JAR dazzles at The Met

The museum shop sparkles during a glittering blockbuster

It takes quite a bit to excite jaded New Yorkers, but lovers of fine jewellery and fashion are in a state of high anticipation about the Jewels by JAR exhibition opening at The Metropolitan Museum of Art on Wednesday November 20. In addition to the wide selection of the ever-elusive master craftsman’s exquisite creations on display, he has also produced a collection of earrings and watches that will be available to buy for the duration of the show.

Joel Arthur Rosenthal – aka JAR – is rarely in the public eye, despite being hailed as one of the most important jewellers today. Indeed, he is the first contemporary gem artist to have a solo retrospective at The Met. It comes as no surprise that the show is shrouded in mystery, with only a few images being released before the previews. What the exhibition does promise, however, is a profusion of vibrant gemstones, pearls and cameos – all set in an unusual array of metals, including platinum, green gold and titanium – from an exquisite pair of Lilac brooches comprised of diamonds, sapphires, garnets, aluminium, silver and gold to one of the exuberant, fire-opal-  and amethyst-encrusted Butterfly brooches.

JAR is revered for his use of coloured rare and precious gems, such as the Cameo and Rose Petal brooch (first picture) or his Multicoloured Handkerchief earrings (second picture), but this exhibition also makes clear his love for semiprecious stones and materials such as ivory, coral, rock crystal and jasper, which are often overlooked in haute joaillerie.

Of the pieces for sale, eight earring styles range in price from $2,000 to $7,500, including the striking Tickle Me Feather in 18ct gold plate ($7,500, third picture) and the sculptural Carnaval à Venise ($2,000, fourth picture), while two watch styles will retail for $600 each, thereby putting the jewels of JAR within more of his adoring fans’ reach.

A gemological blockbuster in the making.