Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte opens for the first time at Christmas

Guests of La Réserve Paris can check in for a two-night VIP experience – and spend the night before Christmas in sumptuous style

An opulent Christmas Eve can be found at Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte, as the private estate opens its doors to guests of La Réserve Paris – its first major collaboration with the hotel and the first time in its history that it’s been open at Christmas.

Guests will enjoy a dinner prepared by La Réserve’s two-Michelin-starred chef Jérôme Banctel, accompanied by the wines of Clos d’Estournel | Image: Collectif Image

The event will see a small group of up to 15 friends and family whisked away from the Parisian hotel by helicopter to the countryside setting of Maincy, and the largest privately owned property in France – a château set in sweeping gardens realised in 1661 by architect Louis Le Vau, painter Charles Le Brun and the Sun King’s landscape designer André Le Nôtre.

Following a tour of the historic building, the festivities will begin with dinner prepared by La Réserve’s two-Michelin-starred chef Jérôme Banctel. In addition to seasonal celebratory offerings, guests will be treated to the wines of Cos d’Estournel. The memorable evening is set to conclude with a literal bang as the party moves to the gardens for a glittering fireworks display.

The sumptuous interior of Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte | Image: Collectif Image

The evening is part of a two-night package (priced from €239,000 for up to 15 people), and the Parisian leg of the trip is also filled with festive treats – an entire floor of the hotel will be made available for the party’s private use and they will enjoy a customised cruise on the Seine, special VIP access to the Eiffel Tower, a behind-the-scenes tour of the Louvre and “off-hour” access to some of Paris’ finest boutiques and maisons.

Juan Pablo Molyneux’s perfect weekend in Champagne

The contemporary classicist’s illustrious interiors and opulent restoration projects traverse the globe and include royal palaces, historic châteaux and private homes

“Saturday morning begins with walking my three dogs – an Alsatian shepherd, a Porcelaine and a Labrador retriever/terrier mix – who are as happy to be in the countryside as I am, with only the sound of the birds chirping. 

My château, where the black swans, geese, turkeys and wild peacocks are out in force, is in Champagne-Ardenne, an easy and beautiful drive from Paris. The landscape is so refreshing: it’s green all year round, and we’re surrounded by quaint villages, each with a church dating from the 11th to the 13th century. 

If the weather is nice after my walk, I’ll play tennis, or go for a horseback ride. Haras de Villechétive, a lovely stable nearby, brings the horses ready to ride, so all we have to do is explore.

Then, my wife Pilar and I will go to the farmers’ market in the village of Villeneuve-l’Archevêque, a place so atmospheric that you want to smell, touch and eat everything; the white asparagus, the melons, the seasonal berries and tomatoes all remind me of my childhood in Chile. There is also a wonderful boulangerie called Brissonnet Sylvain, where they sell a delicious speciality called Villeneuvien, a cake made with layers of the lightest crêpe.  

One of the most magical towns in the area is Sens. It’s home to one of Europe’s earliest gothic cathedrals and was one of the most important medieval towns in France. My château was built as a fortress for Sens; you’ll see this architectural style all over the region, with buildings that are square and imposing, each with four towers, a moat and a dungeon. 

After a morning in Sens, we might go south to Troyes, where the Musée Saint-Loup holds all kinds of archaeological and fine art masterpieces, such as Philippe de Champaigne’s La Réception du duc de Longueville dans l’Ordre du Saint-Esprit among the most important paintings.

For an excellent lunch, we’ll continue on to La Côte St Jacques in Joigny: the food, particularly the Bresse chicken steamed in champagne and the seabass with oscietra caviar, is the best of France. 

On Saturday night we’ll have guests and cook what we bought at the market, or we might head to Auberge du Cygne de la Croix in Nogent-sur-Seine. It’s a simple restaurant with a warm atmosphere – the terrine maison is unmissable. Le Moulin du Landion, in a 18th-century water mill, is another lovely place for a night out. The cuisine is rustic but with sophisticated touches, and everything from the foie gras to the salads smells so fresh.

Sunday morning typically involves one of the brocantes – travelling antique markets. Moulins has one of the best in the region for 18th-century French country furniture and decorative objects such as candelabra. One of my favourite finds was a mismatched dinner service that’s perfect for festive dinner parties.

Taittinger and Ruinart are both close to home, and we like to visit the caves. It’s interesting to see how they store the champagne, but I’m more fascinated with the buildings, a mix of magnificent old arches and modernist elements. The Gallo-Roman chalk mines at Taittinger are now a Unesco World Heritage site, and Ruinart, also in Reims, is a historic site too. And, of course, we never miss the cathedral. 

We also enjoy dining later outside at the spectacular Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte. It’s a bit of a drive, but Les Charmilles, the restaurant there, is magical by candlelight. Usually though, we stay home and have a late lunch or Mariage Frères’ black tea and sweets from Maison Caffet chocolatier in Troyes, before returning to Paris. 

I almost always go back with a smile, ready for the week ahead. In any case, we bring baskets of freshly picked flowers to carry us through.”

A long weekend in Palm Beach with Aerin Lauder

The scion of the Estée Lauder empire, founder of global luxury lifestyle brand Aerin and Palm Beach habituée shares one-off shops, compelling cultural programmes and top ice creams with Christina Ohly Evans. Portrait by Jeffery Salter

“Palm Beach has always been a big part of my life.  I grew up spending holidays here with my grandmother [Estée Lauder] and all of my family, and I love the beaches, the sun, the architecture…everything about the place. There is a clear sense of tradition here – people still don black tie for the annual Coconuts New Year’s Eve gala – but there is also an exciting, younger energy in town. The next generation is moving to Palm Beach, and there is an international draw because of its proximity to Miami, so the town feels more vibrant and creative than ever.

My grandmother – who was my mentor – always loved the elegance of Palm Beach; one of her earliest fragrances, Aliage, was inspired by the sporty lifestyle here. Estée always wore white pants, a Pucci shirt and a broad-brimmed straw hat, and my Palm Beach uniform isn’t much different – though I tend to wear white jeans instead. The town is little changed since my childhood; the colours of the bougainvillea, the sculpture gardens and the very specific Mediterranean style of architecture are all wonderfully intact. You’ll find these grand, sweeping estates, as well as beautiful apartments that were built by Addison Mizner in the 1920s. All of these homes and spaces have clear Spanish and Italian influences, with plenty of the white stucco that’s so perfect for the south Florida climate.

The pool at the Italian Renaissance-style Breakers Hotel

Palm Beach’s gardens are some of the most beautiful in the world. The Society of the Four Arts is one of my favourite places not just for flora – there are about 170 plant species including hibiscus, orchids and palms – but also for its incredible sculpture garden, complete with pergolas. It does all kinds of cultural programming – Simon Schama has been here, and documentary filmmaker Ric Burns – as well as concerts and screenings. This is a peaceful place to spend a morning, before heading to the nearby Lake Trail, a bike path that follows the edge of Lake Worth, past boat docks and historic homes and with gorgeous views along the Intracoastal Waterway.

There are all sorts of hotels in Palm Beach, from historical and grand to those with a more boutique feel. But the iconic Breakers, which was built in 1926 in the Italian Renaissance style, is among the best. This is a great spot for everything from tennis and golf to lounging by the pool in one of their cabanas; the spa and gym are perfection too. I’m a big fan of its breakfast buffet – which is served in a massive ballroom that makes you feel like you’re on an old ship. Its relatively new Seafood Bar offers some of the best crab cakes on the island. For a more intimate stay, Brazilian Court has apartment-style suites and also an excellent restaurant by Daniel Boulud, while I like The Colony Hotel in the centre of town for its old-world feel, complete with a beautiful high tea served on the porch.

The heart of Palm Beach is Worth Avenue. You’ll find some of the most incredible shops and restaurants here. One of the most special places, tucked away off Worth Avenue, is Via Mizner – a little courtyard, full of shops and restaurants, that’s on the US National Register of Historic Places. This whole area symbolises the Gilded Age and the work of architect Addison Mizner, whose designs line part of the street. I always encourage people to look up on Worth Avenue, because some of the most beautiful gardens dangle above them; even the palm trees lining the street are lit from below at night.

The shopping here is world class. Kassatly’s – opened in 1923, it’s Worth Avenue’s oldest shop – is a must for towels, while Leta Austin Foster is an institution for luxurious D Porthault linens and children’s clothing. Just next door you’ll find CJ Laing, one of the best places to stock up on cover‑ups, sandals and straw hats. For anyone interested in monogramming and embroidery – of everything, from hand towels to clothing – or even in personalising an order of Oreo cookies, Lori Jayne Monogramming & More is a truly unique find; she will customise virtually anything and her shop is a hidden gem. Hive is another must, for the array of housewares and accessories and, particularly, for the beautiful selection of notecards.

The elegant, old-world patio at Renato's | Image: Nickolas Sargent

In addition to great shopping, Via Mizner has some excellent restaurants. You can sit outside at Renato’s and enjoy really classic, fresh food: roasted baby artichokes and Dover sole in a beautiful setting. For a more casual bite, I like lunch or dinner at the nearby Pizza al Fresco; it has an excellent thin‑crust frutti di mare pizza and a lovely garden under twinkling lights.

