How to Raise World-Curious Kids

Around here, we think it's never too early to become a traveler. But it's one thing to say you're taking the toddlers to Tokyo; it's another thing to figure out how to do it — and get them to like it. Contributing editor Christina Ohly has been taking her kids around the globe for almost a decade. She knows how it's done.

It's a tough balance: your love of a faraway casbah vs. your child's love of the hotel entertainment system. How can you show your kids the world — and create curious, flexible, well-rounded individuals in the process? I've been figuring this out as I go and I've picked up good tricks on the way. Let's start with ground rules and move on to techniques.

Ground Rules

As with everything, moderation is the way to cultivate a world traveler. Go for a hi-lo mix when exposing them to new places: The latest installation at the Tate Modern in London works best when juxtaposed with a day trip to Legoland in nearby Windsor.

Never let them see you sweat. If your child senses your fear of jet lag or new cuisines or the immigration line in Buenos Aires, she will pick up on it and be anxious, too. Teach kids from a young age (and I mean really young — as soon as they've had their first immunizations) to board a plane, a train, and sit in a car and go with the flow. Resilient people are made, not born, and seeing different cultures, places, and perspectives will only make them stronger in the long run.

There is great value — and lots of humor — in travel disasters. Remember this as you tour the globe and your child experiences everything from foreign bug bites and unidentifiable foods to rubbish removal systems (my kids still talk about Rome's fascinating setup). The best part of traveling with kids is the bonding you'll do on the road, second only to seeing the world in a whole new way through their eyes.

For now, focus on fun, and a love of travel will surely follow. They'll have time to scale the peaks of Nepal and explore the Guggenheim in Bilbao when they're older.

On to techniques.

Set the Stage

The first step in creating a great global adventure is setting them up to succeed. Get kids excited about the places they'll see and the smells and tastes they'll experience by introducing books, films, and apps that highlight specific destinations.

Books: Series such as Miroslav Sasek's This is ... and Tim Egan's Dodsworth in ... series bring yeoman warders and Notre Dame to life for little people.

Films: Ditto atmospheric films like The Red Balloon, the story of a French schoolboy. Even Disney's Madagascar get kids asking about the plains of Africa.

Apps and Websites: Get kids interacting with the world around them with the best online resources: National Geographic for Kids, Travel for Kids, and Abercrombie & Kent's app with videos of everything from gorilla trekking in Uganda to birding in Galapagos.

An old sugar mill, Cotton House, Mustique, the Grenadines.

Perfect Packing

A happy child is an amused, well-fed child. For kids who are old enough to carry their own backpacks, include an assortment of toys, electronic devices, and snacks that will stand up to the long haul. Granola bars, nuts, fruit leather, and the occasional sweet (M&Ms travel well) won't get squashed or stale on an arid airplane. As for hand-held devices, skip the donut-making/Angry-Birds time sucks, and opt for Travel Bingo, National Geographic's National Park Maps, and PicPocket Books where you can download favorite books. 

Successful travel toys are reusable and won't roll off tray tables: triangular crayons, mini Lego sets, washable markers and drawing pads, and digital cameras for the over fives. Travel activity books like Rand McNally's Are We There Yet? and Mad Libs on the Road will get them excited about explorations both large and small.

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Outside Galerie Tatiana Tournemine, Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Paris.

Fly Right

The flights you pick can make the difference between joyful travelers and jet-lagged disasters. Depending on the age of your child, an overnight flight when traveling from west to east can be a friend or a foe. Babies generally do well, as they sleep through noise and movement, but older kids have a tougher time missing a proper night's sleep. Sitting upright, falling asleep for a few hours, and being rudely awakened makes for one seriously cranky kid. If time allows and you don't want to ruin your first days of vacation, opt for a day flight. Flights leaving major US east coast cities for Europe leave early in the morning and land after dinner local time, just in time for a good night's sleep.

If you take a red-eye, hit the ground running. Napping will only further throw off schedules, so keep kids moving, out in the natural light, well fed, and hydrated to reset their clocks.

A few other jet lag tips when flying from west to east: start resetting kids' internal clocks three days in advance with earlier bed times, opt for carbs in-flight to induce sleep, and go for a protein-laden snack upon landing. As a general rule, allow one day per time zone crossed for a full jet lag recovery. Flying east to west is much easier on kids, as the body adjusts to the new time zone more easily and there isn't as much lost sleep.

When booking long-haul flights, opt for bulkheads with bassinets for babies and consult Seat Guru for the low-down on everything from legroom to in-flight snacks. And always pack a change of clothes for the flight. There is nothing like a cold night flight with a juice spill (or worse) down junior's front. Eight hours feels like an eternity when you're soggy.

Beekeeping in Rhinebeck, New York.

Start at the Gift Shop

Seriously. It holds true for many ages and stages that if you get the souvenir, tchotchke, and postcard-buying out of the way at the beginning of the trip, you will have a more focused traveler on your hands. For little people (as for big people) it is often about the get. I've found that if I let everyone score a little something early on, the group is less preoccupied for the entire day.

Encourage kids stock up on their souvenir collections. An Alhambra key chain and a snow globe from Shanghai make great bedroom mementos. In my house, Christmas tree ornaments that get pulled out yearly serve are especially reminders of faraway places.

The Louvre in Paris.

The Culture Club

If you want an excited explorer, don't take her on the Bataan Death March of culture. Travel is supposed to be fun, and four expansive museums in a day just isn't fun. Remember that art is everywhere — on street corners, in cafes, in parks — and keep the structured gallery-going in check. Again, this is all about personal thresholds, but I've found targeted cultural forays — a particular show at a museum, seeking out the Mona Lisa at the Louvre (and catching other treasures en route) is an effective strategy for engaging but not overloading.

If your child is old enough to have an opinion, let them do some of the planning. By encouraging your child's inner Vasco de Gama, he'll be even more invested in a good outcome.

Eating Ramen at Wagamama in London.

Pleasing Picky Eaters

One man's tapas are another kid's tater tots. It is all about the sell. That many foods are universal — bread, rice, fruit, fish — holds great appeal for young kids who respond well to "this risotto is just like the pasta you eat at home" or "calamari fritti are a lot like fish fingers." Dumb it down if you have to — who cares? They will try new foods, they will savor them, and they will learn to love a whole new range of things. From bagels in New York City to freshly baked naan in New Delhi, encourage them to expand their palates in ways that they might not at home. The jamón ibérico that gets no play on your dinner table will be devoured when served in a bocadillo in a café in Seville.

As with jet lag, the key is to power through and UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCE cave and go for American chain food. Unless you're stuck at a water park.

Finding starfish on Harbour Island, Bahamas.

Go for Local Color

My kids now roll their eyes at me when I bang on about the importance of local color, which I consider to be the real life of a place: coffee shops, food markets (more fun and educational than museums any day), buses and subways, busy playgrounds. These settings allow kids to observe how a place really operates. Let them find something to buy so they can use the local currency. A Euro, a Turkish lira, and a colorful Jamaican dollar are endlessly fascinating to kids — and they make for great souvenirs.

I am also a fan of foreign TV — cartoons in other languages somehow translate, and global news coverage is just different outside the US. You'll be amazed to see a kid with no understanding of the rules of cricket be transfixed by a match on holiday.

In markets and in nature, let them find and indulge in creatures and gross things. The leech vendor was by far my son's favorite thing of Istanbul.

La Mezquita, the mosque of Cordoba, Spain.

Little Linguists Love Learning Languages

This is where apps come in handy again. Introducing children to new languages via the web and hand-held devices is effective because it turns the learning process into a game. LinguPingu introduces basic Mandarin; First Words: Spanish will have toddlers chatting en español in no time. From Romance to Semitic to Continental West Germanic languages (that'd be Dutch, Afrikaans), help your kid develop an ear for the languages they will hear before you land.

Even if all they come away with is "please" and "thank you," it's so important to show cultural sensitivity and good manners wherever you go. Por favor and efharisto will carry any kid traveler a long way. And you might find that once they get home, they have an easier time saying it in Spanish and Greek than English.

Eating gelato in Piazza Navona, Rome.

Celebrate Difference

Muslim women wear burqas, Russian kids wear Valenki felt boots. The world is a massive, multi-cultural, multi-ethnic mix, and the sooner your child sees that, the more intrigued he or she will be to explore further. I tend to position things around other kids — the sports they play, how they go to school, what they eat, and how they worship. Kids are kids, and differences dissipate when soccer, Selena Gomez, and the local version of pizza (every culture has one) are involved.

The Blue Mosque in Istanbul.

Keep the Spirit Alive

Long after you've returned home, and you are craving new and different adventures, you'll want to find ways to incorporate what you've seen, heard — and eaten! — back into your lives. Kids will be the guides here — from particular pasta dishes they loved abroad, to TV shows they've learned about elsewhere, to favorite Swiss chocolates that are available at your local high-end market.

My kids often note wherever we go that life moves at a different pace than it does where we live. People take time for really long lunches (Italy), or they stay out late at night (Spain), or they are very helpful to each other when opening doors or lifting bags (Bahamas). They notice subtle differences in the way people live their lives — from St. Petersburg, Russia, to St. Petersburg, Florida. And this makes them kids who are curious about the world around them.

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The World's Most Romantic Hotels: Italy

Honeymoons, anniversaries, engagements, make-ups — and that's just a typical afternoon for the average Italian love affair. When cupid is on the mind, check into our favorite hotels where la dolce vita meets la vita amorosa.

Jump to: Aeolian Islands | Amalfi Coast | Apulia | Liguria | Lazio | Lake Garda | Lake Como | Molise | Sicily | Treviso | Tuscany | Veneto | Umbria

AEOLIAN ISLANDS

Hotel Raya
Panarea
What's to Love: Small, impossibly chic inn run by the same eccentric proprietress for years. The hotel is built into a hillside on Panarea, the most fashionable of the seven Aeolian islands, overlooking Stromboli. The islands are remote and beautiful and locals cling fiercely to their culture.
Good to Know: On a clear night, you can see the volcanic flares from your room.

AMALFI COAST

Don Alfonso
Sant' Agata sui due Golfi
What's to Love: A love nest in the hills between Sorrento and Positano. You'll be tempted to stay in your colorful room all day, but the Michelin-star restaurant is unmissable.
Good to Know: Sign up for cooking classes while you're here, and learn to recreate the culinary magic, minus the sunshine, anytime. For added privacy, rent the private poet's house on the property.

Hotel Caesar Augustus
Capri
What's to Love: Stunning vistas and an infinity pool that seems to stretch to the sea. This place takes al fresco dining to a whole new level with tables overlooking the cliffs of Capri and Ischia in the distance.
Good to Know: You can't stay in Capri without hiring a small boat to take you around the island to swim in the coves.

Hotel Caruso
Ravello
What's to Love: Set in a former palace that dates from the 11th century, the romantic Caruso in the heart of medieval Ravello is a beautiful escape from busy Amalif Coast towns like Positano and Amalfi, with enormous rooms covered in restored frescoes. Caruso is a step back in time: The lush gardens, the small but stellar spa, and al fresco dining are simply magical.
Good to Know: The infinity pool overlooking the Amalfi Coast and surrounded by arbors of bougainvillea is one of the most beautiful in the world. It's the perfect place to perch for an afternoon meal of wood-fired pizzas and Prosecco.
Read more on Fathom: A Breathtaking Bird's Eye View of Ravello

Hotel Punta Tragara
Capri
What's to Love: It's perched atop the cliffs at the very end of the lovely, flower- and tree-ensconced pedestrian-only road and was sculpted out of the rock face and designed by Le Corbusier. The cavernous, arched ceilings create a tranquil and elegant space where modern and old world pieces are smartly combined. The terrace overlooks the famous Faraglioni rocks and the impossibly blue Tyrrhenian Sea.
Good to Know: October is a perfect time to go, tourist season would down, but the weather is still perfect.
Read More on Fathom: Love Letter to Hotel Punta Tragara

Hotel Santa Caterina
Amalfi
What's to Love: A cliffside hotel that may as well have been built for honeymooning. It's packed with couples who come for the breathtaking views, outdoor dining with live music, and a roof made from sprawling lemon trees.
Good to Know: You're on the main drag of the Amalfi Coast but will feel removed from the crowds. Elevators connect the hotel to the private beach and pool.

J.K. Place Capri
Capri
What's to Love: Oh sweet bay of Naples laid out before me, how lovely you look from this chic and serene perch on the hill. How far I feel from the crowds of Capri, how smart I feel that I found this vantage point.
Good to Know: As beautiful as the rooms are, get out of bed in the morning. The hotel's breakfast spread is a sight to behold.
Read more on Fathom: Love Letter to J.K. Place Capri

La Minerva
Capri
What's to Love: Fresh and affordable accommodations in pricey Capri. Signore Esposito, the owner, runs this sparkling gem with stunning sea views. Many rooms have grand terraces.
Good to know: Have breakfast on the rooftop patio for spectacular views. For a modest fee, you can use the pool at the neighboring hotel, which is owned by Mr. Esposito's aunt. So Italian.

Le Sirenuse
Positano
What's to Love: Everybody adores this classic hotel. Is it the effect of drinking a bottle of rose while sitting in your bathrobe on a balcony overlooking the Mediterranean? The epic views from this hillside hotel? The breakfast on the terrace followed by a lazy day in a shaded pool cabana?
Good to Know: If you're squeamish, don't drive. Get a driver, and schedule a stop in Pompeii. Take the boat to Capri and enjoy drinks in a cave on the beach.

Palazzo Avino
Ravello
What's to Love: The former Palazzo Sasso is truly divine — like you died and went to Amalfi heaven. The best part is the service: truly impeccable. Discreet and exactly what you'd expect when you're spending a month's salary on four nights. Be careful with the room you reserve: Cheaper rooms aren't worth the savings.
Good to Know: Breakfast on the terrace is lovely. Be sure to bring along a Hermès or Etro bikini so you fit in at the swimming pool.

Parco dei Principi
Sorrento
What's to Love: Giò Ponti designed the hotel and swimming pool. The garden is one of the most romantic and mature in all of Italy. Beach is sophisticated and quiet with great food.
Good to Know: Bring a camera and meet the owner to visit the old palazzo.

Villa Tre Ville
Positano
What's to Love: If you've ever fantasized about dating — or being — Marcello Mastroianni, you can take dolce vita dreams to the next level by checking into the Amalfi Coast cliffside estate that was the home of legendary Italian director Franco Zeffirelli (yes, the one who did Romeo and Juliet, speaking of romance...). He spent decades restoring and designing the cliffside property so every striking detail is infused with drama, resulting in spaces that look like Italian and Moroccan stage sets and rooms named for pals like Maria Callas and characters like Tosca. Aperol spritzes appear out of nowhere, the swimming is fabulous, and the hotel's skiff will whisk you off to Da Adolfo for lunch or to Positano for a pizza at the drop of a hat.

APULIA

Masseria Torre Coccaro
Apulia
What's to Love: A sexy boutique hotel with major amenities — a great beach club; a nice spa; olive groves; sun-drenched, white-washed love nests; it's like staying on an old olive plantation mere steps from Bari's scenic towns.
Good to Know: As for the room with the private hot tub and patio: It's the sexy business. Order pasta at the beach club. So delicious.

Your own private villa. Photo courtesy of Villa Feltrinelli.

LAKE GARDA

Lefay Resort & Spa
Gargnano
What's to Love: It's a fantasy place to relax. You'll love their amazing spa with their super treatments, the view from the outdoor warm water pool over the Garda Lake, and the restaurant's very efficient and friendly staff.

Villa Feltrinelli
Lake Garda, Italy
What's to Love: Lake Garda may not be as well known as Lake Como, and that's all the better for you if your idea of amore involves a sumptuous, 19th-century lakefront villa with a long (and at times notorious) history. Much as you'll want to gaze into each other's eyes, you might be distracted by the restored antiques, the centuries-old lemon trees, and the Michelin-starred meal on the pergola. Don't fight it. You're in Italy: You're supposed to be in love with everything you see.

