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Finding Peace in Porto Ercole, Italy

Just off the Tuscan coastline equidistant to Rome and Florence lies Monte Argentario, a bizarrely-shaped peninsula connected to the mainland by three narrow strips of land. Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly and her family checked into Il Pellicano, a posh hotel in Porto Ercole on the southern end of the island.

Just off the Tuscan coastline equidistant to Rome and Florence lies Monte Argentario, a bizarrely-shaped peninsula connected to the mainland by three narrow strips of land. Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly and her family checked into Il Pellicano, a posh hotel in Porto Ercole on the southern end of the island.

There are a few places left on earth where genocide, the crumbling euro, and any sort of reality simply cease to exist. Il Pellicano, a luxurious yet laid back bolthole on Italy's Tuscan coast, is one such place. It's personal and cool, which makes it endearing. And it's a little shabby chic, which means there definitely won't be rappers or Russian oligarchs occupying the next beach chair.

My family and I recently spent a few languid days of sun, spa, and signature jumbo club sandwiches delivered poolside. Dolce vita indeed.

WHAT TO DO

Not too much. This is Italy, after all, where the stars of a "big" day are your iconic yellow-and-white pool lounger and copious amounts of the hotel's freshly squeezed succhi di frutta (apricot, peach, and blueberry varieties are excellent).

This is the place to quietly read, reflect, and play the odd game of tennis or backgammon. The most strenuous decision you'll encounter is whether to take a day trip on Pellicano's elegant wooden boat, Riva (so Med!), from the private, cliff-side dock or whether to order local langoustines for lunch.

Despite its price point (25 euros for a sandwich), Il Pellicano feels small, chic, and casual, with a library, DVDs, tennis rackets, and ping pong paddles all for communal use.

Definitely take it off campus at least once to explore nearby towns like Pitigliano, where you'll find Etruscan ruins and typical Tuscan trattorias. And Sovana, a medieval village with a wonderful palazzo and picturesque pizzas. Kids will love Il Giardino dei Tarocchi ("Tarot Garden"), Niki de Saint Phalle's brightly-colored sculptural park. Natural Park of Maremma is a wonderful place to see wildlife and explore the area on horseback.

MANGIARE BENE

Food is, naturally, a major focus of any Italian day, and the options here will not disappoint. Everything is delicious and locally sourced: the enormous breakfast served on an idyllic terrace, lunch al fresco at the Tuscan PelliGrill, and lavish, two-Michelin-starred Il Pellicano Ristorante. What this place really has going for it is that they serve food that you really want to eat — gazpacho, insalata caprese, and spaghetti alla chitarra ai frutti di mare (seafood galore) — and not overdone, complicated dishes.

That said, when the craving for a plain, wood-fired pizza strikes, you won't find it here. This is when you head into town for dinner on the charming Porto Ercole harbor, where you'll find a bustling, yet low-key nightlife that is focused on families wandering the piers and eating in outdoor trattorias. The best among these are Gambero Rosso and La Lampara (Lungo Mare Andrea Doria, 68; +39-0564-833024), where you'll eat the homemade pastas, line-caught seabass, and crispy pizzas that inspired your trip in the first place.

DON'T MISS

The chairs at the water's edge at Il Pellicano afford views of the deep, blue sea with majestic islands dotted across the horizon. This is the perfect place to watch scantily clad Europeans slather themselves in oil, light the occasional cigarette, and gesticulate wildly as they speak many different languages. Two days, and you'll feel completely removed from any worries you may have had going in.

The spa and gift shop are also pretty wonderful at Il Pellicano. The carefully curated store has Eres bathing suits, Anya Hindmarch bags with Porto Ercole imagery, and perfectly floaty sarongs that play well in this part of the world. This being Italy, the entire gym is yours to use — even at peak hours — which is a nice touch at such a small resort. Luxurious (if wildly expensive) massages and pedicures are also available with minimal advance notice.

If ever there were a place to sip tropical cocktails, it's at All'Aperto Bar, conveniently located between the pool and the main house. Watch dusk give way to starry skies with a summer Bellini (and at 23 Euros per, you might want just one) and raise a glass to your good fortune.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

There are a variety of room types at Il Pellicano. None work particularly well for families as they do not inter-connect. Then again, this place doesn't have kid-friendly written all over it any way, which I mean in the best possible way.


If you're looking for value for money, get a garden view room, which has a pleasant terrace and views of the tennis court or surrounding mountain landscape. Stunning rooms with sea views will more than triple the price but are ideal for special, secluded stays.

The drinks and snacks in the mini bar are free — though not much else is. Bring a bottle of water or an aranciata with you to the pool, and you'll save approximately 9 euros a pop.

GETTING THERE

Fly: One of the selling points of Porto Ercole — and the Maremma area of Tuscany in general — is its ease of execution on the travel front. Fly to Rome or Florence and you're gazing out over the sea in just under two hours.

Drive: The resort is on a cliff and it's not near much. You'll absolutely need to rent a car to get to there and to explore the small towns.

FIND IT

Il Pellicano
Località Sbarcatello 
58019 Porto Ercole 
Grosseto, Italy
+39-0564-858111
reservations@pellicanohotels.com 

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South Africa's Luxe and Low-Key Tswalu Redefines the Safari

Subtly luxurious lodgings and top-knotch guides come together to perfectly redefine "safari." Contributing editor Christina Ohly has her ultimate bespoke safari experience.

Subtly luxurious lodgings and top-knotch guides come together to perfectly redefine "safari." Contributing editor Christina Ohly has her ultimate bespoke safari experience.

KALAHARI DESERT, South Africa – From the moment I arrived at the Johannesburg airport for the flight to Tswalu, a truly unique game reserve located in the southern part of the Kalahari Desert, I knew this one was going to be different. My family and I boarded their luxurious Pilatus plane for the one-and-a-half hour hop to Tswalu's dedicated airstrip, warmly welcomed and escorted to a thatched roof terminal, and were greeted with thousands of chirping sociable weaver birds. The eco-adventure had begun!

What sets Tswalu apart is not so much its red sand dunes and sprawling grasslands — though those certainly make for spectacular viewing — but the completely relaxed pace and tasteful motse (the local Tswana word for "village") that create a safari unlike any other I've experienced. After checking into one of the eight spacious legae — "little houses" — you'll have to pry yourself from your sun terrace in order to take in the game which you've theoretically come to see. No detail has been overlooked, and while the suites are utterly simple (think minimalist contemporary furnishings mixed with traditional African baskets and art) the details — outdoor showers and big, open fireplaces — make them special.

Tswalu offers a bespoke safari experience. Gone are the 5 a.m. wake-up calls (unless you want them), endless off-schedule meals, and the quest for the Big Five. Tswalu — a thousand-square-kilometer reserve that is a labor of love for the Oppenheimer family — is all about conservation and land use, as well as the pursuit of animals that are not easily found elsewhere. Enormous black-maned Kalahari lions dazzle. So do families of frolicking meerkats, elegant giraffes strolling across open plains, and the elusive aardvark. It is also a birder's paradise, with over two hundred rare species readily on view. There is no sense of imminent danger here and that makes Tswalu what I refer to as "safari lite": you will constantly see, do, and learn, but without the threat of being some animal's next meal.

The guides and trackers are top-notch ecologists who lead safaris in a Land Rover, on horseback, or even on foot so that you can get up close to nature. Tracking takes on new meaning here. Our guide was happy to alight from the vehicle, rifle in hand, and bushwhack until he found prides of lions and desert black rhinos languishing in the mid-day sun. Other highlights included sleeping under the stars, eating a delicious lunch by the motse pool, and receiving authentic spa treatments that incorporate indigenous red dune sand, desert minerals, and botanical fibres. Add to this the absence of malaria and a warm community comprised of 142 staff members (plus a peek into their eco-friendly housing, preschool, dedicated health clinic, and adult literacy programmes) and you get a real sense of how Tswalu is transforming this massive area, in terms of both environmental conservation and education.

With only twenty guests at a time, Tswalu feels more like an intimate, low-key house party than a Relais & Chateaux nestled at the foot of the Korannaberg Mountains. Its stated mission is "to restore the Kalahari to itself"; and I left this magical place feeling as though I'd been restored to myself as well.

FIND IT

Tswalu Kalahari
+27-0-53-781-9331
res@tswalu.com

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Bahamas with the Kids: Harbour Island Essentials

It's not that this three-mile stretch of sand in the Bahamas is unknown. It’s that Harbour Island's relative inaccessibility has kept developers, big hotels, and obnoxious types away. Their loss is your gain: delicious food, the most pristine pink sand beach on the planet, just enough nightlife, and a pleasingly international vibe. (Nassau is an easy flight from Europe, which explains the Brits, the Italians, the French.) The perfect mix of local warmth and nice amenities, Harbour Island is a far cry from the kids clubs and sprawling spas so common at mega resorts. In other words, the island may be pricey, but that won’t stop the chickens and lizards from wandering across your patio.

WHERE TO STAY

The two-bedroom casitas at Pink Sands are great for families. The Balinese vibe was cultivated by the former owner, British music exec-turned-hotelier Chris Blackwell, and it leaves you feeling even farther away. The beach is gorgeous and the water is calm, clear, and shallow. Just down the path is Blue Bar, great for patio dining overlooking the sea — and for a Goombay Smash, the killer Bahamian rum drink that will kick anyone's ass. Coral Sands next door is under the same management and is another good option for cool parents and kids. Both properties have saltwater pools, but neither has fancy fitness facilities.

WHERE TO EAT

Head to town. The Landing is incomparable: amazing local ingredients (langoustines, grouper, fresh chicken curry), refined yet simple cuisine, a beautiful setting under trees, twinkling lights. Kids love the easy feeling of the India Hicks-backed venture; parents love lazing on outdoor settees aside the odd luminary. The Rolling Stones, Lenny Kravitz, Uma and Arki — all island regulars. (For more info, read The Landing postcard.) Mornings must begin with freshly baked Bahamian herb bread or croissants at Arthur's Bakery.

When you’re ready for a night without the progeny, ask Pink Sands to call a sweet sitter and head to Rock House for the gay/Euro/fabulous scene and the cuisine. Here, too, the focus is on fresh, locally caught fish and ingredients. The crowd stays late, lounging on couches around a central, sleek pool area. How totally Ibiza. 

WHAT TO DO

My kids loved taking a guided boat ride with Duke, a local conch and bone fisherman. Just ask for him at the town dock. The affable Duke picks up starfish, follows sea turtles, and finds shallow bays where kids can swim. Golf carts are de riguer on Harbour Island, and what kid doesn’t love a golf cart? The snorkeling is terrific, as is watching the conch guys come in with the day’s catch and clean the beautiful shells. It won’t take much to make you happy here. 

WHERE TO SHOP

All ages love the Dilly Dally, located at the main intersection in town, for Bahamamian straw goods, "briland" tees, postcards, and jewelry and ornaments crafted from pink conch shells. (In other words, the irresistible trinkets you buy on holiday and start questioning on the plane ride home.) India Hicks' Sugar Mill is the glamorous source for caftans, European finds, and beach gear. Ditto the Blue Rooster on King Street, where you'll find gorgeous sundresses, scarves, and unique sandals. Even a trip to mini-supermarket The Piggly Wiggly is good fun, just to see what came in on the boat from the mainland that day.

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First Look: Bahia Vik, Jose Ignacio

Bahia Vik, set to open any day now in Jose Ignacio, is already poised to be one of the hottest destinations of the winter season. Contributing editor Christina Ohly was one of the first to get a look around. 

Bahia Vik, set to open any day now in Jose Ignacio, is already poised to be one of the hottest destinations of the winter season. Contributing editor Christina Ohly was one of the first to get a look around. 

JOSE IGNACIO, Uruguay – If you're looking for the ultimate sunset, overlooking ten acres of sprawling dunes, then Bahia Vik has your name written all over it.

CHECKING IN

Set to open in winter 2014 in time for high season, the hotel is a perfect compliment to Vik Retreats sister properties Playa Vik, just down the beach, and Estancia Vik, their equestrian "farm" situated inland. Bahia Vik features contemporary Uruguayan art, sleek furnishings, and minimalist pools at every turn. Environmentally friendly casitas are understated yet luxurious at the same time and everything tastefully melds into the the oceanfront landscape.

In the Room

Eleven unique bungalows and 37 guest rooms and suites range in style and finish, but each incorporates indigenous Uruguayan woods and grey slate for an overall sleek aesthetic. Art remains a huge focus for at any Vik (don't miss the James Turrell light installation at Playa Vik next door), and here the exuberant artwork is not only decorative, but real conversation starters as well.

Room with a View

Rooms are wildly expensive in the high season, but you get what you pay for, and every service is top-notch yet low-key at the same time. I stayed in a two-bedroom suite with my preteen kids who loved the big, comfortable beds and excellent snacks.

Bahia-Vik-room4_big.jpg
Bahia-Vik-room_big.jpg
The bright, colorful, art-filled rooms.

The bright, colorful, art-filled rooms.


What's on Site

I love a hotel with separate swimming pools for kids and adults, as it takes the pressure off everyone involved. Not that you need a pool, as Magna beach at your doorstep has gentle surf and some of the best South American people watching you'll find anywhere. (Microscopic bikinis are de rigueur.) Bahia guests can horseback ride at the nearby Estancia property or stroll down the dunes for a perfectly grilled hamburger or fresh sushi at the Vik's La Susana restaurant. In addition, a state-of-art spa and a well-appointed gym offer healthy diversions (no lines at the latter!).

The Food

Breakfast includes a complimentary buffet of yogurts, cheeses, and freshly baked local delicacies, but fluffy omelettes and pancakes appear in record time as well. Soy latte? Gluten intolerance? Nothing seems to throw this crew off, and they are genuinely happy to please every palate.

This Place Is Perfect for

Anyone with a pulse. Families are in full effect at the holidays, but honeymooners can find peace and quiet in sun-filled courtyards and poolside.

But Not So Perfect For

A recluse. Although why would one come here in the first place? Jose Ignacio is about wonderful, communal asados, parties, and long days spent at the beach or on horseback. If you're Type A or in a hurry, best to give this a pass.

The setting. Photo courtesy of Vik Resorts.

The setting. Photo courtesy of Vik Resorts.


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History, Hollywood, Heaven: San Ysidro Ranch

Contributing editor Christina Ohly has a knack for finding the world's loveliest hotels. She's found her ultimate in Montecito, California.

Contributing editor Christina Ohly has a knack for finding the world's loveliest hotels. She's found her ultimate in Montecito, California.

SANTA BARBARA, California – History, old Hollywood, and hospitality in the extreme meet at San Ysidro Ranch, a citrus farm-turned-luxury hideaway nestled in the foothills above Montecito. I have wanted to visit this special hotel for years — and even noted it on my Fathom travel wish list — primarily because I'd heard such wonderful things about the food (almost all of it locally sourced), the laid-back atmosphere combined with scrupulous attention to detail, and the scenic hiking trails that surround the sprawling, 500-acre spread. I was not disappointed on any front, and San Ysidro Ranch has shot to the number one position on my list of favorite hotels of all time. We're talking an overall outstanding user experience — a 12 on a scale of 1-10. There are not adequate words to describe the perfection you'll find here, but it's an understatement to say that San Ysidro is worth a detour, a long weekend, a honeymoon, a mellow family vacation, or all of the above. We're talking Nirvana here.

Bliss at San Ysidro begins in the driveway.

Bliss at San Ysidro begins in the driveway.


It all begins upon check-in, which isn't really a registration at all, as you are greeted in the driveway and whisked straight to your lovely yet low-key cottage. No pesky paperwork here. They cater to a clientele that likes privacy: Silicon Valley techpreneurs, Hollywood starlets.

If you're really looking to splash out, the Ty Warner Cottage, with private patio and pool, is as swank as it gets.

If you're really looking to splash out, the Ty Warner Cottage, with private patio and pool, is as swank as it gets.


Our home for three days — and you really do feel as if the house is yours — came complete with sumptuous robes, stacks of reading material, and freshly made snacks at every turn. The difference here is in the little touches: endless chips and salsa, local wines on ice, crisp copies of the Financial Times at the crack of dawn. Nothing has been overlooked, and sitting on my bougainvillea-laden porch watching the sunset with a cold Diet Coke in hand was simply perfection.

Bungalow-style cottages are individually designed, with big sitting rooms, tons of amenities, and peaceful terraces.

Bungalow-style cottages are individually designed, with big sitting rooms, tons of amenities, and peaceful terraces.


The Magnolia room has cozy spaces and a wood-burning fireplace.

The Magnolia room has cozy spaces and a wood-burning fireplace.


Bathrooms have high ceilings and claw-foot bathtubs.

Bathrooms have high ceilings and claw-foot bathtubs.


Each cottage is decorated differently, and whether you're in the most basic one-bedroom or in the spacious Ty Warner Cottage (so named after the current owner and Beanie Baby entrepreneur), the bathrooms have soaring ceilings and tubs that are made for soaking. The décor is not the least bit slick or mod, but rather country chic, which only adds to the overall charm and ambience.

The main hacienda — the reception area — was once the focal part of the ranch and now provides a spacious place for people to commune with others (never happens), play board games, and enjoy a constant supply of warm cookies. You're likely to run into Seamus McManus, an Irishman and a consummate hotelier who is happy to share stories about the Ranch and its celebrity-studded past: Audrey Hepburn, Bing Crosby, Winston Churchill, and President and Jackie Kennedy all spent time here, and Hollywood's A-list now comes with kids in tow.

The Stonehouse patio serves delicious food, much of it from the Ranch's organic garden.

The Stonehouse patio serves delicious food, much of it from the Ranch's organic garden.


The Plow & Angel serves SoCal versions of classic pub fare.

The Plow & Angel serves SoCal versions of classic pub fare.


The highlights (and there are so many) are the hotel's two restaurants — the slightly more formal Stonehouse and the relaxed Plow & Angel, where farm-to-table eating takes on a whole new meaning. Much of the produce is grown on the Ranch's organic garden and the cuisine is simply top-notch — and brilliantly simple. I had some of the best wood-fired pizzas and sashimi I've ever tasted beneath an arbor of twinkling orange trees. This being wine country, the lists are extensive, and the sommeliers are approachable and happy to educate anyone (my curious kids included) about local vintages and $5,000 bottles alike. Breakfast is not served in either restaurant, as guests typically prefer to take it in their rooms in front of the fireplace or on their front porch with sweeping views and fragrant magnolia and orange blossoms.

