The ‘King’ of Lake Como Shares Where to Go On and Off the Water

Daniele Riva, scion of the legendary boat-making family, knows his way around every corner of the lake.

Even in Italy, where seemingly every business has been in the family forever, Cantiere Ernesto Riva stands out. The Lake Como–based boatyard was founded in 1771 to transport the area’s gray limestone to Milan for the construction of the Duomo. Today, sixth-generation boatbuilder Daniele Riva continues the work of his father (and grandfather and...), painstakingly crafting wood-hulled boats by hand. Though the brand is best known for the glamorous 1950s mahogany motorboats that were synonymous with la dolce vita, Riva is continually nudging it forward, like with his recent collab with Spanish architect Patricia Urquiola on custom boats for Il Sereno hotel. Here, he taps into nearly 300 years of institutional knowledge to share his favorite spots on the lake.

WHERE TO PULL UP

From the Water
“Villa La Cassinella, Richard Branson’s spectacular property in Lenno, is best seen by boat. So is the little island of Comacina—it has just one restaurant, the Locanda dell’Isola Comacina, which serves beautiful lake trout. If you do a tour, use Como Classic Boats and request Duilio—no one knows the lake better!”

Rooms with Views
“The very modern Il Sereno hotel in Torno is the best for floor-to-ceiling lake views. For a more historic feel, there’s the grand Villa d’Este in Cernobbio or the sweet Hotel Rusall in Tremezzina.”

House and Garden
“The 18th-century Villa del Balbianello in Lenno is magnificent; Casino Royale was shot there. So is the Villa Carlotta in Tremezzina. Both are now museums with sprawling gardens open to the public.”

The Long Lunch
“In the midlake village of Bellagio, right next to I Giardini di Villa Melzi, is Ristorante alle Darsene di Loppia. It’s classy, but not stuffy. I’ll have a fresh crudo lunch and then wander the grounds.”

Lee F. Mindel, FAIA

Touring Lake Como in northern Italy by boat (like this vintage wood launch hired in Cernobbio) is the best way to see the many grand villas and historic towns that line its shores. Related: 10 New Exotic Retreats Around the World

Café Culture
“The best espresso and croissants, not just in Italy but in the world, are from Pasticceria Poletti in Cernobbio.”

The Bring Back
“For leather belts and bags, I like L’Arte di Modellare Il Cuoio in Como. Laura Epifani in Cernobbio is the place for shoes and boots.”

Apertivo Hour
“Da Luciano in Laglio is a former butcher shop that serves outstanding bresaola—so soft and tasty, especially with a glass of red wine from the nearby Inferno region. Harry’s Bar—no relation to the other Harry’s—in Cernobbio does a great Aperol spritz.”

Like Nonna Makes
“Trattoria del Porto near the pier in Careno is a family affair—two brothers serve creamy risotto, perch, and misultin, a local whitefish that’s dried in salt and placed under a weight all winter. I swear it’s delicious.”

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EXPLORELAKE COMOITALY

Switzerland's Kulm Hotel Expansion Draws Michelin-Starred Chefs and Sports Fanatics

The historic Ice Pavilion in St. Moritz gets an upgrade, courtesy of Pritzker Prize-winner Norman Foster, with new modern, cantilevered sports venues and a world-class restaurant.

Visitors to Switzerland’s Engadine Valley—home to high-end ski haven St. Moritz at 6,000 feet—have a new destination to consider, thanks to the opening of the Kulm Country Club at the storied Kulm Hotel. Following a £9 million (USD $11.3 million) renovation and expansion of the original Ice Pavilion—a two-story structure built in 1905 that figured prominently in the 1928 and 1948 Olympic Games—as well as a serene oak-paneled restaurant, lounge, and sprawling sun terrace, the new spaces will create a vibrant arts and events hub for the entire Alpine community.