LAKE COMO

Il Sereno
Lake Como
What's to Love: Set on the shores of Lake Como, this Patricia Urquoila-designed property is all stone and glass — elements that won't compete with the surrounding natural beauty. Rooms feature floor-to-ceiling windows and minimalist furnishings to maximize the views. The infinity pool is a thing of beauty, as is the hotel's fleet of classic boats that were handcrafted by local artisans and boat-making legend Daniele Riva and feature the old-school aesthetics of classic lake boats updated with Urquoila's chic fabrics and finishes.

LAZIO

La Scelta di Goethe
Rome
What's to Love: Three still under-the-radar apartments in a restored historic building in the heart of the city feel like the home of a Roman royal than the usual luxury hotel. Rich tapestries and Florentine artwork merge seamlessly with the latest technologies like loaded iPads in every guest room.
Good to Know: The suite Trinita dei Monti has sweeping terraces, a well-stocked library, and a rooftop soaking pool. The very recipe for romance.
Read more on Fathom: Rome's Hot New Hotel Is a Poet's Old Home

Photo courtesy of La Scelta di Goethe.

LIGURIA

Hotel Cenobio dei Dogi
Camogli
What's to Love: Simple and charming with a wonderful view and the freshest fish.
Good to know: Ocean facing rooms are more expensive, but that's what you're here for.

Hotel Splendido
Portofino
What's to Love: The brilliant pink bougainvillea that blooms just off your terrace overlooking the Mediterranean. They don't tolerate diving or splashing at the pool, so you're guaranteed a peaceful time.
Good to Know: Spend a day following the path on the nature reserve behind the hotel. You'll emerge in a nearby cove, have a refreshing aperitivo, the take a boat back.

Monte Pù
Castiglione Chiavarese
What's to Love: An agriturismo hideaway on a coastal mountaintop. You're in the middle of nowhere, staring at Elba and the fields around you.
Good to know: It's modest — no WiFi, no spa, no frills. But you'll immediately realize how beautiful simplicity can be. Rates, by the way, start at 40 €. You could move in.

MOLISE

Dimora Del Prete
Venafro
What's to Love: A grand private home tucked into the middle of the countryside. You'll feel like you took a trip back in time.
Good to Know: This is a clever, if unlikely, place to perch for excursions in the Abruzzo National Forest or en route from Northern to Southern Italy.

SICILY

Belmond Villa Sant'Andrea
Taormina Mare
What's to Love: A 19th century former has been transformed into a series of luxurious rooms and suites but still feels like an intimate home where every wish and detail is attended to. Linger over elaborate breakfasts of meat, cheeses, freshly baked breads, and delicious juices on the tropical terrace. The gardens afford secret spots to linger and watch spectacular sunsets before heading uphill to Taormina for cocktails at sister property Belmond Grand Hotel Timeo.
Good to Know: Complimentary boat trips — complete with snorkeling guides — are a wonderful way to explore the coastline and the crystal-clear Ionian Sea.
Read more on Fathom: Zone Out on the Beach in Sicily

Photo courtesy of Belmond Villa Sant'Andrea

Monaci delle Terre Nere
The slopes of Mt. Etna
What's to Love: A boutique hotel set on an old vineyard estate with about ten rooms. The pool is cut into steppes in Mt. Etna, and olives from the nearby trees bob in the pool. You can hike through their organic farm, getting lost under orange trees, or just sit on the mountain by the pool, staring off to the ocean in the distance.
Good to Know: The double deluxe Floreale has a terrace and a very cool modern bathroom with a big tub. Definitely eat breakfast, lunch, and dinner at the hotel. The orange and grape juices, pressed from the estate's orchards, are fantastic.

TREVISO

Hotel Villa Cipriani
Asolo
What's to Love: The verb asolare means to pass time in an agreeable and purposeless way. Combined with the mountain air and delightful surroundings, what more could you hope for from a romantic weekend? Despite being tucked away north of the Veneto, the views from Villa Cipriani rival that of any hill town in Tuscany. The breakfast on the terrace of room 102 is especially great, if you arrive in the dark the night before.

TUSCANY

Castello di Casole
Casole d'Elsa
What's to Love: The hotel is sincere, rich in heritage and modern comforts, and not in the least bit pretentious. The pool deck, carved into a hillside, is a great perch from which to sip Prosecco and enjoy sweeping views of the countryside, a beautiful tapestry of greens and taupes. In the restaurant, flavors are proudly local and the staff is superbly attentive. All of which make the perfect backdrop for pressing the pause button and cherishing each other.

Castiglion del Bosco
Montalcino
What's to Love: A working wine estate owned by Massimo Ferragamo and the definition of a luxury resort. From suites in the borgo to the restored rustic villas in the countryside, the design and attention to detail is impeccable. You could check in and never leave, as the estate has everything: several delicious restaurants, a luxurious day spa, and extensive grounds.
Good to Know: Rent a car to explore the breathtaking countryside, unless you only want to soak up the Tuscan dolce vita full time at the estate.

J. K. Place
Florence
What's to Love: On Piazza Santa Maria Novella and a few blocks from the Duomo. The façade may not look like much, but you'll find the best of old-meets-new world inside. Great DVD library, helpful staff, gorgeous rooms, and a selection of warm tarts, tea, fruit and orange juice in the lobby.
Good to Know: You're a few steps from Garga, one of the best restaurants in Florence.

La Bandita
Val D'Orcia
What's to Love: You drive through the Tuscan countryside and finally make it to the top of a hilltop. Your destination: a modern farmhouse with stunning views, a pool, and hipster touches like a great library and music collection. This is isolation at its best.
Good to know: The charming American owner, John Voigtmann, is a former music exec who runs this place like a country getaway for friends.
Read More on Fathom: John Voigtmann's Innkeeper's Tales

Locanda Dell'Amorosa
Sinalunga
What's to Love: The name translates as "the inn of the lovers" for good reason. The cypress-lined drive, the amazing restaurant, the countryside setting amid gently rolling hills. In the 1300s the space was largely stables. Today, it's your basic Tuscan fantasy come true.
Good to Know: Bring a bathing suit for the pool.

Poggio Etrusco
Montepulciano
What's to Love: An adorable, inexpensive B&B in the Tuscan countryside with a kitchen garden to get lost in. Guests are free to pick anything they desire and each room comes with a stocked pantry.
Good to know: Arrange a cooking class with the owner and cookbook author, Pamela Sheldon Johns, and have her plan your Tuscan food adventures.

St. Regis Florence
Florence
What's to Love: The location overlooking the Arno. The 15th-century building designed by Filippo Brunelleschi. The antique furniture, art, and fixtures. The authentic Italian grandness that isn't at all stuffy.
Good to Know: The beds are pretty inspiring, too.
Read More on Fathom: Love Letter to the St. Regis Florence.

Villa San Michele
Fiesole
What's to Love: Set high on a hillside overlooking the red roofs of Florence. Have a leisurely lunch at their Loggia restaurant and try not to faint while passing by the giant blue and lavender hydrangeas spilling out of the potted plants near the entry. Yes, they're real.
Good to Know: You ge the far-away Tuscan feel with the benefit of being close to Florence's museums, restaurants, and shops.

VENETO

Aman Canal Grande
Venice
What's to Love: The 24-room hotel inside Palazzo Papdopoli dates back to 1555, home to the count and countess who now live on the top floor. The opulent palatial interior features a labryinth of elegant rooms, neo-baroque library, reading nooks, and a vast salons in a variety of styles.
Good to Know: Have dinner on the piano nobile, the most elegant floor in the palazzo home.
Read More on Fathom: Cinderella for a Night in Venice

Ca Sagredo
Venice
What's to Love: If you could go back in time and be the Venetian noble — with the masks, the illicit affairs, the incredible home overlooking the Grand Canal — this is what your life would look like. Check in to live the fantasy.
Good to Know: The hotel, which has always been a noble family's palazzo, is a master class in Venetian art. Those paintings are by Nicolò Bambini, Giambattista Tiepolo, and Pietro Longhi.

Il Palazzo
Venice
What's to Love: Yes, the Danieli is divine, but we prefer the more private — and ridiculously sumptuous — charms of this canal-front hotel that's at once in the middle of the Venice insanity yet totally removed from it.
Good to Know: The rooftop bar has outstanding views. Make breakfast last for hours.

Relais La Magioca
Verona
What's to Love: Beautiful country house with cozy, tasteful rooms. A morning walk through the surrounding terraced vineyards is magical.
Good to Know: There's a tiny ivy-covered Romanesque chapel on the grounds — should nuptial thoughts cross anyone's mind.

The Gritti Palace
Venice
What's to Love: One of Venice's most incredible places, now a Luxury Collection Hotel, with striking views, an esteemed history, an incredible Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo Spa.
Good to Know: It's not all classic Venice: The massive Donghia suite sets the mood with black-and-white snapshots of disco days and boogie nights, dramatic chandeliers, groovy '70s sconces, a massive marble bathtub, and, of course, a butler.
Read More on Fathom: In Love and in Venice

Villa Feltrinelli
Gargnano
What's to Love: Gorgeous lakeside villa lavishly restored in 1997. Modern and traditional at the same time. Beautiful antiques, Wi-Fi, and an unbelievable view.
Good to Know: Heated marble floors to keep your feet toasty in the cool weather.

UMBRIA

Eremo delle Grazie
Umbria
What's to Love: In an monastery in the hills, crooked hallways are filled with furniture, framed maps, and drawings collected over the centuries. Ten frescoed monk cells have been converted into suites named after Italian friars. There's a library of old books, a parlor, and a walking path in the woods.
Good to Know: You can rent out the entire place as a retreat or couple up and pretty much have the place to yourself. Umbrian specialties are served on a terrace overlooking the town of Spoleto below.
Read more on Fathom: You Can Have Your Birthday Party at This Ancient Italian Monastery, But First You Have to Find

Photo by Jeralyn Gerba.

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE

The World's Most Romantic Hotels

Contributors: Caryl Chinn, Sonya de Castelbajac, Harold Dieterle, Christina DiLaura, Deirdre Dolan, David Feige, Julia Herr, Olga Katsnelson, Stephanie March, Lorenzo Merlo, Christina Ohly, Annie Ojile, Jill Paris, Nathalie Sann, Kerry Saretsky, Alyssa Shelasky, Sharon Thomas-Counce, Angela Tribelli, Brette Warshaw.

A Hotel Renovated with Ultimate SoCal Vibes

In the City of Angels, the name of the game is maxing and relaxing. Look no further than the newly renovated Fairmont Miramar Hotel & Bungalows in Santa Monica, where there's a world-class fitness center, excellent restaurant, killer views of the Pacific, and good vibes.

CHECKING IN

Overview

Set at the edge of Santa Monica — with sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean in the distance — the Fairmont Miramar Hotel feels like a real Hollywood hideaway due to its unique bi-level bungalows and leafy surroundings. You'd typically have to stay much further inland, in Beverly Hills or Bel-Air, to achieve this kind of blissful seclusion.

Upon arrival, I was whisked past a truly enormous fig tree and into a world of manicured gardens, Exhale spa treatments, and delicious meals at the light-filled FIG — the hotel's destination-worthy restaurant where LA power brokers do deals over breakfast. The Miramar is an ideal spot for a romantic rendezvous, families who want beach proximity, or anyone doing business in West LA. I left feeling completely rested and refreshed after just two days.

What's New

The hotel's 32 bungalows — four being bi-level suites suitable for families — have just seen a complete renovation courtesy of LA-based interior designer Michael Berman. Past the amorphous swimming pool, these soothing spaces are tucked away at the back of the hotel property and have a minimalist, modern aesthetic, offering every possible amenity. Built in 1938, the bungalows have stood the test of time and are still incredibly cool: a new, lightly colored palette, natural wood finishes, and mid-century modern furnishings and light fixtures make each of these bungalows feel like a comfortable home away from home.

What's on Site

The Miramar is a self-contained campus that you'll likely never want to leave. Between an expansive fitness center, excellent chopped salads, and the spacious accommodations complete with private terraces and balconies, a stay here feels like a sweet escape.

A shaded swimming pool area offers a lively scene in the summer months and all of the sun umbrellas feature festive Villebrequin patterns. The fitness center deck overlooking the pool is an ideal spot for stretching and morning sun salutations. Anyone in search of an exercise class will be spoiled for choice at Exhale on the ground level. Starlets flock here for the rigorous Core Fusion Barre + Cardio classes, but there is something for everyone. I highly recommend Flow Yoga for less committed types.

The parking valets are top-notch, which is everything in car-centric LA. The concierge team is happy to facilitate hard-to-score bookings at Bestia, the hopping Tower Bar, Gjelina in Venice, or Brentwood brunch staple Farmshop.

You'll never want (or have) to leave the premises.

Curl up with a good book with the sound of waves crashing against the shore.

The Food

There is nothing hotel-like about the food at Miramar. Head to FIG for Chef Yousef Ghailani's creative, Lebanese-inspired fare. I became a particularly big fan of the hearty breakfasts. The Santa Monica special with an egg white scramble, chicken-apple sausage, and fresh berries was delicious, as was the frittata packed with farmer's market vegetables and a piquant tomatillo-avocado salsa. Say yes to a bountiful California breakfast.

How's this for a nice dining option: heated terraces overlooking the property. Because my room was so cossetting, I once opted for a room service dinner and was delighted by the delicious simplicity of a seared tuna Niçoise salad with a side of perfectly crisp fries. There are so many excellent culinary finds within walking distance of the hotel that it's absolutely necessary to get out and explore, but one could happily subsist on the excellent fish tacos and well-executed hamburgers for at least a week without leaving the hotel.

In the Room

The Miramar is comprised of 302 rooms but it somehow manages to feel intimate and not the least bit chain-like.

The Bungalows feature enormous king-sized beds swathed in crisp white linens, flat-screen TVs, minibars, and bar carts. As the iconic bungalows were just redone last summer, everything is spotless — the wood floors, neutral carpets, even the comfortable Danish modern-inspired chairs sprinkled throughout the living room areas. All of the rooms are set up for people who work: easy Internet access, multiple power sources, and good task lighting.

In addition, it should be noted that the Bungalows are attended to morning, noon, and night. I stress-tested the system when I locked myself out of the top floor bathroom at 3 a.m. As it has a heavy door with a dead bolt lock that I somehow managed to click in the wrong direction, I worried that I wouldn't be able to gain access to my contact lenses, valuables, and assorted toiletries for hours. One call to maintenance and two workers were at my doorstep in a matter of minutes. Problem solved.

Room with a View

I was upgraded to the spectacular Bungalow 24 — a bi-level room (a house, really) — complete with a sitting room and bathroom downstairs, and a bedroom, bath, and outdoor terrace upstairs. This patio, with its wicker and bright canvas couches, proved difficult to leave, as my views of swaying palm trees and the sea were so relaxing. Bungalow rates range from $900 to $5,000 per night, with the Presidential Suite being the swankiest of the inventory. I toured this space — a 3-bedroom combination — and it is also perfectly set up for families, with plenty of doors, separate bathrooms, and no stairs in sight.

I also stayed in the main part of the hotel on a separate visit, in one of the 400-square-foot Palisades rooms. The spaces offer great value for money, as well as little wet bar/kitchen areas that are perfect for extended stays. As with all of the rooms at Miramar, they are quiet. The hotel seems to draw a mellow, early-to-bed crowd. But be sure to request one of the freshly updated rooms in this newly updated hotel.

This Place Is Perfect For

Families, business travelers who want peace and quiet as well as excellent Wifi, couples looking for a romantic escape, and anyone in need of a good workout/detox.

But Not So Perfect For

Anyone looking to rage, although you can find a party scene at the adjacent Bungalow lounge and bar at the far edge of the hotel property. This indoor/outdoor club has a SoCal vibe and is hopping from 5 p.m. onward, but doesn't create noise or impact hotel guests in any way. The Chateau Marmont this hotel is not!

Tiki party anyone? Grab a drink at the bar and chill out on the patio.