The chic simple pool area.

The chic simple pool area.


There are more than seventeen miles of manicured yet challenging hiking trails that run through the property, as well as a minimalist-chic hilltop pool that I could easily spend a month lolling beside.

Nestled in the foothills of Montecito, San Ysidro Ranch has about five hundred acres of spectacular gardens, hiking trails, and elegant cottages.

Nestled in the foothills of Montecito, San Ysidro Ranch has about five hundred acres of spectacular gardens, hiking trails, and elegant cottages.


With 360° degree views of the Santa Ynez Mountains and the Pacific Ocean, San Ysidro Ranch will make you forget civilization in the best possible way. You'll only interact with other guests as you'd like. I can still see the California light, taste the scrumptious food, and feel the gentle warmth of that Santa Barbara sun. I'm hoping my Zen lasts until I can return to this utterly tasteful, tranquil spot.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Fly: Santa Barbara Municipal Airport is 15 miles away. Otherwise, Los Angeles is about 100 miles south. San Ysidro Ranch is located just off Highway 101.

FIND IT

San Ysidro Ranch
900 San Ysidro Lane
Santa Barbara, CA
+1-805-565-1700
guestservice@sanysidrorancy.com
sanysidroranch.com

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Hey Kids, Let's Go to LA

Los Angeles: A surprisingly great place for a quick family getaway. Three days is all you need to see a little bit of everything.

Los Angeles: A surprisingly great place for a quick family getaway. Three days is all you need to see a little bit of everything.

LOS ANGELES – Looking for a great warm-weather getaway that includes sun, sand, sea, and a James Beard Award-winning taco truck or two? Search no further than Los Angeles, one of my favorite spots for kids and grown-ups alike. And remember: No matter what the weather is where you are right now, it's always summer in LA.

SETTLE IN

Los Angeles is usually an easy place to get to with frequent flyer miles, which saves a nice penny. Once you've landed at LAX, with its Jetsons-esque control tower, head straight for the Fairmont Miramar in seaside Santa Monica. Less well known than nearby Shutters and Casa del Mar hotels, the Miramar offers the perfect mix of old Hollywood (bungalows and industry types taking meetings on the patio) and proximity to the beach. The property is off Ocean Boulevard, just five minutes from the Santa Monica Pier (aka Kid Heaven) and the hotel's fully-staffed beach cabanas, where you'll feel secluded amidst tall palms and relative calm.

DAY 1: The Warm-Up

If you're living large, book a bi-level bungalow. They're perfect for families and offer multiple terraces for swimsuit drying and picnics of decadent room service pancakes. The pool area is, of course, key for any kid, and the Miramar's amorphous version — complete with hot tub — doesn't disappoint. Ditto Fig Restaurant, which is twenty feet from the pool area. Hotel restaurant haters out there, stop your eyerolling and prepare for foodie greatness. Chef Ray Garcia's creative take on the classic California chopped salad features only fresh, organic, locally grown ingredients from the nearby Santa Monica Farmers Market. Everyone will love simple grilled cheese (gruyère or cheddar with tomato jam), pasta-less lasagna, and BLTs that are beyond compare.


After idling and eating, you'll want to take it off-campus. I find the best days with children include a mix of culture, playgrounds, and delicious food. Head up shop-lined Montana Avenue to the outdoor mini-mall Brentwood Country Mart. "Mini-mall" may be a stretch: Reese Witherspoon buys her trendy cover-ups and artisinal ice cream cones here. Kids will love pony rides in the parking lot on weekends and fish tacos and fries in the "food court." I stock up on tiny Tretorn tennies at Poppy Store, possibly my favorite children's store in the United States. A one-stop shop for toys, gifts, and basics, Poppy carries a perfectly edited mix of tasteful European brands (like England's Caramel Baby and Child) and American originals — all perfectly packaged, too. Kids will be distracted by the 25-cent ride-on toys outside the shop's window (talk about a throwback), allowing parents time to shop in peace.

Finish your day at Pizzeria Mozza, Mario Batali and Nancy Silverton's Hollywood hotspot with the best pies on the planet. Top the killer crust with the basics (margherita for beginners) or squash blossoms and speck for more sophisticated palates. This spot packs quickly, so book online if possible or suck it up and endure the line. If you have room for dessert, swing by Menchie's on the way back to the hotel for DIY frozen yogurt creations, complete with 40 colorful candy toppings.

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DAY 2: A Malibu Mindset 

Start with breakfast at Cora's Coffee Shoppe, a sweet local hangout with Illy cappuccino, blueberry-banana-orange smoothies, and burrata caprese omelettes. Once you're appropriately fortified, head north up the Pacific Coast Highway for a day in picturesque Malibu. Make reservations at the kid-friendly Getty Center and Villa and roam the endless gardens that overlook the Pacific Ocean. All ages will be mesmerized by the museum's Greek and Roman treasures and collections of armor, coins, and beautiful photography by Atget and Walker Evans, among others.

After so much fresh air and light, you'll want to pack it in early. The best, old-school supper in town is at Ivy by the Shore (1535 Ocean Avenue; 310-393-3113) in Santa Monica. Ask for patio seating and feast on American classics with a SoCal flair: more chopped vegetable salads, pizzas, and decadent sundaes. Added bonus: The kitschy Hawaiian theme provides built-in entertainment for kids while parents people-watch. Stroll over to the twinkling Santa Monica Pier, which comes alive at sunset, before heading back to your hotel oasis.

 

DAY 3: Go Glam

When in LA, give in to its twin cultural pillars: celebrity and sunshine. A perfect third and final day includes breakfast to go from Huckleberry Cafe and Bakery. Who knew that star sightings pair so perfectly with prosciutto-stuffed croissants and Niman Ranch bacon-maple biscuits? (Huckleberry's new offshoot, Milo + Olive, serves delicious wood-fired pizzas, locally sourced everything, and great wines by the glass.) Head up Wilshire Boulevard to the eclectic Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), so kids can explore the Boone Children's Gallery before hitting the Page Museum and its oozing, prehistoric La Brea Tar Pits.

That's enough looking and learning. Time to repair to the Beverly Hills Hotel for a little lunch and Polo Lounge-ing. The pink landmark has verdant grounds, secluded spots for hide and seek, and one seriously glamorous pool scene. Your biggest decision here will be where to eat, and you'll want to let the kids tiumph with their choice: The Fountain Coffee Room, a 1950s gem of an old-fashioned soda fountain with bar stools, great burgers, malts, and floats. The only things missing are Bogey and Bacall and Lucy and Desi.

If you have energy to burn, make your last stop Griffith Park, a massive play space that is home to the Los Angeles Zoo, the Griffith Observatory, pony rides, a miniature train system, the Greek Theatre, and much more. Rent bikes to reach the merry-go-round built in 1926 near the Los Feliz entrance, where all 68 horses are jumpers wearing bejeweled bridles. How can you not love LA?

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Fathom's Los Angeles Guide: For hotels, restaurants, shops, sites, itineraries, and more.

MAP IT

See all the locations in this story. (Google Maps)

Photos: Courtesy of Poppy Store; Christina Ohly.



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Zen Out in Paso Robles, California

Low-key and lovely, the Central Coast region of California is being hailed as the new Napa for its undulating hills and vineyards, proximity to the ocean, and stunning scenery. From food and wine galore and landmarks like Hearst Castle to the spectacular rocky beach at Morro Bay, this is a relatively undiscovered gem of a destination — though probably not for much longer.

Paso Robles ("Pass of the Oaks" in Spanish), in San Luis Obispo County, is located midway between San Francisco and Los Angeles, which makes it a great side trip from either, as well as a destination in its own right. The prices are lower and the vibe is more laid-back than Napa and Sonoma. The area feels authentic, a total mix — farm workers and fancy types, gay and straight — which make everything feel inclusive and interesting. Unwind while you sip varietals, lounge by the pool, and hang with genuine cowboys. By all means, bring the kids.

WHAT TO DO

Morning Fuel

The name doesn't scream "breakfast," but locals line up out the door at Hoover's Beef Palace (401 N. Main St., Templeton; +1-805-434-2114) for homemade sausage patties with eggs and enormous biscuits with gravy. This place is so legit that a) they don't have a website, but b) they do have their own slaughterhouse out back. If Hoover's is good enough for area ranchers and farm hands, it's good enough for you. Bonus: You'll banish that teensy weensy hangover you might have sustained from a wine tasting or two (or four) the day before.

Play

If you're in Paso Robles on the weekend, stop at Templeton Farmer's Market for the crazy bounty: artichokes the size of bowling balls, fresh berries, and baked goods. Kids will love the on-site playground and pony rides. For further running around, Barney Schwartz Park has a one-million-gallon lake, pavilions for picnics, and endless playing fields. See how olive oil is made at Pasolivo farm and mill. Their oils make for great souvenirs. 

Eat

McPhee's Grill in downtown Templeton serves a delicious bistro lunch with no-fuss attitude. Ancho duck and cheese quesadilla and pulled pork sandwich with shoestring fries are unparalleled. Follow up with a trip to Powell's Sweet Shoppe for dessert. If you're with kids, show them exactly how ancient you are when you buy candy by the decade. Everyone should know Wax Lips, Fruit Stripe gum, and Gobstoppers.

For a casual picnic, stock up on made-to-order sandwiches at Farmstand 46. Of special note, the Calamity Jane: roasted pork, cilantro, pickled daikon and carrots, and rooster aioli on a crusty baguette.

For dinner, go to the lovely Artisan Restaurant, where gouda and porter fondue with andouille, broccolini, and garlic bread is a little slice of heaven. Thomas Hill Organics serves lunch and dinner, with much on the plate coming from their family-run organic farm.  

At 15 Degrees C Wine Shop and Bar, you can taste and buy small-production Central Coast wines. Il Cortile Ristorante serves terrific Italian at lunch and dinner.  

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Drink. A Lot.

When in Rome...Great soil conditions, proximity to the ocean, and mixed microclimates: That's the secret behind the hot new wine region's great products. Winemakers around here like to think outside the box, and they're producing interesting and great wines, especially in Rhône varietals. There are more than 200 Paso producers, and many of the best are small, family-owned wineries. Pace yourself. There's a lot to taste. 

- Venteux Vineyards (pictured above): Don't miss their incredible Farmhouse Cuvee. Here's a head start on your tasting notes: "I sense hints of lavender, black cherry, fig preserves, and sage."

- Halter Ranch Vineyard: Make for the hills for Côtes de Paso and a fine cabernet sauvignon. The spectacular 900-acre ranch historically produced its wines in an old airplane hangar but recently moved operations to a swanky new gravity-flow winery.

- AmByth Estate: The only certified biodynamic winery in the region.

- Saxum Vineyards: You can't visit the vineyard, but you can buy their noteworthy Syrah, as well as grenache and mourvèdre blends.

- And a few more good ones: Bella Luna Estate Winery, Booker Vineyard, Villa Creek Cellars (they have a restaurant in Paso Robles)

As for the well-known wineries, the ones to visit are: 

- Turley Wine Cellars: Their big, bold zinfandel has a serious cult following, so be prepared to pay up: Bottles often trade at two to three times suggested retail prices. At Turley, you can sample many old-vine zinfandels from all over California, as well as from three local vineyards. The estate and the beautiful tasting room are on the old Pesenti Vineyard, which has zinfandel vines that are more than 85 years old.

- Justin Vineyards and Winery: Located down the road from Halter Ranch. Come on Saturdays and Sundays to feast al fresco at Deborah's Room, before hitting yet another tasting room for a sip of their "Left Bank, Bordeaux-style" blend, Isosceles.

- Tablas Creek Vineyard: The terroir in Las Tablas is similar to that of Châteauneuf du Pape. The estate's signature wines are Esprit de Beaucastel and Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc. 

If you don't want to drive, call Lush Limo for a full-service tour. (This is a great idea for non-tacky bachelor/bachelorette weekends, though, please, avoid the white stretch at all costs.)

Be Merry

Paso Robles loves itself a party.

- Anytime: Happy Acres Family Farm is a goat farm with more than 200 goats, alpacas, and miniature horses, where kids can milk the animals and make cheese. 

- March, May, October: The third weekends of the month are wine festivals. See calendar.

- July: The Fourth of July parade features floats and flags galore. Mid-State Fair combines musical acts, horse shows, and olive oil competition. "The Great American Road Trip" is the theme for 2012. 

- October: Pioneer Day is a festival of kindness and community spirit (how refreshing!). Harvest Wine Weekend celebrates a good old-fashioned grape crushing.

- December: Christmas Light Parade: For pure holiday kitsch.

Go Coastal

Make time for a scenic drive through the vineyards and over the mountains to the majestic San Luis Obispo Coast, where enormous elephant seals stage epic battles and their young pups bob in the surf. Just down Highway 1 is Mediterranean-inspired Hearst Castle, with its dazzling 165 rooms, endless gardens, and shimmering pools. Finish up any day in nearby seaside town Cayucos with a meal in the back garden at Hoppe's Garden Bistro, followed by brown-butter sea salt cookies at Brown Butter Cookie Company.

WHERE TO STAY

Hotels: Hotel Cheval is a lovely 16-room boutique hotel with a European vibe and a welcoming pet program. Centrally located Paso Robles Inn has hot springs, a low-key spa, and a heated pool.

B&Bs: Small, family-run inns are the name of the game here. One of the best for local color is the two-room guest house at Venteux Vineyards. If that's full, ask about their Red Barn next door. Both offer a farm-stay feel, and kids will love the pool, sport court, and tractor rides. Orchard Hill Farm is an elegant — and much beloved — English-style manor house. Cass House Inn and Restaurant in Cayucos is convenient to Hearst Castle and the cute seals in San Luis State Park.

Homes: Rent a house through Paso Robles Vacation Rentals.

HOW TO GET THERE

Fly: San Luis Obispo Airport (SLO), located 24 miles from Paso Robles, is a complete delight in today's travel terms. It's small, manageable, and has several rental car agency options, as well as taxis. Fly United Airlines from Los Angeles and San Francisco or US Airways from Phoenix.

Drive: San Francisco is about three hours away; Los Angeles about three and a half. Depending, as ever, on traffic. 

WEATHER

Come prepared for California's highest swing between daytime highs and nighttime chills.
- Average high/low temperatures in Farenheit: 87/50 in summer, 60/34 in winter.
- April-October: highs from mid-70s to mid-90s.
- March and November: highs in mid-70s.
- December-February: highs in low 60s.

MAP IT

See the locations on this trip. (Google Maps)

BEST OF THE WEB

- The Complete Guide to America's Hottest New Wine Country (Details, April 2011)
- Paso Robles Celebrates Harvest Weekend (Travel + Leisure, October 2011) 
- Planning Your Trip to Paso Robles (Los Angles Times, January 2010) 
- Robert Parker on the Promise of Paso Robles (Food & Wine, October 2007)

LOCAL COLOR

- City of Paso Robles: official website
- Paso Robles Official Visitor Site 
- Paso Robles Wine: winery information, maps, and events calendars from Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance
- Paso Robles Winery Map 
- Hoot 'n' Annie: wine blog
- The Tribune/SanLuisObispo.com: news and information

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Everything You Need to Know to Have a Perfect Beach Vacation in Jose Ignacio, Uruguay

While Jose Ignacio is hardly a travel secret anymore, it's still low-key enough to feel like an insider's destination. Contributing editor Christina Ohly reveals everything Fathom readers could ever need to know about how to have a perfect beach trip to Uruguay.

While Jose Ignacio is hardly a travel secret anymore, it's still low-key enough to feel like an insider's destination. Contributing editor Christina Ohly reveals everything Fathom readers could ever need to know about how to have a perfect beach trip to Uruguay.

JOSE IGNACIO, Uruguay – Old Montauk meets Malibu in Jose Ignacio and the coastal towns surrounding Punta del Este in Southeastern Uruguay. Here you'll find everything from surf shacks to gauchos in traditional garb, not to mention delicious communal asados (barbecues) set on wide Atlantic beaches. Punta del Este serves as an entry point to a series of lovely fishing villages and quieter inland destinations such as Garzón, the Deco throwback set amongst verdant, rolling hills that is home to famed Argentine chef Francis Mallman's hotel and restaurant, Garzon.

The iconic lighthouse.

The iconic lighthouse.


THE SCENE

For beach chic with an artisanal vibe, this area is impossible to beat. Jose Ignacio is hardly a travel secret anymore, but the destination is only going to get more and more popular. So magical is the entire scene that you should just book your trip now.

And although this gets tossed around like a bad travel brochure cliche, there truly is something for everyone in this part of the world. For the avid, athletic types, there's horseback riding, biking, and invigorating swims. For the chaise lounger, there's poolside capriroskas (a cocktail borrowed from neighboring Brazil), endless massages, and long lunches at La Huella (as seen in Michelle Lehman's Just Back from Jose Ignacio, and I agree wholeheartedly with her ringing endorsement of this special spot by the sea).

Kids of all ages are enchanted, too, by the rugged mix of cowboy culture (horseback riding is accessible to all), polo ponies (in the high season which lasts the few, short weeks between Christmas and mid-January), and swims in the 20-meter Absolute Nero stone pools that have twinkling under water "constellations" (an added bonus at all Vik hotels.)

Lunch at Fish Market. Photo by Christina Ohly.

Lunch at Fish Market. Photo by Christina Ohly.


LAY OF THE LAND

After landing in either Montevideo or Punta del Este, head straight for the laid-back village of Jose Ignacio. You'll pass the picturesque 1877 lighthouse and the stunningly simple mid-century modern beach homes owned by the likes of Shakira and Argentine hotelier Alan Faena.

Drive along the coastline (preferably in an open-top Jeep) through the villages of La Barra, El Chorro, Punta Pedras, and Manantiales. Plan on spending a few hours in Manantiales to visit Atchugarry Foundation, the workshop of master sculptor/local hero Pablo Atchugarry and also to stock up on beach gear at the many great surf stores in the area and house décor with playful prints at Roberta Roller Rabbit. Try to come hungry, so you can have delicately fried cod sandwiches and fresh gazpacho on the whitewashed patio at stylish Fish Market (Ruta 10, km 163.5; +598-42-774-431).