“I have lived in St. Moritz for many years, so this project is very close to my heart,” says Lord Foster of the year-long project, inspired by “the sporting heritage of the region. "It connects with the history of the building, while adapting it for new uses.” Designed to enhance the flourishing arts and athletics scene in the perpetually chic ski resort, the Foster + Partners buildings have been reimagined using larch, ash, and oak—local timber in keeping with the tradition of the region. The results are spare, light-filled spaces that showcase the Kulm’s vintage sports memorabilia—bobsleighs, skis, photographs, and assorted artifacts—and capitalize on the breathtaking mountain views beyond.

One of the most exciting aspects of the Kulm project is the permanent pop-up restaurant concept that will kick-off with multi-Michelin-starred Daniel Humm of Eleven Madison Park, followed by inventive takes on bistro classics courtesy of 2016’s Gault Millau Chef of the Year, Nenad Mlinarevic, for the month of February. Next up in the rotating residency line-up will be chef Mauro Colagreco, of two Michelin-starred Mirazur in the south of France, who will prepare his signature South American-inflected, Mediterranean specialties that are vegetable-centric and focused on simple (yet striking) color and flavor combinations.

“Designed in the spirit of a mini stadium,” says Foster, of the multipurpose pavilion overlooking the expansive skating rink, “it is envisaged as the focus of the annual calendar of sporting and cultural events such as the medal ceremonies for the World Ski Championships in February (6–19), the Festival da Jazz, and the British Classic Car Meeting in summer.” The restaurant and lounge will complement these Kulm Park events, and, as Foster hopes, “become a new social space for the community, a place for everyone to come together and celebrate.”

How to Have the Perfect Family Vacation in the Berkshires

Great Barrington & Stockbridge

After your dose of high art, these historic towns offer more low-key culture. Start at Stockbridge’s Norman Rockwell Museum; this summer’s event “Mom, Apple Pie, and Rockwell’s Models” is a celebration of the simple pleasures that inspired the artist, with music, classic American fare, and the chance to meet some of his models (413-298-4100).

STAY

The history lessons continue at the Red Lion Inn in Stockbridge. Dating from 1773, it has period furnishings and a wide porch with rocking chairs (30 Main St.; 413-298-5545; doubles from $155).

Williamstown & North Adams

From here, it’s a few miles east to North Adams and MASS MoCA. Stop by the contemporary art hub’s dedicated Kidspace, which has installations by Anselm Kiefer and colorful wall drawings by Sol LeWitt (413-662-2111). Nearly an acre of interior walls were built at MASS MoCA to showcase LeWitt’s large-scale drawings.

STAY

After a day of exploring, retreat to the Porches Inn at MASS MoCA, a series of Victorian row houses with oversized rooms and suites that work particularly well for families (231 River St.; 413-664-0400; doubles from $190). The pool is a big plus on hot summer days, as are the breakfasts, which are delivered to your door in traditional millworkers’ lunch boxes. There’s also the Guest House at Field Farm, a Williamstown B&B with a mid-century modern aesthetic and an impressive contemporary art collection. It’s on 300-plus acres of conservation land, with guided walks for children in summer (554 Sloan Rd.; 413-458-3135; doubles from $200).

Lenox & Becket

Summer is high season for the performing arts here. Tanglewood, home of the Boston Symphony Orchestra in July and August, premieres on July 5 in Lenox, south of Williamstown. Pack a picnic, sit on the lawn, and listen to performers like Joshua Bell, Yo-Yo Ma, and James Taylor. The Afternoon Family Concerts and the Boston Pops’ rendition of _The Wizard of Oz _are lively and informal, with children roaming (relatively) free on the lawns, even during concerts (888-266-1200).

PLAY

There’s always something inspiring to see at the Jacob’s Pillow Dance Festival in Becket, where free outdoor performances Wednesday through Saturday evenings—more than 40 throughout the season—offer a distinguished lineup of contemporary dance and ballet (413-243-0745). Shakespeare & Company’s summer production of _Romeo and Juliet _at The Mount—Edith Wharton’s majestic former estate, pictured here—gives young theatergoers an introduction to the playwright, while scavenger hunts keep the little ones busy in maze-like gardens (413-551-5111).