CHECKING OUT

Neighborhood Vibe / Natural Surroundings

The Santa Monica Pier has easy bike rentals (making it great for families), and people-watching in nearby Venice Beach. The Santa Monica Farmer's Market is a hit, too, with pony rides and insanely tasty tacos.

The 3rd Street promenade area has all of the basics: a mega-plex movie theatre, bookstores, and chain restaurants. There are also smaller, niche shops — Fred Segal, for one — that shouldn't be missed.

I still love Ivy by the Shore for upscale pizzas, the best chopped salad in town, and ice cream sundaes that remind me of my youth. At Shutters on the Beach just down the street, the lively bar and cafe are great places to get a drink and watch the scene-y LA world go by. If you're feeling like something simple, Joan's on Third makes an excellent, affordable breakfast as does the iconic Cora's Coffee Shoppe across Ocean Avenue. Be sure to sit outside under the trellis and sip one of the best ice coffees ever. Cora's huevos rancheros deserve a shout-out as well.

Huckleberry remains a lunch favorite for excellent salads and inventive sandwich combinations and nearby Montana Avenue is full of great takeaway options. Menchies — the ultimate DIY frozen yogurt bar — brings out the kid in everyone, while dinners of hamachi crudo and housemade pappardelle at Aestus are to be savored by an adult crowd. Gjusta in Venice — the bakery and deli from Gjelina chef Travis Lett, is completely worth the wait. The homemade buttermilk biscuits, breakfast mushroom bowls, and the porchetta melt are to die for.

Worth traveling a bit further afield: Shoppers will love The Elder Statesman for exquisitely hip cashmere in a bungalow-like setting, as well as the funky-chic RTH — a hybrid shop full of one-off leather goods, ceramics, and incense that wafts down La Cienega Boulevard.

Brentwood Country Mart is another favorite, with delicious lunches at Farmshop a must. Jenni Kayne sells beautiful sweaters and suede boots, while Poppy Store offers a carefully curated selection of hip kids clothing. Edelweiss Chocolates is always a good idea, too!

There is so much happening on the cultural front in LA right now, it is making New York and London look tame. Don't miss the Robert Mapplethorpe: The Perfect Medium exhibit at the Los Angeles Museum of Contemporary Art that will be co-curated with The Getty. The Broad is worth the hype to see the Diller Scofidio + Renfro-designed spaces. Recharge at Otium next door for a delicious meal by French Laundry vet Timothy Hollingsworth.

Pamper yourself in this plush bungalow space.

Good to Know

You might end up saving money by just using Uber vs. renting a car and paying for all of the parking. Uber is incredibly affordable in LA and they're everywhere, instantaneously. If you're doing serious distance driving, then hire one from the affordable Midway in Santa Monica. They'll pick up and deliver to your hotel, no hassle.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

How to Get There

Los Angeles International Airport is 20 minutes away with no traffic. Be sure to hit the In-N-Out Burger that is literally feet from the airport runway because nothing says "Welcome to Cali!" like a double burger, no bun.

Getting Around

This is LA — a car of some kind is essential.

The Discreet Charm of the Bourgeoisie: A Country Chateau in the Heart of Paris

Indefatigable hotel-hopper and Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly finds an incredibly chic, family-friendly Parisian hôtel particulier that feels like a countryside gem.

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Overview

Set in a secluded Neo-Classical mansion circa 1892, the Saint James is a truly unique hôtel particulier — a stand-alone building that feels like a country chateau in the heart of the chic 16th arrondissement in Paris. Built by the widow of French Prime Minister Adolphe Thiers, Saint James is now an exquisite, slightly quirky oasis with just 48 rooms — 21 of which are spacious suites. The restaurant — by Michelin-starred chef Virginie Basselot — draws locals, club members (the building first opened as a private club and still has a wonderful, homey vibe), and tourists alike for refined but not fussy French cuisine.

But it is the grounds that separate the Saint James from the rest of the neighboring five-star hotels: Located on what was once a hot air balloon field, the approach feels more Loire Valley than Centre Ville although it's just steps from the Arc de Triomphe, Trocadero, and the much-hyped, Frank Gehry-designed Fondation Louis Vuitton.

Staircases to heaven.

The sumptuous library-bar.

What's New

The hotel was redone in 2012 — and continues to see additions — by French-American decorator Bambi Sloan, who is known for her bold use of color and cutting-edge design. The result is 48 spacious rooms, no two exactly alike. Trompe l'oeil parquet, tweedy armchairs with leather patches, graphic wallpapers that reflect the building's balloon history, and low lighting combine to create a "crazy chic" signature Sloan environment that is, if nothing else, truly memorable. The Guerlain spa has been upgraded to include facials, deep tissue massages, hammams, and aromatherapy treatments. The beautiful gardens now host beehives that make the honey served at breakfast. And the biggest claim to fame here is the restaurant, which should be reserved well in advance. The delicate Brittany cod with young vegetables and the plate of scallop and oyster tartare have legions of fans.

The restaurant, where Michelin-star chef Virginie Basselot reigns.

Chef Virginie's famous Brittany cod.

The Food

People come here specifically for Michelin-star chef Virginie Masselots and her fresh sea urchin and cockle concoction, as well as her exquisitely light chocolate mousse. Reservations in the formal dining room are recommended. Dining outdoors in the gardens — amidst metal "balloons" in the warmer months — is a must, as is a cocktail in the hotel's atmospheric bar. If you have just one meal here, make it dinner — preferably with a dirty martini — in the two-story library bar where club sandwiches and excellent burgers are savored on velvet couches. Breakfast is another highlight, a complimentary buffet of breads, yogurt, fruit, and cereals, as well as eggs cooked to order.

A junior suite at the Saint James.

A Boudoir room at the Saint James.

In the Room

Some offer a profusion of graphic pattern, while others (including 311 and 303) are a bit more subdued despite the enormous floor-to-ceiling windows. There is plenty of gilding and an abundance of jewel-toned fabrics and chandeliers, but somehow it all works in a playful, baroque way. In addition to easy WiFi access, all rooms feature flat-screen TVs, hidden mini-bars, Guerlain amenities, and excellent, state-of-the-art showers and deep bathtubs. There are 48 rooms in total — many interconnecting or duplex — making them ideal for families or for business travelers who want separate workspaces.

I stayed in room 311 — a junior suite overlooking the terrace and gardens — which was perfect for our family of four. Views of the neighboring mansard rooftops made this a particularly Parisian experience, though I wouldn't mind staying in room 509 on my next visit — a spacious, two-story suite that feels like an apartment, complete with an upstairs master bedroom and quiet neighborhood views.

This Place Is Perfect For

Couples, families with older children who will appreciate the large rooms and separate sleeping areas (the place has a grown-up vibe), and business travelers.

But Not So Perfect For

Anyone without an Uber account. It is a tad farther removed than the hotels of the Golden Triangle or St. Germain-des-Pres. But the peace and quiet is worth it. The Louvre, for example, is just a ten-minute taxi ride away.

The hotel offers plenty of lounges for relaxing after a day of sightseeing.

Breakfast al fresco in the hot air balloon-themed terrace.

CHECKING OUT

Neighborhood Vibe

The Saint James is set in the equivalent of New York's Upper East Side. Meaning, it's residential (of the highest end) and quiet, with tiny grocers and shopkeepers dotting the streets. The Champs Elysées is just a few blocks away for any necessary late-night shopping.

What to Do Nearby

Incredibly helpful, connected concierges can book tables at Mathieu Pacaud's gastronomic restaurant, Hexagone, or arrange private Eiffel Tower tours, but you'll find plenty to do in this part of the 16th arrondissement as well. Fondation Louis Vuitton, a cultural center designed by Frank Gehry with expansive gardens and dynamic programming, is a must. Fashion aficionados will appreciate Pallais Galliera, a museum of fashion, as well as Fondation Yves Saint Laurent. Marmottan-Monet Museum and Museum of Modern Art are other area highlights. Borrow one of the hotel bicycles and explore the neighborhood at a leisurely pace or stroll to dinner in the 8th at Le Grand Restaurant, chef Jean Françoise Piége's new temple of haute cuisine. If you prefer classics, try L'Entrecote, Chez Andre, or Noura for excellent Lebanese food.

Good to Know

It's usually beside the point in Paris, but this hotel sports a very well-equipped gym, complete with chandeliers. I wish I'd eaten more meals in the bar — English club here — because both the food and lively atmosphere are outstanding.

Getting Around

Charles de Gaulle (CDG) and Orly Airport (ORY) are approximately 30 minutes away by taxi, and the closest Metro stops are Porte Dauphine and Victor Hugo. With Uber taking over Paris, this is your best bet for exploration, though walking the streets of the lovely neighborhood is another excellent idea. A Smart Car and bicycles are available to guests.

BOOK IT

A Boudoir room starts at €380 per night. Click here for reservations.

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE

Fathom's Paris Guide
Mind Your Bubbles and Nudes at the Moulin Rouge
Our Favorite Paris Neighborhood Spots

Three Days in Istanbul with the Kids

Contributing editor Christina Ohly and her globetrotting family went on a three-day whirlwind of Istanbul. Boat rides, mosques, markets, the Bosphorous — everybody left happy.

ISTANBUL, Turkey – It's best to set everyone's expectations before hitting this dramatic city of mosques, minarets, and delicious mezzes. First of all, Istanbul is vast and densely populated (we're talking two times the size of New York City, with a population of 14 million). It is also extremely hilly (a la San Francisco), so if you're trying to see a lot in a few days with kids, you'll want to enlist an expert for help. Among other things, you're definitely going to hit traffic, so planning your days wisely is extra important here.

We worked with Lisa Lindblad Travel Design, who did a fantastic job, sorting our guide, hotel, and transfers in advance. (Less on-the-ground stress means happier vacation for everyone.) The guide she picked for our family of four (me, dad, ten-year-old Will, and nine-year-old Kate) was the marvelous Serhan Gungor. He is part political scientist, part art historian, part personal shopper, and all-around foodie. Perfectly suited to the varied interests of our well-traveled family. Serhan met us with our kind driver for the weekend, Ali, whose discreet black van whisked us all over the city for the three absolutely incredible days.

Boats on the Bosphorous.

Summer houses of kings.

Kate and Will on the Bosphorous.

Passing the Topkapi Palace.

DAY 1: A Bosphorous Boat Ride

We checked into our hotel, The Four Seasons Bosphorous, which is ideally situated on the water, and immediately hit the outdoor patio for a lunch of grilled kebabs, mezzes, and the requisite grilled cheese sandwich (made with haloumi cheese and pita) for the kids. 

Promises were made for a swim in the hotel pool later that afternoon, and we were quickly whisked away on a private boat tour around the Bosphorous, a 20-mile-long strait which joins the Sea of Marmara and the Black Sea. A boat ride is the perfect way to explore the old and new cities of Istanbul, as well as the Asian side. We passed enormous bridges, summer houses of kings, freighters, and outdoor discos. We were all thoroughly delighted. Serhan talked us through the city's complex history as the former capital of both the Roman and Ottoman Empires, as well as Turkey's ever-changing political landscape. Best of all, he managed to make all of that understandable and enthralling for the 40-somethings and the under-10-year-olds alike.

Our first evening found us at the bustling House Café, an outdoor restaurant full of Turks and tourists, where festive music and smoke wafted throughout the terrace. (Kids will be fascinated — and righteous — about all the smoking that goes on in this country, so prepare yourself on this topic.) We feasted on thin crust pizzas, grilled sea bass (a local specialty), and delicious sumac and lentil salads. An easy stroll back through neighboring tchotchke shops and a Friday night traffic jam, and we all slept soundly in our slightly sterile yet blissfully silent suite. 

And Now a Word from the Kids 
Best Activity: "I liked the boat ride up and down the Bosphorous because it was an easy way to see a lot of the landmarks, and there was no traffic. It was very wavy the day we went, so this wouldn't be great for really little kids." – Kate

Most unexpected food: "Dondurma, which is a really thick ice cream.  It was so thick and chewy that the waiter had to cut it with a knife." – Kate

Biggest surprise: "That there were so many mosques and minarets all over the skyline. I thought there would be about five." – Will

Will at the Blue Mosque.

The Blue Mosque. Photo: Becky Cheang

Hagia Sophia. Photo: Dirk Heitepriem / Flickr

DAY 2: Mosques, Mezze, and Markets

The breakfast spread at this Four Seasons is of special note, with every imaginable delight from Turkish breads and Japanese specialties to perfect pancakes. And the staff is more than eager to grant your every wish. Children are doted on in Turkey, and this is particularly true at mealtimes in a fancy hotel.

After a full feast we headed for our first stop, The Sultan Ahmed, which is better known as The Blue Mosque for its beautiful blue tiled interior. Throughout the trip, our kids found particular delight in the calls to prayer that ring out five times per day to call Muslims to pray. These chants change in tempo and tone as the day goes on, so each call held new fascination for our kids.

The Blue Mosque was stunning with its Ottoman and Byzantine decorations, floral motifs, and gilt spaces, not to mention the spectacle of thousands of people taking their shoes off in the middle of a rainstorm to enter into the sacred and still functioning mosque. (Note to parents: Pack long pants. This is a Muslim country, and although it is very European in feel, knees should be covered.) The kids loved walking in their sock feet on giant Oriental carpets and seeing the elaborate chandeliers that illuminate this vast mosque.

With no time to waste, we headed for the nearby Hagia Sofia, a Byzantine gem that was once a church, a mosque, and is now a museum. No art history course has ever done this one justice, and we were all entranced by its massive dome, endless gold mosaics, and the natural light that floods the space.

Turkish delights at the Spice Market. Photo: Becky Cheang

Photo: Courtesy of Sur Balik

Serhan led us to a conveniently located (and pre-reserved) lunch spot, Karakol, within the nearby Topkapi Palace grounds. We refueled on more sea bass (when in Rome...), endless mezzes (some unidentifiable, all delicious), and a local favorite, kofte meatballs.

And then we went into sensory overload in the Spice Market. We stocked up on everything from tea to Turkish delight candy in delicate rose water and mint flavors, as well as evil eyes — glass charms that are meant to keep the wearer protected from the envious looks of others. We bought them in all forms — necklaces, holiday ornaments, and even pins, which the shopkeepers delight in bestowing upon small children for free.

This was followed up by a trip to the Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum. I feared this would push two tired kids over the edge. Instead, we found a manageable museum filled with carpets, intricately drawn Korans, and lifelike recreations of nomadic life. Delightful.

After a full day, the kids got to call the shots, so we retreated to the hotel pool. This is no small thing in a hot, crowded city, and it makes the Four Seasons Bosphorous a perfect pick for families, more so than the very urban Four Seaons Sultanahmet in the Old City. Our final stop of the night was Sur Balik, a four-story fish restaurant set in a historical building with distant water views. We loved picking our dinner from the catches of the day (sea bream, lobster, and fried calamari were all winners), sipping ice-cold Turkish raki (well, two of us), and capping it all off with baklava and the freshest figs imaginable.

Best Sight: "I thought the pet area outside the Spice Market was the coolest thing we saw. There were turtles the size of a quarter, chickens, buckets of leeches, and pigeons, too." – Will

Best food: "Turkish meatballs!" – Kate

One of many aisles in the Grand Bazaar. Photo: Frank Kovalchek / Flickr

DAY 3: The Grand Bazaar

Our third and final day was devoted to shopping the massive labyrinth of shops that is the Grand Bazaar. With more than 60 streets and 5,000 shops, this is not one to attempt on your own. It is, however, the place to score everything, especially fantastic scarves (Ottoamano for hand-painted silks and fatoush shawls) and peshtemal towels (inexpensive, thoroughly modern hammam towels made of fine cotton that make great hand towels). The Bazaar is organized into areas — jewelry, candy, rugs, slippers — which makes targeted buying very easy. My kids had a limited attention span for retail overload, but they did enjoy the haggling part of any purchase.

