Not the Georgetown of Your Youth: The Very Grown-Up Capella Hotel

Capella is a charming new addition to the Washington, DC, hotel scene. Guest services are at a premium, and the staff knows how to make a stay feel special but never ostentatious.

WASHINGTON, DC – It had been years since I’d spent any real time in Georgetown, the quaint Washington, D.C., neighborhood of cobblestone streets and picturesque row houses, and I was pleased to see that it has retained its charm even as it’s been spiffed up in recent years. I went in expecting the M Street of my youth — a main drag cluttered with chain stores and tourists — and instead found a contender for my new favorite urban hotel, excellent restaurants, and quiet, atmospheric side streets at every turn.

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Overview

It used to be that a luxury stay in Georgetown was synonymous with The Four Seasons, a hotel long considered a DC power breakfast spot with a killer, central location. Now there is a new, design-led addition to the five-star hotel scene, the quietly cool Capella Hotel just down the street.

With 49 sumptuously appointed rooms, the high-touch, boutique escape is tucked away next to the historic C&O Canal Towpath. It feels like a luxurious homestay — albeit one with an excellent restaurant, a rooftop terrace with sweeping views of the Potomac, a state-of-the-art fitness facility, and a staff of knowledgeable personal assistants at your beck and call. I spent 24 blissful hours here and I can’t stop raving about it to anyone who will listen.

Claims to Fame

There are so many special touches at Capella, and they begin from the minute you check in at — get this! — whatever time you choose. There is no need to request an early check-in or a late check-out because the management believes that their customer wants flexibility above all else. I tested the system by arriving at 11 a.m. and was whisked to my room without delay. There is no traditional registration. Guests are somehow knowingly greeted curbside and all paperwork is handled in a discreet, pleasant way in a casual living room setting.

The property’s sleek, modern finishes, courtesy of designer Peter Sillig, include exquisite marble floors and paneling, parquet floors reclaimed from a European schloss, and a stellar contemporary art collection with works by abstract expressionists Edvins Strautmanis and Markus Lupertz and sculptures by English artist, Collin Reid, to name a few.

From the Living Room, with its eighteen-foot ceilings, to the Grill Room, a destination restaurant, to the clubby, cozy Rye Bar that draws a discreet, local crowd, the Capella feels like a hidden gem. Yet it is mere steps from the bustling intersection in the heart of Georgetown, M Street, and Wisconsin Avenue.

The private rooftop lounge at the Capella Hotel. 

The indoor/outdoor rooftop pool at Capella.

What’s on Site

The area is culturally rich — Georgetown University, The Kennedy Center, the Smithsonian museums — so, of course, you must leave the premises, but you will be hard-pressed to do so. Capella is just so peaceful, so cossetting, that it makes for a perfectly self-contained 48-hour stay.

The private rooftop lounge has an indoor/outdoor pool and a fire pit. Rye Bar on the first floor offers an excellent selection of craft cocktails and rare whiskeys to whet the appetite for the Grill Room next door. The soothing dining room — all hues of grey and aubergine — serves breakfast, lunch, brunch (that must be booked well in advance), and formal dinner.

I found the fitness facilities to be sufficient — an elliptical machine, a treadmill, and a bike overlooking the spires of Georgetown University and the National Cathedral. The truly motivated can go to a yoga studio and a more comprehensive gym nearbby.

There is no spa by design, as the management decided that in-room services were preferable for their clientele, but everything, from a simple pedicure to a haircut by noted stylist Luigi Parasmo, can be arranged with a few hours notice. Resident stylist April Yvonne is at the ready if the need arises for a frock to wear to the Kennedy Center or for after-hours access to Neiman Marcus. A personal assistant on staff specializes in cultural experiences like walk-on roles for children at The Washington Ballet and behind-the-scenes tours of Mount Vernon. In short, every request can be accommodated. 

Perhaps the biggest on site asset is Jason Denby, director of guest relations, who is incredibly attuned to his guests’ needs and knows how to make a stay feel special but never ostentatious.

The Grill Room restaurant at Capella.

The Food

One of the stars of the show at Capella is The Grill Room, a modern European restaurant with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the C&O Canal. Outdoor seating (with wool blankets and heat lamps when it’s chilly) lend it a European vibe, and executive chef Frank Ruta (formerly of the White House) creates everything from a terrific burger with shoestring fries to a refined Dover sole with passionfruit sabayon, leeks, and pea shoots. Familiar comfort foods — a wedge salad, thick cut pork chops — are thoughtfully tweaked and paired with delicious sides like oven-roasted potatoes and root vegetables drizzled with a warm anchovy balsamic vinaigrette.

A private dining room that seats up to eighteen guests is set like a glass-walled library at the center of the restaurant and would be a wonderful place to host a special event. Light bites — plates of salumi to share, artisanal cheeses, and freshly baked chocolate chip cookies — are available in The Rye Bar. Oh, and room service delivers a mean pasta Bolognese, as confirmed by my hungry teen who ordered it at an insane hour.

In the Room

All the rooms and suites have a separate sitting area with desk, a soaking tub, flat screen TVs, plush beds, and comfortable furnishings in shades of cream and grey.   

Spacious bathrooms have two sinks, plentiful mirrors, and rainfall showers and some have canal views. Other thoughtful touches include free WiFi, beverages, and newspapers of choice, as well as coffees, teas, and Keurig machines for brewing at all hours.

Room with a View

I stayed in a superior king room, a spacious 420 square feet overlooking 31st Street and the hotel entrance. This doesn’t sound lovely, but it was surprisingly quiet and there was abundant light. I liked seeing the small Italian restaurant across the street and the Potomac River in the distance.  

In an ideal world, I’d love to stay in one of two 1,200 square-feet Presidential Suites ($7,000 per night) for the full living rooms, stocked pantry areas, fireplaces, and, yes, the expansive views.  

This Place Is Perfect For

Business travelers, parents dropping kids off at Georgetown University, foodies, families who need large suites and interconnecting rooms, and couples looking for a romantic getaway. Capella has seriously wide appeal, and can work for a solo traveler as well as it did for the multi-generational family celebration that prompted my visit.

But Not So Perfect For

Anyone looking for a scene or travelers who like a sprawling hotel with all the bells and whistles.

Rates

Superior king rooms start at $495 a night. 

The superior king room.

Presidential suite inspiration.

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Neighborhood Vibe

Georgetown is a bustling, walkable, college town. Get out and enjoy it.

What to Do Nearby

One block from the hotel is busy M Street, which has all the basics: pharmacies, Dean & Deluca (excellent spot for picnic provisions), lots of shops. A few more blocks away are N and O Streets, with their sweet, historic brick homes and well-manicured trees. Still further is Dumbarton Oaks, a stately house museum with gardens that makes for a great wander before hitting the Georgetown University campus at the corner of 37th and O Streets.

DC’s biggest annual events are the Cherry Blossom Festival, which begins at the end of March and is an occasion for an array of cultural activities as well as beautiful blooms, and the Fourth of July fireworks from the Mall, which some of the best in the country. July 4 guests will have a perfect, calm vantage point — cocktail in hand — from the Capella’s rooftop terrace.

Food is a major area focus. Nearby Fiola Mare in Georgetown Harbor serves incredible Italian seafood along the Potomac. Chez Billy Sud is a lovely spot for an intimate French meal. Café Milano is the go-to for all kinds of crudi. Obelisk in nearby Dupont Circle serves simple Italian fare in a charming townhouse setting. Sushi Taro offers a traditional kaiseki experience. Gourmands should take advantage of Capella’s ability to score a reservation at Minibar, molecular gastronomist José Andrés’ superb but tiny restaurant that offers a multi-course, fully immersive dining extravaganza. 

Good to Know

Consult the Georgetown University schedule to avoid Parent’s Weekend and graduation. Also, get comfortable with taxis and walking everywhere, as the DC Metro doesn’t stop in the vicinity.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

How to Get There

The Capella is a fifteen-minute taxi ride from Union Station (Amtrak) and Washington Reagan International Airport. The hotel’s personal assistants are very good at gauging traffic patterns and arranging taxis accordingly. When possible, they will have you driven in the hotel’s complimentary car that waits outside.

Getting Around

Parking in this part of Washington is a nightmare, so it’s best to explore the area on foot. Excellent restaurants, the scenic C&O Canal, the Georgetown University campus, and the particularly lovely N and O streets are all just a few blocks away.

Arne Sorenson’s dining boltholes

The president and CEO of Marriott International oversees a portfolio that includes The Ritz-Carlton, Edition and Bulgari hotels and last year reported revenues of nearly $14bn

“I try to avoid fancy restaurants when entertaining clients. I prefer places with authentic food and a casual atmosphere. That’s either Mon Ami Gabi near our HQ in Bethesda, Maryland, or Le Diplomate in Washington DC – two classic French bistros with excellent steak-frites and big sharing plateaux de fruits de mer.

I grew up in Japan so sushi and sashimi are comfort food for me. Makoto in Washington DC’s attractive Palisades neighbourhood is a 20-seat hidden gem with a traditional yet sleek feel and an outstanding omakase menu. Pearl Dive Oyster Palace in the 14th Street corridor is less formal. I actually like a bit of noise during a work meal – not a pounding soundtrack, but the energy of the people in the room – as it intensifies our discussions. This vibrant area is important historically too: it was burned down in 1968 after the assassination of Martin Luther King and has been revitalised with new restaurants and brew pubs that bring real colour to the capital.

I find partners and investors visiting from outside the US want meals to be just so – Michelin stars and impressive settings. For these occasions I’ll travel an hour outside the capital to The Inn at Little Washington, where chef Patrick O’Connell prepares delicious multicourse meals that might include soft-shell crab tempura or Peking duck with sour cherries. I shared one particularly memorable evening here with Tom Hutchison, then CEO of CNL, the real-estate investment trust that was acquiring some of our property.  

Much of the negotiating with Ian Schrager regarding the formation of our Edition hotels took place at the Four Seasons in New York. Something about the place just says “let’s resolve this”. We had many intense one-to-ones over lunch – often in 45-60 minutes.

I do a lot of business over breakfast and one of our most important deals – with South Africa’s Protea Hospitality Holdings – was established over strong cappuccinos at New York’s Essex House. CEO Arthur Gillis and I sat at a corner table and really got to know one another. We just hit it off. This was the first step in a long collaboration that ultimately led to term sheets and acquisitions.

In London I like the buzz at The Wolseley. If I’m seeking to make a more personal connection I’ll head to The River Café for its unmatched Italian food and light-filled space. As we are a big operator in sub-Saharan Africa I also spend a lot of time in Cape Town, where the avant-garde Test Kitchen is excellent for fun group dinners. We might start with oysters then follow the chef’s experimental tasting menu, which always sparks lively conversation. I love the mix of high-end cuisine and casual warehouse setting.