What’s exceptional about this shopping area is its mix of old and new; you’ll find names like Valentino just up from a florist, Tom Mathieu, who does incredible arrangements with tropical plants. Trillion is another classic, with a hugely colourful array of cashmere for men and women. Its Italian sweaters in shades of hot pink, mint and purple are perfect for Palm Beach, and the shop is considered an institution for menswear in particular. Worth Avenue is also home to Mary Mahoney, a noted home-decor boutique where I always find unique glassware and Buccellati silver. And for lovers of vintage, there is no better place than Palm Beach because there is always an estate sale on somewhere. And the Church Mouse on South County Road is a treasure trove of everything from antique furniture to 1960s evening bags and clutches by Emilio Pucci.

Via Mizner, a Gilded Age courtyard, is home to many local restaurants and shops | Image: Susanne Kremer/4Corners Images

One of the newer additions to town is Sant Ambroeus in the Royal Poinciana Plaza, a sister to the New York and Milan cafés. I love it for breakfast, lunch, dinner and sometimes a hazelnut gelato from its standalone cart. But I’m actually very loyal to Sprinkles, the local ice cream shop nearby, because I’ve been going there all my life, and the homemade coconut ice cream is outstanding. For even more old-fashioned atmosphere, there’s Green’s Pharmacy on North County Road; it has a traditional soda fountain counter and makes the best grilled cheese sandwiches and vanilla milkshakes in town. You’ll also find things like Whitman’s Sampler boxes of chocolates and practical sun hats. The whole place is purely nostalgic.

For a short road trip, head just an hour south to Miami where the new Surf Club is both sleek and glamorous. The restaurant there, Le Sirenuse, serves food just like the food at the original in the famous hotel in Positano. You actually do feel transported to the Mediterranean.

Chic cover-ups, straw hats and bags at CJ Laing

My grandmother loved Palm Beach for the natural beauty, the sense of tradition and the people. Even today, there’s an embracing of the old world, but also a younger generation that feels tied to the area. The times that I shared here with my grandmother – visiting the Flagler Museum, sitting in the sunroom in her chairs or just cycling along the bike path – I now enjoy with my sons. I always hope that when people come to Palm Beach they access those same feelings of warmth and history. It is a place for people of all ages, with all kinds of varied interests; but Palm Beach hasn’t changed much over the many years I’ve been coming, and that’s what makes it so special.”

Lenny Kravitz’s perfect weekend in Paris

The award-winning musician, producer, actor and oenophile continues to add strings to his creative bow, with his own design studio and a new role as creative director of Dom Pérignon

“Saturday mornings start with a run in the Bois de Boulogne, near my home in the 16th arrondissement, or a visit to my trainer at L’Usine, a gym near Opéra. I’ll then stroll to the open-air market along Avenue du Président Wilson. I am a green juice, farm-to-table guy, and there’s always an incredible array of organic produce that sets me up for the weekend.

I love furniture and design objects, and wandering the Saint-Germain-des-Prés area gives me creative inspiration. I like Studio 7L, Karl Lagerfeld’s bookstore, which specialises in photography, fashion, design and architecture, and Studio Willy Rizzo, where you’ll find anything from contemporary lacquered tables to vintage fashion photographs. I might end up in the impressionist rooms at the Musée d’Orsay, where I’ll often just sit and relax.

After a morning spent exploring, I’ll go to La Société for a light lunch with friends. It draws a great mix of people – artists, tourists, the fashion crowd – and the space, designed by Christian Liaigre, is very soothing. There are hints of Asia, such as curries and tom yum soup, and the shrimp and avocado salad is excellent. Afterwards I might walk over to the Musée des Arts Décoratifs to see an exhibition such as the recent Dior retrospective, or I’ll go to a show at the Grand Palais.

I spend a lot of time in the Marais too, and for café culture I like Le Loir dans la Théière, which translates to “the dormouse in the teapot” from the Mad Hatter’s tea party. I love the laidback vibe; it looks like a place the Beat poets would have loved, and it’s a good stop for a cup of tea or a lentil salad. Alternatively, L’As du Fallafel, where I’ve been going for the past 30 years, serves excellent falafel sandwiches. There’s a line out the door, but it’s worth the wait.

Saturday nights are about dining out, and Pierre Sang in the 11th does amazing French-Asian cuisine. The Korean-born chef was raised by French parents and it shows in his incredibly fresh, creative food; the surprise tasting menus are delicious. He owns three restaurants in the area and literally runs between them. This one is kind of hipster – and just very cool.

I am a huge opera fan – I sang with the Metropolitan Opera in New York, growing up – and I also love the ballet. Before an evening at the Palais Garnier, I’ll often go to Matsuhisa at the Royal Monceau for its clean, inventive Japanese food.

Nights tend to be late, and the party is at my house: I’ve converted the cellar into a speakeasy. Dance parties might involve Mick Jagger or Naomi Campbell DJing, and at 5am we’ll head to Babylone Bis, an Afro-Caribbean restaurant that’s open all night – something hard to find in Paris. It’s hidden in an alley near Les Halles, and the poulet braisé with plantains, rice and beans and the funky zebra print and pictures of Marvin Gaye make it a fantastic place.

I’ll sleep until 11am, before heading to the Marché aux Puces in Saint-Ouen to look for midcentury pieces by Joe Colombo, Gabriella Crespi, Verner Panton, Warren Platner and Charles and Ray Eames. Galerie Glustin and Galerie Gam are great for furniture and lighting, and Marché Paul Bert is a favourite for fine pieces such as oil paintings, rare glassware and vintage clothing. I’ll have lunch at the Philippe Starck-designed bistro Ma Cocotte, where the food is really French and the open kitchen adds to the lively scene.

By the afternoon I’m burnt out. Friends and family gather, and we’ll cook. I’m more on the vegan side, but there’s always a roast chicken for the others. Then we’ll sit around my library, spinning 1970s records and talking about the album artwork, and I’ll start to feel recharged for the week ahead.”

“I’m still relaxed after my visit to this reinvented Massachusetts motel”

Bringing Brooklyn-cool to the pastoral Berkshires

I’ve spent a lot of time in the Berkshires over the years. I love the bucolic valleys and pristine villages in this part of northwestern Massachusetts. It makes for a wonderful weekend escape, just three hours hours from New York City, and is home to an increasingly world-class art scene with the outstanding Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art at its centre. The only problem is finding somewhere to stay – until this summer, that is, when the retro-chic Tourists opened its doors in the small city of North Adams. 

The ranch-house-cum-lobby has a cool grown-up house party aesthetic and is furnished with Mario Bellini sofas | Image: Peter Crosby

My first thought as we approached this stylish take on a motor lodge this summer was, “I’m never going to be able to sleep,” given that the property runs alongside a particularly busy thoroughfare. But Tourists’ 48 rooms are located well within its generous grounds – a mix of woodland and lush gardens with the babbling Hoosic River in its backyard – and pretty much the only sound that wafted into my room was the soothing music selection from the short-wave radio. I’m still feeling relaxed from my recent visit thanks to the river views bought into our plywood-clad Canopy room via enormous picture windows. There’s even a state-of-the-art ventilation system that pumps in fresh mountain air.

The hotel has its own suspension bridge – an über-cool, minimalist metal construction courtesy of adventure park designer Gerhard Komenda | Image: Peter Crosby

Tourists boasts a salt-water pool and outdoor deck shower | Image: John Dolan

The reinvention of this roadside motel was helmed by Ben Svenson, a Boston-based design-loving developer whose creative partners in the project range from architect Hank Scollard and noted landscape architecture firm Reed Hilderbrand (who created the stunning grounds of The Clark Art Institute just up the road) to musician John Stirratt, bassist in Grammy Award-winning band Wilco, and local brewery owner Eric Kerns. Together, they’ve brought all kinds of cool aesthetics to this grown-up house party: tan Mario Bellini sofas adorn the original 1960s ranch-house-cum-lobby, while sleek bathrooms are kitted out with Dornbracht fixtures, organic toiletries from Vermont brand Ursa Major (the Perfect Zen body lotion is delicious), denim robes and rainbow-coloured towels for use in the outdoor deck shower and saltwater pool. The hotel even has its own suspension bridge – an über-cool, minimalist metal construction courtesy of adventure park designer Gerhard Komenda.

Food is another major focus, overseen by chef Cortney Burns, former co-chef of San Francisco’s revered Bar Tartine. A restaurant called Loom will open in early 2019, but for now guests can dine in the Lodge or on the sprawling Deck Bar. And the menus are already impressive – charred summer vegetables with brown rice tabbouleh, green tahini, yoghurt and olives; seared halibut with aubergine and tomatoes. Delightful.

