Ravello: A Breathtaking Bird's Eye View

The Amalfi Coast's villa-lined hills and glistening beaches are beautiful from any angle, but hovering at 2,000 feet, Ravello's view might just take the cake. Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly takes you there.

RAVELLO, Italy – Perched high on a hilltop overlooking the Amalfi Coast sits Ravello, a medieval village full of winding cobblestone streets, fragrant gardens, and breathtaking views of the Mediterranean.

WHAT TO DO

Ravello offers the perfect mix of culture — spectacular churches, villas, and expansive gardens — and complete relaxation in the form of delicious meals and luxurious lodgings with restorative sea views.

Relax
You will automatically dial it down in Ravello, where the day's major decisions tend to revolve around which concert to see or which catch of the day to order for lunch. Give yourself over to wandering the quiet streets and absorbing the art and culture that abounds on literally every street corner.

The view from the gardens of Villa Cimbrone.

An interior shot at Villa Cimbrone.

Explore the Gardens
Don't miss the Villa Cimbrone, a massive open space comprised of lush gardens, fountains, temples, and assorted follies that overlook the sea in the distance. Lovingly restored by an English lord, Villa Cimbrone is a quirky and wonderful place to relax, have a Campari soda, and enjoy an outdoor concert. Gore Vidal once described the panorama here as "the most beautiful in the world." It would be hard to disagree.

Another spot worth visiting is the Villa Rufolo, a centrally-located former watch tower with a massive main tower, an important chapel, and a Moorish cloister with Arabic decorative elements. The piece de resistance is the promontory garden filled with fragrant blossoms that was once beloved by Wagner and is now the site of the famous Ravello music festival.

A detail of the pastel interior at the Duomo in Ravello.

Spa It Up
Several of the town's top-notch hotels offer spa treatments that become even more magical because they are performed outdoors under the shade of blossoming trees or in delicate white tents. Try Palazzo Avino or Hotel Caruso, with its holistic approach, and the truly breathtaking Monastero Santa Rosa in nearby Conca dei Marini for the chic thermal baths.

Go to Church
Ravello's cathedral, built in 1087 and home to one of the most important bronze doors in Italy, is unmissable. Behind the bright white façade is a 14th-century sarcophagus, the chapel of San Pantaleone, that's notable for the glass, gold, and silver ampulla that contains the saint's dried blood that miraculously liquifies each year. (Don't ask.) This just might have been the trip highlight for my kids.

Photo: Courtesy of Le Sirenuse

Visit Nearby Towns
You will be tempted to never leave your hilltop perch, but several towns along the Amalfi Coast are absolutely worth the drive. Positano can get ridiculously crowded, but stop in for a lovely for a lunch at the legendary hotel Le Sirenuse, then take a short stroll down to the port.

My favorite areas, however, were the off-the-beaten-track towns Cetara and Atrani. Both are wonderful for local color, picturesque piazzas, and fantastic seafood restaurants. Acqua Pazza in Cetara is impossible to beat, and A'Paranza in Atrani serves incredibly fresh spaghetti alle vongole by the sea. Be sure to book your tables in advance.

Cathedral of the Apostle Saint Andrew in Amalfi.

Amalfi may be a gritty port town, but it's absolutely worth a visit for the Cathedral of the Apostle Saint Andrew. A mix of romanesque and baroque elements, the cathedral is reached by an imposing staircase and has a colorful facade with glittering gold mosaics. The interiors are no less impressive, with coffered ceilings, a mother of pearl crucifix, and a massive sarcophagus that is just one of the many highlights.

Photos of da Gemma courtesy of the restaurant.

Photos of da Gemma courtesy of the restaurant.

Amalfi brims with sweet white houses, endless terraces, and winding streets full of alleys and small shops. You could spend a whole afternoon exploring La Scuderia del Duca, an incredible boutique full of papers, prints, and etchings, followed by one of the best meals you're likely to eat — in Italy or anywhere — at da Gemma. This was a Michelin-esque surprise, complete with a reinterpretation of the classic Caprese salad, as well as a pleasant terrace setting overlooking the bustling street below.

Ruin and Islands
The fascinating archaeological ruins at Pompei, the Greek temples at Paestum, and the natural beauty of chic Capri and Ischia are all ferry or car rides away.

A detail at Villa Cimbrone.

MANGIARE BENE

Michelin stars abound here, but it was the simpler trattorias and pizzerias that captured my taste buds.

Morning Fuel
The breakfast spread at the Hotel Caruso is simply impossible to beat: house-baked bread, fruits of all kinds, lavender-infused honey, plus fluffy omelets and crispy bacon cooked to order. With the sunny patio setting, there is no reason to venture elsewhere.

Lunch
Of all the meals we ate on this gastronomic power tour, our favorite by far was lunch at the Pool Restaurant at Hotel Caruso. They pride themselves on their wood-fired pizzas — the Vesuvio with fresh rucola and tomatoes was a crowd-pleaser — and invite kids into the process of making these perfectly crusty pies. The substantial salad bar has all sorts of tomatoes, local tuna and langoustines, endless breads, and the freshest gazpacho. It is the whole relaxed feel here — under the Mediterranean pergola, overlooking the infinity pool and the mountains beyond — that makes this spot so special.

Belvedere means "lovely view," and they're not kidding. Photo courtesy of Hotel Caruso.

Dinner
Do not miss a special meal at Belvedere Restaurant, where chef Mimmo de Raffaelle made us feel like royalty with unique appetizers, interesting preparations of classic Neapolitan dishes, and the simplest grilled seafood sampling I've ever tasted. Views of the azure sea, insanely good desserts, and petits fours complete the magical experience.

Cumpà Cosimo
Just off the main piazza (Via Roma 44–46 +39 089 857-156), it's right out of a movie. The family-operated trattoria serves simple food in a relaxed setting overseen by a grandmotherly figure who just screams Italia! — meat from the family butcher, house-made pastas (gnocchi is a standout), and grilled langoustines. All delicious. Jackie O. originally made this one famous, and it is still worth a visit today.

Ristorante Pizzeria Vittoria
If you're craving a simple pizzeria with a relaxed vibe, look no further. Antipasti, lasagna, and endless variations on a pizza. Personal favorite: Ravellese, with cherry tomatoes and zucchini.

Now that's a hotel room. Photo courtesy of Hotel Caruso.

WHERE TO STAY

Hotel Caruso
The best, in my humble opinion. A former 11th-century palace that has been restored to include 48 rooms and suites, many with original architectural details and frescoes. Our room was spacious, with stunning water views and every imaginable amenity. The highlight here, however, is the incredible staff — just the kindest people I've found in any hotel, and incredibly efficient, too. Tip: Don't miss a world-class massage en plein air as well as stroll through the wisteria-laden pergola on your way to the gorgeous infinity pool.

Palazzo Avino
Another beautiful option. This former 12th-century villa houses 18th-century antiques, Frette linens, and the Lobster & Martini Bar, which, as the name implies, serves both of these delicious things as you watch the spectacular sunset.

The view downhill from Ravello.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

I'm not usually one to enlist the help of a travel agent because I prefer to go it alone. But in this instance, I relied on the help of London-based Emily Fitzroy of Bellini Travel. Her exquisite taste and firm command of the intricacies of the Italian transfer (planes, cars, ferries) made our trip seamless. She is truly an expert resource for this part of the world.

Fly: The closest international airport is in Naples Capodichino (CAP), which is roughly one hour by car. (The roads here are unpredictable at best.) Alternately, you can get to Ravello by ferry to Amalfi.

MAP IT

See all the locations mentioned in this story. (Google Maps)

MORE ON FATHOM

Amalfi Coast Guide

A La Turca

A treasure hunt through this Istanbul antiques haven turns up lessons in Ottoman history – along with a glass of cherry wine

Tucked down a side street in Istanbul’s artistic and eclectic Çukurcuma district, in a spectacular 19th-century, four-storey townhouse, is a true treasure trove of Turkish antiques. Brimming with pieces you’re unlikely to find assembled anywhere else, this fascinating emporium feels like the private home of a tasteful collector. Indeed, a visit to A La Turca is an education in Ottoman art history and local lore, not to mention a visual feast, full of exquisite objects that cover every available surface – all lovingly amassed by owner Erkal Aksoy.