In Asia there is a ritual to business dinners and the best deal-making restaurants tend to be in hotels. I have shared countless meals with prospective investors and partners in the private rooms at Tin Lung Heen in The Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong. My guests always respond well to the traditional Cantonese cuisine and incredible harbour views. In Japan, however, my host will often take care of the evening’s arrangements – right down to the karaoke. Inagaki in Tokyo is a tiny, convivial spot favoured for bowls of oden, while Tofuya-Ukai serves wonderfully authentic tofu in a lovely garden.

Meals aren’t a soft excuse for splurging and they can be everything from intense to celebratory, but they are a huge part of the way I do business.”

Finally! A Hotel We Can Love in Notting Hill

Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly has lived in London on and off for years. Now based in NYC, she recently checked in to a Victorian townhouse in London's Notting Hill that's been updated with stylish modern charm, a serious art collection, and a killer chef serving snacks behind the bar.

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Overview

You may know the areas in and around London's W2, W8, and W11 post codes as Kensington and Notting HIll, but I consider them my second home. I've never been able to find anywhere (at least of a certain standard) to stay when visiting, until the recent opening of The Laslett, a chic boutique hotel spread across five gorgeous, stucco-fronted townhouses in Pembridge Gardens. Design-led touches — modernist furniture and fabrics, a curated ground-floor boutique, Samsung LED TVs, and classic British antiques and objets d'art sourced by Jerome Dodd of Les Couilles du Chien — make this unique hotel feel like a cozy home away from home.

Claims to Fame

The lobby, library, bar, and rooms are filled with art by British favorites like Barbara Hulanicki and Barry Kamen, giving the hotel a gallery feel.The Laslett is home to Henderson Bar, named after Russell Henderson, founder of the famed Notting Hill Carnival and creator of the bar's signature rum-based cocktail. Henderson Bar is also where you'll find the culinary genius of Sally Clarke on full, glorious display in her first food foray outside her eponymous restaurant. The overall design is another claim to fame: The Laslett is a collaboration between luxury specialist Living Rooms and interior design firm Waldo Works, who have peppered the rooms with cool custom finishes and contemporary furniture by UK brands like Race Studio and Pinch.

What's on Site

Henderson Bar, which serves as the breakfast room, café, and cocktail lounge, is a lovely place to savor a cup of Workshop Coffee Company's strong brew or take down an orchard (a fresh-pressed apple, lemon, and ginger concoction) with one of Sally Clarke's perfectly flaky pains au chocolat. The library's literary offerings are another bonus, as is the shop's creative mix of jewelry by Les Glorieuses, art tomes, assorted knickknacks, and Neal's Yard Remedies creams and gels.

The Food

There is no formal restaurant, but guests can order platters piled high with Neal's Yard cheeses and charcuterie and Sally Clarke's delicious baked goods and homemade muesli at breakfast. You know parents are behind this operation, as there is a dedicated children's menu offering pizzettes, toasted sandwiches, and ice cream all day. The Laslett is perfect for craft cocktails and heavy hors d'oeuvres, but neighboring restaurants like The Ledbury, Wolfe, and Pizza East are the real culinary draw.

Room with a View

The 51 rooms, including eight suites, are set across five townhouses in a soothing Scandinavian palette on the quiet, tree-lined surroundings of Pembridge Gardens. Master bedroom suites are the way to go: Several have separate living room spaces, making them ideal for families. Double bedrooms offer value for money (as the Brits say) with beautiful finishes like bespoke light fixtures by Nocturne Workshop, sumptuous textiles by Eleanor Pritchard, and a full array of Neal's Yard Remedies and plush robes for use in the state-of-the-art bathroom. Ask for a garden-facing room to capitalize on the great natural light (whenever possible) and absorb the West London neighborhood feel.

This Place is Perfect For

Local color. The Laslett is a gem for design junkies and anyone who wants to feel like they are staying at the home of a stylish, slightly boho British friend. It's perfect for lovers of good literature: Each room is outfitted with copies of Penguin classics like Mrs. Dalloway and The Canterbury Tales.

But Not So Perfect For

Anyone looking for that polished Mayfair five-star experience. The Laslett is all about stylish charm, not fine porcelain and starched linens.

Notting Hill has always been cool, but the W2 area has seen a major resurgence in popularity over the past few years due to its incredible restaurants and cafes, proximity to shops on Westbourne Grove and Ledbury Road, and beautiful parks like Kensington Gardens.

What to Do Nearby

Kids will love Diana Memorial Playground at the top of Kensington Gardens. Anglophiles of all ages should flock to Kensington Palace — Will and Kate's former abode — for tea time at Orangery. Saturday mornings are all about Portobello Market, where dedicated scavengers find all kinds of bits and bobs — antique nautical equipment, hotel silver, vintage toys — before heading to Electric Cinema for lunch and screenings of the latest films in comfy leather chairs.

Food is a major focus in this area, and Granger and Farm Girl are two of the best breakfast spots in any London post code. Book a table at Clarke's on picturesque Kensington Church Street, where Sally Clarke serves unbelievably delicious set menus of Devonshire crab, organic lamb, British and Irish cheeses, as well as trifles, tarts, and decadent chocolate tortes. Books For Cooks remains one of the best foodie bookshops on the planet, and E&O next door is still a great spot for people watching and prawn and chive dumplings.

For more shopping, head to Kensington High Street for the world's best, most civilized Whole Foods, or entertain yourself at nearby Print Room, an eclectic theatre company housed in the iconic Coronet Theatre at Notting Hill Gate.

BOOK IT

Rates start at £275. Click here for reservations.

FIND IT

The Laslett
8 Pembridge Gardens
Notting Hill, London W2 4DU
+44-0-20-7792-6688
reservations@thelaslett.co.uk

Stunning Opulence in Arty Aix-En-Provence at Villa Gallici

If exceedingly elegant and luxurious travel is your style, then add Villa Gallici in Aix-En-Provence to your increasingly long list. (Don't you love us for how we help you with that list?) Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly visits and finds the renovated beauty even better than expected.

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Overview

AIX-EN-PROVENCE, France – Just a 15-minute walk from the bustling Cours Mirabou in the heart of Aix, you'll find the 22-room, ultra-luxe, terra cotta dream that is Villa Gallici. The original 18th-century palazzo-inspired building has been lovingly restored by the Italian Baglioni Hotels group and is also part of the Relais & Châteauxconsortium, so every Mediterranean touch feels just right — from the extremely friendly and knowledgeable concierges (none of my bizarre questions about faience shopping proved too much for them) to the refined Provençal cuisine served on the restaurant's atmospheric terrace. Villa Gallici is the perfect oasis from which to explore neighboring Romanesque churches, Mont Sainte-Victoire (Cézanne's inspiration), and some of the most vibrant outdoor markets in the south of France.

Claim to Fame

One of the villa's main draws is the plane tree-shaded piscine. A huge plus in the searing summer heat, it's an ideal spot to while away a lazy afternoon. A day at the pool will leave you refreshed for Villa Gallici's stellar cuisine and the vast wine list overseen by maitre d'hotel Stephane Gilbert, who is happy to arrange tastings throughout the gardens and guide guests through the villa's extensive cellars.

What's on Site

Villa Gallici is set amid seven lush acres of jasmine- and lavender-laden gardens with secret pathways and an incredible statuary collection. So good is the cache of bronze sculptures here that you can almost count this as a cultural excursion and therefor be forgiven for just parking it on property. The villa's refreshing pool — with its brilliant red umbrellas — and the small but fantastic spa (treatments include cryosurgery and Guinot facials) are thoroughly restorative. If you're feeling the need to burn off a little of last night's seared foie gras (don't miss this indulgence), the hotel's recently added fitness facility will put you through a light workout.

The Food

People flock from near and far to sample the creative, locally sourced cuisine in the formal restaurant and the more casual fare served on the relaxed candle-lit terrace. While all of the cooking is rooted in a classic French style — local poached fish, roasted lamb, delicately fried zucchini, and ice cream flavored with anise — there is an emphasis on beautiful vegetables as well as lighter sauces and preparations.

If you have only one meal here, make it the expansive breakfast spread on the patio beside spectacular, 100-year-old cypress trees. Lavender honey, crispy croissants with local jams, and delicious cappuccinos are a fantastic way to start the day. (Throw in their perfect egg white omelette, and this could be my Death Row meal.)

In the Room

Check your modernist aesthetic at the door and embrace the sumptuous, Louis XV surroundings found in many of the 22 rooms, suites, and communal sitting spaces. Each of the recently renovated rooms features toile, chintz, and seriously luxurious linens. Well-stocked minibars mean cold Diet Cokes and salty snacks are within range, and the technology — WiFi, TVs (sacre bleu!) — is top-notch, as expected by the Villa's discerning, ever-connected clientele.

This Place Is Perfect For

Maximalists of all ages. Families, newlyweds seeking seclusion, foodies, and lovers of art history will all rejoice at this ornate hospitality extravaganza.

But Not So Perfect For

Minimalists. One must embrace the slight ostentation and revel in the gilt finishes and multiple shades of crimson at every turn.

Room with a View

Every room affords a view onto the exuberant gardens, but the Superior 8 room — with its four-poster bed and hand-painted wallpaper — is among the best. On my next visit, I hope to stay in Suite 20, a split-level space with an upstairs living room swathed in soothing, cream-colored hues with the scent of orange blossoms filling the air.

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What to Do Nearby

You won't want to ply yourself away from this cosseting premises, but you must for the historical, culinary, and retail discoveries that await.

Start with a visit to the cloisters at Aix's Cathédrale Saint-Saveur before wandering the city streets that inspired Cézanne, Camus, and Hemingway, among many other artistic and literary greats. The Saturday outdoor markets, with their piles of lavender, mushrooms, gorgeous eggplant, and locally produced chèvre and honey, are full of local flavor, as is the Musée Granet, with its outstanding collection of nine paintings by local hero Paul Cézanne. Another worthy detour is Atelier Paul Cézanne, a light-filled studio that looks as if the Impressionist artist were recently in residence.

The nearby Sextius Thermal Baths are the place to take restorative hydrotherapy treatments, followed by a meal and a digestif at La Rotonde, or at Brasserie des Deux Garcons, an institution in Aix that is the ideal spot for sipping pastis and watching the world pass by.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

How to Get Here: If you're coming by train from Paris, Aix is an easy ride on the high-speed TGV. If you're flying, Marseilles Provence Airport (MRS) is the closest airport. It's nine miles from the train station and sixteen from the airport to Villa Gallici.

BOOK IT

Rates start at €205. Click here for reservations.

Hôtel de Tourrel, Provence

A boutique bolthole housed in a 17th-century palais complete with rooftop pool and gourmet restaurant

When I think of the sun-soaked village of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, images of Van Gogh, fields of lavender and sweet calissons – the local nougatine treats – all spring to mind.

Design-led hotels that are as chic as anything one might find in Paris haven’t always been synonymous with these historic streets, and so I was delighted to discover the Hôtel de Tourrel housed in a 17th-century palais on a recent visit to the area.

