Christina Ohly Evans 6/20/21 Christina Ohly Evans 6/20/21

Welcome to Napa 2.0 — The New Provence

If your dreams of spending the summer in the Mediterranean feel a little too complicated this year, look to Napa, which is fast becoming the New Provence. Contributing editor Christina Ohly has a look at the area's best new offerings.

The pool at Solage. Photo courtesy of Solage, Auberge Resorts Collection.

NAPA VALLEY — Napa Valley — long an escape for oenophiles and foodies alike — is coming back from a year like no other. Between pandemic shut-downs and devastating wildfires, the area literally got its ass kicked. But in a triumph of human resilience as well as natural regrowth, this part of California’s wine country has come back, and it’s better than ever.

I hadn’t traveled at all during the pandemic and decided that this part of the country — with its easy access from San Francisco International Airport — was perfect for my first foray back into a world outside my Northeast comfort zone. What I found was an area marred (in places) by the Glass Fire, but one that has bounced back to set visitors at ease, provide delicious meals and spa experiences, and access to some of the finest vineyards in the world. Add to that sumptuous new hotel rooms, farm-fresh cuisine, and scenic hikes and biking, and the 30-mile stretch that is Napa Valley is looking like a fail-safe bet for summer.

For many, the allure of the Med will remain irresistible, but for others still anxious about travel, a comparable experience in Napa Valley — with zero hassle! — will more than make up for the missed aperitivo. And take heart! Competitive bocce abounds here as well.

All things considered, we're calling Napa the New Provence.

Oxbow Public Market. Photo by Pavia Rosati.

First Stop: Napa

The “city” of Napa doesn’t typically get a lot of love, as people tend to bypass it for the quainter towns of Calistoga, St. Helena, and Yountville. But it’s absolutely worth stopping for at least a day. Oxbow Public Market, brimming with everything from wood-fired pizzas to local cheeses, ice cream, and olive oil, to spices from around the globe, is a gastronome’s true north.

Next door to Oxbow is CIA at Copia, the Culinary Institute of America’s newest campus, which offers hands-on cooking classes, boot camps, and private lessons, many in partnership with America’s Test Kitchen. If you’d rather let the pros cook, have a meal at The Grove at Copia, where the meal is locally inspired (of course). For a truly highbrow meal, Le Petit Chef is a 3D dining experience inspired by Marco Polo’s travels along the Silk Road. Another must for curious foodies is The Chuck Williams Culinary Arts Museum on the top floor, which displays the mind-blowingly extensive collection of more than 4,000 kitchen tools, accessories, and serving ware pieces amassed by the Williams-Sonoma founder. (Le Petit Chef and the museum are currently closed, but will reopen.)

A terrific addition to the lodging scene in downtown Napa is R-INN, a converted historic building reimagined as a sleek boutique hotel. I recommend one of the independently-owned property’s five spacious loft suites, complete with 20’ ceilings, poured concrete floors, and vibrant artwork. This being northern California, the WiFi, enormous flatscreen TVs, Bluetooth speaker system — and even the coffee maker — are all state of the art, and the setting is perfect for those dwindling work from home days.

Auberge du Soleil at twilight. Photo courtesy of Auberge du Soleil, Auberge Resorts Collection.

The spa at Auberge du Soleil. Photo courtesy of Auberge du Soleil, Auberge Resorts Collection.

Chilling at Auberge du Soleil. Photo by Christina Ohly.

Heading North: Yountville & Rutherford

Long considered the culinary capital of Napa Valley, the town hangs onto the title with its many Michelin starred establishments — World’s Best chart-topper French Laundry, Mustards Grill, and Bistro Jeanty among them — but it was Ad Hoc that stole my heart during my brief visit. The casual branch of chef Thomas Keller’s empire, Ad Hoc serves killer (yet elevated, of course) mac ‘n’ cheese and buckets of fried chicken — with wine pairings — that make for a perfect picnic in the gorgeous surroundings.

Moving northward, Auberge du Soleil in Rutherford still reigns as the grande dame of the hotel scene out here. This was my first post-vaccination hotel stay, and it proved a completely luxurious, restorative escape. Our airy, 1,200-square-foot Valley View suite, with its sprawling terrace overlooking olive groves and the Myacamas Mountains beyond, was perfect for my teenage daughter and I to spread out and work/online school. The 50 rooms and suites have been recently refreshed and a neutral palette pervades, with crisp linens and thick, fluffy robes. (Oh, how I've missed such lovely hotel amenities.) Fully stocked refrigerators, a next-level team of estheticians at the tranquil spa, and a perfectly prepared cheeseburger served poolside were among the highlights of our stay.

Also of note is the gym, which features indoor and outdoor equipment to maximize valley views. After a 30-minute workout followed by iced tea at the redesigned pool area (think Il Pelicano meets St. Barths, with flowy canvas and stripy chaise lounges), I felt as though I’d been to Provence for two days. What enhanced my stay were the excellent team of concierges who arranged for our use of Auberge’s fleet of Mercedes — SUVs and Cali-perfect convertibles — and pointed us in the direction of restaurants like Press in nearby St. Helena and the iconic Oakville Grocery for prosciutto and brie sandwiches for the road. The loaner vehicles also enabled us to discover Carter and Co, my favorite new retail gem that specializes in artisan-produced everything in St. Helena. Come here to meet owner/artist Richard Carter and see his exquisite ceramics, along with a carefully curated selection of housewares, sustainably made deerskin jackets, local honeys, olive oil, and more.

A guest room at Solage. Photo courtesy of Solage, Auberge Resorts Collection.

Next Up: Calistoga

I have to admit, I didn’t want to leave Auberge at all, but the blow was softened by moving on to Auberge Resorts’ sister property Solage in nearby Calistoga. The hotel isn’t brand new, but everything (suites and studios included) has been refreshed over the past six months — the Covid safety protocols, the patio dining at Solbar (loved the twinkling lights), and the retro bicycles outside every room which made exploring downtown Calistoga a breeze. Any day now, Solage’s latest culinary offering, Picobar, will offer modern Mexican fare with atmospheric firepits and live music.

The feeling at Solage is sleek and contemporary (white pervades and rooms are minimalist chic), and it’s all just a bit more casual than at Auberge. I was there mid-week and there were no kids, but I can imagine the hotel’s enormous central pool (with swimming lessons) is a big draw for families at weekends. The team has, however, figured it out so that you never have to see anyone. Quiet places abound throughout the Bathhouse spa and geothermal soaking pools area. Overall, I felt as though I’d been transported to a Zen place with just the right amount of activity. In addition to the plunge pools (ranging from icily invigorating to seriously hot), I highly recommend a three-part, detoxifying mud bath. Calistoga has long been known for these curative slatherings (and I must admit, I wasn’t a buyer at first) and Solage’s “mud bar” was fantastic: I could feel the toxins from the last fifteen months leaving my body. (I won’t miss them!) Next time, I am going back for The Starlight spa experience where you soak and sip outside under the stars, after everyone else has gone.

The pool (and the view) at Indian Springs. Photo courtesy of Indian Springs Resort and Spa.

The entrance to the spa at Indian Springs. Photo by Christina Ohly.

Also of note is Indian Springs Resort and Spa just around the corner from Solage. A historic resort with a jaw-dropping Olympic-sized pool, Indian Springs is something a cult classic, with its Mission Revival main building (Fun fact: It was originally intended as the site of Stanford University) and sweet bungalows and cottages that attract families and couples alike. The mud bath here is especially low-fi and effective. Funky and fabulous (it has a Buddha Pond!), this is one for spa-goers looking for a slightly kitschy touch — and a meal at the buzzy-chic Sam’s Social Club, where breakfasts include a salad of maitake mushrooms, kale, poached egg, and farro in a shallot vinaigrette. This is, after all, NorCal.

In other Calistoga news, the Four Seasons Resort and Residences Napa Valley, located literally across the road from Solage, is set for a late summer opening. Its 85 spacious guest rooms will bring more farmhouse chic to an area already in very high demand.

Alila Napa Valley. Photo by Christina Ohly.

The best meal of the trip at Acacia House. Photos by Christina Ohly.

The vineyard views from the room at Alila Napa Valley. Photo courtesy of Alila Napa Valley

More Spectacular Settings

One of the best area openings/re-launches is the Alila Napa Valley in St. Helena, which originally opened in 2017 as Las Alcobas, the sister hotel to the fantastic boutique hotel of the same name in Mexico City. The re-imagined property with 68 guest rooms and seven suites offers the ultimate mix of historic and contemporary luxury. The original Acacia House built in 1905 now has six guest room and a restaurant by noted chef San Francisco Chris Consentino. The single most memorable meal I ate during this trip was at Acacia House: a “simple” chicken salad and a club sandwich with fries, the best we’d ever tasted. Anywhere. The rooms, by noted hotel design firm Yabu Pushelberg, retain a sleek vibe, with lots of glass, metal and stone finishes, and sweeping views of the vineyard in the backyard. The new Alila Spa is set in a light-filled barn, and daily yoga classes and TRX fitness equipment are all part of the package.

Slightly further afield — and technically in Sonoma County but so worth a detour — is the stunning new Montage Healdsburg, with 130 Bungalow rooms and 34 spacious suites. The basic room category starts at 600 square feet, with a three-bedroom Guest House stretching to 4,600 square feet, complete with three bedrooms, a fully stocked kitchen, and a hot tub.

Dining outdoors at Montage Healdsburg. Photo by Christian Horan / courtesy of Montage Healdsburg.

Hazel Hill restaurant. Photo by Christian Horan / courtesy of Montage Healdsburg.

A guest house at Montage Healdsburg. Photo by Christian Horan / courtesy of Montage Healdsburg.

You get the feeling that no expense has been spared. Warm wood and natural stone finishes are found throughout, as are fire features and a stunning, infinity-edge, adults-only pool. Of special note is the expansive spa with views of the Alexander Valley, Yoga Among the Vines classes, and special treatments like a Harvest Honey Ginger Infusion Ritual (for moisturizing and immunity boosting) and a California Wildflower Ritual that includes healing poultices and vibrational technology. The next-level fitness center full of TechnoGym equipment and Peloton bikes is ideal for peaceful workout, so between the spa and gym, plan to spend a full day here if you are a remotely sporty fitness type.

And the food! Montage Healdsburg options include Hazel Hill, which serves a fusion of French and Northern California cuisines and a seasonal vegan menu. The wine list is world-class, with many bottles from Aperture Cellars, the renown winery next door. Convivial Scout Bar at the heart of the resort is the spot for casual drinks and a menu that ranges from caviar to double-patty burgers. An on-site grab-and-go market, the Healdsburg Country Store, offers frothy cappuccinos, wraps, and chocolate fudge brownies. Just one more reason to never leave this gorgeous landscape.

Looking Ahead to Autumn

One of the fall’s most anticipated openings is Stanly Ranch, a 712-year-old historic property poised to open in November ten minutes from the town of Napa, with 135 cottage suites and its own vineyard. Like the other neighboring Auberge Resorts Collection properties, Stanly Ranch will focus on a world-class spa and farm-to-fork cuisine led by chef Perfecte Rocher, with much of the produce coming from the surrounding land. A grand pool with an adjacent Basin Bar will be the place for evening snacks and wine tastings, while The Larder will be the breakfast, lunch, and dinner hub.

For hefty doses of lavender and a practically Provençal experience, you’ll want to book now. The only downside to visiting Napa Valley (that I can see) is that rooms are becoming increasingly hard to come by. Which may not be surprising, as this hardly undiscovered special, vibrant part of California only gets more special and vibrant with time.

Guest User 9/18/17 Guest User 9/18/17

Everything You Need to Know to Have a Perfect Beach Vacation in Jose Ignacio, Uruguay

While Jose Ignacio is hardly a travel secret anymore, it's still low-key enough to feel like an insider's destination. Contributing editor Christina Ohly reveals everything Fathom readers could ever need to know about how to have a perfect beach trip to Uruguay.

JOSE IGNACIO, Uruguay – Old Montauk meets Malibu in Jose Ignacio and the coastal towns surrounding Punta del Este in Southeastern Uruguay. Here you'll find everything from surf shacks to gauchos in traditional garb, not to mention delicious communal asados (barbecues) set on wide Atlantic beaches. Punta del Este serves as an entry point to a series of lovely fishing villages and quieter inland destinations such as Garzón, the Deco throwback set amongst verdant, rolling hills that is home to famed Argentine chef Francis Mallman's hotel and restaurant, Garzon.

THE SCENE

For beach chic with an artisanal vibe, this area is impossible to beat. Jose Ignacio is hardly a travel secret anymore, but the destination is only going to get more and more popular. So magical is the entire scene that you should just book your trip now.

And although this gets tossed around like a bad travel brochure cliche, there truly is something for everyone in this part of the world. For the avid, athletic types, there's horseback riding, biking, and invigorating swims. For the chaise lounger, there's poolside capriroskas (a cocktail borrowed from neighboring Brazil), endless massages, and long lunches at La Huella (as seen in Michelle Lehman's Just Back from Jose Ignacio, and I agree wholeheartedly with her ringing endorsement of this special spot by the sea).

Kids of all ages are enchanted, too, by the rugged mix of cowboy culture (horseback riding is accessible to all), polo ponies (in the high season which lasts the few, short weeks between Christmas and mid-January), and swims in the 20-meter Absolute Nero stone pools that have twinkling under water "constellations" (an added bonus at all Vik hotels.)

Lunch at Fish Market. Photo by Christina Ohly.

LAY OF THE LAND

After landing in either Montevideo or Punta del Este, head straight for the laid-back village of Jose Ignacio. You'll pass the picturesque 1877 lighthouse and the stunningly simple mid-century modern beach homes owned by the likes of Shakira and Argentine hotelier Alan Faena.

Drive along the coastline (preferably in an open-top Jeep) through the villages of La Barra, El Chorro, Punta Pedras, and Manantiales. Plan on spending a few hours in Manantiales to visit Atchugarry Foundation, the workshop of master sculptor/local hero Pablo Atchugarry and also to stock up on beach gear at the many great surf stores in the area and house décor with playful prints at Roberta Roller Rabbit. Try to come hungry, so you can have delicately fried cod sandwiches and fresh gazpacho on the whitewashed patio at stylish Fish Market (Ruta 10, km 163.5; +598-42-774-431).

Word to the wise: Before you set off on any expedition, you should know that there aren't many petrol stations or cash machines in this part of the world. You'll want to stock up on gas and pesos at the Ancap at the roundabout in Jose Ignacio before heading too far off the beaten path.

IF YOU ONLY DO ONE THING

Go Horseback Riding
I hadn't been on a horse in 20+ years and had no interest in saddling up again. Yet the charming gauchos (who smile sweetly and speak no English) and the spectacular scenery made this a memorable activity for our entire family — my husband, myself, and my tween son and daughter.

An excursion is easy to arrange because riding is included at many hotels — Estancia Vik, Casa Suaya, and Garzon among them. Horses are typically kept on property and thus don't have to be booked days in advance. The docile breed of Uruguayan horses seem comfortable with riders of all (read: zero) ability, which made for relaxing trail rides through diverse, meadow-filled terrain.

The impressive architecture at Playa Vik. Photos by Christina Ohly.

WHERE TO STAY

You'll notice a lot of Vik hotels in this list. For good reason: Team Vik excels at creating innovative, cool, stunning places you'll never want to leave.

Estancia Vik
Camino Eugenio Sainz Martínez; +598-94-60-5212 / +598-94-60-5314
Set on 4,000 stunning acres of pasture and gently rolling hills, this is a house stay unlike any other. Each of the 12 suites were designed by a contemporary Uruguayan artist, giving the estancia the feel a modern museum housed in a stunning, authentic villa. No detail is overlooked, and the kind staff — including the resident gauchos — look after restaurant bookings, trail rides, and spa treatments. An eco-friendly emphasis and a killer Saturday night asado are but a few of the many lovely bonuses.

Playa Vik
Calle Los Cisnes and Calle Los Horneros; +598-94-60-5212 / +598-94-60-5314
The Vik group's original beach property has an extremely modernist feel, all glass facades, fire pits, and artwork, most notably a James Turrell light installation and a Zaha Hadid-designed table in the main house. Especially impressive is the 75-meter cantilevered swimming pool that seems to jut out over the sea, to say nothing for the grass-topped villas designed by starchitect Carlos Ott. In other words, the entire place is nothing if not striking and unique.

Bahia Vik
+598-94-60-5212 / +598-94-60-5314
Set to open in winter 2014 in time for high season, the hotel features contemporary Uruguayan art, separate swimming pools for kids and adults, and environmentally friendly casitas that are understated yet luxurious at the same time. Located directly on the beach, Bahia guests can horseback ride at the nearby Estancia property or stroll down the dunes for a perfectly grilled hamburger or fresh sushi at the Vik's La Susana restaurant.

Posada del Faro
Luis E. Schickendantz and Del Timonel; +598-44-862-110
A relatively affordable option with rooms facing a small pool and Jose Ignacio bay in the distance.

Vintage rules. Photos courtesy of Casa Zinc.

