The Beach Cures Everything at This Rhode Island Inn

Weekapaug Inn
Weekapaug, Rhode Island
Understated New England elegance, $$$

I first visited the Weekapaug Inn over 30 years ago for a family reunion, and I'm pleased to report that not much — or at least none of the great parts — has changed in the slightest. Founded in 1899 in traditional Cape Cod style, the quaint inn was refurbished between 2007 and 2012, and the results are a perfect mix of low-key chic and authentic coastal charm, which have earned the inn accolades like “Best Hotels in the World” (Travel + Leisure) and “Most Charming Hotels” (Reader's Digest).

Set on the Atlantic Coast overlooking a serene salt pond and a barrier beach beyond, the Inn is an ideal escape for Covid-centric times. The property is surrounded by water, natural rock formations, and an expansive lawn that allows for complete social distancing, and the management seems to have thought of every possible safety protocol. Staff wear tasteful masks in keeping with the Inn's New England aesthetic, everything is religiously wiped down (even by the valet!), and space and fresh air are in ample supply. Read more about their safety protocols here. Guests don't need to fret about every interaction here, and can, instead, can focus on eco-explorations, long beach walks, or simply tucking into a good book from the comfort of an Adirondack chair.

Book It

Rates start at $365. Click here for reservations. Or contact the Fathom Concierge and we can book your trip for you.

At a Glance

The Vibe: Cape Cod kicked up ten notches. The cedar-shingled hotel — as well as its understated pool and fitness facility — meld seamlessly into the rugged coastal surroundings

Standout Details: The sweeping views of Quonochontaug Pond peppered with Optimist sailboats. Rides on the Quonnie Queen, the inn's electric Elco boat that can be arranged at the quaint water sports shack. Guided walks with the Inn's naturalist. Stargazing tours, fishing excursions, and swimming in the heated saline pool (a rarity in this part of the world) are all relaxing highlights.

This Place Is Perfect For: Outdoorsy couples and environmentalists of all ages who want to kayak, cycle, and swim in the Atlantic surf before savoring locally sourced, world-class cuisine. It's also perfect for families whose kids can sail, make jewelry, play shuffleboard, and devour s'mores around a fire pit come nightfall.

The living room of the Osprey Suite.

Rooms: The hotel has 31 guest rooms, including four two-bedroom Signature Suites with sweeping views of the Weekapaug Yacht Club's harbor and the Atlantic Ocean across to Block Island. Pond and cove view rooms are spacious and quietly elegant. with Matouk linens in neutral shades and a light, nautical design theme throughout. Extras include individually packaged snacks like malted milk balls and Goldfish crackers — in other words, the things you crave after a day in the sun and salt — as well heated floors and towel racks. SmartTouch iPads, and TVs are concessions 21st-century living, and one of the few things that has changed since the renovation.

On Site: The Inn is a wholly contained little world. The saline pool and fitness center are generally empty, as guests are busy exploring the outdoors. Small fitness classes and yoga at dawn are available, as are multiple dining venues (see below for more details).

The nature-inclined (isn't that everyone lately?) should get to know Mark Bullinger, the hotel's resident Naturalist and Director of Recreation, who grew up sailing, clamming, and fishing around here, as is clear from his extensive knowledge of the area, which will illuminate beach walks and expeditions on bike or boat, as well as bird-watching and stargazing sessions. Captain Mark (he has a U.S. Coast Guard captain's license) also oversees the boating center and waterfront activities: kayaking, paddleboarding, and sailing. If you're sticking to land and don't want to pack gear to go hiking around, the hotel has a closet full of Hunter outdoor gear for guest use.

The Restaurant.

The Brasserie.

The Pondhouse.

The Pondhouse.

Food + Drink: Like its sister hotel down the road, Ocean House, Weekapaug Inn is a Relais & Châteaux hotel, which means the culinary program is a big reason why you're here. The Restaurant, the hotel's premiere dining venue, serves a modern take on New England coastal cuisine, with an emphasis on local ingredients: Cast Iron Baked Eggs for breakfast; New England Clam Chowder, Fish Burger, and Hot Lobster Roll for lunch. The dinner menu is divided by source: From the Pantry, From the Mill, From the Sea, From the Pasture, and From the Coop. Sunday is Family Pasta Night at The Restaurant. The culinary highlights are many, but grilled local peaches with housemade burrata, a local black bass aqua pazza, and a lobster salad that's enhanced by a minted pea emulsion and preserved Meyer lemon are not to be missed.

The Brasserie, which opened in February 2019, serves French and European dishes in a casual setting: steak tartare, duck confit, ratatouille. The Garden Room is the most relaxed, lounge-like option for drinks and the kinds of bar snacks that could easily make a stick-to-the-ribs comfort meal — fries, a Northeast Family Farms burger, and an artisanal cheese plate that celebrates local purveyors.

Weekapaug has two seasonal options, one casual and one fancy. The beachy Bathhouse serves delicious pizzas and burgers. This is where guests can permanently park it by the water's edge.The Pondhouse is a seasonal, open-air private brunch and dinner experience for up to four guests overlooking Quonochontaug Pond. The three-course menu includes ingredients from the pond (Quonnie Rock oysters, Narragansett lobster), the pasture (local Berkshire pork), and the fields (wild mushrooms, local goat cheese). Each course comes paired with a Champagne from Louis Roederer, an independent, family-run Champagne houses founded in 1776. A portion of proceeds is donated to the Ocean House Fund for Charitable Giving.

What to Do Nearby

Guests who want to explore the area should take one of the hotel's complimentary Volvos and head 15 minutes down the coast to bucolic town of Watch Hill. (The non-highway route down Atlantic Avenue offers a more scenic drive, offering local color and a side of fried Stonington sea scallops.) Once there, all the amenities and activities at Ocean House — including the amazing Oh! Spa for massages and games of squash, a legit croquet lawn, multiple restaurants overlooking the dramatic Atlantic surf, and Euro-inspired beach cabanas — are on offer.

The town of Watch Hill is full of New England charm. From the old-world Flying Horse Carousel to the homemade black raspberry ice cream at St. Clair Annex on bustling Bay Street, a stroll here feels like summer as it should be. T-shirt shops and more elevated boutiques such as KLW Design and JHuhn Custom Men's Clothing offer housewares and a range of coastal-themed gifts and looks.

Heading north from Weekapaug Inn, Dave's Coffee draws the caffeine faithful, while the Matunuck Oyster Bar in South Kingstown has the best littlenecks and cherry stone clams, as well as oysters from nearby Potter Pond. This spot is so popular that you will wait — just plan to settle in with a Narragansett lager and do some fantastic people watching on their expansive deck. If you're in need of retail therapy, head to Galapagos Boutique for its funky mix of shoes, accessories, and carefully edited clothing. Though really, you should just get back to the beach and savor every moment at the Inn.

For more fun in Rhode Island, visit Ocean House, the grand dame hotel on the beach, then eat and drink your way down the Atlantic at the state's best eateries.

The Gilded Age Fantasy Is Alive and Thriving at Blantyre

Special Covid-19 travel considerations: The hotel is following all Covid-19 guidelines for safety and cleanliness, and is open to guests from Wednesday though Saturday night. Cafe Boulud at Blantyre is serving dinner from Wednesday through Sunday and brunch on weekends. Breakfasts are all in-room; lunches are boxed and served poolside or picnic-style on the grounds. Pianist Karèn Tchougourian is not performing this summer. As for area attractions, Tanglewood took its music program online this summer, and while the museums are reopening, it's a smart idea to call ahead before you venture out.

Blantyre
Lenox, Massachusetts
Opulent, $$$$ (from $645)

At the turn of the 20th century, when the well-heeled needed a place to rest their heads as they shuttled between seasons in New York, Palm Beach, and Newport, they settled on a wooded area of the Berkshires where the spring and fall temperatures were just right. (You know how the well-heeled are...)

Today, only a dozen of these Gilded Age "cottages" remain, including Blantyre, a country resort and estate just outside Lenox, Massachusetts, which is now under new ownership. You're welcome to come for a visit and pretend that time is standing gloriously still.

I spent a weekend here in June with my husband and friends, imagining this beautiful Tudor House, with its perfectly appointed decor — crystal carafes set for wine, elaborate chandeliers, and overstuffed sofas — was all mine. I totally indulged my fantasy of living in an Edith Wharton novel.

The Main Hall.

The Terrace.

Days began with long breakfasts on the Terrace overlooking the gardens and surrounding countryside; afternoons were whiled away reading, sunbathing, and swimming in the pool; dinner was a tasting menu in the Conservatory. I had a terrific facial at the Blantryre spa. We took a lazy trip into Lenox to stroll around town. On a tour of the estate, in-house historian David Pupo regaled me with stories of former owners (including filmmaker D.W. Griffith) and the antics the house has seen. With more time we would have gone to a concert under the stars at Tanglewood: It's another reason to come back.

After dinner came my favorite part of the day, sitting in the Music Room, listening to Karèn Tchougourian, the long-haired Vampire Lestat-looking pianist, playing across the room as I help myself to glass after glass of the port left out for guests to help themselves. (I'm told he is an empath who can intuit what you want to hear. I'm ready to call bullshit when he starts playing the Cole Porter tune I had just been thinking. I do my best not to start singing along, but I can't help myself. I blame the port.)

About that new owner: Linda Law is a San Francisco-based real estate developer who first saw Blantyre when she was a graduate student in Boston. One day, she thought to herself, I will own this place. If you see her around the house, stop for a chat. She's lively and lovely, and under her care, Blantyre's illustrious past will continue into a bright future.

Book It

Rates change seasonally and start at $645. Click here for reservations. Or get in touch with the Fathom Travel Concierge and we can plan your trip for you.

The Music Room.

A rear view of the Manor House.

Checking In

Location
Blantyre is located on a beautiful, wooded 110-acre estate in the part of the Berkshires Mountains that's all green rolling hills and genteel countryside. The cute town of Lenox is an easy ten-minute drive away.

Hotel Style
Gilded Age glory. This is the place to unleash your inner robber baron and pretend you've earned a spot on Mrs. Astor's list of 400.

This Place Is Perfect For
Couples, especially from the northeast, who want a romantic getaway for a few days.

But Not So Perfect For
Families. This is an adults-only operation. No children under 16 are allowed.

The Bistro.

The Conservatory.

The Wine Cellar.

What’s on Site
The ground floor of the main building, the Tudor-style Manor House, has the opulent lobby, outdoor Terrace, Music Room, Bistro, and Conservatory restaurant. The second floor has eight bedrooms; the basement is home to a massive wine cellar with more than 7,000 bottles, which is available for special events. (Once upon a time, the basement was also home to a speakeasy and a nightclub. If those brick-lined walls could talk...) Books — shelves and stacks of them — are everywhere, lining the upstairs hallways and neatly arranged in the Music Room. The pool and spa are located a leisurely walk or bike ride slightly downhill, past the Carriage House and Cottages. Also on the property are a tennis court, a croquet pitch, and Tesla charging station. Look for the statue of the bear in the woods on the drive up from the main entrance. It's really too cute.

Food + Drink
Food is very important to Blantyre's DNA: The hotel was the first Relais & Château property in North America. New for summer 2020 is Cafe Boulud at Blantyre, which will be serving a $78 prix-fixe dinner and two- or three-course prix fixe weekend brunch in the gorgeous Conservatory from Wednesday through Sunday until mid-October. Chef Daniel Boulud and his team have crafted a local, seasonal menu with a French accent: garlic roasted chicken with summer bean fricassee; a Frenchie Burger with confit pork belly, Morbier cheese, and tomato-onion jam; and heirloom tomato salad with basil-sunflower pesto. Breakfasts will be delivered in-room; lunch will be served poolside or picnic-style throughout the property. The bar attached to the Conservatory, deemed The Most Beautifully Designed Bar in Massachusetts by Architectural Digest, serves Gilded Age-inspired cocktails.

The Laurel Suite.

The Blue Room.

The Crimson Suite.

Cottage by the Path.

The Loft Suite in the Carriage House.

A Loft Suite in the Carriage House.

Number of Rooms
24 rooms in all. The eight in the Manor House are decorated in classic, Gilded Age style, in keeping with the decor on the ground floor: four-poster beds, period paintings, patterned textiles in the curtains and fluffy pillows. The rooms in the Carriage House are more contemporary. The stand-alone Cottages are primarily traditional in style and a great option for families.

Standout Detail
The ground floor of the Manor House, and especially the Music Room. And if you're curious, and you should be, see if you can get an estate tour from David Pupo, the director of membership and concierge services who does double duty as the in-house historian. He's been coming to the estate since he was a local kid swimming in the pool.

The pool and spa.

Outside Riverview cottage.

The entrance.

Checking Out

What to Do Nearby
The nearby town of Lenox is cute and preppy, as expected for this part of the world, with everything concentrated into a few walkable blocs: a great local bookstore, The Bookstore and Get Lit Wine Bar, a bar with an outdoor patio (The Olde Heritage Tavern), and a tapas restaurant (Brava). The clothes and housewares in most of the shops were nothing to get excited about, with two extremely stylish exceptions: Design Menagerie and MacKimmie Co.

The surrounding Berkshires are rich with cultural offerings. Tanglewood, the summer home of the Boston Symphony Orchestra, has an extensive and accessible program through August (translation: tickets are easy to get); the new Tanglewood Learning Institute offers year-round programming of lectures, films, and performances. Also nearby: MASS MoCA, The Clark, Jacob's Pillow, and the Norman Rockwell Museum. I've saved the best for last: The Mount, Edith Wharton's former house and gardens, which is a few miles down the road.

Plan Your Trip

How to Get There: Albany International Airport is one hour away; Boston's Logan Airport is just over two hours away.

Getting Around: You'll want a car to explore the area. The surroundings make for a really lovely drive.

Say Spa-aaaaah! The World’s Best Spa Treatments 2019

In this month’s edition of the Fathom Travel Awards, we’re celebrating all things wellness by shining a spotlight on the treatments and spa rituals that make us feel whole again.

While we'd never pass up a blissfully relaxing massages or a wow-you're-glowing facial (because we always have time for those!), these are services that up the ante on what a spa can do and be. From ancient Turkish traditions to futuristic brain journeys, these innovative offerings (and their striking environments) take spa-going to another level — and may even be the highlight of your trip.

Photo courtesy of Six Senses Spa.

The Swiss Facial That Will Make You Glow

The Alpina Gstaad, Six Senses Spa
Where: Gstaad, Switzerland
What’s to Love: The stunning alpine setting, natural materials and warm wood finishes, and all-natural, largely botanical products make the spa at Six Senses, a hotel company known for its wellness offerings, a Zen oasis in the middle of the Bernes Overland. The Swiss Anti-Aging Jewel Facial (60 minutes, $240) starts with a bamboo peel, followed by a most invigorating massage and the application of a nutrient-rich serum extracted from indigenous plants. This viscous Royal Jelly is applied as a mask, giving the skin hefty doses of vitamins and trace elements that will make you glow. The sound healing treatments using singing bowls, gongs, and crystal tuning forks are relaxing and restorative as well.

Photo courtesy of Royal Mansour.

