David Zwirner and Hauser & Wirth are favourites, but I also love the David Hill space near my home, which puts on interesting exhibitions of under-the-radar contemporary photographers. I collect rare African textiles, so another stop is a tiny shop called Adire Textiles in Alfies Antique Market, which has an incredible collection of late-19th-century to late-20th-century west African pieces.
If Thelma is in town, we have an early supper with friends, either at The Wolseley – where I order the chopped chicken salad – or Ikoyi, a west African fusion restaurant in St James’s. It’s so nice to see this cuisine being done to such a high level.
My doctor once advised me to wake up, take note of where I am and relax – and on Sundays, I take this to extremes. I wake early, but lie in and watch a film – a Billy Wilder or a Visconti. I also call my dad: he’s 89 and it’s nice to start the day with his voice. Then I might visit Holland Park’s Kyoto Garden – a beautiful, zen place – before going for dim sum at Royal China on Queensway, a Sunday tradition. It’s also my museum day so, fully fed, I’ll go to the V&A – the jewellery collections and the Middle Eastern decorative arts rooms are highlights. By 5pm, I need a drink. Dukes Bar is my favourite for one of bar manager Alessandro Palazzi’s legendary martinis. If Thelma is in New York, I’ll call her while I’m making supper – a healthy take on a Nigerian dish. If she’s here, it’s a takeaway of grilled seabass from Fez Mangal near our home, listening to Steely Dan or Michelle Ngdecello, and by 10pm I’m in bed, ready to take on the week.”
“I could have taken one of every cashmere knit on display”
Streamlined Italian cover-ups for all seasons – from lightweight sweaters to capacious capes
Streamlined Italian cover-ups for all seasons – from lightweight sweaters to capacious capes
I had arrived early for an interview in Milan’s chic Brera district. Meandering the quiet streets to kill time, a shop window caught my eye with its display of a camel-coloured cape (€1,580). The supremely elegant cover-up was right up my aesthetic alley and drew me in to Lunaria Cashmere, a small boutique that specialises in fine knits for all seasons, from sweaters to coats to scarves – all wrought in a pleasing palette of muted tones.
Cashmere smoking jacket, €1,199; also comes in six other colourways
These are designs that are modern yet timeless; streamlined and beautifully made in yarn from the highlands of Asia (including Mongolia, China and Afghanistan). If money were no object, I would have taken one of everything on display, such as a slightly cropped smoking jacket (€1,199) in the richest shade of midnight blue, and a summer-weight slate-grey turtleneck (€474). What I did eventually walk away with, however, was the dove-grey reversible-collar Puff coat (€1,690), which I have worn almost daily for the past two months. It is, in fact, part-belted, wraparound sweater/part jacket and pairs well with everything from casual jeans to smart black slacks, providing just the right amount of warmth on a chilly summer evening – but also has lots of layering potential come autumn.
Cashmere Puff coat, €1,690; also available in seven other colourways
In the end, it was my friend who bought one of the covetable capes, which come in taupe or navy as well as camel. And if I had been feeling more generous – or had more space in my suitcase – I might have bought my husband a smart cable-knit crewneck sweater (€575) or Lunaria’s dressy take on a cargo shirt (€1,249). The range is also all available to buy online.
Jacques Grange’s perfect weekend in Paris
The interior designer’s bold, eclectic style has won over clientele as varied as Francis Ford Coppola, Karl Lagerfeld and, most recently, LVMH’s Cheval Blanc resort in St Barths
The interior designer’s bold, eclectic style has won over clientele as varied as Francis Ford Coppola, Karl Lagerfeld and, most recently, LVMH’s Cheval Blanc resort in St Barths
“Saturday starts with eggs and bacon at Le Relais Plaza at the Hôtel Plaza Athénée. This old-world hotel is like a home away from home and it’s an important part of my weekend routine.
After breakfast, I’ll walk through the Tuileries and on to the Palais-Royal, where I love the garden and the galleries that surround it. Pierre Passebon’s Galerie du Passage is a treasure trove of 20th-century furnishings and decorative arts, as well as photographs and sculpture. Another stop is By Terry for fragrances. Terry de Gunzburg has created a subtle one I like called Bleu Paradis. If I’m in the mood for clothes shopping, I’ll stop at Victoire Homme just around the corner – great for casual jeans and jackets. For more formalwear, I’ll head straight to Loro Piana for shoes and impeccably tailored shirts.
After a morning of browsing, I’ll head to Saint-Germain-des-Prés for more art and antiques. It’s technically part of my “work”, but I love it. Galerie Alexandre Biaggi specialises in furniture and decorative arts from the late 1930s and early ’40s and is a must, as is Galerie l’Arc en Seine for 20th-century lighting and furniture by Pierre Chareau and Paul Dupré-Lafon. India Mahdavi is another highlight: fun pieces by a talented architect and designer.
I’ll stop for a late lunch at Brasserie Lipp – a classic spot with authentic food and the perfect Parisian atmosphere. The pot-au-feu here is the ultimate comfort food. It’s ideal for people-watching – I always sit downstairs, never upstairs, as it just doesn’t have the same lively feel.
Next up might be a visit to the Calder-Picasso exhibition at the Picasso Museum, or I might go to see the Oceania show at the Musée du Quai Branly – Jacques Chirac. The Musée Yves Saint Laurent is another wonderful institution – and not because I designed the exhibition spaces! I go for the interesting mix of retrospectives and new programming.
Saturday night is for friends. We will start with a drink in the magnificent garden at Laurent, followed by dinner at Le Duc. It’s so uncontrived – the food is fresh and simple and the room feels like a small, intimate club. I love fish and Le Duc excels at seabass and salmon tartare, followed by grilled red mullet or turbot.
Sunday morning begins much the same as the day before, but perhaps with Greek yoghurt and strong coffee and reading Le Figaro and the Financial Times. I like to walk when I’m in Paris, including all over the Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen flea market, and especially the Paul Bert Serpette antiques market for dealers such as Xavier Chollet, who specialises in 19th-century French and Italian art and furniture, and Olivier d’Ythurbide and Benoît Fauquenot for rare 17th- and 18th-century objets d’art. I can spend hours exploring before having lunch at the Philippe Starck-designed Ma Cocotte. The seabream ceviche and the beef tartare are favourites, but everything is excellent.
Sunday winds down over dinner with friends and since Le Stresa, my beloved local Italian, is closed that day, I’ll go back to Le Relais Plaza, where my weekend began. They have the best steak tartare in town and I love the art deco ambience. Chances are I will be travelling somewhere the next day, so I’m in bed early, ready for the week ahead.”
Craig Green’s perfect weekend in London
The three-time recipient of the British Fashion Awards’ menswear designer of the year accolade is celebrated for his experimental but accessible aesthetic, and has collaborated with names from Moncler to Ridley Scott
The three-time recipient of the British Fashion Awards’ menswear designer of the year accolade is celebrated for his experimental but accessible aesthetic, and has collaborated with names from Moncler to Ridley Scott
“I live in Colindale, north London, near to where I grew up because that’s where my old friends are. It’s my escape from the frenetic fashion world. It’s just at the edge of the city so it has many parks and a real village feel. Everyone at the pub knows your name, just as they’ve known your family for generations. My local is the Greyhound in Church End, where my dad still goes.
I rise early and start Saturday mornings with a large cup of cold milk infused with coffee. I use instant; it sounds awful, but it tastes incredible. It’s a habit I picked up from my partner, Angelos, and it’s the perfect start to the day. I admit I spend part of the weekend working, but I love what I do, and it comes with the territory of having an independent business.
When I’m not in the studio, I might walk on Hampstead Heath, but for culture I’ll head for the Hayward Gallery in the Southbank Centre. I’m a fan of brutalist architecture and dream of showing a collection there one day. I also love the Barbican and the Whitechapel Gallery for their brilliant programming.
I’ll often have lunch with friends in Sunny Hill Park, near home. I love the Middle Eastern-inspired food at Sunny Hill Café, especially the falafel. But the Serpentine is always an adventure, so on a nice day I might walk through Hyde Park and have lunch at the café there.
I’m always interested by Machine-A, a Soho boutique that showcases a lot of young London-based designers; it’s often the first store to stock their collections, making for an interesting mix of experimental up-and-coming independent labels alongside more established brands.
Whenever I am in central London I seem to end up in Selfridges. I used to go with my parents as a kid and there are always exciting things happening in the store – especially on the fashion floors.
Back in north London, Kiplings Tandoori has been our family go-to for years – but Jun Ming Xuan in Colindale is a newer favourite: it’s possibly the best Chinese restaurant in London. They serve dim sum by day, but in the evening it becomes a white-tablecloth kind of place with dishes such as grilled chicken dumplings and pork ribs.
I might then head to the Everyman Cinema in Hampstead. I love the disaster and horror genres and I’m obsessed with zombie films like Sleepwalkers by Stephen King. Even if I’m home early, I stay up late watching these movies, much to Angelos’ chagrin: he’s more of a Woody Allen type.
On Sunday mornings I’ll have something a light breakfast, then do a bit of shopping. Dover Street Market in Mayfair is incredible for design inspiration, even if I’m not buying. I have a sweet tooth and the Rose Bakery there is amazing: I always opt for cakes that look rustic and homemade versus faux fancy.
If the weather is good, I might make for the Towpath Café on Regent’s Canal – it’s great for people-watching and they serve excellent sandwiches. The De Beauvoir Arms in north London is another favourite. Their chorizo with red wine is so good we talk about it in the studio all week.
The day usually winds down at my mum’s house where we gather for a roast. Everyone hangs in the garden and I’ll escape home at around 8pm to just listen to music or read. I used to look forward to leaving town at the weekends, but now my week is such a whirlwind and I travel so much, being home is the ultimate luxury.”
Neal Benezra’s perfect weekend in San Francisco
The director of the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art oversees the largest modern art collection in the US after a recent $305m renovation and expansion of the institution
The director of the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art oversees the largest modern art collection in the US after a recent $305m renovation and expansion of the institution
“I’m up by 6am, even on a Saturday, and I’ll escape catching up on work emails by making a breakfast outing to Plow on Potrero Hill, where they make the most fantastic lemon ricotta pancakes.