We took refuge from the midday heat in the restaurant (first picture), where the Mediterranean-inspired menu is overseen by chef Benoit Fauci (formerly of the Michelin-starred Les Chênes Verts in Tourtour) and changes weekly in accordance with market finds. Chef Fauci works exclusively with village suppliers to create three-course meals at lunch (€48, with cheese or dessert) and dinner (€58), only offering two options for each course, each one executed deftly.   

Our meal began with a charcuterie plate for sharing, followed by a soup of onions and green vegetables topped with an egg parfait. Slices of tender cabillaud(cod) with brightly coloured piperade was another standout dish. The garnishes were as beautiful as they were tasty, with delicate tempura-battered blossoms and fennel slaw adding an unexpected edge to more traditional dishes such as duck. The fruitcake with homemade glacé and wild strawberries was outstanding.

After our meal, owners Margot Stangle and Ralph Husgen – an architect and advertising executive who have lovingly restored the exquisite property – let me peek into a few of the seven suites (from €350-€690, July and August, example second picture). Light and airy, original features – such as Strecco – have been kept, but whitewashed walls, parquet floors and a midcentury aesthetic lend a hip, streamlined vibe. Atop the building sits a rooftop pool that’s temptingly plungeworthy.

Had I known about this boutique bolthole sooner, I most certainly would have booked a stay, but as it is, the Hôtel de Tourrel gives me reason to return.

For alternative places to stay in Provence, try Domaine de Baume, or for something a bit more sporty in the region, this outstanding golf clinic would be worth a visit.

Double the Fun Meets Double the Flavor in Provence

If your French country vacation fantasy involves a beautiful and intimate hotel, unforgettable meals both elaborate and simple, and cultural diversions to entertain you or peace and quiet to soothe you, you might find yourself at the newly merged hotels Oustau de Baumanière and La Cabro d'Or in Les Baux-de-Provence.

LES BAUX-DE-PROVENCE, France – The last time I was in the bucolic area surrounding St. Rémy-de-Provence, it was with a one- and two-year-old in tow, so some of the mystique — and particularly the culinary magic — was lost on me. I didn't have time to savor lengthy meals — from simple, wood-fired pizzas on St. Rémy's town square, to sumptuous, multi-course meals at Oustau de Baumanière, the renowned temple of haute cuisine in nearby Les Baux-de-Provence. I managed to eat well, of course, but the entire visit was something of a blur.

On my recent visit, however, I got to see the surrounding Roman ruins, shop markets bursting with fresh lavender and local honey, and languish in the postcard-perfect pool.

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Overview

The newly merged Baumanière and sister property La Cabro d'Or together comprise 56 guest rooms that give this property an intimate, authentic bastide-esque feel. The hotel has been owned by the same family for generations and everything operates like a small country inn, albeit one with seriously luxe, Relais & Chateaux touches. Spacious, simple rooms in neutral palettes capitalize on the Provençal light, and all feature views of the surrounding lush gardens and rocky Baux Valley.

What's New

The two boutique hotels merged in March 2015, but none of the special flavor of each has been lost. Instead, there are three discreet pools to choose from as well as a lower-key food offering (that is no less delicious) at La Cabro d'Or.

What's On Site

Wi-Fi is beside the point, as you'll really want to disconnect here. But for the hardcore, connectivity is easy. The spa is a real draw, and sybarites flock here for beauty and wellness treatments like gentle scrubs with Valmont products and restorative massages. Time did not allow for a visit to the sumptuous spa, but I've added this to my list for a subsequent visit. The hammam looked beyond wonderful. Sport is limited to lawn games like petanque, with maybe a game of tennis thrown in to burn off last night's €210 tasting menu. The property is strewn with beautiful bougainvillea, jasmine, and plane trees that are so much a part of southern France that you'll find it difficult to leave to explore the area's rich history.

The Food

Food is certainly the central focus at both properties. People pilgrimage to Oustau de Baumanière for chef Jean-Andre Charial's elaborate offerings that have lightened in recent years to reflect people's desire for delicious yet healthful cuisine. Exquisitely simple fruits and vegetables — locally sourced asparagus, artichokes, wild strawberries — as well as red mullet, succulent duck, and risottos are all prepared in inventive ways.

At La Cabro d'Or, chef Michel Hulin prepares gorgeous steamed sea bass with tajine-like vegetables, rack of lamb, and a cheese course that will not soon be forgotten — all in the most magical, plein air patio setting.

The wines are central at both restaurants, with Oustau's cellar containing more than 60,000 bottles of some of the world's finest vintages including great Bordeaux like Pétrus, d'Yquem, Haut-Brion, and Lafite. Rare Champagnes include Krug's Clos du Mesnil and d'Ambonnay, as well Dom Perignon Oenothèque. But for me, a glass of simple, locally produced rose sipped on the terrace at sunset is by far the way to go.

In the Room

The 56 rooms here range from cozy classics suitable for two to expansive suites and prestige rooms that can accommodate three or more. The décor is Provençal chic: white-washed walls, terracotta and natural wood finishes, and luxurious linens. Each space has been updated with sleek TVs and air conditioning — a must as the temperatures soar in July and August.

This Place Is Perfect For

Foodie couples who might want a bit of culture, but really want a relaxing, restorative experience. Ideal as a three-day weekend from the U.K. or elsewhere in Europe as it is easily accessible by Marseille, just minutes away.

But Not So Perfect For

Families with small children. The management can certainly attend to little people — special meals are always an option and excellent babysitters are in plentiful supply — but the point is to savor the silence, the sun, and, most importantly, the excellent food. Meals can last hours, and this doesn't typically jive with the under-five set.

Room with a View

I've stayed at both Oustau and La Cabro d'Or, and while it is impossible to go wrong at either property, Oustau has a certain magic that I will return for time and again. I stayed in a deluxe room with a terrace which was absolutely lovely — especially with the early morning floral scents wafting in — but I'd really love to load it up in an expansive suite with a separate living room for that home stay feel.

CHECKING OUT

The Surroundings

One could simply park it in Les Baux-de-Provence, a sweet village set atop a barren plateau in the Alpilles — and just take in the expansive views of the Camargue and Arles in the distance. Resist the temptation to sit poolside and get up to go explore the medieval castle and spare St. Catherine's 12th century church in town. Sixteenth-century mansions-turned-museums like Yves Brayer and the Louis Jou Fondation are worth a visit for their art collections and architecture.

What to Do Nearby

In the immediate area, you'll want to hit the medieval fortress, the Val d'Enfer, and Carrières de Lumière (Quarries of Light). Must-sees in St. Rémy-de-Provence include the archeological site Glanum and the cloisters of Saint-Paul de Mausole. Château of Barbegal in nearby Fontveille is also worth a detour, as are the arenas and amphitheatres of Arles. The Fondation Vincent Van Gogh is another Arles highlight, while lovers of contemporary art and design should make a beeline for the Frank Gehry and Annabelle Selldorf-designed LUMA Foundation, for photography, painting, film, and more.

It's virtually impossible to get a bad meal in this part of the world, and even the simplest pain bagnat and Nicoise pizza are consistent crowd pleasers. Au Bistrot Marin (68 Avenue de la Vallée des Baux) and La Place in the quaint village of Maussane-les-Aplilles are worth a detour for a decadent lunch. Le Bistrot du Paradou is a must for authentic country fare in a relaxed setting. This simple country house is quintessential Provence (at least to this American), complete with a warm wood and tile interior and dishes such as roast chicken with crispy, salty skin, and pommes Dauphinoise.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

How to Get There

Marseille Provence Airport (MRS), at an hour's drive, is the nearest airport. Directs flights from the United States are available into Nice Côte d'Azur Airport (NCE), approximately a two-hour drive away.

Getting Around

A car is a must for exploring the area. Note that roads are winding and have been known to induce car sickness in the faint of stomach.

BOOK IT

Rates start at €200. Click here for reservations. 

New Mexico’s Inn of the Five Graces

Five-star kitsch marries secluded calm in this haute hippie bolthole

In summer, there are few places I love escaping to more than the High Desert Southwest area surrounding Santa Fe and Taos, New Mexico. I have visited this haute hippie part of the US several times over the past 25 years, and my most recent visit took me to The Inn of the Five Graces (about $425-$2,500 per night, first picture), a 24-room boutique bolthole.

The name “Five Graces” refers to the idea that the five senses are all vitally important to one’s enjoyment of life, and, from the scent of piñon trees to the authentic adobe buildings decorated with vibrant textiles, exotic antiques and colourful tile work, a stay here is an exercise in glorious sensory overload.

The Inn’s owner-curators, Ira and Sylvia Seret, source furnishings, decorative objects and linens from central and south Asia, and many of the suites – with names such as Luminaria, Firebird, Lapis, Jasmine and Persimmon – feature a mix of Afghan dhurries, Tibetan artefacts and Turkish kilims, as well as intricately embroidered Indian fabrics (second picture). My bathroom was vast and adorned with elaborate mosaics designed by Seret herself. In the main room, a traditional kiva fireplace (third picture) was perfect for one chilly summer evening.

During the day, being outside is everything, and the Inn’s secluded patios and shaded gardens were my favourite place to relax – from enjoying a breakfast of huevos rancheros (eggs, black beans, avocado and chilies on a tortilla) to tucking into a pitcher of margaritas and homemade tortilla chips and guacamole at the end of the day.

At Five Graces, the old west meets the far east with brightly coloured panache. The riot of colour and texture is not for everyone, but lovers of exuberant style will find this hotel the perfect spot from which to explore the surrounding pueblos and galleries.

For culinary inspiration in New Mexico, try this hippy mountain hideaway or book into this izakaya-style restaurant in a Japanese-style farmouse.

The hidden wonders of the Casa Cavia in Argentina

Shop, dine and recline in Buenos Aires’ hottest new space

Across from the leafy Plaza Alemania in Buenos Aires’ Palermo Chico neighbourhood is the latest addition to that city’s vibrant culinary, cultural and retail scene. Part-concept shop, part-restaurant, Casa Cavia is set in a beautiful, whitewashed mansion and is now overseen by creative director and owner Lupe Garcia. From the street, an arched entryway (first picture) leads to a series of unexpected spaces and airy courtyards where sleek finishes create a Paris-meets-South America aesthetic.

My first stop was the store’s tiny but well-curated bookshop (third picture), overseen by Ana Mosqueda of Ampersand Publishers. A mix of titles by the great Argentine writers, as well newer coffee-table tomes line the shelves. From there you can smell the pain au chocolat and espresso wafting from Próspero Velazco’s pâtisserie next door.

The main courtyard has been given over to Casa Cavia’s casual restaurant (second picture), where the soaring central space is dotted with minimalist lighting and Bertoia-esque chairs – a study in spare chic – setting the stage for sophisticated yet accessible food. Our group feasted on pasta pomodoro, a spinach salad piled high with Parmesan cheese and soft-boiled egg, and a stacked club sandwich made with local jamón. A salad of quinoa and grilled langoustines passed by too late, but looked delicious. A return trip to try chef Pablo Massey’s decadent chocolate ganache is definitely in order. The food was the unexpected hit: I came to explore the boutiques and left a fully sated fan of Casa Cavia’s fresh creative cuisine.