Casa Zinc
Calle 9 and Carlos Gardel, La Barra; +598-99-620-066 / +598-42-773-003
A small hotel in the village of La Barra that will appeal to lovers of vintage furniture and intimate environments. Owner Aaron Hojman has amassed a charming collection of local finds mixed with flea market treasures from the UK and beyond.

Casa Suaya
Ruta 10, km 185.5; +54-11-4771-1667 / +598-44-862-750
A lovely and simple boutique bolthole with a charming boho feel. Accommodations include two bedroom suites (bonus for families), Butia restaurant, a large pool, and horseback riding.

Garzon
Costa Jose Ignacio and La Capilla, Garzón; +598-44-102-811
An incredibly special inn (one of Fathom's World's Most Romantic Hotels) run by chef extraordinaire Francis Mallman that draws an international foodie crowd for meals and overnight stays in the give guest rooms centered on an open courtyard and pool. Diners feast outside or in the intimate dining room on beautiful meat, fish, and vegetables prepared on a massive iron grill using a traditional infernillo technique. (Mallman is world-renown for his grilling style.)

Lunch is served at La Susana. Photos courtesy of La Susana.

WHERE TO EAT

The question is where not to eat, as the food – all kinds of cuisines and at all price points – is just so good.

La Caracola
Address emailed after booking; +598-94-223-015
A beach club on a small island from the folks behind local favorite La Huella. You have to take a private boat to get here, and your just rewards are wonderful snacks, light seafood meals, and cleric, a white wine sangria. The fee is $180 per day, and you need to book well in advance.

Marismo
Ruta 10, km 185; +598-42-486-2273
A special, candle-lit spot that can be difficult to find in the dark but is worth the journey for braised lamb and the grilled catch of the day. The atmosphere is magical. Book well in advance.

La Susana
Ruta 10, km 182.5; +598-44-862-823 / +598-95-192-555
A casual beach club and restaurant that serves everything from grilled snapper and pizzas to Norwegian vodka produced by the Vik family. A festive bamboo bar in the sand draws all kinds. Children frolick freely, larger groups spread out, and the party lasts well into the night.

La Olada
Ruta 10, km 181.5; +598-44-862-745 / +598-99-337-908
Soft candlelight sets the stage for a delicious meal of fresh salads, pastas, and grilled meats at this quiet spot inland. Ubiquitous wood-fired pizzas make for delicious appetizers, and the whole place feel very homey in the best possible way. (Those are the owner's dog and cat meandering about.)

La Huella
Calle de Los Cisnes; +598-44-862-279
Widely regarded as a gastronomic mecca, the beachside spot deserves its reputation and should be everyone's first stop. The setting is magical — soft music, neutral colored wood decks, and candlelight set the scene by night — as are the crispy octopus and line-caught sea bass. Creative sushi dishes, wood-fired pizzas, and housemade dulce de leche ice cream were other consistent winners And I should know, because I literally ate seven meals in a row here.

Almacen el Palmar
Plaza de Jose Ignacio; +598-44-862-102
One of my favorite meals in Uruguay. From delicious poppy seed rolls with tapenade to perfectly grilled fish and Provençal pastas by gregarious chef Jean Paul Bondoux, who wanders freely around the patio and dining room. Almacen is an all-day affair, with freshly baked croissants and breads available in the morning and wonderful cheeses in the adjacent deli throughout the day. Dinner, served indoors on the lovely, canopied outdoor patio, is a must.

Namm
Ruta 10, km 185; +598-486-2526
I am ever the fan of Japanese food, and this place serves the freshest sushi (and grilled meats) I've had anywhere. The wooden bungalow setting adds to the overall experience.

Beach chic. Photo courtesy of El Canuto.

WHERE TO SHOP

Santas Negras
Camino Eugenio Saiz Martinez and Los Lobos; +598-44-862-262
The mid-century modern, two-story boutique just outside town has been lovingly curated by Paula Martini (wife of La Huella owner Martin Pittaluga) and Patricia Torres, who filled it with vintage furniture, decorative objects, featherweight cashmere sweaters, and playful jewelry that works well at the casual, evening barbecue parties they host out back. Don't miss the atmospheric café patio for delicious cappuccinos, capirinhinas, and panini.

Mutate
Café de la Place (in front of Plaza Jose Ignacio); +598-44-862-703
Stocks great vintage and designer clothing for men and women.

El Canuto
Calle de Los Cisnes; +598-44-862-028
The place for caftans, lingerie, and other beach basics.

Alium
Costa Jose Ignacio, Garzón; +598-99-128-672
A great design-led shop further inland in Garzón.

Talabarteria Benitez
Calle Maldonado and Calle 25 de Agosto, San Carlos; no phone.
The old-school gaucho supply shop in the village of San Carlos is the place to source a wide assortment of leather chaps and silver adornments.

The Jose Ignacio Supermarket
I love to go to the grocery store to take in the local color, and this one sells everything: beach basics (chips and salty snacks), refined deli fare, meats, cheeses, fruits, and vegetables.

WHAT YOU'LL KNOW ON THE LAST DAY THAT YOU WISH YOU HAD KNOWN ON THE FIRST

Bring Cash — and Lots of It
This is not neighboring Argentina where everything is cheap. It's a relatively pricey area with very few cash machines. US dollars are generally welcome.

Pack Light — Really Light
Think haute-hippie hideaway, where high season temperatures can soar past 100 degrees and there is no need for anything fancy. I overpacked by a wide margin and could have made do with a bathing suit, sarong, T-shirt, shorts, and sneakers (mandatory for horseback riding).

Take Great Care When Booking Restaurants
You don't want to miss a meal in Uruguay. The restaurants and cafes are fantastic — at all price points. Area specialties include delicious grilled fish, sushi and ceviches, steak (of course), and housemade helado (ice cream). Places book well in advance — especially hotspots like La Huella, Garzon, and Marismo. Not that you're at risk of going hungry, considering how many under-the-radar gems you'll find everywhere. Among my favorites were La Olada, Parador al Almacen, Namm, and La Susana — all casual and festive, serving traditional, often wood-fired fare. This is the kind of food and drink that makes everyone happy, so book in advance if you can.

HOW TO GET THERE

It's very easy from the United States, with direct flights to Buenos Aires International Airport (EZE) on both American Airlines and Aerolineas Argentinas. You'll have to transfer to BA's smaller airport, Jorge Newbery (AEP),which can be a pain, especially if there's traffic, to catch a flight to Punta Del Este (PDE) on Aerolineas Argentinas, Pluna, or Buquebus. The drive to Jose Ignacio from Punta Del Este is approximately 45 minutes.

Another option is flying into Carrasco International Airport (MVD) in Montevideo, the capital of Uruguay, via Miami on American Airlines. The drive to Jose Ignacio is approximately 90 minutes, and rental cars must be booked well in advance.

VISAS

While there are no visa requirements for either Argentina or Uruguay, you will need to pre-pay a reciprocity fee if you travel through Argentina.

WHEN TO GO

I can't imagine there is a wrong time to go to Uruguay, but spring and fall — shoulder seasons leading into winter and summer — are completely delightful. With bright blue skies, temperatures averaging in the mid-70s, and an absence of crowds, March and April are the perfect times to explore — and to secure bookings at all of the area's stellar restaurants.
The winter holidays bring throngs from Argentina and Brazil, but nothing feels over-run, as there are no glitzy mega hotels catering to the St. Tropez club set. That said, these people like to party — very late into the night — so it's all about invitations to house parties and elaborate asados feasts of local beef (the best I've ever tasted — period), assorted vegetables, and locally caught corvina negra (white drum fish).

Guest User 9/18/17 Guest User 9/18/17

Maine at Its Beachy, Old-School, Down-Home Best

Sometimes you need an escape from the mundane — and sometimes that escape can bring you back to another decade. The Black Point Inn is the perfect New England getaway when you're feeling nostalgic for the 1930s. Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly shows us why this little-known Maine town is the perfect chill spot for any age.

PROUT'S NECK, Maine – I was in Prout's Neck, a scenic part of coastal Maine, for a brief summer getaway from NYC, and it might just be my new New England favorite spot. First and foremost is ease of use: Prout's Neck is exactly eleven miles — a twenty-minute drive — from the manageable Portland JetPort (PWM) which is served by Delta and JetBlue, among other airlines. While Maine is, by definition, "wicked far" from virtually anywhere, this bucolic area is easily accessible and feels an entire, old-school world away.

CHECKING IN

Overview

Black Point Inn is a throwback to another era — one when dark and stormy cocktails were savored on sweeping porches overlooking a rugged Atlantic coastline. Time has stopped here — in the best possible way — and the historical 25-room inn still feels like someone's grand guesthouse — albeit one straight of out an Edith Wharton or Henry James novel.

The shingled beachside escape was built in the 1870s and continues to be a central meeting point for locals and visitors alike. It is now owned by a consortium of the town's residents and is overseen by the Migis Hotel Group, a local Maine management company, and balances a classic, intimate atmosphere with a few state-of-the-art updates (WiFi, flat-screen TVs, and an unexpectedly well-equipped gym). The rooms and suites are spacious, and many have breathtaking views of the beaches on three sides of the property, as well as the lushly landscaped gardens. The shingle-style hotel has been lovingly restored, right down to the sun porch, where guests gather for afternoon tea (with freshly baked cookies), traditional board games, and The New York Times. This is the quintessential Down East inn, and one where kind and attentive service make for a truly delightful stay.

Claim to Fame

The Inn has several claims to fame, but chief among them are the spectacular sunsets overlooking Sand Dollar Beach. From a perch at one of the outside tables at the Chart Room, you can sip local Shipyard Summer Ale or a glass of rosè and feast on twin lobsters and plates of Damiriscotta oysters and watch the brilliant orange and red hues yield to a starry night sky.

Another special touch that Black Point Inn affords is access — to everything. Kind concierges will arrange a round of golf at the nearby Prout's Neck Country Club or a morning of tennis — on clay, natch. Guests at the Inn have unique access to Winslow Homer's studio just up the road. A stay here makes one feel like a well-connected insider.

The Food

Breakfast on the porch overlooking the sea is a total highlight, and the helpful servers are happy to provide everything: real oatmeal with brown sugar, blueberry pancakes, healthy egg white omelets. Delicious, red bliss potato hash browns and thick-cut bacon make this feel like a total holiday. The warm sun at your back only adds to the overall idyllic effect.

Dinner in The Chart Room is casual, with offerings like wedge salads, shrimp cocktail, and perfect burgers, or slightly more formal in The Point Restaurant. I love a restaurant with traditional white tablecloths, fresh seafood chowder, and just-picked corn and tomatoes that serves supper between six and eight p.m. nightly. You're so relaxed, that's bedtime anyway.

Room with a View

There are 25 rooms in various categories located in the historic shingle-style building, many with ocean or bay views, terraces, and sweet wicker furniture. Inter-connecting rooms work well for families, while Spinnaker Suites and Commodore's Chambers offer enormous, well-appointed bathrooms and separate sitting areas. The furnishing are Ye Olde New England — a mix of antiques and replicas — that are comfortable and in keeping with the overall aesthetic. This is not a minimalist's dream scenario, but it makes for a cosseting stay. Room 215 was particularly lovely and featured an enormous living room, a bedroom with two queen beds, and unparalleled views of July 4th fireworks in the distance.

This Place Is Perfect For

A huge dose of New England charm. It's also perfect for anyone who can't tolerate long car rides, but wants to feel transported to another, more quaint place and time. For anyone who likes to play Scrabble, read by a roaring fire, and eat oyster crackers, the Black Point Inn is pretty much your Nirvana.

But Not So Perfect For

Modernists, minimalists, or anyone that doesn't appreciate a bit of old-school, chintzy cool. Black Point Inn could be construed as fusty, but I prefer to think of it as old-world glamorous.

CHECKING OUT

Neighborhood Vibe

Prout's Neck is comprised primarily of the beautiful weekend homes of Boston, Philadelphia, and New York contingents, so it feels quiet and insular, but in a good way. Children ride their bikes to the Yacht Club for Opti sailing lessons, and everyone knows each other at the sweet post office and the general store. Be sure to take one of the Inn's complimentary bikes for a cruise around the larger area of Scarborough and the lilac- and hydrangea-lined lanes.

What to Do Nearby

Don't miss the one-and-a-half-mile Cliff Walk that starts just steps away from the inn and takes you along the dramatic, craggy rocks that were painted by area resident, Winslow Homer. The walk culminates at the simple studio where he lived and painted most of his life and from which you can see the changing colors of the blue-green sea.

Nearby Portland is a happening town, and the Old Port District is worth a detour for the cute shops and galleries that line the cobblestone streets. The world-class Portland Museum of Art houses many of Homer's great works, and the historic Wadsworth-Longfellow House makes for a great afternoon as well.

Foodies will be in heaven at the Eventide Oyster Co., where exquisite lobster rolls with brown butter vinaigrette and a clam bake-for-one (steamers, mussels, lobster tail, salt pork, and hard-boiled egg served within seaweed) are pure bliss.

Good to Know

Make time for both the saltwater pool (restorative) and sea kayaking. In-room massages are another plus. The upscale sandwiches at the General Store just down Black Point Road make for a refined picnic.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

How to Get Here

Fly: Prout's Neck is a twenty-minute drive from the Portland International JetPort (PWM), which is served by Delta and JetBlue, among others.

Find It

Black Point Inn
510 Black Point Road
Prout's Neck, Scarborough, Maine 04074
+1-207-883-2500
info@blackpointinn.com

Guest User 9/17/17 Guest User 9/17/17

Pretty Little Secret: A Chic Bahamas Retreat

When contributing editor Christina Ohly discovers the Dunmore, she realizes that Harbour Island in the Bahamas is the destination that keeps on giving.

HARBOUR ISLAND, Bahamas – Harbour Island is the three-mile long haven of powder-fine pink sand and crystal clear turquoise waters that's remained relatively unchanged over the years. The Landing (which I wrote about on Fathom) serves as the epicenter for delicious meals and local gossip. The Rock House is the stylish spot for feasting poolside on locally caught lobster. Service around here is reliably slow, and that's actually part of the charm. And because the only way to get to the island is through a series of planes, cars, boats, and golf carts, only truly committed travelers end up here. Everyone else stays away. In short, the island is a little slice of heaven where you can truly escape the pace of modern life.

One thing has changed since my last visit in 2010: the revamping of The Dunmore, a beach club-cum-boutique hotel. Founded as a members-only club in 1963, it opened to the public in the 1980s and was renovated and reopened under new management in 2010. The stylish oasis is comprised of a laid-back communal sitting area, sixteen cheerful guest cottages designed by Nassau-based Amanda Lindroth, lovely dining and bar areas, and a glamorous pool deck that just screams, "Slim Aarons in Palm Beach."

As I walked around, captivated by the bougainvillea and night jasmine lining the lush walkways, I couldn't figure out why I had never heard of this special place. (All I do when I travel is look for cool things.)

It's because no one who visits wants to talk about it. They want to save it for themselves.

Being at Dunmore feels like being at someone's elegant island house party. The scene is a sea of white and aqua cabanas, billowing curtains, vintage rattan, and gently swirling ceiling fans. It's all best enjoyed with a fruity cocktail in hand.

The holiday crowd is a colorful mix of gay, straight, and Southern types drawn to the genteel pace. Children are tolerated at lunch, but this is most definitely a spot for discerning couples looking for peace and quiet.

I followed a friend's recommendation to have drinks at the Dunmore and was thereafter hooked for almost every meal. The patio dining area can be accessed from the beautiful beach below, and I walked over every day from my perch at the Pink Sands Resort (also covered on Fathom — clearly, we have a thing for Harbour Island) for a small escape into another era. Lunches are served in an airy outdoor setting. The menu is filled with exactly the kind of food I love to eat after a strenuous morning spent doing nothing at all: enormous salads with grilled grouper, local ceviches with citrus and ginger, delicate conch fritters, breadfruit fish tacos, and mountains of crispy French fries. (Why do fries taste better at the beach?)

Dinners are no less fantastic, set in an intimate dining room with vintage sailing photographs, decorative shells, and simple hanging lanterns. The food is slightly more refined in the evening but no less delicious. Sautéed red snapper with sweet plantain-bonito mash, roasted West Indian Cornish hen with Jamaican rice ‘n' peas, and other Caribbean-inflected dishes are all incredibly fresh and creative, as were house-made chocolate doughnuts and sorbets that capped the meals.

It's the details — the John Robshaw textiles, the Celerie Kemble wicker settees, the bright pink conch shells and sea fans that add touches of color — that make Dunmore so unique. If you're looking for an understated yet elegant beach escape with a bit of history and the kindest staff both thrown in for good measure, this retreat on Harbour Island's eastern shore is just about as good as it gets.

Next time around, I'm checking in.

FIND IT

The Dunmore
Dunmore Town, Harbour Island
Bahamas
+1-242-333-2200

In a League of Its Own: Rome's New Boutique Hotel

Rome can be a total onslaught of beauty and chaos. Fathom contributor Christina Ohly finds peace in the middle of it all at a design-driven hotel near Piazza del Popolo.