Stay in a Jean Prouvé masterpiece

Guests of Villa La Coste can now check into a Prouvé prefab – an art installation adapted by Richard Rogers, which is set to become a unique bolthole experience

The discerning traveller needs no excuse to visit Château La Coste in the south of France, but a unique experience fusing art and architecture is an enticing added incentive. From Monday October 1, the Provençal winery, museum and boutique bolthole will collaborate with Galerie Patrick Seguin Paris to offer guests the unique experience of booking into a prefabricated house designed by midcentury master Jean Prouvé, which has been adapted for modern use by Pritzker Prize-winning architect Richard Rogers.

The prefabricated house designed by midcentury master Jean Prouvé has been adapted for modern use by Pritzker Prize-winning architect Richard Rogers

The 6x6 Prouvé house –a passion project of gallerist Patrick Seguin that was realised by Rogers in 2015 –is on display at Villa La Coste’s Renzo Piano-designed art gallery. Now, guests will not only be able to marvel at the piece but stay in it (from €2,000 per night) throughout 2019. Prouvé designed the spare, functional Demountable House in 1944 for victims of the second world war left homeless in France’s Lorraine region, but with careful adaptation that preserves the integrity of the original structure, it has become chic accommodation – complete with furnishings and art from Patrick Seguin’s impressive personal collection.

Guests of Villa La Coste can book to stay in the Prouvé house (from €2,000 per night) from Monday October 1

The house is furnished with design classics and art from Patrick Seguin’s personal collection

Guests will be in good company during their stay, as Château La Coste hosts a world-class art collection featuring works by Louise Bourgeois, Alexander Calder and Ai Wei Wei.

Villa La Coste’s Renzo Piano-designed art gallery

A long weekend in Cornwall with Olga Polizzi

Rocco Forte’s design director takes Christina Ohly Evans on a seaside sojourn of slick sailboats, sculpture gardens, sublime seafood and secret hideaways.

Olga Polizzi on the seafront at St Mawes | Image: Jooney Woodward

“I came to Cornwall late in life and fell in love with it straight away. My husband has been coming here all his life; I was introduced to the area 28 years ago and it was a revelation. Cornwall feels like another country – the pace is slower, the light is beautiful and, because the Gulf Stream passes right by, the weather is that much milder. You’ll feel very connected to nature here – the sea, the rocks, the beach – and the people are also incredibly kind. It feels like a particularly vibrant area now, with new restaurants and art galleries adding to the cultural mix. Best of all, you can walk the Cornish coastal path for miles, and while the going isn’t always easy, it is beautiful throughout the seasons.

Of course, I recommend a stay at Hotel Tresanton, the eclectic little inn that I looked at for two years before buying. It was formerly a yacht club; the collection of buildings was in total disrepair when I acquired it, but we’ve managed to create a very relaxed, almost Mediterranean-meets-New England getaway where each of the 30 rooms has a different feel – and a view of the sea. It’s a wonderful place if you like sailing, and we have a magnificent 8m classic yacht named Pinuccia that’s available to our guests. She was built in 1939 to race for Italy at an international competition and from May to the end of September, our skipper Mark will take you sailing around Falmouth bay – one of the most beautiful places for boating in Britain.

The Lookout Suite at the Artist Residence in Penzance

I furnished the rooms with antique finds from Penzance and paintings from the Lemon Street Gallery, in Truro; its offerings are as good as anything you’ll find in London, so I am constantly adding to the hotel’s collection of contemporary Cornish and more traditional art.

The village of St Mawes, with the boats bobbing in and out of the harbour, is the perfect, quaint seaside spot for a good meal or a bit of retail therapy. I always recommend The Watch House, where chef Will Gould will give you a very good, seafood-centric meal. In terms of stores, my daughter Charlie’s shop, Onda, in the centre of the village stocks excellent clothing and accessories for young and old alike; I buy many of my clothes here and particularly like the new designers she carries, like Annette Görtz and Munthe, a Scandinavian brand. You can find beach bags, jewellery and the latest trainers, too. The village also has a tiny but very well‑stocked delicatessen called Mr Scorse, which is owned and run by Jon Scorse – a friend who used to work at Tresanton. He sells a very good homemade pesto, all sorts of jams and honey, and delicious Cornish gins.

From St Mawes you can take a lovely walk past one of Henry VIII’s castles, which was built in the 16th century to protect the English coastline. You’ll stroll through fields along the seaside for about an hour before reaching the St Just in Roseland church. Built in the 13th century, it has one of the prettiest churchyards in England, right on the water.

Summer is the perfect time to take the ferry from St Mawes across to Place Creek, and walk either to St Anthony’s Lighthouse or the Hidden Hut, which serves excellent seafood chowder and freshly baked bread, overlooking the pristine Porthcurnick Beach on the Roseland Peninsula. It’s a casual spot, a favourite with locals who come for the bespoke espresso martini ice cream that’s made with Cornish clotted cream or, in season, an excellent elderflower cordial. If one is motivated, however, the coastal path extends for many more miles from here. This area is a true walker’s paradise.

Henry VIII’s castle in St Mawes overlooking the Fal estuary | Image: Maurizio Rellini/4Corners Images

I love going to St Ives, and always make a point of stopping at Leach Pottery outside town. Bernard Leach was one of Britain’s best-known potters; he trained in Japan and came back to St Ives where he started his own kilns. He died many years back, but the exquisite ceramics tradition continues here – there is regularly an artist in residence and it’s a good place for picking up interesting pieces. There’s also Tate St Ives, which has been enlarged and has a very good collection of Cornish art, and I always discover emerging artists at the Penwith Gallery. The Barbara Hepworth Museum, with its lovely sculpture garden, is another must.

In St Ives there are several good restaurants, but my favourite is the Porthminster Beach Café, overlooking the bay and Godrevy Lighthouse beyond. The cuisine has an Asian influence with Cornish ingredients. Everything is fresh, from the vegetables and herbs that come from the back garden to the Porthilly oysters and monkfish served with a tangy curry.

A seafood platter at The Watch House, St Mawes

If you want to go a little further afield from St Ives, take the coast road – one of Britain’s most beautiful – to Zennor, and to the best gastro pub I know: The Gurnard’s Head. It has a very limited menu, which I like because it means that everything – mussels, grilled plaice – is fresh. From Zennor, go on to Porthcurno, which is almost the most westerly point of Britain. (Don’t go to Land’s End, however, which is the most westerly point and is rather disappointing.) In Porthcurno there’s the Minack Theatre, perched on the cliffs high above the Atlantic Ocean. It was built between the two world wars and continues to put on plays, concerts and operas every summer in the open air. The stage is set with its back to the sea and the whole thing is very dramatic. The Telegraph Museum here is also worth a look. Over 150 years ago, submarine telegraph cables were laid from here all the way to India. In 1928, the Eastern Telegraph Company merged with Marconi’s Wireless Telegraph Company and this paved the way for today’s worldwide communications system.

From Porthcurno, drive to Mousehole, known for its exquisite circular harbour, and on to Newlyn, one of the largest fishing ports in Cornwall. I always visit the Newlyn Art Gallery, and from there I highly recommend a walk along the promenade to the Jubilee Pool, the newly restored, enormous outdoor pool that’s set into the sea. You can’t leave Newlyn without having a Jelberts ice cream. It only serves vanilla – with a dollop of Cornish clotted cream on top – but it’s simply the best.

The Withiel Sculpture Garden at Lemon Street Gallery, Truro | Image: Emily Whitfield-Wicks

Nearby is Penzance, where you will find the Artist Residence, a quirky and unusual hotel run by a lovely young couple who do everything themselves. It is eclectic and fun. Another place that I can go to again and again is the Lizard, a part of Cornwall that is weird, wild, wonderful and a little bit spooky. In Church Cove there you will find the tiny, ancient Gunwalloe Church in a sandy cove on the beach – very moving and romantic. Nearby you can buy lighthouse statues made of Cornish Serpentine marble. I always buy the old ones when I see them.

On the way back to London, Coombeshead Farm near Lewannick is a wonderful bed and breakfast between Cornwall and Devon, nearer to our Hotel Endsleigh than to Tresanton. It’s just 20 miles from Dartmoor National Park and it’s an intimate, magical place. The owners are the acclaimed chefs April Bloomfield and Tom Adams, and they serve absolutely delicious food, grown and picked by them, on their own land. Don’t leave Cornwall without visiting Rick Stein’s The Seafood Restaurant on the north coast. Rick is still Cornwall’s most famous chef, and thousands of people come to Padstow every year to eat his simply prepared, incredibly flavourful seafood.

Cornwall is having a moment; I think that’s because life is much easier here than it is in London. People are helpful, you’re surrounded by nature and there is a large creative community that’s being drawn to the Falmouth School of Art, among other places. I remember not so long ago when I had to bring all my produce down from London, and now you can find all kinds of unusual vegetables and virtually every type of cuisine. Much of life in Cornwall remains the same, but I like that new energy.”