Last, but certainly not least, are two small boutiques that are studies in streamlined simplicity. Flores Pasión flowers features exquisite arrangements of lilies and wild roses – most in a single colour palette – while Julian Bedel’s Fueguia 1833 offers exquisite glass bottles filled with floral scents sourced from the rainforests of Brazil and the peaks of Patagonia.

Designed by London- and San Francisco-based firm Kallos Turin, Casa Cavia is bit of design perfection as far as I’m concerned. Garcia has even bigger plans for the future, with a series of rotating art exhibitions in the pipeline. Until then, this lovingly renovated townhouse remains BA’s one-stop shop for delighting the senses.

Read more about Fueguia 1833 perfumery, or get more inspiration for a long weekend in Buenos Aires.

White Hart, Connecticut

A picturesque, historic inn is restored to its former glory in Salisbury, New England

Litchfield County, Connecticut, may not be short of picturesque, historic inns, but few are more charming than the recently reopened White Hart Inn in Salisbury. Situated on the village green in the heart of this quintessential New England town, the White Hart has served as a social and culinary hub since opening in 1806. Abruptly closed in 2010, the White Hart was recently rescued by part-time village residents Meredith and Conley Rollins, and with the help of an all-star roster of investors (that includes local writers and artists, such as Malcolm Gladwell), returned to its position as a community lynchpin.

The new incarnation is a delight on many levels, but chief among them is the food, served in both the casual Tap Room – the inn’s original tavern – and in the elegant main dining room (opening next weekend, 13 Feb). This is due in no small part to British chef Annie Wayte’s menus, some of which are inflected with UK touches (her impressive CV includes stints at Clarke’s, and she opened Nicole’s in London and Café 202 in New York and London).

Our group of six enjoyed a wonderful, wintry lunch that began with soups of the day (lentil with bacon and a delicate potato and leek puree; $8), scotch eggs with pink chorizo and panko ($7), and a warm sweet onion and gruyére tart ($8). Main dishes may sound basic, but they are anything but: hearty and artisanal grilled cheese with housemade potato crisps ($8); baked eggs with prosciutto and cheddar ($10), and a traditional ploughman’s lunch ($14). The White Hart’s version of the patty-melt burger – accompanied by thick cheddar and crispy dill pickles - might just be the most sublime version I’ve ever tasted.

On the day of our visit, the dining room was also testing new dishes and we were treated to a preview of tasting plates of crab, avocado and oro blanco salad with freshly baked chilli flatbread ($15), a hearty vegetable curry with apple raita and basmati rice ($24), and a luscious butterscotch pot de crème.

The owner/investors aim to return this landmark to its place as a community cultural hub, and talks and events are planned for the months ahead. Also in the works is a marketplace to stock up on locally sourced jams, cheeses, and chocolate.

Sadly I wasn’t staying the night, but a peek into several of the 16 rooms (example, first picture) revealed crisp white linens, enormous soaking tubs, and CO Bigelow accoutrements; temptation enough to book a return – overnight – trip.

Where to Stay Now: Miami's Hot New Boutique Hotels

Miami is topping our hotlist of hot places to travel in 2015 in no small part because of all the great new hotels that are opening. Contributing editor Christina Ohly gives us the rundown of four of the best new ones.

MIAMI – Everyone and their mother is building or has recently opened a sleek, design-led hotel in South Beach. They all pay homage to Miami's rich architectural history, but differ slightly in tone, finishes, and food options. I spent a week in Miami checking in and checking out a few new hotels.

Traymore restaurant. Photo courtesy of Metropolitan by COMO.

Metropolitan by COMO, Miami Beach

2445 Collins Ave., South Beach; +1-305-695-3600

Specs: A boutique bolthole from hotelier Christina Ong, the latest COMO is comprised of just 74 rooms designed by noted interior designer Paola Navone. Rooms are simple, spare, and elegant, and the in-house Traymore restaurant (so named for the original Deco gem in which it is housed) serves exquisite ceviches, brick oven pizzas, and straight-from-the-sea stews.

Pluses: The intimate setting and the Zen spa make this place feel like a chic escape. There is no scene here.

Minuses: Not many.

Unique Selling Point: The relaxing Indian head massage at the sleek spa. Also, the completely peaceful pool area which features the perfect mix of sun, shade, and gourmet snacks.

This Place Is Perfect For: Anyone seeking a quiet, restorative long weekend.

But Not So Perfect For: Those in search of late-night action or anyone on a tight budget.

Rates: City rooms start at $269 per night. 

Impeccable, chic rooms at EDITION. Photo courtesy of The Miami Beach EDITION.

The Miami Beach EDITION

2901 Collins Ave., South Beach; +1-786-257-4500

Specs: This just-opened "next generation urban resort" from Ian Schrager and Marriott Hotels occupies a sleekly renovated 1950s landmark on Collins Avenue in the mid-beach section of South Beach. The latest of Schrager's EDITION hotels for Marriott (London and Istanbul are thriving) has 294 minimalist rooms and suites, many with breathtaking ocean vistas.

Pluses: Everything is spotlessly clean, and white linens and neutral wood finishes abound. The staff — from room service to cheerful concierges — are eager to please.

Minuses: It draws a slightly louder crowd — possibly for the disco bowling downstairs.

Unique Selling Point: There are several. Market by Jean Georges Vongerichten serves delicious food 24/7 in a vibrant, open air space. The poolside restaurant Tropicale serves perfect shrimp cocktail in an Art Deco, bouganvillea-strewn landscape. But really, this place is such a one-stop hotel shop that you could bring an entire family here and find an activity, spa treatment, luxury suite, or amenity for everyone.

This Place Is Perfect for: Art Basel attendees and start-up CEOs.

But Not So Perfect For: Anyone seeking total quiet or anyone who prefers overstuffed chairs and chintz.

Rates: Standard King rooms start at $349 per night. Click here for reservations.

Read More: An interview with Ian Schrager about the EDITION collection.

Arches around the hotel. Photo courtesy of Casa Claridge.

Casa Claridge

3500 Collins Ave., South Beach; +1-305-604-8485 and reception@casaclaridge.com

Specs: Originally built in the Mediterranean Revival style, the 50-room hotel recently purchased by hotelier Alan Faena feels like a relaxed guest house — as well as an arts hub — a counterpoint to the Saxony Hotel and Norman Foster-designed apartments Faena is builing across Collins Avenue. Casa Claridge rooms have touches like Frette linens and bottles of Argentinean malbec, not to mention peace and quiet in plentiful quantities.

Pluses: The atmosphere is sweet — think sophisticated house party — where people congregate in the main sitting room underneath a giant paper cut-out ceiling installation by Manuel Ameztoy.

Minuses: There's no swimming pool and the bathrooms could use a sprucing up.

Unique Selling Point: A three-way tie between the killer tuna tartare served on the patio, the rotating art exhibits, and the musical tertulias on Friday nights that feature guest curators.

This Place Is Perfect For: Those seeking a low-key vibe on a budget.

But Not So Perfect For: Anyone looking for bells, whistles, or bowling alleys (see The EDITION down the street).

Rates: Casa Queen Rooms start at $129 per night. Click here for reservations.

The garden area. Photo courtesy of Thompson Miami Beach.

Thompson Miami Beach

4041 Collins Ave., South Beach; +1-786-605-4041

Specs: This 380-room beachfront spot captures the mid-century modern aesthetic through interior design by noted British tastemaker Martin Brudnizki. Rooms feel spacious: Many have ocean views, and more than 30 suites have expansive terraces, full kitchensm and living rooms. The furnishings are eclectic and more colorful than the stark, white environments found in neighboring hotels.

Pluses: The pool and garden areas are perfect for people watching, and the hotel's restaurant Seagrape is run by James Beard Award-winning chef and local food hero Michelle Bernstein. A Miami native, she plays to the area's seafood strengths in a relaxed, retro setting.

Minuses: The lobby feels slightly strange — lots of dark colors and no clear sitting areas.

Unique Selling Point: The tenth floor spa has lovely sea views and the Crown Room is the perfect spot for a cocktail connoisseur.

This Place Is Perfect For: The younger set and fans of a slightly funkier design aesthetic.

But Not So Perfect For: Anyone looking for a highly personal, intimate environment.

In addition to these spots and others like Hotel Croydon and Circa 39, 2015 promises to be a year of spectacular openings. The two best to watch are Faena's Deco gem The Saxony and the very green 1 Hotel in the former Gansevoort space. Happy Miami. It's going to be a hot winter.

Verdura Golf and Spa Resort Is the Sicilian Golf Resort You'll Never Want to Leave

All-inclusive resorts are usually a Fathom taboo. Unless it's a sleek Sicilian golf resort with stellar seaside views, high-end dining options, and a full-service spa. Christina Ohly checks out the secluded, self-sustaining spot outside Catania that's surprisingly hard to leave. And this time, we're okay with that.

Overview

Sleek stone finishes and fine linens, endless pools and play spaces, and four different and delicious restaurants mean you'll never want to leave Verdura Resort, a golf resort and spa on the southwestern coast of Sicily.

Claim to Fame

The spa is spectacular, with white zen spaces at every turn. Excellent aestheticians specialize in deep tissue massage.

What's on Site

Everything is on site: a great gym, a full-service spa, a pizzeria, and fine dining options. There's WiFi everywhere, but you'll only find Italian channels on television. Consider it part of the cultural immersion, like the resort's soccer clinics for kids led by Juventus players.

Details at Granita Bar, one of the many food and drink options on-site.

The Food

This is a Verdura highlight. Breakfast is served on an enormous poolside patio, and lunch and dinner options range from a simple pizzeria to the seaside Amare, where you get to select your fish from the catch of the day. Chef Fulvio Pierangelini, the famous executive chef of all Rocco Forte Hotels, is often around. He's wonderful, as are his on-site cooking classes.

This Place Is Perfect For

Families, as there are so many kid-centric activities and facilities: A long beach with toys and boats, various pools, tennis courts, and a manageable golf course. Soccer clinics, cool babysitters, and endless room for running around are other highlights. Verdura is also perfect for sun-seekers from the United Kingdom who can fly easily into Palermo or Catania for a weekend away.

But Not So Perfect For

Honeymooners. It seems a bit big and bustling. You never feel like you're seeing other people, so I'm sure there are secluded spaces, but they're not the order of the day.

Room with a View

I stayed in a junior suite with my two pre-teens. It was spacious and comfortable, with incredibly high ceilings and atmospheric linen netting over the king-size bed. Sweeping views of the golf course and the sea made for a relaxing stay.

Seriously awesome soccer camp headed by Juventus footballers.

Neighborhood Vibe

There is no town nearby, but you won't want to leave anyway. This is a self-sustaining compound, with food, drink, classes, sports of all kinds, beauty treatments...the list is endless. The only downside to all of this is that you'll feel slightly guilty for being in this historical part of the world and wanting to sit poolside, prosecco in hand, doing nothing more than reading a book between lunch and dinner.