Classic Ottoman vintage rose water glasses (€250-€550, top shelf) and Anatolian vintage jars (€350-€750, bottom shelf). | Image: Emre Uzer

Visitors to his store-cum-museum are in for a treat; one that begins with a glass of cherry wine and sweets – perfect sustenance for the hours one can spend exploring the jam-packed floors. “I love sharing my culture and history with my clients, many of whom simply come to browse,” explains Aksoy – and one doesn’t feel any pressure to buy.

Starting in the rug and kilim department that A La Turca is so justly known for, one finds impressive floor-to-ceiling shelves that display a colourful array of some 4,000 carpets (from €800-€18,000), made from either wool or cotton in Turkey’s Konya and Sivas regions. The latter’s kilims are noted for their deep red hues, while simple floral and geometric motifs dominate the entire collection. Aksoy and his assistants are happy to unfurl rug after rug, sharing their knowledge of traditional weaving techniques and ancient textiles.

Ottoman sultan portraits, oil on canvas, from €1,500 | Image: Emre Uzer

In the basement there is a profusion of Turkish pottery – Aksoy’s “true passion” – including green-glazed urns (€350-€4,000), vases (from €450) and assorted Aegean water jugs (€450-€4,000). The upper floors feature beautiful hand-blown glassware in translucent shades of blue (€550-€1,500) – “traditional cheese containers that are buried below ground to age”, explains Aksoy. There are also classic Ottoman vintage rose water glasses (€250-€550, pictured left, top shelf) and Anatolian vintage jars (€350-€750).

Vintage globes, from €1,600 | Image: Emre Uzer

One of A La Turca’s most spectacular spaces houses a collection of antique globes (€1,600-€8,500) that have been gathered from all over the world, and the Ottoman portraits of sultans painted in oils (€1,500-€15,000) that adorn the walls are particularly intriguing. Dotted around are more modern paintings (€350-€3,000), about 50-60 years old and simply framed in gilded wood, while marble vases once used for traditional boza drinks (€500-€5,000), copper statuary (from €350), embroideries (from €1,650), Arabic scrolls (from €750) and enormous custom-made “great tables” (€2,500), which Aksoy commissions from the neighbouring Princes’ Islands, round out the shop’s unique offerings.

However, it is Aksoy himself – with his exacting eye and knowledge – that makes A La Turca a must. As he explains: “I am influenced by the architecture, history and chaotic energy of Istanbul, where the east meets the west.” Prepare to discover a condensed cultural history in objects, cherry-picked by a discerning curator.

A New England hotel with old-school charm

The lavish renovation of a cosy, picturesque inn only adds to its rustic appeal

I am no great fan of change, especially where classic hotels and favourite holiday spots are concerned. So when I learnt about the planned $20m renovation of the beloved Weekapaug Inn in coastal Rhode Island, I groaned. A longtime spot for family reunions and beachy holidays, it was delightfully low-tech (make that no-tech), with an absence of televisions, phones, air-conditioning and just about any other modern amenity in its simple wood-panelled rooms.  

What it always had in spades, however, was incredible charm: a shingle-style main building (perfectly weathered by time), large communal dining tables, croquet games on the expansive lawn and the possibility for endless walks along the picturesque Quonochontaug Pond. In short, it possessed an entirely casual vibe that I was sure would be destroyed – or at least altered – by big city developers or the like.

I’m happy to report – after my recent stay – that the warm ambience of the Weekapaug Inn remains in tact and the entire guest experience has only been enhanced, and in subtle, sophisticated ways. The new inn has 27 guest rooms plus four two-bedroom Signature Suites, all with understated furnishings from the old property as well as newer pieces – sumptuous beds, state-of-the-art bath fixtures. The cosy New England feel thrives. Fenway Cottage is its new, fully-kitted-out fitness and wellness centre, complete with an outdoor 23m heated lap pool (virtually unheard of in this part of the world).

What hasn’t changed one bit is the wonderful white-sand beach, while the views of neighbouring Block Island and Montauk on Long Island remain breathtaking. Sailing on the three-mile “pond” in one of the inn’s restored Beetle Cats – locally made, gaff-rigged 4m wooden boats – is actively encouraged, as is borrowing bicycles to explore the area. A resident naturalist is also on hand to lead anglers to the best saltwater spots, while culinary classes and croquet clinics at its sister property, Ocean House in Watch Hill, are also on offer.

One of the most delightful changes at the inn relates to the food. Meals were always simple and straightforward – think big breakfasts, lunches of local lobster with drawn butter – but new farm-to-table menus offer imaginative interpretations of such New England classics as clam chowder and grilled tuna steak. I love the stone patio for al-fresco dining, but have my eye on the sprawling fireplace for a return trip in cooler months.

Here, at the Weekapaug Inn, I can truly disconnect, read good books, curl up and enjoy the views – it’s simple. It is an old-school hotel in the very best sense, and the makeover is elegant, not tarty. The only thing I worry about now is that this well-kept secret (an hour and a half from Boston, two and half hours from New York City) will spread like wildfire.

Paradise Found: Sugar Beach, St. Lucia

Contributing editor Christina Ohly was on a Goldilocks quest for the sunny holiday getaway that fit perfectly. She found it in St. Lucia.

ST. LUCIA – I am forever in search of the perfect holiday destination. One that provides a bit of sun, offers plenty of activities for a diverse family of four (parents and two tweens), serves delicious yet uncomplicated food, and is serviced by large aircraft and doesn't require intricate changes of planes. I also try to avoid places with too much poolside politicking for chair and room. I don't want to fight for a sun lounger at zero dark hundred, which I've had to do too many times in the Caribbean and Mexico. Lastly (and I swear I'm not high maintenance), I prefer to stay for a shorter time — six or so nights, and not the ten-night minimum generally required at peak holiday times. Yes, it's damn near impossible to find a spot that ticks all the boxes.

I picked Viceroy Hotel's newest resort Sugar Beach (formerly Jalousie Plantation) on a lark after reading about it in an upscale but off-the-radar travel publication because I liked the sound of intimate villas in an informal setting. I was not disappointed. The recent $100 million+ redo has resulted in minimalist, tasteful cottages with plunge pools and all the amenities I've come to rely on (WiFi, flat-screen TVs, AC) as well as charming low-tech touches (ceiling fans and atmospheric mosquito netting canopies that are drawn each night).

Sugar Beach is a completely sybaritic experience. You're waited on hand and foot — and I mean this literally, as guests are driven everywhere in Mule carts. (Mere golf carts wouldn't cut it on the the resort's steep hills.) I'm generally a pretty hearty type, but after one round trip from my room to the beachside restaurant, I got lazy like everyone else and would simply call our butler (every house has a dedicated person on call) on the small mobile phone that they give guests to arrange rides and reservations. This was the first major holiday season for Sugar Beach (read: major crush time), but I was amazed by the friendliness and efficiency of the staff, to say nothing for their ability to whisk everyone around from room to beach to restaurant with never more than a 60-second wait.

The price tag, of course, is not for the faint of heart. But on the plus side, they don't nickel and dime you for things like WiFi, replenishing the drinks in the minibar, endless hours of Kids Club time, and snorkeling/sailing equipment. So while it is extremely expensive, you feel like you get what you pay for — quality fresh food and your every whim attended to, while keeping it all low-key and casual. There's not a lot of pretense, and that's exactly what I look for in a holiday.

In fact, they did everything right. Here's the highlights reel from my week in paradise.

The villa and its plunge pool.

DAY 1 - Decompress

Rest, recover, and enjoy exquisite views of the dramatic Pitons in the distance. Regardless of where you're coming from (direct flights from the UK on British Airways and Virgin; three hours from Miami on American; occasional direct flights from New York on JetBlue), St. Lucia is a haul, and simply sitting once you arrive feels pretty wonderful. Sugar Beach whisks guests from the airport straight to their suites — no check-in or paperwork necessary — where cold drinks and a butler await. I decline the unpacking service as I feel it might take my laziness to a whole other level (though I am totally tempted), but immediately dip into my serene pool to wash away the travel grime.

Bayside Bar.

We head to Bayside, the casual restaurant where you can watch fisherman haul in the catch of day. We devour wood-fired pizzas and ogle international passers-by. (Fathom fan Gywneth Paltrow, rocker Chris Martin, and their adorable kids prove impossible not to watch.) This a pitch-up-in-your-swimsuit kind of place, with terrific roti, sashimi, and assorted Creole specialties. The value-oriented consumer will appreciate the abundant lunchtime salad bar filled with beautiful, locally-sourced vegetables, mountains of marinated shrimp, and ceviche made to order. There is no rush here, and guests are encouraged to relax and listen to live music, even during peak lunch and dinner services.