Marc Glimcher’s perfect weekend in New York

The art dealer and president of Pace Gallery, which represents artists including Mark Rothko and James Turrell, has recently overseen global expansion to a 10th location, in Hong Kong

Marc Glimcher at the Whitney Museum of American Art in New York | Image: Ike Edeani

“My wife Fairfax and I begin Saturdays with matcha and meditation, then a bit of rounding – a yoga-like practice – before one of the healthiest breakfasts imaginable: scrambled eggs with parsley, and smoked salmon, sauerkraut and avocado. I spent the first 50 years of my life eating sugar, and the past three eating healthily, and I finally feel terrific.

My weekends are all about family and rejuvenation; they are the crowning achievement of the week. However, in the art world there is no division between your work and personal life, so art is always woven into Saturdays. 

Sometimes I’ll take out the Tesla and go and see artists such as Julian Schnabel downtown. Studio visits are a relaxing way to see artist-friends when I’m not trying to get to another appointment. But more often than not, our family of six – I have four kids from my previous marriage – will walk around the city, visiting museums. Our go-to is the Whitney, where we’ll see a show and have healthy salads at Untitled, Danny Meyer’s restaurant, before heading uptown to my all-time favourite institution, the American Museum of Natural History. I’m a geek, so this place, with its gems and relics, really appeals – and I force everyone to come, because it’s a masterclass in how to present ideas and images. Afterwards, we’ll head across the street to Gari Columbus for the best sushi on the Upper West Side. 

I like to stroll downtown and stop at the Astro Gallery of Gems – Fairfax and I are huge collectors of crystals of all kinds. Then it’s on to Books of Wonder for the kids, followed by the photography shop Adorama for the Leica cameras, my weakness. 

We all love ABC Carpet & Home for things we don’t need, from tarot cards to all manner of drinking glasses. If we time it right, we’ll go to ABCV, Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s new plant-based restaurant: the spinach spaghetti and roasted mushrooms are not to be missed. 

Our afternoon stops include Grimm Gallery on The Bowery and the David Zwirner and Hauser & Wirth galleries in Chelsea. We’re building a gallery on West 25th Street, so I’ll go by and check on the progress, then we’ll walk our Maltese, Matisse in Madison Square Park and return home for a little meditation before dinner. Saturday nights are either early – at I Sodi, where you have to go at 5.30pm to get a table because the pastas are so fantastic – or late, tequila-fuelled affairs at Cosme, where the Mexican chef makes excellent marinated cobia al pastor.

Fairfax’s meals are more elaborate than mine, so Sunday’s avocado toast comes with nettles and chillies. On these leisurely mornings, we watch CBS Sunday Morning for an upbeat start, followed by CNN for the bad news – and we never miss The New York Times.

I’ll go to the Equinox gym for a quick, intensive workout. I believe the trick to consistent exercise is to not have a trainer; it’s just another relationship that gets in the way. 

In the afternoon, we’ll make time for our family band – between us we play the guitar, the ukulele and the drums. Then we’ll head to EN, the Japanese brasserie, where I order the salmon rice and steamed gingko nuts for sharing, or to Il Buco in NoHo, where the intimate atmosphere and the sinful porchetta make for a cosy and delicious meal. 

The day winds down with The Leftovers, my current favourite TV programme. Then I pack my bags for Palo Alto, or London, or Seoul…”

Daniele Riva’s perfect weekend on Lake Como

The master builder of the Cantiere Ernesto Riva is the eighth generation of the Como family to craft exquisite wooden boats, from simple skiffs to vaporinas, entirely by hand

“Lake Como is the best place to be in summer; the weather is good, the food excellent and it’s very safe – the doors are always open. Little has changed here over the centuries and the days are very carefree. My weekends are spent in nature, either out on the water or hiking and biking with my children, Sara and Stefano. 

Saturday starts at Poletti, in the small town of Laglio where I live; the cappuccino and jam-filled croissants are the best you’ll find anywhere. This place is an institution and everyone comes here to start their day with bread, cakes and pastries, including crisp chiacchiere during carnevale. I also like Da Luciano, another family-run place, at any time of day; it’s part café, part deli, part wine bar, and the bresaola is a must. 

After a light meal, we might hike around the lake, past the medieval Isola Comacina. The island once belonged to Milan, and when it finally gained independence in the 12th century it was burnt to the ground. Every year in late June we celebrate its independence with a festival of fireworks and music, and the island is lit up with red maritime lights. It is best to watch from the water on a Lucia, a traditional flat-bottom fishing boat; an Inglesina, a covered boat designed in the 19th century to protect the English from the strong sun; or from a vaporina, one of the chic mahogany motorboats synonymous with la dolce vita.

If we’re feeling energetic, we’ll hike all the way to Tremezzo. The villas and gardens lining the lake show off all the cultures and architectural styles that have touched this area over time, and one of my favourites to visit on a Saturday afternoon is the Villa Carlotta, across from Bellagio. The gardens are extraordinary; full of rhododendrons, azaleas, bamboo and all kinds of statues and fountains. I also love the spectacular 18th-century Villa del Balbianello, perched high above Lenno: it featured in Casino Royale and now showcases an incredible collection of artefacts from around the world.

Lenno is home to the glamorous Grand Hotel Tremezzo, but on a Saturday evening we’ll go there for La Fagurida, which serves authentic Lombardy cuisine. It has beautiful views of the lake – maybe the best – and the friendly owner, Adriana, serves excellent polenta uncia, a local dish with garlic, butter and sage. 

Il Sereno, the contemporary hotel designed by Patricia Urquiola, is another lovely spot to watch the sunset. It’s ideal for an aperitivo and they have a delicious tapas-style tasting menu. Or we might go to Blevio, home to Momi, for homemade pappardelle and fried lake fish such as perch or lavarello. The chef, Momi, holds cooking classes and will take six guests to the market in the morning and help them cook a hearty meal, prosecco in hand.

Sundays are for relaxing with friends and family and we’ll often go to Como, stopping to admire the gothic cathedral and the colourful Palazzo Broletto. La Vita è Bella, a small restaurant on the harbour is good for a light salad before visiting the fascinating Silk Museum. Como is more commercial than some of the other towns, but it has its charms. One of my favourite shops is L’Arte di Modellare il Cuoio, a little leather atelier that specialises in handmade accessories.

Later, I might take my electric boat Ernesto – named after my father – out on the lake, or we might ride the funicular up to the quaint town of Brunate, the place to enjoy mountain foods – creamy polenta, casoretta and zincarlin cheeses, and the local favourite, pizzoccheri, a buckwheat pasta dish. Full of good food and fresh air, I’m ready for the week ahead.”

A long weekend in Buenos Aires with Nacho Figueras

From the “best steak in the world” to boots fit for a prince, the polo champion and Ralph Lauren ambassador shares his local secrets with Christina Ohly Evans. Portrait by Javier Pierini

Architecturally and spiritually, Buenos Aires is a very European city, so it’s often referred to as ‘the Paris of South America’. There are a lot of similarities between the two, for sure – many of the parks and streets were designed by the same people – but in the end, the feel here is distinctly Latin. I think we have a very Spanish/Italian flair, with our love of food, style and overall enthusiasm for life. I travel the world, and no matter where else I visit, I always love BA best. It’s a magical city and it seems to exceed expectations every time.

There has been a rich mix of people and cultures over the past 100 years, and you really see that in the diverse architectural styles and neighbourhoods, as well as in the art and different cuisines. One of the most beautiful periods for Buenos Aires was the belle époque era in the early 1900s, when Argentina was one of the wealthiest countries in the world. During this time some spectacular buildings, such as the Alvear Palace Hotel in Recoleta, were built, and I always recommend a stay here if you want to feel the magic of old‑world Buenos Aires. It was totally renovated recently, but the big top-floor suites still have a classical feel and some have terraces overlooking the city.

The colourful façades of the city’s La Boca district | Image: Estock/4Corners Images

The Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt is another grand hotel that’s set in a former mansion, but it has a more minimalist feel than the Alvear. The unique thing here is the rear garden; it’s a complete urban oasis, and a great place to meet for drinks on a warm evening. Then there is the Home Hotel, in Palermo – our version of Williamsburg, Brooklyn – which has a more boutique-y feel, a Nordic-meets-South America design. The very simple but beautiful pool is surrounded by jasmine and all kinds of greenery. But of all the places to stay, one of the best-kept secrets is Estancia La Bamba de Areco, which is just an hour or so outside the city. If you’re looking for horseback riding, a real asado, authentic gauchos and polo playing, this place is just incredible.

The heart of Buenos Aires is the French heritage district of Recoleta, where you’ll find the more formal hotels and shops, as well as some of the best restaurants in the city. One of the most impressive sights here is Recoleta cemetery, which dates from the 18th century and is packed with mausoleums – some beautifully maintained and others in disrepair. Recoleta is the perfect area to shop, and Arandú is a great resource for all kinds of equestrian things; you’ll find cowboy boots, saddles and traditional gaucho bags in bright colours among three floors of gear. Florería Atlántico in Retiro is another favourite. It’s an incredibly fragrant flower shop by day and a lively bar by night, and they serve their own gin that’s flavoured with Argentinian yerba mate tea.