Our third and final night was spent at Ulus 29, a rather fancy restaurant located on a hilltop overlooking the Bosphorus and the bridge connecting the European and Asian sides of the city. This is definitely a white tablecloth-and-chandelier situation, but absolutely worth it for the sashimi and the stunning views. Ulus 29 has a traditional Turkish menu (kids will love their meatballs and mini pizzettes) as well as a full sushi bar with what must be the freshest fish I've ever tasted. After a dessert of homemade sorbets and pastries (even if you say "no, thank you," you will invariably and always be served sweets), we retreated to the hotel through the winding streets of the upscale Ulus neighborhood.  

Three days in Istanbul will allow you to taste the European and Asian flavors of the city, and to enjoy the intricate mix of ancient culture and incredible innovation. My mantra holds true: Leave wanting more.

Best Souvenir: "I liked shopping in the Grand Bazaar best because I got a tiny, glittering elephant jewelry box that is encrusted with little pearls. I'll keep it forever." – Kate

Total trip highlight: "Hagia Sofia, and the swimming pool, and the hot tub at the hotel were the best parts of this trip." – Will

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Fly: Istanbul Atatürk Airport (IST) is the city's main international airport and less than 15 miles away from the heart of Old Istanbul. You can take a taxi, bus, or metro in to the city for a reasonable price. There is also the Sabiha Gökçen International Airport (SAW) on the Asian side, servicing mostly budget European airlines.

Visa: Depending on your nationality, you may need a visa to enter the country (U.S. passport holders need one). You can either queue for it upon arrival before going through passport control, or apply and pay online prior to your trip.

MAP IT

See all locations mentioned in this story on a map. (Google Maps)

MORE ON FATHOM

Falling in Love with Istanbul
Stephanie March: Istanbul Diary
Hometown Debrief: BEATRIXE in Istanbul

Live Like an A-Lister in the Heart of Beverly Hills

Contributing editor Christina Ohly is no stranger to the world's best hotels, but she just may have had her mind blown during a recent stay in Beverly Hills.

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LOS ANGELES – For anyone interested in mingling with Hollywood's industry elite there is no better place to be than the Peninsula Beverly Hills — on any given day of the week, at any time of day or night. But it's during awards season — the period from January through March that includes the Golden Globes (early January), the Screen Actors Guild Awards (late January), and the Oscars (late February) — that this particularly special Peninsula really shines in all its star-studded, high-wattage glory.

From its power position in the heart of Beverly Hills (it never hurts to be next to CAA headquarters, after all) to its relaxed rooftop pool setting, to two of the best restaurants in town, the staff at the Peninsula Beverly Hills never makes a false step. The attention to detail begins at check-in, when I was recently greeted with a thoroughly rare and endearing question: "Would you like a late check-out?" First question! Every service touchpoint from there was over-the-top in the best possible way, and my quiet garden view allowed for the most restorative sleep I've had all year.

Claim to Fame

Ridiculous food and people-watching. First and foremost is the Roof Garden, where healthy SoCal cuisine meets comfort food in the form of egg white omelets, pressed juices made with goji berries and yuzu, the signature cobb salad, and crispy frites — all served under chic umbrellas. The adjacent tables will invariably be packed with hitters: agents, actors, and yoga-toned beauties all call this their canteen. The Roof Garden is quintessential California fabulousity.

The Belvedere's specacular terrace. Photo courtesy of the Peninsula Beverly Hills.

What's New

The recently opened Belvedere, a Mediterranean restaurant with one of the most beautiful patios in town, adds to dining delights. The mezze-heavy menu begins with fattoush salads and Greek-inspired taramasalata for dipping freshly baked pita and stars delicious lamb tagine and a monkfish osso bucco that I won't soon forget. The portions are enormous and satisfying, but I fell on my sword (all in the name of research…) and went for the dessert sampler of compotes and artistic creations that rival the restaurant's world-class art collection. The work of Yayoi Kusama, Sean Scully, Josef Albers, Alex Katz, and Robert Indiana enliven the walls and add to an incredible experience for breakfast, lunch, or dinner.

What's on Site

The Peninsula is a tech-focused hotel company, so you'll find the best here in terms of TV, seamless WiFi, state-of-the-art telephones, and bathroom technologies. The amenities are similarly top-notch, and The Peninsula Spa is destination-worthy — particularly leading up to any awards night, so book well in advance if you want to jostle the nominees out of their appointments. Two treatments are of special note: Precious Ruby Massages ($410/120 minutes) include dry body brushing followed by a gardenia- and ylang ylang-scented scrub, topped off with a hydrating rose clay wrap and a killer foot massage. The Organic Oxygen Facial ($285/60 minutes) is a lovely post-flight pick-me-up, turning complexions from dull to dewy.

It's all about lines around the rooftop pool. Photo by Christina Ohly.

The food, and the lively Living Room bar scene, the spa, the pool with its secluded cabanas, and the curated shops (including 100% Capri for that forgotten bikini) ensure that you really don't need to leave the premises. Unless, of course, you've been nominated in the film or television category or are holding tickets for the red carpet extravaganza.

The Food

As discussed, the food is excellent in all restaurants and lounges, but the Roof Garden is my favorite for California classics. The views of Century City beyond, not to mention the industry titans quietly talking shop at the surrounding tables, add to the breezy vibe. The dinner wait staff at Belvedere couldn't be more attentive and animated. (The waiter/actor factor in LA ensures meals are lively). 

The Grand Deluxe Suite bedroom, also known as the "blue room." Photo courtesy of the Peninsula Beverly Hills.

A most extravagant fruit cup. Photo by Christina Ohly.

In the Room

The 195 rooms and suites range from standard guest rooms to private villas placed around the property gardens. There is nothing "standard" about this category at The Peninsula, where the thread counts are high, the heavy wooden furniture feels regal, and the welcome amenity includes a lavish fruit platter, chocolates, cookies, and more. This isn't an afterthought, but rather an appreciated meal at the end of any long day.

Best of all are the bathrooms. Even in a basic room category, the lavish marble set-ups are bigger than most NYC apartments. Deep soaking tubs, spacious showers with all kinds of settings, plush terry robes, well-stocked vanity kits (with extras such as hand sanitizer), and a television stream mean that you can blow dry your hair and listen to CNN at the same time.

This Place Is Perfect For

Anyone with red carpet tastes — and a budget to match. Villa suites (from $1,900) work well for families, superior rooms (from $575 per night) are ideal for business travelers. The Beverly Suite (from $1,500) is spacious, with a separate sitting space and scenic views. I stayed in a deluxe room (#209) that was quiet and a little dark (in a good way), overlooking palm fronds.

CHECKING OUT

Neighborhood Vibe

Set in the heart of the Golden Triangle, this is the place to get your shop on: Barneys, Neiman Marcus, and Rodeo Drive are just steps away. No one really walks (anywhere) in Los Angeles, so don't be shy about taking advantage of the hotel's fleet of complimentary cars for area trips. The Rolls Royce is the swankiest; the Minis are more ego- and eco-friendly.

If you must drive, drive in style. Photo by Christina Ohly.

Speaking of Cars

It's all about Uber in LA. It's much cheaper than taxis, though those are plentiful, too. Just don't rent a car. When you factor in the valet costs, parking tickets, and traffic headaches, and the nightmare that car rental is at LAX, calling a ride is a no-brainer. That said, a rental car can be delivered and picked up at the hotel for approximately the same daily rate.

What to Do Nearby

The Los Angeles Country Museum of Art (LACMA) is always a highlight for innovative exhibitions and for its permanent James Turrell installation; ditto the Hammer Museum and MOCA which are within a small radius. Further up the coast, The Getty Center is a must (use of the hotel's Infiniti cars for the scenic journey), and book ahead at Nobu in Malibu, one of his best spots anywhere in the world.

Beverly Hills is home to classic, old-school restaurants like the Polo Lounge and the downstairs soda fountain at the Beverly Hills Hotel, the original Matsuhisa, Nate n' Al delicatessen, and Spago. I also loved Curtis Stone's Maude and Republique. It's in Hancock Park, but worth the drive for the castle-like setting (it was once home to Nancy Silverton's beloved Campanile).

Good to Know

Don't be afraid to ask for upgrades. They are so accommodating at this particular Peninsula that they'll happily oblige if space allows. I speak from experience.

BOOK IT

Rates begin at $575 per night and go up sharply from there.

The ‘King’ of Lake Como Shares Where to Go On and Off the Water

Daniele Riva, scion of the legendary boat-making family, knows his way around every corner of the lake.

Even in Italy, where seemingly every business has been in the family forever, Cantiere Ernesto Riva stands out. The Lake Como–based boatyard was founded in 1771 to transport the area’s gray limestone to Milan for the construction of the Duomo. Today, sixth-generation boatbuilder Daniele Riva continues the work of his father (and grandfather and...), painstakingly crafting wood-hulled boats by hand. Though the brand is best known for the glamorous 1950s mahogany motorboats that were synonymous with la dolce vita, Riva is continually nudging it forward, like with his recent collab with Spanish architect Patricia Urquiola on custom boats for Il Sereno hotel. Here, he taps into nearly 300 years of institutional knowledge to share his favorite spots on the lake.

WHERE TO PULL UP

From the Water
“Villa La Cassinella, Richard Branson’s spectacular property in Lenno, is best seen by boat. So is the little island of Comacina—it has just one restaurant, the Locanda dell’Isola Comacina, which serves beautiful lake trout. If you do a tour, use Como Classic Boats and request Duilio—no one knows the lake better!”

Rooms with Views
“The very modern Il Sereno hotel in Torno is the best for floor-to-ceiling lake views. For a more historic feel, there’s the grand Villa d’Este in Cernobbio or the sweet Hotel Rusall in Tremezzina.”

House and Garden
“The 18th-century Villa del Balbianello in Lenno is magnificent; Casino Royale was shot there. So is the Villa Carlotta in Tremezzina. Both are now museums with sprawling gardens open to the public.”

The Long Lunch
“In the midlake village of Bellagio, right next to I Giardini di Villa Melzi, is Ristorante alle Darsene di Loppia. It’s classy, but not stuffy. I’ll have a fresh crudo lunch and then wander the grounds.”

Lee F. Mindel, FAIA

Touring Lake Como in northern Italy by boat (like this vintage wood launch hired in Cernobbio) is the best way to see the many grand villas and historic towns that line its shores. Related: 10 New Exotic Retreats Around the World

Café Culture
“The best espresso and croissants, not just in Italy but in the world, are from Pasticceria Poletti in Cernobbio.”

The Bring Back
“For leather belts and bags, I like L’Arte di Modellare Il Cuoio in Como. Laura Epifani in Cernobbio is the place for shoes and boots.”

Apertivo Hour
“Da Luciano in Laglio is a former butcher shop that serves outstanding bresaola—so soft and tasty, especially with a glass of red wine from the nearby Inferno region. Harry’s Bar—no relation to the other Harry’s—in Cernobbio does a great Aperol spritz.”

Like Nonna Makes
“Trattoria del Porto near the pier in Careno is a family affair—two brothers serve creamy risotto, perch, and misultin, a local whitefish that’s dried in salt and placed under a weight all winter. I swear it’s delicious.”

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A long weekend in Cartagena with Lauren Santo Domingo

Old-world chapels and high-design hotels, 2am salsa and island afternoons: the Moda Operandi founder tells Christina Ohly Evans how to savour the Colombian city.

Colombians are very proud and protective of their culture, and I think there’s nowhere that is more apparent than in Cartagena, the coastal city where all the country’s beauty, culture and character have been retained. When I started coming here 18 years ago there was an element of a narco-terrorist state about the place, and for me that fear only added to the intrigue and excitement. But Cartagena is now much safer; it’s a Unesco World Heritage Site and it’s full of beautiful Spanish colonial architecture, stylish cafés and design-led boutique hotels – with plenty of relaxed, tropical flavour.

The best time to visit is between December and April, and the weather at Christmas and New Year is just perfect. I also like the city in mid-November, because it is a time of local celebrations; beauty pageants, regattas and school holidays all make it feel festive. I like to manage expectations, though: Cartagena is not a beach resort à la Phuket or St Barths. It feels more like old San Juan in Puerto Rico – you won’t find P Diddy hobnobbing with the jet set, or flowing champagne, or any chic stores or familiar brands. It’s all very local and authentic, which makes it a pleasure to wander the picturesque plazas and streets. They’re lined with terracotta mansions and palaces, all in shades of pink and turquoise, their balconies dripping bright-pink bougainvillea. There is a touch of magical realism to the whole place.

The eclectic colours of Catedral de Cartagena | Image: Alamy

Whenever I direct friends to places to stay, Casa Pestagua – an intimate 11-suite former home furnished with 19th-century antiques – and the Hotel Sofitel Legend Santa Clara both top my list. The latter is located in a converted 17th-century monastery with many traditional design elements that have been combined with modern twists. Both have sleek rooftop or courtyard pools. These pools are key in Cartagena, because midday temperatures soar and the beach in town isn’t great for swimming. Most guesthouses and boutique hotels come with their own boat, chef and porter, so you can be whisked away to a local beach club, such as El Pescador de Colores, for lunch and a swim.

Cholon, a little island about a 45-minute boat ride away, is also a beautiful escape with pristine white-sand beaches, crystal-clear waters and thick mangroves. It’s relaxing just to watch sailboats pass by on their way to the Caribbean. There are small cafés in the bay that are accessible by boat, and they make ceviche and grilled lobster – and catch sea urchins – right before your eyes. You can drink from freshly split coconuts to get the full escapist experience.

The Hotel Agua is another excellent choice. It’s a colonial-era-turned-mod villa rental with six rooms. The 250-year-old, perfectly renovated Tcherassi Hotel, overseen by the incredibly stylish Silvia Tcherassi, is the most couture boutique hotel in town, the one that draws the international fashion crowd. Also lovely is Casa San Agustín – a rustic-chic 30-room hotel with historic frescoes, wooden balconies and old-world furnishings alongside more contemporary colours and other touches. The terrace offers sweeping views of the city, as well as the 300-year-old aqueduct that cuts right through the property. It’s a great spot for cocktails; I sent Poppy Delevingne here recently.

The perfect start to any day in Cartagena is a Colombian breakfast – preferably at El Centro, in the 16th-century old town, with its fortified walls. The local fruits – papaya, grenadilla, pink grapefruit, and fresh mandarin and watermelon juices – are unlike anything you’ve ever tasted. Arepas – eggs in corn tortillas – are another local speciality. Strong coffee is part of the culture, and it’s served from street carts throughout the day – along with abundant food, including delicious empanadas stuffed with spicy meat.

The rustic-chic Casa San Agustín hotel houses a 300-year-old aqueduct

Food is a major focus here, but shopping for artisanal things is another favourite pastime. I always tell friends to look for woven hammocks and mochilas, the traditional cross-body bags that are now so in fashion. Artesanías de Colombia is a wonderful resource, because all of the goods – textiles, pottery, furniture – are sustainable, with most made by Colombian women who support families living in areas ravaged by drug trafficking.

For more contemporary finds, head to Casa Chiqui, a souk-like store full of fun beachy things and unique hostess gifts overseen by the incredibly fashionable Chiqui de Echavarría, who I like to call the tropical Daphne Guinness. She has a huge assortment of products from all over the world, and it’s always exciting to see her latest finds. The expertly curated concept store St Dom is another favourite; there’s a striking selection of clothes and homewares by Colombian designers and it’s a lovely minimalist space. OndaDeMar has the best range of bikinis and stylish cover-ups in town. And for a night out, you’ll need a pair of the lavish costume earrings from Mercedes Salazar.

Cartagena’s old city is alive with colour and activity | Image: Finn Beales

The streets of Cartagena’s old town are primarily cobblestone, so heels are out – as are sequins or anything else too flashy. The vibe is a bit bohemian – always bright and playful – and quite relaxed, no matter where you eat or drink. One of my favourite restaurants is Juan del Mar, where everyone sits outside; there is live music and the crowd is always fun. It’s a very popular spot with the locals – don’t expect to have a quiet, candlelit meal here. But its pizzas are excellent; at the end of an evening, you may end up ordering one and starting your night all over again. La Mulata is a great spot for a casual lunch, with a mix of locals and tourists, and the daily set menu with a coconut lemonade on the side is outstanding.