Saturday mornings are great for farmers’ markets, such as the small but excellent one on 24th Street, near my home in Noe Valley. I am an improvising cook so I go by what is fresh, but I’m a particular devotee of broccolini and California artichokes. While there are many vendors I love, Cowgirl Creamery is a favourite for superb cheeses, especially a good, sharp Gorgonzola.
With the food shopping done, I’ll head to Browser Books on Fillmore Street. I’m still a store shopper as I like to feel a book’s weight, see the colour and the typeface. Aesthetics are important and this intimate shop is a rare treat these days.
Lunches are casual and, if my daughter is in town, we might go to a burger joint called The Ramp on San Francisco Bay. Then I’ll take in some of the Bay Area art scene, which is having a moment. As well as established places, there are interesting new ones popping up; I’ll wander around Dogpatch, home to the Minnesota Street Project’s communal galleries and the McEvoy Foundation. Then, just below the Bay Bridge on the Embarcadero sits Pier 24, an exciting space for photography set up by the Pilara family.
Because San Francisco is such a foodie city Saturday night reservations can be tough to get, so my wife Maria and I go early for dinner, followed by a film. A great spot is Tartine Manufactory in Mission. The space has a huge energy and the food is creative and delicious. I’ll have pork ribs with pumpkin-seed salsa and some of the bakery’s legendary bread – I take a hiatus from my low-gluten diet there. It’s in the same building as Heath Ceramics, so there is always a little shopping to be done while you wait.
Movies are a passion and there is no shortage of interesting cinema in this city. We’ll go to The Clay or Castro. I love these old-world movie houses and the Castro still has its 1920s frontage and an organist who plays before each screening.
Sundays we might head to Point Reyes and hike before having oysters for lunch at one of the funky shacks on Tomales Bay. Cycling is another passion and I love to head down to the peninsula, where I’ll ride around Palo Alto and Portola Valley – it’s less hilly than San Francisco and safer. The weather in the city can be dicey and it’s amazing that it is so warm and sunny just 30 miles away. It takes about 45 minutes to get there, but after a two-hour bike ride and a visit to the Anderson Collection at Stanford University, I feel I’ve had a complete mental cleanse.
Back in the city, the evening might involve another film at Modern Cinema at SFMOMA or the Pacific Film Archive at the Berkeley Art Museum. Dinner is at Out the Door, a Vietnamese in Fillmore that serves imaginative dishes like Shaking Beef – filet mignon with watercress, red onion and lime. Then I like to read the papers – from The New York Times to the Financial Times. We are a long way from the world’s major art capitals and it’s likely I’ll be flying to China, Abu Dhabi or New York the next day. Luckily, my weekends are about family and having some semblance of a life – that way I feel recharged and ready for the week ahead.”
Juan Pablo Molyneux’s perfect weekend in Champagne
The contemporary classicist’s illustrious interiors and opulent restoration projects traverse the globe and include royal palaces, historic châteaux and private homes
The contemporary classicist’s illustrious interiors and opulent restoration projects traverse the globe and include royal palaces, historic châteaux and private homes
“Saturday morning begins with walking my three dogs – an Alsatian shepherd, a Porcelaine and a Labrador retriever/terrier mix – who are as happy to be in the countryside as I am, with only the sound of the birds chirping.
My château, where the black swans, geese, turkeys and wild peacocks are out in force, is in Champagne-Ardenne, an easy and beautiful drive from Paris. The landscape is so refreshing: it’s green all year round, and we’re surrounded by quaint villages, each with a church dating from the 11th to the 13th century.
If the weather is nice after my walk, I’ll play tennis, or go for a horseback ride. Haras de Villechétive, a lovely stable nearby, brings the horses ready to ride, so all we have to do is explore.
Then, my wife Pilar and I will go to the farmers’ market in the village of Villeneuve-l’Archevêque, a place so atmospheric that you want to smell, touch and eat everything; the white asparagus, the melons, the seasonal berries and tomatoes all remind me of my childhood in Chile. There is also a wonderful boulangerie called Brissonnet Sylvain, where they sell a delicious speciality called Villeneuvien, a cake made with layers of the lightest crêpe.
One of the most magical towns in the area is Sens. It’s home to one of Europe’s earliest gothic cathedrals and was one of the most important medieval towns in France. My château was built as a fortress for Sens; you’ll see this architectural style all over the region, with buildings that are square and imposing, each with four towers, a moat and a dungeon.
After a morning in Sens, we might go south to Troyes, where the Musée Saint-Loup holds all kinds of archaeological and fine art masterpieces, such as Philippe de Champaigne’s La Réception du duc de Longueville dans l’Ordre du Saint-Esprit among the most important paintings.
For an excellent lunch, we’ll continue on to La Côte St Jacques in Joigny: the food, particularly the Bresse chicken steamed in champagne and the seabass with oscietra caviar, is the best of France.
On Saturday night we’ll have guests and cook what we bought at the market, or we might head to Auberge du Cygne de la Croix in Nogent-sur-Seine. It’s a simple restaurant with a warm atmosphere – the terrine maison is unmissable. Le Moulin du Landion, in a 18th-century water mill, is another lovely place for a night out. The cuisine is rustic but with sophisticated touches, and everything from the foie gras to the salads smells so fresh.
Sunday morning typically involves one of the brocantes – travelling antique markets. Moulins has one of the best in the region for 18th-century French country furniture and decorative objects such as candelabra. One of my favourite finds was a mismatched dinner service that’s perfect for festive dinner parties.
Taittinger and Ruinart are both close to home, and we like to visit the caves. It’s interesting to see how they store the champagne, but I’m more fascinated with the buildings, a mix of magnificent old arches and modernist elements. The Gallo-Roman chalk mines at Taittinger are now a Unesco World Heritage site, and Ruinart, also in Reims, is a historic site too. And, of course, we never miss the cathedral.
We also enjoy dining later outside at the spectacular Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte. It’s a bit of a drive, but Les Charmilles, the restaurant there, is magical by candlelight. Usually though, we stay home and have a late lunch or Mariage Frères’ black tea and sweets from Maison Caffet chocolatier in Troyes, before returning to Paris.
I almost always go back with a smile, ready for the week ahead. In any case, we bring baskets of freshly picked flowers to carry us through.”
A long weekend in Palm Beach with Aerin Lauder
The scion of the Estée Lauder empire, founder of global luxury lifestyle brand Aerin and Palm Beach habituée shares one-off shops, compelling cultural programmes and top ice creams with Christina Ohly Evans. Portrait by Jeffery Salter
The scion of the Estée Lauder empire, founder of global luxury lifestyle brand Aerin and Palm Beach habituée shares one-off shops, compelling cultural programmes and top ice creams with Christina Ohly Evans. Portrait by Jeffery Salter
“Palm Beach has always been a big part of my life. I grew up spending holidays here with my grandmother [Estée Lauder] and all of my family, and I love the beaches, the sun, the architecture…everything about the place. There is a clear sense of tradition here – people still don black tie for the annual Coconuts New Year’s Eve gala – but there is also an exciting, younger energy in town. The next generation is moving to Palm Beach, and there is an international draw because of its proximity to Miami, so the town feels more vibrant and creative than ever.
My grandmother – who was my mentor – always loved the elegance of Palm Beach; one of her earliest fragrances, Aliage, was inspired by the sporty lifestyle here. Estée always wore white pants, a Pucci shirt and a broad-brimmed straw hat, and my Palm Beach uniform isn’t much different – though I tend to wear white jeans instead. The town is little changed since my childhood; the colours of the bougainvillea, the sculpture gardens and the very specific Mediterranean style of architecture are all wonderfully intact. You’ll find these grand, sweeping estates, as well as beautiful apartments that were built by Addison Mizner in the 1920s. All of these homes and spaces have clear Spanish and Italian influences, with plenty of the white stucco that’s so perfect for the south Florida climate.
The pool at the Italian Renaissance-style Breakers Hotel
Palm Beach’s gardens are some of the most beautiful in the world. The Society of the Four Arts is one of my favourite places not just for flora – there are about 170 plant species including hibiscus, orchids and palms – but also for its incredible sculpture garden, complete with pergolas. It does all kinds of cultural programming – Simon Schama has been here, and documentary filmmaker Ric Burns – as well as concerts and screenings. This is a peaceful place to spend a morning, before heading to the nearby Lake Trail, a bike path that follows the edge of Lake Worth, past boat docks and historic homes and with gorgeous views along the Intracoastal Waterway.
There are all sorts of hotels in Palm Beach, from historical and grand to those with a more boutique feel. But the iconic Breakers, which was built in 1926 in the Italian Renaissance style, is among the best. This is a great spot for everything from tennis and golf to lounging by the pool in one of their cabanas; the spa and gym are perfection too. I’m a big fan of its breakfast buffet – which is served in a massive ballroom that makes you feel like you’re on an old ship. Its relatively new Seafood Bar offers some of the best crab cakes on the island. For a more intimate stay, Brazilian Court has apartment-style suites and also an excellent restaurant by Daniel Boulud, while I like The Colony Hotel in the centre of town for its old-world feel, complete with a beautiful high tea served on the porch.
The heart of Palm Beach is Worth Avenue. You’ll find some of the most incredible shops and restaurants here. One of the most special places, tucked away off Worth Avenue, is Via Mizner – a little courtyard, full of shops and restaurants, that’s on the US National Register of Historic Places. This whole area symbolises the Gilded Age and the work of architect Addison Mizner, whose designs line part of the street. I always encourage people to look up on Worth Avenue, because some of the most beautiful gardens dangle above them; even the palm trees lining the street are lit from below at night.
The shopping here is world class. Kassatly’s – opened in 1923, it’s Worth Avenue’s oldest shop – is a must for towels, while Leta Austin Foster is an institution for luxurious D Porthault linens and children’s clothing. Just next door you’ll find CJ Laing, one of the best places to stock up on cover‑ups, sandals and straw hats. For anyone interested in monogramming and embroidery – of everything, from hand towels to clothing – or even in personalising an order of Oreo cookies, Lori Jayne Monogramming & More is a truly unique find; she will customise virtually anything and her shop is a hidden gem. Hive is another must, for the array of housewares and accessories and, particularly, for the beautiful selection of notecards.