With all the wonderful eating and lounging, a bit of movement is in order. Sailboats, sea kayaks, paddleboards, and snorkeling gear are all available, and brilliantly colored fish are just a gentle swim off the crescent beach. Full-on scuba trips, remote beach picnics, and water-skiing can be arranged, and the beach personnel are ready to grant your every wish (like cold Diet Coke) at the wave of a flag.

The Great Room, inside and out.

Dinner is in The Great Room in the original grand plantation building, where a more formal menu (chilled organic watermelon gazpacho, roasted snapper, steaks) is served on the sweeping porch. The best thing at the Sugar Beach restaurants is the local fish (mahi mahi, tuna, shellfish galore) served raw, tiradito, roasted, grilled, or barbecued.

Day 2 - Local Color

Days start with a breakfast buffet of local fruits, cereals, and freshly baked breads, eggs made to order, and the New York Times fax. Everything is extremely casual, and my kids loved the freedom to choose chocolate pastries, then wander over to the Kids Club to hang out.

Sugar Beach is wonderful for families. My kids generally bypass organized activities, but the people who run this Kids Club proved irresistible, with scavenger hunts, endless ping pong games, water balloon fights, and archery lessons. They won my MVP award.

The hotel pool, which was never crowded.

The pool is a large, sleek affair that, regardless of the time of day, is usually empty. The pool chairs are tasteful white, minimalist beds, and broad umbrellas allow for peaceful reading. After a morning of relaxing (are you sensing the theme?), we explored the surrounding mountainous rain forest: the drive-in volcano and a rainforest zipline tour. The excursions are a great change of scene and take about 45 minutes. I'm always a fan of local shopping — particularly at grocery stores — but I'd give it a pass here, except for a Saturday morning excursion to the nearby markets in Soufriere.

The drive-in volcano a short drive away.

A treatment room at Rainforest Spa.

Back to Sugar Beach for more pampering at the spectacular Rainforest Spa. Treatments run the gamut from hot rocks and scrubs to Ayurveda and are done in seven rooms suspended amidst the trees. I am generally one for massages and such, but this peaceful setting — and a therapist who taught me all about the island's history and the havoc wreaked by Hurricane Thomas — is unlike any other I've experienced.

Day 3 - In the Groove

Mornings are the best time for tennis (less intense sun, free courts). The kids love Titus, the local pro, so we often hit twice a day. The resort's gym — an air-conditioned house with plenty of equipment, yoga mats, and TVs — is next door and offers total privacy throughout the day. Fitness enthusiasts can take outdoor yoga classes, conditioning workshops, and hikes into the surrounding Pitons.

Another off-campus excursion worth the pricey cab ride takes us to lunch at Ladera, a resort nestled on the hilltop overlooking Sugar Beach. Their restaurant, Dashene, specializes in reinterpretations of traditional St. Lucian dishes made with locally harvested ingredients: jerk poulet sausage, sweet potato and coconut soup, and plantains with delicious rum sauce. This is not a light affair, and the views are spectacular.

Afternoons are spent in Sugar Beach's secluded gazebos or reading in any number of well-placed hammocks. The beachside bar has delicious snacks (fish tacos, pizzettas) and killer caiprinhas, so you can just park it and watch the world go by. People-watching makes for excellent sport on the small but lovely beach. The sand is imported from Ghana and the clientele that hails predominantly from the UK and Europe. I loved this global aspect of Sugar Beach best of all. We met friendly, interesting, and lovely people throughout our stay, and I felt as though we'd been to Europe as well. Bonus!

Cane Bar.

Nights are spent at the on-site restaurants, but I recommend the little-publicized Cane Bar, an impossibly hip new resort add-on with a pool table and ambient house music, for a local Piton beer and terrific sushi. It's also great for cocktails or a late night rendezvous, though I'd be lying f I said I had one of those during my stay.

Days 4-7: Rewind, Replay

The rest of the trip was a variation on a theme. If it's complete and total relaxation you're after, you'll have no choice but to do exactly that at Sugar Beach.

Fifteen back issues of The New Yorker and two novels later, I've never felt so completely Zen.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Fly: Hewannora International Airport (UVF) near Vieux Fort Quarter from Miami is a three-hour flight on American Airlines. JetBlue flies direct from New York (four hours), Delta flies from Atlanta, British Airways and Virgin Airlines fly direct from the UK.

FIND IT

Sugar Beach
Val des Pitons
P.O. Box 251 Soufriere
Saint Lucia, West Indies
+1-758-456-8000
sb.info@viceroyhotelsandresorts.com

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A picture-postcard-perfect New England winter getaway

In Vermont’s Green Mountains, discover hospitality from a bygone era

The first time I visited The Pitcher Inn – with my then boyfriend, some 15-plus years ago – we skidded off the road and ended up embedded in a snow bank. Nevertheless, it was a wonderful weekend and some years later that guy is now my husband and we’ve added two kids to the mix. When we were discussing a New England winter getaway – this time as a group – votes were cast for everything from snowshoeing to skiing off-piste to sitting quietly by a crackling fire, enjoying fine food and a hefty dose of tranquility (my request). The Pitcher Inn, with its porches and gables (second picture), spacious suites and old-world feel, ticked all the boxes – and then some.

In addition to being located in the picture-postcard-perfect Vermont village of Warren, complete with white church spires and a bustling general store, it is just minutes away from the downhill runs at both Mad River Glen and Sugarbush, two of the east coast’s best ski resorts.

After a lengthy drive (Warren is five hours from New York, three from Boston) we arrived late at night to a glowing inn that exuded warmth and charm. Originally a Civil War-era lodging house, the Pitcher Inn has been refashioned by local architect David Sellers, and the old – 19th-century oil lamps, vintage lift booths and toboggans – are seamlessly mixed with state-of-the-art technology and funky (at times) decor. Eleven guest rooms – each with a local theme such as Mountain (third picture), Lodge, or Ski (first picture; all from $325, including breakfast and afternoon tea) – offer vast beds with fine linens and all sorts of entertainments that kept everyone in our group thoroughly amused. Ours was the Ski room and, with its leather couches, vintage artwork and ski gear, not to mention a profusion of rough-hewn wood beams and birch accents, we felt utterly removed from city life.

Add to our luxurious surroundings incredible food and drink, and we’re talking one seriously restorative weekend. There are several dining options but my favourite was the casual Tracks tavern with its scrumptious Maplebrook Farm burrata with crostini ($14) and grilled-to-perfection Niman Ranch Steak with fries and aioli ($18). Despite its remote location, Vermont is a gourmand’s paradise (there’s a profusion of great, locally sourced produce – artisanal bakers, cheesemakers and brewers abound). The fine dining, fire-lit restaurant, 275 Main, was excellent, too. Noted chef Sue Schickler produced indescribably delicious seared sea scallops with a pistachio-English pea salad and lemon beurre blanc ($16) that I shall not soon forget. I won’t drone on about the desserts, but suffice to say, the hand-churned ice creams and pumpkin pot de crème ($10) were beyond compare.

With endless hiking trails, charming antiques shops and challenging slopes all within a hop, skip and a jump, this quintessential New England town has much to offer in any season, though I have a soft spot for a snowy winter stay. Regardless of time of year, what really sets The Pitcher Inn apart is the cheerful Vermonter staff. A visit there feels much like staying at an old friend’s house, albeit in a bygone era.

Skis with a personal angle

European tradition, US tech and custom fitting enhance performance

Winter is coming ever closer, and with it the promise of snowy pistes – and, possibly, new skis. If you’re looking to optimise your performance this season, then now is the time to commission a pair of bespoke Wagner Custom Skis – beautiful designs that are created to your exact specifications using “Skier DNA” software (from about $1,750).

The process is actually quite simple. After filling out a detailed online questionnaire, a member of Wagner’s tech team (and often founder/engineer Pete Wagner himself) gathers further information about each client’s unique goals, his or her body type, strength and agility, as well as riding style and preferred range of terrain and snow conditions. And whether you’re schussing down a French Alp or scaling backcountry peaks in the Rockies, these skis are all created for “overall better balance, comfort and control”, explains Wagner. 