Word to the wise: Before you set off on any expedition, you should know that there aren't many petrol stations or cash machines in this part of the world. You'll want to stock up on gas and pesos at the Ancap at the roundabout in Jose Ignacio before heading too far off the beaten path.

Ride on. 

Ride on. 


IF YOU ONLY DO ONE THING

Go Horseback Riding
I hadn't been on a horse in 20+ years and had no interest in saddling up again. Yet the charming gauchos (who smile sweetly and speak no English) and the spectacular scenery made this a memorable activity for our entire family — my husband, myself, and my tween son and daughter.

An excursion is easy to arrange because riding is included at many hotels — Estancia Vik, Casa Suaya, and Garzon among them. Horses are typically kept on property and thus don't have to be booked days in advance. The docile breed of Uruguayan horses seem comfortable with riders of all (read: zero) ability, which made for relaxing trail rides through diverse, meadow-filled terrain.




playa-vik_big.jpg
The impressive architecture at Playa Vik. Photos by Christina Ohly.

The impressive architecture at Playa Vik. Photos by Christina Ohly.


WHERE TO STAY

You'll notice a lot of Vik hotels in this list. For good reason: Team Vik excels at creating innovative, cool, stunning places you'll never want to leave.

Estancia Vik
Camino Eugenio Sainz Martínez; +598-94-60-5212 / +598-94-60-5314
Set on 4,000 stunning acres of pasture and gently rolling hills, this is a house stay unlike any other. Each of the 12 suites were designed by a contemporary Uruguayan artist, giving the estancia the feel a modern museum housed in a stunning, authentic villa. No detail is overlooked, and the kind staff — including the resident gauchos — look after restaurant bookings, trail rides, and spa treatments. An eco-friendly emphasis and a killer Saturday night asado are but a few of the many lovely bonuses.

Playa Vik
Calle Los Cisnes and Calle Los Horneros; +598-94-60-5212 / +598-94-60-5314
The Vik group's original beach property has an extremely modernist feel, all glass facades, fire pits, and artwork, most notably a James Turrell light installation and a Zaha Hadid-designed table in the main house. Especially impressive is the 75-meter cantilevered swimming pool that seems to jut out over the sea, to say nothing for the grass-topped villas designed by starchitect Carlos Ott. In other words, the entire place is nothing if not striking and unique.

Bahia Vik
+598-94-60-5212 / +598-94-60-5314
Set to open in winter 2014 in time for high season, the hotel features contemporary Uruguayan art, separate swimming pools for kids and adults, and environmentally friendly casitas that are understated yet luxurious at the same time. Located directly on the beach, Bahia guests can horseback ride at the nearby Estancia property or stroll down the dunes for a perfectly grilled hamburger or fresh sushi at the Vik's La Susana restaurant.

Posada del Faro
Luis E. Schickendantz and Del Timonel; +598-44-862-110
A relatively affordable option with rooms facing a small pool and Jose Ignacio bay in the distance.

Vintage rules. Photos courtesy of Casa Zinc.

Vintage rules. Photos courtesy of Casa Zinc.

Casa Zinc
Calle 9 and Carlos Gardel, La Barra; +598-99-620-066 / +598-42-773-003
A small hotel in the village of La Barra that will appeal to lovers of vintage furniture and intimate environments. Owner Aaron Hojman has amassed a charming collection of local finds mixed with flea market treasures from the UK and beyond.

Casa Suaya
Ruta 10, km 185.5; +54-11-4771-1667 / +598-44-862-750
A lovely and simple boutique bolthole with a charming boho feel. Accommodations include two bedroom suites (bonus for families), Butia restaurant, a large pool, and horseback riding.

Garzon
Costa Jose Ignacio and La Capilla, Garzón; +598-44-102-811
An incredibly special inn (one of Fathom's World's Most Romantic Hotels) run by chef extraordinaire Francis Mallman that draws an international foodie crowd for meals and overnight stays in the give guest rooms centered on an open courtyard and pool. Diners feast outside or in the intimate dining room on beautiful meat, fish, and vegetables prepared on a massive iron grill using a traditional infernillo technique. (Mallman is world-renown for his grilling style.)

La-Susana_big.jpg
Lunch is served at La Susana. Photos courtesy of La Susana.

Lunch is served at La Susana. Photos courtesy of La Susana.

WHERE TO EAT

The question is where not to eat, as the food – all kinds of cuisines and at all price points – is just so good.

La Caracola
Address emailed after booking; +598-94-223-015
A beach club on a small island from the folks behind local favorite La Huella. You have to take a private boat to get here, and your just rewards are wonderful snacks, light seafood meals, and cleric, a white wine sangria. The fee is $180 per day, and you need to book well in advance.

Marismo
Ruta 10, km 185; +598-42-486-2273
A special, candle-lit spot that can be difficult to find in the dark but is worth the journey for braised lamb and the grilled catch of the day. The atmosphere is magical. Book well in advance.

La Susana
Ruta 10, km 182.5; +598-44-862-823 / +598-95-192-555
A casual beach club and restaurant that serves everything from grilled snapper and pizzas to Norwegian vodka produced by the Vik family. A festive bamboo bar in the sand draws all kinds. Children frolick freely, larger groups spread out, and the party lasts well into the night.

La Olada
Ruta 10, km 181.5; +598-44-862-745 / +598-99-337-908
Soft candlelight sets the stage for a delicious meal of fresh salads, pastas, and grilled meats at this quiet spot inland. Ubiquitous wood-fired pizzas make for delicious appetizers, and the whole place feel very homey in the best possible way. (Those are the owner's dog and cat meandering about.)

Everyone is happy at La Huella.

Everyone is happy at La Huella.

La Huella
Calle de Los Cisnes; +598-44-862-279
Widely regarded as a gastronomic mecca, the beachside spot deserves its reputation and should be everyone's first stop. The setting is magical — soft music, neutral colored wood decks, and candlelight set the scene by night — as are the crispy octopus and line-caught sea bass. Creative sushi dishes, wood-fired pizzas, and housemade dulce de leche ice cream were other consistent winners And I should know, because I literally ate seven meals in a row here.

Almacen el Palmar
Plaza de Jose Ignacio; +598-44-862-102
One of my favorite meals in Uruguay. From delicious poppy seed rolls with tapenade to perfectly grilled fish and Provençal pastas by gregarious chef Jean Paul Bondoux, who wanders freely around the patio and dining room. Almacen is an all-day affair, with freshly baked croissants and breads available in the morning and wonderful cheeses in the adjacent deli throughout the day. Dinner, served indoors on the lovely, canopied outdoor patio, is a must.

Namm
Ruta 10, km 185; +598-486-2526
I am ever the fan of Japanese food, and this place serves the freshest sushi (and grilled meats) I've had anywhere. The wooden bungalow setting adds to the overall experience.

Beach chic. Photo courtesy of El Canuto.

Beach chic. Photo courtesy of El Canuto.

WHERE TO SHOP

Santas Negras
Camino Eugenio Saiz Martinez and Los Lobos; +598-44-862-262
The mid-century modern, two-story boutique just outside town has been lovingly curated by Paula Martini (wife of La Huella owner Martin Pittaluga) and Patricia Torres, who filled it with vintage furniture, decorative objects, featherweight cashmere sweaters, and playful jewelry that works well at the casual, evening barbecue parties they host out back. Don't miss the atmospheric café patio for delicious cappuccinos, capirinhinas, and panini.

Mutate
Café de la Place (in front of Plaza Jose Ignacio); +598-44-862-703
Stocks great vintage and designer clothing for men and women.

El Canuto
Calle de Los Cisnes; +598-44-862-028
The place for caftans, lingerie, and other beach basics.

Alium
Costa Jose Ignacio, Garzón; +598-99-128-672
A great design-led shop further inland in Garzón.

Talabarteria Benitez
Calle Maldonado and Calle 25 de Agosto, San Carlos; no phone.
The old-school gaucho supply shop in the village of San Carlos is the place to source a wide assortment of leather chaps and silver adornments.

The Jose Ignacio Supermarket
I love to go to the grocery store to take in the local color, and this one sells everything: beach basics (chips and salty snacks), refined deli fare, meats, cheeses, fruits, and vegetables.

WHAT YOU'LL KNOW ON THE LAST DAY THAT YOU WISH YOU HAD KNOWN ON THE FIRST

Bring Cash — and Lots of It
This is not neighboring Argentina where everything is cheap. It's a relatively pricey area with very few cash machines. US dollars are generally welcome.

Pack Light — Really Light
Think haute-hippie hideaway, where high season temperatures can soar past 100 degrees and there is no need for anything fancy. I overpacked by a wide margin and could have made do with a bathing suit, sarong, T-shirt, shorts, and sneakers (mandatory for horseback riding).

Take Great Care When Booking Restaurants
You don't want to miss a meal in Uruguay. The restaurants and cafes are fantastic — at all price points. Area specialties include delicious grilled fish, sushi and ceviches, steak (of course), and housemade helado (ice cream). Places book well in advance — especially hotspots like La Huella, Garzon, and Marismo. Not that you're at risk of going hungry, considering how many under-the-radar gems you'll find everywhere. Among my favorites were La Olada, Parador al Almacen, Namm, and La Susana — all casual and festive, serving traditional, often wood-fired fare. This is the kind of food and drink that makes everyone happy, so book in advance if you can.

HOW TO GET THERE

It's very easy from the United States, with direct flights to Buenos Aires International Airport (EZE) on both American Airlines and Aerolineas Argentinas. You'll have to transfer to BA's smaller airport, Jorge Newbery (AEP),which can be a pain, especially if there's traffic, to catch a flight to Punta Del Este (PDE) on Aerolineas Argentinas, Pluna, or Buquebus. The drive to Jose Ignacio from Punta Del Este is approximately 45 minutes.

Another option is flying into Carrasco International Airport (MVD) in Montevideo, the capital of Uruguay, via Miami on American Airlines. The drive to Jose Ignacio is approximately 90 minutes, and rental cars must be booked well in advance.

VISAS

While there are no visa requirements for either Argentina or Uruguay, you will need to pre-pay a reciprocity fee if you travel through Argentina.

WHEN TO GO

I can't imagine there is a wrong time to go to Uruguay, but spring and fall — shoulder seasons leading into winter and summer — are completely delightful. With bright blue skies, temperatures averaging in the mid-70s, and an absence of crowds, March and April are the perfect times to explore — and to secure bookings at all of the area's stellar restaurants.
The winter holidays bring throngs from Argentina and Brazil, but nothing feels over-run, as there are no glitzy mega hotels catering to the St. Tropez club set. That said, these people like to party — very late into the night — so it's all about invitations to house parties and elaborate asados feasts of local beef (the best I've ever tasted — period), assorted vegetables, and locally caught corvina negra (white drum fish).

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Maine at Its Beachy, Old-School, Down-Home Best

Sometimes you need an escape from the mundane — and sometimes that escape can bring you back to another decade. The Black Point Inn is the perfect New England getaway when you're feeling nostalgic for the 1930s. Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly shows us why this little-known Maine town is the perfect chill spot for any age.

Sometimes you need an escape from the mundane — and sometimes that escape can bring you back to another decade. The Black Point Inn is the perfect New England getaway when you're feeling nostalgic for the 1930s. Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly shows us why this little-known Maine town is the perfect chill spot for any age.

PROUT'S NECK, Maine – I was in Prout's Neck, a scenic part of coastal Maine, for a brief summer getaway from NYC, and it might just be my new New England favorite spot. First and foremost is ease of use: Prout's Neck is exactly eleven miles — a twenty-minute drive — from the manageable Portland JetPort (PWM) which is served by Delta and JetBlue, among other airlines. While Maine is, by definition, "wicked far" from virtually anywhere, this bucolic area is easily accessible and feels an entire, old-school world away.

CHECKING IN

Overview

Black Point Inn is a throwback to another era — one when dark and stormy cocktails were savored on sweeping porches overlooking a rugged Atlantic coastline. Time has stopped here — in the best possible way — and the historical 25-room inn still feels like someone's grand guesthouse — albeit one straight of out an Edith Wharton or Henry James novel.

The shingled beachside escape was built in the 1870s and continues to be a central meeting point for locals and visitors alike. It is now owned by a consortium of the town's residents and is overseen by the Migis Hotel Group, a local Maine management company, and balances a classic, intimate atmosphere with a few state-of-the-art updates (WiFi, flat-screen TVs, and an unexpectedly well-equipped gym). The rooms and suites are spacious, and many have breathtaking views of the beaches on three sides of the property, as well as the lushly landscaped gardens. The shingle-style hotel has been lovingly restored, right down to the sun porch, where guests gather for afternoon tea (with freshly baked cookies), traditional board games, and The New York Times. This is the quintessential Down East inn, and one where kind and attentive service make for a truly delightful stay.

Claim to Fame

The Inn has several claims to fame, but chief among them are the spectacular sunsets overlooking Sand Dollar Beach. From a perch at one of the outside tables at the Chart Room, you can sip local Shipyard Summer Ale or a glass of rosè and feast on twin lobsters and plates of Damiriscotta oysters and watch the brilliant orange and red hues yield to a starry night sky.

Another special touch that Black Point Inn affords is access — to everything. Kind concierges will arrange a round of golf at the nearby Prout's Neck Country Club or a morning of tennis — on clay, natch. Guests at the Inn have unique access to Winslow Homer's studio just up the road. A stay here makes one feel like a well-connected insider.

The Food

Breakfast on the porch overlooking the sea is a total highlight, and the helpful servers are happy to provide everything: real oatmeal with brown sugar, blueberry pancakes, healthy egg white omelets. Delicious, red bliss potato hash browns and thick-cut bacon make this feel like a total holiday. The warm sun at your back only adds to the overall idyllic effect.

Dinner in The Chart Room is casual, with offerings like wedge salads, shrimp cocktail, and perfect burgers, or slightly more formal in The Point Restaurant. I love a restaurant with traditional white tablecloths, fresh seafood chowder, and just-picked corn and tomatoes that serves supper between six and eight p.m. nightly. You're so relaxed, that's bedtime anyway.

Room with a View

There are 25 rooms in various categories located in the historic shingle-style building, many with ocean or bay views, terraces, and sweet wicker furniture. Inter-connecting rooms work well for families, while Spinnaker Suites and Commodore's Chambers offer enormous, well-appointed bathrooms and separate sitting areas. The furnishing are Ye Olde New England — a mix of antiques and replicas — that are comfortable and in keeping with the overall aesthetic. This is not a minimalist's dream scenario, but it makes for a cosseting stay. Room 215 was particularly lovely and featured an enormous living room, a bedroom with two queen beds, and unparalleled views of July 4th fireworks in the distance.

This Place Is Perfect For

A huge dose of New England charm. It's also perfect for anyone who can't tolerate long car rides, but wants to feel transported to another, more quaint place and time. For anyone who likes to play Scrabble, read by a roaring fire, and eat oyster crackers, the Black Point Inn is pretty much your Nirvana.

But Not So Perfect For

Modernists, minimalists, or anyone that doesn't appreciate a bit of old-school, chintzy cool. Black Point Inn could be construed as fusty, but I prefer to think of it as old-world glamorous.

CHECKING OUT

Neighborhood Vibe

Prout's Neck is comprised primarily of the beautiful weekend homes of Boston, Philadelphia, and New York contingents, so it feels quiet and insular, but in a good way. Children ride their bikes to the Yacht Club for Opti sailing lessons, and everyone knows each other at the sweet post office and the general store. Be sure to take one of the Inn's complimentary bikes for a cruise around the larger area of Scarborough and the lilac- and hydrangea-lined lanes.

What to Do Nearby

Don't miss the one-and-a-half-mile Cliff Walk that starts just steps away from the inn and takes you along the dramatic, craggy rocks that were painted by area resident, Winslow Homer. The walk culminates at the simple studio where he lived and painted most of his life and from which you can see the changing colors of the blue-green sea.

Nearby Portland is a happening town, and the Old Port District is worth a detour for the cute shops and galleries that line the cobblestone streets. The world-class Portland Museum of Art houses many of Homer's great works, and the historic Wadsworth-Longfellow House makes for a great afternoon as well.

Foodies will be in heaven at the Eventide Oyster Co., where exquisite lobster rolls with brown butter vinaigrette and a clam bake-for-one (steamers, mussels, lobster tail, salt pork, and hard-boiled egg served within seaweed) are pure bliss.

Good to Know

Make time for both the saltwater pool (restorative) and sea kayaking. In-room massages are another plus. The upscale sandwiches at the General Store just down Black Point Road make for a refined picnic.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

How to Get Here

Fly: Prout's Neck is a twenty-minute drive from the Portland International JetPort (PWM), which is served by Delta and JetBlue, among others.

Find It

Black Point Inn
510 Black Point Road
Prout's Neck, Scarborough, Maine 04074
+1-207-883-2500
info@blackpointinn.com

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Three-Day Weekends from Boston

Contributing editor Christina Ohly sends us packing for two peaceful weekend spots just a short drive from Boston. When can we leave?

Contributing editor Christina Ohly sends us packing for two peaceful weekend spots just a short drive from Boston. When can we leave?

BOSTON – Maybe, just maybe, you can put away the snow shovel. It's springtime in Boston, and everything's coming up roses. Take off on a Friday in the near future to explore and enjoy a quainter, quieter side of New England.


WOODSTOCK, VERMONT

If you're in the mood for: green mountains, picture-postcard covered bridges, and white clapboard church steeples.

Route to take: I-89 North for two-and-a-half hours.

Your agenda: Woodstock Inn — recently revamped to include LED-everything — has a serene spa and delicious farm-to-table cuisine in its casual Red Rooster restaurant. Head across the quaint village green outside your front door and make stops at the old-school Gillingham's general store and Yankee Bookshop before a lovely dinner-a-deux at The Prince and The Pauper, a town institution.

Avoid the Sunday blues: Do not skip town without a stop for black raspberry ice cream cones at the White Cottage Snack Bar. Open only in summer, this low-key spot is worth a serious, deep-fried detour.

WATCH HILL AND WEEKAPAUG, RHODE ISLAND

If you're in the mood for: a gorgeous beach escape with excellent cuisine to match.

Route to take: I-95 South for two hours.