The elegant, old-world patio at Renato's | Image: Nickolas Sargent
In addition to great shopping, Via Mizner has some excellent restaurants. You can sit outside at Renato’s and enjoy really classic, fresh food: roasted baby artichokes and Dover sole in a beautiful setting. For a more casual bite, I like lunch or dinner at the nearby Pizza al Fresco; it has an excellent thin‑crust frutti di mare pizza and a lovely garden under twinkling lights.
What’s exceptional about this shopping area is its mix of old and new; you’ll find names like Valentino just up from a florist, Tom Mathieu, who does incredible arrangements with tropical plants. Trillion is another classic, with a hugely colourful array of cashmere for men and women. Its Italian sweaters in shades of hot pink, mint and purple are perfect for Palm Beach, and the shop is considered an institution for menswear in particular. Worth Avenue is also home to Mary Mahoney, a noted home-decor boutique where I always find unique glassware and Buccellati silver. And for lovers of vintage, there is no better place than Palm Beach because there is always an estate sale on somewhere. And the Church Mouse on South County Road is a treasure trove of everything from antique furniture to 1960s evening bags and clutches by Emilio Pucci.
Via Mizner, a Gilded Age courtyard, is home to many local restaurants and shops | Image: Susanne Kremer/4Corners Images
One of the newer additions to town is Sant Ambroeus in the Royal Poinciana Plaza, a sister to the New York and Milan cafés. I love it for breakfast, lunch, dinner and sometimes a hazelnut gelato from its standalone cart. But I’m actually very loyal to Sprinkles, the local ice cream shop nearby, because I’ve been going there all my life, and the homemade coconut ice cream is outstanding. For even more old-fashioned atmosphere, there’s Green’s Pharmacy on North County Road; it has a traditional soda fountain counter and makes the best grilled cheese sandwiches and vanilla milkshakes in town. You’ll also find things like Whitman’s Sampler boxes of chocolates and practical sun hats. The whole place is purely nostalgic.
For a short road trip, head just an hour south to Miami where the new Surf Club is both sleek and glamorous. The restaurant there, Le Sirenuse, serves food just like the food at the original in the famous hotel in Positano. You actually do feel transported to the Mediterranean.
Chic cover-ups, straw hats and bags at CJ Laing
My grandmother loved Palm Beach for the natural beauty, the sense of tradition and the people. Even today, there’s an embracing of the old world, but also a younger generation that feels tied to the area. The times that I shared here with my grandmother – visiting the Flagler Museum, sitting in the sunroom in her chairs or just cycling along the bike path – I now enjoy with my sons. I always hope that when people come to Palm Beach they access those same feelings of warmth and history. It is a place for people of all ages, with all kinds of varied interests; but Palm Beach hasn’t changed much over the many years I’ve been coming, and that’s what makes it so special.”
Marc Glimcher’s perfect weekend in New York
The art dealer and president of Pace Gallery, which represents artists including Mark Rothko and James Turrell, has recently overseen global expansion to a 10th location, in Hong Kong
The art dealer and president of Pace Gallery, which represents artists including Mark Rothko and James Turrell, has recently overseen global expansion to a 10th location, in Hong Kong
Marc Glimcher at the Whitney Museum of American Art in New York | Image: Ike Edeani
“My wife Fairfax and I begin Saturdays with matcha and meditation, then a bit of rounding – a yoga-like practice – before one of the healthiest breakfasts imaginable: scrambled eggs with parsley, and smoked salmon, sauerkraut and avocado. I spent the first 50 years of my life eating sugar, and the past three eating healthily, and I finally feel terrific.
My weekends are all about family and rejuvenation; they are the crowning achievement of the week. However, in the art world there is no division between your work and personal life, so art is always woven into Saturdays.
Sometimes I’ll take out the Tesla and go and see artists such as Julian Schnabel downtown. Studio visits are a relaxing way to see artist-friends when I’m not trying to get to another appointment. But more often than not, our family of six – I have four kids from my previous marriage – will walk around the city, visiting museums. Our go-to is the Whitney, where we’ll see a show and have healthy salads at Untitled, Danny Meyer’s restaurant, before heading uptown to my all-time favourite institution, the American Museum of Natural History. I’m a geek, so this place, with its gems and relics, really appeals – and I force everyone to come, because it’s a masterclass in how to present ideas and images. Afterwards, we’ll head across the street to Gari Columbus for the best sushi on the Upper West Side.
I like to stroll downtown and stop at the Astro Gallery of Gems – Fairfax and I are huge collectors of crystals of all kinds. Then it’s on to Books of Wonder for the kids, followed by the photography shop Adorama for the Leica cameras, my weakness.
We all love ABC Carpet & Home for things we don’t need, from tarot cards to all manner of drinking glasses. If we time it right, we’ll go to ABCV, Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s new plant-based restaurant: the spinach spaghetti and roasted mushrooms are not to be missed.
Our afternoon stops include Grimm Gallery on The Bowery and the David Zwirner and Hauser & Wirth galleries in Chelsea. We’re building a gallery on West 25th Street, so I’ll go by and check on the progress, then we’ll walk our Maltese, Matisse in Madison Square Park and return home for a little meditation before dinner. Saturday nights are either early – at I Sodi, where you have to go at 5.30pm to get a table because the pastas are so fantastic – or late, tequila-fuelled affairs at Cosme, where the Mexican chef makes excellent marinated cobia al pastor.
Fairfax’s meals are more elaborate than mine, so Sunday’s avocado toast comes with nettles and chillies. On these leisurely mornings, we watch CBS Sunday Morning for an upbeat start, followed by CNN for the bad news – and we never miss The New York Times.
I’ll go to the Equinox gym for a quick, intensive workout. I believe the trick to consistent exercise is to not have a trainer; it’s just another relationship that gets in the way.
In the afternoon, we’ll make time for our family band – between us we play the guitar, the ukulele and the drums. Then we’ll head to EN, the Japanese brasserie, where I order the salmon rice and steamed gingko nuts for sharing, or to Il Buco in NoHo, where the intimate atmosphere and the sinful porchetta make for a cosy and delicious meal.
The day winds down with The Leftovers, my current favourite TV programme. Then I pack my bags for Palo Alto, or London, or Seoul…”
Alára: an ode to African creativity in Lagos
This dramatic, multilevel David Adjaye-designed Lagos concept store celebrates pan-African craft, from fashion to furnishings
This dramatic, multilevel David Adjaye-designed Lagos concept store celebrates pan-African craft, from fashion to furnishings
“People don’t come here for basics, but for glamour,” says Reni Folawiyo, founder of Nigerian concept store Alára. Set in the burgeoning Victoria Island district of Lagos, the space is a design lovers’ dream: a multi-level theatrical building by Ghanaian-British architect David Adjaye that hosts an eclectic mix of fashion, art, furnishings and decorative objects – some sourced in Europe, but many more from other parts of Africa, including the mountains of Morocco.
Alára – or “wondrous performer” in Yoruba – was chosen by Folawiyo “because there are so many performance elements to the space,” she says of the store’s calendar of fashion shows, art exhibits and pop-ups – plus the bustle of Nok, the restaurant tucked behind the main building. It is helmed by experimental Senegalese chef Pierre Thiam, who takes classics of African cooking to new epicurean heights.
A selection of Gillian Fuller bead cuffs, $77 each, on a Danye woven placemat, $87 | Image: Lex Ash
It was a casual conversation with fashion designer Duro Olowu that led to the selection of Adjaye for this bold project to celebrate pan-African craft. “He’s African and shared my vision of discovery and wonder immediately. This was an emotional endeavour for everyone involved, as we all want our country to do well,” says Folawiyo. The result of their collaboration is a dramatic three-storey glass and metal-clad structure that’s inspired by both traditional Yoruban adire textile patterns and the saturated red colours of the Nigerian soil.
Behind the striking façade, items are displayed exhibition style; the first floor is dedicated to women’s clothing labels such as YSL, Dries Van Noten and Duro Olowu, though it is the kaleidoscopic dresses ($1,000) by Nigerian talent Amaka Osakwe that embody the Alára ethos. “Her collections [for Maki Oh] tell stories in interesting and contemporary ways and are very grounded in her culture,” Folawiyo says of Osakwe’s locally dyed silk and adire creations. Colourful accessories include beaded cuffs ($77) by South African Gillian Fuller, and iridescent earrings ($300) from Danish jeweller Monies.
A robust menswear offering “is focused on creative, informal weekend wear that is suited to the tropics,” says Folawiyo, citing jackets ($400) by Post-Imperial and cool kaftans ($300) by local designer Kenneth Ize. Customised Cartier and Rolex watches (from $33,000) by MAD Paris, rhodium and rose-gold Tateossian cufflinks (from $300) and grooming staples including Men’s Society beard oil and brushes ($100 per set) stand out on display against Adjaye’s wenge-wood finishes.
But what makes this shopping experience so special is the continually changing finds from Folawiyo’s colourful buying trips. On any given day, embroidered Tuareg trunks from Mali might sit beside sculptures from Senegal and Burkina Faso, furniture discovered at Milan’s Salone del Mobile, north African Berber carpets ($2,000) and origami-inspired Lumio lights ($300).
But the beating heart of the store lies in those pieces created by local talents. “We encourage young African designers to pull from their rich history and culture,” says Folawiyo. “Most of all, we just hope kids will come in and see the limitless design possibilities…”
Daniele Riva’s perfect weekend on Lake Como
The master builder of the Cantiere Ernesto Riva is the eighth generation of the Como family to craft exquisite wooden boats, from simple skiffs to vaporinas, entirely by hand
The master builder of the Cantiere Ernesto Riva is the eighth generation of the Como family to craft exquisite wooden boats, from simple skiffs to vaporinas, entirely by hand
“Lake Como is the best place to be in summer; the weather is good, the food excellent and it’s very safe – the doors are always open. Little has changed here over the centuries and the days are very carefree. My weekends are spent in nature, either out on the water or hiking and biking with my children, Sara and Stefano.