While Wagner’s dream skis involve technological innovations, the basics remain as they have for years. At the heart of each ski is a hardwood core – often North American maple, ash or aspen for lighter models – with bases of the finest, most durable World-Cup-worthy P-tex (a polyethylene that enhances efficient glide) from Switzerland. Skis can be reinforced with Kevlar to protect against rocks and debris, and all edges are crafted from high-strength carbon steel. The structural layers include everything from aerospace-grade fibres to aluminium reinforcements, plus Wagner’s own carbon-fibre torsion box – all designed to reinforce the stiffness of the ski in the most lightweight manner possible. Top sheets are sourced from Austria and clients can choose between a wide variety of finishes, from solid colours to elegant, hand-crafted wood veneers to limitless patterns and graphics.

Arguably the best part of ordering a pair of these sculptural skis is the process of co-creating them with the Wagner team. Besides all being truly passionate about the sport, they’ll fit the bindings and provide personalised direction on the best ski boots and gear. The design process takes approximately three weeks from start to delivery (via FedEx), and satisfaction is guaranteed. After a 30-day trial period, if a customer isn’t happy with the skis, they may be returned and completely rebuilt, or the money refunded.

Wagner Custom Skis are a significant cut above factory-produced models in every way. As Pete Wagner himself says: “Custom equipment helps with power and efficiency, and the benefit is of course enhanced performance. But mostly, it just makes skiing more fun.”

Is Europe's Most Expensive Hotel Room Worth It?

The renovated palazzo that is now the Four Seasons Hotel Firenze is its own great excuse to travel to Italy. Its centerpiece: Europe's most expensive hotel room.

FLORENCE – I've seen a hotel or two in my day — some shabby (not anywhere near chic), some completely fabulous — but nothing could've prepared me for my recent stay at the Four Seasons Hotel Firenze, a renovated palazzo in the heart of the Renaissance city.

Opened just three years ago, the property is unlike any other chain hotel I've ever visited. In the first place, it is a magnificent museum in and of itself. The 500+ year-old Palazzo della Gherardesca has been lovingly restored — right down to the original frescoed ceilings and on-site chapel — by the local Fratini family, who are often seen around the hotel on Sundays.

The rooms are, of course, lovely throughout, with elegant Pedersoli linens, views overlooking eight acres of gardens. There's even a 16th-century conventino nearby. But the ultimate accommodation — by many accounts, the most expensive room in Europe — is the breathtaking Royal Suite, which runs a mere 18,500€ per night. It's a baroque explosion of vaulted ceilings, endless rooms, and gilding galore. Add to this an original ceramic floor by Ignazio Chiaiese, and you could be forgiven for thinking you were a long-lost Medici in this stunning perch. The Royal Suite conveniently connects to the grand Presidential Suite next door. The ultimate house party — with park vistas and Michelin-starred room service — is only hundreds of thousands of dollars away.

The Four Seasons Florence is a little oasis in an otherwise cobblestoned, urban setting. Lunch by the pool (yes, a pool in the middle of Florence!) is a welcome respite from sun and all those church and museum visits. And while I am not usually a fan of hotel brunches — especially in towns with wonderful trattorias — the brunch at Il Palagio is not to be missed. Reservations must be made well in advance because it's usually packed with — get this! — real Florentine families there for the buzzing atmosphere and unbelievably good food. Platters of shellfish, cheeses, made-to-order pastas, and chef Vito Mallica's signature soft-cooked egg with citrus, bottarga, capers, and Tuscan olive oil make brunch an hours-long, memory-making affair. 

But I'm not finished gushing. About the grand L'Orangerie lobby lounge and soaring spaces. About how history mixes with modern tech and bath amenities. I still marvel that anyone took on such a massive renovation, and that it was executed so beautifully, down to every last stucco'd detail. There's only one drawback to staying here. You might have to drag yourself out to see the Duomo.

FIND IT

Four Seasons Hotel Firenze
Borgo Pinti, 99
50121 Firenze, Italy 
+39-055-26261

U.S. Road Trips: The South

Roadside diners, Blue Ridge mountains, Main Street, biscuits, banjos, and more. With the help of friends and admired travelers, we compiled a list of weekend road trip destinations in the southern United States. Are we there yet?

FLORIDA

Photo courtesy of Casa Monica.

Head to St. Augustine

If you're in the mood for a historic, laid-back beach town with an artists' colony vibe.
Route to take: I-95 to the Jacksonville Beaches, then scenic A1A down the coast.
Good to know: Grab lunch at the famous Columbia Restaurant, and shop for ceramics at Market to Market on historic St. George Street. Casa Monica Hotel is right in the center of the action, and those trolley tours are worth a spin, too.

GEORGIA

Photo courtesy of Serenbe.

Head to Palmetto Springs

If you're in the mood for a weekend romp in the woods.
Route to take: I-85 south from Atlanta.
Good to know: Serenbe is a sustainable farming community and inn nestled just outside the city limits, with incredible on-site dining dens The Hil and The Farmhouse.
Read more on Fathom: Love Letter to Serenbe

Head to Savannah

If you're in the mood for a little history with your Georgia peach. Take a history-filled bike tour with Savannah Slow Ride, then nosh on fried green tomatoes and candied bacon at The Olde Pink House, a mandatory stop for old-school Southern indulgence, with jazz in the historic basement bar. Stop into Rocks on the Roof for killer views (and rose) and Moon River Brewing Company for beer tastings.
Route to take: Don't miss the peach stands on the four-hour drive from Atlanta.
Good to know: Alex Raskin Antiques (441 Bull St.; +912-232-8205) houses hundreds of antiques in an essentially untouched mansion.
Read more on Fathom: An Unforgettable Group Trip in 8 Steps

KENTUCKY

Cherokee Park, Kentucky. Photo by Jessica Dillree / Flickr.

Head to Lexington

If you're in the mood for horses and bourbon. Spend a day at the track: Keeneland is a racecourse famous for the Bluegrass Stake, whose winner advances to the Kentucky Derby. Dress to impress, but save your hat for the Derby. Visit Pepper Campus, an industrial patch of land revitalized by trendy breweries, restaurants, and ice cream shops, but save room for dinner at Middle Fork Kitchen Bar.
Route to take: If you don't mind taking a little detour, head northwest from Nashville and drive through Daniel Boone National Forest before turning northeast toward Lexington.
Good to know: For real-deal Kentucky fried chicken, go to Indi's Fast Food Restaurant.
Read more on Fathom: Bourbon for Breakfast. Playing the Ponies at Lunch. Fried Chicken for the Plane Ride Home.

NORTH CAROLINA

Photo courtesy of Cucina 24.

Head to Asheville

If you're in the mood for stunning mountains, music, and eats. A perfect evening involves a nibble at Cucina 24 followed by live music at The Orange Peel. Wedge Brewery down by the railroad tracks is the best in town.
Route to take: Anything that passes through the Blue Ridge mountains. Bonus points if you make a stop along Virginia's Crooked Road heritage trail (banjo optional).
Good to know: Flex your artsy muscles at Penland School of Crafts.
Read more on Fathom: A Sweet and Smoky Food Tour of Asheville

Head to the Appalachian Forests

If you're in the mood for scenic mountainscapes across three states. Late June brings the blooming of Roan Mountain's rhododendrons. September brings stunning hues of deciduous leaves.
Route to take: Start just north of Asheville. Zip-line through the leafy canopy at Navitat; later, stretch your legs with a hike off Route 143 in Roan Mountain State Park. Don't miss a homemade Southern-style breakfast at Early Girl Eatery and a local brew at Barley's Taproom — Asheville was voted America's Beer City for the fourth year running. Drive through Roan Mountain State Park, straddling the NC-TN border.
Good to know: Bristol's main drag, State Street, has the distinction of falling along the Virginia-Tennessee border. Great burgers can be found at Burger Bar, a local institution since 1942.

Head to Wrightsville Beach

If you're in the mood for boogie boarding and flip-flops.
Route to take: Zip down from Raleigh (two hours).
Good to know: There are 44 public access points along the stretch of Wrightsville and four public parking lots with restrooms. Amenities like public volleyball nets, Vito's Pizzeria, and Rita's Water Ice are clustered around Johnnie Mercer's Pier, as are slightly bigger crowds.
Read more on Fathom: Wrightsville Beach itinerary

SOUTH CAROLINA

Photo courtesy of The Vendue.