Your agenda: Nest at the recently revamped Weekapaug Inn where sail boats, fishing gear, and a discreet, black-bottomed pool are all at your disposal. A meal of locally caught lobster, Matunuck oysters, and native beets is as memorable as the sunsets overlooking bucolic Quonochontaug Pond. Killer Swedish massages at Relais & Chateaux sister property The Ocean House are a Zen bonus.

Avoid the Sunday blues: One the way back to civilization, stock up on freshly baked chocolate chunk and molasses cookies at gourmet emporium The Cooked Goose.

Read more on Fathom: Summer with the Kids in Watch Hill.

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Pretty Little Secret: A Chic Bahamas Retreat

When contributing editor Christina Ohly discovers the Dunmore, she realizes that Harbour Island in the Bahamas is the destination that keeps on giving.

When contributing editor Christina Ohly discovers the Dunmore, she realizes that Harbour Island in the Bahamas is the destination that keeps on giving.

HARBOUR ISLAND, Bahamas – Harbour Island is the three-mile long haven of powder-fine pink sand and crystal clear turquoise waters that's remained relatively unchanged over the years. The Landing (which I wrote about on Fathom) serves as the epicenter for delicious meals and local gossip. The Rock House is the stylish spot for feasting poolside on locally caught lobster. Service around here is reliably slow, and that's actually part of the charm. And because the only way to get to the island is through a series of planes, cars, boats, and golf carts, only truly committed travelers end up here. Everyone else stays away. In short, the island is a little slice of heaven where you can truly escape the pace of modern life.

One thing has changed since my last visit in 2010: the revamping of The Dunmore, a beach club-cum-boutique hotel. Founded as a members-only club in 1963, it opened to the public in the 1980s and was renovated and reopened under new management in 2010. The stylish oasis is comprised of a laid-back communal sitting area, sixteen cheerful guest cottages designed by Nassau-based Amanda Lindroth, lovely dining and bar areas, and a glamorous pool deck that just screams, "Slim Aarons in Palm Beach."

As I walked around, captivated by the bougainvillea and night jasmine lining the lush walkways, I couldn't figure out why I had never heard of this special place. (All I do when I travel is look for cool things.)

It's because no one who visits wants to talk about it. They want to save it for themselves.

Being at Dunmore feels like being at someone's elegant island house party. The scene is a sea of white and aqua cabanas, billowing curtains, vintage rattan, and gently swirling ceiling fans. It's all best enjoyed with a fruity cocktail in hand.

The holiday crowd is a colorful mix of gay, straight, and Southern types drawn to the genteel pace. Children are tolerated at lunch, but this is most definitely a spot for discerning couples looking for peace and quiet.

I followed a friend's recommendation to have drinks at the Dunmore and was thereafter hooked for almost every meal. The patio dining area can be accessed from the beautiful beach below, and I walked over every day from my perch at the Pink Sands Resort (also covered on Fathom — clearly, we have a thing for Harbour Island) for a small escape into another era. Lunches are served in an airy outdoor setting. The menu is filled with exactly the kind of food I love to eat after a strenuous morning spent doing nothing at all: enormous salads with grilled grouper, local ceviches with citrus and ginger, delicate conch fritters, breadfruit fish tacos, and mountains of crispy French fries. (Why do fries taste better at the beach?)

Dinners are no less fantastic, set in an intimate dining room with vintage sailing photographs, decorative shells, and simple hanging lanterns. The food is slightly more refined in the evening but no less delicious. Sautéed red snapper with sweet plantain-bonito mash, roasted West Indian Cornish hen with Jamaican rice ‘n' peas, and other Caribbean-inflected dishes are all incredibly fresh and creative, as were house-made chocolate doughnuts and sorbets that capped the meals.

It's the details — the John Robshaw textiles, the Celerie Kemble wicker settees, the bright pink conch shells and sea fans that add touches of color — that make Dunmore so unique. If you're looking for an understated yet elegant beach escape with a bit of history and the kindest staff both thrown in for good measure, this retreat on Harbour Island's eastern shore is just about as good as it gets.

Next time around, I'm checking in.

FIND IT

The Dunmore
Dunmore Town, Harbour Island
Bahamas
+1-242-333-2200

MORE ON FATHOM

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In a League of Its Own: Rome's New Boutique Hotel

Rome can be a total onslaught of beauty and chaos. Fathom contributor Christina Ohly finds peace in the middle of it all at a design-driven hotel near Piazza del Popolo.

Rome can be a total onslaught of beauty and chaos. Fathom contributor Christina Ohly finds peace in the middle of it all at a design-driven hotel near Piazza del Popolo.

CHECKING IN

Overview

Set in a stunning 19th-century villa in the heart of Rome, Palazzo Dama is the newest (and possibly best) addition to the city's chic, boutique hotel scene. Located just steps from the bustling Piazza del Popolo, and in striking distance of the Tiber River, Spanish Steps, and gardens of Villa Borghese, the 30 rooms and suites are soothing, zen oases in the middle of the city. Designy touches courtesy of architect Antonio Girardi abound. In addition to beautifully appointed, light-filled spaces — many featuring crystal chandeliers mixed with mid-century sofas, crisp white linens, and state-of-the-art bathrooms — there is also a lovely back garden with a refreshing swimming pool. This extremely rare feature puts Palazzo Dama in a different league. As does the clubby L'Autre Dame bar, which is decorated with lithographs by Andy Warhol and Picasso and serves some of the meanest aperitivos in town.

Honey, I'm home.

Honey, I'm home.

Lush, cozy interiors in a junior suite.

Lush, cozy interiors in a junior suite.



What's New

The hotel just opened in January so everything is technically new, but there are several recent additions worth noting. While not a spa hotel per se, you'll find that every kind of massage and treatment is available in-room with just a quick phone call. Fitness facilities, an afterthought at most hotels, is nicely done with high-end, air-conditioned gym machines.

The members-only club downstairs looked positively sultry when I was there, but the real claim to fame has to be the petite swimming pool. I am still marveling at how the hoteliers got city approvals for this special feature.

Best of all: endless food and beverage options. This isn't like hotel dining, but rather like dining at an extremely aristocratic friend's house. Enjoy an Aperol spritz on the stunning rooftop terrace before a meal in L'Autre Dame downstairs.

What's on Site

Resting in the lush garden, nibbling club sandwiches served by the pool, and rubbing elbows with glamorous people in the lounge makes Palazzo Dama a sybarite's dream. In addition to the L'Autre Dame bar, the refined hotel restaurant of the same name serves beautiful pastas and wonderful fresh juices in a pristine white space. The basement gym, something of a rarity in central Rome, is impressive. The WiFi is fast and free, well-stocked minibars are free, too, and the most knowledgeable, kind front office/concierge team in town (Andrea and Gianmarco in particular) will cheerfully book you in at the the best restaurants, arrange car transfers, organize cooking classes, and reserve after-hours tours of nearby churches and museums.

Wish you were here.

Wish you were here.


The Food

Breakfast is served in the exquisite L'Autre Dame restaurant, which takes on a more relaxed atmosphere and soundtrack in the morning hours. It truly feels like eating in a laid-back, Michelin-star restaurant — and one with an expansive buffet that includes meats, cheeses, fruit and cereals, as well as an endless array of healthy juices and eggs made to order.

Lunch is outstanding as well — especially when served under an umbrella at one of the bistro tables by the pool. Simple sandwiches, burgers, and elaborate pastas are all possibilities. The kitchen will gladly make you whatever you'd like to eat, 24/7.

In the Room

Designer Antonio Girardi left his mark at the ultra-hip D.O.M. Hotel Roma (for the same owners). It has a similar feel: midcentury furnishings swathed in tasteful fabrics in hues of navy and sea green by Loro Piana. Other touches pay homage to the palazzo's original art nouveau finishes and marble mosaics, but the rooms also incorporate clean lines, Venini glass fixtures, and modern luxuries. Tasteful flat-screen TVs, well-stocked minibars, and vintage objets d'art in rooms overlooking the pool area all make this feel like a lived-in escape, a home away from home. Some of the street-facing rooms reportedly have more noise, but I didn't notice this on my tour — immense shutters are pulled at night so that visitors can't hear a thing.



Respite from the splendid chaos of Rome.

Respite from the splendid chaos of Rome.


Room with a View

My junior suite faced the pool and garden and I loved watching the afternoon crowd (a few tourists) morph into a chic cocktail set by 8 p.m. 

This Place Is Perfect For

The 12+ year-old set. Palazzo Dama doesn't have a "kid" feel; it is intimate, sexy, and spare. It would make an ideal stopover on the way to a honeymoon on the Amalfi Coast, and is also perfect for a long weekend away.

But Not So Perfect For

Anyone on a budget, young travelers, or families with multiple (3+) children. There are rooms and suites that join nicely for families with older children, but this is an old, historic building that isn't well-suited to crying babies or families needing several adjoining rooms. It's ideal for teenagers who need to be in proximity (by law, I suppose), but also want separate space.

Try out the unforgettable brunch and breakfast options at the restaurant and bar.

Try out the unforgettable brunch and breakfast options at the restaurant and bar.

Making it hard to leave.

Making it hard to leave.



CHECKING OUT

Neighborhood Vibe

The Piazza del Popolo area has everything a visitor could want: great restaurants, bars, shops, the Villa Borghese for long walks and great art, the Ara Pacis for culture, and some of the best straciatella gelato in Rome at Gelateria dei Gracchi.

What to Do Nearby

Take a short stroll from the hotel and you'll find national treasures, including the beautifully baroque Santa Maria in Montesanto church and the Museo dell'Ara Pacis, the Altar of the Augustan Peace that dates from 13 B.C. and is now housed in a sleek Richard Meier-designed space.

The area has wonderful shops including those of the larger luxury brands (the Hogan sneaker store here is the world's best; ask for things not on display) and niche Roman finds as well. One of my favorites, Artisanal Cornucopia on the sweet Via dell'Oca, is the ultimate Mediterranean-inspired concept shop and features beautiful, beachy bags by Istanbul-based designer Misela, statement-making/uber-cool jewelery by Roman designer Benedetta Bruzziches, and much more. Ask owner Elif Sallorenzo for tips — she is a font of information about not only the store's curated collections, but also about the best hidden bars and under-the-radar restaurants.

On the food front, you'll be spoiled for choice in this area of town. You can do no better than a dimly lit dinner at the hotel's L'Autre Dame. For something a bit less formal, try Da Bolognese or Rosati (Piazza del Popolo, 5a), both frequented by well-heeled tourists — but I love them anyway for solid pastas and waiters in crisp, white jackets. Best of all, however, might be drinks at the elegant Hotel Locarno. Be sure to ask for seating in the magical garden. A drink or a light lunch in the Hotel de Russie garden just around the corner runs a very close second.

Good to Know

The hotel is just nine miles from Rome's Ciampino Airport and it was, I swear, the most scenic ride I've ever had to an airport. The trip takes you over cobblestone streets, under viaducts, and through lush neighborhoods. I felt like Hadrian.

Dressed to the nines.

Dressed to the nines.

Suite view of Roman architecture and blue skies.

Suite view of Roman architecture and blue skies.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

How to Get There

Rome Fiumicino Airport is 45 minutes from the hotel and is served by American Airlines, Delta, and Alitalia. In-country flights also depart from this airport, and many to the rest of Europe (British Airways) as well.

BOOK IT

Rates start from $348. Click here for reservations.

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Where to Go from NYC: Haute Hippie Rhinebeck

One of the best escapes 100 miles from midtown Manhattan is the village of Rhinebeck, New York — a "haute hippie" sort of place situated near the Hudson River. The town features an eclectic mix of architecture, sustainable dining, and residents (and weekenders) from all walks of life. It's a great place year-round, but summer features some of the best farmers' markets, antiques shows, and country fairs you'll find anywhere. 



HOW TO GET THERE

Amtrak runs from Penn Station to Rhinecliff-Kingston in Rhinebeck, and you can call for cabs to get around. But the best move is getting your hands on a steering wheel and driving the scenic Taconic Parkway.

WHERE TO STAY

You're not going to find a lot of five-star establishments in Rhinebeck, and that's what keeps the area feeling small and special. Get a room at the centrally located Beekman Arms (the oldest inn in America, by the way) where you'll be in striking distance of morning coffee and croissants from Bread Alone, newspapers galore, cute shops full of antiques, and Stickles, a good ol' five-and-dime store that kids adore. If you're looking for a more boutique feel, head north to Tivoli, where the Madalin Hotel has eleven newly renovated rooms by the designers of NYC's Chelsea Hotel. Old-school touches (nice innkeeper, no key cards) mix with new-school style (flat screens, WiFi), not to mention Madalin's Table, a tavern and dining room with awesome grass-fed beef burgers, seared cod, grilled vegetable pizzas, and kid's pastas du jour. There's also a wide porch where you can savor a little Sauvignon blanc and watch the world pass — very slowly — by.

WHERE TO EAT

Food (in every form) is the biggest game in town. Balance a high-end dinner at Le Petit Bistro with killer ice cream cones from Del's Dairy Creme (7775 Albany Post Road) where $2 still buys an enormous swirl of soft-serve goodness. Everything in town is kid-friendly, but the highlight for all ages is Gigi's Trattoria, where a bustling outdoor patio, homemade butternut squash gnocchi, and "skizzas" (thin-crust pizzas in unique combinations such as porchetta with fennel salami, red onion, tomato, and mozzarella) make for a mellow evening.

More Italian goodness happens at Mercato Osteria & Enoteca in nearby Red Hook. There's a vaguely Tuscan ambiance and a blackboard of the day's farm fresh specials. Meals are lovingly prepared by seventh-generation pasta man Francesco Buitoni, who incorporates wild leeks and sweet sausage from nearby Northwind Farms with spectacularly fresh fish and risottos (wild mushroom, smoked salmon, asparagus). Save room for the flourless chocolate cake.

Other great foodie bets in the vicinity: The Local, chef Wes Dier's latest "eclectic New American" addition to the community (high marks for the phyllo-wrapped Coach Farm goat cheese with Sky Farm lettuces, fig jam, onions, and crostini); Osaka, for steaming steak terikayi dinners that will delight kids; and Garden Street Cafe at Rhinebeck Health Foods (24 Garden Street), for a picnic of "Avocado Supreme" sandwiches and a serious vegan vibe.

WHAT TO DO

Bard College's SummerScape series offers a fantastic mix of opera, dance, theater, and film. Kids will love the sometimes freaky acts (acrobats, aerialists) in the glittering Spiegel Tent.

Spend a Saturday or Sunday checking out the bi-planes at the Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome (June through October 16th). Peep automobiles and motorcycles from the golden "barnstorming" era of aviation, and watch an air show of sky-high twists and turns — complete with flying aces and billowing neck scarves. After watching planes swoop, you'll want to head to Wilderstein, an immense Queen Anne style country house-turned-museum surrounded by walking trails. If possible, plan your trip around the Dutchess County Fair, an extravaganza of fried dough and rides that happens in late August. Little kids can go nuts with bumper cars and livestock competitions, strolling performers and live bands.

WHERE TO SHOP

There are a lot of stylish ex-city folk around, and Rhinebeck doesn't disappoint in the retail arena. No Sugar has sweet separates for little kiddies from brands like 3 Pommes and 7AM, as well as unique pieces for grown-ups. For a carefully edited selection of things for the home visit Hammertown (conveniently located next door to Gigi's Trattoria). Peruse reading material and music at Oblong Books, a classic book shop hub with meaningful staff picks and readings by local authors. Paper Trail stocks cards and gifts by small letterpress printers from across the country. There will be no shortage of souvenirs.

FOR YOUR BEDSIDE TABLE


Edible Hudson
Hudson Valley Magazine

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The World's Most Romantic Hotels: The Caribbean

All Great Romances start with setting and end with action. Throw in a beach and let the sparks fly.

Jump to: Antigua | Bahamas | Cuba | Jamaica | St. Barts | St. Lucia | St. Vincent and the Grenadines | Turks and Caicos

ANTIGUA

Carlisle Bay
Where:
 St. Mary's, Antigua
What's to Love:
 There is a European vibe here that makes it feel far away. Very good spa, beach barbecues, and minimalist, tasteful rooms add to the overall Zen aesthetic. For true romance, book dinner on the jetty — just the two of you, delicious tuna tartare, and a lot of votive candles.

Curtain Bluff Resort
Where:
 Curtain Bluff, Antigua
What's to Love: It isn't immediately apparent, but this place will grow on you in a huge way. There are limitless activities, tennis, squash, a killer spa with masseuses from the Aman Resorts. There are no in-room TVs and it's slightly hokey — communal cocktail parties, everything is included — but somehow it all really works. The snorkeling excursions are the best anywhere. Just you and two personal guides who know every ray, fish, and coral in the sea. No need to pre-book, just show up at the dock.

Jumby Bay
Where: Jumby Bay Island, Antigua
What's to Love: It's. A. Private. Island. In. The. Caribbean. Just you and 300 car-free acres off the Antigua coast on an island discovered by Christopher Columbus. Newly renovated in post-Colonial style. Water is everywhere. The treatment to get at Sense, A Rosewood Spa, is the one where you're in the hammock and the therapist fixes everything.

BAHAMAS

The Dunmore
Where: Harbour Island, Bahamas
What's to Love: It's in the details, the textiles, the wicker settees, the glamorous pool deck that screams, "Slim Aarons in Palm Beach." Bougainvillea and night jasmine line the lush walkways leading to the sixteen cheerful guest cottages. The patio dining area can be accessed from the beach below. If you don't live here, at least go for a meal.
Read More on Fathom: Pretty Little Secret: A Chic Bahamas Retreat

The Landing
Where: Harbour Island
What's to Love: I found this house very charming and romantic. There wasn't a particular reason, but the whole experience made my weekend unique. The pink-sand beach, the vintage hotel bar, the music they were playing, the rain at night, the book I was reading, the horseback riding on the beach. It was all very special.



Laid-back luxe. Photo courtesy of The Other Side.

Laid-back luxe. Photo courtesy of The Other Side.


The Other Side
Where: Eleuthera, Bahamas
What's to Love: A romantic compound of exquisite tented structures (think Out of Africa meets Mustique), this is the place to truly disconnect from the outside world. Accessed by private launch, the property has a chic house party vibe; guests wander in and out of the great house for simple meals of grilled fish before retiring into the stunning pool that juts out over the turquoise bay, with views of Harbour Island beyond. Proprietors Ben Simmons and Charlie Phelan have thought of every understated detail so the food is delicious, the honor bar well-stocked, and morning yoga is available for those who don't sleep in. Low-key luxury at its very finest.