CHECKING IN

Overview

Set in a stunning 19th-century villa in the heart of Rome, Palazzo Dama is the newest (and possibly best) addition to the city's chic, boutique hotel scene. Located just steps from the bustling Piazza del Popolo, and in striking distance of the Tiber River, Spanish Steps, and gardens of Villa Borghese, the 30 rooms and suites are soothing, zen oases in the middle of the city. Designy touches courtesy of architect Antonio Girardi abound. In addition to beautifully appointed, light-filled spaces — many featuring crystal chandeliers mixed with mid-century sofas, crisp white linens, and state-of-the-art bathrooms — there is also a lovely back garden with a refreshing swimming pool. This extremely rare feature puts Palazzo Dama in a different league. As does the clubby L'Autre Dame bar, which is decorated with lithographs by Andy Warhol and Picasso and serves some of the meanest aperitivos in town.

What's New

The hotel just opened in January so everything is technically new, but there are several recent additions worth noting. While not a spa hotel per se, you'll find that every kind of massage and treatment is available in-room with just a quick phone call. Fitness facilities, an afterthought at most hotels, is nicely done with high-end, air-conditioned gym machines.

The members-only club downstairs looked positively sultry when I was there, but the real claim to fame has to be the petite swimming pool. I am still marveling at how the hoteliers got city approvals for this special feature.

Best of all: endless food and beverage options. This isn't like hotel dining, but rather like dining at an extremely aristocratic friend's house. Enjoy an Aperol spritz on the stunning rooftop terrace before a meal in L'Autre Dame downstairs.

What's on Site

Resting in the lush garden, nibbling club sandwiches served by the pool, and rubbing elbows with glamorous people in the lounge makes Palazzo Dama a sybarite's dream. In addition to the L'Autre Dame bar, the refined hotel restaurant of the same name serves beautiful pastas and wonderful fresh juices in a pristine white space. The basement gym, something of a rarity in central Rome, is impressive. The WiFi is fast and free, well-stocked minibars are free, too, and the most knowledgeable, kind front office/concierge team in town (Andrea and Gianmarco in particular) will cheerfully book you in at the the best restaurants, arrange car transfers, organize cooking classes, and reserve after-hours tours of nearby churches and museums.

The Food

Breakfast is served in the exquisite L'Autre Dame restaurant, which takes on a more relaxed atmosphere and soundtrack in the morning hours. It truly feels like eating in a laid-back, Michelin-star restaurant — and one with an expansive buffet that includes meats, cheeses, fruit and cereals, as well as an endless array of healthy juices and eggs made to order.

Lunch is outstanding as well — especially when served under an umbrella at one of the bistro tables by the pool. Simple sandwiches, burgers, and elaborate pastas are all possibilities. The kitchen will gladly make you whatever you'd like to eat, 24/7.

In the Room

Designer Antonio Girardi left his mark at the ultra-hip D.O.M. Hotel Roma (for the same owners). It has a similar feel: midcentury furnishings swathed in tasteful fabrics in hues of navy and sea green by Loro Piana. Other touches pay homage to the palazzo's original art nouveau finishes and marble mosaics, but the rooms also incorporate clean lines, Venini glass fixtures, and modern luxuries. Tasteful flat-screen TVs, well-stocked minibars, and vintage objets d'art in rooms overlooking the pool area all make this feel like a lived-in escape, a home away from home. Some of the street-facing rooms reportedly have more noise, but I didn't notice this on my tour — immense shutters are pulled at night so that visitors can't hear a thing.

Respite from the splendid chaos of Rome.

Room with a View

My junior suite faced the pool and garden and I loved watching the afternoon crowd (a few tourists) morph into a chic cocktail set by 8 p.m.

This Place Is Perfect For

The 12+ year-old set. Palazzo Dama doesn't have a "kid" feel; it is intimate, sexy, and spare. It would make an ideal stopover on the way to a honeymoon on the Amalfi Coast, and is also perfect for a long weekend away.

But Not So Perfect For

Anyone on a budget, young travelers, or families with multiple (3+) children. There are rooms and suites that join nicely for families with older children, but this is an old, historic building that isn't well-suited to crying babies or families needing several adjoining rooms. It's ideal for teenagers who need to be in proximity (by law, I suppose), but also want separate space.

Try out the unforgettable brunch and breakfast options at the restaurant and bar.

CHECKING OUT

Neighborhood Vibe

The Piazza del Popolo area has everything a visitor could want: great restaurants, bars, shops, the Villa Borghese for long walks and great art, the Ara Pacis for culture, and some of the best straciatella gelato in Rome at Gelateria dei Gracchi.

What to Do Nearby

Take a short stroll from the hotel and you'll find national treasures, including the beautifully baroque Santa Maria in Montesanto church and the Museo dell'Ara Pacis, the Altar of the Augustan Peace that dates from 13 B.C. and is now housed in a sleek Richard Meier-designed space.

The area has wonderful shops including those of the larger luxury brands (the Hogan sneaker store here is the world's best; ask for things not on display) and niche Roman finds as well. One of my favorites, Artisanal Cornucopia on the sweet Via dell'Oca, is the ultimate Mediterranean-inspired concept shop and features beautiful, beachy bags by Istanbul-based designer Misela, statement-making/uber-cool jewelery by Roman designer Benedetta Bruzziches, and much more. Ask owner Elif Sallorenzo for tips — she is a font of information about not only the store's curated collections, but also about the best hidden bars and under-the-radar restaurants.

On the food front, you'll be spoiled for choice in this area of town. You can do no better than a dimly lit dinner at the hotel's L'Autre Dame. For something a bit less formal, try Da Bolognese or Rosati (Piazza del Popolo, 5a), both frequented by well-heeled tourists — but I love them anyway for solid pastas and waiters in crisp, white jackets. Best of all, however, might be drinks at the elegant Hotel Locarno. Be sure to ask for seating in the magical garden. A drink or a light lunch in the Hotel de Russie garden just around the corner runs a very close second.

Good to Know

The hotel is just nine miles from Rome's Ciampino Airport and it was, I swear, the most scenic ride I've ever had to an airport. The trip takes you over cobblestone streets, under viaducts, and through lush neighborhoods. I felt like Hadrian.

Suite view of Roman architecture and blue skies.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

How to Get There

Rome Fiumicino Airport is 45 minutes from the hotel and is served by American Airlines, Delta, and Alitalia. In-country flights also depart from this airport, and many to the rest of Europe (British Airways) as well.

BOOK IT

Rates start from $348. Click here for reservations.

Guest User 11/15/16 Guest User 11/15/16

The Sweet Life in London's Best — and Craziest! — Mega-Suites

Hotel maven Christina Ohly fills us in on London suites fit for the queen.

LONDON – Whether you're traveling with a large posse or just want to live like a potentate, book one of these sprawling, amenity-laden suites at London's top hotels for a stay to remember. Bring your checkbook — or preferably someone else's. And note that although we list prices, hotel rates always fluctuate. Though you know what they say: If you have to ask what it costs...

The Apartment Suite at The Connaught

Location: Mayfair

The Digs: Situated on the hotel's top floor and designed by David Collins Studio, the stately study in soothing blue tones has a working wood-burning marble fireplace, a double-height sitting room, and a vast library.

The Wow Factor: Michelin-star chef Hélène Darroze will create menus for your bespoke, in-room dinner party.

USP: The Champagne Room downstairs and the ability to have the best fashions – Lanvin, Balenciaga, Christian Louboutin – placed in your dressing room prior to arrival are all pluses.

The Spend: from $16,959

The Manor House Suite at Rosewood London

Location: High Holborn

The Digs: A 1,991 square foot Zen sanctuary designed by Tony Chi. It’s about light-filled sitting spaces, neutral finishes, king-sized beds with Rivolta Carmignani Italian linens, and a dedicated champagne fridge.

Wow Factors: The suite can be booked with five adjoining rooms to create an entire Manor House Wing, with a private entrance on High Holborn.

USP: The sprawling, sumptuous suite has its own post code.

The Spend: from £9,500

The Royal Suite at The Lanesborough

Location: Knightsbridge

The Digs: Seven resplendent bedrooms spread across 4,800 square feet make this one of the most lavish setups in town. Two Albert Pinto-designed sitting rooms with floor-to-ceiling windows afford views of Wellington Arch and Buckingham Palace Gardens.

The Wow Factors: 24-hour butler service, a private entrance, a dedicated Rolls Royce, and endless amounts of marble and gilt make this a stunner fit for Louis XIV.

USP: The hotel's Library Bar is one of London's best spots to sip rare cognacs, while Michelin-starred restaurant Celeste offers a sublime menu by chef Steeven Gilles.

The Spend: from £18,000

Book It

The Royal Suite at The Savoy

Location: The Strand

The Digs: The two-bedroom suite overlooking the Thames has a rotating contemporary art program, so you don't even need to leave for your culture fix. Opened in spring 2016, the digs have soothing, cream-colored interiors by Pierre-Yves Rochon and Edwardian furnishings that evoke the hotel's rich history.

The Wow Factor: The views of the river and London's iconic landmarks are stunning. This was the vista that inspired Claude Monet to paint his series of London bridges, which he completed during his three long-term stays in the suite between 1899 and 1901.

USP: The 24-hour butler service is unrivaled, as are the delicious dry martinis in the Art Deco-inspired American Bar.

The Spend: from £17,000

Photo courtesy of COMO Metropolitan London.

COMO Suite at COMO Metropolitan London

Location: Park Lane

The Digs: Completely renovated in 2015, this spacious accommodation has floor-to-ceiling views of Hyde Park, even from the bathroom. For anyone in search of a peaceful, zen aesthetic (think light oak floors and neutral textiles), the sleek COMO outpost delivers.

The Wow Factors: A sitting room, pantry, and dining area that are big enough for a family of four make for the perfect jumping-off point for London sightseeing, meetings in Mayfair, or quiet meals in Shepherd's Mews just behind the hotel.

USP: Nobu downstairs means signature black cod with miso at all hours. Enough said.

The Spend: £2750

Opus Suite at The Berkeley Hotel

Location: Knightsbridge

The Digs: A muted green tea palette and original Asian furniture and art by interior designer Andre Fu fill the expansive space. A master bedroom, living room, study, full kitchen, and dining room make this a perfect, no-holds-barred pied-à-terre for an extended stay (or a serious lie-in).

The Wow Factor: The hotel's Blue Bar is still the height of cool, and the spa, with a pool overlooking Hyde Park, is destination-worthy.

Unique Selling Point: Michelin-star chef Marcus Wareing of in-house restaurant Marcus can be booked to prepare his stellar signature dishes en suite for parties of up to ten people.

The Spend: from $16,959

Shangri-La Suite at The Shangri-La Hotel at the Shard

The Location: Borough Market

The Digs: Set on level 39 of Renzo Piano's iconic skyscraper, the 2,000-plus square foot suite has it all: custom-made Italian furniture, silk-swathed walls, a dedicated chauffeur, private elevator access, 270-degree views, enormous marble bathrooms with heated floors, Bose sound systems, and spotting telescopes.

The Wow Factors: The specially designed Shangri-La bed featuring patented body-contouring technology is outfitted with sumptuous 1,000-threadcount Frette linens.

USP: Everything is personalized for you, from the stationery to Dine by Design meals prepared in your room's fully stocked kitchen.

The Spend: from $10,393

Dome Penthouse aat Hotel Café Royal

Location: Piccadilly Circus

The Digs: Three bedrooms, two furnished terraces, a living room, and marble dining table that seats six. An oasis of serene splendor.

The Wow Factors: The master suite is set beneath the hotel's iconic copper-domed rotunda, and the spacious suite features stunning views of Big Ben, the London Eye, the Houses of Parliament, and the Shard in the distance. Don't be afraid to use the LED projection system that illuminates the suite's dome. It's guaranteed to get the party started right.

USP: Thomas Kochs, the hotel's managing director, is the consummate hotelier/insider, and a person for whom no request is too big or too small.

The Spend: £14,000

The Royal Suite at Claridge's

Location: Mayfair

The Digs: Victorian opulence is in full effect in this first floor, two-bedroom suite. Edwardian furnishings and a piano once owned by Richard D'Oyly Carte, builder of the Savoy, add to the intimate, historic ambience.

The Wow Factor: 19th-century French prints line the high-ceilinged dining room, creating a vibe that's Victorian with a sleek edge.

USP: Reservations at Fera, the ultimate farm-to-table restaurant downstairs, are easily booked, and the Fumoir remains the sexiest spot for champagne, oysters, and post-theatre conversation in central London.

The Spend: $6,663

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE

A Pedestrian's Guide to Kensington
Madonna! London's High-Fashion Hotel Is, of Course, Italian
Welcome Home to a London Mansion of Your Own

Guest User 7/20/16 Guest User 7/20/16

A Luxurious Farmhouse Compound on the Adriatic

Serial hotel-hopper Christina Ohly checks into a serene beach club retreat on Italy's Adriatic shores.

PUGLIA, Italy – The concept of a traditional Apulian masseria, or farmhouse compound, has been taken to the next level at Borgo Egnazia, a spare, sleek, luxurious, and tasteful hotel-cum-spa-cum-beach-club near the charming port town of Savelletri in Puglia. Open for just five years, the blissful compound feels authentically rustic with the service and attention to detail one would find at an Aman resort.

The expansive grounds are fashioned as a maze of pathways that faithfully mimic the rustic streets of the surrounding towns. What could have been tacky has been exquisitely executed, right down to the bougainvillea-laden archways found at every turn. And despite hosting several hundred guests during high season, the hotel never felt crowded. The effect was magical.

The hotel grounds. Photo by Christina Ohly.

The entrance to the main building, La Corte.

What's New

Borgo focuses on "nowhere else" experiences and is always introducing something new. Recent offerings include Tarant spa treatments for women that are overseen by a local shaman; moisturizing oils and creams infused with local prickly pear, olive oil, and lemon developed by spa director Patrizia Bortolin; and beachy fashions from the concept shop, like chic caftans from UK-based niche brand Soler, tailored linen shirts custom-made for Borgo by Angelo Inglese, and the latest Allagiulia espadrilles. There is also a new pizza lunch spot and an ever-changing lunch buffet with fish crudo mixed to order.

The hotel also hosts Festa del Borgo three times each summer. The celebration features Apulian food and drink, local customs like the pizzica dance, a horse show that has steeds step in time to music (no joke), and demonstrations of beadwork and other local crafts. For kids, these nights are magical and worth planning a visit around. The luminaria-lighted central piazza and its surrounding streets twinkling with white lights make for the perfect place to stake out a table and savor the feast.

What's On Site

Literally everything you could wish for. Nothing has been overlooked by the Melpignano family, owners of Borgo Egnazia and the local boutique brand of San Domenico Hotels. The service is attentive and relaxed at the same time, from the moment you recieve a welcome drink in your spacious, light-filled room to the minute you want a spur-of-the-moment warm-stone Mascior massage.

There are several tennis courts and three pools — a swimming pool for families and two peaceful adult pools decked with sun loungers and shades and glasses of chilled Prosecco that seem to come out of nowhere. San Domenico Golf Course is across the driveway, and Cala Masciola beach club is a short bike ride away. The club is an ideal spot to spend a day in a cabana gazing out at the azure Adriatic. Water sports like paddle boarding, snorkeling, fishing, and kayaking are available to hotel guests, as are meals of grilled fish and pastas studded with sea urchin at Pescheria da Vito.

One major highlight at Borgo is Vair Spa, a sanctuary with soothing, tailor-made restorative treatments led by barefoot aestheticians. De-stress with herb-infused facials, cocooning cleansing rituals, and aromatherapies made from locally sourced ingredients. This is a destination spa, but guests are encouraged to try something as simple as a Roman bath, an Iyengar yoga class, or a relaxing pedicure. (No grueling workouts or deprivation here.)

The Food

It's impossible to find a bad meal in this part of the world, and this holds true for all of the restaurants at Borgo Egnazia. My favorites were the most relaxed: La Frasca for a casual breakfast buffet, Trattoria Mia Cucina for crusty, chewy pizza con prosciutto, and my top pick, the chic ocean-front Pescheria da Vito for billowing white linens and just-caught tuna tartare.

For a special evening, I highly recommend Due Camini. The hotel's fine dining option is so wonderfully designed that I barely focused on the cuisine, though it is excellent and traditionally Apulian. Neutral linens, local limestone, and exquisitely simple light fixtures create a magical backdrop reminiscent of a white-washed castle. Savor grilled octopus and house-made gnocchi with tomatoes grown on site, as well as glasses of local red and white wines. Verdeca house white and Negroamara Cabernet by Masseria Li Veli were among the highlights.

In the Room

There are 192 rooms — 63 in La Corte, the main house, and 92 in Borgo, which are sprawling, bi-level casitas. Most have patios or rooftops for sipping an Aperol spritz. Twenty-eight sumptuous villas, some with six bedrooms for all kinds of family configuration, round out the offerings.

Interiors are spacious and light-filled, but in no way showy or luxe: the epitome of understated elegance. Décor is perfectly muted — beige and cream-colored textiles, stone walls made of local materials (like tuff), sleek TVs, minibars with unlimited beverages, and terra-cotta tile bathroom suites.