What to Do Nearby

The Valley of the Temples in nearby Agrigento and the city of Catania, a UNESCO World Heritage site, are both musts. Force yourself off the sun lounger for these bits of culture and for a quick detour to the seaside village of Sciacca. This last stop provides a real dose of local color and a look at a working fishing port. Other nearby attractions include the ruins of Selinunte, Le Scale dei Turchi, and Eraclea Minoa.

Step out to seaside Sciacca. Photo by Christina Ohly.

BOOK IT

Rates start at €220. Click here for reservations.

FIND IT

Verdura Resort
S.S. 115 km 131, 92019
Sciacca, Sicily, Italy
+39-0925-998-001
reservations.verdura@roccofortehotels.com

Zone Out on the Beach in Sicily at Belmond Villa Sant'Andrea

Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly found a certain spot in the Mediterranean to sit back and tune out. She checks into a charming villa in Taormina for a serene stay on the Sicilian coast.

Overview

La. Dolce. Vita. Villa Sant'Andrea, the Belmond hotel on the beach in Taormina, Sicily, is simply a slice of heaven. The original villa was constructed in the 1830s and has been lovingly restored down to the tropical plants in the surrounding gardens. The crowd is a complete mixed bag, but you're guaranteed to find many Americans and Brits, primarily of older age, as quiet is the order of the day.

What's New

The old is what's great here, but the additions of a gym, a small spa, and complimentary boat tours (with swimming) of the surrounding islands and inlets are all pluses.

What's on Site

You'll find beautiful rooms and suites — most with flower-filled balconies and sea views — as well as the most picturesque patio for breakfasts that can last for hours. People don't come here to work out, but if you must sweat, the adequate small gym features several cardio machines. The spa does excellent in-room or outdoor massages. WiFi is available throughout the property, including at the pool and in the hotel's private beach cabanas.

Salty ocean breeze for breakfast. Photo by Christina Ohly.

The Food

Breakfast on the covered terrace is the highlight — a massive spread of yogurts, cereals, breads, and every fruit imaginable, as well as locally sourced honey and jam. And the coffee is killer, of course. Skip dinner as it is wildly expensive and not very charming. You'll have better in town, particularly at rooftop gem Viccolo Stretto in Taormina.

This Place Is Perfect For

Couples and families with extremely well-behaved, older children. This is Italy, so just about anyone and anything will work. But at these prices, it is a wonderful experience for a slightly older set.

But Not So Perfect For

Anyone on a budget. The €10 Diet Cokes really do add up.

Room with a View

I stayed in a small sea view junior suite (Room 211) with exquisite views of the Bay of Mazzarò. The beds are dreamy — thick, firm mattresses with perfectly pressed cotton sheets — in that way that is so specific to great Italian hotels. All rooms have been upgraded to include electrical outlets for all chargers (US, UK, EU) and the most modern bathroom amenities. Be sure to request a room away from the service elevator, which kicks in very early in the morning.

Views inside and out. Photo courtesy of Belmond Villa Sant'Andrea.

Neighborhood Vibe

A shuttle whisks guests up to Taormina proper, where the atmospheric streets — winding passages, frescoed cathedrals, and trattorias galore — make for a fun afternoon or evening. This is not Capri: You won't find Gucci or Prada, but rather smaller, artisanal shops selling beads, limoncello, and some of the best gelato and granita I've had anywhere in Italy.

What to Do Nearby

Mount Etna often supplies visual excitement (it was active this past summer) and Siracusa is a little more than an hour away. A summertime film festival brings stars from around the globe who all stay at the sister property in town, Grand Hotel Timeo, which itself is worth a dinner overlooking the twinkling light of town and the Mediterranean in the distance. The picturesque towns of Modica and Noto — as well as the baroque Cathedral of San Giorgio — can be accessed by your very own Fiat 500, which can be arranged for in advance with the concierge.

The scene in Taormina. Photo by Gnuckx / Flickr. 

Rome's Hot New Hotel Is a Poet's Old Home

An old property is becoming the big news in Roman hospitality. Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly checked into the former home of German writer Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, the hot addition to Rome's hotel options.

CHECKING IN

La Scelta di Goethe has been spectacularly transformed into a series of sumptuous apartments that makes for a home stay like no other. Do not judge this book by its cover, as the entrance to the luxury apartments is a simple door on bustling Via del Corso, just around the corner from the Spanish Steps.

Guests are greeted at the main door and escorted up to the fourth floor apartments, where they're welcomed with fresh fruits, pressed juices, and champagne.

There are three suite options: Trinita dei Monti has sweeping terraces, a well-stocked library, and a rooftop soaking pool. Villa Medici has quiet bedrooms, a spacious and high-ceiling living room, and a private dining room overlooking the the domes of Trinita dei Monti. Goethe's Home, at 260 square meters, is the total house takeover that includes both Trinita dei Monti and Villa Medici suites. Access to additional communal areas makes it ideal for families, small groups, or those seeking big, elegant, silent space.

A stay at La Scelta is simply unlike anyplace else. Every finish and fabric — exquisite marbles! beautiful woods! — has been carefully considered by Mario Angelini, the warm owner. The dedicated butler and concierge stay completely out of sight — until you need to ask questions about running routes, cultural highlights, and hidden trattoria throughout this eternally wonderful city.

Claim to Fame

Just opened a year ago, the hotel is still under the radar, but it won't be for long. The name translates as "the choice of Goethe," and these are, in fact, the former apartments of German poet J.W. Goethe. A stay is like a wonderful history lesson with five-star polish and service and the best access to the city.

What's on Site

The refined attic apartments are more like the home of a Roman royal than the usual luxury hotel. There is nothing typical about the rich tapestries, the Florentine artwork, and the exceptional collections of contemporary glass that line the shelves. You will find yourself marveling at the overall design, a loving restoration of an historic building in the heart of the city, but one that incorporates the latest technologies in subtle ways (like loaded iPads in every guest room). The perfectly pressed sheets are of the highest thread count, and the amenities in the sleek bathrooms are Santa Maria Novella, including toothbrushes and paste. No small request is overlooked, and delectable snacks appear at key points throughout the day. No gym, no restaurant; good WiFi, televisions, and phones. The staff is happy to arrange gym passes. Markets just outside the front door make stocking up on cold Diet Cokes a cinch.

Room with a View

My extended family and I were lucky enough to take over the entire house, which made for a very different, more personal Roman stay. I slept in the quiet back room in the master suite. I absolutely loved the owner, Mario. With his warm smile and chatty Italian (I told him I spoke the language once upon a time, as in, 25 years ago), I learned so much about the neighborhood and the loving restoration of these apartments, as well as his sister property, San Buono, in the Tuscan hills.

The Food

Breakfast is the total highlight of any stay here, and, when possible, is served on the rooftop terrace, with 360-degree views of Villa Borghese, Vatican City, and Saint Carlo Church in the distance. It was a meal I won't soon forget: muesli, yogurt, meats and cheeses, berries of every kind, a delicious plum tart, fresh breads and croissants from the baker down the street. It just went on and on.

This Place Is Perfect For

Groups of six, families with older children, couples looking for a total escape. That La Scelta di Goethe can work for any and all is a testament to the staff and how hard they work to ensure that every guest is looked after.

But Not So Perfect For

Anyone with mobility issues and small children, as there are multiple stairs involved. The cream-colored sofa fabrics and fine artworks by Pietro Bardellino aren't very kid-friendly either.

CHECKING OUT

Neighborhood Vibe

The luxury suites are a complete oasis in an otherwise frenetic part of the city. You're a minute from the Spanish Steps, the high-end shops lining Via Condotti, and Piazza del Popolo, yet you'll feels like you've stepped back in time.

What to Do Nearby

You're in the middle of Rome. What can't you do? Area highlights include Basilica Santa Maria del Popolo, straciatella gelato from Il Gelato (Largo Monte D'Oro, 28), dinners outside at Piazza del Popolo's Dal Bolognese(more for the scene than the food, which is perfectly fine), and pizza and foccacia by the slice from Grano around the corner (literally, the best I've ever had). The Pantheon, the most beautiful building on earth, is a short walk away, as is lunch of incredible cheeses and crudo at nearby Roscioli.

FIND IT

La Scelta di Goethe
Via del Corso, 107, 00187
Roma, Italy
+39-06-6994-2219
info@lasceltadigoethe.com

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE

Little Black Book: Chef Nick Anderer's Favorite Roman Restaurants
La Dolce Everything: Rome on Two Wheels
Hometwon Debrief: Katie Parla's Rome

How to Have the Perfect Family Vacation in the Berkshires

Great Barrington & Stockbridge

After your dose of high art, these historic towns offer more low-key culture. Start at Stockbridge’s Norman Rockwell Museum; this summer’s event “Mom, Apple Pie, and Rockwell’s Models” is a celebration of the simple pleasures that inspired the artist, with music, classic American fare, and the chance to meet some of his models (413-298-4100).

STAY

The history lessons continue at the Red Lion Inn in Stockbridge. Dating from 1773, it has period furnishings and a wide porch with rocking chairs (30 Main St.; 413-298-5545; doubles from $155).

Williamstown & North Adams

From here, it’s a few miles east to North Adams and MASS MoCA. Stop by the contemporary art hub’s dedicated Kidspace, which has installations by Anselm Kiefer and colorful wall drawings by Sol LeWitt (413-662-2111). Nearly an acre of interior walls were built at MASS MoCA to showcase LeWitt’s large-scale drawings.

STAY

After a day of exploring, retreat to the Porches Inn at MASS MoCA, a series of Victorian row houses with oversized rooms and suites that work particularly well for families (231 River St.; 413-664-0400; doubles from $190). The pool is a big plus on hot summer days, as are the breakfasts, which are delivered to your door in traditional millworkers’ lunch boxes. There’s also the Guest House at Field Farm, a Williamstown B&B with a mid-century modern aesthetic and an impressive contemporary art collection. It’s on 300-plus acres of conservation land, with guided walks for children in summer (554 Sloan Rd.; 413-458-3135; doubles from $200).

Lenox & Becket

Summer is high season for the performing arts here. Tanglewood, home of the Boston Symphony Orchestra in July and August, premieres on July 5 in Lenox, south of Williamstown. Pack a picnic, sit on the lawn, and listen to performers like Joshua Bell, Yo-Yo Ma, and James Taylor. The Afternoon Family Concerts and the Boston Pops’ rendition of _The Wizard of Oz _are lively and informal, with children roaming (relatively) free on the lawns, even during concerts (888-266-1200).

PLAY

There’s always something inspiring to see at the Jacob’s Pillow Dance Festival in Becket, where free outdoor performances Wednesday through Saturday evenings—more than 40 throughout the season—offer a distinguished lineup of contemporary dance and ballet (413-243-0745). Shakespeare & Company’s summer production of _Romeo and Juliet _at The Mount—Edith Wharton’s majestic former estate, pictured here—gives young theatergoers an introduction to the playwright, while scavenger hunts keep the little ones busy in maze-like gardens (413-551-5111).