The Hammam Fit for Royalty

Royal Mansour Marrakech Spa
Where: Marrakesh, Morocco
What’s to Love: Excellent hammam experiences at every price point are a local specialty in Marrakech, where liquid olive oil soup and a kessa massage glove are essential souk souvenirs. But the hammams at Royal Mansour are on another dimension of awesome — as is the entire spa, which is as gorgeous as you'd expect one built for the royal family to be. The Signature Hammam (75 minutes; 1600 MAD / $165) has options evocative of three Moroccan regions: The Atlas Mountains (lavender and holy basil), Taliounie (saffron), and Kalaat M'Gouna (roses). Temps Pour Soi (90 minutes; 2000 MAD / $207) includes a masterful scrub and washing in a jewel-like bathing temple (there's no other word for it), followed by an almond milk shampoo and a 20-minute massage. Oh, you only answer to "sultan" or "sultana" from now on? After this, that's understandable.

Photo courtesy of Nihi Sumba.

The Ultimate Spa Day in the Balinese Jungle

Nihi Sumba
Where: Sumba Island, Indonesia
What’s to Love: Nihioka Spa Safari is unlike anything you will ever experience. After a long walk through jungle, rice paddy fields, and a local village — during which you basically sweat your entire body weight out — you arrive to a magical oasis to find fresh coconuts to sip on and a semi-outdoor shower to rinse off in. Plush robes are waiting, as is breakfast in a cabana overlooking the ocean. Below are two perfect, private white-sand beaches with the bluest water you will ever see. After you eat (they'll whip up anything you'd like), you can go swimming in the ocean or lay by the pool. From there, the spa-ing begins. You can choose a half-day or a full day of unlimited treatments. Yes, unlimited. You can get massaged for hours or mix your own cocktail of body wraps, hair-conditioning, acupressure, facials, and more. It’s totally up to you. After you finish, they will bring you tea and snacks before taking you back to the hotel.

Photo courtesy of Oberoi Hotels & Resorts.

Health and Wellness at the Foothills of the Himalayas

The Oberoi Sukhvilas Spa Resort, New Chandigarh
Where: Chandigarh, India
What’s to Love: The Ayurvedic cleansing ritual Dinacharya (90 minutes, $120) is meant to be practiced daily. The therapist begins by cleansing your eyes with a medicated liniment, your ears with drops of oil, your mouth with an oil-based mouthwash, and your respiratory system with a medicinal smoke. From there, they liberally apply oil to the entire body in long strokes. While it's not meant to be the most relaxing treatment, it's remarkably invigorating. Your skin will feel like silk for days.

Photo courtesy of Babylonstoren.

A Modern Take on an Ancient Turkish Tradition

Babylonstoren
Where: Simondium, South Africa
What’s to Love: Partake in an ancient Turkish cleansing treatment at a garden oasis in the winelands outside Cape Town. Recommended for couples, the Hammam Traditional Soap Treatment (60 minutes, $150) takes place in a private, marble-laden steam room with a heated stone-slab treatment table and gorgeous blue-mosaic-tiled-ceiling. After a vigorous scrub with Turkish gloves, lukewarm water is repeatedly poured over the body, creating a Zen-like state, while the heat and steam relax tired and sore muscles. From there a soapy piece of cloth shaped like a long rectangular balloon is filled with air and used to rub down the entire body. You'll leave feeling squeaky clean with the skin of a newborn baby.

Photo courtesy of SHA Wellness Clinic.

Futuristic Brain Treatments for Mental Clarity

SHA Wellness Clinic
Where: Alacant, Spain
What’s to Love: A few months ago, the luxury resort and spa that looks like it was plucked from the pages of a futuristic William Gibson novel launched a duo of non-invasive brain treatments. Led by the charismatic Dr. Bruno Ribeiro, a neuroscientist and psychologist, the program caters to those looking to tap into optimal brain vitality, productivity, and to accelerate cellular recovery. Brain Photobiomodulation ($225 per session), developed with Harvard University-NASA technology, sends varying infrared light wavelengths to dormant parts of the brain to boost energy, performance, and improve concentration. Meanwhile, Transcranial Current Stimulation ($45 per session), which also has a Harvard pedigree, addresses everything from addiction to depression to migraines — and helps you catch your Zzzzs. Sessions run 45 minutes, an ideal time to talk to Dr. Ribeiro about — no pun intended — what’s on your mind before springing outdoors to soak in the salty Mediterranean air.

Photo courtesy of Hoshinoya Resorts.

Japanese Hospitality That Takes You to New Heights

Hoshinoya Tokyo
Where: Tokyo, Japan
What’s to Love: The indoor/outdoor ryokan-style baths on the top floor of the luxurious hotel are fed by hot springs piped from 1,500 meters below the city streets. Therapies begin with a soak (and, if you like, at night, a view of starry skies), a stretching session, and an oil treatment tailored to each guest’s needs. In typically hospitable Japanese fashion, glasses of ice cold milk, hot teas, and beautiful specialty snacks are provided at the end.
Read More on Fathom: A Stunning Japanese Ryokan in the Heart of Tokyo

Photo courtesy of Burgenstock Resort.

An Out-of-Body Experience Without Any Drugs

Burgenstock Hotels & Resort Alpine Spa
Where: Bürgenstock, Switzerland
What’s to Love: The Bürgenstock Alpine Body by Suzanne Kaufmann (90 minutes, $300) is an immersive combination of a revitalizing peel and a whole body massage designed to stimulate the metabolism and all of those neglected connective tissues. The invigorating head massage alone is worth the hefty price tag for this thoroughly relaxing, holistic – dare we say transcendent? – experience. The combination of Swiss botanical creams, skilled masseuses, and all of that fresh mountain air – complete with clanging cowbells in the distance – leaves you thoroughly limp, in the best possible way.

Photo courtesy of Ojai Valley Inn.

West Coast Energy Boost

Spa Ojai at Ojai Valley Inn
Where: Ojai, California
What’s to Love: Get a big does of hippy-dippy California at the Ojai Valley Inn where it's all about spiritual energy and wild-crafted Kypris skincare products. Named for the East West Ojai Valley, the East West Ritual for Balanced Beauty (100 minutes, $355) is designed to revive energy flow using polarity techniques. The rose quartz facial massage is next level. You'll leave this lengthy, sybaritic session feeling rested with absolutely glowing skin.

Photo courtesy of The Retreat at Blue Lagoon.

An Out-of-This World Massage at an Otherworldly Retreat

The Retreat at Blue Lagoon
Where: Grindavík, Iceland
What’s to Love: Book an in-water massage (from $142) at the spa at this ultra-luxe hotel, and you'll get a portion of Iceland’s famous Blue Lagoon all to yourself. The muscle-melting treatment takes place in a part of the lagoon only accessible to spa guests. You get the same pastel blue, silica-rich, good-for-your-skin geothermal seawater everyone comes to Iceland to experience, just without any of the tourists. After working out your knots, detoxing in the subterranean steam cave, and reflective on the spa’s panoramic terrace (with a rejuvenating skyr smoothie in-hand), you’ll never want to do this iconic Icelandic landmark differently ever again.

Photo courtesy of Amangiri.

Massage to Take Your Breath Away

Amangiri
Where: Canyon Point, Utah
What’s to Love: The desert-view spa is perched on 600 stunning acres of protected land on the Colorado Plateau. The location alone will take your breath away. So will the spa program, which takes cues from traditional healing systems the world over, particularly those of the Navajo. Among the plethora of incredible Zen-inducing offerings (candlelit yoga, floatation therapy, full- or half-day movement journeys), a massage from the knowing hands of masseur David Sanchez is the highlight. (Yes, he's that good.) Massages, which start with sage smudging ceremonies and end with crystal sound baths and use Aman’s all-natural skincare products, can be had individually (60 minutes, $225; 90 minutes, $325) or as a balancing, nourishing, or purifying signature treatment (105 minutes, $400), which kick off with a heavenly mineral-rich foot massage ritual.

Photo courtesy of Tomoko.

Massage to Make You Feel Whole Again

Tomoko
Where: Beverly Hills, California
What’s to Love: The super-minimal spa is considered one of LA’s best kept secrets, a soothing hideaway you might find in Japan. It's totally luxurious, without the glitz. The incredibly indulgent massages (from $200) are at once therapeutic and technical, as if the body workers have intuitive knowledge of where your pain is and how to fix it — with Swedish and Japanese techniques, hot stones, foot soaks, and sake.

A special thank you to Fathom contributors Victoria Cairo, Allison Reiber DiLiegro, Emily Dougherty, Alex Erdman, Darlene Fiske, Mary Holland, Brooke Lavery, Crystal Meers, Nicole Najafi, and Christina Ohly.

More Adventures in Wellness

Was It All Just a Dream? Tales from Heavenly Vair Spa in Puglia
The Hotel Is Great, But You Should See the Spa
Weightlessness, Libra Tables, Stress Assessments, Ionizers: 4 Next-Level Spa Treatments That Might Change Your Life

Three-Day Weekends from Washington, D.C.

Need some quiet weekend plans away from the action/adventure/machinations of Washington, D.C.? We have a few ideas.

WASHINGTON, D.C. –  Sometimes it can be hard to forget that there's a whole world out there beyond Capitol Hill. But it's true! Pastoral charm, double five-diamond meals, and views of the Blue Ridge Mountains are within reach of the weekend.

Here are a few places to start:

It doesn't get more charming than this. Photo courtesy of The Inn at Little Washington.

SPERRYVILLE, VIRGINIA

If you're in the mood for: scenic hikes and truly stellar meals.

Route to take: The 72-mile drive takes approximately two hours by car. Don't miss the scenic Skyline Drive that winds through the Shenandoah National Park and features waterfalls and starry skies.

Your agenda: Chef Patrick O'Connell at The Inn at Little Washington oversees one of the world's only double five-diamond establishments where chawanmushi (warm, local duck egg “tea cup” custard with ginger-scented Asian tea) and carpaccio of herb-crusted baby lamb loin are the orders of the day. Once in a blissful food coma, repair to one of the historic Relais & Chateaux's sumptuous suites and take in the garden views. 

Avoid the Sunday blues: Check out will be depressing, so stock up at the Inn's Tavern Shop where chef O'Connell has selected exquisite kitchen items, including Laguiole knives and artisanal cheeses.

Ah, the country life. Photo courtesy of Red Fox Inn. 

MIDDLEBURG, VIRGINIA

If you’re in the mood for: a romantic weekend with a backdrop of rolling green hills and grazing horses.

Route to take: Drive a little over an hour on Route 50 east of Washington, D.C.

Your agenda: The charming Red Fox Inn was established in 1728 and has been visited by historical greats like George Washington, John F. Kennedy, and Elizabeth Taylor. Try The Goodstone Inn & Estate Restaurant for farm-to-table French cuisine sourced from the onsite organic herb and vegetable gardens.

Avoid the Sunday blues: With a glass of RdV Vineyards' Lost Mountain cabernet sauvignon at the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. The intimate winery accepts tastings by appointment only, so book in advance. 

Swish! Viceroy Snowmass Delivers Family Fun, Especially on Skis

Fathom contributor Christina Ohly found everything she needed for a family-friendly luxury ski vacation under one roof outside Aspen in Snowmass, Colorado.

Viceroy Snowmass
Snowmass, Colorado
Modern, $$ (from $235)

Snowmass is a great family playground, especially during ski season. There is varied terrain for all ability levels, and the village is quaint. But it was lacking in the luxury hotel sector until Viceroy Snowmass came along and infused a little Scandinavian chalet chic into the area. With its slopeside location, state-of-the-art spa, and varied dining options, it is the place to position yourself if you're looking for a relaxing getaway — particularly with kids in tow — as the ski-in/ski-out location can't be beat. The Viceroy's lower level ski shop makes rentals, lift tickets, and ski instructor meet-ups (all pre-arranged through a concierge) a breeze, and helpful ski valets attend to children's boot buckles and hand warmer needs. The resort feels very high-touch, but in a low-key, LEED-friendly way. When the snow melts, you can head to the slopes for hiking, biking, and other summery outdoor activities.

The lobby at Viceroy Snowmass.

The pool and bar.

Claims to Fame

All 173 spacious rooms — from 375-square-foot studios to sprawling four-bedroom suites, many of which have recently been renovated — are furnished in dark woods, with pullout sofas, lovely throws, and gourmet kitchenettes. Anything larger than a one-bedroom comes with washer-dryers, which not only make light work of wet gear at day's end, but also cuts down on packing needs. (Clearly, a parent was involved designing these stylish yet functional spaces.) The subterranean spa, which can do wonders for unexpected altitude sickness, has treatments and rituals inspired by the Ute, local Native People. But the biggest claim to fame has to be the location. Just above the Assay Hill lift, you have access to 3,000+ acres of perfectly groomed trails and won't have to worry about missing the last lift back to your lodge after the last run, as is often the case with other properties.

What's on Site

The Viceroy is a self-contained unit. If it's a spa weekend you're after, you'll never have to leave. Skiers and nature warriors, however, will delight in a host of offerings that starts with a hearty breakfast buffet of breakfast burritos and blueberry-lemon quinoa pancakes at Toro Kitchen and Lounge, which becomes the hotel's fine dining restaurant by night. After fueling up, your warming ski boots are an elevator ride away. The valet at Four Mountain Sports will help with skis, poles, and replacing the inevitable lost mitten. Ski instructors will meet you right here, which lessens the chance of kid (or parent) meltdowns.

Après-ski offerings are a plus as well: welcoming hot chocolate and s'mores, a sleek outdoor pool, a fitness room for anyone with energy to spare, and an inviting bar all beckon. Friday nights throughout the ski season feature nighttime celebrations at nearby Elk Camp where tubing, snowshoeing, ice skating, and snow biking are all on offer and are easily accessible by nearby gondola. Summer brings outdoor events like bike rides, rodeos, and outdoor concerts.

The bar at Nest Public House.

Toro Kitchen and Lounge.

The Food

Breakfast, the most important meal of any ski day, is delicious, varied, and filling, as are dinners of Colorado rack of lamb at chef Richard Sandoval's Toro. But it was a lunch of grilled shrimp tacos at Nest Public House that won my heart. A new bar extension of Nest means you can eat near the pool and the lift. An easy ski run takes you to Base Camp Bar & Grill, the restaurant next to the hotel's ski shop, where light chopped salads and creative sandwiches are served quickly for the skier who wants to get back on the mountain.

Aspen, seven miles down the road, is a true foodie town. So it's worth leaving Snowmass to explore such culinary gems as Casa Tua, Matsuhisa, and Meat & Cheese, the area's latest and greatest restaurant-cum-charcuterie market.

Rooms with a View

Virtually every Viceroy room has a sweeping view of Roaring Fork Valley and trails, but I highly recommend east-facing rooms overlooking the Assay lift for a family of four. The one-bedroom, sizable suites feature pullout sofas that work for younger kids. Streamlined gas fireplaces throw off serious heat, which lends the separate spaces a cozy feel. For a total house party, four-bedroom apartments include communal living spaces and great views of the surrounding peaks at twilight. Avoid north-facing rooms that look out over the access road to the main village. Not nearly as pretty.

