The ‘King’ of Lake Como Shares Where to Go On and Off the Water
Daniele Riva, scion of the legendary boat-making family, knows his way around every corner of the lake.
Even in Italy, where seemingly every business has been in the family forever, Cantiere Ernesto Riva stands out. The Lake Como–based boatyard was founded in 1771 to transport the area’s gray limestone to Milan for the construction of the Duomo. Today, sixth-generation boatbuilder Daniele Riva continues the work of his father (and grandfather and...), painstakingly crafting wood-hulled boats by hand. Though the brand is best known for the glamorous 1950s mahogany motorboats that were synonymous with la dolce vita, Riva is continually nudging it forward, like with his recent collab with Spanish architect Patricia Urquiola on custom boats for Il Sereno hotel. Here, he taps into nearly 300 years of institutional knowledge to share his favorite spots on the lake.
WHERE TO PULL UP
From the Water
“Villa La Cassinella, Richard Branson’s spectacular property in Lenno, is best seen by boat. So is the little island of Comacina—it has just one restaurant, the Locanda dell’Isola Comacina, which serves beautiful lake trout. If you do a tour, use Como Classic Boats and request Duilio—no one knows the lake better!”
Rooms with Views
“The very modern Il Sereno hotel in Torno is the best for floor-to-ceiling lake views. For a more historic feel, there’s the grand Villa d’Este in Cernobbio or the sweet Hotel Rusall in Tremezzina.”
House and Garden
“The 18th-century Villa del Balbianello in Lenno is magnificent; Casino Royale was shot there. So is the Villa Carlotta in Tremezzina. Both are now museums with sprawling gardens open to the public.”
The Long Lunch
“In the midlake village of Bellagio, right next to I Giardini di Villa Melzi, is Ristorante alle Darsene di Loppia. It’s classy, but not stuffy. I’ll have a fresh crudo lunch and then wander the grounds.”
Lee F. Mindel, FAIA
Touring Lake Como in northern Italy by boat (like this vintage wood launch hired in Cernobbio) is the best way to see the many grand villas and historic towns that line its shores. Related: 10 New Exotic Retreats Around the World
Café Culture
“The best espresso and croissants, not just in Italy but in the world, are from Pasticceria Poletti in Cernobbio.”
The Bring Back
“For leather belts and bags, I like L’Arte di Modellare Il Cuoio in Como. Laura Epifani in Cernobbio is the place for shoes and boots.”
Apertivo Hour
“Da Luciano in Laglio is a former butcher shop that serves outstanding bresaola—so soft and tasty, especially with a glass of red wine from the nearby Inferno region. Harry’s Bar—no relation to the other Harry’s—in Cernobbio does a great Aperol spritz.”
Like Nonna Makes
“Trattoria del Porto near the pier in Careno is a family affair—two brothers serve creamy risotto, perch, and misultin, a local whitefish that’s dried in salt and placed under a weight all winter. I swear it’s delicious.”
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