For a slightly more fun, funkier feel I like Palermo Soho and also the tree-lined streets of Palermo Chico. The best steak in the world is at La Cabrera, where the huge slabs of ojo de bife – or ribeye steak – are served with traditional sides and a chimichurri sauce made of garlic, chilli and coriander. The room will be packed with Argentines and tourists alike, and it’s a real taste of local life. Nicky NY is the place for sushi with a lot of ambience, but what I really love is the Harrison Speakeasy bar that’s downstairs. It has a very special, festive vibe, though getting in can be tricky.

This area has culture to offer as well, including the Museum of Latin American Art of Buenos Aires – or MALBA – where the modern and contemporary Latin American art is world class, and so is the granite building that contains the collection. The restaurant here – Ninina – is a perfect spot for a relaxing lunch outside on the patio.

Tango in San Telmo | Image: Getty Images

One of the best additions to Palermo Chico in the past few years is the concept boutique Casa Cavia. It’s set in a beautiful white mansion from the 1920s that’s been updated and now includes a restaurant, bar, flower shop and bookstore. I like to have lunch here because not only is the food excellent, the architecture is a mix of historical and contemporary features, and the scene is always lively.

If you’re looking for an haute cuisine experience, then Tegui in Palermo Viejo is the place to try star chef Germán Martitegui’s set menus, which include unique takes on Argentine classics. The chef is often there, making it feel intimate and special, and while the entrance is unassuming, it is regarded as one of the best restaurants in South America. So is Francis Mallmann’s Patagonia Sur in the colourful La Boca neighbourhood. It’s set in a brightly painted private house that only has space for a few people and offers a fixed six-course menu. I take every special guest here – Ralph Lauren, for example – and it’s a wow every time.

Congress Square in the heart of the city | Image: Getty Images/EyeEm

The more eclectic San Telmo neighbourhood is another area for exploration, and one of the best shops there is Juan Carlos Pallarols. This silversmith has an international following, and he makes things like the Pope’s chalice – Pope Francis is Argentinian – as well as silver roses and sets of steak knives. He is a true craftsman and his work is so intricate and specific to Buenos Aires. The area comes to life on Sundays, when the Feria de San Telmo antiques fair is held. It’s like our version of the Marché aux Puces, and you can find treasures ranging from early-20th-century linens to full sets of silverware to leather bags and furniture.

There are certain things associated with Buenos Aires, and tango, polo and football are all top of the list. For football fans, a Boca Juniors game is a must; the atmosphere is electric. You’ll find tango all over the city, but the performance at the Faena Hotel in Puerto Madero is among the best, as Rojo Tango gets the top dancers. Although it’s a modern hotel, this is the place to see this musical art form.

Recoleta’s Alvear Palace Hotel recently had a total renovation

Polo is a huge part of my life, but also life in Buenos Aires generally. In November, the Argentine Open is played in fields in the middle of the city and everyone turns out. Polo is played every day at the Cría Yatay polo club, on one of my estancias outside the city, where I also give lessons on occasion and where we host various club matches. This city is a great place to buy kit for the sport, and for polo boots there is none better than Casa Fagliano in Hurlingham. It’s about an hour outside the city, but worth it for the custom boots that are favoured by Prince Charles and the Sultan of Brunei. The family that runs it is amazing; three generations work in the shop, fitting and sewing the boots, and the whole experience feels like being in Geppetto’s workshop.

In the General Díaz area, where I live, there is a great shop for all things to do with tack, called Logi Polo. You’ll find everything here – from helmets to cool T-shirts to polo mallets, of course. For visitors to this area, I always recommend Fettuccine Mario for dinner. It’s a very special restaurant that gives any Italian trattoria a run for its money. This place is old-school; the knowledgeable waiters – most of whom have been there for 25 years – wear white jackets and there is nothing fussy or corporate in sight.

We’re still a little slower here than the rest of the world, and I mean this in the best sense. In general, it’s stayed the same over the years and that’s a good thing. It still feels special and historical, minus the cellphones. Honestly, an excellent cellphone service is a modern curse. I hope people will come here and put away their phones for just a little while, because there is so much beauty to see and so much to experience.

Dine in a Jean Cocteau work of art

It was a place of escape for Jean Cocteau and a summer gathering spot for Coco Chanel, Marlene Dietrich and Pablo Picasso – now guests at Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat can enjoy fine dining at La Villa Santo Sospir

Fine art meets fine dining on the French Riviera from June 1 through to August 15, when guests at the Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat can savour the surroundings of the iconic Villa Santo Sospir. The villa was a summer retreat of the poet, writer, artist and filmmaker Jean Cocteau, and a gathering place for luminaries such as Coco Chanel, Marlene Dietrich and Pablo Picasso. It sits high above the Mediterranean and is an ideal venue for a Michelin-starred, entirely bespoke, four-course dinner orchestrated by the hotel’s executive chef Yoric Tièche.

The dining experience will begin on the terrace where guests will enjoy the artist’s favourite aperitif – the bitter La Suze – while watching the sunset

Over the course of several years in the 1950s, Cocteau enlivened the residence of Francine Weisweiller (a patron to both Cocteau and Yves Saint Laurent) with a series of colourful murals, mosaics and frescoes – all of which remain today and make for a unique setting. The fine dining experiences can be arranged for up to six people and begin with a transfer from the Grand-Hôtel to the villa, followed by a tour of the property with long-time estate manager, Eric Marteau. After viewing Cocteau’s immersive masterpiece, guests will retire to the terrace to sip the artist’s favourite aperitif – the bitter La Suze – while watching the sunset.

A view of the intimate dining room where guests will be served a Michelin-starred, entirely bespoke, four-course dinner

The bedrooms are also adorned with Cocteau’s murals

The real fun, however, begins at dinner (from €4,200 for two, €286 per additional person and €150 per child under 12), a culinary odyssey conceived by chef Tièche and orchestrated by an on-site chef and maître d’ as guests are seated in the intimate sitting room – a spot where Cocteau and his friends once dined. 

A view of the dining area adjoining the sitting room at La Villa Santo Sospir

An appetiser of tartare de poisson | Image: Jean-Claude Amiel

The menus feature plenty of fresh fish and pay homage to the artist with the inclusion of some of his favourite dishes, such as roasted veal filet with girolle mushrooms and a savoury-sweet peach and almond purée, as well as a fricassée of lobster with black garlic. Appetisers include seasonal vegetable salads and catch-of-the-day tartares, while a verbena-infused apricot with sorbet makes for a refreshing endnote to the meal.

The World of Wellness at Switzerland's Bürgenstock Hotels & Resort

After a $550 million renovation, the classic Bürgenstock is now a world of wellness and pampering unto itself.

Courtesy Burgenstock Hotel

I was won over on the approach. As I took the boat ride across Lake Lucerne, I could see mountains for miles. I next hopped on a vintage funicular that climbed into the sky, bringing me to one of Switzerland’s most ambitious projects.

I had long heard about Bürgenstock, a mini-village that dates back to the 1870s, a place where Swiss society and boldface names like Audrey Hepburn would vacation in the 1950s. But I had to see it to grasp its sheer size and scope. The sprawling 148-acre property is made up of 30 disparate buildings. Some, including the chapel, are historic structures with that quintessential Alpine charm, while other, newer builds are more contemporary in style. The 102-room Bürgenstock Hotel is one of the newcomers, a modern building with plenty of muted limestone, oak, walnut, and quartz finishes, as well as magnificent floor-to-ceiling views of the water. My standard room featured an enormous sitting area with a brass fireplace, two bathrooms clad in Arana marble, and a sumptuous, lake-facing soaking tub.

This is just one of four hotels on the property. The Palace Hotel, built in 1903 and now impeccably restored, has a world-class art collection. The 12-room Taverne 1879 is an authentic Swiss guesthouse complete with antler-bedecked walls. And the recently opened Waldhotel rivals Lanserhof as one of Europe’s top medical spas, offering everything from nutritional counseling to cryotherapy. There’s also a 45,200-square-foot spa facility with a Finnish sauna and an ice room.

The resort has 12 restaurants, lounges, and bars, and over my four-night stay, I managed to try sashimi and dim sum at the excellent Spices Kitchen & Terrace, mezes at the light-filled Sharq Oriental, and an excellent foie gras terrine at RitzCoffier, the Bürgenstock’s nod to French fine dining.

But ultimately, it’s the great outdoors that beckon here, and the activities are limitless: gentle hikes along the cliff walk up to the Hammetschwand lift (reportedly Europe’s highest outdoor elevator), golf on the nine-hole course, and sailing in summer. Still, I found nothing was more beautiful or restorative than the lush Swiss countryside. Rooms from $650; buergenstock.ch.

Things Fathom Editors Want Right Now - Vol. 16

Tea.O.Graphy Tea

Assam from the northern hills of India, pink rosebuds and chamomile from a Provençal garden, a spicy tea blend inspired by Christmas in New Mexico — these are the cuppas that can transport you to another place any time you step into your kitchen. ($3 for a 3-cup sample; $11 and up for a 2 ounce package) - Jeralyn, editorial director 

Photo courtesy of Phaidon.