Rooms with a View

I stayed in three different room types and loved them all. Bi-level room 37 in Il Borgo was perfect for our family of four (with two teens who need separate space), while room 52, a light-filled accommodation, was the ideal set up for two adults. Best of all was room 182 in La Corte, just off the central courtyard. The flowing space felt like a separate house and was in striking distance to the gym, adult pool, and subterranean spa. I'm coming back to stay at a villa. They look toned-down and tasteful, as with everything at Borgo Egnazia.

This Place Is Perfect For

Couples, families with children of all ages, stressed-out people in need of a relaxing spa experience. Also: foodies, sun-worshippers, lovers of the abundant UNESCO World Heritage sites surrounding the property, golfers, swimmers, chic shoppers. I could go on. The beauty of Borgo is that you can choose to see people or be completely, and I mean completely, alone.

But Not So Perfect For

Anyone averse to the heat or the sun. Both are seriously strong. And anyone who doesn't like fish. It's possible to subsist on pasta, but fruits of the sea are the name of the game.

CHECKING OUT

Neighborhood Vibe

One of the most wonderful things about Borgo Egnazia is its proximity to so much great culture (UNESCO World Heritage sites, medieval towns) and natural beauty (stunning blue grottoes, rocky beaches, and endless verdant rolling hills).

What to Do Nearby

Outside the hotel gates is Savelletri. It might not seem like much at first glance, but the fishing town is unbelievably charming at night. I especially loved dinner at the design-led Pescheria 2 Mari, with lots of glass and the freshest tuna crudo I've ever tasted. The restaurant is a wonderful place to watch the world go by on a summer evening, as is La Taverna di Umberto across the road.

Best of all was lunch at Ricciolandia (SP90, Torre Canne; +39-33-8357-3010), a massive outdoor spot serving freshly caught urchin prepared all sorts of ways. It's breezy picnic table dining that offers a glimpse into local life at very affordable prices. Ristorante Osteria del Porto is another winner for spaghetti alle vongole and grilled seafood served on a deck overlooking the harbor's fishing skiffs.

Just north of Borgo in the seaside village of Poliganano a Mare: incredible mussels and branzino at Da Tuccino, where the warm waitstaff is topped only by unparalleled people-watching from the terrace. The nearby fishing village of Monopoli is also worth an excursion, as is dinner at the atmospheric Porto Ghiacciolo (+39-34-6223-7762), which has white sandy beaches on either side. The embodiment of the Dolce Vita vibe.

No trip to this part of the world would be complete without seeing the trulli, conical stone houses, of Alberobello. It's touristy, so go in early in the morning, then visit the lovely centro storico in the quiet, sweet town of Cisternino.

Ostuni is another highlight, perched on a hillside overlooking the distant sea, where we had several of the most memorable meals of our trip: Casa San Giacomo (Via B. Continelli, 4; +39-32-8138-8457) for a cozy meal in a grotto-like setting, Il Bella Vista for stunning views of olive groves at sunset, and La Sommita for chic cocktails in a hip hotel atmosphere.

Last but certainly not least is Lecce, a historic city with exuberant Baroque masterpieces at every turn. Basilica di Santa Croce, Piazza del Duomo, and the stunning Museo Faggiano are all must-sees. A meal at the new boutique hotel at La Fiermontina is another reason to visit.

A classic combination. Photo courtesy of Osteria del Porto.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

How to Get There

Fly into Bari Karol Wojtyla Airport (BRI) or Brindisi-Salento Airport (BDS). The ride from either is an hour.

Getting Around

I highly recommend a rental car for day trips to nearby Polignano, Lecce, Ostuni, Cisternino, Alberobello, and Savelletri, the sweet seaside town right outside Borgo's front gates.

What to Pack

Bring sunscreen. The sun is searing. The highest SPF I could find was 25, which didn't do much for my pale skin.

Good to Know

The services of Emily Fitzroy, of London-based Bellini Travel, are incredibly useful when planning a trip to this part of the world. Emily is an insider and has access to hole-in-the-wall restaurants like Ricciolandia in Savelletri and scores of impossible-to-book tables at trendy spots like Masseria Cimino. Her incredible team handles everything from car transfers to cathedral tours in Lecce. Consider her the tasteful, connected Italian friend you wish you had.

BOOK IT

La Corte Bella rooms start at $831 per night. Click here for reservations.

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE

Do It Like an Italian: Escape to Puglia
A Little Corner of Hotel Heaven in Puglia
Holy Hotel! It's Pure Italian Magic at an Off-the-Grid Convent-Turned-Palazzo

Guest User 3/30/16 Guest User 3/30/16

Le Grand Hotel: A Contemporary Palace in Paris

Fathom contributor and hotel critic Christina Ohly checks into a spectacularly grand boutique hotel in the heart of Paris.

CHECKING IN

Overview

Set in an 18th-century building partly designated as a historical monument, Grand Hotel du Palais Royal Paris is a true gem in a city bursting with wonderful hotels. The chic boutique bolthole has all the advantages of a large, luxury hotel, but at just 68 rooms, is the only five-star of its kind in the well-situated Palais Royal area.

A soothing, sumptuous escape, the hotel is a study in neutral hues and minimalist aesthetics. Best of all, it is literally feet away from the gardens of Palais Royal — just stroll through the colonnade across the street from the hotel's lobby and you're transported to another time. Also in striking distance are the Tulleries, the Louvre, and wonderful shopping on both Rue Sainte-Honoré and in St. Germain-des-Pres across the Seine.

What's New

Noted French interiors guru Pierre-Yves Rochon renovated the rooms and common spaces, including Le Lulli restaurant and a cozy bar. The idea is to make you feel like the Palais is your maison away from home. A Carita spa and a reasonably well-outfitted gym (it's Paris after all, this isn't a priority) have also been updated, and great focus has been put on the concierge team, who work tirelessly to secure everything from Paris Saint Germain football tickets to hard-to-score reservations at restaurants such as Frenchie and Semilla to in-room doctor visits for sick children in need of antibiotics. (It wouldn't be a holiday without this added diversion, would it?)

What's on Site

You have all the amenities of one of the palace hotels found in the 8th and the 16th (gym, spa with hammam, delicious restaurant, spacious rooms with terraces), but the whole experience feels more intimate. Excellent WiFi, international newspapers, and plentiful adapters are pluses. The staff is willing to source anything — groceries, pharmacy finds, advance tickets to the Picasso Museum.

The Food

I'm a huge fan of breakfast, and I can't say enough good things about the complimentary spread in the conservatory restaurant, Le Lulli. The bright setting — brilliant green plants and a design-led Bertoia vibe — starts the day off right, and the selection of freshly baked breads, salads, fruit, cheeses, and excellent coffee are well beyond your typical, all-inclusive fare. Omelettes made to order are another highlight. The staff is attentive to every wish, sometimes before you've identified the need for more thé vert or jus d'orange. Lunch is also lovely, with light pouring into the restaurant and exquisitely prepared fish dishes and refined takes on the classic chicken Caesar salad.

n the Room

There are 57 rooms and eleven suites across the hotel's five floors, and each is elegant and filled with light. The rooms feel both warm and modern — beige and cream with leather and wood finishes, desks, and gleaming marble bathrooms — and are wonderful places to return to after a day of work or sightseeing. Minibars are stocked with beverages but little else, so ask for additional supplies or stock up at the nearby Franprix just down Rue St. Honoré. There are flat-screen TVs with umpteen channels in all languages, as well as strong, hot showers, thick towels, and enormous robes which all coalesce to ease the pain of long-haul flights.

Room with a View

Our family of four occupied two interconnecting rooms (308 and 309) overlooking quiet Rue du Valois and the entrance to Palais Royal. Bright even on slightly dreary days, these rooms work incredibly well for children of all ages, but next time I will stay in one of the terrace or panorama suites. Both are on the top floor, accessible by private elevator. Some have views of Palais Royal, while others have vistas of the Eiffel Tower, Montmartre, and Opera Garnier.

This Place Is Perfect For

Families, business travelers, fashionistas who want access to the nearby shops and ateliers of Paris' leading designers, and anyone who has a thing for the loggias and ambience of the Palais Royal. This is simply a rare gem.

But Not So Perfect For

Anyone who wants the big, shiny Parisian hotel experience. For this, head straight to the impressive new Peninsula on Avenue Kleber (also lovely, just a different experience).

CHECKING OUT

Neighborhood Vibe

Real life is happening here. You're not on a polished street in the Golden Triangle, but rather in the heart of the working city. Commuters come out of Palais Royal metro and scurry by, while tourists pass en route to the side entrance and the pyramids of the Louvre.

What to Do Nearby

There are no shortage of activities. Louvre, Musee D'Orsay, and the Opera are nearby. Excellent restaurants, of which there are many, include Café Marly in the colonnades of the Louvre, a perennial favorite for lunch and people-watching.

My favorite eateries are further afield, like the new Kinugawa Matignon in the 8th, which shines for both excellent sashimi and chic ambience. Ralph's in Saint Germain-des-Pres is wonderful for spring and summer lunches en plein air, as is a spread of Poilâne tartines at the casual Bar de la Croix Rouge (2 Place Michel Debré; +33-1-4548-0645), more toned down than nearby Café de Flore (172 Boulevard Saint-Germain; +33-1-4548-5526) and Les Deux Magots (which will always be mainstays).

Semilla, also in the 6th arrondissement, is an excellent choice for both the design-led space and small plates of grilled shiitake mushrooms and enormous bowls of cake and ice cream drizzled with caramel sauce — dishes meant for sharing that add to the relaxed, convivial vibe.

The high-end shops (YSL, Prada, Hermès...) are on Rue Saint-Honoré, while smaller gems are hidden across the Seine in St. Germain-des-Pres. L/Uniform is hands-down my favorite shop for stylish, practical canvas and leather bags by the daughter-in-law of the Goyard family. Muriel Grateau is a beautiful, spare space full of exquisite linen napkins, minimalist ceramics, and strong, statement-making crystal jewelry. Basics like Le Bon Marché and Du Pareil au Même (the French answer to/or a cooler version of Baby Gap) are both in this area of the 6th.

Lovers of good design should flock to 107Rivoli (part of Musee des Arts Décoratifs), which is full of incredible accessories, books, lighting, jewelry, and more. It's a short walk from the hotel next to the Louvre.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Good to Know

Book directly through the hotel so that upgrades and changes are handled directly with the front desk. The owners of this hotel are all about happy customers and will upgrade whenever possible. Don't be shy about asking. Ditto for early check-ins and bag storage. Both are helpful after a red-eye flight.

Uber is big in Paris: Cheaper, faster, nicer drivers (generally) who dole out sweets and bottled water make rides a win-win.

How to Get There

The hotel is approximately 45 minutes from Charles De Gaulle airport (CDG) by car (depending on the time of day) and 30 minutes from Paris Orly airport (ORY), which services much of Europe. The Palais Royal Metro is around the corner from the hotel and is by far the easiest way to get around, particularly during Fashion Week when the area becomes gridlocked.

Christina Ohly Evans 6/25/15 Christina Ohly Evans 6/25/15

Double the Fun Meets Double the Flavor in Provence

If your French country vacation fantasy involves a beautiful and intimate hotel, unforgettable meals both elaborate and simple, and cultural diversions to entertain you or peace and quiet to soothe you, you might find yourself at the newly merged hotels Oustau de Baumanière and La Cabro d'Or in Les Baux-de-Provence.

LES BAUX-DE-PROVENCE, France – The last time I was in the bucolic area surrounding St. Rémy-de-Provence, it was with a one- and two-year-old in tow, so some of the mystique — and particularly the culinary magic — was lost on me. I didn't have time to savor lengthy meals — from simple, wood-fired pizzas on St. Rémy's town square, to sumptuous, multi-course meals at Oustau de Baumanière, the renowned temple of haute cuisine in nearby Les Baux-de-Provence. I managed to eat well, of course, but the entire visit was something of a blur.

On my recent visit, however, I got to see the surrounding Roman ruins, shop markets bursting with fresh lavender and local honey, and languish in the postcard-perfect pool.

CHECKING IN

Overview

The newly merged Baumanière and sister property La Cabro d'Or together comprise 56 guest rooms that give this property an intimate, authentic bastide-esque feel. The hotel has been owned by the same family for generations and everything operates like a small country inn, albeit one with seriously luxe, Relais & Chateaux touches. Spacious, simple rooms in neutral palettes capitalize on the Provençal light, and all feature views of the surrounding lush gardens and rocky Baux Valley.

What's New

The two boutique hotels merged in March 2015, but none of the special flavor of each has been lost. Instead, there are three discreet pools to choose from as well as a lower-key food offering (that is no less delicious) at La Cabro d'Or.

What's On Site

Wi-Fi is beside the point, as you'll really want to disconnect here. But for the hardcore, connectivity is easy. The spa is a real draw, and sybarites flock here for beauty and wellness treatments like gentle scrubs with Valmont products and restorative massages. Time did not allow for a visit to the sumptuous spa, but I've added this to my list for a subsequent visit. The hammam looked beyond wonderful. Sport is limited to lawn games like petanque, with maybe a game of tennis thrown in to burn off last night's €210 tasting menu. The property is strewn with beautiful bougainvillea, jasmine, and plane trees that are so much a part of southern France that you'll find it difficult to leave to explore the area's rich history.

The Food

Food is certainly the central focus at both properties. People pilgrimage to Oustau de Baumanière for chef Jean-Andre Charial's elaborate offerings that have lightened in recent years to reflect people's desire for delicious yet healthful cuisine. Exquisitely simple fruits and vegetables — locally sourced asparagus, artichokes, wild strawberries — as well as red mullet, succulent duck, and risottos are all prepared in inventive ways.

At La Cabro d'Or, chef Michel Hulin prepares gorgeous steamed sea bass with tajine-like vegetables, rack of lamb, and a cheese course that will not soon be forgotten — all in the most magical, plein air patio setting.

The wines are central at both restaurants, with Oustau's cellar containing more than 60,000 bottles of some of the world's finest vintages including great Bordeaux like Pétrus, d'Yquem, Haut-Brion, and Lafite. Rare Champagnes include Krug's Clos du Mesnil and d'Ambonnay, as well Dom Perignon Oenothèque. But for me, a glass of simple, locally produced rose sipped on the terrace at sunset is by far the way to go.

In the Room

The 56 rooms here range from cozy classics suitable for two to expansive suites and prestige rooms that can accommodate three or more. The décor is Provençal chic: white-washed walls, terracotta and natural wood finishes, and luxurious linens. Each space has been updated with sleek TVs and air conditioning — a must as the temperatures soar in July and August.

This Place Is Perfect For

Foodie couples who might want a bit of culture, but really want a relaxing, restorative experience. Ideal as a three-day weekend from the U.K. or elsewhere in Europe as it is easily accessible by Marseille, just minutes away.

But Not So Perfect For

Families with small children. The management can certainly attend to little people — special meals are always an option and excellent babysitters are in plentiful supply — but the point is to savor the silence, the sun, and, most importantly, the excellent food. Meals can last hours, and this doesn't typically jive with the under-five set.

Room with a View

I've stayed at both Oustau and La Cabro d'Or, and while it is impossible to go wrong at either property, Oustau has a certain magic that I will return for time and again. I stayed in a deluxe room with a terrace which was absolutely lovely — especially with the early morning floral scents wafting in — but I'd really love to load it up in an expansive suite with a separate living room for that home stay feel.

CHECKING OUT

The Surroundings

One could simply park it in Les Baux-de-Provence, a sweet village set atop a barren plateau in the Alpilles — and just take in the expansive views of the Camargue and Arles in the distance. Resist the temptation to sit poolside and get up to go explore the medieval castle and spare St. Catherine's 12th century church in town. Sixteenth-century mansions-turned-museums like Yves Brayer and the Louis Jou Fondation are worth a visit for their art collections and architecture.

What to Do Nearby

In the immediate area, you'll want to hit the medieval fortress, the Val d'Enfer, and Carrières de Lumière (Quarries of Light). Must-sees in St. Rémy-de-Provence include the archeological site Glanum and the cloisters of Saint-Paul de Mausole. Château of Barbegal in nearby Fontveille is also worth a detour, as are the arenas and amphitheatres of Arles. The Fondation Vincent Van Gogh is another Arles highlight, while lovers of contemporary art and design should make a beeline for the Frank Gehry and Annabelle Selldorf-designed LUMA Foundation, for photography, painting, film, and more.

It's virtually impossible to get a bad meal in this part of the world, and even the simplest pain bagnat and Nicoise pizza are consistent crowd pleasers. Au Bistrot Marin (68 Avenue de la Vallée des Baux) and La Place in the quaint village of Maussane-les-Aplilles are worth a detour for a decadent lunch. Le Bistrot du Paradou is a must for authentic country fare in a relaxed setting. This simple country house is quintessential Provence (at least to this American), complete with a warm wood and tile interior and dishes such as roast chicken with crispy, salty skin, and pommes Dauphinoise.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

How to Get There

Marseille Provence Airport (MRS), at an hour's drive, is the nearest airport. Directs flights from the United States are available into Nice Côte d'Azur Airport (NCE), approximately a two-hour drive away.