CUBA

Casa Vitrales
Where: Old Havana
What's to Love: I love, love, love this boutique guesthouse in Old Havana where Carla and I spent six days this Christmas. The six-room guesthouse is charming and well-located, and you are looked after like royalty.

DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

Havana meets Palm Beach. Photo courtesy of Playa Grande Beach Club.

Havana meets Palm Beach. Photo courtesy of Playa Grande Beach Club.


Playa Grande Beach Club
Playa Grande, Dominican Republic
What's to Love: Once you arrive you will not sign a single check, you will not see a single plastic lounge chair, you will not wear your shoes again. You will, however, be immersed in an enchanted beach hotel that is half Old Havana, half Palm Beach, all laid-back luxury. What to bring: your book, sundress, and lover. What not to bring: your iPad. Put that shit down.

JAMAICA

GoldenEye Hotel and Resort
Where: Oracabessa Bay, Jamaica
What's to Love: Originally the private retreat of Ian Fleming, it's where he wrote all his James Bond novels. A lush and fragrant jungle setting, you'd have to be a rock not to feel the romance of this sexy place. Prepare for midnight swims in the calm, warm lagoon. Pack a white bikini for full effect.

Jakes
Where: Treasure Beach, Jamaica
What's to love: Each Gaudi-inspired tiny bungalow is crazy in a different way, but most open directly onto the water. Take a boat out to the lunch shack, raised above a beautiful ocean sandbar, that only serves lunch until the fresh fish runs out and the chef heads home in his skiff. The glass bottle bottoms set into the walls of the outdoor shower reflect the light off the water for a magical effect. And once a year, 5,000 Jamaicans converge here for the most fabulous literary festival in the world. Reggae all night.

Round Hill
Where: Montego Bay, Jamaica
What's to Love: A gorgeous estate with incredible gardens, it's like a lush location from a 1960s James Bond film come to life. There are not one, but two bars along the beach. Past guests have included JFK and Jackie on honeymoon and the Babe Paley set.

The Caves
Where: Negril, Jamaica
What's to Love: Another of Chris Blackwell's pretty incredible Island Outpost chain. Chic whitewashed rooms, great food, even better service, and incredible views Don't be surprised if you jump off the cliff. Everyone does.

ST. BARTS

Hotel Isle de France
Where: Flamands
What's to Love: So many great things about it, not least of which is its idyllic location on the beach, one of the best on the island. Nearby Colombier Beach is a hike or a boat ride away, and the hotel will pack you a picnic lunch.

Le Sereno
Where: St. Barts
What's to Love: Le Sereno attracts the loveliest of rich bohemians and filters out the island's tres gauche (think: Nikki Beach). But none of that really matters because you're too busy kissing your dreamy lover, tossing off your Missoni bikini top, and melting into the latest French Vogue to notice anything but your nonstop, pinch-me-now, inner-bliss at this gorgeous paradise of a hotel. Ask the hotel to arrange a motorbike (if you have any biking skills whatsoever) and use it. Grab baguettes and fromage at the local grocer and discover St. Bart's ultra beautiful beaches.

Le Toiny
Where: Anse de Toiny
What's to Love: The bungalows are one-bedroom houses with spectacular views of ocean, mountains, and rugged terrain — everything but other buildings or people. Rooms have a palatial bath and a private pool surrounded by a terrace large enough to accommodate couples massage tables. It's not cheap, but summer rates are half what Larry Ellison pays in January.

ST. LUCIA

Ladera Resort
Where: St. Lucia
What's to Love: None of the rooms have a fourth wall, so you wake up every morning with the sun rising over the Piton Mountains. Get a room with a plunge pool so you never have to leave.

Sugar Beach
Where:
 St Lucia
What's to Love: The low-key, high-budget combination of intimate villas in an informal setting. A recent $100 million+ redo has resulted in minimalist, tasteful cottages with plunge pools and features both modern (WiFi, flat-screen TVs) and low-tech (ceiling fans and atmospheric mosquito net canopies). It's not easy to get to St. Lucia is a haul, and Sugar Beach whisks guests from the airport straight to their suites — no check-in or paperwork necessary — where cold drinks, a butler await, unpacking, and laudry services await.
Read more on Fathom: Paradise Found in Sugar Beach, St. Lucia


Photo courtesy of Sugar Beach.

Photo courtesy of Sugar Beach.


ST. VINCENT AND THE GRENADINES

Cotton House
Where:
 Mustique, The Grenadines
What's to Love: This place is tough to get to, so it keeps other people away. Rooms are utterly simple — billowing linens and soothing, neutral tones — with tasteful plunge pools so you never really have to leave your suite. Dinner is freshly caught lobster on the veranda; there's a weekly island cocktail party in case you feel like socializing. Bring lots of sunscreen. The rays are seriously strong here.

Firefly Mustique
Where: Mustique, The Grenadines
What's to Love: Location, location, location. This hard to access island is a couple's paradise with crystalline waters, white sand beaches, and killer cocktails. Add to that chic simple rooms with views of spectacular sunsets, and Firefly is about as close to nirvana as it gets.
Good to Know: Book a table on the cliff-hanging terrace for fresh, imaginatively prepared seafood. Local barracuda, Caribbean crab backs, and delicious curries are all wonderful. Star sightings often include the likes of Mick Jagger and the odd royal, which adds to the overall mystique of this magical place.

Petit Saint Vincent
Where: Petit St. Vincent, The Grenadines
What's to love: The 115-acre private island was developed in the 1960s, with 22 free-standing Blue Bitch (that's really the name) beach chic stone cottages. It has always attracted a moneyed, famous, and infamous crowd who seek a tropical hideaway where they can check in and be left alone. Ask for #117, the most secluded cottage at the southernmost tip of the island, for its private beach and (perhaps) a clothing-optional frolic-filled stay. (Allegedly, it's a favorite of Daniel Craig.) If you're feeling antsy, charter Beauty, the property's wooden sloop, to sail to Tobago Cays for snorkeling and turtle-watching or a jaunt to Union Island for lunch.

TURKS AND CAICOS

Amanyara
Where:
 Providenciales, Turks and Caicos
What's to Love: Gorgeous private oceanfront cabins with sexy decor, private pools, and outdoor showers. It's a cool, low-key celeb scene. And at Amanyara, the answer is always yes.

COMO Parrot Cay
Where: Providenciales, Turks and Caicos
What's To Love: Timeless colonial vibes on your own private island with fresh, healthy, gourmet food. The holistic COMO Shambhala Spa is on-site, and service and attention to detail are impeccable. Sitting by the powdery beach is out of the Corona commercial; the water is that clear. Great scuba diving and private partner yoga on the beach at sunset. Bring home hard-to-find COMO products and get your chakras in check.

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE

The World's Most Romantic Hotels

Contributors: Ingrid Bernstein, Malika Dalamal, Kate Donnelly, Christina Ohly Evans, Nancy Hunt, Kerry Kane, Steven Learner, Jonathan Mir, Dana Hazels Seith, Alyssa Shelasky, Margaret Spencer, Rima Suqi, Terese Svoboda, Rett Wallace, Sheri Warshaw.

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The World's Most Romantic Hotels: The Northeastern United States

Honeymoons, anniversaries, engagements, make-ups — there are plenty of reasons to be amorous. Find love in all the right places with this list of romantic destinations in the northeast United States.

Jump to: Connecticut | Maine | Massachusetts | New York | Rhode Island | Vermont | Washington, D.C. | Canada

CONNECTICUT

The Mayflower Grace
Washington, Connecticut
What's to Love: Set on 50-plus unspoiled acres in rolling Litchfield Hills, this is the spot to snowshoe, read by the fire, and languish in the hotel's gleaming, serene spa.
Good to Know: Don't miss a meal at their soothing restaurant, which serves hyper-local everything, like upscale cinnamon doughnuts with housemade cinnamon ice cream.
Read more on Fathom: The Hotel Is Great, But You Should See the Spa


Photo courtesy of Mayflower Inn and Spa.

Photo courtesy of Mayflower Inn and Spa.


MAINE

White Barn Inn
Kennebunk Beach, Maine
What's to Love: : Located in coastal Maine, which is by definition wicked far, the hotel is part of the luxurious yet laid back Relais & Chateaux hotel group. No detail is overlooked, from the names of the private cottages (such as Gull and Loon) to the fireplaces, sumptuous linens, and every imaginable amenity.
Good to Know: Foodies pilgrimage here for chef Jonathan Cartwright's inventive takes on New England cuisine served in a reimagined barn setting, complete with flattering candlelight and impeccable (read: unobtrusive) service. This is one of the most romantic meals you'll likely ever share. And local lobster on fettucine is a must.

MASSACHUSETTS

Blantyre
Lenox
What's to Love: One of a dozen Gilded Age "cottages" left in the Berkshires, the country resort and estate just outside cute-as-can-be Lenox is now under new ownership, but the important things haven't changed. Namely, the beautiful Tudor House is still perfectly appointed, with crystal carafes set out for wine in the lounge, elaborate chandeliers, overstuffed sofas, huge and beautiful rooms with four-poster beds and fireplaces, and an excellent restaurant.
Good to Know: Make sure to meet the in-house historian, David Pupo, who tells great stories about former owners (including filmmaker D.W. Griffith) and the antics the house has seen. 
Read More on Fathom: The Gilded Age Fantasy Is Alive and Thriving at Blantyre

Old Inn on the Green
New Marlborough
What's to Love: The pre-Revolutionary restaurant and candlelit inn was a popular stagecoach stop in 1760. The antique decor is streamlined and sophisticated. And incredibly cozy.
Good to Know: There are several intimate dining room nooks with roaring fires and exceptional (local, seasonal) tasting menus.

Red Lion Inn
Stockbridge
What's to Love: The old-fashioned birdcage elevator, a wraparound porch, a tavern that serves hearty stews, and the Lions Den for pints.
Good to Know: Bonus charm: It opened in 1773 as a stagecoach stop and has been welcoming guests ever since.

Wheatleigh Hotel
Lenox
What's to Love: Very romantic year-round, but especially during the winter months when you can make the most of your in-room fireplace. The gardens were designed by Frederick Olmstead, and the restaurant is incredible.
Good to Know: Tanglewood, the summer home of the Boston Symphony Orchestra, is just down the road. Pack and a picnic and enjoy sonatas under the stars.
Read More on Fathom: See our Berkshires Itinerary for tips on what to do, eat, and see.

NEW YORK

Buttermilk Falls
Milton
What's to Love: Low key but high-end and cool, with a fabulous spa, nice food, and lots private room options. The Pony Pad is a little house with a fireplace.
Good to Know: Take a hike around Minnewaska State Park for views of the Shawgagunk Mountain Ridge and Lake Minnewaska at any time of year (don't forget a thermos of hot chocolate in winter). Revive après-hike at The Village Tearoom.
Read More on Fathom: See our Hudson Valley Itinerary for tips on what to do, eat, and see.

Crosby Street Hotel
New York
What's to Love: The design-driven hotel mixes eclectic art, bold contemporary interiors, and a plethora of daring colors and fabrics that, in a rare occurrence, doesn't detract from its homely charm.
Good to Know: That this is all in the middle of busy SoHo makes it even more charming. The neighborhood is all quiet cobbled streets, artisan shops, street stalls, hidden bars, and amazing eateries that span from high-end restaurants to hole-in-the-wall burger joints. It's definitely a place you can lose yourself.

The Lowell
New York
What's to Love: Evoking everything that's wonderful about old-school, discreet uptown, the intimate boutique hotel feels so timeless that it would be so easy to ignore Central Park and Museum Mile (mere steps away) and lose yourself inside.
Good to Know: Make sure to have a meal there, even though there are many options within a short walk, to make it an extra sumptuous experience. Start with cocktails at Jacques Bar, followed by a Mediterranean-infused French meal at Majorelle. Settle for a nightcap in the deep sofas in the Club Room, then wander upstairs, where the fireplace is roaring at the foot of your bed. Wake up, have room service on the terrace, and do the whole thing all over again.

Glenmere Mansion
Chester
What's to Love: All the Gilded Age trappings needed for a night of romance — grand cortile, marble staircase, garden terraces, and formal gardens for indiscreet canoodling.
Good to Know: All that European elegance (and a full-service spa), just 50 miles from Manhattan.


Photo courtesy of Glenmere Mansion.

Photo courtesy of Glenmere Mansion.


Ham House
Tivoli
What's to Love: Gorgeous restored mansion on a hill in the perfectly picturesque upstate hamlet of Tivoli. The bridal suite has views of the Hudson River and the Catskill Mountains, and the extensive vintage decor was done by a former antiques dealer.
Good to Know: Feels like staying in a palace, and you can take a hike right out your door. Saul Bellow wrote Herzog and Henderson the Rain King while living here. Also, this is a small operation. If the website isn't working, you can always call them:  +1-845-757-3424
Read More on Fathom:
 See our Hudson Valley Itinerary and Catskills Itinerary for tips on what to do, eat, and see.

Inn at Windmill Lane
Amagansett, New York
What's to Love: Classically modern cottages and suites with ridiculously lavish amenities: Duxiana beds, private exercise rooms, rain showers, preferred tee times at Montauk Downs Golf Club.
Good to Know: Prices go way down off-season, and it's very quiet and cozy.

Kayak Camping
Saranac Lake
What's to Love: Not a hotel but rather an experience. Each of the dozens of tiny islands in the Saranac lake chain has individual campsites you can rent. Like having your own private island for $15. The only way to get to the islands is by boat, so you rent a kayak to get there.
Good to Know: Don't forget firewood, a cozy tent, lots of wine, and great food. Make a weekend of it. Beyond blissful, and super cheap.

Lafayette House
New York City
What's to Love: A narrow brocade-and-chandelier-filled boarding house conjures fantasties of urban living circa 1880. The place feels like a find — there is no signage, front desk, or hotel lobby.
Good to Know: Rooms vary in size and style. Ground floor suites share a backyard patio.
Read More on Fathom: See our NYC Guide for restaurants, sites, shopping, and nightlife ideas, as well as our list of Most Romantic Restaurants in NYC.

Monteverde at Oldstone Manor
Cortlandt Manor
What's to Love: Two-room inn and new seven-room garden house with gorgeous views of the Hudson River Valley, which doesn't have as many nice hotel options as it should. Great on-site spa and restaurant.
Good to Know: It's the best place to stay when you're making a trip out of dinner at Blue Hill at Stone Barns, a short drive away.

The Pierre
New York City
What's to Love: Old-world glamour and service and location, location, location. All that New York has to offer is steps away and the hotel's perch on Central Park offers some of the best views in the city.
Good to Know: The high tea is delightful, and the hotel's complimentary BMW makes quick junkets to the theater or a downtown restaurant effortless.
Read More on Fathom: Go Big and Opulent at This Old-World Central Park Hotel

The NoMad Hotel
New York City
What's to Love: The Beaux Arts show-stopper designed by Jacques Garcia has a cozy library, swanky drinking dens, and several dining alcoves — meaning there's plenty of places to show off your hot date. The dining atrium is run by the exceptional team from Eleven Madison Park.
Good to Know: Clawfoot bathtubs, Sferra bathrobes, and antique writing desks channel romantic notions of Paris.


Photo courtesy of NoMad Hotel.

Photo courtesy of NoMad Hotel.


RHODE ISLAND

The Chanler
Newport
What's to Love: Imagine Americana wallpapered in luxury and plastered in WASP. The Chanler is the only hotel on Newport's breathtaking, crazy romantic Cliff Walk. It's surrounded by rugged nature, endless ocean, and OMFG mansions — and has an exquisite food program has all the fancy (and wannabe fancy) New Englanders aflutter.
Good to Know: Every room has a jacuzzi which can be filled with rose petals upon request. Yes, really. And with ongoing series like "Scotch & Cigars" and "More Bubbles," it seems that every hour is cocktail o'clock. Here's to that.

The Ocean House
Watch Hill
What's to Love: Gorgeous hotel overlooking the beach and the quaint, picturesque seaside village. Ideal for summertime seaside fun and indulging in pure Americana at its baronial best.
Good to Know: The couple's room at the spa has a private hydro-soaking tub and deluge shower.
Read More on Fathom: A Few Days In: Watch Hill

The Weekapaug Inn
Weekapaug, Rhode Island
What's to Love: The old-school yet updated Relais & Chateaux property sits on scenic Weekapaug Pond and offers a respite from reality: no TVs (unless requested), sumptuous rooms, low-tech games (remember shuffleboard?), as well as sailboats for sunset cruises. Excellent cuisine including local lobster and organic vegetables of sizes/colors you've never seen before.
Good to Know: Guests can use the fantastic facilities at the nearby Ocean House, including the spa, squash courts, and dinner on the porch overlooking the Atlantic.


Photo by Geri Abdoo / Courtesy of Weekapaug Inn.

Photo by Geri Abdoo / Courtesy of Weekapaug Inn.


VERMONT

The Pitcher Inn
Warren
What's to Love: Only eleven rooms, each with its own design theme and decor. Of special note, Mountain and Ski rooms. The restaurant is outstanding, and the downstairs bar/game lounge is great, especially after a day on the slopes.
Good to Know: The country store across the street is just as postcard-perfect — and serves great sandwiches. You're only a short drive from the Sugarbush and Mad River Glen ski areas. American Flatbread, a very special pizza restaurant found in a barn, is also nearby — and an absolute must.

Twin Farms
Barnard
What's to Love: Tastefully appointed everything, smack in the middle of nowhere. Super private, homey, and, even when full, feels like you have the place to yourself. Individual cottages are decorated with the owner's incredible art collection. Hushed, darkened dining room is set up so that all parties face the fireplace and kitchen sticks to local goods even in the depths of winter. Meals are made to order according to a pre-arrival food questionnaire; you never see a menu.
Good to Know: Go here instead of the nearby ski resorts: There are a half dozen downhill trails on the property and the most fun thing ever is that they cart you around the mountain on snowmobiles. Hit the furo (Japanese soaking tub) on a cold snowy night — a car service brings you to and from the tiny shack which is hidden in the woods.