Saturday starts at Poletti, in the small town of Laglio where I live; the cappuccino and jam-filled croissants are the best you’ll find anywhere. This place is an institution and everyone comes here to start their day with bread, cakes and pastries, including crisp chiacchiere during carnevale. I also like Da Luciano, another family-run place, at any time of day; it’s part café, part deli, part wine bar, and the bresaola is a must.
After a light meal, we might hike around the lake, past the medieval Isola Comacina. The island once belonged to Milan, and when it finally gained independence in the 12th century it was burnt to the ground. Every year in late June we celebrate its independence with a festival of fireworks and music, and the island is lit up with red maritime lights. It is best to watch from the water on a Lucia, a traditional flat-bottom fishing boat; an Inglesina, a covered boat designed in the 19th century to protect the English from the strong sun; or from a vaporina, one of the chic mahogany motorboats synonymous with la dolce vita.
If we’re feeling energetic, we’ll hike all the way to Tremezzo. The villas and gardens lining the lake show off all the cultures and architectural styles that have touched this area over time, and one of my favourites to visit on a Saturday afternoon is the Villa Carlotta, across from Bellagio. The gardens are extraordinary; full of rhododendrons, azaleas, bamboo and all kinds of statues and fountains. I also love the spectacular 18th-century Villa del Balbianello, perched high above Lenno: it featured in Casino Royale and now showcases an incredible collection of artefacts from around the world.
Lenno is home to the glamorous Grand Hotel Tremezzo, but on a Saturday evening we’ll go there for La Fagurida, which serves authentic Lombardy cuisine. It has beautiful views of the lake – maybe the best – and the friendly owner, Adriana, serves excellent polenta uncia, a local dish with garlic, butter and sage.
Il Sereno, the contemporary hotel designed by Patricia Urquiola, is another lovely spot to watch the sunset. It’s ideal for an aperitivo and they have a delicious tapas-style tasting menu. Or we might go to Blevio, home to Momi, for homemade pappardelle and fried lake fish such as perch or lavarello. The chef, Momi, holds cooking classes and will take six guests to the market in the morning and help them cook a hearty meal, prosecco in hand.
Sundays are for relaxing with friends and family and we’ll often go to Como, stopping to admire the gothic cathedral and the colourful Palazzo Broletto. La Vita è Bella, a small restaurant on the harbour is good for a light salad before visiting the fascinating Silk Museum. Como is more commercial than some of the other towns, but it has its charms. One of my favourite shops is L’Arte di Modellare il Cuoio, a little leather atelier that specialises in handmade accessories.
Later, I might take my electric boat Ernesto – named after my father – out on the lake, or we might ride the funicular up to the quaint town of Brunate, the place to enjoy mountain foods – creamy polenta, casoretta and zincarlin cheeses, and the local favourite, pizzoccheri, a buckwheat pasta dish. Full of good food and fresh air, I’m ready for the week ahead.”
A long weekend in Buenos Aires with Nacho Figueras
From the “best steak in the world” to boots fit for a prince, the polo champion and Ralph Lauren ambassador shares his local secrets with Christina Ohly Evans. Portrait by Javier Pierini
From the “best steak in the world” to boots fit for a prince, the polo champion and Ralph Lauren ambassador shares his local secrets with Christina Ohly Evans. Portrait by Javier Pierini
Architecturally and spiritually, Buenos Aires is a very European city, so it’s often referred to as ‘the Paris of South America’. There are a lot of similarities between the two, for sure – many of the parks and streets were designed by the same people – but in the end, the feel here is distinctly Latin. I think we have a very Spanish/Italian flair, with our love of food, style and overall enthusiasm for life. I travel the world, and no matter where else I visit, I always love BA best. It’s a magical city and it seems to exceed expectations every time.
There has been a rich mix of people and cultures over the past 100 years, and you really see that in the diverse architectural styles and neighbourhoods, as well as in the art and different cuisines. One of the most beautiful periods for Buenos Aires was the belle époque era in the early 1900s, when Argentina was one of the wealthiest countries in the world. During this time some spectacular buildings, such as the Alvear Palace Hotel in Recoleta, were built, and I always recommend a stay here if you want to feel the magic of old‑world Buenos Aires. It was totally renovated recently, but the big top-floor suites still have a classical feel and some have terraces overlooking the city.
The colourful façades of the city’s La Boca district | Image: Estock/4Corners Images
The Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt is another grand hotel that’s set in a former mansion, but it has a more minimalist feel than the Alvear. The unique thing here is the rear garden; it’s a complete urban oasis, and a great place to meet for drinks on a warm evening. Then there is the Home Hotel, in Palermo – our version of Williamsburg, Brooklyn – which has a more boutique-y feel, a Nordic-meets-South America design. The very simple but beautiful pool is surrounded by jasmine and all kinds of greenery. But of all the places to stay, one of the best-kept secrets is Estancia La Bamba de Areco, which is just an hour or so outside the city. If you’re looking for horseback riding, a real asado, authentic gauchos and polo playing, this place is just incredible.
The heart of Buenos Aires is the French heritage district of Recoleta, where you’ll find the more formal hotels and shops, as well as some of the best restaurants in the city. One of the most impressive sights here is Recoleta cemetery, which dates from the 18th century and is packed with mausoleums – some beautifully maintained and others in disrepair. Recoleta is the perfect area to shop, and Arandú is a great resource for all kinds of equestrian things; you’ll find cowboy boots, saddles and traditional gaucho bags in bright colours among three floors of gear. Florería Atlántico in Retiro is another favourite. It’s an incredibly fragrant flower shop by day and a lively bar by night, and they serve their own gin that’s flavoured with Argentinian yerba mate tea.
For a slightly more fun, funkier feel I like Palermo Soho and also the tree-lined streets of Palermo Chico. The best steak in the world is at La Cabrera, where the huge slabs of ojo de bife – or ribeye steak – are served with traditional sides and a chimichurri sauce made of garlic, chilli and coriander. The room will be packed with Argentines and tourists alike, and it’s a real taste of local life. Nicky NY is the place for sushi with a lot of ambience, but what I really love is the Harrison Speakeasy bar that’s downstairs. It has a very special, festive vibe, though getting in can be tricky.
This area has culture to offer as well, including the Museum of Latin American Art of Buenos Aires – or MALBA – where the modern and contemporary Latin American art is world class, and so is the granite building that contains the collection. The restaurant here – Ninina – is a perfect spot for a relaxing lunch outside on the patio.
Tango in San Telmo | Image: Getty Images
One of the best additions to Palermo Chico in the past few years is the concept boutique Casa Cavia. It’s set in a beautiful white mansion from the 1920s that’s been updated and now includes a restaurant, bar, flower shop and bookstore. I like to have lunch here because not only is the food excellent, the architecture is a mix of historical and contemporary features, and the scene is always lively.
If you’re looking for an haute cuisine experience, then Tegui in Palermo Viejo is the place to try star chef Germán Martitegui’s set menus, which include unique takes on Argentine classics. The chef is often there, making it feel intimate and special, and while the entrance is unassuming, it is regarded as one of the best restaurants in South America. So is Francis Mallmann’s Patagonia Sur in the colourful La Boca neighbourhood. It’s set in a brightly painted private house that only has space for a few people and offers a fixed six-course menu. I take every special guest here – Ralph Lauren, for example – and it’s a wow every time.
Congress Square in the heart of the city | Image: Getty Images/EyeEm
The more eclectic San Telmo neighbourhood is another area for exploration, and one of the best shops there is Juan Carlos Pallarols. This silversmith has an international following, and he makes things like the Pope’s chalice – Pope Francis is Argentinian – as well as silver roses and sets of steak knives. He is a true craftsman and his work is so intricate and specific to Buenos Aires. The area comes to life on Sundays, when the Feria de San Telmo antiques fair is held. It’s like our version of the Marché aux Puces, and you can find treasures ranging from early-20th-century linens to full sets of silverware to leather bags and furniture.
There are certain things associated with Buenos Aires, and tango, polo and football are all top of the list. For football fans, a Boca Juniors game is a must; the atmosphere is electric. You’ll find tango all over the city, but the performance at the Faena Hotel in Puerto Madero is among the best, as Rojo Tango gets the top dancers. Although it’s a modern hotel, this is the place to see this musical art form.
Recoleta’s Alvear Palace Hotel recently had a total renovation
Polo is a huge part of my life, but also life in Buenos Aires generally. In November, the Argentine Open is played in fields in the middle of the city and everyone turns out. Polo is played every day at the Cría Yatay polo club, on one of my estancias outside the city, where I also give lessons on occasion and where we host various club matches. This city is a great place to buy kit for the sport, and for polo boots there is none better than Casa Fagliano in Hurlingham. It’s about an hour outside the city, but worth it for the custom boots that are favoured by Prince Charles and the Sultan of Brunei. The family that runs it is amazing; three generations work in the shop, fitting and sewing the boots, and the whole experience feels like being in Geppetto’s workshop.
In the General Díaz area, where I live, there is a great shop for all things to do with tack, called Logi Polo. You’ll find everything here – from helmets to cool T-shirts to polo mallets, of course. For visitors to this area, I always recommend Fettuccine Mario for dinner. It’s a very special restaurant that gives any Italian trattoria a run for its money. This place is old-school; the knowledgeable waiters – most of whom have been there for 25 years – wear white jackets and there is nothing fussy or corporate in sight.
We’re still a little slower here than the rest of the world, and I mean this in the best sense. In general, it’s stayed the same over the years and that’s a good thing. It still feels special and historical, minus the cellphones. Honestly, an excellent cellphone service is a modern curse. I hope people will come here and put away their phones for just a little while, because there is so much beauty to see and so much to experience.