Getting Around

A car is a must for exploring the area. Note that roads are winding and have been known to induce car sickness in the faint of stomach.

BOOK IT

Rates start at €200. Click here for reservations.

Guest User 1/18/15 Guest User 1/18/15

Where to Stay Now: Miami's Hot New Boutique Hotels

Miami is topping our hotlist of hot places to travel in 2015 in no small part because of all the great new hotels that are opening. Contributing editor Christina Ohly gives us the rundown of four of the best new ones.

MIAMI – Everyone and their mother is building or has recently opened a sleek, design-led hotel in South Beach. They all pay homage to Miami's rich architectural history, but differ slightly in tone, finishes, and food options. I spent a week in Miami checking in and checking out a few new hotels.

Traymore restaurant. Photo courtesy of Metropolitan by COMO.

Metropolitan by COMO, Miami Beach

2445 Collins Ave., South Beach; +1-305-695-3600

Specs: A boutique bolthole from hotelier Christina Ong, the latest COMO is comprised of just 74 rooms designed by noted interior designer Paola Navone. Rooms are simple, spare, and elegant, and the in-house Traymore restaurant (so named for the original Deco gem in which it is housed) serves exquisite ceviches, brick oven pizzas, and straight-from-the-sea stews.

Pluses: The intimate setting and the Zen spa make this place feel like a chic escape. There is no scene here.

Minuses: Not many.

Unique Selling Point: The relaxing Indian head massage at the sleek spa. Also, the completely peaceful pool area which features the perfect mix of sun, shade, and gourmet snacks.

This Place Is Perfect For: Anyone seeking a quiet, restorative long weekend.

But Not So Perfect For: Those in search of late-night action or anyone on a tight budget.

Rates: City rooms start at $269 per night.

The Miami Beach EDITION

2901 Collins Ave., South Beach; +1-786-257-4500

Specs: This just-opened "next generation urban resort" from Ian Schrager and Marriott Hotels occupies a sleekly renovated 1950s landmark on Collins Avenue in the mid-beach section of South Beach. The latest of Schrager's EDITION hotels for Marriott (London and Istanbul are thriving) has 294 minimalist rooms and suites, many with breathtaking ocean vistas.

Pluses: Everything is spotlessly clean, and white linens and neutral wood finishes abound. The staff — from room service to cheerful concierges — are eager to please.

Minuses: It draws a slightly louder crowd — possibly for the disco bowling downstairs.

Unique Selling Point: There are several. Market by Jean Georges Vongerichten serves delicious food 24/7 in a vibrant, open air space. The poolside restaurant Tropicale serves perfect shrimp cocktail in an Art Deco, bouganvillea-strewn landscape. But really, this place is such a one-stop hotel shop that you could bring an entire family here and find an activity, spa treatment, luxury suite, or amenity for everyone.

This Place Is Perfect for: Art Basel attendees and start-up CEOs.

But Not So Perfect For: Anyone seeking total quiet or anyone who prefers overstuffed chairs and chintz.

Rates: Standard King rooms start at $349 per night. Click here for reservations.

Read More: An interview with Ian Schrager about the EDITION collection.

Casa Claridge

3500 Collins Ave., South Beach; +1-305-604-8485 and reception@casaclaridge.com

Specs: Originally built in the Mediterranean Revival style, the 50-room hotel recently purchased by hotelier Alan Faena feels like a relaxed guest house — as well as an arts hub — a counterpoint to the Saxony Hotel and Norman Foster-designed apartments Faena is builing across Collins Avenue. Casa Claridge rooms have touches like Frette linens and bottles of Argentinean malbec, not to mention peace and quiet in plentiful quantities.

Pluses: The atmosphere is sweet — think sophisticated house party — where people congregate in the main sitting room underneath a giant paper cut-out ceiling installation by Manuel Ameztoy.

Minuses: There's no swimming pool and the bathrooms could use a sprucing up.

Unique Selling Point: A three-way tie between the killer tuna tartare served on the patio, the rotating art exhibits, and the musical tertulias on Friday nights that feature guest curators.

This Place Is Perfect For: Those seeking a low-key vibe on a budget.

But Not So Perfect For: Anyone looking for bells, whistles, or bowling alleys (see The EDITION down the street).

Rates: Casa Queen Rooms start at $129 per night. Click here for reservations.

Thompson Miami Beach

4041 Collins Ave., South Beach; +1-786-605-4041

Specs: This 380-room beachfront spot captures the mid-century modern aesthetic through interior design by noted British tastemaker Martin Brudnizki. Rooms feel spacious: Many have ocean views, and more than 30 suites have expansive terraces, full kitchensm and living rooms. The furnishings are eclectic and more colorful than the stark, white environments found in neighboring hotels.

Pluses: The pool and garden areas are perfect for people watching, and the hotel's restaurant Seagrape is run by James Beard Award-winning chef and local food hero Michelle Bernstein. A Miami native, she plays to the area's seafood strengths in a relaxed, retro setting.

Minuses: The lobby feels slightly strange — lots of dark colors and no clear sitting areas.

Unique Selling Point: The tenth floor spa has lovely sea views and the Crown Room is the perfect spot for a cocktail connoisseur.

This Place Is Perfect For: The younger set and fans of a slightly funkier design aesthetic.

But Not So Perfect For: Anyone looking for a highly personal, intimate environment.

In addition to these spots and others like Hotel Croydon and Circa 39, 2015 promises to be a year of spectacular openings. The two best to watch are Faena's Deco gem The Saxony and the very green 1 Hotel in the former Gansevoort space. Happy Miami. It's going to be a hot winter.

Guest User 10/10/14 Guest User 10/10/14

Verdura Golf and Spa Resort Is the Sicilian Golf Resort You'll Never Want to Leave

All-inclusive resorts are usually a Fathom taboo. Unless it's a sleek Sicilian golf resort with stellar seaside views, high-end dining options, and a full-service spa. Christina Ohly checks out the secluded, self-sustaining spot outside Catania that's surprisingly hard to leave. And this time, we're okay with that.

Overview

Sleek stone finishes and fine linens, endless pools and play spaces, and four different and delicious restaurants mean you'll never want to leave Verdura Resort, a golf resort and spa on the southwestern coast of Sicily.

Claim to Fame

The spa is spectacular, with white zen spaces at every turn. Excellent aestheticians specialize in deep tissue massage.

What's on Site

Everything is on site: a great gym, a full-service spa, a pizzeria, and fine dining options. There's WiFi everywhere, but you'll only find Italian channels on television. Consider it part of the cultural immersion, like the resort's soccer clinics for kids led by Juventus players.

Details at Granita Bar, one of the many food and drink options on-site.

The Food

This is a Verdura highlight. Breakfast is served on an enormous poolside patio, and lunch and dinner options range from a simple pizzeria to the seaside Amare, where you get to select your fish from the catch of the day. Chef Fulvio Pierangelini, the famous executive chef of all Rocco Forte Hotels, is often around. He's wonderful, as are his on-site cooking classes.

This Place Is Perfect For

Families, as there are so many kid-centric activities and facilities: A long beach with toys and boats, various pools, tennis courts, and a manageable golf course. Soccer clinics, cool babysitters, and endless room for running around are other highlights. Verdura is also perfect for sun-seekers from the United Kingdom who can fly easily into Palermo or Catania for a weekend away.

But Not So Perfect For

Honeymooners. It seems a bit big and bustling. You never feel like you're seeing other people, so I'm sure there are secluded spaces, but they're not the order of the day.

Room with a View

I stayed in a junior suite with my two pre-teens. It was spacious and comfortable, with incredibly high ceilings and atmospheric linen netting over the king-size bed. Sweeping views of the golf course and the sea made for a relaxing stay.

Seriously awesome soccer camp headed by Juventus footballers.

Neighborhood Vibe

There is no town nearby, but you won't want to leave anyway. This is a self-sustaining compound, with food, drink, classes, sports of all kinds, beauty treatments...the list is endless. The only downside to all of this is that you'll feel slightly guilty for being in this historical part of the world and wanting to sit poolside, prosecco in hand, doing nothing more than reading a book between lunch and dinner.

What to Do Nearby

The Valley of the Temples in nearby Agrigento and the city of Catania, a UNESCO World Heritage site, are both musts. Force yourself off the sun lounger for these bits of culture and for a quick detour to the seaside village of Sciacca. This last stop provides a real dose of local color and a look at a working fishing port. Other nearby attractions include the ruins of Selinunte, Le Scale dei Turchi, and Eraclea Minoa.

Step out to seaside Sciacca. Photo by Christina Ohly.

BOOK IT

Rates start at €220. Click here for reservations.

FIND IT

Verdura Resort
S.S. 115 km 131, 92019
Sciacca, Sicily, Italy
+39-0925-998-001
reservations.verdura@roccofortehotels.com

Guest User 8/30/14 Guest User 8/30/14

Rome's Hot New Hotel Is a Poet's Old Home

An old property is becoming the big news in Roman hospitality. Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly checked into the former home of German writer Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, the hot addition to Rome's hotel options.

CHECKING IN

La Scelta di Goethe has been spectacularly transformed into a series of sumptuous apartments that makes for a home stay like no other. Do not judge this book by its cover, as the entrance to the luxury apartments is a simple door on bustling Via del Corso, just around the corner from the Spanish Steps.

Guests are greeted at the main door and escorted up to the fourth floor apartments, where they're welcomed with fresh fruits, pressed juices, and champagne.

There are three suite options: Trinita dei Monti has sweeping terraces, a well-stocked library, and a rooftop soaking pool. Villa Medici has quiet bedrooms, a spacious and high-ceiling living room, and a private dining room overlooking the the domes of Trinita dei Monti. Goethe's Home, at 260 square meters, is the total house takeover that includes both Trinita dei Monti and Villa Medici suites. Access to additional communal areas makes it ideal for families, small groups, or those seeking big, elegant, silent space.

A stay at La Scelta is simply unlike anyplace else. Every finish and fabric — exquisite marbles! beautiful woods! — has been carefully considered by Mario Angelini, the warm owner. The dedicated butler and concierge stay completely out of sight — until you need to ask questions about running routes, cultural highlights, and hidden trattoria throughout this eternally wonderful city.

Claim to Fame

Just opened a year ago, the hotel is still under the radar, but it won't be for long. The name translates as "the choice of Goethe," and these are, in fact, the former apartments of German poet J.W. Goethe. A stay is like a wonderful history lesson with five-star polish and service and the best access to the city.

What's on Site

The refined attic apartments are more like the home of a Roman royal than the usual luxury hotel. There is nothing typical about the rich tapestries, the Florentine artwork, and the exceptional collections of contemporary glass that line the shelves. You will find yourself marveling at the overall design, a loving restoration of an historic building in the heart of the city, but one that incorporates the latest technologies in subtle ways (like loaded iPads in every guest room). The perfectly pressed sheets are of the highest thread count, and the amenities in the sleek bathrooms are Santa Maria Novella, including toothbrushes and paste. No small request is overlooked, and delectable snacks appear at key points throughout the day. No gym, no restaurant; good WiFi, televisions, and phones. The staff is happy to arrange gym passes. Markets just outside the front door make stocking up on cold Diet Cokes a cinch.

Room with a View

My extended family and I were lucky enough to take over the entire house, which made for a very different, more personal Roman stay. I slept in the quiet back room in the master suite. I absolutely loved the owner, Mario. With his warm smile and chatty Italian (I told him I spoke the language once upon a time, as in, 25 years ago), I learned so much about the neighborhood and the loving restoration of these apartments, as well as his sister property, San Buono, in the Tuscan hills.

The Food

Breakfast is the total highlight of any stay here, and, when possible, is served on the rooftop terrace, with 360-degree views of Villa Borghese, Vatican City, and Saint Carlo Church in the distance. It was a meal I won't soon forget: muesli, yogurt, meats and cheeses, berries of every kind, a delicious plum tart, fresh breads and croissants from the baker down the street. It just went on and on.

This Place Is Perfect For

Groups of six, families with older children, couples looking for a total escape. That La Scelta di Goethe can work for any and all is a testament to the staff and how hard they work to ensure that every guest is looked after.

But Not So Perfect For

Anyone with mobility issues and small children, as there are multiple stairs involved. The cream-colored sofa fabrics and fine artworks by Pietro Bardellino aren't very kid-friendly either.

CHECKING OUT

Neighborhood Vibe

The luxury suites are a complete oasis in an otherwise frenetic part of the city. You're a minute from the Spanish Steps, the high-end shops lining Via Condotti, and Piazza del Popolo, yet you'll feels like you've stepped back in time.

What to Do Nearby

You're in the middle of Rome. What can't you do? Area highlights include Basilica Santa Maria del Popolo, straciatella gelato from Il Gelato (Largo Monte D'Oro, 28), dinners outside at Piazza del Popolo's Dal Bolognese(more for the scene than the food, which is perfectly fine), and pizza and foccacia by the slice from Grano around the corner (literally, the best I've ever had). The Pantheon, the most beautiful building on earth, is a short walk away, as is lunch of incredible cheeses and crudo at nearby Roscioli.

FIND IT

La Scelta di Goethe
Via del Corso, 107, 00187
Roma, Italy
+39-06-6994-2219
info@lasceltadigoethe.com

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE

Little Black Book: Chef Nick Anderer's Favorite Roman Restaurants
La Dolce Everything: Rome on Two Wheels
Hometwon Debrief: Katie Parla's Rome

Christina Ohly Evans 9/25/13 Christina Ohly Evans 9/25/13

Checking In: Old Stone Farm

Fathom contributing editor and B&B hater Christina Ohly checked into Old Stone Farm, a beautiful, new inn/spa/holistic healing center a few hours north of New York City. And just like that, she's singing the hippie tune.

HUDSON VALLEY, New York – I am not generally one for a B&B — or any kind of creaky-floored communal living, for that matter — so my recent visit to Old Stone Farm, a hotel that opened about six weeks ago near bucolic Rhinebeck, New York, took me completely by surprise. I have explored this picturesque part of the Hudson Valley at length. It is full of beautiful scenery, great farmers' markets, and endless culture (music, theatre, and historic homes), but there has always been a lack of great (do not read "fancy") places to stay. But with the addition of Old Stone Farm, a ten-room inn, spa, and holistic healing center, the area's accommodations are really looking up. The brainchild of Sherry Kahn and her late husband Stu, the property is full of wonderful old barns, a yoga studio, lofty spaces for quiet contemplation, and cozy bedrooms.

CHECK IN, CHECK OUT

You drive through the massive split fence gates onto 236 acres of horse farm. It's as beautiful as you can imagine. You're surrounded by natural beauty everywhere: in the gardens and maple groves, by the swimming pond, and along the hiking trails. Your bags are whisked to your room and your car is valet parked, but there is nothing "hotel" about this place. The innkeeper's warm greeting gives the feeling that you've arrived at the estate of a gentleman farmer friend. The communal spaces — bright sitting rooms, reading nooks, a long dining table (a personal taboo, but somehow acceptable here) — encourage you to spread out as if you were in your own home. You're a guest at this intimate house party.

Equinox and Blue, two of the guest rooms.

The rooms has been lovingly restored down to the details — organic mattresses, Frette linens, extensive collections of American art, and high, exposed-beam ceilings in many rooms. Most are named for the farm's horses: Tidbit, Spirit, Secret, Duke, and Hawkins among them. The sprawling four-bedroom guesthouse is a great option for families and small groups.

WELLNESS FOR ALL

Some of the best therapists in the Hudson Valley are on call to perform daily, wellness treatments like massages, energy healing treatments, facials, and wraps. Haute hippies, it turns out, give killer massages, and there are all kinds of craniosacral and soothing hot stone options that I never even knew existed. Coolest of all may be the two cedar steam cabinets — old school! completely rejuvenating! — that incorporate the principles of Ayurveda to cleanse and detoxify the body.

The adrenaline is physical: Guests can use the indoor and oudoor horseback riding arenas and take energizing yoga classes in the 18th-century barn. And the adrenaline is mental: A series of constantly changing workshops designed to educate and reinvigorate are integral to the Old Stone Farm ethos. There are weekend retreats — classes with noted yoga instructors, spa treatments, horseback riding — and courses, like the four-day "This Beautiful Wound: Grief as a Spiritual Path." It's all a little touchy-feely but in a subdued way. Guests feel encouraged to explore new topics and try new treatments.

A sampling of the inn's hearty, healthy food.

EAT LOCAL AND DELICIOUS

What is a weekend away without great food? Not much, I say. Chef Matt Gaines cooks three delicious meals a day, plus endless snacks and hors d'oeuvres, at Pop's Kitchen, a central building with a cozy dining room and an enormous, kitted out kitchen. Gaines uses locally sourced ingredients whenever possible and prepares sophisticated, flavorful cuisine. The housemade granola and a warming Davenport Farms corn soup with avocado, lime, and queso fresco are notable menu options. For lunch, the hearty, inventive veggie burgers made with French lentils, bulgur, cremini mushrooms, leeks, onions, and a barbecue glaze will tide you over until a dinner of braised chicken, seared halibut, or fresh pasta. Everything is imaginative and delicious, right down to the killer flourless chocolate with local strawberry sorbet.