WASHINGTON, D.C.

Hotel Tabard Inn
Washington, D.C.
What's to Love: There's little that's truly romantic in the nation's capital. But this quirky inn has so much Americana charm, it almost makes up for the lack everywhere else.
Good to Know: Every room is different and some have shared baths. Room 26 has a grand piano, but book ahead because it's often used for events.

CANADA

Note: Sorry, Canada. We don't have a guide for you yet. But we're working on it!

Clayoquat Wilderness Resort
Tofino, Canada
What's to Love: At the stunning Vancouver Island eco-safari, they craft bespoke expeditions in the remote wilderness of British Columbia, like mountain river kayaking, hot spring hiking, and bear and whale watching, to name a few. When you're in the temperate rainforests of Pacific Rim National Park, you and boo are snug between the covers in one of twenty luxury canvas tents furnished with old-world rugs, antiques, and heirloom china.

Fogo Island Inn
Newfoundland and Labrador
What's to Love: The island is remote and rugged, but the retreat is a hyper-modern salt box with solar panels and steel stilts that rise up from craggy mores and Arctic Ocean ice floats. Every textile and piece of furniture is made locally by hand; the kitchen scours the island for every meal. The characters at the bar (woodworkers, fishermen, foragers) are priceless.
Good to Know: Beyond the rooftop sauna and your personal wood-burning stove, you can get cozy on a skiff as it heads out to the magical offshore Little Fogo Islets.


Photo by Alex Fradkin / Courtesy of Fogo Island Inn.

Photo by Alex Fradkin / Courtesy of Fogo Island Inn.


BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE

The World's Most Romantic Hotels

Contributors: Becca Bergman Bull, Scott Conant, Eric Demby, Kate Donnelly, Christina Ohly Evans, Stephanie March, Erin Murray, Alyssa Shelasky, Beth Silverman, Lockhart Steele, Angela Tribelli, Sheri Warshaw.

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Travel Guest User Travel Guest User

The World's Most Romantic Hotels: Africa

Burning sands, epic sunsets, majestic mountain slopes — there are a million ways to fall in love with Africa. Start with this list of romantic hotel destinations.

Jump to: Botswana | Congo | Egypt | Kenya | Morocco | Mozambique | South Africa | Tanzania | Tunisia | Uganda | Zambia | Zanzibar

BOTSWANA

Jack's Camp
Makgadikgadi Plains, Kalahari Desert
What's to Love: An over-the-top 1940s-style safari camp set in a palm grove. Explore archeological sites on quad bikes, then regroup at the lavish tea tent. It's pricey. But the service details are incredibly special (i.e.: tours are led by a group of passionate academics, anthropologists, and bushmen).

Jao Camp
Okavango Delta
What's to Love: A true camp experience — al fresco showers, outdoor beds for afternoon naps, dining under the stars — upgraded with massages, plunge pools, and refreshing Stellenbosch between game drives. It's best to visit in March or early spring for the best weather and Big Game sightings.

REPUBLIC OF CONGO

Odzala Camps
Odzala-Kokoua, Republic of Congo
What's to love: Channel your inner primate in the largely unexplored Odzala-Kokoua rainforest in the Congo. Choose between two lodges — Lango on the edge of the savanna or Ngaga deep in the Marantaceae forest. The treetop suites at Ngaga Camp are raised about ten feet above the ground, giving you the same perspective as the 20,000 resident gorillas at your doorstep.

EGYPT

The Oberoi Sahl Hasheesh
Red Sea Coast
What's to Love: Spacious and secluded suites have private heated swimming pools, walled gardens, and 48 acres of white sand beach. Do not miss scuba diving in the Gulf of Aqaba.

KENYA

Giraffe Manor
Nairobi, Kenya
What's to Love: Staying at the ten-suite safari estate is like stepping into an old Colonial fairy tale, where resident Rothschild giraffes reach through windows and rouse you with loving licks at sunrise and join you for supper at sunset.

Hippo Point
Great Rift Valley, Kenya
What's to Love: You're the king of the jungle in a wildlife conservancy, gazing down on hungry hippos, grazing zebras, and howling hyenas from your 120-feet high perch at the top of Dodo's Tower. Invite the couples you love to swing with: The beautiful, European-antique filled suite can accommodate three couples.

Olarro
Maasai Mara
What's to Love: It's exclusive and intimate. Take a scenic helicopter flight into the Maasai Mara at dawn from the hotel's private helipad. After an exhilarating flight into the reserve, take the rare opportunity to float over the million-strong wildebeest and zebra migration in a hot air balloon, followed by breakfast in a remote part of the Maasai Mara.

Peponi Hotel
Lamu, Kenya
What's to Love: Checking in feels like stepping into a different century. Lost colonial Casablanca vibe, low-key Swahili culture, and beautiful beaches all come without posh jet-set pretension in this ancient Muslim enclave on the Kenyan coast.

Sanctuary Olonana
Maasai Mara
What's to Love: The boutique tented camp overlooks the flowing Mara River (perfect for hippo watching). There's a wonderful spa and pool to refresh after game tracking. Hot water bottles are placed in your four-poster bed at night along with bedtime stories. Book tent 14 or 15 for ultra luxury. Request Joseph as a guide (though all are amazing). Have a sun-downer on the escarpment where the movie Out of Africa was filmed. Get married amongst the Maasai. Plant a tree on the property and leave something behind to grow.

MOROCCO

Beldi Country Club
Marrakech
What's to Love: Beautifully decorated private villas with fireplaces and outdoor bathtubs in your own private garden. This is a great place for romance but an awful place for business. There is no internet in the rooms.
Read More on Fathom: The Garden of Eden Is in Marrakech

Kasbah Tamadot
Atlas Mountains, Morocco
What's to Love: 27 suites and nine luxurious Berber-style tents filled with Moroccan antiques in the mountains an hour outside Marrakech. This is Sir Richard Branson's retreat, the one he discovered while ballooning in the area. Try to tear yourself away from your room to explore the Atlas Mountains on one of their mules and to visit nearby village Asni for the weekly Saturday market.

L'Heure Bleue Palais
Essaouira
What's to Love: An ultimate one-time romantic getaway. Many rooms have open moucharabieh woodwork onto the courtyard, ask for a room on the top floor. The rooftop pool overlooks the smashing sea. Plenty of private corners in which to snuggle. The best table in town is in the hotel restaurant, ask to be seated in front of the fireplace.
Read More on Fathom: A Naughty Weekend in Essaouira

La Mamounia
Marrakech
What's to Love: A gorgeous 2009 renovation caters to your design fetish. You'll find Moorish and Deco glamour, lush gardens, a marble mosaic hammam, and gleaming Jaguars in the driveway. The Baldaquin Suite is particularly stunning. Two of their four restaurants are led by Michelin-star chefs.
Read More on Fathom: A Berber Jewel Box, and I Have the Keys

Madada Mogador
Essaouira
What's to Love: A French-owned hotel with ocean views and balconies that back up to the city's ancient sea walls. Cross your fingers for a power outage, because the fishing village is even lovelier by candlelight. For the breeziest breakfast, order from the roof terrace.

Riad El Fenn
Marrakech
What's to Love: Vanessa Branson's (yes, one of those Bransons) charming contemporary boutique hotel has three courtyards, swimming pools, mint tea and cake every afternoon, and an excellent hammam near bustling Djemaa el-Fna square. Riad Vanessa is the especially lovely and private suite to book. If you fall for the brightly striped Turkish cotton towels by the pool, you can pick some up at Atelier Moro (114 Place de Mouassine; +11-212-24-39-16-78), along with other non-touristy souvenirs.


Royal-Mansour-Lobby-marrakech.jpg

Photo courtesy of Royal Mansour.

Royal Mansour
Marrakech
What's to Love: The scent of jasmine wafts through the air at the beautiful oasis within the historic city walls. Nest in your very own riad, complete with intricate plasterwork, carvings, and sumptuous silk embroideries. Relax on personal, colonnaded patios, swim in plunge pools, and marvel at the exotic Andalucian and Moorish elements within the compound. As it is owned by the royal family, service at the Royal Mansour is totally next level: You'll never see a bellhop, and fresh mint will miraculously appear before you knew you even wanted any.
Read more on Fathom: Girls Gone Wild in Marrakech

Villa Maroc
Essaouira
What's to Love: Imagine the Chateau Marmont relocated to a small medieval Moroccan town with camels wandering the beach and sea spray sweetening the evening breeze. The nearby dock is the essential destination for al fresco lunches.

An Arabian Nights fantasy. Photo courtesy of La Sultana.

An Arabian Nights fantasy. Photo courtesy of La Sultana.


La Sultana Marrakech
Marrakech, Morocco
What's to Love: If Marrakech is famous for its many charming riads, La Sultana dazzles the senses by offering several differently themed riads in one. The interconnecting buildings feel like an elaborate warren where no detail is too ornate or too fantastical. Yes, you have just stepped into the pages of 1,001 Arabian Nights. Just don't forget to spend at least one of them having dinner on the rooftop and another in the steamy hammam. If you want add even more to love, spend a few days at its beachfront sister property, La Sultana Oualidia.



Lunch for two in the oasis. Photo courtesy of Dar Ahlam.

Lunch for two in the oasis. Photo courtesy of Dar Ahlam.


Dar Ahlam
Skoura, Morocco
What's to Love: All the world’s a play at this magical North African Kasbah, French hotelier Thierry Teyssier’s fever dream of an escape. Twenty eight guests are tended to by a staff of over 100 who service every wish and make each day a different, theatrical, unexpected experience. Stargazing in a desert oasis, dining in a secret garden, taking a bath next to the fireplace, walking the Berber trails — whatever you fantasize can be done, and it will be special and sumptuous and laid-back in that cool French-Moroccan way. For a few days, you’ll feel like the only people who exist in the world.

MOZAMBIQUE

Azura
Benguerra Island
What's to Love: The hotel consists of 16 private villas on a semi-private island accessible only by helicopter. Most of them have their own infinity pool. All of them come with two full-time butlers who make it their job to surprise you throughout the day. You can have lunch served on a desert island off-shore one day and in an abandoned old fishing boat another day. The snorkeling nearby is world-class. The accommodations are perfect and the service is warm. Splurge for a luxury villa with private pool, and be sure to take advantage of the exceptionally well curated activities offered

Vamizi Island
Quirimbas
What's to Love: Palatial villas, white sand beaches, crystal clear water, just-caught seafood. You are completely disconnected from the world in the best possible sense.
The diving — in some still uncharted reefs — is incredible.

SOUTH AFRICA


The owner's lodge. Photo courtesy of Delaire Graff Estate.

The owner's lodge. Photo courtesy of Delaire Graff Estate.


Delaire Graff Estate
Stellenbosch
What's to Love: If it's privacy, good wine, and a beautiful setting that you're after, look no further than the intimate, villa-only estate. Nestled in the Cape Wineland's scenic Helshoogte Mountain pass, amid the area's many vineyards, the view from your private plunge pool is one to savor. A state-of-the-art winery, two outstanding restaurants, and a world-class spa make it ideal for a romantic getaway.

Babylonstoren
Simondium
What’s to Love: If you’ve ever longed to turn back time to an era where people lived on farm estates and grew their own food, this is the spot for you. The charming 500-acre Cape Dutch farm is straight out of a magazine spread, with bountiful fruit orchards and vegetable patches, friendly farmhands in matching uniforms, and simple but elegant white-washed guest cottages. Upon arrival, a general feeling of peacefulness and well-being will descend. This is how life should be, you’ll think to yourself, and for a few days that is. You’ll be immersed in the world of a working – albeit highly stylized – farm, where mornings start with an epic breakfast spread of fresh produce, homemade breads, cheeses, and yogurts, and eggs from the resident free-roaming hens. A state-of-the-art winery, serene spa, two swimming pools, hiking trails, mountain bikes, and farm shop offer plenty to see and do, but it’s dinner at Babel, the estate’s award-winning restaurant, that will be most memorable.

Singita Boulders Lodge
Sabi Sand Game Reserve
What’s to Love: If it’s an adventure you’re after, look no further than this secluded twelve-suite lodge on a private concession adjacent to South Africa’s Kruger National Park. Set along the wildlife-rich banks of the Sand River, the impressive safari lodge offers some of the best service we’ve ever experienced in one of nature’s most primitive environments. Days revolve around early-morning and late-afternoon game drives with a personal safari guide and tracker. Your goal: spotting Africa’s Big Five (lions, elephants, buffalo, leopards, and rhinoceros), along with other native species like hippos, zebra, giraffes, impala, and the elusive wild dog. Both exhilarating and utterly relaxing, each excursion feels like its own journey with a surprise ending. Come afternoon, you’ll retire to your private suite, a tranquil standalone villa that looks like it was carved out of the earth: Stone walls and large glass windows make it difficult to tell where your room ends and nature begins. A private plunge pool and outdoor shower will tempt you to hole up in your suite, but the rest of the lodge, with its swimming pool, spa, fitness center, and boutique, is worth exploring. We’d be remiss to not mention the delicious food, which is overseen by award-winning chef Liam Tomlin, and the lodge’s extensive wine cellar.

Atlantic House
Cape Town
What's to Love: A blissfully secluded guesthouse perched on a sea cliff. It is so private that staff departs every evening to leave you to your own devices. Take a dip in the heated saltwater pool or stargaze on a chaise with a digestif from the honesty bar. Head down to the Camps Bay strip for beachfront breakfast, lunch, or dinner. For a breath of fresh air, stroll the nearby Table Mountain natural reserve.

Ellerman House
Cape Town
What's to Love: The home-away-from-home feeling wrapped up in a stately, manicured Cape Edwardian mansion. Considered to have the most spectacular view in Cape Town, overlooking the Atlantic, yet only ten minutes from the action of the city.

Royal Malewane
Kruger National Park
What's to Love: Amazing meals and walking safaris in the bush. Rooms with soaring ceilings, canopy beds, fireplaces, and cozy outdoor showers. Traveling with another couple? Book The Royal suite for the private chef and massage therapist.

Singita Lebombo Lodge
Kruger National Park
What's to Love:Fifteen suites with private outdoor showers overlookng the N'wanetsi River, fireplaces, sweeping decks, and expansive views. Private tours, chefs, and butlers are at your service. No children younger than ten are allowed.

Tswalu Kalahari
Kalahari Desert
What's to Love: Nestled at the foot of the Korannaberg Mountains, subtly luxurious lodgings and top-knotch guides come together to perfectly redefine "safari." Get flown in on their luxurious Pilatus plane from Johannesburg airport. Stay in one of the eight spacious legae, little houses, with outdoor showers and big open fireplaces.
It's intimate, only twenty guests stay at a time.
Read More on Fathom: Safari Redefined: Wildlife and Low-Key Luxury in Tswalu

TANZANIA

andBeyond Ngorongoro Crater Lodge
Arusha
What's to Love: It's tribal meets luxury with rich, velvety curtains, a heated bed, French crystal glasses (for a fireside glass of sherry, and a view of the crater that would make even the most heartless brute weep. After a day on safari, you'll come home to a rose-petal strewn hot bath and chilled champagne. Is there any better prequel to a romantic romp?

Essque Zalu Zanzibar
Zanzibar
What's to Love: There's nothing quite like standing on a pier overlooking the Indian Ocean. The grounds are undeniably stunning, and it's easy to feel like you're truly getting away from it all.

Mwiba Lodge
Southern Serengeti
What's to Love: Romance is a cocktail of ambiance, privacy, and comfort, made even better in a dramatic setting far away from everyday life. The hotel feels like something out of Architectural Digest, set against the soothing sounds of an Arugusinyai River rushing below and the lions roaring in the midnight bush.

TUNISIA

Hotel Sidi Driss
Matmata, Tunisia
What's to Love: An ordinary room this is not. You may recognize the twenty-room, five-cavern hotel located in a Berber settlement (which by some accounts was founded in 146 B.C.E.) as Luke Skywalker's childhood home on Tatooine from Star Wars. There is no dark side: It's only $16 per night.

UGANDA

Volcanoes Bwindi Safari Lodge
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park
What's to Love: Eight thatched-roof bandas with picture-perfect jungle views from broad verandas, and the chance to spend your morning flirting with mountain gorillas.
Bring a bathing suit for the lodge's private swimming hole. And hiking boots, long pants, rain gear, and gloves for the gorilla treks. Save the massage for after your hike with 500-pound apes amid the slopes' tangled vines.

ZAMBIA

Luangwa Safari House
South Luangwa
What's to Love: A super chic blend of creature comforts — Neil Rocher-designed architecture, designer furniture, a private chef — surrounded by vast savannah wilderness. With some of the healthiest populations of elephants, giraffes, and hippos on the planet, South Luangwa is one of the wildest (and most remote) corners on earth. An excellent way to ease into a Zambian adventure.

Sindabezi Island
Just upriver from Victoria Falls
What's to Love: Five open-sided thatched cottages on a private island on the Zambezi River. Take an alfresco bubble bath in an antique claw-foot tub. Enjoy the flickering candle light of antique lanterns. Wake up to hippos bellowing in the water. Request Trega, the best personal butler you'll ever know. You can combine a stay on this island with one on the sister property, a short boat ride away.
Read More on Fathom: Our very own Zambiana Jones takes the trip of a lifetime.

The Bushcamp Company
South Luangwa National Park
What's to Love: Six distinct bushcamps are set up in the remote south of the park, where wildlife experiences are out-of-this-world. The resort also supports two local schools and runs eco initiatives (tree-planting, solar cookers, honey production).
Good to Know: Go in November when resident elephant families near Mfuwe Lodge are on the search for succulent wild fruit. One particular wily old matriarch (named Wonky Tusk) takes the most direct route to the mango trees, which means walking through the reception lounge.

ZANZIBAR

Mnemba Island Resort
Mnemba Island, Indian Ocean
What's to Love: A private island resort with ten very stylish free-standing bandas, outdoor living rooms, fantastic food, and world-class snorkeling. You can be active or do nothing. How else to know how Robinson Crusoe would have felt as a Zanzibari sultan?
Good to Know: There are no real roads, phones, or TVs (though there is wifi). You will be barefoot all the time. You will hear doves along with rare (and tiny!) Suni antelope. Bring ear plugs if you are a light sleeper — those doves melodically coo all day and night.