A kid's room at Viceroy Snowmass.

A spacious hotel room kitchen at Viceroy Snowmass.

This Place Is Perfect For

Anyone who likes design-led spaces and close proximity to ski lifts. Viceroy is perfect for families, as rooms are configured for sharing and are often interconnected. The hotel's Very Important Kids program will appeal to the younger set, with movies, games, bowling, and more.

But Not So Perfect For

A quiet couples weekend. Viceroy is kid central, and while they do it in a quiet, casual way, school vacation times are packed with small people.

Book It

Rates vary seasonally and start at $235 per night. Click here for reservations. Or contact the Fathom Concierge and we'll book your trip for you.

Guest room details.

CHECKING OUT

Neighborhood Vibe

Snowmass Base Village just underwent a major renovation. A new ice rink and a five-story indoor climbing wall located in the recently opened Limelight Hotel Snowmass offer more reason than ever to stick around Snowmass, but if you're looking for a change of scene, you're certainly at no loss for options. Aspen Snowmass consists of four mountains, all accessible on one lift ticket: In addition to Snowmass, there's Aspen Mountain in Aspen town, lower-key Aspen Highlands, and xtreme-sports-friendly Buttermilk.

Your dedicated Aspen ski and snowboard instructor will accompany you to any of the mountains, making for a seamless ski experience on many varied terrains.

What to Do Nearby

For a small mountain town, Aspen is packed with cultural offerings — galleries, lectures, museums, events. One of the newest is the Shigeru Ban-designed Aspen Art Museum with its rotating contemporary art exhibits and stunning rooftop café.

Food is another central focus, from the world-class sushi at Matsuhisa and Kenichi, to fine dining at Cache Cache and Casa Tua. For a lighter meal in a casual, buzzy atmosphere, head to Meat & Cheese on East Hopkins Avenue, where abundant cheese boards are accompanied by pickles, preserves, and crackers and porchetta assortments are ideal for sharing. The wood-fired pizzas at Mezzaluna make it a perennial kid favorite, and its location near Aspen Mountain ensure added après-ski entertainment. Top off any hard day outdoors with a finely crafted cocktail at Aspen's newest speakeasy, Bad Harriet, at Hotel Jerome.

Nordic skiers will love the Aspen Cross Country Center for its 25+ miles of trails. Lessons and gear are available through Ute Mountaineer.

Ashcroft Ski Touring is another great bet and offers cross country skiing through an old ghost town, just twelve miles from Aspen.

Keep Exploring Aspen/Snowmass

Fathom's Aspen Guide
What's New in Aspen 2019
Re-Losing My Virginity On The Slopes
Snowmass Is Ski Heaven for the Whole Family

The World's Most Romantic Hotels 2019: You Love Your Third Wheel

In this year's edition of the World's Most Romantic Hotels, we're celebrating the third wheel. Too often maligned as the wedge that can drive you and your beloved apart, we'd rather think of the third wheel as the force that draws you together, the shared passion that cements your bond. Remember, you've a big heart and a whole lotta love to give.

If You Love Each Other and You Also Love...

...ADRENALINE

Tordrillo Mountain Lodge
Judd Lake, Alaska

What's to Love: A multimillion-dollar revamp by thrill-seeking owners (Olympic gold medalist Tommy Moe and Alaskan heli-ski pioneer Mike Overcast) takes the heart rate to new heights at this five-star, multi-sport wilderness lodge. A 40-minute floatplane flight from Anchorage lands guests in the remote Tordrillo Mountains, where stylish digs, fancy chefs, a lakeside sauna, and in-room massages round out helicopter-based adventure experiences all year long. An accomplished guide team leads guests in skiing and snowboarding through steep gullies and powder fields. Summer calls for glacier hiking, wake surfing, waterskiing, wildlife viewing, and catching the Northern Lights at night.

Photos by Tanveer Badal.

...THE BEACH

Hotel Esencia
Riviera Maya, Mexico

What's to Love: You land in Cancun and drive an hour south. You turn left into the edge of the jungle and are escorted via golf cart through a thicket of vines — cue the peacocks calling out their welcome — emerging onto the quietly grand former estate of an Italian duchess, who you're told built this place to be near her lover. You pass turtles swimming a small cenote, pause for afternoon tea in the sitting room, and check into your room — a sea of white punctuated by a colorful pillow, a dramatic palm frond. Two pools await, as does a secluded beach along a gentle bay. Go-go Tulum is close by, as are excellent archaeological and ecological sites, but if all you want to think about is morning yoga, another bottle of Casa Madero rosé, the guacamole and tacos at Mistura restaurant, and getting back to the day bed along the shore, you're making the right decision.

Photos courtesy of Southern Ocean Lodge.

...GOING TO EXTREMES

Southern Ocean Lodge
Kangaroo Island, Australia

What's to Love: There's no such thing as half measures when you're about as far south as you can go before hitting Antarctica. The hotel design is dramatic and impressive: Suites sweep out from the open-plan common area in a descending crescent shape, framed by a private beach on one end and a cliffside walk on the other. There's nothing but nature wherever you look, whether out to sea from your unobstructed balcony or at the surrounding greenery on your leisurely walks. (Keep your eyes peeled for wallabes in the brush.) The food is local and amazing, and you'll want to smuggle the sheep's cheese in your mini-bar back home. When you manage to tear yourself away to explore the natural wonders throughout the island, SOL's knowledgeable guides (like Phil, the @Southern.Ranger) will tell you everything you need to know about the sea lions, kangaroos, koalas, and raptors who outnumber people down here.

Photos courtesy of Villa Tre Ville.

...CINEMA

Villa Tre Ville
Positano, Italy

What's to Love: If you've ever fantasized about dating — or being — Marcello Mastroianni, you can take dolce vita dreams to the next level by checking into the Amalfi Coast cliffside estate that was the home of legendary Italian director Franco Zeffirelli (yes, the one who did Romeo and Juliet, speaking of romance...). He spent decades restoring and designing the cliffside property so every striking detail is infused with drama, resulting in spaces that look like Italian and Moroccan stage sets and rooms named for pals like Maria Callas and characters like Tosca. Aperol spritzes appear out of nowhere, the swimming is fabulous, and the hotel's skiff will whisk you off to Da Adolfo for lunch or to Positano for a pizza at the drop of a hat.

Photos courtesy of Babylonstoren.

...THE SIMPLE LIFE

Babylonstoren
Simondium, South Africa

What’s to Love: If you’ve ever longed to turn back time to an era where people lived on farm estates and grew their own food, this is the spot for you. The charming 500-acre Cape Dutch farm is straight out of a magazine spread, with bountiful fruit orchards and vegetable patches, friendly farmhands in matching uniforms, and simple but elegant white-washed guest cottages. Upon arrival, a general feeling of peacefulness and well-being will descend. This is how life should be, you’ll think to yourself, and for a few days that is. You’ll be immersed in the world of a working – albeit highly stylized – farm, where mornings start with an epic breakfast spread of fresh produce, homemade breads, cheeses, and yogurts, and eggs from the resident free-roaming hens. A state-of-the-art winery, serene spa, two swimming pools, hiking trails, mountain bikes, and farm shop offer plenty to see and do, but it’s dinner at Babel, the estate’s award-winning restaurant, that will be most memorable.

Read More About It: Babylonstoren Is a Technicolor Salad

Photos courtesy of The Lowell.

...MANHATTAN

The Lowell
New York, New York

What's to Love: Evoking everything that's wonderful about old-school, discreet uptown, the intimate boutique hotel feels so timeless that it would be so easy to ignore Central Park and Museum Mile (mere steps away) and lose yourself inside. Start with cocktails at Jacques Bar, followed by a Mediterranean-infused French meal at Majorelle. Settle for a nightcap in the deep sofas in the Club Room, then wander upstairs, where the fireplace is roaring at the foot of your bed. Wake up, have room service on the terrace, and do the whole thing all over again.

Photos courtesy of Six Senses Yao Noi.

...GOING WILD

Six Senses Yao Noi
Phang Nga Bay, Thailand

What's to Love: If you want to stay in the jungle and live like Swiss Family Robinson meets Richard Branson, stay here. This place manages to combine the luxury of good bedding, good food and beverage, an all-day ice cream parlor, and a superlative spa with the mystery and authenticity of a Thai jungle. The materials are all natural (there is a huge focus on sustainability and local craftsmanship) and there's not a single piece of plastic in sight. Hop on a tuk tuk for a ride around the teeny island to see rubber plantations, rice paddies, a modest market, and the jade green sea, or take a boat out for a day to enjoy limestone cliffs and a warm dip. A bottle (or two) of the Six Senses local (yes, Thai wine!) rosé makes lunch that much more special.

Photos courtesy of Taylor River Lodge.

...YOUR KIDS

Taylor River Lodge
Crested Butte, Colorado

What's to Love: Open from late May through mid-October, the off-grid locale deep in Taylor Canyon is a woodsy wonderland perfect for families. There are private cabins with various set-ups — lofts, bunk beds, kitchens, and a teepee lounge. The all-inclusive rate includes not only food and drink (and an awesome mini bar), but activities like river rafting, axe-throwing, fly fishing, mountaineering, shooting BB guns (you'll shoot yer eye out, kid), and access to the beautiful pool cabin.

Photos courtesy of Singita.

... YOUR INNER BEAST

Singita Boulders Lodge
Sabi Sand Game Reserve, South Africa

What’s to Love: If it’s an adventure you’re after, look no further than this secluded twelve-suite lodge on a private concession adjacent to South Africa’s Kruger National Park. Set along the wildlife-rich banks of the Sand River, the impressive safari lodge offers some of the best service we’ve ever experienced in one of nature’s most primitive environments. Days revolve around early-morning and late-afternoon game drives with a personal safari guide and tracker. Your goal: spotting Africa’s Big Five (lions, elephants, buffalo, leopards, and rhinoceros), along with other native species like hippos, zebra, giraffes, impala, and the elusive wild dog. Both exhilarating and utterly relaxing, each excursion feels like its own journey with a surprise ending. Come afternoon, you’ll retire to your private suite, a tranquil standalone villa that looks like it was carved out of the earth: Stone walls and large glass windows make it difficult to tell where your room ends and nature begins. A private plunge pool and outdoor shower will tempt you to hole up in your suite, but the rest of the lodge, with its swimming pool, spa, fitness center, and boutique, is worth exploring. We’d be remiss to not mention the delicious food, which is overseen by award-winning chef Liam Tomlin, and the lodge’s extensive wine cellar.

Photos courtesy of Beaumanière.

...MICHELIN FEASTS

Baumanière
Lex Baux de Provence, France

What's to Love: A boutique hotel in the heart of picturesque Provence with luxurious surroundings — gardens, pools, and five distinct buildings with chic simple rooms — and one of the most wonderful restaurants anywhere. Sit outside in summer and savor fresh vegetables from their garden or sip Petrus in the 50,000-bottle wine cellar. Whatever the case, you need never leave this picturesque property. A weekend here feels completely restorative.

Read More on Fathom: Double the Fun Meets Double the Favor in Provence

Photos courtesy of Ill sereno.

Il Sereno
Lake Como, Italy

What's to Love: Set on the shores of Lake Como, this Patricia Urquoila-designed property is all stone and glass — elements that won't compete with the surrounding natural beauty. Rooms feature floor-to-ceiling windows and minimalist furnishings to maximize the views. The infinity pool is a thing of beauty, as is the hotel's fleet of classic boats that were handcrafted by local artisans and boat-making legend Daniele Riva and feature the old-school aesthetics of classic lake boats updated with Urquoila's chic fabrics and finishes.

Photos courtesy of Off the Map Travel.

...OUTER SPACE

Aurora in Bed
Tromso, Norway

What's to Love Is this a dream you're living? You're sleeping outdoors on a rooftop, cuddled under duvets, watching the Northern Lights stream and dance overhead. You've checking into the recently renovated Villa Telegrafbukta, which can sleep up to six, should you feel like sharing. If you haven't pulled all-nighters under the galaxy, you can spend days exploring fjords and islands. This is available only through travel Off the Map Travel from September through March, though December through March is the best time to see the Northern Lights.

Photos courtesy The Alpina Gstaad.

...A GREAT SPA

The Alpina Gstaad
Gstaad, Switzerland

What's to Love: Set in the Swiss Saanenland, the uber-chic boutique hotel has a traditional chalet vibe and is the height of farmhouse luxury. The sumptuous spa is all natural wood and stone — no gilt here! — and does everything from color therapy and salt treatments to Green Caviar Facials and killer couples massages in a cave room. This spa is so comprehensive — and so Zen — you'll feel reborn.

Contributors: Berit Baugher, Jeralyn Gerba, Stephanie March, Christina Ohly, Pavia Rosati.

Love Is in the Air

See Them All: The Most Romantic Hotels (by destination)
The World's Most Romantic Hotels 2018
The World's Most Romantic Hotels 2017
The World's Most Romantic Hotels 2016

Meet Fathom Contributor Christina Ohly

Hometown: Currently NYC, but I consider London home as well. I was born in Washington, DC, but raised in Woodstock, Vermont.

Occupation: Writer and consultant.

Favorite destinations: Too many to mention. Italy: both city (Rome, Florence) and country (Umbria, Tuscany, Ischia, Amalfi anywhere); France: Paris, near St. Remy; Spain; Harbour Island, Bahamas; most of New England but particularly coastal Rhode Island; California, both south (I love LA) and north (SF, Santa Barbara, Napa).

Dying to visit: India, Mozambique, Argentina, Fogo Island, the Scottish Highlands, and Shanghai. Again, the list is endless.

Bizarre travel rituals: I pack so much food because you never know and I can't stand gross, processed foods. In my cold sack, you'll find fruit, vegetables, Wasa crackers, and cheese sticks. I've clearly been stuck on one tarmac too many. I also start packing (clothes, not food) many days in advance, then edit the bag at least three times leading up to the trip.

In-flight relaxation regime: Watching an entire season of something mindless (cooking shows, anything BBC, any of the Real Housewives) on my iPad on long-haul flights. I read stacks of magazines and newspapers — fashion and travel top the list, but I love it all, from international editions of Vogue to The FT to cheesy celeb weeklies and back issues of The New Yorker.

Always in carry-on: BlackBerry; disinfecting hand wipes; snacks (Zone bars, crackers, gum); Le Métier de Beauté lip gloss; hair ties; and a wallet with pictures of my kids, cash, and my lucky charm — a horseshoe pin given to me by my grandmother.

Concierge or DIY? DIY for most things, especially flights because I tend to change them and like dealing with airlines directly. I am happy to outsource restaurants to a hotel person, though OpenTable has changed the playing field.

See it all or take it easy? See it all. I am not so great at relaxing and I hate to miss a meal, a shop, an experience.

Drive or be driven? Both. I love taxis and taxi drivers, as they provide so much local color, history, and great food knowledge — though, of course, this is destination-specific.

Travel hero: My husband. He can get stuck in China, do weird back-to-back redeyes via L.A. and Dallas, and still remain cheerful. He doesn't get flustered, doesn't freak out about the weather, and is always kind. He just goes with the global travel flow.