Lenox & Becket

Even in an area with no shortage of great lodgings and restaurants, Wheatleigh—a spectacular 19th-century Florentine-inspired palazzo in Lenox—stands out as one of the most luxurious. Parents can relax in a neutral-hued suite or by the pool while children explore the endless lawns (11 W. Hawthorne Rd.; 413-637-0610; doubles from $715). Stonover Farm, a B&B also in Lenox, has two stand-alone villas—the two-bedroom Rock Cottage and the 600-square-foot School House—for families craving a little extra space (169 Under Mountain Rd.; 413-637-9100; doubles from $335). Just up the road, the stately Blantyre is another excellent option; kids will love the turrets, gargoyles, and other castle-like ornamentation, as well as games like boccie, shuffleboard, and croquet. There’s also a superlative spa for adults (16 Blantyre Rd.; 413-637-3556; doubles from $600).

Lenox & Becket

Regardless of where you stay, stop at a roadside stand for fresh produce, then breakfast burritos and granola at the Haven Cafe and Bakery in Lenox (8 Franklin St.; 413-637-8948). And be sure to have dinner at Becket’s Dream Away Lodge, a farmhouse where the food, including the delicious duck carnitas tacos, is as magical as the atmosphere; there’s also live music and bonfires nightly (1342 County Rd.; 413-623-8725; entrées from $20).

Williamstown & North Adams

A quintessential college town complete with church spires and a postcard-worthy main street, Williamstown (home of Williams College) would merit a stop even if it weren’t the site of the new Tadao Ando–designed Clark Art Institute, which opens on the Fourth of July. Families can fill an entire afternoon and evening on some days with everything from outdoor concerts to the stellar collection of Impressionist art, as well as the interactive Looking Carefully Cards for kids six and up, which turn gallery gazing into an act of discovery (413-458-2303). For your naturalists-in-training, head to Cricket Creek Farm, a working Williamstown dairy and bakery where they’ll learn about caring for farm animals and making cheese (1255 Oblong Rd.; 413-458-5888). Or you can spend an afternoon watching dragonflies flit and red-tailed hawks soar at Mountain Meadow Preserve, 180 pastoral acres with miles of easy trails just up the road from Williamstown (413-298-3239).

Great Barrington & Stockbridge

Also in Stockbridge, the Berkshire Botanical Garden (pictured)—with its free Family Fridays featuring birds of prey and the snakes of Berkshire County, a hut made of willow, and a Hogwarts-inspired herb garden full of wacky-looking plants—shouldn’t be missed (413-298-3926). Nor should the nearby Naumkeag, an eccentric Gilded Age estate with eight acres of terraced gardens (413-298-3239).

Great Barrington & Stockbridge

Cooling off at Bash Bish Falls State Park, home to the area’s highest single-drop waterfall and a short drive from Great Barrington.

Great Barrington & Stockbridge

For another outdoor excursion, visit Otis Reservoir (pictured), outside Great Barrington, or Sheffield’s Bartholomew’s Cobble, the only National Natural Landmark in the Berkshires, with massive limestone and marble outcroppings created by ancient geologic shifts (413-229-8600).

Great Barrington & Stockbridge

Picking berries is a rite of summer in the Berkshires, with blueberry season kicking off at Great Barrington’s Windy Hill Farm on or around the Fourth of July (413-298-3217). Nearby, Noble’s Tweenbrook Farm has strawberries (356 E. New Lenox Rd.; 413-443-2210) and Bartlett’s Orchard, in Richmond, offers late-summer apple picking (413-698-2559).

EAT

In Great Barrington, the French-inflected Bizalion’s is known for its simple menu of crusty baguettes filled with prosciutto, Gruyère, and sweet cornichons (684 Main St.; 413-644-9988; sandwiches from $8). For an early dinner of _shumai _and soba, go to **Bizen Kaiseki **(17 Railroad St.; 413-528-4343; entrées from $7). End the evening the way all good summer evenings should: with ice cream. You can’t go wrong with a scoop of mint chip or mission fig from SoCo Creamery (955 S. Main St.; 413-528-8400).