The Japanese Garden

Winter in New York City has me longing for greener days, which is why I have my eye on this gorgeous coffee table book. Through a series of essays and photographs, readers explore the art of the Japanese garden. ($43) – Berit, senior editor

Photo courtesy of Slughaus.

Slughaus Self-Healing Wolverine Pack

I have my eyes on this lightweight daypack for when the weather warms up and hiking through the woods without seven layers of clothing becomes an option. It’s packable down to the size of a smartphone, is weather resistant, and — get ready for this — made of regenerative fabric! Heat and friction from your fingertips is all that’s needed to heal small punctures made by branches, bramble, and any other sharp objects one might find on a nature walk. ($89) – Daniel, editor

Photo courtesy of Flight 001.

Flight 001 5-In-1 Adapter

The colorful multi-country travel adapter has been my go-to for staying powered on the road. Before I head to Singapore and Vietnam at the end of the month, I’m going to upgrade to the latest version, which features two built-in USB ports. – Berit, senior editor

Bringing It Home and Dinner in an Instant

It's February and I'm freezing, so I'm staying in, nesting and trying recipes from the latest cookbooks from my friends, both Fathom contributors. Top Chef judge Gail Simmons' Bringing It Home: Favorite Recipes from a Life of Adventurous Eating has me craving Vietnamese Omelets and Charred Grapefruit Mezcalita ($16.98). New York Times food columnist Melissa Clark, who writes a new book in the time it takes me to read 300 emails, inspired me to buy a pricey new gadget with Dinner in an Instant: 75 Modern Recipes for your Pressure Cooker, Multicooker + Instant Pot so I can make Green Persian Rice with Tahdig and Japanese Beef Curry ($13.96). Both authors — hooray! — were just nominated by International Association of Culinary Professionals as finalists for the best cookbook of the 2018. — Pavia, CEO

Flight Spray

Call me crazy, but I swear that the key to health is having moisturized airways. This holds particularly true for airplanes where the humidity levels are significantly lower than the Sahara Desert (fact). In an effort to stave off colds and this year's dreaded flu, I went online and read that this was THE nasal mist to keep flyers breathing right. It has a sort of herbal essence, and since I started using it I'm much more comfortable, especially on long haul flights. — Christina Ohly, Contributing Editor

Discover More Things We're Loving

Things Fathom Editors Want Right Now - Vol. 15
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Things Fathom Editors Want Right Now - Vol. 13

Now Do This: Best Travel Deals, Steals & News 2017

This is the 2017 edition of Now Do This, our monthly compendium of timely travel deals and special offers. The current edition is here.

Updated 12/20/17:

If you forgot to make year-end holiday plans, we found a few options still left. Where is Team Fathom spending their holidays? It's a mix. Half of us are in Australia, Singapore, San Miguel de Allende, and Peru; half of us are staying home and catching up on piles of novels, which is itself its own vacation. Whatever you do, have a great one.

TRIPS TO BOOK

Spain: Nestled among Spain's Rhonda mountains is the extremely dreamy La Donaira, an eco-certified horse farm with impeccable design details. The serene nine-room resort has five deluxe accommodations available over Christmas. Rates are 400€ per person per night and include all breakfasts, special holiday lunches and dinners, drinks and snacks in between meals, bicycles (cycling is big here) and the spa (indoor swimming pool, sauna, Turkish bath).

London and Paris: Paris Perfect, the apartment rental company we've covered before, and their UK counterpart London Perfect have deals for up to 25% off for Christmas and New Year's stays. Check Google Flights for the cheapest airfare, and you're off.

Rome: Get the new year off to an Eternal City start at Baglioni Hotel Regina. The NYE gala party will include live jazz, a big Italian dinner with big Italian drinks, a magic show, and a DJ after midnight. The three-night stay in a deluxe room starts at 2,850€. Email reservations.reginaroma@baglionihotels.com to book.

Worldwide with Kimpton: Beginning at 12 a.m. EST on New Year's Day, would-be guests at Viceroy hotels will have 72 hours to book discounts from 30% or more on properties in LA, SF, NY (45% on Viceroy Central Park), Chicago, Riviera Maya, and Abu Dhabi. Ski bums and snowbirds can take 20% off hotels in Snowmass and Saint Lucia.

Hampsire, England: Fancy a wintry jaunt to the English countryside? The Pig at Brockenhurst is offering a winter treat: you, plus one, on a midweek stay with breakfast and a souvenir bottle of house vino, for just £139. Valid January-February 2018, excluding hols, as Brits like to call them.

Saanenland, Switzerland: For those who want to enjoy the snow without actually playing in it, glam ski hideaway Gstaad Palace has a new offering called Between Heaven and Earth — lunch by helicopter over the Matterhorn, one of the highest mountains in the Alps.

WHERE WE’VE BEEN

I'm just back from the Bahamas, where I stayed at the new Baha Mar, a mega resort with a Grand Hyatt, a very chic SLS, and a soon-to-open Rosewood Hotel. On-site were countless pools, a tasty conch shack, and a big casino where I met killer lady dealers. But I was most impressed by a tour of studios and gallery of The Current, the hotel's curated program dedicated to Bahamian art and culture, led by local artist Steffon Grant. Quiet Harbour Island was more my speed, and I had a hard time leaving Bahama House, the new eleven-room compound from Eleven Experiences. I'll be back: I didn't drink enough mango daiquiris at Sip Sip, the legendary lunch restaurant. — Pavia, CEO

Earlier this month, I spent the most visually satisfying day in southern Connecticut, where I walked the rolling hills of Grace Farms, enjoyed a long lunch at the festively decorated Terrain, and toured The Inn at GrayBarns on the Silvermine River, followed by drinks at the cozy new restaurant. – Berit, editor

I spent early December in the French Alps (they're already covered in snow) for the grand opening of oh-so-stylish Club Med Grand Massif Samoëns Morillon. I hadn't done the all-inclusive thing since I was a kid, but it made my trip so, so easy, which was especially gratifying during this crazy time of year. I'm still pretty sore, but not sure if it's from all-day skiing or all-night dancing. – Kim, contributing writer

HOTEL INTEL

Last week we rounded up our top hotel openings of late 2017, including a new luxury tented safari camp in Sri Lanka, a stylish boutique hotel in Copenhagen, and a neo-gothic castle in the Irish countryside. It’s time to start planning your 2018 vacations.

Tennessee's most luxurious hotel, Blackberry Farm, has broken ground on a new property called Blackberry Mountain. Set among 5,200 acres of wild land, the hotel will fuse the fine dining they're already famous for and modern comforts with a rustic and adventurous mountain setting. The hotel is scheduled to open in February 2019, and we can't wait.

The making of a Hudson-inspired camera bag. Photo courtesy of Zio & Sons.

Updated 11/15/17:

TRIPS TO BOOK

Zambia: Spend your holidays in one of Africa’s last unspoiled wilderness regions. The Bushcamp Company is offering 30% off six-night stays at the award-winning Mfuwe Lodge as well as the recently renovated Kapamba and Zungulila Bushcamps. Priced at $2,100 per person and valid from December 1, 2017 - January 15, 2018. Mention “festive offer” at checkout.

Brooklyn, New York: Cook Space is a gorgeous and approachable culinary school offering an array of classes that range from dim sum and Vietnamese street food to Ayurvedic cooking. Receive a 15% discount when you signup for a class on Black Friday or Cyber Monday by using the codes BLACKFRIDAY2017 and CYBERMONDAY2017, respectively.

British Virgin Islands: Looking for a warm way to recover from Thanksgiving with the family? Head to the Caribbean for the Anegada Lobster Festival on November 25 and November 26th. (Yes, the Caribbean is open! And they want us to all go back!)

North Fork, New York: Looking for romance? Cozy up with your nearest and dearest at the classic-meets-modern Sound View, a renovated motel in Greenport. The secluded seaside resort is offering a winter package that includes a romantic meal for two at The Halyard, plus four bottles of local wine. Rates start at $340, with a two-night minimum.

Charleston, South Carolina: Bookmark this Cyber Monday sale: Well-heeled travelers can save 25% off their stay at The Spectator Hotel between December 1, 2017 - August 31, 2018. Offer available from November 27 - December 1, 2017.

Borneo: The Great Projects (who we've covered before on Fathom) are offering their oragnutan voluntourism trip in Borneo at 15% off if booked by November 30. Check out the earnest promo video they made about volunteering to see lots of cute monkey business.

New York, New York: Reasons to visit The Whitby hotel this holiday season: a Thanksgiving-themed package, holiday wreath-making class with master florist Lewis Miller, Sunday movie club with seasonal classics like It’s a Wonderful Life and Home Alone 2, and a special New Year’s Eve evening.

Singapore: This fall marked the opening of the first Andaz hotel in Southeast Asia. Conveniently located just 20 minutes from Changi airport, Andaz Singapore is having a 20% off sale on standard rate room bookings through January 31, 2018.