The chef knows his clientele (gluten-free, vegan, everything in between) and can tailor his dishes to all sort of dietary requirements. Bottom line: The food is scrumptious, fresh, and filling. This is not an exercise in deprivation, but rather a place to be introduced to the bounties — freshly baked bread, Catsmo smoked salmon, local cheeses — of the surrounding area.

OFF-CAMPUS ADVENTURES

On the off chance that you want to leave this pleasant compound, head to nearby Rhinebeck. The nearby Culinary Institute of America produces top talent, and it shows on the restaurant scene. The Local serves creative mezes prepared with the freshest area foods. Market Street is a warm, bright spot with a wood-burning oven that turns out fantastic thin-crust pizzas like Caprina, with fig-rosemary spread, Coach Farms goat cheese, pear, arugula, and truffle oil, as well as juicy lamb chops with crispy fingerling potatoes.

For a gentle hike with stellar views, the two miles of trails along Poet's Walk meander through fields and along the Hudson River. Hiking, biking, cross-country skiing, and showshoeing are the seasonal activities of choice around here. Further north, you'll find Olana, the former home and gardens of the artist Frederic Edwin Church. The grounds are stunning, as are the Hudson River School paintings within. Seasonal events include everything from outdoor concerts to art classes. Hudson, a former shipping and manufacturing town, has been hipped up with the addition of mid-century modern galleries, clothing shops, and creative restaurants like Swoon Kitchen Bar, where kale salads and thick-cut BLT sandwiches are the orders of the day.

FIND IT

Old Stone Farm
2434 State Route 9G
Staatsburg, NY 12580
+1-845-876-3977

GETTING THERE

Two hours from New York City via Amtrak or by car along the Taconic Parkway.

Guest User 7/20/13 Guest User 7/20/13

Chic Vibes and Picture-Perfect Views in Capri

After spending a few days in Ravello, contributing editor Christina Ohly and her family went to Capri for the quintessential experience: fresh seafood, lots of chilling out, intense people watching, and picture-perfect views.

CAPRI, Italy – With its effortless chic vibe and endless blue vistas, Capri is about as close to Nirvana as you're likely to get. Best enjoyed in the shoulder seasons (late spring and early fall), it's a magical place full of natural and archaeological wonders, not to mention delicious food and first-rate hotels. If you're in the market for complete relaxation (and unparalleled people watching), you'll find it on this island.

The Venetian salon at Villa San Michele. Photo: Peter de Ru. — The Venetian salon at Villa San Michele. Photo: Peter de Ru.

WHAT TO DO

Chill
Relaxation is the name of the game on Capri, with the odd shopping excursion, ice cream cone, and cultural detour thrown in for good measure. The sun is intense and the temperatures soar in the summer months, so come armed with plenty of lightweight clothing, serious sunscreen, and a stack of old New Yorkers or a few good books. Capri is the epitome of la dolce vita, and you'll want to surrender to the preferred island activity of not doing very much at all.

Take to the Seas
While you will have taken a ferry to reach Capri, a small, chartered tour of the island by boat (preferably a Riva) is a wonderful way to experience the azure Tyrrhenian Sea. Many hotels can arrange for the use of their own boats: Capri Palace will rent the owner's 65-foot South Wind for the day.

Capri's biggest attraction is the Grotta Azzurra (Blue Grotto), a coastal sea cave that is flooded with brilliant blue light. Yes, it's beautiful. But be warned: It is also teeming with tourists.

A bedroom in Villa San Michele. Photo: Peter de Ru. — A bedroom in Villa San Michele. Photo: Peter de Ru.

Commune with the Ancients
I wish I'd known about the Villa San Michele before my last day, because this museum and park really should be explored at great length. Built on the ruins of Emperor Tiberius' villa by the Swedish doctor, Axel Munthe, this magnificent spread sits atop a promontory overlooking the sea and houses moss-covered relics, ancient columns, and statuary at every turn. The house is comprised of beautiful loggias, atria, bedrooms, a wonderful kitchen, and an embellished chapel. Within these rooms you'll find over a thousand objects — Etruscan antiquities, Renaissance choir stalls — that Dr. Munthe sourced from all over Europe during his lifetime.

The compound (complete with bird sanctuary) is now overseen by the Swedish state and there is, I swear, a Nordic design sensibility to the whole place. The lush gardens are the perfect place to relax, and I only regret not seeing one of the beautiful, open-air concerts that the villa is so well known for. Before any visit, track down a copy of Dr. Munthe's The Story of San Michele, as fascinating today as it was when it was originally published in 1928.

Another archaeological gem is Villa Jovis, a Roman site completed in 29 AD that is accessible by a footpath and provides views of local homes and flourishing gardens along the way.

Custom sandals are a Capri tradition. Photos: Christina Ohly.

Slip into Italian Kicks
Sandals are the best retail game in town, especially those custom-made to your specifications. My favorite shoemaker is Antonio Viva, whose shop, L'Arte del Sandalo Caprese, is located on the main street in Anacapri. A larger-than-life personality, Antonio tends his shop from morning till dusk, making personalized sandals in every imaginable color and style. Go for the Roman classic, a flat sandal, or a jewel-encrusted party shoe. Either way, you'll feel like you're getting a bespoke product — in just fifteen minutes flat.

Second choice — Jackie O's favorite, Canfora. Lovely kicks, but slightly more expensive than Viva's. (You'll find even more expensive sandals throughout Capri.)

Look the Part from the Feet Up
In addition to fine footwear, Capri is also full of shops selling locally made linen items. My favorites are the sheer varieties in hues of blue and white by Puro Lino. Perfect for warm summer evenings and presents. Simple hand towels as well as linen cover-ups and clothing can be found at 100% Capri, a boutique specializing in separates in muted tones.

For pricey jewels, head to Grazia Vozza, specialists in chunky pieces made from exquisite jade, amethyst, and amber. The work of two sisters, Grazia Vozza makes statement-making pieces that will look great with the floaty caftan you'll be sporting poolside.

WHERE TO EAT

Morning Fuel
You don't exactly need "fuel" to enjoy the leisurely pace of life on Capri. We loved the breakfast spread — meats, cheeses, fruit, delicious breads, and local honey — at the Caesar Augustus' pool-level restaurant. With spectacular patios off most rooms, this is also a great spot to order room service. Croissants with a view of the Bay of Naples: not bad.

Lunch on the patio at J.K. Place. Photo: Courtesy of J.K. Place.

Lunch
Now this is the highlight of any Italian day, and much thought must go into the planning, consumption, and digestion of the meal. In Anacapri, the cliffside Lucullo Terrace at Caesar Augustus is hard to beat for its panini, light pastas, and views of Mount Vesuvius. In fact, it doesn't really matter what you eat. The scenery is truly breathtaking.

The finest overall game in town, however, is the patio at J.K. Place, situated down by Marina Grande. Lunch can last for hours (if you're lucky), as you'll be tended to by the most attentive staff, and, in many instances, by the wonderful manager, Simone Giorgi, who is happy to chat about everything from Italian football to the hotel's killer spa treatments. The meal consists of endless bread baskets (don't miss their grissini), delicious club sandwiches, and caprese salads — all with views of frolicking families on the rocky beach below. (No, you won't ever get tired of the views here.) Make time to sit by the beautifully designed pool (sans children) or hit the J.K. Spa, a sleek and peaceful sanctuary that does relaxing treatments (I'm going back for the pro-collagen quartz facial) and carries Santa Maria Novella products that I never knew existed. A day built around a meal at J.K. Place is pure bliss.

No lunch is complete without gelato. Some of Capri's finest flavors can be found at Gelateria Buonocore (35 Via Vittorio Emanuele; +39-081-837-7826) where stracciatella and chocolate hazelnut are the best bets.

Dinner
The options are endless, but a few of my favorites included Le Grottelle (Via Arco Naturale; +39-081-837-5719), a casual trattoria/pizzeria steps from the famed, monolithic Arco Naturale. This spot is reached by a gentle twenty-minute walk along the coast that begins at Tragara Point. By the time you reach the top, you are rewarded with stunning views of the Amalfi Coast and the Galli Islands, noto to mention Mama Rosa's homemade ravioli and the simply prepared catch of the day.

Family-owned Da Gelsomina is another culinary highlight recommended by the ever-tasteful staff at J.K. Place. Great views of Ischia; delicious spaghetti alla chiummenzana.

For the ultimate dose of dolce vita head straight for Faraglioni to dine under traditional pagliarelle (straw canopies) and watch the beautiful people go by. Located at the end of the elegant Via Camerelle in central Capri, this is a great spot to savor a cocktail and a fine lemon risotto.

Also fabulous: Ristorante Aurora, an island favorite that draws the likes of Giorgio Armani for Neapolitan specialties like spaghetti alle vongole and thin-crust pizzas served in a chic, if very 1970s, setting.

Slightly cheesy but no less festive is Da Paolino, where dining under twinkling lemon trees is the order of the day. The real highlight for every child (and parent) is the dessert bar for torta caprese, the island's traditional flourless chocolate cake, and gelati galore. I am still in recovery.

Photo: Courtesy of Hotel Caesar Augustus.

WHERE TO STAY

If you're looking for value, then Hotel Caesar Augustus in Anacapri wins, hands-down. Part of the Relais & Chateaux group, this hotel is somewhat off the beaten path and enjoys an ideal cliff-top location in the relatively quiet village of Anacapri. Many rooms literally jut out over the water, as does the infinity pool that overlooks an endless blue expanse. The whole effect is supremely relaxing. Everything is overseen by Lucia Garau, a seasoned hotelier who is happy to help with boat transfers, sourcing the ultimate sandals, and everything in between.

For something more intime, opt for La Scalinatella, a 30-room boutique hotel that has rooms high above the sea. With its white and azure theme, Scalinatella feels very Capri, and its quiet location ensures a peaceful escape. Lunch by the pool is a major plus.

The penthouse and sitting room at stunning J.K. Place. Photos: Courtesy of J.K. Place.

If money is no object, then a stay at J.K. Place is a no-brainer. The entire set-up — from the lobby library to the communal breakfast room to the airy suites — is pure chic. Situated on a spit of land overlooking Marina Grande, the whole J.K. vibe is one of relaxed elegance. It's the perfect place to while away days in the sun or in their world-class spa. Sip Bellinis by the pool on your tasteful lounge chair-cum-couch or feast on the restaurant's patio. Either way, this place is pure glamour.

MAP IT

See all the locations mentioned in this story. (Google Maps)

HOW TO GET THERE

Capri is not easily accessible, but it's certainly worth the effort. Fly to Rome and drive south to Naples where you will connect with a ferry to Capri (journey time approximately 5 hours). Frequent flights from London (British Airways, Alitalia, Easy Jet) to Naples make the trip easy for a long weekend.

FOR YOUR BEDSIDE TABLE

A few books and films that capture the essence of the island and surrounding area.

Books
In the Spirit of Capri, by Pamela Fiori
Red Sails To Capri, by Ann Weil
The Story of San Michele, by Dr. Axel Munthe
Greene on Capri: A Memoir, by Shirley Hazzard

Films
It Started in Naples (1960)
Paparazzi (1964)
The Talented Mr. Ripley (1999)

MORE ON FATHOM

Amalfi Coast and Capri Guide
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Guest User 7/20/13 Guest User 7/20/13

Ravello: A Breathtaking Bird's Eye View

The Amalfi Coast's villa-lined hills and glistening beaches are beautiful from any angle, but hovering at 2,000 feet, Ravello's view might just take the cake. Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly takes you there.

RAVELLO, Italy – Perched high on a hilltop overlooking the Amalfi Coast sits Ravello, a medieval village full of winding cobblestone streets, fragrant gardens, and breathtaking views of the Mediterranean.

WHAT TO DO

Ravello offers the perfect mix of culture — spectacular churches, villas, and expansive gardens — and complete relaxation in the form of delicious meals and luxurious lodgings with restorative sea views.

Relax
You will automatically dial it down in Ravello, where the day's major decisions tend to revolve around which concert to see or which catch of the day to order for lunch. Give yourself over to wandering the quiet streets and absorbing the art and culture that abounds on literally every street corner.

The view from the gardens of Villa Cimbrone.

Explore the Gardens
Don't miss the Villa Cimbrone, a massive open space comprised of lush gardens, fountains, temples, and assorted follies that overlook the sea in the distance. Lovingly restored by an English lord, Villa Cimbrone is a quirky and wonderful place to relax, have a Campari soda, and enjoy an outdoor concert. Gore Vidal once described the panorama here as "the most beautiful in the world." It would be hard to disagree.

Another spot worth visiting is the Villa Rufolo, a centrally-located former watch tower with a massive main tower, an important chapel, and a Moorish cloister with Arabic decorative elements. The piece de resistance is the promontory garden filled with fragrant blossoms that was once beloved by Wagner and is now the site of the famous Ravello music festival.

A detail of the pastel interior at the Duomo in Ravello.

Spa It Up
Several of the town's top-notch hotels offer spa treatments that become even more magical because they are performed outdoors under the shade of blossoming trees or in delicate white tents. Try Palazzo Avino or Hotel Caruso, with its holistic approach, and the truly breathtaking Monastero Santa Rosa in nearby Conca dei Marini for the chic thermal baths.

Go to Church
Ravello's cathedral, built in 1087 and home to one of the most important bronze doors in Italy, is unmissable. Behind the bright white façade is a 14th-century sarcophagus, the chapel of San Pantaleone, that's notable for the glass, gold, and silver ampulla that contains the saint's dried blood that miraculously liquifies each year. (Don't ask.) This just might have been the trip highlight for my kids.

Visit Nearby Towns
You will be tempted to never leave your hilltop perch, but several towns along the Amalfi Coast are absolutely worth the drive. Positano can get ridiculously crowded, but stop in for a lovely for a lunch at the legendary hotel Le Sirenuse, then take a short stroll down to the port.

My favorite areas, however, were the off-the-beaten-track towns Cetara and Atrani. Both are wonderful for local color, picturesque piazzas, and fantastic seafood restaurants. Acqua Pazza in Cetara is impossible to beat, and A'Paranza in Atrani serves incredibly fresh spaghetti alle vongole by the sea. Be sure to book your tables in advance.

Cathedral of the Apostle Saint Andrew in Amalfi.

Amalfi may be a gritty port town, but it's absolutely worth a visit for the Cathedral of the Apostle Saint Andrew. A mix of romanesque and baroque elements, the cathedral is reached by an imposing staircase and has a colorful facade with glittering gold mosaics. The interiors are no less impressive, with coffered ceilings, a mother of pearl crucifix, and a massive sarcophagus that is just one of the many highlights.

Photos of da Gemma courtesy of the restaurant. Photos of da Gemma courtesy of the restaurant. — Photos of da Gemma courtesy of the restaurant.

Photos of da Gemma courtesy of the restaurant.

Amalfi brims with sweet white houses, endless terraces, and winding streets full of alleys and small shops. You could spend a whole afternoon exploring La Scuderia del Duca, an incredible boutique full of papers, prints, and etchings, followed by one of the best meals you're likely to eat — in Italy or anywhere — at da Gemma. This was a Michelin-esque surprise, complete with a reinterpretation of the classic Caprese salad, as well as a pleasant terrace setting overlooking the bustling street below.

Ruin and Islands
The fascinating archaeological ruins at Pompei, the Greek temples at Paestum, and the natural beauty of chic Capri and Ischia are all ferry or car rides away.

MANGIARE BENE

Michelin stars abound here, but it was the simpler trattorias and pizzerias that captured my taste buds.

Morning Fuel
The breakfast spread at the Hotel Caruso is simply impossible to beat: house-baked bread, fruits of all kinds, lavender-infused honey, plus fluffy omelets and crispy bacon cooked to order. With the sunny patio setting, there is no reason to venture elsewhere.

Lunch
Of all the meals we ate on this gastronomic power tour, our favorite by far was lunch at the Pool Restaurant at Hotel Caruso. They pride themselves on their wood-fired pizzas — the Vesuvio with fresh rucola and tomatoes was a crowd-pleaser — and invite kids into the process of making these perfectly crusty pies. The substantial salad bar has all sorts of tomatoes, local tuna and langoustines, endless breads, and the freshest gazpacho. It is the whole relaxed feel here — under the Mediterranean pergola, overlooking the infinity pool and the mountains beyond — that makes this spot so special.

Belvedere means "lovely view," and they're not kidding. Photo courtesy of Hotel Caruso.

Dinner
Do not miss a special meal at Belvedere Restaurant, where chef Mimmo de Raffaelle made us feel like royalty with unique appetizers, interesting preparations of classic Neapolitan dishes, and the simplest grilled seafood sampling I've ever tasted. Views of the azure sea, insanely good desserts, and petits fours complete the magical experience.