Weirdest thing seen on travels: I've seen some seriously bad behavior on the NYC to Florida flight routes. It is amazing to see the screaming, yelling, and bad manners that people will throw at an unsuspecting flight attendant. But the weirdest/saddest was seeing a drug mule pulled off a plane. It was later explained to us that law enforcement can spot mules because they are so uncomfortable in Western clothing and are often wearing new shoes. The poor guy looked beyond terrified; it was all quite a circus.

Best hotel amenity: Packed lunches for the plane at Curtain Bluff, Antigua; wellies and mud gear at The Mayflower Inn and Spa, Washington, Connecticut; the freshest fruit plates at The Hotel Caruso, Ravello, Italy.

I dream about my meals at Zuma in London (I love their black miso cod and robata grill dishes) and The Polo Lounge in LA (chopped salads are divine). I even love a simple plate of lentils at NYC's Fairway Cafe or the best poppy seed bagels in the world at 72nd Street Bagels on the Upper West Side. It's a dive but totally delicious!

Everywhere I go I check out the food markets — from supermarkets to farmer's markets to bakeries, butchers, cheesemongers.

When I arrive in a new place, I learn the lay of the land by walking, eating in restaurants full of local color, and talking to taxi drivers.

I always bring home some article of clothing reminiscent of a country, a piece of jewelry, and a Christmas tree ornament or two for my family's tree. I always forget the fruit in my bag, which doesn't go over too well at customs these days.

If I never return to Russia, it'll be too soon because I almost starved to death there. I am a big consumer of fruit and vegetables and these were fairly tough to come by.

I travel for the local color. I love hearing people's stories, seeing their daily routines, and learning about their cultures.

Things Fathom Editors Want Right Now - Vol. 16

Tea.O.Graphy Tea

Assam from the northern hills of India, pink rosebuds and chamomile from a Provençal garden, a spicy tea blend inspired by Christmas in New Mexico — these are the cuppas that can transport you to another place any time you step into your kitchen. ($3 for a 3-cup sample; $11 and up for a 2 ounce package) - Jeralyn, editorial director 

Photo courtesy of Phaidon.

The Japanese Garden

Winter in New York City has me longing for greener days, which is why I have my eye on this gorgeous coffee table book. Through a series of essays and photographs, readers explore the art of the Japanese garden. ($43) – Berit, senior editor

Photo courtesy of Slughaus.

Slughaus Self-Healing Wolverine Pack

I have my eyes on this lightweight daypack for when the weather warms up and hiking through the woods without seven layers of clothing becomes an option. It’s packable down to the size of a smartphone, is weather resistant, and — get ready for this — made of regenerative fabric! Heat and friction from your fingertips is all that’s needed to heal small punctures made by branches, bramble, and any other sharp objects one might find on a nature walk. ($89) – Daniel, editor

Photo courtesy of Flight 001.

Flight 001 5-In-1 Adapter

The colorful multi-country travel adapter has been my go-to for staying powered on the road. Before I head to Singapore and Vietnam at the end of the month, I’m going to upgrade to the latest version, which features two built-in USB ports. – Berit, senior editor

Bringing It Home and Dinner in an Instant

It's February and I'm freezing, so I'm staying in, nesting and trying recipes from the latest cookbooks from my friends, both Fathom contributors. Top Chef judge Gail Simmons' Bringing It Home: Favorite Recipes from a Life of Adventurous Eating has me craving Vietnamese Omelets and Charred Grapefruit Mezcalita ($16.98). New York Times food columnist Melissa Clark, who writes a new book in the time it takes me to read 300 emails, inspired me to buy a pricey new gadget with Dinner in an Instant: 75 Modern Recipes for your Pressure Cooker, Multicooker + Instant Pot so I can make Green Persian Rice with Tahdig and Japanese Beef Curry ($13.96). Both authors — hooray! — were just nominated by International Association of Culinary Professionals as finalists for the best cookbook of the 2018. — Pavia, CEO

Flight Spray

Call me crazy, but I swear that the key to health is having moisturized airways. This holds particularly true for airplanes where the humidity levels are significantly lower than the Sahara Desert (fact). In an effort to stave off colds and this year's dreaded flu, I went online and read that this was THE nasal mist to keep flyers breathing right. It has a sort of herbal essence, and since I started using it I'm much more comfortable, especially on long haul flights. — Christina Ohly, Contributing Editor

Discover More Things We're Loving

Things Fathom Editors Want Right Now - Vol. 15
Things Fathom Editors Want Right Now - Vol. 14
Things Fathom Editors Want Right Now - Vol. 13

Now Do This: Best Travel Deals, Steals & News 2017

This is the 2017 edition of Now Do This, our monthly compendium of timely travel deals and special offers. The current edition is here.

Updated 12/20/17:

If you forgot to make year-end holiday plans, we found a few options still left. Where is Team Fathom spending their holidays? It's a mix. Half of us are in Australia, Singapore, San Miguel de Allende, and Peru; half of us are staying home and catching up on piles of novels, which is itself its own vacation. Whatever you do, have a great one.

TRIPS TO BOOK

Spain: Nestled among Spain's Rhonda mountains is the extremely dreamy La Donaira, an eco-certified horse farm with impeccable design details. The serene nine-room resort has five deluxe accommodations available over Christmas. Rates are 400€ per person per night and include all breakfasts, special holiday lunches and dinners, drinks and snacks in between meals, bicycles (cycling is big here) and the spa (indoor swimming pool, sauna, Turkish bath).

London and Paris: Paris Perfect, the apartment rental company we've covered before, and their UK counterpart London Perfect have deals for up to 25% off for Christmas and New Year's stays. Check Google Flights for the cheapest airfare, and you're off.

Rome: Get the new year off to an Eternal City start at Baglioni Hotel Regina. The NYE gala party will include live jazz, a big Italian dinner with big Italian drinks, a magic show, and a DJ after midnight. The three-night stay in a deluxe room starts at 2,850€. Email reservations.reginaroma@baglionihotels.com to book.

Worldwide with Kimpton: Beginning at 12 a.m. EST on New Year's Day, would-be guests at Viceroy hotels will have 72 hours to book discounts from 30% or more on properties in LA, SF, NY (45% on Viceroy Central Park), Chicago, Riviera Maya, and Abu Dhabi. Ski bums and snowbirds can take 20% off hotels in Snowmass and Saint Lucia.

Hampsire, England: Fancy a wintry jaunt to the English countryside? The Pig at Brockenhurst is offering a winter treat: you, plus one, on a midweek stay with breakfast and a souvenir bottle of house vino, for just £139. Valid January-February 2018, excluding hols, as Brits like to call them.

Saanenland, Switzerland: For those who want to enjoy the snow without actually playing in it, glam ski hideaway Gstaad Palace has a new offering called Between Heaven and Earth — lunch by helicopter over the Matterhorn, one of the highest mountains in the Alps.

WHERE WE’VE BEEN

I'm just back from the Bahamas, where I stayed at the new Baha Mar, a mega resort with a Grand Hyatt, a very chic SLS, and a soon-to-open Rosewood Hotel. On-site were countless pools, a tasty conch shack, and a big casino where I met killer lady dealers. But I was most impressed by a tour of studios and gallery of The Current, the hotel's curated program dedicated to Bahamian art and culture, led by local artist Steffon Grant. Quiet Harbour Island was more my speed, and I had a hard time leaving Bahama House, the new eleven-room compound from Eleven Experiences. I'll be back: I didn't drink enough mango daiquiris at Sip Sip, the legendary lunch restaurant. — Pavia, CEO

Earlier this month, I spent the most visually satisfying day in southern Connecticut, where I walked the rolling hills of Grace Farms, enjoyed a long lunch at the festively decorated Terrain, and toured The Inn at GrayBarns on the Silvermine River, followed by drinks at the cozy new restaurant. – Berit, editor

I spent early December in the French Alps (they're already covered in snow) for the grand opening of oh-so-stylish Club Med Grand Massif Samoëns Morillon. I hadn't done the all-inclusive thing since I was a kid, but it made my trip so, so easy, which was especially gratifying during this crazy time of year. I'm still pretty sore, but not sure if it's from all-day skiing or all-night dancing. – Kim, contributing writer

HOTEL INTEL

Last week we rounded up our top hotel openings of late 2017, including a new luxury tented safari camp in Sri Lanka, a stylish boutique hotel in Copenhagen, and a neo-gothic castle in the Irish countryside. It’s time to start planning your 2018 vacations.

Tennessee's most luxurious hotel, Blackberry Farm, has broken ground on a new property called Blackberry Mountain. Set among 5,200 acres of wild land, the hotel will fuse the fine dining they're already famous for and modern comforts with a rustic and adventurous mountain setting. The hotel is scheduled to open in February 2019, and we can't wait.

The making of a Hudson-inspired camera bag. Photo courtesy of Zio & Sons.

Updated 11/15/17:

TRIPS TO BOOK

Zambia: Spend your holidays in one of Africa’s last unspoiled wilderness regions. The Bushcamp Company is offering 30% off six-night stays at the award-winning Mfuwe Lodge as well as the recently renovated Kapamba and Zungulila Bushcamps. Priced at $2,100 per person and valid from December 1, 2017 - January 15, 2018. Mention “festive offer” at checkout.

Brooklyn, New York: Cook Space is a gorgeous and approachable culinary school offering an array of classes that range from dim sum and Vietnamese street food to Ayurvedic cooking. Receive a 15% discount when you signup for a class on Black Friday or Cyber Monday by using the codes BLACKFRIDAY2017 and CYBERMONDAY2017, respectively.

British Virgin Islands: Looking for a warm way to recover from Thanksgiving with the family? Head to the Caribbean for the Anegada Lobster Festival on November 25 and November 26th. (Yes, the Caribbean is open! And they want us to all go back!)

North Fork, New York: Looking for romance? Cozy up with your nearest and dearest at the classic-meets-modern Sound View, a renovated motel in Greenport. The secluded seaside resort is offering a winter package that includes a romantic meal for two at The Halyard, plus four bottles of local wine. Rates start at $340, with a two-night minimum.

Charleston, South Carolina: Bookmark this Cyber Monday sale: Well-heeled travelers can save 25% off their stay at The Spectator Hotel between December 1, 2017 - August 31, 2018. Offer available from November 27 - December 1, 2017.

Borneo: The Great Projects (who we've covered before on Fathom) are offering their oragnutan voluntourism trip in Borneo at 15% off if booked by November 30. Check out the earnest promo video they made about volunteering to see lots of cute monkey business.

New York, New York: Reasons to visit The Whitby hotel this holiday season: a Thanksgiving-themed package, holiday wreath-making class with master florist Lewis Miller, Sunday movie club with seasonal classics like It’s a Wonderful Life and Home Alone 2, and a special New Year’s Eve evening.

Singapore: This fall marked the opening of the first Andaz hotel in Southeast Asia. Conveniently located just 20 minutes from Changi airport, Andaz Singapore is having a 20% off sale on standard rate room bookings through January 31, 2018.

WHERE WE’VE BEEN

I just returned from the Caribbean Wine and Food Festival in Turks and Caicos, where the spirit of endurance and recovery was both touching and strong. I stayed at Grace Bay Club — one of my favorites — and toured The Residences, their gorgeous new five-bedroom villas, which come with a pool, a private chef, and a secluded white-sand beach. (I so want to come back with a gang...) The final dinner of the festival was held at The Shore Club, the swank new sister property of The Palms, which has one of the prettiest spas I've ever seen. - Pavia, CEO

On a recent fall photo walk around Hudson, New York, I crossed these places off my upstate wish list: restaurant and boardroom Wm Farmers & Sons, home decor boutique Hawkins, and This Old Hudson, a studio space and weekend lodging option from the creative agency Zio & Sons, who just released a very stylish Hudson-inspired camera bag in collaboration with ONA. – Daniel, editor

HOTEL INTEL

Drum roll please: Aman Resorts has announced their next city destination will be New York City. Scheduled to open in 2020, the Jean-Michel Gathy-designed 83-room hotel will occupy the iconic Crown Building overlooking Central Park.

COMO Hotels and Resorts is opening a new oceanside retreat. COMO Echo Beach is slated to open in February in Canggu, a quaint coastal village with a six-mile beach that boasts some of Bali’s best surf breaks.

Later this winter, Collective Retreats, the pop-up travel company with outposts in Vail, Yellowstone, and Hudson Valley, will open Collective Hill Country, a Retreat at Montesino Ranch. Located on 225 acres of ranch and organic farmland, the Wimberly, Texas glamping site will have 12 tents outfitted in plush beds with 1,550-thread-count Egyptian cotton linens and “farm-to-flame” dining.

Updated 10/18/17:

TRIPS TO BOOK

• Tel Aviv: Hotel Montefiore is hosting Michelin-star chef Bo Bech of Geist Restaurant in Copenhagen as part of this year’s Amex Round Tables event in Tel Aviv, November 12-17.

• Hollywood, Florida: The Diplomat Beach Resort, the iconic Florida hotel fifteen minutes south of Fort Lauderdale airport, has just completed a stylish and fun $100 million renovation. Consider it a family-friendly, laid-back alternative to South Beach.

• India: Holiday in style with a spectacular Abercrombie & Kent nine-day tour of India that includes two visits to the Taj Mahal (sunrise and sunset) and a sail on the shimmering Lake Pichola. Prices from $8,995 per person.

• Papua New Guinea: Try your hand at island survival with Oceana Expeditions Kabakon Survivor experience. Guests are dropped off on a secluded island and left to fend for themselves (with a little help, of course).

• Puglia, Italy: Dreaming about opening your own boutique hotel? Here’s your chance. Pre-book your stay at Amberlair, a historic villa surrounded by olive trees and vineyards that is crowdsourcing funding to meet their 2020 opening date.

• Europe: Cross the continent the scenic way. Eurail is having a 20 percent off sale for train passes purchased through December, including Global Pass (good in 28 countries), Select Pass (2-4 bordering countries), and One Country Pass (choose from 22).

• Catskill Mountains, New York: Reasons to visit Scribner's Lodge this fall: Yoga for Bad People and fly fishing with Esopus Creel (10/27-29), bushwhacking (11/4), and a stay-three-nights-for-the-price-of-two weekday special.

• Big Sur, California: Highway One is open! After a massive landslide wiped out a section of the road, the iconic route on the Cali coast is welcoming cars once again. Quick, make a reservation for Post Ranch Inn.