Head to Charleston

If you're in the mood for a culinary hotbed in the prettiest Southern town. Drop off your bags at historic Planters Inn, Fulton Lane Inn, or John Rutledge House Inn. If love is in the air, check into The Vendue (one of Fathom's Most Romantic Hotels in the USA).
Route to take: After your city fix, drive for an hour to Kiawah Island, a stunning nature preserve.
Good to know: Book tables at Husk, F.I.G., The Macintosh, The Grocery, and Butcher & Bee.
Read more on Fathom: Charleston Guide

TENNESSEE

Photo courtesy of Warehouse Row.

Head to Chattanooga

If you're in the mood for Southern-style cool. Check out the chic Bluff View Art District's cafes, historic buildings, and galleries. Warehouse Row has recently become a haven for shopping, dining, and strolling.
Route to take: It's about 130 miles (or a two-and-a-half hour drive) southeast of Nashville. You can zip down I-24. If you've got a boat, you can make a grand entrance via the Tennessee River.
Good to know: Bluff View Inn has beautifully appointed rooms in three restored turn-of-the-century homes. There's a free shuttle line to help you get around the district.
Read more on Fathom: Where to Go from Nashville

Head to East Tennessee

If you're in the mood for The Great Smokies, bluegrass, and country kitsch.
Route to take: The one that leads you to Dolly's homeland.
Good to know: Hike Mount Lecont and rest your toes at Leconte Lodge. Take a spin around Dollywood during the day (your visit earns you lifelong music street cred) for rides and bluegrass music a plenty. Dine in a log cabin at Greenbrier Restaurant at night or splurge on an unforgettable meal at Blackberry Farm.

Head to Leiper's Fork

If you're in the mood for a funky little country town.
Route to take: Drive 30 minutes south of Nashville on the heavily wooded, historic Natchez Trace Parkway.
Good to know: Drop by Serenite Maison to scout antiques. Have lunch at Puckett's Grocery, a meat-and-three with nightly live music. Pick up provisions at Joe Natural's Farm Store and Cafe.
Read more on Fathom: Nashville Guide

TEXAS

A historic house from 1861 in Jefferson, Texas. Photo courtesy of The Grove.

Head to Jefferson

If you're in the mood for antiques and good old-fashioned biker bars.
Route to take: Just west of Texarkana, the 59 leads you in from points North or South and the 49 from the west.
Good to know: Auntie Skinner's Riverboat Club serves up the fried pickles while Allman Brothers cover bands play. The people watching can't be beat. Stay at a Victorian B&B like The Benefield House and antique your heart out at the dozens of shops on Austin Street.

Head to San Antonio

If you're in the mood for a vibrant city with a colorful history and strong culinary scene. Check into the newly opened Roman and Williams-designed Hotel Emma. Built inside an old brewhouse, the industrial-chic hotel is part of a larger cultural village on the site of what was formerly the Pearl Brewery. Dress the part in a custom-made guayabera from Dos Carolinas. (Designer Caroline Matthews is also responsible for the light blue seersucker robes at Hotel Emma.) The local food scene is top-notch: Start with globally inspired barbecue and craft beers at The Granary.
Route to take: Drive down I-35E S and I-35 S for four and half hours until you hit San Antonio.
Good to know: Skip the state's most famous battle site and spend your last day floating down the Guadalupe River with an Alamo Golden Ale in hand.

Head to Austin

If you're in the mood for hip indie hotspots alongside old-school mainstays. Stroll down South Congress Avenue and end up at Continental Club for some of the best live music Austin is so famous for. Stay for dinner at the Dart Bowl Cafe for bowling and the best enchiladas of your life. Check out the landmark Driskill Hotel and feel like a cattle baron among the cowhides and sultry music.
Route to take: Take I-35 North from San Antonio, or if you're coming from Dallas on I-35 South, stop at Lake Austin Spa Resort, a luxurious retreat just 40 minutes from downtown Austin.
Good to know: If you're feeling artsy, head to East Austin, which has managed to retain roots in art and the local community.
Read more on Fathom: Everything Old Is Cool in Austin

VIRGINIA

Ah, country life! Photo courtesy of Red Fox Inn.

Head to Middleburg

If you're in the mood for a romantic weekend with a backdrop of rolling green hills and grazing horses.
Route to take: Drive a little over an hour on Route 50 east of Washington, D.C. The charming Red Fox Inn was established in 1728 and has been visited by historical greats like George Washington, John F. Kennedy, and Elizabeth Taylor. Try The Goodstone Inn & Estate Restaurant for farm-to-table French cuisine sourced from the onsite organic herb and vegetable gardens.
Good to know: With a glass of RdV Vineyards' 2010 Lost Mountain (a cabernet sauvignon and merlot blend) at the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. The intimate winery accepts tastings by appointment only, so book in advance.

Head to Sperryville

If you're in the mood for scenic hikes and truly stellar meals.
Route to take: The 72-mile drive takes approximately two hours by car. Don't miss the scenic Skyline Drive that winds through the Shenandoah National Park and features waterfalls and starry skies. Chef Patrick O'Connell at The Inn at Little Washington oversees one of the world's only double five-diamond establishments where chawanmushi (warm, local duck egg "tea cup" custard with ginger-scented Asian tea) and carpaccio of herb-crusted baby lamb loin are the orders of the day. Once in a blissful food coma, repair to one of the historic Relais & Chateaux's sumptuous suites and take in the garden views. Bring someone special: The Inn is one of Fathom's Most Romantic Hotels in The South.)
Good to know: Check out will be depressing, so stock up at the Inn's Tavern Shop where chef O'Connell has selected exquisite kitchen items, including Laguiole knives and artisanal cheeses.

MORE FATHOM-APPROVED GETAWAYS

Have you seen our list of the Most Romantic Hotels in The South?

Special thanks to contributors Tiffany Davis, Becca Dollan, Kate Donnelly, Brooke Lewy, Laura Siciliano Rosen/Eat Your World, Beth Silverman, Caitlyn Slivinski, Christina Ohly, Kim VanderVoort.

Ten Best London Family Hotels

Get Your Bearings

The best family-friendly hotels are typically found in South London, which has abundant green spaces and green grocers and is close to tourist attractions. Central London is pricier, but also close to attractions. North London is slim pickings. Here are our parent- and kid-approved favorites.

South London

The Berkeley
32a Wilton Place, Knightsbridge, SW1X 7RL; +44-20-7235-6000
It has a rooftop pool. Enough said. And it's near Hyde Park, Harrods, and Yo Sushi! at the top of Harvey Nichols.

Knightsbridge Hotel 
10 Beaufort Gardens, Knightsbridge, SW3 1PT; +44-20-7584-6300
One of the Firmdale hotels on a quiet square steps from Brompton Road, Hyde Park, and Beauchamp Place. Bonus points for the life-saving Pizza Express nearby.

The Milestone Hotel
Kids will love the pomp and circumstance - porters in top hats, high tea in the overly chintzy dining room - at this Kensington classic.  Hyde Park, the Natural History Museum, and the hotel's subterranean, small pool are all welcome escapes on the occasional hot, summer day. Don't miss the comprehensive breakfast spread at Cheneston's where proper sausages, "soldiers" and baked tomatoes are served in a particularly English setting.

The Baglioni Hotel
This elegant property sits opposite Kensington Palace and puts you in striking distance to the Princess Diana Playground, Buckingham Palace, and the kid-centric Science Museum, as well as the mega Whole Foods on Kensington High Street.  Enjoy the breakfast feast on the patio and head across the street to Wagamama for lunches of family-friendly ramen served at communal tables. Spacious second floor suites with separate sitting areas and park views are ideal for families.

Breakfast at The Baglioni. Photo courtesy of The Baglioni Hotel.

Central London

The Arch
Great Cumberland Place, Marylebone, W1H 7FD; +44-20-7724-4700
An 82-room boutique hotel perfect for exploring the shops of Bond and Regent Streets as well as the London Zoo in beautiful Regents Park. Even better, it's very affordable, especially considering the neighborhood. Kids will love burgers in the lobby Brasserie or afternoon tea in the library at this modern, somewhat hidden gem (which you'd call a "bolthole" if you were trying to be British about it).