WHERE WE’VE BEEN

I just returned from the Caribbean Wine and Food Festival in Turks and Caicos, where the spirit of endurance and recovery was both touching and strong. I stayed at Grace Bay Club — one of my favorites — and toured The Residences, their gorgeous new five-bedroom villas, which come with a pool, a private chef, and a secluded white-sand beach. (I so want to come back with a gang...) The final dinner of the festival was held at The Shore Club, the swank new sister property of The Palms, which has one of the prettiest spas I've ever seen. - Pavia, CEO

On a recent fall photo walk around Hudson, New York, I crossed these places off my upstate wish list: restaurant and boardroom Wm Farmers & Sons, home decor boutique Hawkins, and This Old Hudson, a studio space and weekend lodging option from the creative agency Zio & Sons, who just released a very stylish Hudson-inspired camera bag in collaboration with ONA. – Daniel, editor

HOTEL INTEL

Drum roll please: Aman Resorts has announced their next city destination will be New York City. Scheduled to open in 2020, the Jean-Michel Gathy-designed 83-room hotel will occupy the iconic Crown Building overlooking Central Park.

COMO Hotels and Resorts is opening a new oceanside retreat. COMO Echo Beach is slated to open in February in Canggu, a quaint coastal village with a six-mile beach that boasts some of Bali’s best surf breaks.

Later this winter, Collective Retreats, the pop-up travel company with outposts in Vail, Yellowstone, and Hudson Valley, will open Collective Hill Country, a Retreat at Montesino Ranch. Located on 225 acres of ranch and organic farmland, the Wimberly, Texas glamping site will have 12 tents outfitted in plush beds with 1,550-thread-count Egyptian cotton linens and “farm-to-flame” dining.

Updated 10/18/17:

TRIPS TO BOOK

• Tel Aviv: Hotel Montefiore is hosting Michelin-star chef Bo Bech of Geist Restaurant in Copenhagen as part of this year’s Amex Round Tables event in Tel Aviv, November 12-17.

• Hollywood, Florida: The Diplomat Beach Resort, the iconic Florida hotel fifteen minutes south of Fort Lauderdale airport, has just completed a stylish and fun $100 million renovation. Consider it a family-friendly, laid-back alternative to South Beach.

• India: Holiday in style with a spectacular Abercrombie & Kent nine-day tour of India that includes two visits to the Taj Mahal (sunrise and sunset) and a sail on the shimmering Lake Pichola. Prices from $8,995 per person.

• Papua New Guinea: Try your hand at island survival with Oceana Expeditions Kabakon Survivor experience. Guests are dropped off on a secluded island and left to fend for themselves (with a little help, of course).

• Puglia, Italy: Dreaming about opening your own boutique hotel? Here’s your chance. Pre-book your stay at Amberlair, a historic villa surrounded by olive trees and vineyards that is crowdsourcing funding to meet their 2020 opening date.

• Europe: Cross the continent the scenic way. Eurail is having a 20 percent off sale for train passes purchased through December, including Global Pass (good in 28 countries), Select Pass (2-4 bordering countries), and One Country Pass (choose from 22).

• Catskill Mountains, New York: Reasons to visit Scribner's Lodge this fall: Yoga for Bad People and fly fishing with Esopus Creel (10/27-29), bushwhacking (11/4), and a stay-three-nights-for-the-price-of-two weekday special.

• Big Sur, California: Highway One is open! After a massive landslide wiped out a section of the road, the iconic route on the Cali coast is welcoming cars once again. Quick, make a reservation for Post Ranch Inn.

WHERE WE’VE BEEN

• Great rainy day hang: Sir Adam, a new Design Hotels property in Amsterdam Noord. It has hearty burgers, games, 'zines, huge floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the river, and a rock-and-roll vibe. Jump on the ferry for literally one minute and you're at Central Station. – Jeralyn, editorial director

• I’m still thinking about my long weekend at São Lourenço do Barrocal, a stylish family-run farm estate in Portugal’s Alentejo region. I spent my days reading by the pool, dining on farm-fresh cuisine, and indulging in treatments at the Susanne Kaufmann Spa. – Berit, senior editor

• In Marrakech for the Pure travel show, I stayed at three great hotels. Opulent Hotel Selman outside the city has a pool that goes on forever and a dazzling equestrian program. In the medina, Villa des Orangers delivers understated luxury at its finest (and has a cute resident turtle!), while La Sultana is a labyrinth of sumptuous connecting riads. I ate so well at all of them. – Pavia, CEO

• While in Marrakech, Jeralyn and I attended a preview of the stunning new Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech, adjacent to Jardin Majorelle. Along with Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris, it's one of two new institutions dedicated to the designer who so loved Morocco. – Pavia, CEO

• One of the most memorable experiences from a recent day in Madrid was walking through El Matadero, a former municipal slaughterhouse-turned-vibrant multidisciplinary art center. A design center, theater, cinema, cafe, multiple gallery spaces, and plenty of beautiful public space are set on what used to be a gruesome and miserable plot of land. The juxtaposition is sort of like art in itself. – Daniel, editor

HOTEL INTEL

• Considering Ghent, Belgium, for our next Euro escape, so we can book a stay at 1898 The Post, a stunning neo-gothic post office-turned-boutique hotel.

• Relais Christine, a Fathom Favorite in Paris, has just finished a chic renovation by designer Laura Gonzalez. A Guerlain spa will open this month.

• This month marks the opening of Dave, a new affordable boutique hotel with a fun-loving attitude in the heart of Tel Aviv.

• Classic Americana is a nice weekend aesthetic. Try it on in spring 2018, when the Blackburn Inn opens in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia.

Festival of Lights in Thailand. Photo courtesy of Remote Lands.

Updated 8/16/17:

TRIPS TO BOOK

• Paris and London: Need an excuse for a last-minute city break? Perfect Experiences, the luxury apartment rental and concierge service, is offering up to 30 percent on stays of up to five nights or more through September 25, 2017.

• Big Sur, California: Take to the skies with a chopper ride over one of the USA's most stunning landscapes. While Highway 1 is undergoing repairs, the iconic southern route to Big Sur is accessible to guests of Post Ranch Inn via helicopter from Hearst Castle Pergola in San Simeon, California. The Hearst Castle helicopter package is available through October 7, 2017.

• Scandinavia: Go see what all the fuss is about in Copenhagen, Stockholm, and Oslo. Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) is having a big sale, with deals from $499 round-trip for travel between their seven US gateways and Europe from October 4 and May 31. Don't wait: The sale ends August 24.

• Cartagena: If you haven't been to Colombia yet, here's a great reason to head down. Our pals at Skylark scored a great airfare-plus-hotel deal at the chic and charming Tcherassi Hotel. (You'll have to join Skylark to get the rates.)

• Marfa, Texas: For Burning Man vibes in the West Texas desert, head to the 12th annual Trans-Pecos Festival of Music + Love. The communal, nomadic campground concept (guests sleep in vintage trailers, Sioux-style tepees, yurts, and safari tents) runs from September 28 to October 1, 2017.

• Chesapeake Bay, Maryland: Classic car aficionados will want to head to Inn at Perry Cabin by Belmond from September 21-26 for the return of the Concours d'Elgance. The hotel is celebrating the three-day event with a special package that includes accommodations, champagne, and VIP tickets.

• Asia: If you've got a spare $64,888 in a cupboard somewhere, consider Remote Land's 17-day, Aman Hotels journey through Asia. Sixteen people will fly private jet and hotel-hop from China to Bhutan to India to Sri Lanka from October 8-24. If you want even more, the 21-day trip in April includes Vietnam, Montenegro, and Japan.

• Southeast Asia: Another reason to fly east in the spring: May is the kickoff for planting season in Cambodia and Vietnam. Get your fill of lush tropical landscapes on an Aqua Expeditions Mekong River cruise during "green season." Book now to take advantage of the special summer rate of 30 percent off departures between May 1-July 27, 2018.

WHERE WE'VE BEEN

• I went on a grand hotel tour in London last July. In brief: I spent opening night at Nobu Hotel Shoreditch, the chain's first standalone hotel, where I loved the calm Zen vibe and the brass fittings in the bathroom (really! they were gorgeous!). I toured the don't-call-it-a-Soho-House Ned and tried to count the 400 restaurants in the former bank building (kidding, though barely). I previewed the trippy Mandrake, which has the best multi-beast taxidermied kangaroo-deer-peacock I've ever seen, as well as a beautiful atrium with hanging vines. I found Flemings Mayfair to be as great as Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly says it is. And I had my best meal of the trip at chef Ollie Dabbous's restaurant at super charming Henrietta Hotel in Covent Garden. That is all. – Pavia, CEO

• I have a long list of cute Hudson Valley B&Bs to check out, but had a helluva time finding one that allows kids. One of our 24 Best Travel Blogs & Websites, And North, tipped me off to Audrey's Farmhouse, a very cozy, 280-year-old farmhouse in Wallkill, run by a cool couple who outfitted five bedrooms and a cottage with chic furniture, Aesop toiletries, coffee table books, and taxidermy. They make a killer breakfast, converted a pool into a natural swimming hole (with frogs!) and set up a few hammocks, walking paths, and a fire pit in their big backyard. Looking forward to going back once snow falls. – Jeralyn, editorial director

• I checked into to the recently opened Hotel RL, a budget-friendly property on the border of Bushwick and Bed-Stuy with a charming back garden, decent lobby bar, and community-oriented performance space. I'm glad that more boutique hotels are popping up in Brooklyn, especially outside Williamsburg, though this one felt more like a step above a hostel than anything else. Still, being able to earn a free night stay by donating to Project Wake Up Call, the hotel's partner philanthropic initiative, is a nice way to book an affordable room in the heart of Brooklyn. – Daniel, editor

HOTEL INTEL

• We've got our eye on the late August arrival of Proper Hotel San Francisco, a new hotel concept from former Viceroy Hotels CEO Brad Korzen and his design superstar wife Kelly Wearstler. Also in the pipeline are outposts in Hollywood, Downtown LA, Austin, and Santa Monica.