A long weekend in New York with David Adjaye
The celebrated architect – currently building his first residential tower in Manhattan – talks cocktails in Dumbo and art in Harlem with Christina Ohly Evans. Portrait by Nicholas Calcott
The celebrated architect – currently building his first residential tower in Manhattan – talks cocktails in Dumbo and art in Harlem with Christina Ohly Evans. Portrait by Nicholas Calcott
I first came to New York as a wide-eyed architecture student in the 1990s and was immediately in awe of the greatest metropolitan skyline of the 20th century. It is truly a 24-hour city and the energy of it is just fascinating; it’s a world prototype for how different communities can come together and create a model of density.
I divide my time between London, New York and Accra, but my home here is in Harlem. And while I spend much of my time uptown, I find charm in every neighbourhood, including the outer boroughs. I especially love Prospect Park in Brooklyn – which feels like more of a hidden, suburban area – and also the burgeoning Financial District.
The terrace at Cecconi’s in Dumbo, Brooklyn, ideal for cocktails | Image: Dave Burk
In London you have about 30 different neighbourhoods that are all like little hamlets crashed into each other, but in New York there is a very different kind of urbanism. You can almost do resort breaks in this city: if you’re bored in a certain area, you can go to a park in a different borough, or walk along the water somewhere else. That diversity is its power. Another strength is the authentic intermingling of cultures and groups, which intertwine at moments to produce something new and beautiful, and diverge at others to allow differences to be preserved and respected.
One of the things New York does really, really well is tall buildings. Some of the best skyscraper architecture is downtown, including the iconic Woolworth Building and the Potter Building, with its fantastic, deep façade. Their craftsmanship and detailing make them not only unique but beloved. You can sense the human hand in their design and construction and they have inspired my current condominium project at 130 William Street.
There’s an organic quality to the layout downtown versus the more regimental grid uptown; and the incredible density of scale in this part of lower Manhattan is unlike anything in Europe. I’ve discovered a whole new world of amazing artisans, restaurants and shops down here, such as the incredible floral designs of Emily Thompson Flowers. The Beekman, with its dramatic atrium, has been faithfully restored and is a lovely hotel from which to explore some of the city’s first streets. Augustine is a new favourite for fantastic, unfussy food, while The Wooly Public – in the original restaurant space of the Woolworth Building – serves dishes that pay homage to the 1913 menu. It’s a fun play with the area’s history.
When friends come to New York I’ll often recommend they stay at The Mercer in SoHo; André Balazs is a master of crafting hotel experiences that reflect the cities they’re in, and this is no exception. The Mercer Kitchen is a great place to meet for a drink before dinner at Mission Chinese Food – an incredibly lively, fun spot that represents downtown done well. SoHo is also perfect for shopping: the fashion store Opening Ceremony on Howard Street is incredible. I think what Humberto [Leon] and Carol [Lim] have achieved there is remarkable, and the store is truly a trendsetter and a global destination. Rick Owens’ flagship, with its stark space that lets the collection shine, is another shop I always have to visit.
The northernmost stretch of the High Line at the Rail Yards | Image: Iwan Baan
Obviously, this city is rich in museums and galleries. Salon 94 on the Upper East Side is a great alternative to conventional white-box galleries, as visitors can experience artworks and performances in a furnished, inhabited space. And The Noguchi Museum in Long Island City is the perfect spotlight for a brilliant mind: the artist’s works are highlighted beautifully in a very peaceful space.
David Zwirner and Luhring Augustine are excellent galleries as well, and, of course, Marian Goodman is a must: Tony Cragg’s show there last year was stunning. The Brooklyn Museum has brought some of the most exciting and innovative exhibitions to the city, and its permanent collection is both daring and contextual, while The Studio Museum in Harlem is unparalleled in the way it supports both artists and its community. It’s incredibly rare to find an institution with a keen sensitivity to both these groups – its director and chief curator Thelma Golden is a national treasure. In terms of combining culture and food you can’t get more New York than The Modern, which overlooks MoMA’s sculpture garden: the restaurant is consistently good and integrated seamlessly into the institution.
The Beekman hotel in downtown Manhattan
The Upper East Side holds a particular charm for me, with its incredible mansion blocks and a street life that feels very much like London. It’s packed with cultural places, restaurants and local shops, and despite the height of some of the buildings and the density, it has a unique intimacy and generosity. I always recommend a stay at The Lowell because the rooms are cosy and personal; they feel almost like apartments.
The area also houses one of the world’s great modernist buildings, The Met Breuer. It’s a remarkable study in contrasts: the insular presence of the exterior, and the openness and intimacy of the interiors. A few blocks away is an Italian restaurant called Sette Mezzo, which I like for the grilled salmon and old-world feel – it harks back to a bygone era, when neighbourhood communities felt entrenched.
Prospect Park in Brooklyn | Image: Getty Images
I am a huge admirer of landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted, and beyond Central Park I really love Prospect and Fort Greene Parks, both in Brooklyn. Prospect Park is a masterpiece: the bucolic beating heart of Brooklyn that is at once a retreat and a cultural hub. Fort Greene Park is a great example of neighbourhood place-making. It’s a true community gathering space with an extremely local feel. And after a day spent in Brooklyn, there’s no better place than Cecconi’s, in Dumbo, for a cocktail with great skyline views on a summer evening.
Back uptown in Harlem there is such a rich history; in many ways it represents the quintessence of black urban modernity across the globe. Architecturally there are so many inspiring elements – from the iconic brownstone stoops to the beautiful churches with dramatic interiors, like the First Corinthian Baptist Church and the Salvation and Deliverance Church. Sometimes I’ll take friends to the Sunday church services at the Abyssinian Baptist Church – not so much for religious reasons, but because I just love the singing and the atmosphere.
An artistic Harlem highlight is Gavin Brown’s Enterprise, with its series of dramatic exhibition spaces. And, of course, there’s the Apollo. This theatre represents the successes and struggles of Harlem as the epicentre of urban black life, and the sense of history is palpable.
One of the best restaurants – and definitely the best jerk chicken – in the area is Red Rooster; not only is [chef] Marcus [Samuelsson] a culinary genius, but this place represents to me the true promise of New York, which is a space that actually supports and embraces diversity, and that is at once specific and personal. A more under-the-radar place is Accra Restaurant, which serves completely authentic Ghanaian food – plantain fufu, jollof rice – in a simple, lively setting.
When a city succeeds, it gives spaces back to its residents – like the High Line, or the wonderful little parks and squares that are found between the office towers in midtown Manhattan. Both New York and London are struggling with environmental issues and we need bold vision and leadership to keep imagining the possibilities for these magical, underused spaces. The mayors of both cities are exemplary in that they are both for the public – and when you get it right the money follows, because it creates a quality of place. I believe architecture can be a big part of that.
Californian jewellery mecca Neuwirth
The vibrant, whimsical jewellery and eclectic decor at this West Hollywood boutique are the characterful ying to Rodeo Drive’s yang
The vibrant, whimsical jewellery and eclectic decor at this West Hollywood boutique are the characterful ying to Rodeo Drive’s yang
It was a walk along opulent Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills that prompted LA-based jeweller Irene Neuwirth to open her eponymous shop in nearby – but decidedly lower-key – West Hollywood. “The high jewellery stores that line that street always felt a bit intimidating and I wanted to create the antithesis of that,” says Neuwirth of the light-filled boutique on Melrose Place she opened in 2014. “This is a place where people can relax and even have lunch while browsing, and everything is meant to be touched,” she says. “There are elements of a traditional jewellery store, but really it’s just an inviting space that’s a reflection of me.”
With her heart set on this historic building with its ivy-covered façade, Neuwirth enlisted the help of Pam Shamshiri of LA’s Commune Design to create an eclectic backdrop for the colourful, whimsical pieces she designs for clients including Ruth Negga and Julia Louis-Dreyfus. White plaster walls, gently curving archways and marble floors all lend an organic feel, while jewelled sconces from legendary set designer Tony Duquette’s estate, a vintage pink couch and hand-knotted Moroccan rugs add unexpected touches.
From top: turquoise, diamond pavé and gold ring, $6,930, and opal, turquoise and gold earrings, $3,260 | Image: Amanda Friedman
Sleek vitrines and a dramatic diorama by LA artists Clare Crespo and Marine Panossian display the creations to dazzling effect. Her style is a vibrant mix of rare, semiprecious and precious stones – opals have long been her signature (opal and turquoise earrings, $3,260), often in their raw state, set in burnished or satin-finished 18ct gold.
Among her most sought-after pieces are her pear-shaped Cutout Drop earrings ($2,440) in various shades of burnished gold, including a pair ($6,890) with Akoya pearls. Necklaces have a California cool-meets‑Rajasthan vibe, with eye-catching offerings such as a 46cm rose-gold chain ($67,960) adorned with “charms” of pink Australian opal, moonstone, tourmaline, beryl, Mexican fire opal and full-cut diamonds. Satin-finished rose-gold bangles ($6,530) studded with onyx cabochons, a carved turquoise ring with diamond pavé ($6,930), and aquamarine and turquoise cabochon pendants (from $730) are more classic in style.
Bespoke pieces have included a stunning tiara (price on request) with Mozambique rubies crafted for last year’s Oscars, shoulder-dusting sapphire and tourmaline earrings (price on request) for the Met Gala in oxidised 18ct white gold and mismatched cufflinks (price on request) made of raw diamonds.
No detail of the store has been overlooked – from the flamingo topiaries that flank the entrance to the hand-held vintage mirrors with sunsets and swirling vines by local artist Aaron Morse. The store’s eat-in kitchen, complete with Lacanche stove, adds warmth to the space and invites visitors to linger – Neuwirth often hosts clients there, serving lunches such as vermicelli with mint and cucumber from the store’s neighbours, Croft Alley. “The boutique is a sensory experience and we encourage people to try things on,” she says. “Who knows? If not now, they might wish to have a piece later.”
“I struck literal gold with the discovery of this jeweller on hippy-chic Hydra”
Fine jewellery and graphic home accessories hit the hot spot at Elena Votsi
Fine jewellery and graphic home accessories hit the hot spot at Elena Votsi
I have a thing for evil eyes – the little talismans intended to ward off a malevolent stare – and nowhere have I found them to be more abundant, or more beautiful, than in Greece. On a recent trip to the hippy-chic island of Hydra, just south of Athens, I struck literal gold with the discovery of Elena Votsi, a jeweller whose work is inspired by the sun and the surrounding Aegean Sea of her birthplace and who has worked on pieces in collaboration with Ralph Lauren.