Cumpà Cosimo
Just off the main piazza (Via Roma 44–46 +39 089 857-156), it's right out of a movie. The family-operated trattoria serves simple food in a relaxed setting overseen by a grandmotherly figure who just screams Italia! — meat from the family butcher, house-made pastas (gnocchi is a standout), and grilled langoustines. All delicious. Jackie O. originally made this one famous, and it is still worth a visit today.

Ristorante Pizzeria Vittoria
If you're craving a simple pizzeria with a relaxed vibe, look no further. Antipasti, lasagna, and endless variations on a pizza. Personal favorite: Ravellese, with cherry tomatoes and zucchini.

Now that's a hotel room. Photo courtesy of Hotel Caruso.

WHERE TO STAY

Hotel Caruso
The best, in my humble opinion. A former 11th-century palace that has been restored to include 48 rooms and suites, many with original architectural details and frescoes. Our room was spacious, with stunning water views and every imaginable amenity. The highlight here, however, is the incredible staff — just the kindest people I've found in any hotel, and incredibly efficient, too. Tip: Don't miss a world-class massage en plein air as well as stroll through the wisteria-laden pergola on your way to the gorgeous infinity pool.

Palazzo Avino
Another beautiful option. This former 12th-century villa houses 18th-century antiques, Frette linens, and the Lobster & Martini Bar, which, as the name implies, serves both of these delicious things as you watch the spectacular sunset.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

I'm not usually one to enlist the help of a travel agent because I prefer to go it alone. But in this instance, I relied on the help of London-based Emily Fitzroy of Bellini Travel. Her exquisite taste and firm command of the intricacies of the Italian transfer (planes, cars, ferries) made our trip seamless. She is truly an expert resource for this part of the world.

Fly: The closest international airport is in Naples Capodichino (CAP), which is roughly one hour by car. (The roads here are unpredictable at best.) Alternately, you can get to Ravello by ferry to Amalfi.

MAP IT

See all the locations mentioned in this story. (Google Maps)

MORE ON FATHOM

Amalfi Coast Guide

Guest User 1/22/13 Guest User 1/22/13

Paradise Found: Sugar Beach, St. Lucia

Contributing editor Christina Ohly was on a Goldilocks quest for the sunny holiday getaway that fit perfectly. She found it in St. Lucia.

ST. LUCIA – I am forever in search of the perfect holiday destination. One that provides a bit of sun, offers plenty of activities for a diverse family of four (parents and two tweens), serves delicious yet uncomplicated food, and is serviced by large aircraft and doesn't require intricate changes of planes. I also try to avoid places with too much poolside politicking for chair and room. I don't want to fight for a sun lounger at zero dark hundred, which I've had to do too many times in the Caribbean and Mexico. Lastly (and I swear I'm not high maintenance), I prefer to stay for a shorter time — six or so nights, and not the ten-night minimum generally required at peak holiday times. Yes, it's damn near impossible to find a spot that ticks all the boxes.

I picked Viceroy Hotel's newest resort Sugar Beach (formerly Jalousie Plantation) on a lark after reading about it in an upscale but off-the-radar travel publication because I liked the sound of intimate villas in an informal setting. I was not disappointed. The recent $100 million+ redo has resulted in minimalist, tasteful cottages with plunge pools and all the amenities I've come to rely on (WiFi, flat-screen TVs, AC) as well as charming low-tech touches (ceiling fans and atmospheric mosquito netting canopies that are drawn each night).

Sugar Beach is a completely sybaritic experience. You're waited on hand and foot — and I mean this literally, as guests are driven everywhere in Mule carts. (Mere golf carts wouldn't cut it on the the resort's steep hills.) I'm generally a pretty hearty type, but after one round trip from my room to the beachside restaurant, I got lazy like everyone else and would simply call our butler (every house has a dedicated person on call) on the small mobile phone that they give guests to arrange rides and reservations. This was the first major holiday season for Sugar Beach (read: major crush time), but I was amazed by the friendliness and efficiency of the staff, to say nothing for their ability to whisk everyone around from room to beach to restaurant with never more than a 60-second wait.

The price tag, of course, is not for the faint of heart. But on the plus side, they don't nickel and dime you for things like WiFi, replenishing the drinks in the minibar, endless hours of Kids Club time, and snorkeling/sailing equipment. So while it is extremely expensive, you feel like you get what you pay for — quality fresh food and your every whim attended to, while keeping it all low-key and casual. There's not a lot of pretense, and that's exactly what I look for in a holiday.

In fact, they did everything right. Here's the highlights reel from my week in paradise.

DAY 1 - Decompress

Rest, recover, and enjoy exquisite views of the dramatic Pitons in the distance. Regardless of where you're coming from (direct flights from the UK on British Airways and Virgin; three hours from Miami on American; occasional direct flights from New York on JetBlue), St. Lucia is a haul, and simply sitting once you arrive feels pretty wonderful. Sugar Beach whisks guests from the airport straight to their suites — no check-in or paperwork necessary — where cold drinks and a butler await. I decline the unpacking service as I feel it might take my laziness to a whole other level (though I am totally tempted), but immediately dip into my serene pool to wash away the travel grime.

We head to Bayside, the casual restaurant where you can watch fisherman haul in the catch of day. We devour wood-fired pizzas and ogle international passers-by. (Fathom fan Gywneth Paltrow, rocker Chris Martin, and their adorable kids prove impossible not to watch.) This a pitch-up-in-your-swimsuit kind of place, with terrific roti, sashimi, and assorted Creole specialties. The value-oriented consumer will appreciate the abundant lunchtime salad bar filled with beautiful, locally-sourced vegetables, mountains of marinated shrimp, and ceviche made to order. There is no rush here, and guests are encouraged to relax and listen to live music, even during peak lunch and dinner services.

With all the wonderful eating and lounging, a bit of movement is in order. Sailboats, sea kayaks, paddleboards, and snorkeling gear are all available, and brilliantly colored fish are just a gentle swim off the crescent beach. Full-on scuba trips, remote beach picnics, and water-skiing can be arranged, and the beach personnel are ready to grant your every wish (like cold Diet Coke) at the wave of a flag.

Dinner is in The Great Room in the original grand plantation building, where a more formal menu (chilled organic watermelon gazpacho, roasted snapper, steaks) is served on the sweeping porch. The best thing at the Sugar Beach restaurants is the local fish (mahi mahi, tuna, shellfish galore) served raw, tiradito, roasted, grilled, or barbecued.

Day 2 - Local Color

Days start with a breakfast buffet of local fruits, cereals, and freshly baked breads, eggs made to order, and the New York Times fax. Everything is extremely casual, and my kids loved the freedom to choose chocolate pastries, then wander over to the Kids Club to hang out.

Sugar Beach is wonderful for families. My kids generally bypass organized activities, but the people who run this Kids Club proved irresistible, with scavenger hunts, endless ping pong games, water balloon fights, and archery lessons. They won my MVP award.

The hotel pool, which was never crowded.

The pool is a large, sleek affair that, regardless of the time of day, is usually empty. The pool chairs are tasteful white, minimalist beds, and broad umbrellas allow for peaceful reading. After a morning of relaxing (are you sensing the theme?), we explored the surrounding mountainous rain forest: the drive-in volcano and a rainforest zipline tour. The excursions are a great change of scene and take about 45 minutes. I'm always a fan of local shopping — particularly at grocery stores — but I'd give it a pass here, except for a Saturday morning excursion to the nearby markets in Soufriere.

The drive-in volcano a short drive away.

Back to Sugar Beach for more pampering at the spectacular Rainforest Spa. Treatments run the gamut from hot rocks and scrubs to Ayurveda and are done in seven rooms suspended amidst the trees. I am generally one for massages and such, but this peaceful setting — and a therapist who taught me all about the island's history and the havoc wreaked by Hurricane Thomas — is unlike any other I've experienced.

Day 3 - In the Groove

Mornings are the best time for tennis (less intense sun, free courts). The kids love Titus, the local pro, so we often hit twice a day. The resort's gym — an air-conditioned house with plenty of equipment, yoga mats, and TVs — is next door and offers total privacy throughout the day. Fitness enthusiasts can take outdoor yoga classes, conditioning workshops, and hikes into the surrounding Pitons.

Another off-campus excursion worth the pricey cab ride takes us to lunch at Ladera, a resort nestled on the hilltop overlooking Sugar Beach. Their restaurant, Dashene, specializes in reinterpretations of traditional St. Lucian dishes made with locally harvested ingredients: jerk poulet sausage, sweet potato and coconut soup, and plantains with delicious rum sauce. This is not a light affair, and the views are spectacular.

Afternoons are spent in Sugar Beach's secluded gazebos or reading in any number of well-placed hammocks. The beachside bar has delicious snacks (fish tacos, pizzettas) and killer caiprinhas, so you can just park it and watch the world go by. People-watching makes for excellent sport on the small but lovely beach. The sand is imported from Ghana and the clientele that hails predominantly from the UK and Europe. I loved this global aspect of Sugar Beach best of all. We met friendly, interesting, and lovely people throughout our stay, and I felt as though we'd been to Europe as well. Bonus!

Nights are spent at the on-site restaurants, but I recommend the little-publicized Cane Bar, an impossibly hip new resort add-on with a pool table and ambient house music, for a local Piton beer and terrific sushi. It's also great for cocktails or a late night rendezvous, though I'd be lying f I said I had one of those during my stay.

Days 4-7: Rewind, Replay

The rest of the trip was a variation on a theme. If it's complete and total relaxation you're after, you'll have no choice but to do exactly that at Sugar Beach.

Fifteen back issues of The New Yorker and two novels later, I've never felt so completely Zen.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Fly: Hewannora International Airport (UVF) near Vieux Fort Quarter from Miami is a three-hour flight on American Airlines. JetBlue flies direct from New York (four hours), Delta flies from Atlanta, British Airways and Virgin Airlines fly direct from the UK.

FIND IT

Sugar Beach
Val des Pitons
P.O. Box 251 Soufriere
Saint Lucia, West Indies
+1-758-456-8000
sb.info@viceroyhotelsandresorts.com

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Christina Ohly Evans 8/30/12 Christina Ohly Evans 8/30/12

U.S. Road Trips: The South

Roadside diners, Blue Ridge mountains, Main Street, biscuits, banjos, and more. With the help of friends and admired travelers, we compiled a list of weekend road trip destinations in the southern United States. Are we there yet?

FLORIDA

Head to St. Augustine

If you're in the mood for a historic, laid-back beach town with an artists' colony vibe.
Route to take: I-95 to the Jacksonville Beaches, then scenic A1A down the coast.
Good to know: Grab lunch at the famous Columbia Restaurant, and shop for ceramics at Market to Market on historic St. George Street. Casa Monica Hotel is right in the center of the action, and those trolley tours are worth a spin, too.

GEORGIA

Head to Palmetto Springs

If you're in the mood for a weekend romp in the woods.
Route to take: I-85 south from Atlanta.
Good to know: Serenbe is a sustainable farming community and inn nestled just outside the city limits, with incredible on-site dining dens The Hil and The Farmhouse.
Read more on Fathom: Love Letter to Serenbe

Head to Savannah

If you're in the mood for a little history with your Georgia peach. Take a history-filled bike tour with Savannah Slow Ride, then nosh on fried green tomatoes and candied bacon at The Olde Pink House, a mandatory stop for old-school Southern indulgence, with jazz in the historic basement bar. Stop into Rocks on the Roof for killer views (and rose) and Moon River Brewing Company for beer tastings.
Route to take: Don't miss the peach stands on the four-hour drive from Atlanta.
Good to know: Alex Raskin Antiques (441 Bull St.; +912-232-8205) houses hundreds of antiques in an essentially untouched mansion.
Read more on Fathom: An Unforgettable Group Trip in 8 Steps

KENTUCKY

Head to Lexington

If you're in the mood for horses and bourbon. Spend a day at the track: Keeneland is a racecourse famous for the Bluegrass Stake, whose winner advances to the Kentucky Derby. Dress to impress, but save your hat for the Derby. Visit Pepper Campus, an industrial patch of land revitalized by trendy breweries, restaurants, and ice cream shops, but save room for dinner at Middle Fork Kitchen Bar.
Route to take: If you don't mind taking a little detour, head northwest from Nashville and drive through Daniel Boone National Forest before turning northeast toward Lexington.
Good to know: For real-deal Kentucky fried chicken, go to Indi's Fast Food Restaurant.
Read more on Fathom: Bourbon for Breakfast. Playing the Ponies at Lunch. Fried Chicken for the Plane Ride Home.

NORTH CAROLINA

Head to Asheville

If you're in the mood for stunning mountains, music, and eats. A perfect evening involves a nibble at Cucina 24 followed by live music at The Orange Peel. Wedge Brewery down by the railroad tracks is the best in town.
Route to take: Anything that passes through the Blue Ridge mountains. Bonus points if you make a stop along Virginia's Crooked Road heritage trail (banjo optional).
Good to know: Flex your artsy muscles at Penland School of Crafts.
Read more on Fathom: A Sweet and Smoky Food Tour of Asheville

Head to the Appalachian Forests

If you're in the mood for scenic mountainscapes across three states. Late June brings the blooming of Roan Mountain's rhododendrons. September brings stunning hues of deciduous leaves.
Route to take: Start just north of Asheville. Zip-line through the leafy canopy at Navitat; later, stretch your legs with a hike off Route 143 in Roan Mountain State Park. Don't miss a homemade Southern-style breakfast at Early Girl Eatery and a local brew at Barley's Taproom — Asheville was voted America's Beer City for the fourth year running. Drive through Roan Mountain State Park, straddling the NC-TN border.
Good to know: Bristol's main drag, State Street, has the distinction of falling along the Virginia-Tennessee border. Great burgers can be found at Burger Bar, a local institution since 1942.

Head to Wrightsville Beach

If you're in the mood for boogie boarding and flip-flops.
Route to take: Zip down from Raleigh (two hours).
Good to know: There are 44 public access points along the stretch of Wrightsville and four public parking lots with restrooms. Amenities like public volleyball nets, Vito's Pizzeria, and Rita's Water Ice are clustered around Johnnie Mercer's Pier, as are slightly bigger crowds.
Read more on Fathom: Wrightsville Beach itinerary

SOUTH CAROLINA

Head to Charleston

If you're in the mood for a culinary hotbed in the prettiest Southern town. Drop off your bags at historic Planters Inn, Fulton Lane Inn, or John Rutledge House Inn. If love is in the air, check into The Vendue (one of Fathom's Most Romantic Hotels in the USA).
Route to take: After your city fix, drive for an hour to Kiawah Island, a stunning nature preserve.
Good to know: Book tables at Husk, F.I.G., The Macintosh, The Grocery, and Butcher & Bee.
Read more on Fathom: Charleston Guide

TENNESSEE

Head to Chattanooga

If you're in the mood for Southern-style cool. Check out the chic Bluff View Art District's cafes, historic buildings, and galleries. Warehouse Row has recently become a haven for shopping, dining, and strolling.
Route to take: It's about 130 miles (or a two-and-a-half hour drive) southeast of Nashville. You can zip down I-24. If you've got a boat, you can make a grand entrance via the Tennessee River.
Good to know: Bluff View Inn has beautifully appointed rooms in three restored turn-of-the-century homes. There's a free shuttle line to help you get around the district.
Read more on Fathom: Where to Go from Nashville

Head to East Tennessee

If you're in the mood for The Great Smokies, bluegrass, and country kitsch.
Route to take: The one that leads you to Dolly's homeland.
Good to know: Hike Mount Lecont and rest your toes at Leconte Lodge. Take a spin around Dollywood during the day (your visit earns you lifelong music street cred) for rides and bluegrass music a plenty. Dine in a log cabin at Greenbrier Restaurant at night or splurge on an unforgettable meal at Blackberry Farm.

Head to Leiper's Fork

If you're in the mood for a funky little country town.
Route to take: Drive 30 minutes south of Nashville on the heavily wooded, historic Natchez Trace Parkway.
Good to know: Drop by Serenite Maison to scout antiques. Have lunch at Puckett's Grocery, a meat-and-three with nightly live music. Pick up provisions at Joe Natural's Farm Store and Cafe.
Read more on Fathom: Nashville Guide

TEXAS

Head to Jefferson

If you're in the mood for antiques and good old-fashioned biker bars.
Route to take: Just west of Texarkana, the 59 leads you in from points North or South and the 49 from the west.
Good to know: Auntie Skinner's Riverboat Club serves up the fried pickles while Allman Brothers cover bands play. The people watching can't be beat. Stay at a Victorian B&B like The Benefield House and antique your heart out at the dozens of shops on Austin Street.

Head to San Antonio

If you're in the mood for a vibrant city with a colorful history and strong culinary scene. Check into the newly opened Roman and Williams-designed Hotel Emma. Built inside an old brewhouse, the industrial-chic hotel is part of a larger cultural village on the site of what was formerly the Pearl Brewery. Dress the part in a custom-made guayabera from Dos Carolinas. (Designer Caroline Matthews is also responsible for the light blue seersucker robes at Hotel Emma.) The local food scene is top-notch: Start with globally inspired barbecue and craft beers at The Granary.
Route to take: Drive down I-35E S and I-35 S for four and half hours until you hit San Antonio.
Good to know: Skip the state's most famous battle site and spend your last day floating down the Guadalupe River with an Alamo Golden Ale in hand.