The afternoon sun can be very strong, so the window from 4pm to 7pm is ideal for culture and sightseeing. I always tell people to start at the Zenú Gold Museum to see pre-Colombian jewellery and pottery. There are also many churches to explore – all situated along the city’s main plazas, prime examples of the Spanish colonial, baroque and republican architectural styles. One of the most beautiful – and the oldest in Cartagena – is the Iglesia de Santo Domingo, where my husband, Andrés, and I were married in 2008. It was built in the mid-16th century and has soaring ceilings. I matched my bridesmaids’ dresses to the rich salmon and pinky-beige colours of the stone walls. A brief stop here offers a cool break from the busy streets outside, which are almost always filled with musicians and performers of all kinds.

The unassuming La Cevichería offers outstanding dishes | Image: David Crookes

Then there’s the Catedral de Cartagena, one of the oldest episcopal sees in the Americas, as well as the Naval Museum, which is, appropriately, right by the sea. After a hefty dose of culture, you’ll want a snack from La Cevichería – an unassuming little shop situated on an alleyway that serves the freshest ceviche in little paper cups.

Because the days start so much later here – breakfast is never before 10am and dinners start at 10pm – I always advise a siesta before heading out. La Vitrola, for Cuban food and live music, is a must. This is the gathering spot for the crème de la crème of society, who come for both the air-conditioned bar and excellent dishes such as ropa vieja and camarones. This place is quite swanky by Cartagena standards, and there is a definite hierarchy to the tables: the closer you are to the bar and the band, the better. From there, it’s on to Café Havana around 1am, where everyone – regardless of class or age – mixes for fabulous mojitos and salsa dancing into the wee hours.

While there is so much to do in El Centro, there are also all kinds of incredible excursions. One is to hike up to Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas – the old fortress – for stunning views of the city below. A day trip by boat to the rustic Rosario Islands – Navega Colombia is an excellent charter service – is another highlight; and Playa Blanca, on Isla Baru, is the perfect place to do some deep-sea fishing or just disappear for a day.

Cartagena is an exotic city, and visiting here is an immersive experience – much like seeing Tokyo for the first time. Because it’s quite close to Jamaica, you’ll find a Caribbean flair mixed in with the Spanish elements, and an underlying African influence too. It all combines to create a city that’s historically remarkably rich – literally multilayered, like all the buildings that were originally painted in bright, tropical Caribbean colours and then whitewashed by the Spanish. And the incredible acoustics of the walled city, and the bustling plazas, and the unique sights and smells… the ambience here is like no other place on earth.

Strike London Hotel Gold at Charming, Posh (and Shockingly Affordable) Flemings Mayfair

Can it be? A gorgeous, centrally located, family-owned hotel in Central London that's actually affordable? Contributing editor and London regular Christina Ohly strikes hotel gold at Flemings Mayfair.

LONDON – Visitors to London are spoiled for choice when it comes to fantastic hotels, so I am always on the lookout for the latest, greatest, newest offering when I return to this city that I consider my second home. I tend to stay in more residential areas — Chelsea, Kensington, Notting Hill — but my latest favorite find is in the heart of Mayfair, tucked away on sweet Half Moon Street. I literally can't stop raving about this hidden gem.

Originally opened in 1851, Flemings Mayfair was converted from thirteen adjoining Georgian townhouses, which gives it an intimate, smaller feel than the other surrounding luxury hotels. I love the warmth of the place — the very personal greeting at check-in, the helpful concierges, the bartender in the Drawing Room who was happy to replenish my endless pots of tea — as well as the ease of access to everything from Piccadilly and the Green Park tube to the restaurants and shops of tony Mount Street.

Flemings Mayfair, which is still a family-owned hotel (a rarity in the luxury space) achieves the perfect balance of being very high-touch yet perfectly low-key.

CHECKING IN

Location
Just past Park Lane, mere steps from Green Park, Flemings Mayfair is set on quiet Half Moon Street, with several private apartments accessed by Clarges Street just round the corner. The surroundings feel very local and touristy at once, given the number of nearby sites. There's a small café at the end of the street, an independent bookseller and, Kiku, a delicious off-the-radar Japanese restaurant next door. Best of all, a mini Marks & Spencer around the corner carries the edible essentials (prawn crisps, chocolate chip cookies) that you might crave. Its location between Park Lane and Berkeley Square means multiple tube possibilities. Getting around on foot couldn't be easier.

Hotel Style
The hotel recently received a £14 million facelift courtesy of London-based interior design firm Tully Filmer. The results are a series of serene spaces throughout the 129 guest rooms, the jewel box Drawing Room bar, and subterranean Ormer Mayfair restaurant and Manetta's Bar. The sleek furnishings are in neutral hues, with the punches of aqua and rose gold adding cheerful flair.

High-ceilinged bedrooms often include Art Deco touches like desks and custom chairs made of dark sycamore as well as contemporary photography by Andy Gotts, MBE. The juxtaposition of the artist's portraits of Kate Moss, Kylie Minogue, Harrison Ford (many taken at the hotel) with period finishes isn't totally obvious, but it adds to the overall fun, personalized approach of the hotel.

This Place Is Perfect For
Flemings Mayfair is ideal for the business traveler because of its easy access to the City and surrounding Mayfair, and it would work equally well for the well-heeled tourist interested in the many excellent museums, restaurants, parks, and shops nearby.

What's on Site
The striking restaurant in the basement, Ormer Mayfair, helmed by Michelin-starred chef Shaun Rankin, is definitely a highlight. The inventive menu is full of Jersey-grown produce, meat, and fish. I loved the breakfast spread (excellent charcuterie and gluten-free options) as well as one late-night dinner of sweet lobster ravioli in crab and tomato bisque with shallots, followed by a dark chocolate brownie with sticky popcorn, salted caramel sauce, and ice cream. Nirvana! The wines selected by award-winning sommelier Andreas Rosendal were outstanding. Oenophiles will love selections like the magnum of 2009 Classic Cuvee from English estate Nyetimber, which can be enjoyed by the glass. Keep drinking at dark and moody Manetta's Bar, where the walls are lined with portraits of famous literary figures of yore like Gertrude Stein, Alice B. Toklas, and Oscar Wilde.

My favorite part of the hotel is the Indian-inspired Drawing Room, done in conjunction with The East India Company. It's the perfect place to sip Darjeeling and work on the laptop. Hand-painted de Gournay wall panels in jewel tones, velvet seats, shelves of Assouline books, and a crackling fire add to the clubby ambience.

While I am not likely to use it, I am a fan of having a gym on premises (option value when dealing with jet lag), and the gym here is clean, light, and state-of-the-art. Nothing over the top — just four machines, sets of weights, and a TV — but it is a rare find for a hotel of this size in central London.

Number of Rooms
There are 129 bedrooms, suites, and apartments, with a top floor penthouse that sleeps six and has a private lift and roof terrace for entertaining al fresco. The Townhouse features several beautifully appointed bedrooms and can be booked in a series of suites or taken over as a whole property. Junior suites and studio suites, as well as one-, two-, and three-bedroom apartments accessible via Clarges Street round out the slightly quirky offerings. This lack of uniformity adds to the charm: No two rooms are exactly alike, and you feel like you're staying in someone's opulent, velvet-swathed home, circa 1932, if 1932 had modern everything.

In-Room Amenities
The mark of any good hotel is free, excellent WiFi, and Flemings Mayfair has this covered. Ditto the mini-bar stocked with Cadbury's chocolate and the vast marble bathrooms with Miller Harris amenities. Discreet flat-screen TVs include hundreds of channels (literally) and don't detract from the Zen design scheme. If you don't want to lose yourself to the tube, spend a few hours flipping gorgeous hardcover volumes of Penguin classics. While it may be hipped-up, this is England, so there is definitely no yoga mat in the closet.

Perhaps the most unique in-room offering is a complimentary gin bar. I can't stand the stuff, but the idea of my own bar comprised of five different gins (including Flemings' own signature blend) curated by spirits experts Joel Harrison and Neil Ridley almost won me over.

Drawbacks
The only drawback is that some of the rooms are a bit small and dark side. This is London, so many of the rooms are courtyard-facing, and on a dreary day…well, it can be a bit dreary. Looked at another way, these same rooms are particularly excellent for quiet, uninterrupted sleep.

Standout Detail
The standout details for me all involved impeccable service: the helpful front desk person who graciously checked me in at 11 a.m., even though I wasn't due until 2 p.m. Another striking personality was the bartender in the Drawing Room, who happily accommodated everyone from afternoon tea drinkers to late-night champagne enthusiasts. I cannot forget the concierge who arranged for the delivery of my work-related packages to various locations throughout the city, seemingly free of charge (I'm still waiting for this bill).

Manetta's Bar.

Lunch from another era. Photo by Niall Clutton.

CHECKING OUT

Mayfair has it all — great shopping, beautiful Georgian architecture, picture-perfect mews, and some of the world's finest museums and restaurants. There is a mix of outdoors — parks, sidewalk cafes, and the ubiquitous pubs that spill out in the streets in warm weather — as well as culture, so there is literally something for everyone within a half-mile radius of the hotel.

What to Do Nearby
This is prime London park territory, and two of my favorites — flower-filled Green Park and St. James' — are basically across the road, and Hyde Park is a stone's throw away. Nearby museums include Buckingham Palace, The Royal Academy of Art, The National Gallery, and The Wallace Collection.

Some of the world's best galleries are in Mayfair, including David Zwirner, Gagosian, and the recently opened Marian Goodman Gallery. Shoppers will be in heaven with everything from the established luxury houses along Bond Street (Chanel, Bulgari, Hermès) to more niche finds like the French designer Vanessa Bruno, whose two-story shop on Grafton Street is full of chic, functional finds. Selfridge's, with its impressive food hall and endless array of clothing and accessories, is still the superstore to end all superstores.

The restaurant options within a half mile span the globe from Italian to Lebanese and range in style from scene-y (Asian fusion Sexy Fish) to classic (Scott's, The Wolseley, Helene Darroze at the Connaught, and The Ritz), to cheap and cheerful (Itsu). In terms of (relatively) newer area additions, Mount Street Deli is the place for a casual breakfast, with its beautiful flora outside, while lunch at Selfridge's — particularly when they host interesting pop-ups, like Dan Barber's recent wastED residency — is always worthwhile. High tea feels like an American construct, but if you must, there is no better venue than Claridge's: The pastries, sandwiches, and fresh infusions in that magical, Art Deco setting just can't be beaten.

Lunches in Mayfair can vary between an affordable chicken schwarma wrap and a full-on, four-course feast at La Petite Maison, a Provençal delight tucked just behind Claridge's. Another long-standing gem is Ikeda on Brook Street, where you'll find seriously authentic Japanese food with little fanfare. The best tables in this part of town include members clubs like 5 Hertford, The Arts Club, and George, so if you can score an invitation, know that the quinoa salads and people-watching are both unparalleled.

Evenings should always include a drink at The Connaught Bar — the best ambience in London, I think — followed by dinner at Sexy Fish or Roka (for sushi) or at Fera at Claridge's if you're feeling seriously adventurous (be prepared for funky, foraged ingredients). The classics remain just that, and the Dover sole at Scott's and contemporary Indian cuisine at Gymkhana are all worth a stop.

Good to Know
I wish I'd known about this hotel earlier, as it really offers good value for money. It is chic, quiet, understated yet luxurious, with perfect attention to detail. I would also highlight the restaurant — and not just to hotel guests — as I feel it gets a little lost for its underground location. Which is too bad, as it is a remarkable culinary experience.

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Top Chefs Take Over St. Moritz’s New Norman Foster-Designed Dining Room

The historic Kulm Hotel in the Swiss Alps goes cutting edge.

(Photo: Daniel Martinek)

St. Moritz has long reigned as the European capital of wintertime indulgence, where the stream of private jets carrying business titans, film stars, and royals is as common a sight as the snowy pistes above the Engadine Valley. It’s the kind of place where the atmosphere is described as “champagne” and Cartier sponsors an annual polo match atop a frozen lake. The Kulm Hotel has served as the place to see and be seen for more than 160 years, hosting events at two Olympics and counting everyone from Charlie Chaplin to Alfred Hitchcock to Audrey Hepburn as guests.

But even grande dames need a refresh now and again, and who better to lead the charge than architect and part-time resident Norman Foster, whose firm, Foster + Partners, was commissioned to renovate the landmark. (A wing of guest rooms was recently given a makeover by French designer Pierre-Yves Rochon.) “This project is very close to my heart,” Foster says. “The old building had been abandoned for many decades. I saw a great opportunity to revitalize the hotel and this part of town by bringing it back to life.”

At the center of the restoration lies Kulm Country Club, a pop-up restaurant that hosts a rotating slate of chefs with award-winning pedigrees. Switzerland-bred Daniel Humm, of the Michelin three-starred Eleven Madison Park in New York, kicked things off in January. In February, the kitchen was helmed by Nenad Mlinarevic, the 2016 Gault Millau Chef of the Year, who is turned out unfussy classics like pork belly steamed buns, “just like I eat at home,” he says. In March, Italian-Argentine chef Mauro Colagreco, of the Michelin two-starred Mirazur in Menton, France, will close out the season by serving up his vibrant, produce-centric cuisine. “I try to take out the green of the vegetables and express that on the plate,” Colagreco says. 

Each menu will be served in a space lined with regional materials—such as larch, ash, oak, and walnut—detailed in a contemporary style. St. Moritz’s sporting heritage is referenced by vintage bobsleighs suspended from the ceiling, black-and-white skiing photographs, and assorted winter memorabilia—just enough kitsch to solidify its ski chalet credentials.

Outside, clean-lined wood pavilions with copper-edged curves add strikingly modern structures to the historic grounds. “In winter, parents can have a coffee at the bar and watch their children skate; in summer, terraces offer the perfect vantage point for viewing events such as the Classic Car Meet,” Foster says. “This will become a new gathering place for the community.” New, yes, but for the longtime visitors to St. Moritz, happily familiar.

SURFACE

A long weekend in Kuala Lumpur with Jean-Michel Gathy

The Brussels-born architect shares culinary highlights, clean green spaces and local craft troves in his adopted hometown with Christina Ohly Evans. Portrait by Ian Teh

What makes Kuala Lumpur special is its people. They’re a wonderful mix of Malay, Chinese and Indian, all considered equally important, so everyone is kind to each other. They are genuinely friendly and welcoming, and since everyone speaks English, a visit is very easy. The racial mix means a rich variety of foods, types of worship, ways of dressing and also, of course, different kinds of architecture. The diversity, tolerance and acceptance of everyone: these are the city’s most powerful assets.

The dramatic golden statue at Batu Caves | Image: Getty Images/EyeEm

If you like celebrations – and particularly fireworks – then this is the place, as there are holidays and festivals for the country’s myriad faiths throughout the year. Because of its variety of religions, Malaysia has earned itself the reputation of having one of the highest numbers of public holidays in the world. And in KL, there’s almost always something fun going on.

Because Malaysia was a British colony until 1957, the courts of law, the infrastructure, the police and the medical systems are all very balanced, much like you’d find in western Europe. Despite Kuala Lumpur’s lush, tropical feel – we’re basically on the equator – with the jungle that surrounds the city, you will still feel quite at home here as a foreigner.

Passage Thru India restaurant, which has a magical atmosphere and a memorable prawn masala

The city is a bit like Singapore in terms of its urban landscape, but I think of it as a more of a residential-feeling, cosy place. We have rain every day, which is good for the palm trees, the many golf courses and our public parks, and because we’re so close to the sea – it’s just 30km away – I think KL must be the world capital for incredibly dramatic lightning. I often recommend the very central Shangri-La hotel, not just because my office is there, so I gravitate towards it, but because everyone is drawn to the buzzing lobby. I’m a big fan of its Japanese restaurant, Zipangu, where the uni sushi is fantastic, but so is the hotel’s Sunday brunch in the Lemon Garden restaurant. Next to the city-centre KLCC Park, just below the iconic Petronas Twin Towers, is the Mandarin Oriental, where rooms with floor-to-ceiling windows overlook all the greenery, and there are great views from its MO Bar too. I think it’s the best location in the city – but almost as good is the Grand Hyatt, which is just 300m from the towers and has a very contemporary look.