Set in a whitewashed building on Hydra’s main harbour, Elena Votsi’s shop is a treasure trove of modern Greek finds
Set in a whitewashed historic Hydriot building on the island’s main harbour, the artist’s eponymous shop is a treasure trove of modern Greek finds. Simple, sleek display cases highlight both her bohemian designs, all handmade in Greece – think colourful leather lariats with silver fish pendants (€45-€65) and casual clutches (€140) emblazoned with Greek flags – as well as her more geometric fine jewellery pieces.
I was instantly won over by Votsi’s white ceramic mugs (€40-€90) with simple red and blue graphics of donkeys, fish and nautical flags – all symbols of island life – as well as by her cushions and assorted textiles (from €55) bearing contemporary versions of the traditional evil eye. If I had been travelling with more than a carry-on bag, I would have done some serious damage in this charming boutique, but as I refuse to check in luggage, my buying opportunities were limited to smaller, portable mementos.
Elena Votsi ceramic mugs, €40-€90 each
I had a lot of fun trying on a selection of jewellery, particularly brilliant red and sea-green ceramic evil-eye pendants (€650-€1,200) set in 14 and 18ct gold, eventually settling on a one-of-a-kind white marble disc (€1,100) with a miniscule evil eye engraved in gold at the centre. On the other side, the piece is inscribed with the uplifting Greek words for “light” and “life”. Sweet Christos Daskarakis, the store manager, tried to talk me out of buying the matching chain – “Surely you have one at home?” he reasoned – but the weight of Votsi’s links struck me as perfect for the charm, so I went for the whole package.
Elena Votsi marble and gold disc pendant, €1,100
For those in search of precious items that will translate well from beach life to the city, the store offers many of the exquisite pieces that Votsi – a Royal College of Art alum – is so well known for. I was particularly taken with one-of-a-kind stone “heart” pendants (from €7,000) accented with tiny gemstones; a diamond Eros ring (€11,000) set in 18ct yellow gold with white diamonds; and a magnificent gold charm necklace (€28,000) embellished with shells and sharks’ teeth.
Elena Votsi gold charm necklace, €28,000
Of all the evil-eye trinkets I amassed on this trip – Christmas tree ornaments, bracelets, a cerulean paperweight – my statement-making necklace is by far the most meaningful. I’ve worn it virtually every day since I returned home – with casual T-shirts or for a night out – and it reminds me of a spectacular trip and a truly unique island vibe.
Solakzade: a subterranean temple of vintage spectacles and sunglasses
From 200-year-old gold frames to 1940s Ray-Bans and new creations encrusted with jewels, this Tokyo emporium is a must for lovers of extraordinary eyewear
From 200-year-old gold frames to 1940s Ray-Bans and new creations encrusted with jewels, this Tokyo emporium is a must for lovers of extraordinary eyewear
In the basement of Tokyo’s iconic Goro’s Building (the orange townhouse in Harajuku where shoppers queue for hours to buy Goro Takahashi’s silver feather jewellery) is Solakzade, a subterranean mini-temple of vintagespectacles and sunglasses. There is little street signage and no window display to signal what lies within, but in-the-know visitors will find an eclectic and ever-changing inventory of classic and cutting-edge styles – all in mint condition.
1990s Jean-Paul Gaultier eyewear, about £400 | Image: Jeremie Souteyrat
Launched in this space in 2012 by brothers Ryo and Tatsuya Okamoto, Solakzade counts Kanye West and Kate Moss among its stylish clientele. “Our customers tend to be vintage lovers who might fall for rare, perfectly restored frames from the 1820s made of coin silver or solid gold [£400-£2,285] yet still look fresh and cool,” says Tatsuya. A journey through the 20th century could uncover original 1940s Ray-Ban aviators (from £320); 1960s Christian Diorsunglasses (from £330) featuring butterflies and the Eiffel Tower; and 1990s Jean-Paul Gaultier designs (about £400) with rose-tinted lenses.
The intimate space’s Italian 1970s chandeliers and antique mirrors cast a dusky glow over glass vitrines showcasing punky finds from cult avant-garde Japanese brand Matsuda (from about £300), alongside oversized futuristic styles from the 1960s by Philippe Chevalier (from £800), the under-the-radar designer of Lanvin’s eyewear line, and Pierre Cardin (from £330). There’s a vintage American Optical picture on the wall, while original Piaget and Cartier boutique display items – “we love vintage everything…” – adorn the marble countertops. And for very special customers a secret mirrored door leads to an equally enveloping VIP room.
Platinum-plated aviators (from £760) by Cartier – “best known for its fine jewellery but also one of the greatest brands in eyewear history,” says Tatsuya – sit comfortably beside Solakzade’s small selection of antique gold jewellery, displayed in drawers. Here the focus is on signet rings (19th-century English lapis ring, £2,500) and French tank rings (second world war-era gold and natural-cut diamond ring, price on request), but equally seductive are the bracelets, including a 1940s French gold tank bracelet, £4,600.
While Tatsuya handles buying trips across the globe, it’s Ryo who specialises in restoration, customisation and the brand’s bespoke eyewear. His limited edition and one-off creations include 18ct gold frames (made to order, from £5,000) embellished with Nepalese and Indian emeralds, sapphires and diamonds. Solakzade also handles everything from eye tests and prescription lenses to frame adjustments in its adjacent atelier, where the brothers delight in spending time with each customer – often 30 minutes or more – discussing what they call “cosmetic perspective”. “We like to think of our glasses as wearable works of art, and there is something to suit every face shape and skin tone,” says Tatsuya. “Those bold black Mad Men styles, for example, are simply too overpowering for some.” None of the frames are flea-market finds. “Making glasses is a beautiful craft and the condition of every pair is crucial. It’s what sets us apart.”
A long weekend in Los Angeles with Kelly Wearstler
From health-conscious eateries to pioneering galleries and fashion emporia – the city’s glamorous interior designer shares her address book with Christina Ohly Evans. Portrait by Emily Berl
From health-conscious eateries to pioneering galleries and fashion emporia – the city’s glamorous interior designer shares her address book with Christina Ohly Evans.
“The weather is always a draw in LA. Probably because in a world that feels increasingly frenetic and fast-paced, the relaxed, outdoor lifestyle is very accessible – and appealing. The city gets 47.3 million visitors each year; many come to feel the allure of Hollywood, but a lot also come from other creative fields: fashion, music, food. The art world, especially, has really exploded here over the past few years. It’s an easy place for different industries to come together – art and film, for example – and foster exciting ideas and emerging talents. In general, the energy, and the spirit, are very compelling.
The Beverly Hills Hotel exudes old-world glamour
Because you can spend hours in your car getting from one part of town to another, I recommend hotels based not only on style but also location preference – it is really important. For a true classic with elevated service and excellent people-watching, it has to be The Beverly Hills Hotel. It’s so iconic, so full of old-world glamour, from the pink stucco and Martinique banana-leaf wall covering to the fabulous pool and private bungalows. I love the classic striping of the grand entrance; you feel a true sense of arrival at this hotel, and the coming together of past and present. Those in the market for something a little more hip might prefer the Chateau Marmont, with its incredible views of the Hollywood Hills; I find my London friends like the laid-back, bohemian vibe here – it’s the quintessential LA experience, right down to the veggie burgers and huevos rancheros at brunch. Another favourite is the art deco Sunset Tower; it’s a classic, with great views of the city, and the best bar, serving the best Bellini in town. For a slightly more off-the-beaten-track stay, I like Hotel Covell, near Silver Lake, which opened just over two years ago and draws a younger crowd. It has a lived-in, residential feel with super-thoughtful interiors, from the hardwood floors to the salons with a mix of vintage and new pieces. It’s a place with soul.
For the full LA experience, you might want to start in Malibu, where the beautiful El Matador and Zuma Beaches, and the Malibu Country Mart, are excellent places to spend a day. The Sunday Farmers’ Market is worth a special detour; not only is the produce amazing, it’s a total celebrity bottleneck, which just adds to the fun. One of the best spots for lunch up here is Tra Di Noi, where you can sit on the patio and eat super-healthy versions of Italian classics like the excellent zucchini spaghetti with arrabbiata sauce. Another good lunchtime choice is Malibu Farm at Malibu Pier, where you can watch the sunset over a vegan kale salad or a cauliflower crust pizza. If you decide to make a night of it in Malibu, the new Nobu Ryokan, with its teak wood styling and beautiful, simple design that envelops the natural environment, is transporting – instant peace.
The Malibu Farm restaurant is popular for sunset-watching
Heading south along the Pacific Coast Highway you’ll hit Santa Monica, and my favourite neighbourhood: Venice. This is the best place to see the real LA, and the way to do it is on rollerblades, skating past the Santa Monica Pier and Muscle Beach before heading on to Abbot Kinney for all the shops, cafés and great restaurants. The Butcher’s Daughter, where they serve really healthy smoothies, is a can’t-miss. I try to eat as many raw foods as possible, and this place makes it easy. So does Erewhon – a health store with an unbelievable juice bar. My favourite is the peanut butter and banana concoction with added kale – it is much more delicious than it sounds. Venice has a few great shopping finds too. Heist is a favourite for both established and emerging local designers.
Stylish smaller shops such as The Row can be found in West Hollywood
Working out is a big part of LA life. Walking, biking and just being in nature are all priorities. If you want to go for a great hike, the Inspiration Point trail is a beautiful escape in the Santa Monica Mountains, with views all the way to Catalina island. One of the best ways to get to grips with Beverly Hills is to go for a run here, because the landscaping is so incredible and you miss a lot of it from a car. I recommend heading down Palm Drive and then up to the hills, past Canon, Beverly and Rodeo Drives. This is also an excellent way to scope out the shops before later in the day, when you can lunch at the old-school Fountain Coffee Room at The Beverly Hills Hotel. For excellent Italian food, I send people to Pizzeria il Fico, which has a cool, casual feel and perfect thin-crust pizzas.