Head to Austin

If you're in the mood for hip indie hotspots alongside old-school mainstays. Stroll down South Congress Avenue and end up at Continental Club for some of the best live music Austin is so famous for. Stay for dinner at the Dart Bowl Cafe for bowling and the best enchiladas of your life. Check out the landmark Driskill Hotel and feel like a cattle baron among the cowhides and sultry music.
Route to take: Take I-35 North from San Antonio, or if you're coming from Dallas on I-35 South, stop at Lake Austin Spa Resort, a luxurious retreat just 40 minutes from downtown Austin.
Good to know: If you're feeling artsy, head to East Austin, which has managed to retain roots in art and the local community.
Read more on Fathom: Everything Old Is Cool in Austin

VIRGINIA

Ah, country life! Photo courtesy of Red Fox Inn.

Head to Middleburg

If you're in the mood for a romantic weekend with a backdrop of rolling green hills and grazing horses.
Route to take: Drive a little over an hour on Route 50 east of Washington, D.C. The charming Red Fox Inn was established in 1728 and has been visited by historical greats like George Washington, John F. Kennedy, and Elizabeth Taylor. Try The Goodstone Inn & Estate Restaurant for farm-to-table French cuisine sourced from the onsite organic herb and vegetable gardens.
Good to know: With a glass of RdV Vineyards' 2010 Lost Mountain (a cabernet sauvignon and merlot blend) at the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. The intimate winery accepts tastings by appointment only, so book in advance.

Head to Sperryville

If you're in the mood for scenic hikes and truly stellar meals.
Route to take: The 72-mile drive takes approximately two hours by car. Don't miss the scenic Skyline Drive that winds through the Shenandoah National Park and features waterfalls and starry skies. Chef Patrick O'Connell at The Inn at Little Washington oversees one of the world's only double five-diamond establishments where chawanmushi (warm, local duck egg "tea cup" custard with ginger-scented Asian tea) and carpaccio of herb-crusted baby lamb loin are the orders of the day. Once in a blissful food coma, repair to one of the historic Relais & Chateaux's sumptuous suites and take in the garden views. Bring someone special: The Inn is one of Fathom's Most Romantic Hotels in The South.)
Good to know: Check out will be depressing, so stock up at the Inn's Tavern Shop where chef O'Connell has selected exquisite kitchen items, including Laguiole knives and artisanal cheeses.

MORE FATHOM-APPROVED GETAWAYS

Have you seen our list of the Most Romantic Hotels in The South?

Special thanks to contributors Tiffany Davis, Becca Dollan, Kate Donnelly, Brooke Lewy, Laura Siciliano Rosen/Eat Your World, Beth Silverman, Caitlyn Slivinski, Christina Ohly, Kim VanderVoort.

Christina Ohly Evans 3/29/12 Christina Ohly Evans 3/29/12

Ten Best London Family Hotels

Get Your Bearings

The best family-friendly hotels are typically found in South London, which has abundant green spaces and green grocers and is close to tourist attractions. Central London is pricier, but also close to attractions. North London is slim pickings. Here are our parent- and kid-approved favorites.

South London

The Berkeley
32a Wilton Place, Knightsbridge, SW1X 7RL; +44-20-7235-6000
It has a rooftop pool. Enough said. And it's near Hyde Park, Harrods, and Yo Sushi! at the top of Harvey Nichols.

Knightsbridge Hotel
10 Beaufort Gardens, Knightsbridge, SW3 1PT; +44-20-7584-6300
One of the Firmdale hotels on a quiet square steps from Brompton Road, Hyde Park, and Beauchamp Place. Bonus points for the life-saving Pizza Express nearby.

The Milestone Hotel
Kids will love the pomp and circumstance - porters in top hats, high tea in the overly chintzy dining room - at this Kensington classic. Hyde Park, the Natural History Museum, and the hotel's subterranean, small pool are all welcome escapes on the occasional hot, summer day. Don't miss the comprehensive breakfast spread at Cheneston's where proper sausages, "soldiers" and baked tomatoes are served in a particularly English setting.

The Baglioni Hotel
This elegant property sits opposite Kensington Palace and puts you in striking distance to the Princess Diana Playground, Buckingham Palace, and the kid-centric Science Museum, as well as the mega Whole Foods on Kensington High Street. Enjoy the breakfast feast on the patio and head across the street to Wagamama for lunches of family-friendly ramen served at communal tables. Spacious second floor suites with separate sitting areas and park views are ideal for families.

Breakfast at The Baglioni. Photo courtesy of The Baglioni Hotel.

Central London

The Arch
Great Cumberland Place, Marylebone, W1H 7FD; +44-20-7724-4700
An 82-room boutique hotel perfect for exploring the shops of Bond and Regent Streets as well as the London Zoo in beautiful Regents Park. Even better, it's very affordable, especially considering the neighborhood. Kids will love burgers in the lobby Brasserie or afternoon tea in the library at this modern, somewhat hidden gem (which you'd call a "bolthole" if you were trying to be British about it).

The Athanaeum
116 Piccadilly, W1J 7BJ; +44-20-7499-3464
A family-owned hotel sandwiched between Hyde Park and Green Park and known for it's family-friendliness, down to the special kid's concierge and nannies on staff. The hotel will stock your room or apartment with kids' favorite drinks. Age-appropriate diversions range from kites, bikes, and frisbees to movies and PlayStations. For infants, organic baby food, Baby Einstein DVDs, and disposable diapers are all available.

Four Seasons London at Park Lane
Hamilton Place, Mayfair, W1J 7DR; +44-20-7499-0888
When it comes to kids, few do it better than the Four Seasons, and this newly refurbished hotel is no exception. Perfectly located near Hyde Park, kids will love the ease of access to playgrounds, ponds, and paddle boats in warmer months. Winter Wonderland, a cheesy and terrific London highlight filled with games, rides, and general holiday cheer, runs from November to January and is literally across the street. The top-notch concierges can arrange everything from horseback rides to proper high tea complete with cucumber sandwiches and sweet scones with clotted cream.

The Corinthia
Whitehall Place, Charing Cross, SW1A 2BD; +44-20-7321-3000
Well located near Trafalgar Square and Covent Garden, this grand (almost ridiculously so) new hotel is great for exploring The Crown Jewels at Tower of London, The London Eye, and a truly terrific Aquarium. River suites offer separate spacious sitting rooms as well as sweeping views of the Thames. With more than four restaurants to choose from, kids and their discerning parents can feast on everything from Cumbrian beef burgers and crisp chips at The Northall to fresh shellfish at Massimo Oyster Bar.

North London

London Marriot Hotel Maida Vale
Plaza Parade, Maida Vale, NW6 5RP; +44-20-7543-2100
Location, location, location. This one isn't full of charm, but it is perfectly placed for exploring the charming shops and restaurants of this North London area. Don't miss nearby Little Venice, an area full of houseboats and local color. If you're looking for more true Brit, Lord's Cricket Ground is just down the street.

St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel London
Euston Road, Kings Cross, NW1 2AR; +44-20-7841-3540
After a decade-long renovation, this massive Victorian gem has great family accommodations. High ceilings and ornate moldings recall the past; free WiFi and spacious rooms are modern comforts. Bonus points for the subterranean swimming pool and the fact that you're literally seconds from the Eurostar which departs from St. Pancras Station. It's a Marriott, which means you can use your miles on the rates. Just know that rooms in the older building are superior to those in the new wing.

More Affordable Options

MyHotel Chelsea
35 Ixworth Place, Chelsea, SW3 3QX; +44-20-7225-7500
Slightly mod, low-key, and absolutely well-placed near Chelsea Green. A delicious breakfast spread, proximity to great restaurants for kids (conveyor belt sushi at Itsu, perfect steak frites at La Brasserie), and St. Luke's playground are all pluses.

The Sloane Square Hotel
7-12 Sloane Square, Chelsea, SW1W 8EG; +44-20-7896-9988
This one has family rooms — a rarity in the UK and Europe — where four can fit semi-comfortably. Well-situated to Peter Jones (department store where you'll inevitably end up after having forgotten some key piece of equipment) and the King's Road. Proximity to the Duke of Yorks Square add to the appeal.

The Royal Garden Hotel
What it lacks in charm, it more than makes up for with its killer location on Hyde Park and sleekly appointed rooms. One of the more modern hotels in this residential area, it offers rooms designed for families (interconnecting options, larger suites) as well as the top floor Min Jiang restaurant. With enormous, panoramic views overlooking the park and excellent dim sum and craft cocktails, the restaurant alone is worth a detour.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Find restaurants, shops, itineraries, and things to do in our London Guide.

MAP IT

See all the hotels mentioned in this story. (Google Maps)

BUT WAIT, MORE FAMILY TRAVEL IN LONDON

Three Days in London with the Kids
Classics and Royals

Guest User 3/28/12 Guest User 3/28/12

Just Back From: Prague

Just back from: Prague, Czech Republic.

Was it your first time? Yes.

How long were you there? 36 hours.

Why did you go? I've always wanted to see this city of castles and gothic churches, and since I'm living in London, it was an easy time to visit. The flight time is less than two hours.

Who were you with? My 9-year-old daughter, Kate. She is the most curious, easy-going traveler ever.

What was the best tip you got before you left? I had been warned me about trying to visit Charles Bridge during crowded daytime hours when everything is jammed with vendors and tourists. We took an after-dinner stroll instead. It was calm, and the fairytale castle was twinkling in the distance. The second tip came from a Trip Advisor post warning that cobblestone streets are hellish on the feet, especially in the colder winter months. So we packed thick, rubber-soled shoes, and that made a huge difference.

What's the #1 tip you'd give to a friend who wanted to go? Stay at the Four Seasons Prague. It's perfectly situated for exploring the New and Old Towns, the Prague Castle, Old Town Square, and Wenceslas Square. They also completely get kids: Those in-room amenities go a long way. (My daughter is a sucker for a robe, slippers, and colored bath tints.) Oh, and bring comfortable walking shoes for sure. Those cobblestones are everywhere.

What did you do: We knocked it out in a day. First stop was the castle complex to visit the Royal Palace, the Monastery, and St. Vitus Cathedral, which has stunning stained glass windows. Then a bit of light shopping — puppets, postcards — followed by a delicious lunch at Pizzeria Rugantino. Arugula salad and prosciutto have never looked so good. Our afternoon was spent climbing the Old Tower Bridge for views of the city (this is vertigo-inducing), crossing the Charles Bridge, exploring the Jewish Quarter, and the Old Town Square. After watching the gorgeous Astronomical Clock ring, we enjoyed strudel (the local specialty) and coffee in one of the cafes along the square. After relaxing at the hotel (read: bad TV, a wonderful bath, and teatime), we headed to a festive dinner at Barock, complete with a slightly cheesy piano player. Lovely view across the street to the Jewish synagogue and cheerful service, too.

Were you there for the right amount of time? I tend to have a short attention span, so 36 hours anywhere works well for me. I would, however, love to see Prague in summer when everything is in full flower, so maybe I'll make it a whole weekend next time.

This was especially great: The castle complex at night is pretty spectacular, especially with a light dusting of snow. Think Anna Karenina meets DisneyWorld.

But this wasn't: The food, generally speaking. I had flashbacks to Russia: not too many vegetables, lots of fried things, beef goulash at every turn. My only other gripe was that there are few crosswalks, and getting slammed by a high-speed tram is a very real possibility.

Speed round of favorites.
1. Meal: Tough one. Barock is as much of a scene as Prague has to offer, and their mix of incredibly fresh sushi, typical Czech dishes, and meat was good. Any restaurant with the tagline "delicious meal and beautiful women" is going to be a hoot.

2. Neighborhood: The Jewish Quarter.

3. Site: The baroque splendor of St. Nicholas Church.

4. Café: Café Mistral. Near the hotel and perfect for a light meal and a glass of wine.

Kodak moment: Snow falling around the Old Town Square as we watched the Astronomical Clock — with its procession of the twelve apostles — ring out on the hour.

Thing you didn't get to visit: The Christmas Markets are meant to be wonderful, so I'd like to return for that sometime. The beer gardens are also supposed to be festive and fun during the summer. But next time I am going to check out The Augustine, a Rocco Forte hotel in a former monastery that still has an order of friars living on-site. Apparently, they will take you for tours around the libraries, cloister, and church.

What did you bring back? The Czech Republic is the land of marionettes, so we brought back a spectacular Pippi Longstocking puppet for Kate's room. We scored a matryoshka doll set of the LA Lakers for my son — handmade in Prague and featuring all of the players (Kobe Bryant, Lamar Odom) in one case. The perfect mix of Americana and local color!

Would you go back? Definitely.

Any surprises? It was much smaller and more walkable than I had imagined. It was also architecturally beautiful throughout — not just the famous sights. Even the offices and apartment building are spectacular in that Parisian way. I was surprised at the weird US brands that kept cropping up — TGIFridays and Hooters seem remarkably out of place amidst all the medieval, romanesque, and gothic beauty. I was also pleasantly surprised by the customs procedure at the airport — or the lack of it. No landing cards, only a cursory glance at passports, and just a big smile from the agent. Not exactly a JFK experience!

I can't stop thinking about: The spectacular view from my bed, overlooking the Vlatava River with Prague Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral in the distance.

FIND IT

Four Seasons Prague
Veleslavínova 1098/2a
110 00 Prague 1-Old Town, Czech Republic
+420-221-427-000

MAP IT

See the locations mentioned in this story. (Google Maps)

Christina Ohly Evans 1/10/12 Christina Ohly Evans 1/10/12

Just Back From: Dominican Republic

Just back from: Casa Colonial, Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic.

Was it your first time? Yes.

How long were you there? Six days.

Why did you go? We wanted to try something different in the Caribbean that had multiple flights daily and easy access from New York and Florida. We also wanted something for just six days, as opposed to the typical ten-day mandatory stay at holiday time. Casa Colonial was completely flexible about our length of stay.

Who were you with? My family (husband and two kids) and my parents.

What was the best tip you got before you left? My dental hygienist warned me not to go off-campus in this part of the DR. Sage advice. While not dangerous, it also wasn't too atmospheric outside of the hotel grounds.

What's the #1 tip you'd give a friend who wanted to go? Don't go off-campus, but do make a trip to the massive supermercado to score everything from snacks to Zithromax on aisle 1. The whole experience is just crazy and worth the trip. Note: You have to bring ID to buy anything with credit or debit cards. They check.

What did you do? We ate every meal outside and, in between, lounged on minimalist, tasteful loungers at the second-floor pool overlooking the ocean. This was interpersed with golf, tennis, a snorkeling trip, visits to the gym (the treadmills had CNN on loop), lots of reading, card playing, and just generally catching up with one another. Really interesting clientele at Casa Colonial — largely gay, a few older kids, and nary a person from the New York tri-state area. All in, refreshingly low-key.

Were you there for the right amount of time? Possibly a day too long. We tend to max out at five days of strong sun, but it was a great break nonetheless.

This was especially great: The service at the hotel. Everyone — from the waiters to the housekeepers to the concierge — tries really, really hard to please. Beds are made first thing in the morning; everyone smiles. Sometimes they misfire, but I'm all about an A for effort. Casa Colonial wants to keep customers happy, and the staff was terrific with my 9- and 10-year-old and worked with them on their Spanish words.

But this wasn't: Local vendors practically accost you on the beach selling everything from booze to jewelry to hair-braiding services.

Speed round of favorites:
Meal: Grilled local lobster tail in the main restaurant, Lucia.

Neighborhood to explore: N/a. Don't do it.

Thing you did: That supermarket comes pretty close. Weird, plentiful, serious local color.

Casual hangout: Lunch by the pool. Just six shaded tables with the best chopped salad I've had since the Ivy in LA.

Kodak moment: My kids on Christmas morning, opening their stockings.

One place you didn't get to visit, but wanted to: The fruit market. A massive outdoor labrynth/bazaar of fruit and vegetables. That and Ocean World, a massive, tacky water park that I'm sure my kids would've loved.

What did you bring back? Zithromax. And keychains for my kids.

Would you go back? Probably not as we like to mix it up and try new things. But Casa Colonial is an easy long weekend trip from New York City, so maybe sans kids sometime.

Any surprises? Lots of them. I had no idea about the geography/topography of the island. The sugar cane plantations were interesting to see, and I was especially struck by how massive and densely populated the island is. I was surprised that I didn't want to explore more — I usually love to shop and get out a bit — but this trip I was fine with relaxing and planting myself by the pool (this is actually unheard of for me). Lastly, I was surprised by the friendliness of the staff who kept drinks filled, printed our boarding passes, and didn't tell on me when I let my kids come into the tiny gym with me (generally taboo).

You can't stop thinking about: That chopped salad with the fried onion rings on top. Delicious! And just eating three meals a day as a family and really talking. This so rarely happens at home.

FIND IT

Casa Colonial Beach and Spa
Playa Dorada
Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic
+1-809-320-3232