Malacca has many ornate temples and makes for a great day trip out of Kuala Lumpur | Image: Alamy Stock Photo/Adrian Baker

KL has many suburbs, and each has a weekly market with a mix of Malay, Chinese and Indians selling goods of all kinds. In Petaling Jaya, for example, you’ll find day and night markets with every single kind of fruit and an abundance of vegetables. But the fish stalls are the stars – it’s not so much about the butcher here – and they sell everything from seabass to prawns to rock lobsters, as well as famous local dishes: nasi goreng, or fried rice, and nasi lemak, a mixture of rice with coconut milk, cucumber, chicken or seafood, and egg, which is delicious.

The lobby of the city’s Shangri-La hotel is a popular meeting place

People don’t really entertain at home in Malaysia, so restaurants with all types of cuisine to choose from are plentiful. To enjoy real Malay food, I send people to Bijan, for the nice ethnic feel – soft lighting, stone floors and wooden screens; it’s quite romantic – and the classic kerabu pucuk paku, the local fiddlehead fern salad, which is very good. The Chinese restaurants here tend to be the opposite: overlit, quite noisy and always very showy. But South Sea Seafood in Kampung Baru Subang and Hakka Restaurant in Jalan Kia Peng are both reliably good – bright and festive, and offering good versions of standards like spring rolls and stir-fried crab. The Indian restaurants here are visual feasts, always red or pink – they worship these colours! – with lots of gold decoration. The best place for prawn masala and all kinds of roti is Passage Thru India, with its magical, slightly exotic atmosphere. 

One of the best go-to restaurants in general, though, is Marini’s on 57, a lively Italian spot on the 57th floor of a building next to the Petronas Twin Towers – from the terrace, it feels as if you could touch them. The cocktail bar has good music and is always full of stylish people – it’s the place to be. And the founder of the restaurant, Cavaliere Modesto Marini, has another restaurant called Marble 8 that serves the best steak in town. 

There are so many cultural highlights in KL, but top of the list is the Hindu temple Sri Mahamariamman. It’s the oldest (and richest) temple in Kuala Lumpur, founded in 1873 at the edge of Chinatown, on Jalan Tun HS Lee. The Batu Caves is another Indian temple in the limestone hills near the city; it’s in a very dramatic grotto and has a tall golden statue at the base of a staircase that leads visitors up to the snug cave temple. It’s not for everyone, because it can be a messy walk, but I think it’s really worth making the trip. The city’s main mosques – Masjid Jamek Sultan Abdul Samad and the National Mosque of Malaysia – are both must-sees; the latter is set in 13 beautiful manicured acres and holds 15,000 people. And my golfing friends are always happy about the 15 courses within about a 10km radius of town, including the famous Kuala Lumpur Golf & Country Club, where they host PGA and LPGA tournaments.

For real local immersion, I always recommend Bangsar Shopping Centre, where you’ll find a little of everything: spa and beauty products, clothes, shoes and a massive food hall. It has a very local feel – it’s not at all about big chain stores. One of my favourites to browse in is Jasons, the food hall, which has other locations in Singapore and Hong Kong and is basically a department store for all things edible. The huge selection and incredible lighting make it special, and its mangoes, my favourite fruit, are the best. For jewellery that’s influenced by Asian culture and mythology, it has to be Lotus Arts de Vivre: it makes use of raw natural materials – seeds, coconut shells, scarab wings, ebony and precious woods, sea shells, bamboo – and you’ll see wonderful examples of traditional craft techniques.

It’s well worth exploring KLCC Park in the middle of town. It isn’t Hyde Park or Central Park, but it is 20 beautiful hectares and makes the city feel so clean. It’s a wonderful place for children to play and there are running tracks too. For a city escape, take a day trip to Malacca. It’s just 120km south of KL and, since it was variously a Dutch, Portuguese and British colony, there’s an unusual mix of architecture with many ornate temples and a lovely harbour.

Kuala Lumpur is growing rapidly – we have good subways, elevated trains and everything is wired, which makes a visit here very user-friendly. But I hope it keeps its private, slightly homey feel, because when things get too urban, you lose the intimacy. Most of all, I love the genuine kindness of the people; they are what will continue to make it such a special place.

Switzerland's Kulm Hotel Expansion Draws Michelin-Starred Chefs and Sports Fanatics

The historic Ice Pavilion in St. Moritz gets an upgrade, courtesy of Pritzker Prize-winner Norman Foster, with new modern, cantilevered sports venues and a world-class restaurant.

Visitors to Switzerland’s Engadine Valley—home to high-end ski haven St. Moritz at 6,000 feet—have a new destination to consider, thanks to the opening of the Kulm Country Club at the storied Kulm Hotel. Following a £9 million (USD $11.3 million) renovation and expansion of the original Ice Pavilion—a two-story structure built in 1905 that figured prominently in the 1928 and 1948 Olympic Games—as well as a serene oak-paneled restaurant, lounge, and sprawling sun terrace, the new spaces will create a vibrant arts and events hub for the entire Alpine community.

“I have lived in St. Moritz for many years, so this project is very close to my heart,” says Lord Foster of the year-long project, inspired by “the sporting heritage of the region. "It connects with the history of the building, while adapting it for new uses.” Designed to enhance the flourishing arts and athletics scene in the perpetually chic ski resort, the Foster + Partners buildings have been reimagined using larch, ash, and oak—local timber in keeping with the tradition of the region. The results are spare, light-filled spaces that showcase the Kulm’s vintage sports memorabilia—bobsleighs, skis, photographs, and assorted artifacts—and capitalize on the breathtaking mountain views beyond.

One of the most exciting aspects of the Kulm project is the permanent pop-up restaurant concept that will kick-off with multi-Michelin-starred Daniel Humm of Eleven Madison Park, followed by inventive takes on bistro classics courtesy of 2016’s Gault Millau Chef of the Year, Nenad Mlinarevic, for the month of February. Next up in the rotating residency line-up will be chef Mauro Colagreco, of two Michelin-starred Mirazur in the south of France, who will prepare his signature South American-inflected, Mediterranean specialties that are vegetable-centric and focused on simple (yet striking) color and flavor combinations.

“Designed in the spirit of a mini stadium,” says Foster, of the multipurpose pavilion overlooking the expansive skating rink, “it is envisaged as the focus of the annual calendar of sporting and cultural events such as the medal ceremonies for the World Ski Championships in February (6–19), the Festival da Jazz, and the British Classic Car Meeting in summer.” The restaurant and lounge will complement these Kulm Park events, and, as Foster hopes, “become a new social space for the community, a place for everyone to come together and celebrate.”

The Sweet Life in London's Best — and Craziest! — Mega-Suites

Hotel maven Christina Ohly fills us in on London suites fit for the queen.

LONDON – Whether you're traveling with a large posse or just want to live like a potentate, book one of these sprawling, amenity-laden suites at London's top hotels for a stay to remember. Bring your checkbook — or preferably someone else's. And note that although we list prices, hotel rates always fluctuate. Though you know what they say: If you have to ask what it costs...

Photo courtesy of The Connaught.

Photo courtesy of The Connaught.

The Apartment Suite at The Connaught

Location: Mayfair

The Digs: Situated on the hotel's top floor and designed by David Collins Studio, the stately study in soothing blue tones has a working wood-burning marble fireplace, a double-height sitting room, and a vast library.

The Wow Factor: Michelin-star chef Hélène Darroze will create menus for your bespoke, in-room dinner party.

USP: The Champagne Room downstairs and the ability to have the best fashions – Lanvin, Balenciaga, Christian Louboutin – placed in your dressing room prior to arrival are all pluses.

The Spend: from $16,959

Photo courtesy of Rosewood Hotels.

Photo courtesy of Rosewood Hotels.

The Manor House Suite at Rosewood London

Location: High Holborn

The Digs: A 1,991 square foot Zen sanctuary designed by Tony Chi. It’s about light-filled sitting spaces, neutral finishes, king-sized beds with Rivolta Carmignani Italian linens, and a dedicated champagne fridge. 

Wow Factors: The suite can be booked with five adjoining rooms to create an entire Manor House Wing, with a private entrance on High Holborn.

USP: The sprawling, sumptuous suite has its own post code.

The Spend: from £9,500

Photo courtesy of The Lanesborough.

Photo courtesy of The Lanesborough.

The Royal Suite at The Lanesborough

Location: Knightsbridge

The Digs: Seven resplendent bedrooms spread across 4,800 square feet make this one of the most lavish setups in town. Two Albert Pinto-designed sitting rooms with floor-to-ceiling windows afford views of Wellington Arch and Buckingham Palace Gardens.

The Wow Factors: 24-hour butler service, a private entrance, a dedicated Rolls Royce, and endless amounts of marble and gilt make this a stunner fit for Louis XIV.

USP: The hotel's Library Bar is one of London's best spots to sip rare cognacs, while Michelin-starred restaurant Celeste offers a sublime menu by chef Steeven Gilles.

The Spend: from £18,000

Book It

Photo courtesy of The Savoy.

Photo courtesy of The Savoy.

The Royal Suite at The Savoy

Location: The Strand

The Digs: The two-bedroom suite overlooking the Thames has a rotating contemporary art program, so you don't even need to leave for your culture fix. Opened in spring 2016, the digs have soothing, cream-colored interiors by Pierre-Yves Rochon and Edwardian furnishings that evoke the hotel's rich history.

The Wow Factor: The views of the river and London's iconic landmarks are stunning. This was the vista that inspired Claude Monet to paint his series of London bridges, which he completed during his three long-term stays in the suite between 1899 and 1901.

USP: The 24-hour butler service is unrivaled, as are the delicious dry martinis in the Art Deco-inspired American Bar.

The Spend: from £17,000

Photo courtesy of COMO Metropolitan London.

Photo courtesy of COMO Metropolitan London.

COMO Suite at COMO Metropolitan London

Location: Park Lane

The Digs: Completely renovated in 2015, this spacious accommodation has floor-to-ceiling views of Hyde Park, even from the bathroom. For anyone in search of a peaceful, zen aesthetic (think light oak floors and neutral textiles), the sleek COMO outpost delivers.

The Wow Factors: A sitting room, pantry, and dining area that are big enough for a family of four make for the perfect jumping-off point for London sightseeing, meetings in Mayfair, or quiet meals in Shepherd's Mews just behind the hotel.

USP: Nobu downstairs means signature black cod with miso at all hours. Enough said.

The Spend: £2750

Photo courtesy of The Berkeley Hotel.

Photo courtesy of The Berkeley Hotel.

Opus Suite at The Berkeley Hotel

Location: Knightsbridge

The Digs: A muted green tea palette and original Asian furniture and art by interior designer Andre Fu fill the expansive space. A master bedroom, living room, study, full kitchen, and dining room make this a perfect, no-holds-barred pied-à-terre for an extended stay (or a serious lie-in).

The Wow Factor: The hotel's Blue Bar is still the height of cool, and the spa, with a pool overlooking Hyde Park, is destination-worthy.

Unique Selling Point: Michelin-star chef Marcus Wareing of in-house restaurant Marcus can be booked to prepare his stellar signature dishes en suite for parties of up to ten people.

The Spend: from $16,959

Photo courtesy of the Shangri-La Hotel.

Photo courtesy of the Shangri-La Hotel.

Shangri-La Suite at The Shangri-La Hotel at the Shard

The Location: Borough Market

The Digs: Set on level 39 of Renzo Piano's iconic skyscraper, the 2,000-plus square foot suite has it all: custom-made Italian furniture, silk-swathed walls, a dedicated chauffeur, private elevator access, 270-degree views, enormous marble bathrooms with heated floors, Bose sound systems, and spotting telescopes.

The Wow Factors: The specially designed Shangri-La bed featuring patented body-contouring technology is outfitted with sumptuous 1,000-threadcount Frette linens.

USP: Everything is personalized for you, from the stationery to Dine by Design meals prepared in your room's fully stocked kitchen.

The Spend: from $10,393

Photo courtesy of Hotel Café Royal.

Photo courtesy of Hotel Café Royal.

Dome Penthouse aat Hotel Café Royal

Location: Piccadilly Circus

The Digs: Three bedrooms, two furnished terraces, a living room, and marble dining table that seats six. An oasis of serene splendor.

The Wow Factors: The master suite is set beneath the hotel's iconic copper-domed rotunda, and the spacious suite features stunning views of Big Ben, the London Eye, the Houses of Parliament, and the Shard in the distance. Don't be afraid to use the LED projection system that illuminates the suite's dome. It's guaranteed to get the party started right.

USP: Thomas Kochs, the hotel's managing director, is the consummate hotelier/insider, and a person for whom no request is too big or too small.

The Spend: £14,000

Photo courtesy of Claridge's.

The Royal Suite at Claridge's

Location: Mayfair

The Digs: Victorian opulence is in full effect in this first floor, two-bedroom suite. Edwardian furnishings and a piano once owned by Richard D'Oyly Carte, builder of the Savoy, add to the intimate, historic ambience.

The Wow Factor: 19th-century French prints line the high-ceilinged dining room, creating a vibe that's Victorian with a sleek edge.

USP: Reservations at Fera, the ultimate farm-to-table restaurant downstairs, are easily booked, and the Fumoir remains the sexiest spot for champagne, oysters, and post-theatre conversation in central London.

The Spend: $6,663

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE

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Finding Southern Italian Hotel Charm in London

What happens when you bring Italian hospitality to a quiet London neighborhood?

LONDON – London may be the ultimate hotel town — with everything from luxurious, chintz-filled suites to bijou, boutique bolt holes — but there are surprisingly few options in SW3, the quiet residential area near Sloane Square in Chelsea where I used to live and prefer to stay. Needless to say, I am always happy to make a lodging discovery. My latest find isn't brand new, but it is under the radar due to its small size and low-to-no traffic location. My new home away from home is San Domenico House, an authentic, antiques-laden English charmer with a Puglian twist.

CHECKING IN

Overview

San Domenico House is a 17-room red brick Victorian home that was purchased in 2005 by the Melpignano family and lovingly transformed into a cossetting guest house just steps from the King's Road. (The same family owns Fathom Favorites Borgo Egnazia and Masseria San Domenico, five-star resorts in Puglia that are at the opposite end of the design spectrum.) Built in 1887 and established as the Sloane Hotel in 1991, the latest iteration of the hotel is a rare, slightly quirky find – making it ideal for travelers who like this part of town, favor peace and quiet, like to open the windows, or are traveling with older kids who will love the easy access to the shops, cafes, and parks of Chelsea. Spread across four floors, the rooms and suites are all individually designed, some with antique armoires, others swathed in toile du jouy fabrics. Some are bi-level; some have lovely terraces. But each makes guest feel like they are staying in someone's well-appointed house, with en-suite, modern bathrooms.

Book It

Rates start at £195. Click here for reservations.

Claims to Fame

San Domenico House is known for the art and antiques that have been lovingly curated by the elder Mrs. Melpignano. The public sitting room — sumptuous couches, serious oil paintings, roaring fire — is period perfect, so warm and inviting that I spent a Sunday morning reading the papers as natural light streamed in through the enormous, original windows.

Another point of differentiation is the staff: They're all Italian, and most from the same town in Puglia. This adds a sweet aspect to a stay here. Everyone is eager to please, to try their English, and to make you feel a part of their family, if only for a short while.

The deluxe suite terrace.