The Athanaeum 
116 Piccadilly, W1J 7BJ; +44-20-7499-3464
A family-owned hotel sandwiched between Hyde Park and Green Park and known for it's family-friendliness, down to the special kid's concierge and nannies on staff. The hotel will stock your room or apartment with kids' favorite drinks. Age-appropriate diversions range from kites, bikes, and frisbees to movies and PlayStations. For infants, organic baby food, Baby Einstein DVDs, and disposable diapers are all available.

The pool at The Berkeley Hotel.

Four Seasons London at Park Lane
Hamilton Place, Mayfair, W1J 7DR; +44-20-7499-0888
When it comes to kids, few do it better than the Four Seasons, and this newly refurbished hotel is no exception. Perfectly located near Hyde Park, kids will love the ease of access to playgrounds, ponds, and paddle boats in warmer months. Winter Wonderland, a cheesy and terrific London highlight filled with games, rides, and general holiday cheer, runs from November to January and is literally across the street. The top-notch concierges can arrange everything from horseback rides to proper high tea complete with cucumber sandwiches and sweet scones with clotted cream.

The Corinthia
Whitehall Place, Charing Cross, SW1A 2BD; +44-20-7321-3000
Well located near Trafalgar Square and Covent Garden, this grand (almost ridiculously so) new hotel is great for exploring The Crown Jewels at Tower of London, The London Eye, and a truly terrific Aquarium. River suites offer separate spacious sitting rooms as well as sweeping views of the Thames. With more than four restaurants to choose from, kids and their discerning parents can feast on everything from Cumbrian beef burgers and crisp chips at The Northall to fresh shellfish at Massimo Oyster Bar.

Photo courtesy of The Corinthia London.

North London

London Marriot Hotel Maida Vale 
Plaza Parade, Maida Vale, NW6 5RP; +44-20-7543-2100
Location, location, location. This one isn't full of charm, but it is perfectly placed for exploring the charming shops and restaurants of this North London area. Don't miss nearby Little Venice, an area full of houseboats and local color. If you're looking for more true Brit, Lord's Cricket Ground is just down the street.

St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel London
Euston Road, Kings Cross, NW1 2AR; +44-20-7841-3540
After a decade-long renovation, this massive Victorian gem has great family accommodations. High ceilings and ornate moldings recall the past; free WiFi and spacious rooms are modern comforts. Bonus points for the subterranean swimming pool and the fact that you're literally seconds from the Eurostar which departs from St. Pancras Station. It's a Marriott, which means you can use your miles on the rates. Just know that rooms in the older building are superior to those in the new wing.

More Affordable Options

MyHotel Chelsea
35 Ixworth Place, Chelsea, SW3 3QX; +44-20-7225-7500
Slightly mod, low-key, and absolutely well-placed near Chelsea Green. A delicious breakfast spread, proximity to great restaurants for kids (conveyor belt sushi at Itsu, perfect steak frites at La Brasserie), and St. Luke's playground are all pluses.

The Sloane Square Hotel
7-12 Sloane Square, Chelsea, SW1W 8EG; +44-20-7896-9988 
This one has family rooms — a rarity in the UK and Europe — where four can fit semi-comfortably. Well-situated to Peter Jones (department store where you'll inevitably end up after having forgotten some key piece of equipment) and the King's Road. Proximity to the Duke of Yorks Square add to the appeal.

The Royal Garden Hotel
What it lacks in charm, it more than makes up for with its killer location on Hyde Park and sleekly appointed rooms.  One of the more modern hotels in this residential area, it offers rooms designed for families (interconnecting options, larger suites) as well as the top floor Min Jiang restaurant.  With enormous, panoramic views overlooking the park and excellent dim sum and craft cocktails, the restaurant alone is worth a detour.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Find restaurants, shops, itineraries, and things to do in our London Guide.

MAP IT

See all the hotels mentioned in this story. (Google Maps)

BUT WAIT, MORE FAMILY TRAVEL IN LONDON 

Three Days in London with the Kids
Classics and Royals

Just Back From: Prague

Just back from: Prague, Czech Republic.

Was it your first time? Yes.

How long were you there? 36 hours.

Why did you go? I've always wanted to see this city of castles and gothic churches, and since I'm living in London, it was an easy time to visit. The flight time is less than two hours.

Who were you with? My 9-year-old daughter, Kate. She is the most curious, easy-going traveler ever.

What was the best tip you got before you left? I had been warned me about trying to visit Charles Bridge during crowded daytime hours when everything is jammed with vendors and tourists. We took an after-dinner stroll instead. It was calm, and the fairytale castle was twinkling in the distance. The second tip came from a Trip Advisor post warning that cobblestone streets are hellish on the feet, especially in the colder winter months. So we packed thick, rubber-soled shoes, and that made a huge difference.

What's the #1 tip you'd give to a friend who wanted to go? Stay at the Four Seasons Prague. It's perfectly situated for exploring the New and Old Towns, the Prague Castle, Old Town Square, and Wenceslas Square. They also completely get kids: Those in-room amenities go a long way. (My daughter is a sucker for a robe, slippers, and colored bath tints.) Oh, and bring comfortable walking shoes for sure. Those cobblestones are everywhere.

What did you do: We knocked it out in a day. First stop was the castle complex to visit the Royal Palace, the Monastery, and St. Vitus Cathedral, which has stunning stained glass windows. Then a bit of light shopping — puppets, postcards — followed by a delicious lunch at Pizzeria Rugantino. Arugula salad and prosciutto have never looked so good. Our afternoon was spent climbing the Old Tower Bridge for views of the city (this is vertigo-inducing), crossing the Charles Bridge, exploring the Jewish Quarter, and the Old Town Square. After watching the gorgeous Astronomical Clock ring, we enjoyed strudel (the local specialty) and coffee in one of the cafes along the square. After relaxing at the hotel (read: bad TV, a wonderful bath, and teatime), we headed to a festive dinner at Barock, complete with a slightly cheesy piano player. Lovely view across the street to the Jewish synagogue and cheerful service, too.

Were you there for the right amount of time? I tend to have a short attention span, so 36 hours anywhere works well for me. I would, however, love to see Prague in summer when everything is in full flower, so maybe I'll make it a whole weekend next time.

This was especially great: The castle complex at night is pretty spectacular, especially with a light dusting of snow. Think Anna Karenina meets DisneyWorld.

But this wasn't: The food, generally speaking. I had flashbacks to Russia: not too many vegetables, lots of fried things, beef goulash at every turn. My only other gripe was that there are few crosswalks, and getting slammed by a high-speed tram is a very real possibility.

Speed round of favorites.
1. Meal: Tough one. Barock is as much of a scene as Prague has to offer, and their mix of incredibly fresh sushi, typical Czech dishes, and meat was good. Any restaurant with the tagline "delicious meal and beautiful women" is going to be a hoot.

2. Neighborhood: The Jewish Quarter.

3. Site: The baroque splendor of St. Nicholas Church.

4. Café: Café Mistral. Near the hotel and perfect for a light meal and a glass of wine.

Kodak moment: Snow falling around the Old Town Square as we watched the Astronomical Clock — with its procession of the twelve apostles — ring out on the hour.

Thing you didn't get to visit: The Christmas Markets are meant to be wonderful, so I'd like to return for that sometime. The beer gardens are also supposed to be festive and fun during the summer. But next time I am going to check out The Augustine, a Rocco Forte hotel in a former monastery that still has an order of friars living on-site. Apparently, they will take you for tours around the libraries, cloister, and church.

What did you bring back? The Czech Republic is the land of marionettes, so we brought back a spectacular Pippi Longstocking puppet for Kate's room. We scored a matryoshka doll set of the LA Lakers for my son — handmade in Prague and featuring all of the players (Kobe Bryant, Lamar Odom) in one case. The perfect mix of Americana and local color!

Would you go back? Definitely.

Any surprises? It was much smaller and more walkable than I had imagined. It was also architecturally beautiful throughout — not just the famous sights. Even the offices and apartment building are spectacular in that Parisian way. I was surprised at the weird US brands that kept cropping up — TGIFridays and Hooters seem remarkably out of place amidst all the medieval, romanesque, and gothic beauty. I was also pleasantly surprised by the customs procedure at the airport — or the lack of it. No landing cards, only a cursory glance at passports, and just a big smile from the agent. Not exactly a JFK experience!