Lenox & Becket

Even in an area with no shortage of great lodgings and restaurants, Wheatleigh—a spectacular 19th-century Florentine-inspired palazzo in Lenox—stands out as one of the most luxurious. Parents can relax in a neutral-hued suite or by the pool while children explore the endless lawns (11 W. Hawthorne Rd.; 413-637-0610; doubles from $715). Stonover Farm, a B&B also in Lenox, has two stand-alone villas—the two-bedroom Rock Cottage and the 600-square-foot School House—for families craving a little extra space (169 Under Mountain Rd.; 413-637-9100; doubles from $335). Just up the road, the stately Blantyre is another excellent option; kids will love the turrets, gargoyles, and other castle-like ornamentation, as well as games like boccie, shuffleboard, and croquet. There’s also a superlative spa for adults (16 Blantyre Rd.; 413-637-3556; doubles from $600).

Lenox & Becket

Regardless of where you stay, stop at a roadside stand for fresh produce, then breakfast burritos and granola at the Haven Cafe and Bakery in Lenox (8 Franklin St.; 413-637-8948). And be sure to have dinner at Becket’s Dream Away Lodge, a farmhouse where the food, including the delicious duck carnitas tacos, is as magical as the atmosphere; there’s also live music and bonfires nightly (1342 County Rd.; 413-623-8725; entrées from $20).

Williamstown & North Adams

A quintessential college town complete with church spires and a postcard-worthy main street, Williamstown (home of Williams College) would merit a stop even if it weren’t the site of the new Tadao Ando–designed Clark Art Institute, which opens on the Fourth of July. Families can fill an entire afternoon and evening on some days with everything from outdoor concerts to the stellar collection of Impressionist art, as well as the interactive Looking Carefully Cards for kids six and up, which turn gallery gazing into an act of discovery (413-458-2303). For your naturalists-in-training, head to Cricket Creek Farm, a working Williamstown dairy and bakery where they’ll learn about caring for farm animals and making cheese (1255 Oblong Rd.; 413-458-5888). Or you can spend an afternoon watching dragonflies flit and red-tailed hawks soar at Mountain Meadow Preserve, 180 pastoral acres with miles of easy trails just up the road from Williamstown (413-298-3239).

Great Barrington & Stockbridge

Also in Stockbridge, the Berkshire Botanical Garden (pictured)—with its free Family Fridays featuring birds of prey and the snakes of Berkshire County, a hut made of willow, and a Hogwarts-inspired herb garden full of wacky-looking plants—shouldn’t be missed (413-298-3926). Nor should the nearby Naumkeag, an eccentric Gilded Age estate with eight acres of terraced gardens (413-298-3239).

Great Barrington & Stockbridge

Cooling off at Bash Bish Falls State Park, home to the area’s highest single-drop waterfall and a short drive from Great Barrington.

Great Barrington & Stockbridge

For another outdoor excursion, visit Otis Reservoir (pictured), outside Great Barrington, or Sheffield’s Bartholomew’s Cobble, the only National Natural Landmark in the Berkshires, with massive limestone and marble outcroppings created by ancient geologic shifts (413-229-8600).

Great Barrington & Stockbridge

Picking berries is a rite of summer in the Berkshires, with blueberry season kicking off at Great Barrington’s Windy Hill Farm on or around the Fourth of July (413-298-3217). Nearby, Noble’s Tweenbrook Farm has strawberries (356 E. New Lenox Rd.; 413-443-2210) and Bartlett’s Orchard, in Richmond, offers late-summer apple picking (413-698-2559).

EAT

In Great Barrington, the French-inflected Bizalion’s is known for its simple menu of crusty baguettes filled with prosciutto, Gruyère, and sweet cornichons (684 Main St.; 413-644-9988; sandwiches from $8). For an early dinner of _shumai _and soba, go to **Bizen Kaiseki **(17 Railroad St.; 413-528-4343; entrées from $7). End the evening the way all good summer evenings should: with ice cream. You can’t go wrong with a scoop of mint chip or mission fig from SoCo Creamery (955 S. Main St.; 413-528-8400).

The Dunmore: a blissful bolthole in the Bahamas

A Harbour Island hotel and restaurant that’s a paean to old world glamour

I have been going to the Bahamas’ Harbour Island – an unspoilt slip of pink sand encircled in turquoise waters – for many years, and thought I had the place pretty well worked out. The Landing is the place to go for great dinners outdoors; the Rock House overlooking the bay is the spot for chic-people watching; and Sip-Sip is the bustling beachfront boîte where lobster quesadillas are the order of the (mid)day. But I must add to this short list of favourites The Dunmore, a boutique hotel and restaurant with a clubby vibe that calls to mind Palm Beach c1960.

The Dunmore has, in fact, been operating since 1963 – first for members, and from 2010 as a stylish bolthole for a broader clientele complete with charming bar, dining room and 15 nautical-chic guest cottages created by Nassau-based interior designer Amanda Lindroth. Vintage rattan furniture sits beside modern Lucite tables and John Robshaw textiles, while outside, bougainvillea and night jasmine line the walkways from the secluded rooms to the central clubhouse. The scene oozes old-world, ocean-hideaway glamour.  

A pre-dinner cocktail beneath the slowly swirling fans and beside stacks of art books and clusters of conch shells kicks an evening off in laid-back style. The restaurant is overseen by creative chef Cindy Hutson and her partner Delius Shirley, and menus revolve around Caribbean-inspired dishes that include the delicious local seafood: daily fish ceviches (market price) with citrus juices, fresh ginger and diced red and yellow peppers with a side of plantain chips and housemade guacamole was a favourite, as were lobster cobb salads ($23) and grilled-grouper sandwiches ($19) with yucca fries. A red Thai and kaffir-lime bouillabaisse ($49) with jasmine rice and spice-marinated, roasted West Indian chicken ($33) with a Jamaican kick were also standouts. Freshly made sorbets and warm chocolate beignets made for ideal endings to a meal there on more than one occasion.

Truth be told, I was hard-pressed to eat elsewhere during my stay.

Checking Into London's New Hotels

LONDON – There are hotel towns and then there are hotel towns, and London is at the top of my list as the city that gets the hospitality thing just right. From crisp linens and piping hot breakfasts to the kindest, most capable staff, London hotels set the bar high. And while they've traditionally been a tad fusty (think leaky — but charming! — showers and plenty of overstuffed chintz chairs), they've also provided top-notch service and hefty doses of old world charm.

The new entrants into the competitive London hotels scene may be are all over the map stylistically, from baroque charm to state-of-the-art everything, but they still retain that common theme of excellence. By the way, we're taking liberties with how we define "new," as some may be a year or two old by now. But all are certainly boutiques.

Photo: Courtesy of Ace Hotel London

Ace Hotel London

100 Shoreditch High St., Shoreditch; +44-20-7613-9800
Specs: Everything is cooler in Shoreditch, and that includes the hotels. The latest addition to the East End is über cool, like the original Ace outposts in Portland, Seattle, and New York. If your preferred style is grown-up grunge, The Ace makes for a great jumping off point to the city, local galleries, and the incredible local restaurant scene, which includes The Clove Club and Hawksmoor.

Pluses: The lobby scene is vibrant and buzzing with the energy that comes from a fashion-forward, tech, and design-minded clientele. The staff are laid-back and friendly, clad in John Smedley sweaters and Converse trainers. As one might expect from a Pacific Northwest-based company, there is an excellent cafe serving Square Mile Coffee Roasters' best and a juice bar. The happening, in-house restaurant, Hoi Polloi, serves the kind of delicious burgers, inventive sandwiches, and cakes and fancies you actually want to eat at midnight. But the biggest sell is the price point: Rooms are reasonable by London standards. The whole happy-hipster vibe just clicks. Great value for money.

Minuses: Rooms are a bit minimalist (not in a chic, white way) and feel a bit like you're staying in a friend's first flat. Patchwork quilts (albeit by a French design firm), industrial plastic crates, and a slightly gloomy palette (no one needs grey paint in London) add to a slightly depressing effect. The hotel nails the amenities to the wall (refillable jars, all very sustainable, are not for the taking), which lends a gym-like feel to the bathing experience.

Unique Selling Point: Bespoke bicycles are on offer and locally sourced minibars feature killer crisps and crazy things like Pot Noodles that you'd never buy for yourself. The energy at Ace is invigorating, as is knowing that at any moment someone might just bust out a Hacky Sack.

Rates: Standard Double rooms start at $205 per night. Click here for reservations. 

The courtyard and Manor House living room. Photos: Courtesy of Rosewood London

Rosewood London

252 High Holborn, Holborn; +44-20-7781-8888
Specs: This 1914 Edwardian Belle Epoque gem in a former insurance company office building has had a $130-million makeover, and it shows to spectacular effect. There are soaring domes, a grand Pavonazzo marble staircase that rises up seven stories to a massive cupola, and Premier Suites grand enough to host a sizable wedding party.

Pluses: The courtyard entrance feels like some sort of Parisian sanctuary. The lobby is filled with books and interesting art (even fancy gents nod off on the sofas). The sumptuous room details (minibars stocked with select Scotches, N'espresso machines, favorable bathroom lighting) add to the overall luxe effect. Incredibly high ceilings, a vibrant lobby bar, the deliciously stocked Delicatessen that opens onto the High Street, and great fitness facilities (still not the norm in the U.K.) make Rosewood worth the detour.

Minuses: The Holborn location is a bit dodgy, although the cheerful concierge spun it as "where the City meets the West End." This is a Mayfair hotel experience nowhere near Mayfair, so you'll need to familiarize yourself with the Piccadily line or enlist one of the hotel's Jaguars-for-hire to get around in style.

Unique Selling Point: The Grand Manor House Wing is accessed via private entrance, features six bedrooms and more than 6,000 square feet of sitting space — not to mention its own postcode (literally). Another differentiatator: General manager Michael Bonsor hails from Claridge's, so no detail is overlooked.

Rates: Premier King rooms start at $690 per night. Click here for reservations.

A loft suite and Berner's Tavern. Photos: Nikolas Koenig / The London Edition

The London Edition

10 Berners St., Fitzrovia; +44-20-7781-0000
Specs: The impressive Fitzrovia spot is a collaboration between Marriot and perennially hip hotelier, Ian Schrager. (Read Fathom's interview with Ian.) I went in a hater (I'm ashamed to admit it), but this space — with its soaring and meticulously restored ceilings, walnut-clad rooms, and staff from Claridge's and The Sanderson — is firing on all cylinders. Bonus: Le Labo amenities abound.

Pluses: The "lifestyle hotel" is a great respite, especially for business travelers who need connectivity and proximity to central London. The rooms may have a spare aesthetic, but the public spaces (by hot designers Yabu Pushelberg) are swaddled in warm velvet and soft leather, complete with a roaring fire and billiards table. Another big plus is the location: The Edition is a mash-up of five Georgian townhouses in a tree-lined area.