WHERE WE’VE BEEN

• Great rainy day hang: Sir Adam, a new Design Hotels property in Amsterdam Noord. It has hearty burgers, games, 'zines, huge floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the river, and a rock-and-roll vibe. Jump on the ferry for literally one minute and you're at Central Station. – Jeralyn, editorial director

• I’m still thinking about my long weekend at São Lourenço do Barrocal, a stylish family-run farm estate in Portugal’s Alentejo region. I spent my days reading by the pool, dining on farm-fresh cuisine, and indulging in treatments at the Susanne Kaufmann Spa. – Berit, senior editor

• In Marrakech for the Pure travel show, I stayed at three great hotels. Opulent Hotel Selman outside the city has a pool that goes on forever and a dazzling equestrian program. In the medina, Villa des Orangers delivers understated luxury at its finest (and has a cute resident turtle!), while La Sultana is a labyrinth of sumptuous connecting riads. I ate so well at all of them. – Pavia, CEO

• While in Marrakech, Jeralyn and I attended a preview of the stunning new Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech, adjacent to Jardin Majorelle. Along with Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris, it's one of two new institutions dedicated to the designer who so loved Morocco. – Pavia, CEO

• One of the most memorable experiences from a recent day in Madrid was walking through El Matadero, a former municipal slaughterhouse-turned-vibrant multidisciplinary art center. A design center, theater, cinema, cafe, multiple gallery spaces, and plenty of beautiful public space are set on what used to be a gruesome and miserable plot of land. The juxtaposition is sort of like art in itself. – Daniel, editor

HOTEL INTEL

• Considering Ghent, Belgium, for our next Euro escape, so we can book a stay at 1898 The Post, a stunning neo-gothic post office-turned-boutique hotel.

• Relais Christine, a Fathom Favorite in Paris, has just finished a chic renovation by designer Laura Gonzalez. A Guerlain spa will open this month.

• This month marks the opening of Dave, a new affordable boutique hotel with a fun-loving attitude in the heart of Tel Aviv.

• Classic Americana is a nice weekend aesthetic. Try it on in spring 2018, when the Blackburn Inn opens in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia.

Festival of Lights in Thailand. Photo courtesy of Remote Lands.

Updated 8/16/17:

TRIPS TO BOOK

• Paris and London: Need an excuse for a last-minute city break? Perfect Experiences, the luxury apartment rental and concierge service, is offering up to 30 percent on stays of up to five nights or more through September 25, 2017.

• Big Sur, California: Take to the skies with a chopper ride over one of the USA's most stunning landscapes. While Highway 1 is undergoing repairs, the iconic southern route to Big Sur is accessible to guests of Post Ranch Inn via helicopter from Hearst Castle Pergola in San Simeon, California. The Hearst Castle helicopter package is available through October 7, 2017.

• Scandinavia: Go see what all the fuss is about in Copenhagen, Stockholm, and Oslo. Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) is having a big sale, with deals from $499 round-trip for travel between their seven US gateways and Europe from October 4 and May 31. Don't wait: The sale ends August 24.

• Cartagena: If you haven't been to Colombia yet, here's a great reason to head down. Our pals at Skylark scored a great airfare-plus-hotel deal at the chic and charming Tcherassi Hotel. (You'll have to join Skylark to get the rates.)

• Marfa, Texas: For Burning Man vibes in the West Texas desert, head to the 12th annual Trans-Pecos Festival of Music + Love. The communal, nomadic campground concept (guests sleep in vintage trailers, Sioux-style tepees, yurts, and safari tents) runs from September 28 to October 1, 2017.

• Chesapeake Bay, Maryland: Classic car aficionados will want to head to Inn at Perry Cabin by Belmond from September 21-26 for the return of the Concours d'Elgance. The hotel is celebrating the three-day event with a special package that includes accommodations, champagne, and VIP tickets.

• Asia: If you've got a spare $64,888 in a cupboard somewhere, consider Remote Land's 17-day, Aman Hotels journey through Asia. Sixteen people will fly private jet and hotel-hop from China to Bhutan to India to Sri Lanka from October 8-24. If you want even more, the 21-day trip in April includes Vietnam, Montenegro, and Japan.

• Southeast Asia: Another reason to fly east in the spring: May is the kickoff for planting season in Cambodia and Vietnam. Get your fill of lush tropical landscapes on an Aqua Expeditions Mekong River cruise during "green season." Book now to take advantage of the special summer rate of 30 percent off departures between May 1-July 27, 2018.

WHERE WE'VE BEEN

• I went on a grand hotel tour in London last July. In brief: I spent opening night at Nobu Hotel Shoreditch, the chain's first standalone hotel, where I loved the calm Zen vibe and the brass fittings in the bathroom (really! they were gorgeous!). I toured the don't-call-it-a-Soho-House Ned and tried to count the 400 restaurants in the former bank building (kidding, though barely). I previewed the trippy Mandrake, which has the best multi-beast taxidermied kangaroo-deer-peacock I've ever seen, as well as a beautiful atrium with hanging vines. I found Flemings Mayfair to be as great as Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly says it is. And I had my best meal of the trip at chef Ollie Dabbous's restaurant at super charming Henrietta Hotel in Covent Garden. That is all. – Pavia, CEO

• I have a long list of cute Hudson Valley B&Bs to check out, but had a helluva time finding one that allows kids. One of our 24 Best Travel Blogs & Websites, And North, tipped me off to Audrey's Farmhouse, a very cozy, 280-year-old farmhouse in Wallkill, run by a cool couple who outfitted five bedrooms and a cottage with chic furniture, Aesop toiletries, coffee table books, and taxidermy. They make a killer breakfast, converted a pool into a natural swimming hole (with frogs!) and set up a few hammocks, walking paths, and a fire pit in their big backyard. Looking forward to going back once snow falls. – Jeralyn, editorial director

• I checked into to the recently opened Hotel RL, a budget-friendly property on the border of Bushwick and Bed-Stuy with a charming back garden, decent lobby bar, and community-oriented performance space. I'm glad that more boutique hotels are popping up in Brooklyn, especially outside Williamsburg, though this one felt more like a step above a hostel than anything else. Still, being able to earn a free night stay by donating to Project Wake Up Call, the hotel's partner philanthropic initiative, is a nice way to book an affordable room in the heart of Brooklyn. – Daniel, editor

HOTEL INTEL

• We've got our eye on the late August arrival of Proper Hotel San Francisco, a new hotel concept from former Viceroy Hotels CEO Brad Korzen and his design superstar wife Kelly Wearstler. Also in the pipeline are outposts in Hollywood, Downtown LA, Austin, and Santa Monica.

• Later this month, Verride Palacio Santa Catarina, an 18th-century Portuguese palace-turned-hotel will be making its debut in the heart of Lisbon.

• Renowned Danish ballet dancer Alexander Kølpin is behind the fall opening of Sanders, a stunning 54-room boutique hotel in Copenhagen's historic center.

• Edition Hotels is making a big commitment to Tokyo. Come 2020, the Ian Schrager-designed boutique will open not one, but two new properties.

Updated 7/18/17:

• How can you go on safari without using a year's worth of vacation days? Nomad Tanzania's Streamlined Safari is a good option. In six days, you'll see a Discovery Channel checklist: the Serengeti plains, the Ngorongoro crater, a Masaai tribe, and, of course, amazing wildlife. It's available year-round, but if you want to see the Great Migration, go between June and November. Rates begin at $5,283.

• It's not too late to book a trip to see this summer's total solar eclipse — the first in decades. On August 21, 2017, the newly opened Anvil Hotel in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, will host a jam-packed day of fun events, including a moon-flow yoga class, local bands, and a tailgate lunch. Individual tickets are $375 and can be reserved by calling the hotel directly, or come for a four-night stay, which starts at $1,145.

• At LE Miami last month, we learned about La Donaira, a gorgeous eco-minded retreat in southern Spain. From August 18-22, they're hosting their first Pause Festival, five days of concerts, yoga,workshops, tapas, and vino. The big idea? To connect by disconnecting. Sounds like an excellent excuse to go see it all firsthand.

• Dreaming of Iceland? The Nordic country's affordable air carrier, Wow Air, has launched a new route connecting Chicago's O'Hare (ORD) to Keflavík (KEF). One-way fares start at $150.

• Start planning your trip to the biggest balloon fiesta in the world, the 46th Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta, which takes place October 7-15, 2017, in Albuquerque, New Mexico. Check out the daily schedule of events.

• If you're looking for a summer steal, consider a last-minute getaway to Cabo San Lucas, Mexico, where you can save 30 percent on luxury villas and residences at Esperanza, an Auberge Resort.

• Enjoy summer in Amsterdam like the Dutch do. Conservatorium, a Fathom Favorite hotel, is offering a Welcome to Holland package, which includes a private cycling tour, canal boat ride, and a picnic in Vondelpark through September 17, 2017. Rates start at €566.50 and require a two-night stay.

• The beautifully renovated Pulitzer Amsterdam is conducting a little VIP action during the annual Grachtenfestival, August's ten-day classical music showcase for emerging and established talent. Guests of the hotel can enjoy cocktails, bites, and concerts in the inner garden (8/13 and 8/16), not to mention incredible seats for The Pulitzer Concert, which is staged on pontoons floating on the water directly in front of the hotel. Really get into the spirit by booking the Music Collector's Suite, a two-room suite complete with a collection of vinyl, a vintage record player, and instruments.

If you want help planning any of these trips, email us at travel@fathomaway.com to book through the Fathom Travel Desk.

Updated 4/28/17:

• Want to show mom Mother's Day love? Take her away. 21C, our favorite museum-cum-hotel in Lexington, Kentucky, is offering a Renew, Refresh, Relax package for an overnight stay in corner room, $100 spa credit, breakfast, and a Malin + Goetz gift bag.

• One for the family: Memorial Day weekend at Mohonk Mountain House in upstate New York. The agenda includes A Jelly Bean Field Day and a magic show for the littles, tomahawk throwing and archery for the apathetic teens.

• It's Great Migration season though Serengeti National Park in Tanzania, and to celebrate the arrival of the zebras (by the hudreds of thousands!) and widebeests (a million of 'em!), Four Seasons Safari Lodge Serengeti is giving guests the fourth night free.

• Do you do that thing where you go on vacation and find yourself planning your next vacation? We do, too. The folks at Baglioni Resort Cala del Porto, a fantastic Tuscan hotel that we visited last year, will give guests who go to Italy two free nights at their sister hotel Baglioni Resort Maldives. Yes, you'll be thanking your July vacation in January.

A Winsome Stay at Zurich's Widder Hotel

Modernism meets medieval history at the Widder Hotel on the shores of Lake Zurich.

ZURICH — Zurich is having something of a design moment and a foodie moment. So much so that I'd say the Swiss lakes are giving Italy a run for its money. Visitors are in for rare treats in the beautifully preserved city on the shores of Lake Zurich. 

I was especially taken on my recent visit when I stayed at the Widder Hotel, a five-star, design-led boutique in the heart of the quaint Old Town. A series of townhouses from the 15th-century have been expertly combined to create a 49-room sanctuary, with two restaurants and one very chic bar scene.

The hotel’s authentic shuttered façade overlooks Rennweg, a pedestrian street in the quiet Augustiner quarter, a perfect jumping-off point for exploration. I loved this neighborhood of medieval church spires and cobblestone walkways, but it was the juxtaposition of styles at The Widder that really won me over. From the intimate library (original stone walls, Eames chairs, state-of-the-art, wood-burning stove) to the sleek glass elevators, the Widder is a wonderful discovery for tourists, foodies, and business travelers alike.

Book It

Design Double Rooms start at CHF470 ($480). The penthouse (CHF4,000) has fireplaces, terraces, and bi-level spaces ideal for large groups and long-term stays. Check for availability.

Checking In

This place is stylish from the minimalist check-in desk. Everyone, from the helpful concierges to the valets, is clad in sleek suits (and appears under low, directional lighting). It feels polished and luxurious. You’ll want to enlist the help of the connected concierge for advice on exploring the surrounding historic neighborhood and for help booking the best tables.

Location
Set in the heart of the Old Town, the location can’t be beat for its proximity to not only the business district, but also to the unspoiled beauty of Lake Zurich, the Limmat River, and the snow-capped Alps. The bustling shopping street, Bahnhofstrasse, is steps away, but it is the peaceful surrounding streets that make the location so special. Tip: Hundreds of church bells on Sunday mornings make for a rare symphony.

Hotel Style
Modernism meets medieval history with original, rough-hewn oak beams integrated with glass and chrome walls. It feels less like a hotel and more like a guest lounge. The Igloo, a winter pop-up that runs from November 2 to January 31, 2018, is a glass atrium bar that's been transformed into an all-white winter wonderland serving icy cocktails and traditional Raclette.

This Place Is Perfect For
The Widder is ideal for business travelers (it’s quiet and just steps from the Financial District), curious tourists, and design lovers (the mix of original oak finishes and cutting edge LED TVs and glass elements are just fascinating). The whole place is something of an engineering feat.

But Not So Perfect For
The Widder isn’t as perfect as say, Dolder Grand, for families with young kids. It has a quieter tone — and no swimming pool — and it caters to a slightly older crowd.

What’s on Site
A subterranean fitness center with TechnoGym equipment is excellent for curing jet lag (personal training and nutritional coaching are available), but this isn’t a spa destination. For that, book in at the nearby Dolder Grand for the Norman Foster-designed spa with every state-of-the-art, soothing treatment under the Swiss sun.

Food + Drink
Breakfast is often included in the room rate (subject to booking) and the bright AuGust brasserie offers everything from homemade Bircher muesli to croissants, with a vast selection of teas and frothy coffees. The more formal Widder Bar & Kitchen is a destination for locals and serves a weird mélange of cuisines — Swiss favorites, curries, themed tasting menus focused on a specific ingredient (recent examples include chili, cilantro, basil). The Widder Bar Summer Lounge is a truly special, leafy niche that’s "open in fine weather” from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m.

The Rooms
There are 49 rooms and suites featuring different design elements and color schemes. No two are the same. Most feature original woodwork and stone finishes, and each feels like light-filled, sumptuous oasis.

In-Room Amenities
Movement-sensitive night lights, adjustable mattresses, bathroom mirrors with integrated TVs, Bang & Olufsen stereos, Nespresso machines, minibars stocked with Swiss chocolates, and excellent, free WiFi are all standard.

Drawbacks
I liked everything, but certain rooms are darker than others. (Request the bright Room 403 for energizing blue details and a Le Corbusier couch.)

Standout Detail
The service here is lovely — a mix of organized excellence and warmth. The staff makes every effort to over-deliver, and if the hotel car is free and waiting, they will happily take you to nearby sights or even to the airport (as was the case when I departed at 5 a.m.). Personalized business cards for your stay are a nice touch.

Checking Out

Neighborhood
The Old Town is a magical part of Zurich — there are no cars or chain stores! (Save one Starbucks that I spotted.) The 15th- and 16th-century buildings, and particularly the churches with their enormous clock faces, make this feel like a blissful, old-fashioned time warp.

What to Do Nearby
For a cultural fix, don’t miss the Kunsthaus with its collection of Giacometti, Munch, Picasso, and Matisse, and the contemporary Kunsthalle gallery. But it is the surrounding streets — and natural beauty — that are most special. St. Peter’s Church, with the largest church clock in Europe, is a one-minute walk from the hotel. The stained glass windows by Marc Chagall at the Fraumünster Church are definitely worth a detour.

Don’t miss the concierge’s recommendations that cover everything from food to nearby walks. One of my favorites is Schwarzenbach, a must for foodie delights of all kinds — global teas, chocolates, and every kind of dried fruit imaginable. Spitzenhaus is more than just a parfumerie; the owners have curated a luxurious mini scent museum that provides an incredible education. Limited Stock is a spare, tasteful design store full of artisanal things from Europe and Japan set in an old blacksmith’s atelier.