I can't stop thinking about: The spectacular view from my bed, overlooking the Vlatava River with Prague Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral in the distance.

FIND IT

Four Seasons Prague
Veleslavínova 1098/2a
110 00 Prague 1-Old Town, Czech Republic
+420-221-427-000

MAP IT

See the locations mentioned in this story. (Google Maps)

Custom fly-fishing rods that will delight any angler

A US craftsman who produces sought-after bamboo fishing rods

Bill Oyster works from a tiny shop in the mountains of Georgia, in the United States. He is an angler and an artisan, self-taught in both skills, who crafts some 65 custom fly-fishing rods each year (examples in first picture). He’s responsible for every detail, right down to meticulously engraving the nickel-silver hardware.

“Custom work makes the rod a very personal thing, and also allows me to push my own abilities in an attempt to realise my customer’s vision,” explains Oyster. Wives, husbands and friends call to commission these special poles, which can be used to fish for everything from trout to heavier steelhead salmon.

Starting with basic information about the client’s fishing style – where the rod will be used, how often, for what kind of fish – Oyster begins the process of engineering a fly rod in the appropriate weight range that is both functional and truly beautiful. Each one starts existence as a raw stalk of bamboo cane that is split, planed down and pieced back together to form a hexagonal shape. From there it is outfitted with a top-of-the-line English Hardy reel, and an exquisite rattan grip. Finally, embellishments are added, often very personal, that take the form of deep-relief and bulino (very fine) engravings in the silver details that are specific to the client’s wishes (example in second picture). Oyster, who learned this skill from a gunsmith, takes particular pride in bringing everything from family crests to hunting scenes to favourite dogs to life.

Each rod requires between 40 and 100 hours of labour, and commissions generally take about six months, depending on the complexity and level of detail. In addition to custom orders, there are also several pre-made models available for sale, but they tend to get snapped up very quickly. The most basic is the Signature Series ($1,840) – a three-piece, extra tip version available in a range of sizes and weights. At the other end of the tricked-out spectrum is the Epic Series (from $9,049), featuring everything from a hand-engraved downlocking reel seat to bulino game scenes to a handmade and very elegant leather carrying case for the whole package.

So special are these American beauties that heads of state and anglers from around the globe vie for a place on Oyster’s waiting list (rods are made on a first-come basis and can cost up to $15,000). And what sets Bill Oyster’s fast fly rods apart is not just aesthetics, but the pleasure of the process as well; he’s cited by one and all as a delight to work with from start to finish.

A museum shop full of marvellous miscellany

Quirky and classical gifts, with the imprimatur of an English tastemaker

If you’ve ever been to the spectacularly eclectic house-collection that is Sir John Soane’s Museum in central London, then you know it is a gem of Regency art and architecture. Its gift shop is no less wonderful, but as the part of the complex that houses it is undergoing a major renovation, the museum’s eclectic e-boutique is your best bet for finding fascinating books, objets d’art and curiosities of all kinds.

The site is clearly divided into 11 well-edited sections that make navigation a breeze. Start in the Books area, where museum director Tim Knox’s beautiful coffee-table tome, Sir John Soane’s Museum London (second picture, £24.95), offers an extensive history of the collection, complete with stunning photographs by Derry Moore. There are all kinds of paper goods – a Leporello three-dimensional cut-out card (£5.95), standard greeting cards and postcards – as well as a Piranesi notebook (8.50) for sketching.

In Kitchen & Home you’ll find a rather unexpected selection of tea towels, including one depicting the dark Mephistopheles by Eugène Delacroix (£5.50) that could certainly take the prize for most unique – if not also most ghoulish – gift. Another intriguing item is the Tea Tidy (third picture, £4.50) with an image of a skull from The Grave by Louis Schiavonetti after William Blake. While they won’t be to everyone’s taste, they are definitely original.

The real beauty here, however, lies in objects such as a plaster replica model of The Temple of Vesta at Tivoli (available in March, first picture, £1,250). This copy of Francois Fouquet’s original by Bath-based artist Timothy Richards features a glass dome and a mahogany base – and it will be delivered to your door, complete with gorgeous packaging. For the jewellery lover, the Soane site offers a unique collection of Extasia hand-pressed cameo and intaglio necklaces (£95-220) that incorporate jet, black diamond, and slate-coloured German glass, all hung on stylishly chunky chains.

It’s a treasure trove of unexpected delights – the perfect match for the museum whose name it shares.

Just Back From: Dominican Republic

Just back from: Casa Colonial, Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic.

Was it your first time? Yes.

How long were you there? Six days.

Why did you go? We wanted to try something different in the Caribbean that had multiple flights daily and easy access from New York and Florida. We also wanted something for just six days, as opposed to the typical ten-day mandatory stay at holiday time. Casa Colonial was completely flexible about our length of stay.

Who were you with? My family (husband and two kids) and my parents.

What was the best tip you got before you left? My dental hygienist warned me not to go off-campus in this part of the DR. Sage advice. While not dangerous, it also wasn't too atmospheric outside of the hotel grounds.

What's the #1 tip you'd give a friend who wanted to go? Don't go off-campus, but do make a trip to the massive supermercado to score everything from snacks to Zithromax on aisle 1. The whole experience is just crazy and worth the trip. Note: You have to bring ID to buy anything with credit or debit cards. They check.

What did you do? We ate every meal outside and, in between, lounged on minimalist, tasteful loungers at the second-floor pool overlooking the ocean. This was interpersed with golf, tennis, a snorkeling trip, visits to the gym (the treadmills had CNN on loop), lots of reading, card playing, and just generally catching up with one another. Really interesting clientele at Casa Colonial — largely gay, a few older kids, and nary a person from the New York tri-state area. All in, refreshingly low-key.

Were you there for the right amount of time? Possibly a day too long. We tend to max out at five days of strong sun, but it was a great break nonetheless.

This was especially great: The service at the hotel. Everyone — from the waiters to the housekeepers to the concierge — tries really, really hard to please. Beds are made first thing in the morning; everyone smiles. Sometimes they misfire, but I'm all about an A for effort. Casa Colonial wants to keep customers happy, and the staff was terrific with my 9- and 10-year-old and worked with them on their Spanish words.

But this wasn't: Local vendors practically accost you on the beach selling everything from booze to jewelry to hair-braiding services.

Speed round of favorites:
Meal: Grilled local lobster tail in the main restaurant, Lucia.

Neighborhood to explore: N/a. Don't do it.

Thing you did: That supermarket comes pretty close. Weird, plentiful, serious local color.

Casual hangout: Lunch by the pool. Just six shaded tables with the best chopped salad I've had since the Ivy in LA.

Kodak moment: My kids on Christmas morning, opening their stockings.

One place you didn't get to visit, but wanted to: The fruit market. A massive outdoor labrynth/bazaar of fruit and vegetables. That and Ocean World, a massive, tacky water park that I'm sure my kids would've loved.

What did you bring back? Zithromax. And keychains for my kids.

Would you go back? Probably not as we like to mix it up and try new things. But Casa Colonial is an easy long weekend trip from New York City, so maybe sans kids sometime.

Any surprises? Lots of them. I had no idea about the geography/topography of the island. The sugar cane plantations were interesting to see, and I was especially struck by how massive and densely populated the island is. I was surprised that I didn't want to explore more — I usually love to shop and get out a bit —  but this trip I was fine with relaxing and planting myself by the pool (this is actually unheard of for me). Lastly, I was surprised by the friendliness of the staff who kept drinks filled, printed our boarding passes, and didn't tell on me when I let my kids come into the tiny gym with me (generally taboo).

You can't stop thinking about: That chopped salad with the fried onion rings on top. Delicious! And just eating three meals a day as a family and really talking. This so rarely happens at home.

FIND IT

Casa Colonial Beach and Spa
Playa Dorada
Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic
+1-809-320-3232

Three Days in London with the Kids

Contributing editor Christina Ohly has been traveling to London with her kids since they were infants. She knows how to mix parent- and kid-approved museums, shops, restaurants, and hotels.

LONDON – London is one of the — if not the best — cities to visit with kids. Here are highlights for all ages, palates, and interests, with South London as a base for exploring central London and the outskirts.

DAY 1 - Science and Nature

Gone are the days of exploring the Elgin Marbles at a leisurely pace, so don't even pretend. Keep your museum visits real by starting in South Kensington at the incomparable Science Museum, which is full of interactive exhibits, steam turbines, space capsules, and the most imaginative water play area ever.