Minuses: Although it's been primped and boutique'd, there's something — be it ever so slight — that is hard to shake off about the mass Marriott brand, especially for indie-all-the-way travelers. It is also a tad slick, but if nightclubs and dark, atmospheric bars are your thing, then you have truly arrived.

Unique Selling Point: Food and beverage. There are multiple bars including the expansive, humming Lobby Bar, as well as Punch Room, a fun, reservations-only grotto that serves drinks from cauldrons. This is not your grandfather's fumoir. Stunning, art-filled restaurant Berners Tavern is the creation of Michelin-starred Jason Atherton and features best-of-British basics like prawns and dressed crab and a proper Sunday roast lunch.

Rates: Deluxe rooms start at $615 per night. Click here for reservations.

A junior suite and Stables Bar. Photos: Courtesy of The Milestone Hotel

The Milestone Hotel

1 Kensington Court, Kensington; +44-20-7917-1000
Specs: Location, location, location! This Kensington bolthole wins for its proximity to Kensington Gardens (many rooms overlook the park and into the Royal Apartments), the Ken High Street tube station, and Whole Foods down the street (where you'll stock the mini bar).

Pluses: The regal, 19th-century Milestone — with its red brick façade and traditional flower boxes — feels almost like a home stay. You'll be warmly greeted by name upon every return, sometimes with a glass of Champagne. It's quintessential Olde England, with plenty of chintz, dark red and green fabrics, and sporting art on the walls. But the bathrooms are modern, the rooms are stocked with international fashion and design magazines, and multiple ports and sockets make working a breeze.

The food is surprisingly good. Cozy Stables Bar (which looks like something straight out of a Ralph Lauren ad) serves excellent club sandwiches at all hours. The more formal Cheneston's is a magnet for the Sunday lunch crowd. And if you don’t fancy traditional Brit fare, the best Lebanese food (Randa) and culinary mecca Clarke's are just around the corner.

Minuses: Rooms are pricey for the square footage, and you won't find a minimalist aesthetic but an exuberant one. Just revel in what English hotels do best — provide excellent, unfailingly polite service, as well as crisp bed linens and warm bath towels. The most nitpicky minus ever: they need new rubbish bins in the bathrooms. The current models are the size of thimbles and overflow frequently. If that's the worst complaint, then this member of the Red Carnation Hotel chain is doing something right.

USP: The small resistance pool in the gym spa is rare for a hotel in this area, and provides a refreshing escape on hot summer days, particularly for kids. No request is too strange: If something needs to be messengered, they'll send their own person for no more than the cost of the taxi ride. Another bonus are the six two-bedroom apartments with kitchenettes for families or extended stays. Apartment 6 (The Rooftop) has an outdoor terrace and a washer/dryer.

A bucolic bolthole in Connecticut’s Litchfield Hills

Luxurious escapism is par for the course at the Mayflower Inn & Spa

One of the greatest things about New York City is the relative ease with which it’s possible to escape: an hour in virtually any direction and you could find yourself at the beach, in the mountains, or sitting by a pristine lake. An hour and 40 minutes north, however, will put you in bucolic Washington, Connecticut – an area of rolling hills and white clapboard New England churches – a picture-perfect town that, for me, recently made for a completely restorative retreat.

I had the good fortune to stay at the newly renovated Mayflower Inn & Spa, a 58-acre oasis that offers everything from fishing lessons to craniosacral massage in the loveliest of Zen settings. With just 30 rooms (from $675-$1,850 per night) – complete with sumptuous Frette linens and many featuring four-poster beds – the atmosphere felt more grand, shingle-style country house than Relais & Chateaux, of which the Mayflower is a part. Every detail was attended to in advance of my visit – minibar requests, personally chosen midnight snacks (excellent touch), as well as preferences for beauticians, should I choose to indulge in the sprawling 20,000sq ft spa.

The inn has built a stellar reputation among spa-goers, but I travelled here specifically for fresh air, good food and downtime. One could, however, easily spend a fully packed month here, as the activities on offer are endless: mountain biking, guided hikes, archery, yoga and Pilates, antiquing in nearby towns, tennis lessons, warming ginger pedicures… the list goes on and on. My weekend away was focused on the great outdoors, but after touring the spa and its soothing Garden Room and treatment facilities, I intend to return for some Steeprock Stone Therapy ($275) in the not-too-distant future. In addition, there is a whole Mind-Spirit menu that incudes classes in meditation, journal writing, watercolour and landscape painting, flower arranging and a particularly intriguing Organise Your Life course ($90) designed to help you manage it all on your return to reality.

I spent quality time reading on the peaceful wraparound porch, as well as in various public sitting rooms that are stocked with beautiful art books and freshly cut flowers. Delicious food is central to the whole Mayflower experience, too – no spartan spa deprivation here – and I feasted at the inn’s formal restaurant whose menu features traditional fare such as beef tenderloin tartare, artisanal-cheese risotto and Niman Ranch pork tenderloin. But I preferred the more casual Tap Room with its comforting classics (a signature Greyledge Farm black Angus burger with hand-cut Parmesan and rosemary chips was perfection) and relaxed vibe.

As an escape that includes lush wilderness, healthy living, a rich panoply of activities and the kind of attention to detail that means wellies and a mac are provided should the sun fail to shine – could life ever be without a serious silver lining at this picturesque haven? Never.

Checking In: Old Stone Farm

Fathom contributing editor and B&B hater Christina Ohly checked into Old Stone Farm, a beautiful, new inn/spa/holistic healing center a few hours north of New York City. And just like that, she's singing the hippie tune.

HUDSON VALLEY, New York – I am not generally one for a B&B — or any kind of creaky-floored communal living, for that matter — so my recent visit to Old Stone Farm, a hotel that opened about six weeks ago near bucolic Rhinebeck, New York, took me completely by surprise. I have explored this picturesque part of the Hudson Valley at length. It is full of beautiful scenery, great farmers' markets, and endless culture (music, theatre, and historic homes), but there has always been a lack of great (do not read "fancy") places to stay. But with the addition of Old Stone Farm, a ten-room inn, spa, and holistic healing center, the area's accommodations are really looking up. The brainchild of Sherry Kahn and her late husband Stu, the property is full of wonderful old barns, a yoga studio, lofty spaces for quiet contemplation, and cozy bedrooms.

One of many cozy common spaces.

CHECK IN, CHECK OUT

You drive through the massive split fence gates onto 236 acres of horse farm. It's as beautiful as you can imagine. You're surrounded by natural beauty everywhere: in the gardens and maple groves, by the swimming pond, and along the hiking trails. Your bags are whisked to your room and your car is valet parked, but there is nothing "hotel" about this place. The innkeeper's warm greeting gives the feeling that you've arrived at the estate of a gentleman farmer friend. The communal spaces — bright sitting rooms, reading nooks, a long dining table (a personal taboo, but somehow acceptable here) — encourage you to spread out as if you were in your own home. You're a guest at this intimate house party.

Equinox and Blue, two of the guest rooms.

The rooms has been lovingly restored down to the details — organic mattresses, Frette linens, extensive collections of American art, and high, exposed-beam ceilings in many rooms. Most are named for the farm's horses: Tidbit, Spirit, Secret, Duke, and Hawkins among them. The sprawling four-bedroom guesthouse is a great option for families and small groups.

The two cedar steam cabinets.

WELLNESS FOR ALL

Some of the best therapists in the Hudson Valley are on call to perform daily, wellness treatments like massages, energy healing treatments, facials, and wraps. Haute hippies, it turns out, give killer massages, and there are all kinds of craniosacral and soothing hot stone options that I never even knew existed. Coolest of all may be the two cedar steam cabinets — old school! completely rejuvenating! — that incorporate the principles of Ayurveda to cleanse and detoxify the body.

In the riding spaces.

The adrenaline is physical: Guests can use the indoor and oudoor horseback riding arenas and take energizing yoga classes in the 18th-century barn. And the adrenaline is mental: A series of constantly changing workshops designed to educate and reinvigorate are integral to the Old Stone Farm ethos. There are weekend retreats — classes with noted yoga instructors, spa treatments, horseback riding — and courses, like the four-day "This Beautiful Wound: Grief as a Spiritual Path." It's all a little touchy-feely but in a subdued way. Guests feel encouraged to explore new topics and try new treatments.

A sampling of the inn's hearty, healthy food.

EAT LOCAL AND DELICIOUS

What is a weekend away without great food? Not much, I say. Chef Matt Gaines cooks three delicious meals a day, plus endless snacks and hors d'oeuvres, at Pop's Kitchen, a central building with a cozy dining room and an enormous, kitted out kitchen. Gaines uses locally sourced ingredients whenever possible and prepares sophisticated, flavorful cuisine. The housemade granola and a warming Davenport Farms corn soup with avocado, lime, and queso fresco are notable menu options. For lunch, the hearty, inventive veggie burgers made with French lentils, bulgur, cremini mushrooms, leeks, onions, and a barbecue glaze will tide you over until a dinner of braised chicken, seared halibut, or fresh pasta. Everything is imaginative and delicious, right down to the killer flourless chocolate with local strawberry sorbet.

The chef knows his clientele (gluten-free, vegan, everything in between) and can tailor his dishes to all sort of dietary requirements. Bottom line: The food is scrumptious, fresh, and filling. This is not an exercise in deprivation, but rather a place to be introduced to the bounties — freshly baked bread, Catsmo smoked salmon, local cheeses — of the surrounding area.

OFF-CAMPUS ADVENTURES

On the off chance that you want to leave this pleasant compound, head to nearby Rhinebeck. The nearby Culinary Institute of America produces top talent, and it shows on the restaurant scene. The Local serves creative mezes prepared with the freshest area foods. Market Street is a warm, bright spot with a wood-burning oven that turns out fantastic thin-crust pizzas like Caprina, with fig-rosemary spread, Coach Farms goat cheese, pear, arugula, and truffle oil, as well as juicy lamb chops with crispy fingerling potatoes.

A hiking trail for quiet contemplation.

For a gentle hike with stellar views, the two miles of trails along Poet's Walk meander through fields and along the Hudson River. Hiking, biking, cross-country skiing, and showshoeing are the seasonal activities of choice around here. Further north, you'll find Olana, the former home and gardens of the artist Frederic Edwin Church. The grounds are stunning, as are the Hudson River School paintings within. Seasonal events include everything from outdoor concerts to art classes. Hudson, a former shipping and manufacturing town, has been hipped up with the addition of mid-century modern galleries, clothing shops, and creative restaurants like Swoon Kitchen Bar, where kale salads and thick-cut BLT sandwiches are the orders of the day.

FIND IT

Old Stone Farm
2434 State Route 9G
Staatsburg, NY 12580
+1-845-876-3977

GETTING THERE

Two hours from New York City via Amtrak or by car along the Taconic Parkway.

Turkish delight

An online cache of high-quality soaps, towels and bedding from Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar

I first discovered Abdulla, a bath-and-body shop secreted away in Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar, after an epic adventure through labyrinthine market stalls. Since it is unlikely that I’ll be returning there anytime soon, I was thrilled to discover its online cache of towels, rugs, soaps and slippers. What the site perhaps lacks in atmosphere, it more than makes up for in quality craftsmanship.