Good to Know
This is a walking city, so pack shoes accordingly. If possible, don’t miss a Sunday morning in the Old Town. I had no idea how special this would be.

Plan Your Trip

The airport is about 30 minutes from the hotel in traffic, and the train station is just minutes away. Before leaving the airport, get a ZürichCARD travel and discount pass for access to all public transport, including trams, trolley buses, and trains that run in the most timely Swiss fashion. The pass also covers admission to many museums.

Getting Around
The city is largely free of cars, making it perfect for exploring on foot. Taxis are widely available as well.

Explore More Great Swiss Hotels

Bathing Rituals of an Alpine Spa
Swissotel is the Place to Stay in Dresden, AKA Florence on the Elbe 
I'm 25 in Switzerland. Life Should Always This Good

A Kid-Centric Weekend in the Windy City

Balancing kid-friendly fancies with mature tastes is the key to any tantrum-free family getaway. Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly tackled the task with her daughter during a weekend in Chicago. Here's what she did.

CHICAGO – It had easily been ten years since my last non-work trip to Chicago, and with a short weekend window presenting itself, my eleven-year-old daughter Kate and I decided to head to the Windy City for hefty doses of architecture, culture, relaxation, great food, and visits with friends. The manageable city on the shores of Lake Michigan didn't disappoint, and we came away feeling relaxed, rejuvenated, and extremely well fed.

DAY ONE: THE LOOP, THE MAGNIFICENT MILE, AND MORE

With less than 36 hours, we hit the ground running and went straight for Millennium Park for the famed Anish Kapoor sculpture Cloud Gate, which locals refer to as "The Bean." The beautiful, mirrored droplet inspired by liquid mercury is wonderful for all ages and reflects the surrounding skyline and architecture to dazzling effect. A twelve-foot high arch beneath the piece makes for fun explorating. We could easily have spent half the day exploring Millennium Park's Crown Fountain, Lurie Garden, and the Frank Gehry-designed BP Bridge.

But we were off to Art Institute of Chicago to marvel at the permanent collections. We stopped for lunch in the Renzo Piano-designed wing at Terzo Piano — a minimalist, pure white space with a menu of mezzes, flatbreads, and creative salads. Perfect museum fare. Well fed, we went back down Michigan Avenue, stopping at various Walgreen's along the way. Yes, really. The concept of the "drugstore" takes on a whole new meaning in Chicago, and at select branches (like the one in the iconic Wrigley Building), we found fresh sushi (complete with on-site chef!), pricey liquor, and treasures that made for one-stop shopping in a gilt-trimmed setting.

Smiles for the cupcake experience.

The restaurant, and its portions, are massive. Photo courtesy of Hugo's Frog Bar.

After we took the obligatory photos on the Chicago River bridge, we pushed on to the shopping area that typifies the area they call "Gold Coast" for good reason. Magnificent Mile is packed with big-ticket designer boutiques (Prada, Gucci, Hermes), and the adjoining streets have more accessible spots like Sprinkles Cupcakes on East Walton Street. For the uninitiated, this is a confectionary concept that features a cupcake ATM that is restocked 24 hours a day with a variety of insanely sweet treats for people. And dogs, too. This was, by far, the highlight of Chicago, as far as Kate was concerned.

Refueled once again, we scouted other restaurants like Jellyfish (inventive sushi in a glass atrium), Carmine's (enormous portions of Italian red-sauce classics), and Hugo's Frog Bar (terrible name; excellent seafood). Hugo's is a fun, nautically themed concept for parents and kids alike. They serve huge plates of shrimp cocktail, planked Lake Superior whitefish, and beautiful charbroiled burgers. Think BIG!

After a lot of walking, eating, and drinking (we found coffee and tea shops on virtually every corner, which was a nice way to combat Chicago's notorious chill), we went back to The Peninsula Hotel to relax in the spa. I'm not usually one for massages and treatments, but I'd heard wonderful things about their Bamboo Harmonizer massage and decided to give it a whirl. The treatment is designed to suck away negative energy and stimulate the flow of positive qi energy. (Yes, please!) It was the most thoroughly relaxing 90 minutes I've ever experienced. Maybe it was the combination of warm bamboo rods being rolled all over my tired legs and feet or the gentle clacking sound of the wood, but I fell asleep hard and awoke completely reinvigorated. Do carve out time for this one.

After prying ourselves from the hotel, we went to Bistronomic, a bustling bistro just around the corner, for dinner. Our was a multi-generational group, and everyone found something on the menu. Ddelicious terrines of tuna tartare, garlicky escargot, and crispy duck confit — all French classics infused with modern flair. A huge Baked Alaska (keeping it old-school) made for the perfect ending to a memorable meal and a packed day.

Obscenely gooey delicious. Photo courtesy of Bistronomic.

DAY TWO: PANCAKES, DAVID BOWIE, AND A KICK-ASS AQUARIUM

Another winner in the big food category is Pancake House, a downtown breakfast staple that serves excellent omelets in a traditional, diner ambience. From here, we went to Museum of Contemporary Art to see the exhibit "David Bowie Is." While this may not be the most kid-friendly content (what with all the coke spoons, sex, and colorful language), the highly interactive show features music, film footage, and outlandish costumes, including Ziggy Stardust bodysuits and Alexander McQueen coats. This was the show's only North American stop, and it was so worth a detour. (Lady Gaga wouldn't be Gaga without the influence of Bowie.) MCA's well-stocked gift shop sells everything from Union Jack throws and pillows to Andromeda iPhone covers to "Let's Dance" earrings.

A psychedelic sea creature dance party. Photo by Cwillbounds / Flickr.

After circling back to the hotel to pick up our complimentary Mini Cooper (this can be arranged in advance and was second only to Sprinkles Cupcakes in my daughter's "cool" view), we headed to Shedd Aquarium on the other side of town. As it's one of the largest aquariums in the world, you'll want to plan your visit in advance. I highly recommend the technicolor "Jellies" exhibit (on view until January 2015) because those amorphous creatures are pretty entrancing.

In the name of research, we stopped by Foodlife in Water Tower Place, a place that takes the food court concept to an entirely new level. Foodlife is a collection of casual dining concepts within one main, bustling space. Separate kitchens turn out excellent, fresh food that ranges from sushi and inventive salads to signature Chicago deep-dish pizza. Dedicated dessert areas serving custom-made crepes were the culinary highlight for the younger members of our entourage. And if I'm being honest, this is my favorite way to eat too — a bit of this, a bit of that.

Step inside a captured German U-boat. Photo by Abadonmi01 / Flickr.

If time or weather had allowed, I would have taken a Chicago Architecture Foundation River Cruise because it's the best way to learn about the city's rich architectural history. My next trip will also include a stop at Museum of Science and Industry to see its U-505 German submarine from World War II, Omnimax Theatre, and mirror mazes.

Our last stop, Gibson's Bar & Steakhouse, didn't disappoint for early dinner. This is exactly the kind of food and atmosphere I expect from Chicago: enormous steaks, wedge salads loaded with bacon and blue cheese, and Bookbinder's soup in a warm, wood-paneled setting. The completely unpretentious meal was the perfect end to our whirlwind weekend. We made our way to the airport feeling sated in every way.

The chocolate bar and the Shanghai Terrace. Photos courtesy of Peninsula Hotel.

WHERE TO STAY

The Peninsula in the heart of downtown Chicago tops my list. This particular outpost just gets kids/tweens/teens. We were greeted at 9 p.m. by a dessert bar in the main dining room that was Willy Wonka-esque in every way. Vats of candies, make-your-own sundae bars, a waffle station, and chocolate bon-bons all made for the perfect, warm Midwest welcome.

Our spacious room was no less impressive, with its Fili D'oro linens, endless amenities (stuffed animals, Oscar de La Renta creams, fresh fruit platters), and sweeping views of Water Tower Park and the lake in the distance. Highlights included a sprawling swimming pool — complete with glorious, twenty-foot windows and plush robes — a Zen spa, and Shanghai Terrace, the hotel's dim sum hotspot that's long on shrimp dumplings and has a red lacquer vibe. Add in a small skating rink that's open during the winter months, and this spot is pretty much kid nirvana.

Just down the street you'll find the relatively new Thompson Hotel, a Tara Bernerd-designed gem that features lots of warm wood, modernist light fixtures, and living walls at every turn. In-house restaurant Nico Osteria is worth a stop for lunch or dinner and serves some of the best crudo and housemade taglioni — not to mention biscotti and maple gelati — that I've tasted anywhere (Italy included).

Also worth mentioning: Park Hyatt, Ritz Carlton Chicago (now managed by Four Seasons), and a new Waldorf Astoria that offers spacious rooms and suites, many of which are specifically designed to accommodate families. All of these hotels are perfectly positioned for exploring the stylish Gold Coast area, nearby Michigan Avenue, and the many great restaurants located within a five-block radius.

HOW TO GET THERE

The numerous flight options in and out of Chicago O'Hare International Airport (ORD) make traveling with kids and changing plans at a moment's notice (my forte) easy and manageable. While Chicago is a United Airlines hub, I recommend American Airlines for Terminal 3's food offerings alone. Celebrated chef Rick Bayless' Tortas Frontera — an incredible restaurant specializing in warm, open-faced sandwiches of smoked bacon and tres queso — makes a long layover almost worth it.

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE

Chicago, One Neighborhood at a Time
Chicago: How to Eat Like a Local
Two Bars, One Big Appetite

Finding Peace in Porto Ercole, Italy

Just off the Tuscan coastline equidistant to Rome and Florence lies Monte Argentario, a bizarrely-shaped peninsula connected to the mainland by three narrow strips of land. Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly and her family checked into Il Pellicano, a posh hotel in Porto Ercole on the southern end of the island.

There are a few places left on earth where genocide, the crumbling euro, and any sort of reality simply cease to exist. Il Pellicano, a luxurious yet laid back bolthole on Italy's Tuscan coast, is one such place. It's personal and cool, which makes it endearing. And it's a little shabby chic, which means there definitely won't be rappers or Russian oligarchs occupying the next beach chair.

My family and I recently spent a few languid days of sun, spa, and signature jumbo club sandwiches delivered poolside. Dolce vita indeed.

WHAT TO DO

Not too much. This is Italy, after all, where the stars of a "big" day are your iconic yellow-and-white pool lounger and copious amounts of the hotel's freshly squeezed succhi di frutta (apricot, peach, and blueberry varieties are excellent).

This is the place to quietly read, reflect, and play the odd game of tennis or backgammon. The most strenuous decision you'll encounter is whether to take a day trip on Pellicano's elegant wooden boat, Riva (so Med!), from the private, cliff-side dock or whether to order local langoustines for lunch.

Despite its price point (25 euros for a sandwich), Il Pellicano feels small, chic, and casual, with a library, DVDs, tennis rackets, and ping pong paddles all for communal use.

Definitely take it off campus at least once to explore nearby towns like Pitigliano, where you'll find Etruscan ruins and typical Tuscan trattorias. And Sovana, a medieval village with a wonderful palazzo and picturesque pizzas. Kids will love Il Giardino dei Tarocchi ("Tarot Garden"), Niki de Saint Phalle's brightly-colored sculptural park. Natural Park of Maremma is a wonderful place to see wildlife and explore the area on horseback.

MANGIARE BENE

Food is, naturally, a major focus of any Italian day, and the options here will not disappoint. Everything is delicious and locally sourced: the enormous breakfast served on an idyllic terrace, lunch al fresco at the Tuscan PelliGrill, and lavish, two-Michelin-starred Il Pellicano Ristorante. What this place really has going for it is that they serve food that you really want to eat — gazpacho, insalata caprese, and spaghetti alla chitarra ai frutti di mare (seafood galore) — and not overdone, complicated dishes.

That said, when the craving for a plain, wood-fired pizza strikes, you won't find it here. This is when you head into town for dinner on the charming Porto Ercole harbor, where you'll find a bustling, yet low-key nightlife that is focused on families wandering the piers and eating in outdoor trattorias. The best among these are Gambero Rosso and La Lampara (Lungo Mare Andrea Doria, 68; +39-0564-833024), where you'll eat the homemade pastas, line-caught seabass, and crispy pizzas that inspired your trip in the first place.

DON'T MISS

The chairs at the water's edge at Il Pellicano afford views of the deep, blue sea with majestic islands dotted across the horizon. This is the perfect place to watch scantily clad Europeans slather themselves in oil, light the occasional cigarette, and gesticulate wildly as they speak many different languages. Two days, and you'll feel completely removed from any worries you may have had going in.

The spa and gift shop are also pretty wonderful at Il Pellicano. The carefully curated store has Eres bathing suits, Anya Hindmarch bags with Porto Ercole imagery, and perfectly floaty sarongs that play well in this part of the world. This being Italy, the entire gym is yours to use — even at peak hours — which is a nice touch at such a small resort. Luxurious (if wildly expensive) massages and pedicures are also available with minimal advance notice.

If ever there were a place to sip tropical cocktails, it's at All'Aperto Bar, conveniently located between the pool and the main house. Watch dusk give way to starry skies with a summer Bellini (and at 23 Euros per, you might want just one) and raise a glass to your good fortune.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

There are a variety of room types at Il Pellicano. None work particularly well for families as they do not inter-connect. Then again, this place doesn't have kid-friendly written all over it any way, which I mean in the best possible way.

If you're looking for value for money, get a garden view room, which has a pleasant terrace and views of the tennis court or surrounding mountain landscape. Stunning rooms with sea views will more than triple the price but are ideal for special, secluded stays.

The drinks and snacks in the mini bar are free — though not much else is. Bring a bottle of water or an aranciata with you to the pool, and you'll save approximately 9 euros a pop.

GETTING THERE

Fly: One of the selling points of Porto Ercole — and the Maremma area of Tuscany in general — is its ease of execution on the travel front. Fly to Rome or Florence and you're gazing out over the sea in just under two hours.

Drive: The resort is on a cliff and it's not near much. You'll absolutely need to rent a car to get to there and to explore the small towns.

FIND IT

Il Pellicano
Località Sbarcatello 
58019 Porto Ercole 
Grosseto, Italy
+39-0564-858111
reservations@pellicanohotels.com 

South Africa's Luxe and Low-Key Tswalu Redefines the Safari

Subtly luxurious lodgings and top-knotch guides come together to perfectly redefine "safari." Contributing editor Christina Ohly has her ultimate bespoke safari experience.

KALAHARI DESERT, South Africa – From the moment I arrived at the Johannesburg airport for the flight to Tswalu, a truly unique game reserve located in the southern part of the Kalahari Desert, I knew this one was going to be different. My family and I boarded their luxurious Pilatus plane for the one-and-a-half hour hop to Tswalu's dedicated airstrip, warmly welcomed and escorted to a thatched roof terminal, and were greeted with thousands of chirping sociable weaver birds. The eco-adventure had begun!