GIMME MORE LOVIN'

The World's Most Romantic Hotels

Contributors: Josh Abramson, Erinn Bucklan, Larry Burnett, Kym Canter, Caryl Chinn, Ondine Cohane, Sonya De Castelbajac, Melanie Dunea, Erin Hartigan, Rachel Kahlon, Devorah Klein Lev-Tov, Lanee Lee, Kelley McMillan, Christina Ohly, James Sturz, Rima Suqi, James Truman, Jess Teutonico.

Read More
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The World's Most Romantic Hotels: France

Honeymoons, anniversaries, engagements, make-ups — there are plenty of reasons to be amorous. Find love in all the right places with this list of romantic destinations in France.

Jump to: Paris | Côte d'Azur | Provence | Champagne-Ardenne | Poitou-Charentes | Haute-Savoie | Corsica | Courchevel

CHAMPAGNE-ARDENNE

Les Crayères
Reims
What's to Love: A sumptuous 20-room chateâu in the heart of Champagne. Feels like a mini-Versailles with romantic four-poster beds, vintage wallpaper patterns, oil paintings, and enormous marble bathrooms. Surrounded by seventeen acres of private park, so you might not want to leave the property.
Good to Know: The Michelin-starred restaurant Le Parc serves more than 400 Champagnes, many of which can only be found locally. After dinner, tuck into the cozy La Rotonde Bar for a nightcap.

Royal Champagne
Épernay
What's to Love: Opulent hotel overlooking the Marne Valley with an outstanding restaurant. Ideally situated for tours and tastings in twin Champagne meccas Epernay and Reims. Veuve Clicquot, Taittinger, and Dom Pérignon: oh yes.
Good to Know: Accessible from Paris by train, but you'll want to have a car to explore the local vineyards and sights.

CORSICA

Domaine de Murtoli
Where: Sartène
What's to Love: A stay in your own painstakingly renovated 17th-century farmhouse surrounded by 5,000 acres of natural farmland and miles of private beach is the best expression of rustic luxury I have ever experienced. You can order meals to your cottage for complete privacy, dine under an arched rock roof in a cave for a touch of society, or dig your toes into the sand at a beach restaurant made entirely of driftwood for an unforgettable moonlight dinner.

CÔTE D'AZUR

Château Eza
Èze
What's to Love: Perched (literally) atop a well-preserved medieval town that is itself perched on a Tolkein-esque mountain outcropping above the French Riviera. Ridiculously romantic tiny hotel with shockingly good views that extend all the way to St. Tropez and Corsica.
Good to Know: Confirm that your room has a balcony. And unless you have a fear of heights, insist on the balcony table in the Michelin-starred restaurant.

COURCHEVEL

Hotel Les Airelles
Where: Courchevel
What's to Love: You will aways greeted very warmly and wonderfully. The furniture and decoration in a home-y local style suit the hotel's secluded atmosphere.

HAUTE-SAVOIE

L'Abbaye de Talloires
Talloires
What’s to Love: Seventeenth-century abbey surrounded by grape arbors on extremely romantic Lake Annency in the French Alps. Not far from Geneva, but less obvious and more secluded. Resist the temptation to dine at the precious and stuffy Auberge du Pere Bise and hit the charming Café de la Place in the center of the village.
Good to Know: Get a room in the front of the hotel facing the lake. The rooms on the side are small and monk-like.

PARIS

Auberge du Jeu de Paume
Chantilly, France
What’s to Love: The chateau, originally a medieval fortress inhabited by many French families, is in the heart of horse country just outside Paris. The hotel complex includes the Condé Museum, home to the second largest collection of Master paintings after the Louvre. Rooms are decorated like a French mansion fantasy and overlook the Grand Stables, an 18th-century racecourse that still sees plenty of horsey action today. Ride on.

Haven
Paris
What's to Love: Feel like a local in your own Parisian pied-à-terre. Cute, well-decorated apartment rentals in prime locations throughout the city. It's nice to have the option of going to the market and preparing your own meals.
Good to Know: Apartments come with a computer and wifi. Use the Haven staff to help plan your visit; they make good suggestions.

Hôtel Bourg Tibourg
Paris
What's to Love: Sumptuous décor by Jacques Garcia that makes you feel like you're living in a jewel box. The small spaces are endearing and cozy; every detail is a delight. 
Good to Know: Request a room with a balcony and start the day with your flaky croissant and espresso outside in the morning. Have a drink in the the lounge and browse their extensive library of French authors. 

Hôtel Costes
Paris
What's to Love: If you have money to live like a rock star or supermodel, this is the place to do it. From hidden corners in the lobby to the bordello-inspired guest rooms, each space is suffused with a warm glow perfect for a rendezvous. Wear your sunglasses to breakfast in the courtyard, and people will wonder who you are.
Good to Know: Call ahead and have your room filled with flowers from the on-site florist.

Hôtel Plaza Athénée
Paris
What's to Love: Night views of the twinkling Eiffel Tower: It never gets old. Al fresco dining in the garden courtyard is one of the many brilliant touches.
Good to Know: Bring your chic. The Avenue Montaigne location means you're surrounded by beautiful shops, beautiful people, and beautiful food.
Read More on Fathom: Love Letter to the Plaza 

Hotel Sezz
Paris
What's to Love: Tucked away on a quiet residential street in the tony 16th arrondissement far from the tourist throngs, you can live your Parisian fantasies in total privacy. Sleek rooms are made for amour, with centerpiece beds, glass-walled bathrooms, and deep tubs.
Good to Know: The Veuve Clicquot Champagne bar doubles as a breakfast room; every guest is assigned a personal assistant for the duration of their stay.


Photo courtesy of La Reserve.

Photo courtesy of La Reserve.


La Reserve
Where: Paris
What's to Love: Absolutely everything. This brand new, ultra-luxurious boutique bolthole has light-filled suites, surrounding gardens, and a relaxing spa with pool (a rarity in the City of Lights).
Good to Know: The restaurant is an intimate Belle Epoque experience with exquisitely prepared fish, decadent, artisanal cheeses and a killer chocolate souffle. The challenge here will be leaving the property to explore the neighboring Grand Palais and the culture at your doorstep.

Le Bristol
Paris
What's to Love: Everything. Period, full stop. Start with the low-key yet incredibly efficient stable of concierges that recommend interesting restaurants and score hard to come by reservations (at Yam'tcha and Spring, to name but two). Next up, the peaceful, traditionally appointed rooms which make you want to stay inside and revel in the luxuriousness of it all. Mind-numbingly expensive but so worth it.
Good to know: Ask for a corner room on a higher floor which affords beautiful light as well as substantial sitting and bath rooms. The latter are outfitted with Hermes toiletries, enormous bathtubs, and steam showers the size of an average NYC apartment. Added bonus: The hotel's chef, Eric Frechon, is a three Michelin-starred chef. A meal here is a must.

L'Hotel
Paris
What's to Love: Cozy, historic hotel in the middle of St. Germain.
Good to Know: Use the concierge to secure restaurant reservations in advance of your trip and don't forget to check out the hotel's Michelin starred dining, L'Restaurant.
Read More on Fathom: L'Ultimate Hotel

Le Pavillon de la Reine
Where: Le Marais
What's to Love: Low-key hotel with an amazing location on Place des Vosges. Beautiful and picturesque courtyard and vine-covered facade. The staff is fantastic. 
Good to Know: Request one of the newly renovated rooms.

Radisson Blu Le Dokhan's Hotel
Paris
What's to Love: The Champagne bar, the extremely knowledgeable staff, and the ridiculousness of having a Louis Vuitton leather-lined elevator. Lovely rooms — they're small, but what room in Paris isn't? 
Good to Know: Request a room with views of the Eiffel Tower. Visit the market down the street to stock up on water, wine, and other drinks.
Read More on Fathom: My Parisian Fantasy

POITOU-CHARENTES

La Baronnie Domaine du Bien-Etre
St Martin de Ré, Il de Ré
What's to Love: Hidden hotel with a walled garden run by an ex-model and her osteopath husband. Very charming and quite chilled out at the same time.
Good to Know: There are few cars and you can bike the whole island in an afternoon.

Le Senechal
Ars en Ré
What's to Love: Sun-bleached pastels of an old fishing town given a relaxed contemporary finish.
Good to Know: Down the road you can hire bikes to use on the myriad of cycle-only paths around the island. Ile de Ré is where most of France's fleur de sel is produced.

PROVENCE

Baumanière
Lex Baux de Provence, France
What's to Love: A boutique hotel in the heart of picturesque Provence with luxurious surroundings — gardens, pools, and five distinct buildings with chic simple rooms — and one of the most wonderful restaurants anywhere. Sit outside in summer and savor fresh vegetables from their garden or sip Petrus in the 50,000-bottle wine cellar. Whatever the case, you need never leave this picturesque property. A weekend here feels completely restorative.

Hotel des deux Rocs
Seillans
What's to Love: The authentic French feel that's very grandmère meets contemporary. Wonderful on-site restaurant with traditional Provençal cuisine.
Good to Know: Don't build a to-do list — live without it. This is an authentic small town experience; those looking for amenities like wifi and bellhops will be disappointed.

La Bastide de Marie
Ménerbes
What's to Love: Surrounded by vineyards and olive groves, this place exudes authentic Provençal charm without being twee. Spend your afternoon watching the chef harvest lunch and dinner from the potager.
Good to Know: The manager has a pug named Sushi.

Baumanière
Where: Les Baux
What's to Love: A magical retreat that's all about sumptuous finishes, lounging by the pool, and eating and drinking. For a couple, there is really no reason to leave — except to possibly do some antiquing in nearby St. Remy.
Good to Know: People pilgrimage here for the haute cuisine and meals can take hours. Prepare to sip Chateau d'Yquem and stare lovingly into your partner's eyes as you lull through your food coma.


Photo courtesy of L'Oustau de Baumaniere.

Photo courtesy of L'Oustau de Baumaniere.


BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE

The World's Most Romantic Hotels

Contributors: Ingrid Bernstein, Rory Brownlee, Becca Bull, Anna Watson Carl, Caryl Chinn, Mark Colodny, Sonya de Castelbajac, Nicole Dunn, Christina Ohly Evans, Steven Learner, Kamal Mouzawak.

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The World's Most Romantic Hotels: The Western United States

Honeymoons, anniversaries, engagements, make-ups — there are plenty of reasons to be amorous. Find love in all the right places with this list of romantic destinations in the western United States.

Jump to: Alaska | Arizona | California | Colorado | Hawaii | New Mexico | Utah | Washington | Wyoming

ALASKA

Tordrillo Mountain Lodge
Judd Lake

What's to Love: A multimillion-dollar revamp by thrill-seeking owners (Olympic gold medalist Tommy Moe and Alaskan heli-ski pioneer Mike Overcast) takes the heart rate to new heights at this five-star, multi-sport wilderness lodge. A 40-minute floatplane flight from Anchorage lands guests in the remote Tordrillo Mountains, where stylish digs, fancy chefs, a lakeside sauna, and in-room massages round out helicopter-based adventure experiences all year long. An accomplished guide team leads guests in skiing and snowboarding through steep gullies and powder fields. Summer calls for glacier hiking, wake surfing, waterskiing, wildlife viewing, and catching the Northern Lights at night.

ARIZONA

Adobe Grand Villas
Sedona
What's to Love: Wagon Wheel Room, an incredibly homey and imaginative villa that immediately transports you to another time. Red sandstone landscape panoramas. Masseuse on staff.
Good to Know: Great short day-trip stopover if headed to Grand Canyon via Flagstaff.

Royal Palms Resort and Spa
Scottsdale
What's to Love: An intimate 1929 Spanish Revival villa at the foot of Camelback Mountain. Outdoor fireplaces, winding walking paths, and tranquil fountains cover the grounds. Guest rooms are decorated in lovely Mediterranean style. The on-site restaurant, T Cook's, prepares rustic cuisine like rotisserie in a 1930s fireplace. There's no reason to leave this kind of serenity.
Good To Know: Book a room with a fireplace and soaking tub. The Arizona air is very healing, and the Alvadora Spa does outdoor treatments in their lush garden.

CALIFORNIA

Northern California

Auberge du Soleil
Rutherford
What's to Love: Built as if it grew out of the hillside with an unobstructed view of the Napa Valley. Quiet elegance, privacy, very peaceful.
Good to Know: The service is immediate and understated. There's no reason to leave you thoughtfully stocked room, but you should for a magical dinner at the restaurant up the hill. Atmospherically, again, the intersection of nature and elegance.

Calistoga Ranch
Napa Valley
What's to Love: Romantic bungalows right out of Williams-Sonoma Home with incredible bedding. Fireplaces and wine. Just so, so much wine.
Good to Know: Be sure to have a nibble at the Lakeside Lounge. It's only open to hotel guests, which, considering the clientele, turns it into a Napa version of Soho House.

Duchamp Hotel
Healdsburg
What's to Love: This is a modern design fanatic's dream come true: private villas in the middle of wine country.
Good to Know: Return from a day at the vineyards to sip your purchases poolside.

Farmhouse Inn
Russian River Valley
What's to Love: Tucked away in the backwoods of beautiful Sonoma, the dreamy hotel has a fireplace in every room, fluffy feather beds, and huge soaking tubs. In the lobby, there are different kinds of homemade bath salts and soaps to squirrel away, and they hand you warm chocolate chip cookies and cold milk when you check in.
Good to Know: Rent a car. The Michelin-starred restaurant is amazing and there are several low-key wineries within a short drive. Take the on-site wine class taught by the restaurant's sommelier.
Read More on Fathom: Learning to Sit Still in Sonoma

Nick's Cove
Point Reyes
What's To Love: The waterfront cabins, which actually sit in the water on stilts, are as eccentric as they are delightful. Go for Nicolina, a reclaimed 1930s boat, and dream of the ocean.
Good To Know: The hills you'll gaze at across the water, Point Reyes Park, make for one of the most beautiful hikes in California.

The Carneros Inn
Napa
What's to Love: Cozy private cottages with secluded patios and outdoor showers. Breathtaking vineyard views at the infinity pool. Spa treatments take cues from wine country's harvest and terroir.
Good to Know: The Boon Fly Cafe's hearty breakfasts and FARM's elegant Cali cuisine make it hard to leave the rolling property.


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Hotel Les Mars

Healdsburg, California

What's to Love: It's a good time to give Napa and Sonoma a little love, as the area emerges from the fires that raged last fall. But there's no tragedy at this intimate nine-room hotel in the charming small town of Healdsburg. Evocative of 17th-century French chateau, the dreamy rooms have rich textiles, wood-burning fireplaces, deep marble bathtubs, and four-poster beds.

Central Coast

Glen Oaks Cabins
Big Sur
What's to Love: A nature lover's swoon spot. Luxury mid-century cabins, outdoor fire pits, fragrant Redwoods in absolute serene Big Sur beauty.
Good to Know: Worth the splurge for the Big Sur Cabin to fall asleep to sounds of the river after a soak in the outdoor claw-foot soaking tubs.

Post Ranch Inn
Big Sur
What's to Love: Everything — from the infinity pool overlooking the Pacific surrounded by Redwoods to the fact that they don't allow kids or visitors around the property. It's perfectly tranquil. Some ocean suites have their own hot tub sitting on the cliff. Oh, and no televisions.
Good to Know: There's no need to leave the compound, but if you do, try Big Sur Bakery and Café for fresh pastries and breads as well as rock star pizzas.

Southern California

Hotel Bel-Air
Los Angeles
What's to Love: The residential feel, the beautiful outdoor spaces, the pool, the small bungalows furnished with fireplaces, and the fact that you're hidden away but still close to the action.

Beverly Hills Hotel
Beverly Hills
What's to Love: Old-school glamour, secluded bungalows, and the best chopped salad and fries in the world. Along with the occasional Reese Witherspoon sighting.
Good to Know: It has just had a massive renovation, so it's very old-meets-new.

Hope Springs and Miracle Manor
Desert Hot Springs
What's to Love: Very small ex-motels (about ten and six rooms, respectively) done in perfect mid-century style (Hope is mid-century; Miracle is a bit more Zen). The natural hot springs are incredibly restorative, with beautiful mountain desert views that make for magical sunrise and sunsets. Interesting industry hipster types go there.
Good to Know: No children under 14 allowed and allegedly clothing is optional at Miracle Manor . The best time to go is February; any later than April is scorching.

Peninsula Beverly Hills
Beverly Hills
What's to Love: What isn't? Sumptuous suites in lush gardens are pure old Hollywood glamour, just updated with every electronic gadget imaginable. The hotel is the kind of escape from reality where no detail is overlooked, from the silent spa (try the Duet Moonlight Massage, which is also available in a poolside cabana) to incredibly high thread counts to delicious breakfasts in the sun at the Roof Garden restaurant.
Good to Know: Feel no pressure to be cultural — or engaged in the world in any way. You're in LA, and this is a hotel to be checked into and thoroughly enjoyed. Besides, the room service is so excellent, you don't even need to leave to eat.

San Ysidro Ranch
Montecito, Santa Barbara
What's to Love: We're talking an outstanding experience. A 12 on a scale of 1-10. Laid-back atmosphere, scrupulous attention to detail, a hilltop pool, scenic hiking trails surrounding the sprawling, 500-acre spread. You're greeted in the driveway, and whisked straight to your lovely yet low-key cottage. No pesky paperwork. The bungalow-style cottages are individually designed, with big sitting rooms, peaceful terraces, and soaring ceilings in the bathrooms.
Good to Know: For dinner, try the wood-fired pizzas and sashimi at Plow & Angel. Or the Stonehouse is a more formal option.
Read More on Fathom: History, Hollywood, Heaven in San Ysidro Ranch

Shutters on the Beach
Santa Monica
What's to Love: Those huge bathtubs and comfy beds just spell romance. Plus cozy lobby bar and two good restaurants (one fancy, one casual).
Good to Know: Northern-facing rooms have view of Santa Monica Pier and Ferris wheel. A five-minute walk puts you on Main Street, a trove of funky shops and good food.

The Willows
Palm Springs
What's to Love: Lavish yet private yet warm and friendly B&B tucked into Mt. San Jacinto where Albert Einstein, Shirley Temple, and Clark Gable once frolicked (presumably not together).
Good to Know: The O'Donnell House, a sister property up the hill used for weddings and events, affords some of the region's best views, as well as a stone-walled "grotto" that's oddly profound.