Hand-finished peştamel towels (TL55-TL200, about £17-£63) in neutral tones with subtle navy, black and rich Morrocan-red accents (example fourth picture, about £17) are boiled in olive oil to soften the raw silk and cotton, and are quite simply a cut above. They top the towel offerings, although other standouts include those made from 100 per cent cotton (about £9.50) or rainbow linen with hand-tied tassels (about £14).

Natural bath accessories, such as knitted-linen wash gloves (about £14), sponges (about £11), pumice sets (third picture, about £12.50) and Takunya clogs made of oriental hornbeam (first picture, about £54), all bring a bit of the hammam home. Wonderful Turkish oil-soaps in hand-woven cylinders (about £11) come with traditional glass evil-eye charms, while unpretentious soap blocks (about £2) are available in rose, cinnamon, lavender (fifth picture) and olive.

Hero pieces include the woven-hemp rugs from eastern Turkey (about £285), the bold kilims (about £252-£316) and patchwork-leather throws made of antelope skins and cowhides (about £380). However, the ultimate indulgence for me are the sets of linen bedding (about £184 for six pieces, including coverlet, bed sheet and four pillow cases) that come in crisp white, grey and a subtle shade of lilac (second picture).

Much like happening upon this shop in its magical maze, this site is a real find. Unlike the bazaar, however, you can bookmark it easily and have items delivered to your door, no bartering required.

Chic Vibes and Picture-Perfect Views in Capri

After spending a few days in Ravello, contributing editor Christina Ohly and her family went to Capri for the quintessential experience: fresh seafood, lots of chilling out, intense people watching, and picture-perfect views.

CAPRI, Italy – With its effortless chic vibe and endless blue vistas, Capri is about as close to Nirvana as you're likely to get. Best enjoyed in the shoulder seasons (late spring and early fall), it's a magical place full of natural and archaeological wonders, not to mention delicious food and first-rate hotels. If you're in the market for complete relaxation (and unparalleled people watching), you'll find it on this island.

The Venetian salon at Villa San Michele. Photo: Peter de Ru.

WHAT TO DO

Chill
Relaxation is the name of the game on Capri, with the odd shopping excursion, ice cream cone, and cultural detour thrown in for good measure. The sun is intense and the temperatures soar in the summer months, so come armed with plenty of lightweight clothing, serious sunscreen, and a stack of old New Yorkers or a few good books. Capri is the epitome of la dolce vita, and you'll want to surrender to the preferred island activity of not doing very much at all.

Take to the Seas
While you will have taken a ferry to reach Capri, a small, chartered tour of the island by boat (preferably a Riva) is a wonderful way to experience the azure Tyrrhenian Sea. Many hotels can arrange for the use of their own boats: Capri Palace will rent the owner's 65-foot South Wind for the day.

Capri's biggest attraction is the Grotta Azzurra (Blue Grotto), a coastal sea cave that is flooded with brilliant blue light. Yes, it's beautiful. But be warned: It is also teeming with tourists.

A bedroom in Villa San Michele. Photo: Peter de Ru.

Commune with the Ancients
I wish I'd known about the Villa San Michele before my last day, because this museum and park really should be explored at great length. Built on the ruins of Emperor Tiberius' villa by the Swedish doctor, Axel Munthe, this magnificent spread sits atop a promontory overlooking the sea and houses moss-covered relics, ancient columns, and statuary at every turn. The house is comprised of beautiful loggias, atria, bedrooms, a wonderful kitchen, and an embellished chapel. Within these rooms you'll find over a thousand objects — Etruscan antiquities, Renaissance choir stalls — that Dr. Munthe sourced from all over Europe during his lifetime.

The compound (complete with bird sanctuary) is now overseen by the Swedish state and there is, I swear, a Nordic design sensibility to the whole place. The lush gardens are the perfect place to relax, and I only regret not seeing one of the beautiful, open-air concerts that the villa is so well known for. Before any visit, track down a copy of Dr. Munthe's The Story of San Michele, as fascinating today as it was when it was originally published in 1928.

Another archaeological gem is Villa Jovis, a Roman site completed in 29 AD that is accessible by a footpath and provides views of local homes and flourishing gardens along the way.

Custom sandals are a Capri tradition. Photos: Christina Ohly.

Slip into Italian Kicks
Sandals are the best retail game in town, especially those custom-made to your specifications. My favorite shoemaker is Antonio Viva, whose shop, L'Arte del Sandalo Caprese, is located on the main street in Anacapri. A larger-than-life personality, Antonio tends his shop from morning till dusk, making personalized sandals in every imaginable color and style. Go for the Roman classic, a flat sandal, or a jewel-encrusted party shoe. Either way, you'll feel like you're getting a bespoke product — in just fifteen minutes flat.

Second choice — Jackie O's favorite, Canfora. Lovely kicks, but slightly more expensive than Viva's. (You'll find even more expensive sandals throughout Capri.)

Look the Part from the Feet Up
In addition to fine footwear, Capri is also full of shops selling locally made linen items. My favorites are the sheer varieties in hues of blue and white by Puro Lino. Perfect for warm summer evenings and presents. Simple hand towels as well as linen cover-ups and clothing can be found at 100% Capri, a boutique specializing in separates in muted tones.

For pricey jewels, head to Grazia Vozza, specialists in chunky pieces made from exquisite jade, amethyst, and amber. The work of two sisters, Grazia Vozza makes statement-making pieces that will look great with the floaty caftan you'll be sporting poolside.

WHERE TO EAT

Morning Fuel
You don't exactly need "fuel" to enjoy the leisurely pace of life on Capri. We loved the breakfast spread — meats, cheeses, fruit, delicious breads, and local honey — at the Caesar Augustus' pool-level restaurant. With spectacular patios off most rooms, this is also a great spot to order room service. Croissants with a view of the Bay of Naples: not bad.

Lunch on the patio at J.K. Place. Photo: Courtesy of J.K. Place.

Lunch
Now this is the highlight of any Italian day, and much thought must go into the planning, consumption, and digestion of the meal. In Anacapri, the cliffside Lucullo Terrace at Caesar Augustus is hard to beat for its panini, light pastas, and views of Mount Vesuvius. In fact, it doesn't really matter what you eat. The scenery is truly breathtaking.

The finest overall game in town, however, is the patio at J.K. Place, situated down by Marina Grande. Lunch can last for hours (if you're lucky), as you'll be tended to by the most attentive staff, and, in many instances, by the wonderful manager, Simone Giorgi, who is happy to chat about everything from Italian football to the hotel's killer spa treatments. The meal consists of endless bread baskets (don't miss their grissini), delicious club sandwiches, and caprese salads — all with views of frolicking families on the rocky beach below. (No, you won't ever get tired of the views here.) Make time to sit by the beautifully designed pool (sans children) or hit the J.K. Spa, a sleek and peaceful sanctuary that does relaxing treatments (I'm going back for the pro-collagen quartz facial) and carries Santa Maria Novella products that I never knew existed. A day built around a meal at J.K. Place is pure bliss.

No lunch is complete without gelato. Some of Capri's finest flavors can be found at Gelateria Buonocore (35 Via Vittorio Emanuele; +39-081-837-7826) where stracciatella and chocolate hazelnut are the best bets.

Photo: Courtesy of Da Paolino.

Dinner
The options are endless, but a few of my favorites included Le Grottelle (Via Arco Naturale; +39-081-837-5719), a casual trattoria/pizzeria steps from the famed, monolithic Arco Naturale. This spot is reached by a gentle twenty-minute walk along the coast that begins at Tragara Point. By the time you reach the top, you are rewarded with stunning views of the Amalfi Coast and the Galli Islands, noto to mention Mama Rosa's homemade ravioli and the simply prepared catch of the day.

Family-owned Da Gelsomina is another culinary highlight recommended by the ever-tasteful staff at J.K. Place. Great views of Ischia; delicious spaghetti alla chiummenzana.

For the ultimate dose of dolce vita head straight for Faraglioni to dine under traditional pagliarelle (straw canopies) and watch the beautiful people go by. Located at the end of the elegant Via Camerelle in central Capri, this is a great spot to savor a cocktail and a fine lemon risotto.

Also fabulous: Ristorante Aurora, an island favorite that draws the likes of Giorgio Armani for Neapolitan specialties like spaghetti alle vongole and thin-crust pizzas served in a chic, if very 1970s, setting.

Slightly cheesy but no less festive is Da Paolino, where dining under twinkling lemon trees is the order of the day. The real highlight for every child (and parent) is the dessert bar for torta caprese, the island's traditional flourless chocolate cake, and gelati galore. I am still in recovery.

Photo: Courtesy of Hotel Caesar Augustus.

WHERE TO STAY

If you're looking for value, then Hotel Caesar Augustus in Anacapri wins, hands-down. Part of the Relais & Chateaux group, this hotel is somewhat off the beaten path and enjoys an ideal cliff-top location in the relatively quiet village of Anacapri. Many rooms literally jut out over the water, as does the infinity pool that overlooks an endless blue expanse. The whole effect is supremely relaxing. Everything is overseen by Lucia Garau, a seasoned hotelier who is happy to help with boat transfers, sourcing the ultimate sandals, and everything in between.

For something more intime, opt for La Scalinatella, a 30-room boutique hotel that has rooms high above the sea. With its white and azure theme, Scalinatella feels very Capri, and its quiet location ensures a peaceful escape. Lunch by the pool is a major plus.

The penthouse and sitting room at stunning J.K. Place. Photos: Courtesy of J.K. Place.

If money is no object, then a stay at J.K. Place is a no-brainer. The entire set-up — from the lobby library to the communal breakfast room to the airy suites — is pure chic. Situated on a spit of land overlooking Marina Grande, the whole J.K. vibe is one of relaxed elegance. It's the perfect place to while away days in the sun or in their world-class spa. Sip Bellinis by the pool on your tasteful lounge chair-cum-couch or feast on the restaurant's patio. Either way, this place is pure glamour.

MAP IT

See all the locations mentioned in this story. (Google Maps)

HOW TO GET THERE

Capri is not easily accessible, but it's certainly worth the effort. Fly to Rome and drive south to Naples where you will connect with a ferry to Capri (journey time approximately 5 hours). Frequent flights from London (British Airways, Alitalia, Easy Jet) to Naples make the trip easy for a long weekend.

FOR YOUR BEDSIDE TABLE

A few books and films that capture the essence of the island and surrounding area.

Books
In the Spirit of Capri, by Pamela Fiori
Red Sails To Capri, by Ann Weil
The Story of San Michele, by Dr. Axel Munthe
Greene on Capri: A Memoir, by Shirley Hazzard

Films
It Started in Naples (1960)
Paparazzi (1964)
The Talented Mr. Ripley (1999)

MORE ON FATHOM

Amalfi Coast and Capri Guide
Mediterranean Shop