What sets Tswalu apart is not so much its red sand dunes and sprawling grasslands — though those certainly make for spectacular viewing — but the completely relaxed pace and tasteful motse (the local Tswana word for "village") that create a safari unlike any other I've experienced. After checking into one of the eight spacious legae — "little houses" — you'll have to pry yourself from your sun terrace in order to take in the game which you've theoretically come to see. No detail has been overlooked, and while the suites are utterly simple (think minimalist contemporary furnishings mixed with traditional African baskets and art) the details — outdoor showers and big, open fireplaces — make them special.

Tswalu offers a bespoke safari experience. Gone are the 5 a.m. wake-up calls (unless you want them), endless off-schedule meals, and the quest for the Big Five. Tswalu — a thousand-square-kilometer reserve that is a labor of love for the Oppenheimer family — is all about conservation and land use, as well as the pursuit of animals that are not easily found elsewhere. Enormous black-maned Kalahari lions dazzle. So do families of frolicking meerkats, elegant giraffes strolling across open plains, and the elusive aardvark. It is also a birder's paradise, with over two hundred rare species readily on view. There is no sense of imminent danger here and that makes Tswalu what I refer to as "safari lite": you will constantly see, do, and learn, but without the threat of being some animal's next meal.

The guides and trackers are top-notch ecologists who lead safaris in a Land Rover, on horseback, or even on foot so that you can get up close to nature. Tracking takes on new meaning here. Our guide was happy to alight from the vehicle, rifle in hand, and bushwhack until he found prides of lions and desert black rhinos languishing in the mid-day sun. Other highlights included sleeping under the stars, eating a delicious lunch by the motse pool, and receiving authentic spa treatments that incorporate indigenous red dune sand, desert minerals, and botanical fibres. Add to this the absence of malaria and a warm community comprised of 142 staff members (plus a peek into their eco-friendly housing, preschool, dedicated health clinic, and adult literacy programmes) and you get a real sense of how Tswalu is transforming this massive area, in terms of both environmental conservation and education.

With only twenty guests at a time, Tswalu feels more like an intimate, low-key house party than a Relais & Chateaux nestled at the foot of the Korannaberg Mountains. Its stated mission is "to restore the Kalahari to itself"; and I left this magical place feeling as though I'd been restored to myself as well.

FIND IT

Tswalu Kalahari
+27-0-53-781-9331
res@tswalu.com

Bahamas with the Kids: Harbour Island Essentials

It's not that this three-mile stretch of sand in the Bahamas is unknown. It’s that Harbour Island's relative inaccessibility has kept developers, big hotels, and obnoxious types away. Their loss is your gain: delicious food, the most pristine pink sand beach on the planet, just enough nightlife, and a pleasingly international vibe. (Nassau is an easy flight from Europe, which explains the Brits, the Italians, the French.) The perfect mix of local warmth and nice amenities, Harbour Island is a far cry from the kids clubs and sprawling spas so common at mega resorts. In other words, the island may be pricey, but that won’t stop the chickens and lizards from wandering across your patio.

WHERE TO STAY

The two-bedroom casitas at Pink Sands are great for families. The Balinese vibe was cultivated by the former owner, British music exec-turned-hotelier Chris Blackwell, and it leaves you feeling even farther away. The beach is gorgeous and the water is calm, clear, and shallow. Just down the path is Blue Bar, great for patio dining overlooking the sea — and for a Goombay Smash, the killer Bahamian rum drink that will kick anyone's ass. Coral Sands next door is under the same management and is another good option for cool parents and kids. Both properties have saltwater pools, but neither has fancy fitness facilities.

WHERE TO EAT

Head to town. The Landing is incomparable: amazing local ingredients (langoustines, grouper, fresh chicken curry), refined yet simple cuisine, a beautiful setting under trees, twinkling lights. Kids love the easy feeling of the India Hicks-backed venture; parents love lazing on outdoor settees aside the odd luminary. The Rolling Stones, Lenny Kravitz, Uma and Arki — all island regulars. (For more info, read The Landing postcard.) Mornings must begin with freshly baked Bahamian herb bread or croissants at Arthur's Bakery.

When you’re ready for a night without the progeny, ask Pink Sands to call a sweet sitter and head to Rock House for the gay/Euro/fabulous scene and the cuisine. Here, too, the focus is on fresh, locally caught fish and ingredients. The crowd stays late, lounging on couches around a central, sleek pool area. How totally Ibiza. 

WHAT TO DO

My kids loved taking a guided boat ride with Duke, a local conch and bone fisherman. Just ask for him at the town dock. The affable Duke picks up starfish, follows sea turtles, and finds shallow bays where kids can swim. Golf carts are de riguer on Harbour Island, and what kid doesn’t love a golf cart? The snorkeling is terrific, as is watching the conch guys come in with the day’s catch and clean the beautiful shells. It won’t take much to make you happy here. 

WHERE TO SHOP

All ages love the Dilly Dally, located at the main intersection in town, for Bahamamian straw goods, "briland" tees, postcards, and jewelry and ornaments crafted from pink conch shells. (In other words, the irresistible trinkets you buy on holiday and start questioning on the plane ride home.) India Hicks' Sugar Mill is the glamorous source for caftans, European finds, and beach gear. Ditto the Blue Rooster on King Street, where you'll find gorgeous sundresses, scarves, and unique sandals. Even a trip to mini-supermarket The Piggly Wiggly is good fun, just to see what came in on the boat from the mainland that day.

First Look: Bahia Vik, Jose Ignacio

Bahia Vik, set to open any day now in Jose Ignacio, is already poised to be one of the hottest destinations of the winter season. Contributing editor Christina Ohly was one of the first to get a look around. 

JOSE IGNACIO, Uruguay – If you're looking for the ultimate sunset, overlooking ten acres of sprawling dunes, then Bahia Vik has your name written all over it.

CHECKING IN

Set to open in winter 2014 in time for high season, the hotel is a perfect compliment to Vik Retreats sister properties Playa Vik, just down the beach, and Estancia Vik, their equestrian "farm" situated inland. Bahia Vik features contemporary Uruguayan art, sleek furnishings, and minimalist pools at every turn. Environmentally friendly casitas are understated yet luxurious at the same time and everything tastefully melds into the the oceanfront landscape.

In the Room

Eleven unique bungalows and 37 guest rooms and suites range in style and finish, but each incorporates indigenous Uruguayan woods and grey slate for an overall sleek aesthetic. Art remains a huge focus for at any Vik (don't miss the James Turrell light installation at Playa Vik next door), and here the exuberant artwork is not only decorative, but real conversation starters as well.

Room with a View

Rooms are wildly expensive in the high season, but you get what you pay for, and every service is top-notch yet low-key at the same time. I stayed in a two-bedroom suite with my preteen kids who loved the big, comfortable beds and excellent snacks.

The bright, colorful, art-filled rooms.

What's on Site

I love a hotel with separate swimming pools for kids and adults, as it takes the pressure off everyone involved. Not that you need a pool, as Magna beach at your doorstep has gentle surf and some of the best South American people watching you'll find anywhere. (Microscopic bikinis are de rigueur.) Bahia guests can horseback ride at the nearby Estancia property or stroll down the dunes for a perfectly grilled hamburger or fresh sushi at the Vik's La Susana restaurant. In addition, a state-of-art spa and a well-appointed gym offer healthy diversions (no lines at the latter!).

The Food

Breakfast includes a complimentary buffet of yogurts, cheeses, and freshly baked local delicacies, but fluffy omelettes and pancakes appear in record time as well. Soy latte? Gluten intolerance? Nothing seems to throw this crew off, and they are genuinely happy to please every palate.

This Place Is Perfect for

Anyone with a pulse. Families are in full effect at the holidays, but honeymooners can find peace and quiet in sun-filled courtyards and poolside.

But Not So Perfect For

A recluse. Although why would one come here in the first place? Jose Ignacio is about wonderful, communal asados, parties, and long days spent at the beach or on horseback. If you're Type A or in a hurry, best to give this a pass.

The setting. Photo courtesy of Vik Resorts.

Hey Kids, Let's Go to LA

Los Angeles: A surprisingly great place for a quick family getaway. Three days is all you need to see a little bit of everything.

LOS ANGELES – Looking for a great warm-weather getaway that includes sun, sand, sea, and a James Beard Award-winning taco truck or two? Search no further than Los Angeles, one of my favorite spots for kids and grown-ups alike. And remember: No matter what the weather is where you are right now, it's always summer in LA.

SETTLE IN

Los Angeles is usually an easy place to get to with frequent flyer miles, which saves a nice penny. Once you've landed at LAX, with its Jetsons-esque control tower, head straight for the Fairmont Miramar in seaside Santa Monica. Less well known than nearby Shutters and Casa del Mar hotels, the Miramar offers the perfect mix of old Hollywood (bungalows and industry types taking meetings on the patio) and proximity to the beach. The property is off Ocean Boulevard, just five minutes from the Santa Monica Pier (aka Kid Heaven) and the hotel's fully-staffed beach cabanas, where you'll feel secluded amidst tall palms and relative calm.

DAY 1: The Warm-Up

If you're living large, book a bi-level bungalow. They're perfect for families and offer multiple terraces for swimsuit drying and picnics of decadent room service pancakes. The pool area is, of course, key for any kid, and the Miramar's amorphous version — complete with hot tub — doesn't disappoint. Ditto Fig Restaurant, which is twenty feet from the pool area. Hotel restaurant haters out there, stop your eyerolling and prepare for foodie greatness. Chef Ray Garcia's creative take on the classic California chopped salad features only fresh, organic, locally grown ingredients from the nearby Santa Monica Farmers Market. Everyone will love simple grilled cheese (gruyère or cheddar with tomato jam), pasta-less lasagna, and BLTs that are beyond compare.

After idling and eating, you'll want to take it off-campus. I find the best days with children include a mix of culture, playgrounds, and delicious food. Head up shop-lined Montana Avenue to the outdoor mini-mall Brentwood Country Mart. "Mini-mall" may be a stretch: Reese Witherspoon buys her trendy cover-ups and artisinal ice cream cones here. Kids will love pony rides in the parking lot on weekends and fish tacos and fries in the "food court." I stock up on tiny Tretorn tennies at Poppy Store, possibly my favorite children's store in the United States. A one-stop shop for toys, gifts, and basics, Poppy carries a perfectly edited mix of tasteful European brands (like England's Caramel Baby and Child) and American originals — all perfectly packaged, too. Kids will be distracted by the 25-cent ride-on toys outside the shop's window (talk about a throwback), allowing parents time to shop in peace.

Finish your day at Pizzeria Mozza, Mario Batali and Nancy Silverton's Hollywood hotspot with the best pies on the planet. Top the killer crust with the basics (margherita for beginners) or squash blossoms and speck for more sophisticated palates. This spot packs quickly, so book online if possible or suck it up and endure the line. If you have room for dessert, swing by Menchie's on the way back to the hotel for DIY frozen yogurt creations, complete with 40 colorful candy toppings.

DAY 2: A Malibu Mindset 

Start with breakfast at Cora's Coffee Shoppe, a sweet local hangout with Illy cappuccino, blueberry-banana-orange smoothies, and burrata caprese omelettes. Once you're appropriately fortified, head north up the Pacific Coast Highway for a day in picturesque Malibu. Make reservations at the kid-friendly Getty Center and Villa and roam the endless gardens that overlook the Pacific Ocean. All ages will be mesmerized by the museum's Greek and Roman treasures and collections of armor, coins, and beautiful photography by Atget and Walker Evans, among others.

After so much fresh air and light, you'll want to pack it in early. The best, old-school supper in town is at Ivy by the Shore (1535 Ocean Avenue; 310-393-3113) in Santa Monica. Ask for patio seating and feast on American classics with a SoCal flair: more chopped vegetable salads, pizzas, and decadent sundaes. Added bonus: The kitschy Hawaiian theme provides built-in entertainment for kids while parents people-watch. Stroll over to the twinkling Santa Monica Pier, which comes alive at sunset, before heading back to your hotel oasis.

DAY 3: Go Glam

When in LA, give in to its twin cultural pillars: celebrity and sunshine. A perfect third and final day includes breakfast to go from Huckleberry Cafe and Bakery. Who knew that star sightings pair so perfectly with prosciutto-stuffed croissants and Niman Ranch bacon-maple biscuits? (Huckleberry's new offshoot, Milo + Olive, serves delicious wood-fired pizzas, locally sourced everything, and great wines by the glass.) Head up Wilshire Boulevard to the eclectic Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), so kids can explore the Boone Children's Gallery before hitting the Page Museum and its oozing, prehistoric La Brea Tar Pits.

That's enough looking and learning. Time to repair to the Beverly Hills Hotel for a little lunch and Polo Lounge-ing. The pink landmark has verdant grounds, secluded spots for hide and seek, and one seriously glamorous pool scene. Your biggest decision here will be where to eat, and you'll want to let the kids tiumph with their choice: The Fountain Coffee Room, a 1950s gem of an old-fashioned soda fountain with bar stools, great burgers, malts, and floats. The only things missing are Bogey and Bacall and Lucy and Desi.

If you have energy to burn, make your last stop Griffith Park, a massive play space that is home to the Los Angeles Zoo, the Griffith Observatory, pony rides, a miniature train system, the Greek Theatre, and much more. Rent bikes to reach the merry-go-round built in 1926 near the Los Feliz entrance, where all 68 horses are jumpers wearing bejeweled bridles. How can you not love LA?

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Fathom's Los Angeles Guide: For hotels, restaurants, shops, sites, itineraries, and more.

MAP IT

See all the locations in this story. (Google Maps)

Photos: Courtesy of Poppy Store; Christina Ohly.

Zen Out in Paso Robles, California

Low-key and lovely, the Central Coast region of California is being hailed as the new Napa for its undulating hills and vineyards, proximity to the ocean, and stunning scenery. From food and wine galore and landmarks like Hearst Castle to the spectacular rocky beach at Morro Bay, this is a relatively undiscovered gem of a destination — though probably not for much longer.

Paso Robles ("Pass of the Oaks" in Spanish), in San Luis Obispo County, is located midway between San Francisco and Los Angeles, which makes it a great side trip from either, as well as a destination in its own right. The prices are lower and the vibe is more laid-back than Napa and Sonoma. The area feels authentic, a total mix — farm workers and fancy types, gay and straight — which make everything feel inclusive and interesting. Unwind while you sip varietals, lounge by the pool, and hang with genuine cowboys. By all means, bring the kids.

WHAT TO DO

Morning Fuel

The name doesn't scream "breakfast," but locals line up out the door at Hoover's Beef Palace (401 N. Main St., Templeton; +1-805-434-2114) for homemade sausage patties with eggs and enormous biscuits with gravy. This place is so legit that a) they don't have a website, but b) they do have their own slaughterhouse out back. If Hoover's is good enough for area ranchers and farm hands, it's good enough for you. Bonus: You'll banish that teensy weensy hangover you might have sustained from a wine tasting or two (or four) the day before.

Play

If you're in Paso Robles on the weekend, stop at Templeton Farmer's Market for the crazy bounty: artichokes the size of bowling balls, fresh berries, and baked goods. Kids will love the on-site playground and pony rides. For further running around, Barney Schwartz Park has a one-million-gallon lake, pavilions for picnics, and endless playing fields. See how olive oil is made at Pasolivo farm and mill. Their oils make for great souvenirs. 