Downtown LA’s Bestia serves excellent Italian food
It’s also worth exploring West Hollywood, particularly the Melrose area, where you’ll find great smaller shops: there’s The Row, Chloé and Isabel Marant, but also Brazilian designer Martha Medeiros, who specialises in lace dresses. The eating options here are great too. Ink’s Sack is the place for in-and-out creative sandwiches, and my go-to spot is Urth Caffé for either breakfast or lunch. It’s easygoing, with outside seating, and as the name suggests, everything – from the organic oatmeal to the grilled veggie with pesto sandwiches – is made with the freshest ingredients.
For uniquely LA shopping, there’s an outpost of The Future Perfect, which is actually a store within a midcentury house, near the Hollywood Hills; you’ll find all kinds of interesting furniture, design and decorative objects, complete with a backyard pool. And there is American Rag Cie: it has the best denim collection anywhere, as well as an extensive home store next door with beautiful tabletop items. Scout in West Hollywood is excellent for vintage clothing; I bought an incredible 1980s Valentino blouse with really big shoulder pads here.
One of LA’s smallest and most underrated neighbourhoods is Larchmont, situated at the meeting points of Hollywood, Koreatown and Hancock Park – the latter is considered the “first” Beverly Hills, because of the classic homes built in the 1920s and ’30s. Larchmont is a charming, family-friendly area and the restaurant row is great, especially Le Petit Greek Estiatorio – it’s authentic and delicious. For a more traditional meal, I love La Republique, a modern French bistro set in a historical space built by Charlie Chaplin in 1928. And I always send people to Sqirl, on the edge of Silver Lake, a casual brunch spot with lots of filling salads and vegetarian options.
The art scene has changed so much over the past few years, and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art has led the charge. And its scene keeps growing. The Broad museum, designed by Diller Scofidio + Renfro, is architecturally beautiful, as is the collection of contemporary art, while LA’s outpost of Hauser & Wirth has incredibly diverse programmes that support young artists. Honor Fraser is another excellent gallery; her “voice”, so to speak, and her style are singular. If you plan it right, you can see art in Downtown LA followed by dinner at Bestia – the most amazing Italian food in town, in an industrial-yet-chic setting.
What’s unique about LA is the number and variety of experiences you can have in one day – from surfing to visiting world-class museums, to shopping and enjoying a healthy outdoor lifestyle. It’s such an authentic place, and I hope it stays true to itself.”
A long weekend in Lisbon with Alexandra Champalimaud
The Portuguese-born interior designer divulges the best of her hometown’s timeless charms, architecture and delectable food to Christina Ohly Evans. Portrait by Pedro Guimaraes
The Portuguese-born interior designer divulges the best of her hometown’s timeless charms, architecture and delectable food to Christina Ohly Evans. Portrait by Pedro Guimaraes
I was born in Lisbon and lived in this magnificent city until my mid-20s, so to me it will always be home. It sits at the edge of the wild Atlantic Ocean, on the scenic Tagus River, and is built across seven hills, so it’s like no other city in the world – because of the extraordinary light, the diverse architectural styles and, most importantly, the people. The Portuguese are truly warm, welcoming and nurturing – playing host is second nature to them.
Much of Lisbon was built between the 16th and 18th centuries. Portugal was one of the great trading nations and had some of the most prolific navigators, including Vasco da Gama; it imported silks from Asia and India, and exotic wood from Brazil, and also craftsmanship that can be seen in the romantic detailing that graces the romanesque, baroque and manueline [late gothic] churches that are found everywhere.
A Cevicheria in Baixa – a great place for fish | Image: Francisco Rivotti
The city is like a conglomeration of small villages – each one rooted by a church – that contain real architectural charms hidden behind doors, often exquisitely carved. You’ll find buildings with glorious scaled windows reminiscent of the English Georgian period. The cobblestone streets are like labyrinths, and the brightly coloured façades and abundant sunshine add to the historic atmosphere.
Visitors are spoilt for choice with hotels – they run the gamut from large and lavish to much more intimate. One of my favourites is the Bairro Alto Hotel between atmospheric Bairro Alto and Chiado. It’s full of charm, with incredible views of the Tagus; it’s basically the embodiment of the Portuguese lifestyle. I highly recommend sitting at its Terraço BA bar at sunset – glass of port in hand, of course – before moving on to the excellent Flores do Bairro restaurant downstairs for its roasted octopus and tomato rice. Another favourite is the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz, which is absolutely glorious – I often find inspiration for my own work in this hotel. It was built in the late 1950s and is incredibly elegant; it overlooks Eduardo VII park with its very stylised terraces, and is close to all the chic shopping on Avenida da Liberdade. For a quieter setting, I’d suggest the Olissippo Lapa Palace hotel. It’s in a very tranquil residential area, has a lovely pool, ocean views and a casual restaurant called Le Pavillon that’s perfect for a light alfresco lunch.
The Baixa-Chiado district – the city centre – is great for its mix of small shops; there are lots of silversmiths and assorted artisans. Leitão & Irmão on Largo do Chiado is a traditional gold- and silversmith that specialises in jewellery and decorative objects. Vista Alegre is a must for old Portuguese porcelain, especially the gorgeous blue variety, but also for the green cabbage-motif plates that are so popular – they originated in Portugal. This area is also home to numerous antiques shops, where you’ll find maritime artefacts from the East India Company’s explorations of China. And one of my favourite sources of fine linens is here: Paris em Lisboa, a charming shop in the Chiado that specialises in white-on-white embroidered sheets and linen hand towels.
This neighbourhood is also a great spot for lunch, and Belcanto, with its chic setting, is probably its best place. The chef, José Avillez, has two Michelin stars, and his delicious food has Portuguese flavours but reflects a global approach to cooking. For a traditional bica – espresso – I always recommend the art deco-style Café a Brasileira. It exudes old-world elegance and there are works by important Portuguese painters such as José de Almada Negreiros. To just sit here on a long bench with pleasant strangers and savour a pastéis de nata– a traditional egg-custard tart – is a very Lisboan thing to do. As you explore, you’ll notice that the pavements are dotted with beautiful black and white cobblestones. I always tell friends to wear comfortable flats, because while Portuguese women have mastered the art of wearing heels on these uneven stones, most tourists have not.
Café and pastry shop Pastéis de Belém, a great spot for local colour | Image: TPHOTOS
Another must is a walk – or tram ride – up to Alfama, which is the city’s oldest quarter. You’ll be met with gorgeous views of rolling greenery, the Tagus and all the towering churches below. At the very top sits the Portas do Sol [Doors to the Sun] garden and the majestic citadel Castelo de São Jorge. This area is home to some of the most incredible Portuguese crafts; you can view them at the Decorative Arts Museum and its adjacent workshop. It’s amazing to watch the centuries-old gilding, leather binding, inlaying and woodworking still going on; such is the level of skill here that the Louvre entrusts the restoration of its books to these artisans. You can have a perfect lunch on the terrace at Chapitô à Mesa – an incredibly charming place with several different rooms and wide city views – before exploring the area’s churches. The 12th-century Sé Cathedral and the Magdalena Church are two of my favourites – so intimate and full of beautiful tile work.
Fado is Lisbon’s traditional folk music, incorporating mandolins and guitars, and you’ll probably hear it wafting through the streets in Bairro Alto and Alfama. You can just step into any casual tavern for a simple meal and listen to this wonderful singing; it sounds a bit like country music – the lyrics are usually about love and loss – and is always telling a big story.
The reception at Bairro Alto Hotel is overlooked by a mezzanine bar
It’s worth a quick trip just outside town to see the 15th-century Jerónimos Monastery, a glorious white marble cathedral built in the manueline style, with its intricate gothic detailing and classic gardens. You can also wander across the nearby bridge to explore the yachting centre; the seaside atmosphere is perfectly Portuguese, as is a lunch of battered fish or octopus and potato salad at Alcântara. My other choice, always, for seafood is the bustling Doc Cod, located at Santo Amaro docks, overlooking the river and the iconic 25 de Abril Bridge.
Once you’ve fuelled up, why not go to see the nearby Torre de Belém, which is an ode to the Age of Discovery. The modern concert hall is a beautiful, Carlo Scarpa-type structure with incredible acoustics. Afterwards, a great spot for local colour is café and pastry shop Pastéis de Belém; its signature Bolo Rei fruitcake is legendary.
The view of the ocean from the Torre de Belém | Image: Gabriele Croppi/ SIME/ 4Corners Images
If you only do one museum, it should be the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga, also called the Museu das Janelas Verdes for its location on the “Street of Green Windows”. It’s in the Palácio de Alvor, a former palace of the Count of Alvor, and exhibits incredible jewellery and precious stones from the 18th century, as well as inlaid furniture and decorative arts that date from the Middle Ages through to the 19th century. The Calouste Gulbenkian Museum is much smaller – a real gem – and contains one of the world’s greatest collections of Lalique jewellery.
But any visit to Lisbon should focus on food and drink. Anything involving cod, particularly bacalhau that’s been salted and dried, often takes centre stage on a menu. One of the best restaurants for authentic Portuguese food, and generally a festive night out, is A Travessa in the Bairro da Madragoa area. It’s housed in a 17th-century convent and the atmosphere is magical. Gambrinus in Baixa is the place to go for fresh fish – try the olive oil‑marinated mackerel or the amazing shellfish soup. The unassuming A Cevicheria is another great spot to enjoy fish, such as grouper or corvina [croaker] ceviche marinated in lime juice, along with a delicious Pisco Sour.
Unlike other European cities, Lisbon remains remarkably unchanged through history. Its slower pace of life is centred around family and friends. From the beautiful architecture to the artisanal shops and gourmet delights, I can’t think of any other capital city that still truly charms the way it does – and that feels so personal. When you come here, stress will feel a million miles away.
Vladislav Doronin’s perfect weekend in Miami
The founder of Capital Group counts Aman and the forthcoming Missoni Baia in Miami among his hospitality and residential holdings
The founder of Capital Group counts Aman and the forthcoming Missoni Baia in Miami among his hospitality and residential holdings
“Miami is such a dynamic place and there is always something to do, from tennis tournaments to Art Basel to the annual boat show. But what I love most is the weather: the sun and the outdoor lifestyle really agree with me, and I think it’s a very good, easy‑going place to raise children.