Next, head down the block to the Natural History Museum, an architectural marvel in and of itself. Children will never tire of the dinosaurs, and the endless diamonds are a nice diversion for grown-ups. Refuel nearby at Wagamama, where udon noodles, soups, and the requisite "chicken tenders" are served at festive communal tables in a light, airy setting.

After a little sustenance, go into Kensington Gardens and follow signs to the Princess Diana Memorial Playground. The enclosed area is great for kids of all ages, with everything from baby swings to a massive pirate ship with rope ladders and secret hiding places. Cool off with a soft-serve cone within the playground before exploring the rest of heavenly Hyde Park by bicycle or on foot. (The English really do excel at public gardens.) Swans, geese, and ducks provide entertainment, and you can rent old-timey lawn chairs for the balance of the afternoon. If energy/attention spans allow, pop into the Serpentine Gallery mid park for a quick shot of contemporary art in a classical setting.

DAY 2 - Toys and Museums

Sometimes with kids you just need to go with it. Legoland in nearby Windsor is one such example. Your kids will love you and they will be re-energinized for all the cultural events you'll throw at them for the rest of your journey. The incredibly fun park is a hit with ages 3+, and, at just 40 minutes from London, you can pack quite a few rides, sweet treats, and general amusement into a half-day.

Once back in the city center, head to the Tower of London for its rich history of beefeaters, guillotines, dark prisons, and the Crown Jewels. It gets crowded, so visit at off-peak to avoid the masses and pre-order tickets. From here, you're across the river from the Embankment and the Tate Britain and the Tate Modern museums. Depending on the show, I've found the Modern, which is housed in an enormous former factory, is more kid-centric. The sheer spaces, enormous escalators, and colorful art installations will captivate virtually everyone, and a snack overlooking the river in the ground floor cafe is a plus.

DAY 3 - Gardens and Shops

The best parts of London for kids are parks, playgrounds, and wonderful restaurants. Very small children will enjoy a quiet romp in St. Luke's playground in Chelsea and everyone will love a tour through the Chelsea Physic Garden, one of London's oldest botanic gardens. For lunch, have wood-fired pizzas outdoors at the Chelsea Gardener if weather permits or fish and chips indoors at Tom's Kitchen at Chelsea Green. Other Chelsea highlights include the grounds of the Royal Hospital for running free and the National Army Museum, which has an interactive, indoor play space. (For more info, read the Fathom Postcard about the pensioners at the Royal Hospital.)

No trip would be complete without a visit to the sprawling toy shop spread across an entire floor at Harrod's. You'll find everything from Union Jack memorabilia to Barbies to wooden building blocks. Spend the rest of the day soaking in local, small neighborhood color: the bakeries, the butcher, the "ironmonger" (aka the hardware store). Have a light supper at Itsu, where kids delight in picking tapas-style sushi plates from a conveyor belt: chicken teriyaki skewers, sashimi, white chocolate mousse and berries. The techno-vibe makes for the perfect mix of food and theater.

BEST FAMILY HOTELS

I am no fan of central London hotels with kids (unless you're living large and want to load it up at Claridge's). I prefer one of these quiet, kid-friendly establishments with green spaces and green grocers nearby.

MyHotel Chelsea - Slightly mod, low-key, and absolutely well-placed near Chelsea Green.

The Baglioni Hotel - It overlooks Kensington Palace and Gardens which makes it perfect for families - and anyone in search of green space. The incomparably cool Princess Diana playground is just steps away, and the hotel's newly redone Natura Bisse spa makes for a Zen escape at day's end. Spacious suites and Italian warmth and hospitality are all pluses. 

Milestone Hotel - Hyde Park is your backyard when staying in one of the spacious suites and quirky, chintz-filled apartments on on Kensington High Street. It works well for families and the Stables Bar, a cozy clubhouse restaurant straight out of a Ralph Lauren ad, serves excellent Wagyu burgers with buckets of crispy fries. 

Knightsbridge Hotel - One of the Firmdale hotels on a quiet square steps from Brompton Road, Hyde Park, and Beauchamp Place. (Having a Pizza Express nearby is always a plus.)

The Berkeley - It has a rooftop pool. Enough said. And it's near Hyde Park, Harrods, and Yo Sushi! at the top of Harvey Nichols.

The Sloane Square Hotel - This one has family rooms — a rarity in the UK and Europe — where four can fit semi-comfortably. Well-situated to Peter Jones (department store where you'll inevitably end up after having forgotten some key piece of equipment) and the King's Road. Proximity to the Duke of Yorks Square is a plus.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Check out the London Guide for more hotels, restaurants, shops, and itineraries.

MAP IT

See all the locations in this story. (Google Maps)

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE

Checking In: London's New Hotels
London According to Jeremy Goring, the Queen's Hotelier
Little Black Book: NOTED's Favorite London Spots

Photos, from top: courtesy of Science Museum; courtesy of Tower of London; walden_69 / Flickr; courtesy of The Berkeley.

Summer in Watch Hill, Rhode Island

Christina Ohly has lived with her husband and two children in New York City and London, and has never been shy about shipping her crew to the far corners of the globe in search of memorable sights and tastes. So we never expected that, come summer, she's at her happiest so close to her American home in Rhode Island, the small state that delivers big.

WATCH HILL, Rhode Island – There is no place more beautiful in the summer than New England. Period, full stop. 

The quaint seaside town of Watch Hill is the ultimate in pure, awesome Americana, from outstanding displays of true prep and lighthouses to killer lobster rolls and the best homemade black raspberry ice cream (a seasonal RI speciality). Located on a peninsula on Block Island Sound and surrounded by water on all sides, Watch Hill is perfect for sailing, body surfing, and exploring the village's gorgeous "cottages" (who do they think they're fooling?) by bicycle.

WHERE TO STAY

The Ocean House recently underwent a multi-million reno and is now getting up to speed on the service front. But this place is lovely and well located old-world fun. Overlooking the beach and the picturesque village, the Ocean House is the only Relais & Chateau-esque game in town. The sweet college student staffers will happily book boat rides, fishing trip, and cool activities for kids.

A less pricey option is Watch Hill Inn on the bay. Accommodations are more like condos, and the kitchenettes make this a great choice for families, as does the proximity to the carousel and public beach.

WHAT TO EAT

Pack a picnic from the Cooked Goose and order the locals' favorite sandwich, W. H. 15, a ham, cheese, and carmelized onion treat named after a type of old sailboat found only in this area. The Goose stocks great basics like BLT with thick-cut bacon on freshly baked bread, as well as upscale offerings like lobster salad, lemon/herb cappellini, and chewy molasses and chocolate chip cookies. 

Other great bets: Aunt Carrie's for lobster in the rough: Bridge for fresh seafood, vegetarian options aplenty, and the riverfront view; and PizzaPlace Westerly for gourmet pies with shrimp and artichoke in an old converted mill.

Drinks at dusk on the enormous, sweeping porch at Ocean House are a must. You'll have upscale takes on New England faves for hors d'ouevres. The phenomenal sunsets are free.

WHERE TO PLAY

At risk of stating the obvious, go to the beach. East Beach, with its formidable surf, is the quintessential summer stop, though it's not great for kids under two. Pack a picnic, take in the views from the bluff (ah, that picture-perfect lighthouse), and stroll along the endless coast toward Weekapaug. Watch Hill's central carousel (pause for a moment of charm: It's the oldest continually operating one in the US) is old-school fun, as are milkshakes from St. Clair Annex just down the street. Walk out to Napatree Point, a half-mile long sandspit with remnants of a fort from the Spanish-American War, to ponder the passing boats and Fisher's Island in the distance.

WHAT TO SEE

If fun in the sun gets to be too much (it could happen), head indoors for a little culture. At the Mashantucket Pequot Museum, kids learn about Native peoples from hands-on exhibits, dancing, and life-size dioramas. Theatre by the Sea in Matunuck is a great place to catch a show. If you want to go farther afield, you can spend the day at WaterFire Providence, the summer river festival/exhibit 40 minutes away, or wander the nearby towns of Stonington and Wickford, Connecticut, for the quaint streets, fishing history, and delicious foodie finds. 

MAP IT

See the locations for this trip. (Google Maps)