Eat

McPhee's Grill in downtown Templeton serves a delicious bistro lunch with no-fuss attitude. Ancho duck and cheese quesadilla and pulled pork sandwich with shoestring fries are unparalleled. Follow up with a trip to Powell's Sweet Shoppe for dessert. If you're with kids, show them exactly how ancient you are when you buy candy by the decade. Everyone should know Wax Lips, Fruit Stripe gum, and Gobstoppers.

For a casual picnic, stock up on made-to-order sandwiches at Farmstand 46. Of special note, the Calamity Jane: roasted pork, cilantro, pickled daikon and carrots, and rooster aioli on a crusty baguette.

For dinner, go to the lovely Artisan Restaurant, where gouda and porter fondue with andouille, broccolini, and garlic bread is a little slice of heaven. Thomas Hill Organics serves lunch and dinner, with much on the plate coming from their family-run organic farm.  

At 15 Degrees C Wine Shop and Bar, you can taste and buy small-production Central Coast wines. Il Cortile Ristorante serves terrific Italian at lunch and dinner.  

Drink. A Lot.

When in Rome...Great soil conditions, proximity to the ocean, and mixed microclimates: That's the secret behind the hot new wine region's great products. Winemakers around here like to think outside the box, and they're producing interesting and great wines, especially in Rhône varietals. There are more than 200 Paso producers, and many of the best are small, family-owned wineries. Pace yourself. There's a lot to taste. 

- Venteux Vineyards (pictured above): Don't miss their incredible Farmhouse Cuvee. Here's a head start on your tasting notes: "I sense hints of lavender, black cherry, fig preserves, and sage."

- Halter Ranch Vineyard: Make for the hills for Côtes de Paso and a fine cabernet sauvignon. The spectacular 900-acre ranch historically produced its wines in an old airplane hangar but recently moved operations to a swanky new gravity-flow winery.

- AmByth Estate: The only certified biodynamic winery in the region.

- Saxum Vineyards: You can't visit the vineyard, but you can buy their noteworthy Syrah, as well as grenache and mourvèdre blends.

- And a few more good ones: Bella Luna Estate Winery, Booker Vineyard, Villa Creek Cellars (they have a restaurant in Paso Robles)

As for the well-known wineries, the ones to visit are: 

- Turley Wine Cellars: Their big, bold zinfandel has a serious cult following, so be prepared to pay up: Bottles often trade at two to three times suggested retail prices. At Turley, you can sample many old-vine zinfandels from all over California, as well as from three local vineyards. The estate and the beautiful tasting room are on the old Pesenti Vineyard, which has zinfandel vines that are more than 85 years old.

- Justin Vineyards and Winery: Located down the road from Halter Ranch. Come on Saturdays and Sundays to feast al fresco at Deborah's Room, before hitting yet another tasting room for a sip of their "Left Bank, Bordeaux-style" blend, Isosceles.

- Tablas Creek Vineyard: The terroir in Las Tablas is similar to that of Châteauneuf du Pape. The estate's signature wines are Esprit de Beaucastel and Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc. 

If you don't want to drive, call Lush Limo for a full-service tour. (This is a great idea for non-tacky bachelor/bachelorette weekends, though, please, avoid the white stretch at all costs.)

Be Merry

Paso Robles loves itself a party.

- Anytime: Happy Acres Family Farm is a goat farm with more than 200 goats, alpacas, and miniature horses, where kids can milk the animals and make cheese. 

- March, May, October: The third weekends of the month are wine festivals. See calendar.

- July: The Fourth of July parade features floats and flags galore. Mid-State Fair combines musical acts, horse shows, and olive oil competition. "The Great American Road Trip" is the theme for 2012. 

- October: Pioneer Day is a festival of kindness and community spirit (how refreshing!). Harvest Wine Weekend celebrates a good old-fashioned grape crushing.

- December: Christmas Light Parade: For pure holiday kitsch.

Go Coastal

Make time for a scenic drive through the vineyards and over the mountains to the majestic San Luis Obispo Coast, where enormous elephant seals stage epic battles and their young pups bob in the surf. Just down Highway 1 is Mediterranean-inspired Hearst Castle, with its dazzling 165 rooms, endless gardens, and shimmering pools. Finish up any day in nearby seaside town Cayucos with a meal in the back garden at Hoppe's Garden Bistro, followed by brown-butter sea salt cookies at Brown Butter Cookie Company.

WHERE TO STAY

- Hotels: Hotel Cheval is a lovely 16-room boutique hotel with a European vibe and a welcoming pet program. Centrally located Paso Robles Inn has hot springs, a low-key spa, and a heated pool.

- B&Bs: Small, family-run inns are the name of the game here. One of the best for local color is the two-room guest house at Venteux Vineyards. If that's full, ask about their Red Barn next door. Both offer a farm-stay feel, and kids will love the pool, sport court, and tractor rides. Orchard Hill Farm is an elegant — and much beloved — English-style manor house. Cass House Inn and Restaurant in Cayucos is convenient to Hearst Castle and the cute seals in San Luis State Park.

- Homes: Rent a house through Paso Robles Vacation Rentals.

HOW TO GET THERE

Fly: San Luis Obispo Airport (SLO), located 24 miles from Paso Robles, is a complete delight in today's travel terms. It's small, manageable, and has several rental car agency options, as well as taxis. Fly United Airlines from Los Angeles and San Francisco or US Airways from Phoenix.

Drive: San Francisco is about three hours away; Los Angeles about three and a half. Depending, as ever, on traffic. 

WEATHER

Come prepared for California's highest swing between daytime highs and nighttime chills.
- Average high/low temperatures in Farenheit: 87/50 in summer, 60/34 in winter.
- April-October: highs from mid-70s to mid-90s.
- March and November: highs in mid-70s.
- December-February: highs in low 60s.

MAP IT

See the locations on this trip. (Google Maps)

BEST OF THE WEB

- The Complete Guide to America's Hottest New Wine Country (Details, April 2011)
- Paso Robles Celebrates Harvest Weekend (Travel + Leisure, October 2011) 
- Planning Your Trip to Paso Robles (Los Angles Times, January 2010) 
- Robert Parker on the Promise of Paso Robles (Food & Wine, October 2007)

LOCAL COLOR

- City of Paso Robles: official website
- Paso Robles Official Visitor Site 
- Paso Robles Wine: winery information, maps, and events calendars from Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance
- Paso Robles Winery Map 
- Hoot 'n' Annie: wine blog
- The Tribune/SanLuisObispo.com: news and information

Three-Day Weekends from Boston

Contributing editor Christina Ohly sends us packing for two peaceful weekend spots just a short drive from Boston. When can we leave?

BOSTON – Maybe, just maybe, you can put away the snow shovel. It's springtime in Boston, and everything's coming up roses. Take off on a Friday in the near future to explore and enjoy a quainter, quieter side of New England.

WOODSTOCK, VERMONT

If you're in the mood for: green mountains, picture-postcard covered bridges, and white clapboard church steeples.

Route to take: I-89 North for two-and-a-half hours.

Your agenda: Woodstock Inn — recently revamped to include LED-everything — has a serene spa and delicious farm-to-table cuisine in its casual Red Rooster restaurant. Head across the quaint village green outside your front door and make stops at the old-school Gillingham's general store and Yankee Bookshop before a lovely dinner-a-deux at The Prince and The Pauper, a town institution.

Avoid the Sunday blues: Do not skip town without a stop for black raspberry ice cream cones at the White Cottage Snack Bar. Open only in summer, this low-key spot is worth a serious, deep-fried detour.

WATCH HILL AND WEEKAPAUG, RHODE ISLAND

If you're in the mood for: a gorgeous beach escape with excellent cuisine to match.

Route to take: I-95 South for two hours.

Your agenda: Nest at the recently revamped Weekapaug Inn where sail boats, fishing gear, and a discreet, black-bottomed pool are all at your disposal. A meal of locally caught lobster, Matunuck oysters, and native beets is as memorable as the sunsets overlooking bucolic Quonochontaug Pond. Killer Swedish massages at Relais & Chateaux sister property The Ocean House are a Zen bonus.

Avoid the Sunday blues: One the way back to civilization, stock up on freshly baked chocolate chunk and molasses cookies at gourmet emporium The Cooked Goose.

Read more on Fathom: Summer with the Kids in Watch Hill.

Coming in for The Landing at Harbour Island

HARBOUR ISLAND, Bahamas – If Talitha Getty had taken a wrong turn in Marrakech, she would've landed on Harbour Island. Part funk, part fabulous, and always down-to-earth and welcoming, this special island in the Bahamas has the perfect hi-lo mix for any family vacation.  

But I come to visit the nexus of the foodie action: The Landing, a sweet little boutique hotel and restaurant on the bay in Dunmore Town. Every day gets off to the right start, with lemon-ricotta pancakes. Sit by the tiny pool or under the porch to watch passersby heading for the ferries on the dock. 

Come evening, you'll want an outdoor table — complete with twinkling lights strung in the trees overhead and soft votive candlelight throughout the fragrant gardens. Bored young kids can get up and explore the terrace without upsetting the formal balance. Show up early for a drink at the cozy bar, and you'll inevitably find a Rolling Stone (Ron Wood is a regular) or India Hicks, the ever-stunning island doyenne/face of Ralph Lauren/part owner of the establishment. 

In case I’ve been underselling my love for this place, let me be clear: Dinner at The Landing would be my Death Row Meal.

The contemporary menu places a heavy emphasis on fresh produce and locally caught seafood. Mind you, fresh produce is no small feat around these parts: There are no green markets, no soil for growing, and only tiny markets that take delivery of goods from the mainland every few days. Fancy greens are at a premium, yet The Landing always manages to have the crunchiest haricots verts, the most perfect, peppery arugula salad. The "briland" (that's local speak) staples include grilled grouper fillet with roasted tomatoes, asparagus, fingerling potatoes, and pesto or local lobster with green beans, potatoes, and melted butter.  

The Landing is all about superb simplicity, from crisp, white tablecloths and laid-back atmosphere to the slight British vibe. And because the owners are parents, they just get it. That means that your child's simpler (but still stellar) pasta and homemade chocolate gelato will appear in a timely fashion and that you'll be able to enjoy your appetizers (spicy crab capellini with romaine, lime, ginger garlic, and mild jalapeno chili oil; lobster dumplings with sweet chili dipping sauce) at a leisurely pace. I’d finish off my feast with Belgian chocolate pudding — served warm with vanilla bean ice cream — or the signature Afro Head tiramisu, made of Afro Head coffee and Afro Head rum — and call a golf cart to whisk me home. Worst case scenario — or maybe best case? — you can crash upstairs in one of the twelve chic, minimalist guestrooms. It's not like you have anyplace better to go.

FIND IT

The Landing
Bay Street
Dunmore Town, Harbour Island
Bahamas 
+1-242-333-2707

Where to Go from NYC: Haute Hippie Rhinebeck

One of the best escapes 100 miles from midtown Manhattan is the village of Rhinebeck, New York — a "haute hippie" sort of place situated near the Hudson River. The town features an eclectic mix of architecture, sustainable dining, and residents (and weekenders) from all walks of life. It's a great place year-round, but summer features some of the best farmers' markets, antiques shows, and country fairs you'll find anywhere. 



HOW TO GET THERE

Amtrak runs from Penn Station to Rhinecliff-Kingston in Rhinebeck, and you can call for cabs to get around. But the best move is getting your hands on a steering wheel and driving the scenic Taconic Parkway.

WHERE TO STAY

You're not going to find a lot of five-star establishments in Rhinebeck, and that's what keeps the area feeling small and special. Get a room at the centrally located Beekman Arms (the oldest inn in America, by the way) where you'll be in striking distance of morning coffee and croissants from Bread Alone, newspapers galore, cute shops full of antiques, and Stickles, a good ol' five-and-dime store that kids adore. If you're looking for a more boutique feel, head north to Tivoli, where the Madalin Hotel has eleven newly renovated rooms by the designers of NYC's Chelsea Hotel. Old-school touches (nice innkeeper, no key cards) mix with new-school style (flat screens, WiFi), not to mention Madalin's Table, a tavern and dining room with awesome grass-fed beef burgers, seared cod, grilled vegetable pizzas, and kid's pastas du jour. There's also a wide porch where you can savor a little Sauvignon blanc and watch the world pass — very slowly — by.

WHERE TO EAT

Food (in every form) is the biggest game in town. Balance a high-end dinner at Le Petit Bistro with killer ice cream cones from Del's Dairy Creme (7775 Albany Post Road) where $2 still buys an enormous swirl of soft-serve goodness. Everything in town is kid-friendly, but the highlight for all ages is Gigi's Trattoria, where a bustling outdoor patio, homemade butternut squash gnocchi, and "skizzas" (thin-crust pizzas in unique combinations such as porchetta with fennel salami, red onion, tomato, and mozzarella) make for a mellow evening.

More Italian goodness happens at Mercato Osteria & Enoteca in nearby Red Hook. There's a vaguely Tuscan ambiance and a blackboard of the day's farm fresh specials. Meals are lovingly prepared by seventh-generation pasta man Francesco Buitoni, who incorporates wild leeks and sweet sausage from nearby Northwind Farms with spectacularly fresh fish and risottos (wild mushroom, smoked salmon, asparagus). Save room for the flourless chocolate cake.

Other great foodie bets in the vicinity: The Local, chef Wes Dier's latest "eclectic New American" addition to the community (high marks for the phyllo-wrapped Coach Farm goat cheese with Sky Farm lettuces, fig jam, onions, and crostini); Osaka, for steaming steak terikayi dinners that will delight kids; and Garden Street Cafe at Rhinebeck Health Foods (24 Garden Street), for a picnic of "Avocado Supreme" sandwiches and a serious vegan vibe.

WHAT TO DO

Bard College's SummerScape series offers a fantastic mix of opera, dance, theater, and film. Kids will love the sometimes freaky acts (acrobats, aerialists) in the glittering Spiegel Tent.

Spend a Saturday or Sunday checking out the bi-planes at the Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome (June through October 16th). Peep automobiles and motorcycles from the golden "barnstorming" era of aviation, and watch an air show of sky-high twists and turns — complete with flying aces and billowing neck scarves. After watching planes swoop, you'll want to head to Wilderstein, an immense Queen Anne style country house-turned-museum surrounded by walking trails. If possible, plan your trip around the Dutchess County Fair, an extravaganza of fried dough and rides that happens in late August. Little kids can go nuts with bumper cars and livestock competitions, strolling performers and live bands.

WHERE TO SHOP

There are a lot of stylish ex-city folk around, and Rhinebeck doesn't disappoint in the retail arena. No Sugar has sweet separates for little kiddies from brands like 3 Pommes and 7AM, as well as unique pieces for grown-ups. For a carefully edited selection of things for the home visit Hammertown (conveniently located next door to Gigi's Trattoria). Peruse reading material and music at Oblong Books, a classic book shop hub with meaningful staff picks and readings by local authors. Paper Trail stocks cards and gifts by small letterpress printers from across the country. There will be no shortage of souvenirs.

FOR YOUR BEDSIDE TABLE


Edible Hudson
Hudson Valley Magazine