COLORADO

Taylor River Lodge
Crested Butte
What's to Love: Open from late May through mid-October, the off-grid locale deep in Taylor Canyon is a woodsy wonderland perfect for families. There are private cabins with various set-ups — lofts, bunk beds, kitchens, and a teepee lounge. The all-inclusive rate includes not only food and drink (and an awesome mini bar), but activities like river rafting, axe-throwing, fly fishing, mountaineering, shooting BB guns (you'll shoot yer eye out, kid), and access to the beautiful pool cabin.

HAWAII

Four Seasons Hualalai
Kailua-Kona
What's to Love: Totally dreamy. (And totally pricey.) Rooms are buried within leafy foliage, producing a manicured jungle feel. Individual outdoor showers burst with orchids.
Good to Know: The pond is meant for snorkeling, and swimming among jewel-colored creatures without fear of hungry sharks or rogue waves is a singular experience.
Read More on Fathom: See our Hawaii Big Island itinerary for tips on what to do, eat, and see.

Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows
Kohala Coast
What's to Love: One of the rare independent hotels on the island. The amazing beach is a private crescent of powdery sand lapped by calm turquoise water frequented by sea turtles.
Good to Know: The staff, many of whom have been there forever, provide indispensable advice for exploring the island like an insider.
Read More on Fathom: See our Hawaii Big Island itinerary for tips on what to do, eat, and see.

Volcano House Hotel
Hawaii National Park, Hawaii
What's to Love: While it won't be the most elegant and traditionally romantic place you'll ever stay, your love here will feel extra, er, explosive: The hotel is located on the caldera rim of Kilauea, one of the most active volcanoes in the world, and that's Halema'uma'u crater bubbling lava a short distance away.

NEW MEXICO

Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado Santa Fe
Santa Fe
What's to Love: Sit around the circle fire pit with a hot toddy and soak in the magic of the distant Jemez Mountains and the warm, soothing scent of pinion wood.
Good to Know: If you're there during opera season, have the hotel set up a Champagne tailgate and sit under the stars.


Photo courtesy of Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado Santa Fe.

Photo courtesy of Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado Santa Fe.


Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi
Santa Fe
What's To Love: A warm, cozy spot nestled in the heart of Santa Fe, with Navajo rugs, hand-carved doors, beamed ceilings, and sandstone walls. A pinion wood fire burns in the lobby, making for an intoxicating scent of the Southwest. The lighting is low; the mood is relaxed. You will feel exceptionally cozy.
Good to Know: Book a superior room with a balcony for the an enticing kiva fireplace. Yes, you'll feel like you're on fire in the best possible way.

UTAH

Amangiri
Canyon Point
What's to Love: Perhaps one of the most romantic spots on earth due to the surrounding dramatic canyons and plateaus, spare aesthetic (starchitect Annabelle Selldorf designed the adjacent villas), and lovely, understated swimming pool. Enormous soaking tubs, rain showers, and all kinds of stone, leather, and wood finishes make it an ultimate oasis.
Good to know: The setting 600 acres overlooking Escalante National Monument makes for all kinds of guided hiking and biking options. And since this is an Aman resort, the Zen spa with its flotation room is not to be missed.

WASHINGTON

The Willows Inn
Lummi Island
What's to Love: In a quintessential Pacific Northwest setting, cozy rooms and quaint activities (bocce! bike riding! puzzles!) offer ideal complements to renowned farm-and sea-fresh dining experience.
Good to Know: Come for the food, stay for the views. Weather permitting, sit on the deck for the best sunset perch.

WYOMING

Amangani
Jackson Hole
What's to Love: The spectacular Grand Tetons steal the show at the spare, elegant retreat where massive suites in neutral hues will make you never want to leave.
Good to Know: A spectacularly sleek, outdoor pool is available for use in all seasons, and bespoke trail rides and trips to nearby Yellowstone are not to be missed.


Eyes drawn upward at Amangani. Photo courtesy of Aman Resorts.

Eyes drawn upward at Amangani. Photo courtesy of Aman Resorts.


BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE

The World's Most Romantic Hotels

Contributors: Cassandra Barry, David Bernahl, Ingrid Bernstein, Becca Bergman Bull, Eve Epstein, Christina Ohly Evans, Emily Fiffer, Nikole Flores, Laura House, Justin Kazmark, Sally Horchow, Stephanie March, Carrie Molay, Lanee Neil, Karen Palmer, Margaret Spencer, Bridgette Thom, James Truman.

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A Cradle for Culture and Good Food: Seville

Enough culture to please the parents, enough parks to please the kids, enough laid-back living to please the whole family. Seville is a totally charming family getaway.

SEVILLE, Spain – It's hard to find the perfect place for families with kids of all ages and varied interests, but I came pretty close to Nirvana on a recent trip to Seville, Spain. The surrounding region of Andalusia ticks off so many of the boxes for the ideal trip: lovely streets, bright sunlight, calm pace of life, endless gardens, kindest people, and lots of fried food. Throw in the cultural highlights like mezquitas, cathedrals, and royal palaces, and, well, stop looking for other places to go.

An off-peak visit during winter, spring, and fall is ideal, as temperatures soar to 110+ degrees in the more crowded summer months. Orange trees abound, as do parks, play spaces, and casual restaurants at every turn. The one thing you'll have to adjust for is the eating schedule with kids. Spain marches to its own beat, even within Europe, and dinner is still not served before 9 p.m. Don't fight it: Just push the whole schedule back — late breakfast, late lunch, tapas around 6:30, then dinner as the locals do it. Andale!


La Giralda, the symbol of Seville.

La Giralda, the symbol of Seville.


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WHAT TO DO

Go to Church
Where to begin? With an UNESCO World Heritage Site: the city's central Cathedral, Catedral de Santa María de la Sede, and its bell tower, La Giralda. Set on what was once a 12th-century mosque, the Gothic beauty is a wonderful mix of Moorish architecture and Christian elements (ornate chapels, golden altars, elaborately carved tombs.) Kids will love the climb to the top of the bell tower that was once a minaret and affords views over sprawling Seville and the Patio de los Naranjos below.

The entrance to Real Alcázar.

The entrance to Real Alcázar.


Keep it Real
Head practically next door to Real Alcázar, the royal residence that is a wonderful mix of grand halls and endless gardens. Fountains, flowering plants and trees, and places to run free all work for families, and you'll appreciate just being able to sit and take in the beauty of the surrounding patios and porticos. Much of the plasterwork was created by artisans from neighboring Granada, and the honeycomb structures and horseshoe archways make it feel very much like the Alhambra in Granada. Head inside the apartments for glittering domes, ornate tapestries, and Spanish tile work.


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All three photos taken in the semi-circular Plaza de España, which features Venetian-style canals and Mudejar tilework.

All three photos taken in the semi-circular Plaza de España, which features Venetian-style canals and Mudejar tilework.


Park It
Maria Luisa Park, the largest in Seville, and is the perfect place for children to run free after exploring Plaza de España.  Considered one of the most beautiful public spaces in Europe, the park was redesigned by Jean-Claude Nicolas Forestier, landscaper of Bois de Bologne in Paris. Rent quad bikes and explore allees of palm trees with fragrant roses, or simply park it on a bench with an ice cream cone and watch the slow pace of Seville life pass by.

Culture Club
For a Mannerist museum experience, visit Museo de Bellas Artes where even non-art-lovers (AKA nine-year-olds) will be wowed by enormous artworks by Francisco de Zurbaran, Juan de Valdes Leal, and Bartolome Esteban Murillo, not to mention El Greco and Goya. Sprawling altarpieces fit beautifully into the museum's soaring spaces and cupola.

The Archaoelogical Museum, designed for the 1929 Ibero-American Exhibition, is full of treasures from the 15th century and earlier. You'll find exquisite examples of Roman marble statuary, tombs, funerary urns, and the Treasure of El Carambolo, a collection of gold armor and assorted pieces dating from the 7th and 8th centuries. A short and sweet gallery exposure for those who would rather be back exploring the parks, plazas, and tapas bars.


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La Mezquita de Cordoba is just spectacular.

La Mezquita de Cordoba is just spectacular.


An interior courtyard of the Great Mosque.

An interior courtyard of the Great Mosque.


Day Trip to Cordoba
The high speed train makes nearby Cordoba an excellent excursion. The main attraction: The Great Mosque of Cordoba (la Mezquita), which is now functions as a Roman Catholic cathedral. It's easily one of the most spectacular buildings on earth, a dazzling Moorish and Renaissance architectural feat, with colorful horseshoe-shaped arches and columns of jasper, onyx, and marble. The city's other delights include bell towers, orange groves, and a honey-combed dome.

It's all about the easy living. At every turn.

It's all about the easy living. At every turn.


WHERE TO EAT

Lunch is a pleasure in this town on so many fronts. Since it's sunny most of the time, you'll want to eat outside on the wide avenues teeming with cafes. Watching the locals stroll and taking their leisurely time reminds you that a harried pace of life is, well, unhealthy.

Makekosa 
Calle San Fernando 23; +34-954-047-371
Great for festive lunches of wood-fired pizzas and huge local salads (always served with tuna, white asparagus, and corn). 

Bar Giralda
Calle Mateos Gago 1; 34-954-563-702 
An old school Sevillana tapas bar complete with delicious sangria and stunning views of La Giralda. Go early and preferably off-season, as this one gets packed in high summer.

El Rinconcillo
Spinach with chickpeas and cod fritters were outstanding, as was, of course, the Iberian cured ham, which we devoured with simple, crusty bread.

Restaurante Modesto
A bustling Andalucian restaurant spread over two floors and with a vibrant terrace that serves local specialties like fried grouper, mussels, and enormous trays piled with ham, cheeses, salami, and more. Wash it all down with Marqués de Villalua, the local white wine.


Photo: Courtesy of Gran Meliá Colon

Photo: Courtesy of Gran Meliá Colon


WHERE TO STAY

Gran Meliá Colón
The perfect starting point for Seville, and the staff couldn't be friendlier. Set in the heart of the old city, you'll be within walking distance of everything from the cathedral to El Corte Ingles (a mega store with great groceries). Book RedLevel, the boutique hotel within the hotel, for a separate sitting area and views over the whitewashed city. Added bonus: Each floor is dedicated to a Spanish artist (El Greco, Goya, etc.) and every room door is painted with that artist's work. Coming home to Velázquez's Las Meninas was a slightly campy hoot for everyone involved. Kids will love visiting the entire "art collection" throughout the hotel's seven floors. I won't lie: I liked the lobby sightings of Rafael Nadal, in town for the Davis Cup. 

Hotel Doña María
Located next to the Palacio Arzobispal, overlooking La Giralda, with a small swimming pool, which makes a great escape for kids in the extremely hot summer months.

Hotel Alfonso XIII 
The best five-star, neo-Moorish hotel game in town just had a multi-million dollar renovation, making for luxe comfort in the best location. Ornate ironwork, Andalusian frescoes, soaring archways and ceilings, not to mention endless pleasant patio settings. Feels  like you’re living in a museum. 

EME Catedral Hotel
If you're looking to up your hip factor, look no further than EME, a collection of 18th- and 19th-century houses in the midst of Seville that have been integrated into one stunning 70-room property. A rooftop pool (serious rarity), beautiful views of the Cathedral, a spa, and four on-site restaurants make this minimally chic spot a complete treat.


The bull ring in Plaza de Toros.

The bull ring in Plaza de Toros.


PLAN YOUR TRIP

Fly: Seville Airport (SVQ) is just ten minutes from the city center. It is small and relatively manageable, though you'll want to leave plenty of extra time for check-in and security screening. Fly direct from London on Easyjet or Ryanair, or connect in Madrid on Iberia for more flight options.

WEATHER

The sun shines on this part of the world, literally and figuratively. Spring and fall months are ideal for touring with warm days and just slightly chilly evenings.
- Average high/low temperatures in Farenheit: 95/66 in summer; 61/42 in winter
- April-October: highs from mid-70s to mid-90s
- November-March: highs in mid- to low-60s

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A True Epiphany for the Silicon Valley Hotel Scene

You can now visit your kids at Stanford or your friend at Google in style. With the opening of The Epiphany, the Silicon Valley hotel scene is no longer a wasteland. Contributing editor Christina Ohly takes a look around.

You can now visit your kids at Stanford or your friend at Google in style. With the opening of The Epiphany, the Silicon Valley hotel scene is no longer a wasteland. Contributing editor Christina Ohly takes a look around.

CHECKING IN

Overview

PALO ALTO, California – You're lucky if you actually get to check into a hotel in Silicon Valley, as it is one of the most underserved hotel markets in America. With the explosion of tech, the draw of Stanford University, and lovely weather year-round, the southern end of the San Francisco Peninsula is a huge draw for business people and tourists alike, many of whom have to travel south toward San Jose to score a good night's sleep.

No longer. The Epiphany, the new addition to the hotel scene, is perfectly placed in downtown Palo Alto just steps from incubators, investment banks, yoga studios, and the most excellent chopped salads ever.

At just a year old, The Epiphany is the luxury boutique hotel for the tech crowd. Located in the heart of Palo Alto just off University Avenue with its bustling restaurants and VC chatter, The Epiphany is a design-led, sleek spot with no airs whatsoever. The parent company, smart Joie de Vivre hotel group, has struck a series of partnerships with emerging tech companies — Jawbone and New York-based Master & Dynamic audio among them — to introduce guests to the latest in Fitbit and headphone technology. Rooms have sleek furnishings with natural wood finishes, flat screen TVs, and lovely terraces overlooking downtown.

Claim to Fame

The hotel is just over a year old and is already drawing an innovative, SURFACE-magazine-loving design crowd. There are lots of unique touches — kitted out minibars and fridges, activity trackers and sleep measurement devices — and an enthusiastic staff that are truly eager to please.

Quite the tech-savvy looker. Photo courtesy of The Epiphany.

Quite the tech-savvy looker. Photo courtesy of The Epiphany.


The bar at Lure + Till. Photo by Aubrie Pick.

The bar at Lure + Till. Photo by Aubrie Pick.


Colorful plates from Lure + Till. Photo by Aubrie Pick.

Colorful plates from Lure + Till. Photo by Aubrie Pick.


What's on Site

The WiFi is excellent (natch) as is all of the technology (from TVs to bathroom lighting). The rooms and suites on the 7th and 8th floors have outstanding views (room 802 is a winner) and there is a focus throughout on natural light. The hotel restaurant, Lure + Till, is an excellent, standalone draw. Vivre gym across the street offers a full-service program, including classes, for those in search of a comprehensive workout. A Project Edison chandelier — a kinetic light sculpture created with tech company IDEO — pulses and retracts in response to various data streams and makes sitting in the lobby a complete joy. And it should probably go without say that if you're in town for meetings, the hotel has great facilities if it's your turn to host the team.

The Food

Lure + Till is a winner — for the after-work drinks crowd as well as for business lunches and for more refined dinners. Chef Patrick Kelly creates everything from approachable California staples like Cobb salad and roasted chicken wraps with harissa to elegant mains like Sonoma duck breast and grilled seafood a la plancha. All locally sourced and foraged, of course. The bar is a huge draw as well, not only for the craft cocktails, but also for the outdoor seating and vibrant, ideas-filled scene. Breakfast is similarly well executed, with a focus on fresh, somewhat healthy favorites, including homemade granola and excellent spinach and mushroom omelets.

In the Room

The custom Smeg mini bars deserve a standalone review, but let's just say you won't leave The Epiphany hungry. In addition to standard chocolates, artisanal potato chips, and Project Juice drinks, The Epiphany's versions are tailored to the guest, with offerings of market greens, seared albacore tuna tarts with olive tapenade, and housemate pickles.

This Place Is Perfect For

The business traveler, the coder, the venture capitalist, and anyone in touch with their inner geek. In addition to being well located for meetings with bankers and developers, the hotel is also in striking distance of Stanford.

But Not So Perfect For

Anyone in search of a bucolic, country experience, a swimming pool, or a spa. The Epiphany is a lovely, urban vibe.

Room with a View

I stayed in room 802 and found the experience sublime. A sprawling terrace with tables, chairs, and sunbrellas made working outside heavenly. That lovely California light streamed throughout my high-ceilinged sitting area and made 802 feel more like an apartment than a cramped hotel room.

Rooms are spacious and serene. Photo courtesy of The Epiphany.

Rooms are spacious and serene. Photo courtesy of The Epiphany.


Bedroom with meeting space. Photo by Aubrie Pick.

Bedroom with meeting space. Photo by Aubrie Pick.


Custom Smeg mini bar. Photo courtesy of The Epiphany.

Custom Smeg mini bar. Photo courtesy of The Epiphany.


CHECKING OUT

Neighborhood Vibe

You'll be one block from University Avenue, which has everything from the basics (CVS, Starbucks) to great, relatively inexpensive cafes. Local Union is a new lunch spot that serves enormous salads and sandwiches in a rustic, airy setting. Hanahaus is the new coffee communal workspace for networking and absorbing the incredible energy in the Valley. Other foodie highlights include Tamarine for excellent Vietnamese dishes, Evvia for mezzes and chicken souvlaki, and Oren's Hummus Shop for delicious pitas stuffed with chicken, tahini, and a secret sauce. Be sure to arrive early — lines start forming at Oren's at 11:30 a.m. The new kid on the block is Sushirrito, a maki roll meets burrito concept where the Satori (a kampachi yellowtail, cucumber, pickled red onion, sweet corn, red tobiko, avocado, and wasabi mayo combo) has people waiting for 30 minutes or more. Those excellent chopped salads, by the way, are at Pluto's.

What to Do Nearby

Don't miss the relatively new Anderson Collection at Stanford University where modern and contemporary artworks by Mark Rothko, Jackson Pollock, Robert Motherwell, and Louise Nevelson are displayed in spare, soothing spaces. Continue on to the Cantor Arts Center before visiting the iconic Hoover Tower at the center of campus. An easy hike to the Stanford Dish at the edge of town leads to excellent views of the Valley, the Bay, and its bridges in the distance.

Good to Know

Book as far ahead as you can, and take into account Stanford football games, parents' visiting days, and major tech conferences. With just 86 rooms, The Epiphany books up well in advance.

BOOK IT

Rates start at $269. Click here for reservations. 

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