Saturday mornings at my home on Star Island begin at 8am with a cup of hot water, followed by Qigong meditation with the Tibetan monks I’ve been training with for a few years. This time is all about breathing and movement, and it clears my meridians and chakras. Afterwards I’ll go for a run on the beach with my trainer, or a long swim.
Breakfast is around 10am, and includes papaya, porridge, avocados and miso soup, plus eggs or turkey for protein. I’ll drink green tea and maybe some spicy green juice, which stokes my immune system. Saturdays in Miami are about family, and we always have at least six or seven people around the table, including my parents, plus my partner and children.
Much of the day is spent on the water, and if the weather is really nice we’ll head to Bimini or Eleuthera on my Riva Domino for a day in the Bahamas. More often, though, we’ll go by tender to Seaspice Restaurant for lunch overlooking the Miami River. The atmosphere is lively and the food healthy – I particularly like the salads and fresh fish. Or I might take my speedboat, a Wider 42, over to Key Biscayne and kite-surf with my trainer. I absolutely love this sport, so if we go, it’s at least a two-hour commitment.
I love spending time with my new English bulldog, Mozart, and I often walk him in Bayfront Park, which was redesigned by Isamu Noguchi in the 1980s. If the weather isn’t perfect, the afternoon might involve a visit to the Pérez Art Museum or the Bass Museum. I collect contemporary art and love both of these collections. I’ll also drop into the Taschen Store to stock up on art books. In the evening we like to eat out, and one of my favourite places is Casa Tua in Miami Beach. The owner, Miky Grendene, always takes good care of us. We’ll sit out in the lantern-lit back garden and enjoy simple pasta with tomato and basil, or a risotto with truffles. Another place for a night out is Cipriani, where I’ll order sharing plates of baby artichokes and marinated aubergine. The pan-roasted veal with limone is superb too, and I do like a good Tuscan red wine – a Gaia or an Ornellaia. I’m not so much a clubbing guy these days but if I do go out, it might be to the Wall Lounge in the W Hotel. In any case, I am usually in bed by midnight.
Sunday begins the same way, with meditation and exercise – but then I might go for a drive in my 1965 Jaguar E-Type. I love to drive and don’t often get the chance in London, so this is a real treat. I’ll probably end up having lunch with friends at Kyu in the Wynwood district, where the plant-focused food is light and easy. I like this place so much that it influenced our Japanese restaurant Nama, at Amanpuri. Later on, I’ll take the boat out for a cruise around Biscayne Bay and the islands, and do some fishing. You see the most beautiful sunsets from Key Biscayne, where there is less boat traffic and the views are unobstructed. For a drink I like the bar at The Setai –the Asian-inspired atmosphere is very relaxing. Then it’s home for dinner, prepared by my chef Fabrizio, which might include the fish we’ve caught that day. To end the day, I’ll watch a film or a TV series like Billions or Marco Polo in our 4D cinema. Often I fly back to London to arrive on Monday morning, but my Miami weekends give me an amazing energy and after just two days my batteries are fully recharged.”
A long weekend in Philadelphia with Tory Burch
The fashion designer-philanthropist shares dazzling historic monuments, hidden art collections and a few serious foodie havens with Christina Ohly Evans
The fashion designer-philanthropist shares dazzling historic monuments, hidden art collections and a few serious foodie havens with Christina Ohly Evans
It used to be that Philadelphia was a very conservative city, and not so much a visiting one – but that has changed. There is now so much on offer: great food, designer hotels, farmers’ markets. And of course there’s so much rich history too; the Liberty Bell, Independence Hall, The Franklin Institute Science Museum and the Barnes Foundation are all here. Basically the city is the birthplace of our democracy, so regardless of a person’s political views, after last year’s presidential election it’s more relevant, and I’d say interesting, than ever.
I encourage friends to visit even just for the day, since Philadelphia is only a little over an hour by train from New York. But there are great hotels to choose from, many with unexpected, nice design or tech touches. The Rittenhouse overlooks Rittenhouse Square and has an always-elegant ambience, with large suites refurbished by Alexandra Champalimaud – the palette of bright colours against rich, dark walls is so chic, and there’s a lovely leafy central courtyard. Another boutique offering is the Roost Apartment Hotel, designed by Morris Adjmi – he also did the very cool Wythe Hotel, in Brooklyn – which has contemporary furnishings by Patricia Urquiola and Roll & Hill, among others. Rittenhouse 1715 is smaller and more traditional, in a Georgian-style carriage house from the early 1900s, and its rooms are airy and stylish. It’s just a three-storey building set on a very quiet residential street, so it feels like a nice escape.
An indoor display in the Exhibition Hall at Longwood Gardens | Image: Alamy
So many neighbourhoods have come up over the past few years. One of the best to explore is Fairmount, where the Barnes Foundation is located. The Barnes is very near to my heart; the collections of post-impressionist and modern paintings, as well as Native American ceramics, textiles and jewellery, are among the finest in the world. The new building was designed by Tod Williams and Billie Tsien, and it respects the history of founder Albert Barnes’ original museum vision, but puts the art centre stage in light-filled gallery spaces. And the Barnes Foundation Arboretum, in suburban Merion, is well worth a visit for the beautiful gardens full of rare plants and trees. The monkey puzzle tree in particular is extraordinary – all twisted limbs and thorny leaves.
Fairmount is home to other world-class museums as well. There’s the Philadelphia Museum of Art, and the Rodin Museum – the latter has one of the largest collections of the artist’s work outside Paris. But a lesser‑known gem is the Fabric Workshop and Museum, with incredible contemporary art by Louise Bourgeois, Anish Kapoor and Carrie Mae Weems, among so many others, and it offers a programme of performance art and workshops for all ages.
The Fishtown neighbourhood is another must; this formerly dodgy area is now the Williamsburg of Philly, and it’s perfect for wandering. You can pick up a coffee from La Colombe, one of the city’s best roasters, before visiting the indie, old-school Philadelphia Record Exchange for any kind of music you can possibly think of. Pizzeria Beddia is a real Fishtown highlight; it has been deemed the best pizza in America by Bon Appétit magazine. Joe Beddia makes just 40 “pies” a day, and there’s no place to sit, so you have to get there very early to get served. The pizza arrabbiata is unbelievable. Once you’re fed, Jinxed Philadelphia is an incredible variety store where almost all the pieces are unique – everything from shiny metal housewares to vintage cameras to antique maps.Another Fishtown draw is Kensington Quarters, an industrial warehouse with a popular great meat-centric restaurant and butchery classes, and Little Baby’s Ice Cream, where the weird but interesting flavours – Cucumber Dill, Chocolate Salt Malt – are all delicious.
No trip to Philly is complete without one of the city’s famous cheese steaks. This local delicacy is the subject of debate; some people like Jim’s Steaks, some like Pat’s King of Steaks. I’ll take either, but the whole cheese steak thing is an experience, so load up with hot peppers and just enjoy. At the sprawling Reading Terminal Market, a historic farmers’ market that opened in 1892, you can find everything from traditional pretzels, made by the Amish, to beautiful, freshly cut flowers.
An all-American experience awaits in the Fishtown district with its shops, restaurants and bars | Image: Alamy
Philadelphia is, of course, known for its place in US history, and Independence Hall, which was where the Declaration of Independence was signed, is a must. The Liberty Bell – cast in London and brought to the US, where it immediately cracked – is another. Benjamin Franklin is buried at Christ Church, and people throw pennies at his grave – a symbol of good luck and a nod to his “a penny saved is a penny earned” saying – though this ritual has caused some damage over time, so it’s a little bit frowned upon now.
Sporting life is a big part of Philadelphia, and Boathouse Row on the Schuylkill River is a beautiful place to watch the rowers passing by, while there are all sorts of seasonal events on offer – the Radnor Hunt, the Dad Vail Regatta and the Philadelphia Marathon – that draw crowds from all over the world. As a child, I often went to watch the Phillies baseball and Eagles football games with my brothers, and at these events you’re always assured of an enthusiastic crowd.
Jim’s Steaks serves up the city’s famous cheese steaks
The Old City area is full of quaint Federal and Georgian-style buildings, so a stroll here is well worth it for the architecture alone. But shoppers won’t be disappointed with the excellent vintage shops and indie boutiques along North Third Street, where Vagabond is one of the best for clothing by emerging designers – look out for Ajaie Alaie and UZINC, from Brooklyn – and also unique decorative things for the home. There is also Antique Row on Pine Street for a mix of old and new stores, galleries and cafés.
There are all sorts of treasures outside the city as well, not least some world-class gardens. I’d highly recommend a trip to Longwood Gardens, which are beautiful year round, but especially during the holidays. One of the largest parks in Philadelphia, Fairmount, is on the outskirts of town; it has hiking and biking trails, as well as a Japanese house and garden, called Shofusu, that is spectacularly lovely. If you go here, plan for a Sunday brunch at the Valley Green Inn, where the French toast is legendary.
The Rittenhouse is a luxury boutique hotel in the heart of the city
Philadelphia’s Main Line – the western suburbs that were built along the main line of the Pennsylvania Railroad – is no longer a series of sleepy communities; some of the most exciting restaurants and shops are here. B2 Bluefin Sushi, in Bala Cynwyd, is one of the best sushi restaurants I’ve eaten at anywhere; and the very chic boutique Kirna Zabête is a great addition to Bryn Mawr. This offshoot of the popular New York store of the same name is fantastic for fashion finds, from Loewe to Proenza Schouler.
There is no bad time of year to visit Philadelphia, though I prefer the city in the spring and autumn when the gardens are in bloom, and it isn’t so hot and humid. The Fringe Festival in September is an annual highlight – a citywide celebration of art, dance and theatre. For visitors in July, the fireworks over the Philadelphia Museum of Art offer a real dose of Americana. Regardless of the season, there is really something for everyone. I love that Philadelphia has become more accessible and more diverse, and that the food scene is world-class – but that it still feels like home.