What's on Site

This is primarily a place to (peacefully) lay your head. No swanky bar and no spa, but there's a sweet breakfast room on the lower level. The staff takes great pride in serving everything from full English breakfasts to egg white omelettes (with a bit of translation required). The Deluxe Suite has a terrace overlooking the iconic townhouses and chimney pots of Chelsea. For my money, there's no better spot to enjoy a summer breakfast.

The Food

The breakfast offerings are excellent — fresh fruit, flaky croissants, and seriously strong coffee — and the sweet waiter will source whatever they don't have on hand (in my case, an icy Diet Coke which I think he had to run to the Sainsbury's to get, yet another gracious touch). Afternoon tea served in the main sitting room feels quintessentially English, right down to the overstuffed chairs and collection of antique silver. Lunch and dinner are available as is a nice room service option for late arrivals. The neighborhood has so many wonderful restaurants, from delicious Lebanese holes-in the-wall to fine dining establishments, that you'll want to walk the 500 yards to some of London's best meals.

A gallery suite bedroom.

Room with a View

There are 17 rooms in four categories. All have high ceilings and marble bathrooms; most have enormous bay windows, opulent draperies, and precious antiques. The Deluxe Suite is the top of the line, followed by Junior Suites decorated with vintage Louise Vuitton cases and gilt-framed paintings. Gallery Suites have a slightly regal vibe — velvet curtains with silk tie-backs, four-poster beds, and lots of rich red fabrics — while Deluxe Doubles have been designed in lighter palettes of cream and beige. Central air conditioning (still not the norm in small hotels), free WiFi, small flat screen TVs, and Molton Brown amenities round out the spare but practical room offerings.

This Place Is Perfect For...

Anyone who appreciates local color, Italian warmth, and good cheer. Just step outside the front door to see children going to nearby schools and people walking to the market. This is real London life, not busy, polished Mayfair. It's also perfect for anyone looking for an affordable, old-school weekend away or proximity to the shops and restaurants at the Brompton Cross.

But Not So Perfect For...

People with small children. You're living in close proximity, and no one needs the noise. Also not ideal for the sybarite in need of shiny, endless amenities, e.g. an on-site gym, vast room service offerings, or anyone with an aversion to heavy, slightly baroque décor. Consider this a very upscale B&B where you get real value for money.

Shake the London chill by the fire.

CHECKING OUT

Neighborhood Vibe

Chelsea is understated, well manicured, and definitely not the epicenter of the action in London. That said, it is full of beautiful architecture, particularly the white Georgian row houses with their colorful doors, and is also home to lovely parks and excellent restaurants. Staying in this part of town gives you a more local look at London life, and it's an easy jumping off point to nearby museums including the V&A and the Science Museum, the shops of Sloane Street, as well as the extremely cool Chelsea Physic Garden.

What to Do Nearby

Shopping is a major Chelsea highlight, and one of the best stores (anywhere) is the Conran Shop on Sloane Avenue. Not to be confused with the more mass Conran stores, this one-off is a highly edited, design-led emporium full of Eames and Saarinen furniture and the best letterpress cards, gifts, and accessories anywhere. Ideal for holiday gifts and stocking stuffers. Just steps away is the original Joseph boutique, a highly curated, multi-brand store with amazing fashions as well as practical pieces (pants and their signature sweater collections) at the annex across Walton Street.

Strolling the King's Road is a must, and Antiquarius is perfect for affordable vintage things, like Art Deco match strikers and silver picture frames, while Taschen Books in Duke of York Square has beautiful art and fashion-centric tomes. Muji is a must for desk accessories, as is Partridge's for snack foods. The massive Peter Jones is the place for practical, Union Jack-bedecked things.

Grab a picnic at Finns of Chelsea (prepared salads and sandwiches) and head for the slightly secret Chelsea Physic Garden or the Royal Hospital Gardens. Or have a light lunch at Itsu on Draycott Avenue. The best of this chain of restaurants, the Chelsea outpost has table service and a vibrant atmosphere. Other foodie highlights include Tom's Kitchen, noted chef Tom Aiken's comfort food spot; Manicomio for stylish breakfast, lunch or dinner with Italian flair; and Bibendum for celebratory lunches involving oysters. For excellent Lebanese food, I love Al Dar on the King's Road, where the chicken schwarma more than makes up for the ambience. For the best steak frites in town, go to La Brasserie, where the service is quite French. For a casual coffee or a light lunch, Baker & Spice is the place. Sit at a farmhouse table and order beautiful salads and baked goods, notably their enormous, signature meringues. This is a hip, farm-to-table spot that could easily flourish in the Berkshires or Williamsburg.

Good to Know

Chelsea closes early. Restaurants are finished by 10 p.m. and the streets get extremely quiet. On the plus side, the gastropubs are excellent (The Enterprise and Admiral Codrington are my favorites), flower vendors like Gilding the Lily are abundant, as are endless places for coffee including the café at Bibendum, Aubaine, and Poco.

Book It

Rates start at £195. Click here for reservations.

BUT WAIT THERE'S MORE

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Start the Day with the World's Best Hotel Breakfasts

Fresh-baked breads. Never-ending eggs. Extravagant pastry towers. Who doesn't love a sumptuous hotel breakfast? Certainly not Christina Ohly. The hotel-hopper extraordinaire put together a list of spreads worth traveling for, which include a few recommendations from Team Fathom. (We couldn't help it. We're equally obsessed.)

Everyone knows that breakfast is the most important meal of the day, something that rings true and clear during a hotel stay. My daughter Kate, who doubles as my intrepid travel companion, has pointed out on numerous occasions that a fine breakfast spread — and it doesn't have to be fancy, just delicious, beautiful, and even quirky — is often worth planning an entire trip around. With that in mind, here are a few of our most memorable morning meals.

The rooftop breakfast. Photo courtesy of La Scelta di Goethe.

La Scelta di Goethe

Where: Rome, Italy
What's to love: The small all-suite hotel — which is really more like a sumptuous private apartment — offers the most spectacular spread of cheeses, salami, muesli, fruit tarts, and freshly baked breads on its expansive private terrace. No one but you, with your deliciously strong pot of coffee, will be overlooking Villa Borghese, endless cupolas, and Vatican City in the distance. The peel of church bells and seagulls standing sentry adds to the lovely, very local vibe.
Check in: Book a Room

The carb-lovers breakfast. Photo courtesy of La Mamounia.

La Mamounia

Where: Marrakech, Morocco
What's to love: Start with the service. You'll never find kinder people offering fresh juices, strong coffee, and Moroccan mint tea infusions, all in a poolside pavilion setting with lush garden views. The breakfast spread is magnificent and very authentic. Local specialties including khobz (flatbread) with olive oil and jam, sweet rolls studded with anise and sesame seeds, a version of pancakes, as well as meats, cheeses, and all kinds of eggs cooked to order.
Check in: Book a Room

The Japanese-style vegetarian breakfast. Photo by Berit Baugher.

Hoshinoya Tokyo

Where: Tokyo, Japan
What's to love: Quite possibly one of the best room service breakfasts in existence can be experienced at this new ryokan-style hotel. A beautiful wooden box is brough to your suite by a kimono-clad attendant who carefully explains each small plate. Even though it will be hard to follow most of what she says, and even though you might never know what you're really eating, you'll be delighted by each and every bite.
Check in: Book a Room

The vegan petit dejeuner. Photo courtesy of La Réserve.

La Réserve

Where: Paris, France
What's to love: The signature vitality breakfast is a gluten-free, vegan take on a classic Paris petit dejeuner, with detox juice, lemon-ginger herbal tea, pastries, buckwheat and berry muesli with almond milk, avocado with hempseed gomasio, raw everything, and even a take on French toast with coconut butter. Fashion editors, designers, and the haute couture crowd flock to this Jacques Garcia-designed gem during Fashion Week. Be sure to book ahead.
Check in: Book a Room

The savory spread. Photo courtesy of The Ritz-Carlton Kapalua.

The Ritz-Carlton Kapalua

Where: Maui, Hawaii
What's to love: Fuel-up for a day of biking down the side of a volcano with a buffet extravaganza that includes all kinds of island specialties: POG (papaya, orange, and guava) juice, Portuguese sweet bread, and a seed bar — chia, flax, poppy, sesame — more comprehensive than the Whole Foods bulk bin isle. Fresh tofu, steamed rice, and a full salad bar add savory, healthy touches.
Check in: Book a Room

The healthy option. Photo courtesy of Claridge's.

Claridge's

Where: London, United Kingdom
What's to love: Everything. The Art Deco setting, pots of proper Sri Lankan teas (theirs is bespoke), and all kinds of delicious dishes like vegan scrambled tofu on rye bread with tempeh, pork gyoza, and prawn dumplings from the Chinese menu, and flaky, gluten-free croissants. The chocolate coconut whey protein smoothies can't possibly be healthy, but sides of chicken sausage, grilled tomatoes, and wilted spinach most definitely are. Everything's to love about the old-school full English breakfast, complete with an omelette of fine herbs, granary toast, and fresh pink grapefruit juice. Plus, the people-watching is unparalleled.
Check in: Book a Room

The fashionista's choice. Photo courtesy of Four Seasons Hotel Milano.

Four Seasons Hotel Milano

Where: Milan, Italy
What's to love: The hotel has a completely different feel and clientele than most Four Seasons. Many fashion editors and other generally fabulous Fashion Week attendees have created demand for the Taste & Shine breakfast, comprised of freshly pressed juices and gluten-free everything, served while getting a quick-dry, or express-dry, manicure. Hungrier types will want to head to the dining room, where, on weekends, there is a special room dedicated to chocolate creations.
Check in: Book a Room

The best of Sicilian summer. Photo by Jeralyn Gerba.

Monaci delle Terre Nere

Where: Sicily, Italy
What's to love: Breakfast is served under a canvas canopy on a terraced hillside of pine and olive trees. The bounty is the best of Sicily in the summer: bowls of stone fruit, glass jars of sheeps' milk yogurt and local honey, blood orange juice, farm eggs, and fresh-baked loaves of Sicilian wheat — all of which have benefitted from Mount Etna's nutrient-rich soil. In the summer, a long and lazy taste-testing session (washed down with cappuccino) is unadulterated joy.
Check in: Book a Room

The Grand Restaurant. Photo courtesy of The Kulm Hotel.

The Kulm Hotel

Where: St. Moritz, Switzerland
What's to love: Breakfast in the baroque Grand Restaurant will leave you well-stoked for skiing, hiking, and high-end alpine shopping. Local specialties on the buffet include birchermüsli, bündnerfleisch (air-dried Grisons meat, an Engadine Valley speciality), real (thick!) hot chocolate, and the creamiest Tilsiter Swiss cheese. Other pluses include a comprehensive selection of regional butters, jams, and honeys, and perfectly formed, piping hot omelettes.
Check in: Book a Room

Il Palagio. Photo courtesy of Four Seasons Hotel Firenze.

Four Seasons Hotel Firenze

Where: Florence, Italy
What's to love: There is nothing typical about this Four Seasons. Set in a 16th-century frescoed palazzo, the Sunday brunch is, well, beyond memorable (I'm still talking about this meal five years later). The formal restaurant, Il Palagio, is transformed into a multi-station brunch by noted chef Vito Mollica, who makes killer poached eggs with Florentine-style spinach. The atmosphere is very casual (local families linger, too) and the food is delicious and all locally sourced (berries are the size of golf balls). Make this your only meal of the day.
Check in: Book a Room

The Alain Ducasse classic. Photo courtesy of Le Meurice.

Hôtel Le Meurice

Where: Paris, France
What's to love: The Michelin-starred Alain Ducasse restaurant, with its stylish Phillipe Starck update, is a magical place to kick off a day in the City of Light. The American breakfast is full-on: eggs with a truffle, Kristal caviar or salmon supplement, Ducasse's own hot chocolate, pressed juices by Nubio, and thick, crispy waffles doused in whatever you like. This is old-school luxury.
Check in: Book a Room

The outdoor spread. Photo courtesy of Belmond Villa Sant'Andrea.

Belmond Villa Sant'Andrea

Where: Taormina, Sicily
What's to love: The seaside terrace setting and the comprehensive spread are unmatched. Choose from freshly baked croissants and plum tarts, peach compote, housemade tangerine marmalade, acacia honey from nearby Etna, Parma prosciutto, and the most delicious smoked swordfish. Apricot, green apple, and blueberry juices, sipped overlooking the Bay of Mazzaro, are just sublime.
Check in: Book a Room

The brunch buffet. Photo courtesy of Peninsula Chicago.

The Peninsula Chicago

Where: Chicago, Illinois
What's to love: As a general rule, Peninsula Hotels do breakfast really well, with plenty of Chinese offerings standard. Chicago offers lobster and scallop congee and steamed shrimp dumplings, but with a hefty dose of Midwestern, carb-laden goodness added in. Think fluffy pancakes, chocolate desserts, waffles with berry compote, and serious specialty meats like steak, various kinds of bacon, and pork and chicken sausages.
Check in: Book a Room

The breakfast at Aman Tokyo. Photo by Jeralyn Gerba.

Aman Tokyo

Where: Tokyo, Japan
What's to love: It's hard to describe the sheer delight of sitting down to a proper Japanese breakfast. Each little bento box compartment offers a surprising bite of something gastronomically remarkable — it's like getting permission to open all of the advent calendar doors at once. To be able to enjoy the elevated morning ritual at Aman, itself a jewel box of architectural surprises, while overlooking the Imperial Gardens and Mount Fuji? Arigato. 
Check in: Book a Room

A Puglia hotel with charm in spades

Masseria Le Carrube: a chic boutique hotel with standout cuisine

On a recent trip to coastal, seafood-centric Puglia, one of my top finds was, rather surprisingly, the vegetarian restaurant at the lovely, limestone Masseria Le Carrube, a new boutique hotel set among endless olive groves near the charming towns of Ostuni and trullo-filled Alberobello. Owned by the family-run San Domenico Hotels – of more luxuriousBorgo Egnazia and Masseria Cimino fame – Le Carrube (first picture) is a toned-down, whitewashed oasis with an abundance of local colour – and delicious food prepared by neighbourhood nonnas.

room interior

Our group of six stayed in one of the inn’s large suites of rooms (doubles from €180, example in second picture), which share the same Zen aesthetic that I enjoyed at Borgo Egnazia just down the road. The design is all natural materials in neutral hues, with peaceful grapevine-strewn patios setting the stage for a late-afternoon Aperol spritz and poolside lounging. In the dining room, the original stone mill of this 17th-century building takes centre stage, and the space is quite magical by night, its vaulted ceilings illuminated by candlelight.

As with most meals in Puglia, baskets of circular tarallibiscuits whet the appetite – dipped in San Domenico’s own olive oil (this brilliant green variety is outstanding; tins can be bought at the front desk). Primi consisted of pasta dishes such as carob-flourtagliatelle with seasonal vegetables, and laganari with Apulian green beans. Among us we sampled spelt with asparagus and carrots, a dense cauliflower risotto, and red wild rice with shavings of Parmesan, which, for me, was the stellar standout. Sides of chickpeas with ginger and a bitter rocket salad rounded out the meal, while a glass of the Negroamaro Cabernet by Masseria Li Veli (€42) paired beautifully with the chef’s fresh flavour combinations.

After dessert of subtly sweet pear cake with Chantilly cream, or cinnamon-infused ricotta cheese with orange crêpes, even the committed carnivores among us left happily sated. But what really makes Masseria Le Carrube so special is the people working there: Valentina, Valeria and Palma are happy to help with everything and anything, and the whole experience feels authentically, rustically Puglian. Please tell them that I sent you…

Minyatür Istanbul

This magical Istanbul emporium is packed to the gills with nautical antiques and attracts visitors from collectors to royalty

In the heart of Istanbul’s labyrinthine Grand Bazaar is an Aladdin’s cave that seems to have been lifted from the pages of Jules Verne’s 1870 sci-fi classic Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea. A magical emporium packed to the ceiling with an intriguing inventory of nautical antiques, Minyatür was founded in 1962 by Hasan Yedek and Halit Altuncu and is overseen today by Yedek’s son, Haluk, himself a passionate collector and seafaring historian.

Image: Mathias Depardon

“Every customer finds something different here, something special – objects for their homes, offices or restaurants. These are rare pieces that create a nautical ambience,” says Haluk of the enormous globes (from $500), sextants (from $1,000) and Soviet-era wall-mounted submarine phones (from $1,500) that have become a Minyatür speciality. The sheer scope of the stock – faded vintage postcards (from $20) bearing images of the Hagia Sophia and the Bosphorus, a c1790 English Dollond library telescope ($4,000) or sundials (from $1,000) of Chinese, Persian and Arab origin – attracts a wide range of visitors, from collectors to tourists to the King of Morocco.

“He bought several ships’ windows and a magnifying glass for his young daughter, but also spied a framed prayer on the wall that wasn’t for sale,” says Haluk. “He liked it so much I gave it to him. His consul later returned with a beautiful thank you letter from the king, and it now hangs in the prayer’s place.” This generous spirit is one of Minyatür’s draws, as Haluk enthusiastically shares his vast maritime know-how with all who come through the door. Indeed, many of Istanbul’s best guides bring their clients here for an intimate, museum-like experience that is both entertaining and educational.

These impromptu lessons in maritime history might focus on Haluk’s prized offerings from the Ottoman period – such as a brass compass ($1,000), pocket watch ($1,250) or ruler ($600) – which often feature exquisite inscriptions. Or they might examine some other still-functioning nautical instruments: wooden and folding cameras (from $200) by Voiglönder, Agfa and Leica; English wall clocks (from $500) by Smiths and Kelvin Hughes; and German microscopes (from $650) by Leitz, often in mint condition.

Were it not for Haluk’s guidance (lucky visitors might also find the founders in store, talking business over tea, as well as Haluk’s brother Faruk, who helps with restoration), the selection could seem overwhelming. As well as brass jewellery boxes (from $200) and even delicate Limoges tea sets ($150), all of which were once used on sailing vessels, there are collections of polished silver canes (from $300, some intricately filigreed, others sculpturally simple), delicate magnifying-glass necklaces (from $100) and ships’ bells (from $750) in varying sizes, all adding to the oceanic scene. “The way we curate the objects creates a unique experience that is part of the culture and heritage of Turkey, and specifically of Istanbul,” says Haluk. Minyatür may be in the buzzing bazaar, but it is also a portal to a bygone age of seafaring adventure.

Madonna! London's High-Fashion Hotel Is, of Course, Italian

If you walked past this high-end hotel, you might mistake it for one of the surrounding haute boutiques. And you wouldn't be far off. Fathom contributor Christina Ohly checks into one of the poshest addresses in Knightsbridge, London.

LONDON – There's no place more special than London for celebrating a milestone birthday, a romantic anniversary, or a Power Ball payout. The historic city holds special charm for revelers: sublime scenery, culture galore, incredible food (who would have thought), and above all else, some of the most luxurious hotels on the planet. Among the most special and sumptuous is Bulgari Hotel London in Knightsbridge. Such a hotel experience isn't cheap, but here's what you get for your hard-earned pounds.

CHECKING IN

Overview

It makes sense that a hotel from the most luxurious jewelry brand in Italy would be just as stunning and opulent. Opened in 2012, the 85-room sleek spot in Knightsbridge is all polished cherry and mahogany and steel finishes, yet the atmosphere is incredibly warm and accessible. That's due to the staff, who are always attentive but never fawning and are clad in simple, streamlined outfits — plain cotton jackets, sensible outerwear, no white gloves or top hats in sight. Everything from your personalized butler to the crisp-filled minibar is incredibly high-touch and low-key at the same time.

The lobby. All photos courtesy of Bulgari Hotel London.

The spa pool.

What's New

The Bulgari Spa is a stand-alone destination, home to one of the most beautiful pools in London. There's also an expansive menu of treatments ranging from bespoke facials to full-body Thai massages to emotional healing with modern wizard Andrew Wallas, who practices spiritual psychology. New this month are Mauli treatments, like insanely relaxing Sacred Indian Head Massages incorporating hand-crafted Ayurveda products that can only be found on-site.

What's On Site

Besides the spa and a chic restaurant serving Mediterranean tapas, you'll find the most outrageous minibars and wine refrigerators. There are no wants for amenities — as the room is already stocked with international electrical sockets, Nespresso machines, personalized stationery, Bulgari beauty products, fruit baskets of never-before-seen varieties, and excellent WiFi.

The Food

Rivea, the hotel's main fine dining restaurant, is now overseen by Alain Ducasse, and serves everything from perfectly poached eggs at breakfast to small dinner plates for tasting and sharing. Among the standouts are cep mushroom and ricotta ravioli, citrus marinated line-caught sea bream, a Provençal vegetable caponata, house-made lemon shortbread, and a tangy limoncello sorbet.

Room service is excellent, too, should you want to have a leisurely meal across from your massive flat-screen TV in the comfort of one of your many fluffy bathrobes.

Rivea restaurant.

A deluxe room.

The Rooms

There are 85 rooms, seven of which are indulgent, massive suites. Standard rooms have exquisite linens and fine wood finishes. Suites are something else entirely — expansive living rooms, kitchens with separate refrigerators for wine and food, a dining room that seats ten, and a closet bigger than most New York City apartments.

I stayed in Room 553, a decadent suite with floor-to-ceiling windows and three TVs, but a simple, 43-square-meter Deluxe Room would have worked just as well. I barely looked out the window because I was so focused on my exquisite surroundings — the king-size bed and sprawling living area. Sixth-floor suites have expansive terraces and gas fireplaces.

This Hotel Is Perfect For

Romantics, tourists who want to explore the shops and restaurants of Knightsbridge, and anyone who likes to be near Hyde Park.

And Not So Perfect For

Anyone on a budget. People who get annoyed by the occasional growl of Ferraris, Lamborghinis, and McLarens that pull up curbside.

The dining room in Bulgari Suite I.

The living room in Bulgari Suite I.

CHECKING OUT

Neighborhood Vibe

I've always thought of Knightsbridge as the part of London that's thronged with tourists flocking to Harrods, but I found it the perfect jumping-off point for exploring Mayfair, Notting Hill, and North London. The tube station is just steps away from the hotel; Fifth Floor at Harvey Nichols still has the best jams and conveyor belt sushi; and Brompton Road and High Street have everything a hotel guest could need — Boots, Carphone Warehouse for chargers, and the food hall at Harrods which, I must admit, is wonderful.

Things to Do Nearby

Head out the hotel front door to Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens before hitting the wonderful restaurants of Kensington and Notting Hill, like Sally Clarke's, The Ledbury, and E&O. For a scenic stroll, pass behind Harrods and walk down Chelsea's Walton Street to Brompton Cross for chic shops like Joseph and Chanel and lunch spots like Itsu (another conveyor belt sushi with great people-watching) and La Brasserie (excellent steak frites served by waiters with Continental attitude).

Steps from the hotel are concerts at Royal Albert Hall and permanent collections of fashion, furniture, jewelry, and decorative objects at Victoria & Albert Museum. Natural History Museum and the Science Museum is great for families, with its turbines, locomotives, and flight simulators. After a packed day, nothing beats robata-grilled tiger prawns with yuzu or sea bass with burnt tomato and ginger relish at Zuma on Raphael Street just behind the hotel.

Le Grand Hotel: A Contemporary Palace in Paris

Fathom contributor and hotel critic Christina Ohly checks into a spectacularly grand boutique hotel in the heart of Paris.

CHECKING IN

Overview

Set in an 18th-century building partly designated as a historical monument, Grand Hotel du Palais Royal Paris is a true gem in a city bursting with wonderful hotels. The chic boutique bolthole has all the advantages of a large, luxury hotel, but at just 68 rooms, is the only five-star of its kind in the well-situated Palais Royal area.

A soothing, sumptuous escape, the hotel is a study in neutral hues and minimalist aesthetics. Best of all, it is literally feet away from the gardens of Palais Royal — just stroll through the colonnade across the street from the hotel's lobby and you're transported to another time. Also in striking distance are the Tulleries, the Louvre, and wonderful shopping on both Rue Sainte-Honoré and in St. Germain-des-Pres across the Seine.

The hotel lobby.

Beautiful detailing.

What's New

Noted French interiors guru Pierre-Yves Rochon renovated the rooms and common spaces, including Le Lulli restaurant and a cozy bar. The idea is to make you feel like the Palais is your maison away from home. A Carita spa and a reasonably well-outfitted gym (it's Paris after all, this isn't a priority) have also been updated, and great focus has been put on the concierge team, who work tirelessly to secure everything from Paris Saint Germain football tickets to hard-to-score reservations at restaurants such as Frenchie and Semilla to in-room doctor visits for sick children in need of antibiotics. (It wouldn't be a holiday without this added diversion, would it?)

What's on Site

You have all the amenities of one of the palace hotels found in the 8th and the 16th (gym, spa with hammam, delicious restaurant, spacious rooms with terraces), but the whole experience feels more intimate. Excellent WiFi, international newspapers, and plentiful adapters are pluses. The staff is willing to source anything — groceries, pharmacy finds, advance tickets to the Picasso Museum.

The Food

I'm a huge fan of breakfast, and I can't say enough good things about the complimentary spread in the conservatory restaurant, Le Lulli. The bright setting — brilliant green plants and a design-led Bertoia vibe — starts the day off right, and the selection of freshly baked breads, salads, fruit, cheeses, and excellent coffee are well beyond your typical, all-inclusive fare. Omelettes made to order are another highlight. The staff is attentive to every wish, sometimes before you've identified the need for more thé vert or jus d'orange. Lunch is also lovely, with light pouring into the restaurant and exquisitely prepared fish dishes and refined takes on the classic chicken Caesar salad.

The dining room at Le Lulli.

A superior room.

n the Room

There are 57 rooms and eleven suites across the hotel's five floors, and each is elegant and filled with light. The rooms feel both warm and modern — beige and cream with leather and wood finishes, desks, and gleaming marble bathrooms — and are wonderful places to return to after a day of work or sightseeing. Minibars are stocked with beverages but little else, so ask for additional supplies or stock up at the nearby Franprix just down Rue St. Honoré. There are flat-screen TVs with umpteen channels in all languages, as well as strong, hot showers, thick towels, and enormous robes which all coalesce to ease the pain of long-haul flights.

Room with a View

Our family of four occupied two interconnecting rooms (308 and 309) overlooking quiet Rue du Valois and the entrance to Palais Royal. Bright even on slightly dreary days, these rooms work incredibly well for children of all ages, but next time I will stay in one of the terrace or panorama suites. Both are on the top floor, accessible by private elevator. Some have views of Palais Royal, while others have vistas of the Eiffel Tower, Montmartre, and Opera Garnier.

This Place Is Perfect For

Families, business travelers, fashionistas who want access to the nearby shops and ateliers of Paris' leading designers, and anyone who has a thing for the loggias and ambience of the Palais Royal. This is simply a rare gem.

But Not So Perfect For

Anyone who wants the big, shiny Parisian hotel experience. For this, head straight to the impressive new Peninsula on Avenue Kleber (also lovely, just a different experience).

The Palais Royal suite.

The bathroom in the Panorama Suite.

The view from the Panorama Suite.

CHECKING OUT

Neighborhood Vibe

Real life is happening here. You're not on a polished street in the Golden Triangle, but rather in the heart of the working city. Commuters come out of Palais Royal metro and scurry by, while tourists pass en route to the side entrance and the pyramids of the Louvre.

What to Do Nearby

There are no shortage of activities. Louvre, Musee D'Orsay, and the Opera are nearby. Excellent restaurants, of which there are many, include Café Marly in the colonnades of the Louvre, a perennial favorite for lunch and people-watching.

My favorite eateries are further afield, like the new Kinugawa Matignon in the 8th, which shines for both excellent sashimi and chic ambience. Ralph's in Saint Germain-des-Pres is wonderful for spring and summer lunches en plein air, as is a spread of Poilâne tartines at the casual Bar de la Croix Rouge (2 Place Michel Debré; +33-1-4548-0645), more toned down than nearby Café de Flore (172 Boulevard Saint-Germain; +33-1-4548-5526) and Les Deux Magots (which will always be mainstays).

Semilla, also in the 6th arrondissement, is an excellent choice for both the design-led space and small plates of grilled shiitake mushrooms and enormous bowls of cake and ice cream drizzled with caramel sauce — dishes meant for sharing that add to the relaxed, convivial vibe.

The high-end shops (YSL, Prada, Hermès...) are on Rue Saint-Honoré, while smaller gems are hidden across the Seine in St. Germain-des-Pres. L/Uniform is hands-down my favorite shop for stylish, practical canvas and leather bags by the daughter-in-law of the Goyard family. Muriel Grateau is a beautiful, spare space full of exquisite linen napkins, minimalist ceramics, and strong, statement-making crystal jewelry. Basics like Le Bon Marché and Du Pareil au Même (the French answer to/or a cooler version of Baby Gap) are both in this area of the 6th.

Lovers of good design should flock to 107Rivoli (part of Musee des Arts Décoratifs), which is full of incredible accessories, books, lighting, jewelry, and more. It's a short walk from the hotel next to the Louvre.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Good to Know

Book directly through the hotel so that upgrades and changes are handled directly with the front desk. The owners of this hotel are all about happy customers and will upgrade whenever possible. Don't be shy about asking. Ditto for early check-ins and bag storage. Both are helpful after a red-eye flight.

Uber is big in Paris: Cheaper, faster, nicer drivers (generally) who dole out sweets and bottled water make rides a win-win.

How to Get There

The hotel is approximately 45 minutes from Charles De Gaulle airport (CDG) by car (depending on the time of day) and 30 minutes from Paris Orly airport (ORY), which services much of Europe. The Palais Royal Metro is around the corner from the hotel and is by far the easiest way to get around, particularly during Fashion Week when the area becomes gridlocked.

The cool retro vibe of Hotel Alexandra, Copenhagen

The cool retro vibe of Hotel Alexandra, Copenhagen

I grew up with grandparents that celebrated all things Scandinavian; Georg Jensen and Arne Jacobsen were common names around their house, and I inherited from them a love of all things midcentury. So when I stayed at Copenhagen’s Hotel Alexandra earlier this year I was in design heaven, for this authentic and affordable 61-room boutique gem – situated just steps from the Tivoli Gardens and bustling City Hall Square – is a passionate, authentic recreation of this fertile era of Danish design.

The retro vibe begins in the chic lobby space (first picture) and is carried throughout the hotel, where all the furniture and light fixtures, fabrics and artworks are genuine midcentury articles (with the welcome additions of flatscreen TVs and WiFi), chosen with vintage furniture expert Anders Petersen – and virtually every object is also for sale. The standard rooms (from €180) are small yet quite special, as no two are exactly alike, but it is the deluxe versions and suites (from €240) dedicated to specific designers – from the calmly minimal Hans J Wegner room (second picture) to the psychedelic 1960s-style Verner Panton suite (third picture) – that really stand out.

The most recent addition to the mix is the 35 sq m Collector’s Suite (from €240 per night, fourth picture) – an exquisite rosewood-panelled space that overlooks the hotel courtyard and Studiestræde below, and which will be reconceived several times each year by Petersen. The furnishings – an early Wegner Sawhorse chair (€2,546), a sculptural coat rack by Adam Hoff and Poul Østergaard (€697), and the black leather upholstered couch by Hans Olsen (€5,200) – are all, in my opinion, worthy of the Museum of Modern Art.

“The point of the room is to make guests feel like they are in a time capsule,” says Petersen – and it works, helped along by the early-1970s ceramics and carefully selected tomes devoted to Panton and Jacobsen that grace the suite’s minimalist dark wood shelving system by Kai Kristiansen (€1,300).

“Our next interior will be dedicated to Poul Kjærholm, one of the most iconic Danish furniture architects of all time,” explains Petersen. “With the help of his daughter, Krestine, we will be producing a bed he originally designed for his own home and of which there are currently only three in existence.”