• Later this month, Verride Palacio Santa Catarina, an 18th-century Portuguese palace-turned-hotel will be making its debut in the heart of Lisbon.

• Renowned Danish ballet dancer Alexander Kølpin is behind the fall opening of Sanders, a stunning 54-room boutique hotel in Copenhagen's historic center.

• Edition Hotels is making a big commitment to Tokyo. Come 2020, the Ian Schrager-designed boutique will open not one, but two new properties.

Updated 7/18/17:

• How can you go on safari without using a year's worth of vacation days? Nomad Tanzania's Streamlined Safari is a good option. In six days, you'll see a Discovery Channel checklist: the Serengeti plains, the Ngorongoro crater, a Masaai tribe, and, of course, amazing wildlife. It's available year-round, but if you want to see the Great Migration, go between June and November. Rates begin at $5,283.

• It's not too late to book a trip to see this summer's total solar eclipse — the first in decades. On August 21, 2017, the newly opened Anvil Hotel in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, will host a jam-packed day of fun events, including a moon-flow yoga class, local bands, and a tailgate lunch. Individual tickets are $375 and can be reserved by calling the hotel directly, or come for a four-night stay, which starts at $1,145.

• At LE Miami last month, we learned about La Donaira, a gorgeous eco-minded retreat in southern Spain. From August 18-22, they're hosting their first Pause Festival, five days of concerts, yoga,workshops, tapas, and vino. The big idea? To connect by disconnecting. Sounds like an excellent excuse to go see it all firsthand.

• Dreaming of Iceland? The Nordic country's affordable air carrier, Wow Air, has launched a new route connecting Chicago's O'Hare (ORD) to Keflavík (KEF). One-way fares start at $150.

• Start planning your trip to the biggest balloon fiesta in the world, the 46th Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta, which takes place October 7-15, 2017, in Albuquerque, New Mexico. Check out the daily schedule of events.

• If you're looking for a summer steal, consider a last-minute getaway to Cabo San Lucas, Mexico, where you can save 30 percent on luxury villas and residences at Esperanza, an Auberge Resort.

• Enjoy summer in Amsterdam like the Dutch do. Conservatorium, a Fathom Favorite hotel, is offering a Welcome to Holland package, which includes a private cycling tour, canal boat ride, and a picnic in Vondelpark through September 17, 2017. Rates start at €566.50 and require a two-night stay.

• The beautifully renovated Pulitzer Amsterdam is conducting a little VIP action during the annual Grachtenfestival, August's ten-day classical music showcase for emerging and established talent. Guests of the hotel can enjoy cocktails, bites, and concerts in the inner garden (8/13 and 8/16), not to mention incredible seats for The Pulitzer Concert, which is staged on pontoons floating on the water directly in front of the hotel. Really get into the spirit by booking the Music Collector's Suite, a two-room suite complete with a collection of vinyl, a vintage record player, and instruments.

If you want help planning any of these trips, email us at travel@fathomaway.com to book through the Fathom Travel Desk.

Updated 4/28/17:

• Want to show mom Mother's Day love? Take her away. 21C, our favorite museum-cum-hotel in Lexington, Kentucky, is offering a Renew, Refresh, Relax package for an overnight stay in corner room, $100 spa credit, breakfast, and a Malin + Goetz gift bag.

• One for the family: Memorial Day weekend at Mohonk Mountain House in upstate New York. The agenda includes A Jelly Bean Field Day and a magic show for the littles, tomahawk throwing and archery for the apathetic teens.

• It's Great Migration season though Serengeti National Park in Tanzania, and to celebrate the arrival of the zebras (by the hudreds of thousands!) and widebeests (a million of 'em!), Four Seasons Safari Lodge Serengeti is giving guests the fourth night free.

• Do you do that thing where you go on vacation and find yourself planning your next vacation? We do, too. The folks at Baglioni Resort Cala del Porto, a fantastic Tuscan hotel that we visited last year, will give guests who go to Italy two free nights at their sister hotel Baglioni Resort Maldives. Yes, you'll be thanking your July vacation in January.

Troutbeck Is (Once Again) New York City's Perfect Retreat

The just-opened Troutbeck hotel is a unique Hudson Valley hideaway that’s at once historic, low-key, and luxurious. Christina Ohly takes a look around.

AMENIA, New York — All the cool kids are flocking to the Hudson Valley — and for good reason. They’re drawn to the lush landscape, the fine cuisine, and the lack of traffic and pretense. So it has always puzzled me why there are so few — if any — really lovely, top-notch places to stay around here. 

The scene has just changed for the better with the opening of the re-envisioned Troutbeck, a 250 year-old inn-cum-gathering spot in Amenia that has played host to Ralph Waldo Emerson, Henry David Thoreau, Mark Twain, Ernest Hemmingway, Governor Teddy Roosevelt, and such giants of the civil liberties movement as Sinclair Lewis, W.E.B. Du Bois, Thurgood Marshall, and Langston Hughes.

You’re swept up in the history of the place from the approach: a glorious lawn leading to a massive slate-covered Manor House. The building has seventeen highly individualized rooms — some sprawling suites, some intimate doubles that are perfect for a one-night escape. They were designed by Alexandra Champalimaud, whose storied hotel credits include The Hotel Bel-Air and The Carlyle. But this project is personal: Not only is she a nearby resident, but her son Anthony Champalimaud is the hotelier running the luxurious compound.

Troutbeck is personal for me, too, as my mother lives in the area. I initially came for lunch, having heard that the chef from Fish & Game, a wonderful Dutchess County restaurant, had landed here.

I was beyond impressed by the food and the ambience. What started as a quest for a simple salad and sandwich led to a leisurely lunch with Anthony, who spent hours telling me incredible stories of Troutbeck’s past and showing me around the 45-acre property, including the rooms at the separate Century House. Cottages, which are slated to open next summer, will no doubt appeal to discerning travelers who love their privacy.

BOOK IT

Rates change seasonally and typically range from $225-$900 depending on room type. Click here for reservations.

Checking In

Location
The Dutchess County property is just two easy hours from New York City on border of Litchfield County, Connecticut. The setting is ideal throughout the seasons: Hiking, biking, snowshoeing, reading by a roaring fire, and swimming in the pool in summer are just a few of the activities on offer.

Hotel Style
The current owners — a consortium of area residents who prefer to stay under the radar — have preserved the rich roots of Troutbeck while updating it for today’s tasteful (and demanding) traveler. The original slate tiles remain on the exterior of the Manor House, but interiors have been lightened to create warm, minimalist, homey spaces. The guest rooms are highly individualized and honor the original woodwork, windows, and quirky configurations, but have been updated with LCD TVs, Tivoli Audio Bluetooth everything, and Frette linens that making lying in a must.

This Place Is Perfect For
Couples looking for a weekend escape, anyone looking to gather a group of friends for the ultimate and intimate house party, and families with older children who seek a dose of nature and maybe skiing at nearby Mohawk Mountain. Troutbeck is also perfect for history buffs and, come to think of it, anyone looking to write their next, great novel.

What’s on Site
The smart owners have thought of virtually everything a picky Manhattanite might need, and gear is plentiful supply. No need to pack snowshoes, tennis rackets, yoga mats, children’s toys, or even chic Kenyan Kikoy towels for swaddling post-swim. It’s all here.

The food is no afterthought and is in plentiful supply. The spacious main restaurant seats 76 and serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Seating options include cozy booths, an inviting farm table for twelve in front the fireplace, and an outdoor deck for casual suppers under the stars. It has become a magnet for locals, so be sure to book ahead. The seasonal poolside grill serves incredible burgers. A fully stocked pantry (with a cute Smeg fridge) is a nice touch for returning outdoor enthusiasts or anyone in search of cocktail hour nibbles.

Number of Rooms
There are 37 total guest rooms in the Manor House and Century House, with nine suites and multiple connecting configurations possible. Cottages will open in the summer.

In-Room Amenities
The WiFi is excellent, as are the Malin & Goetz bath products that match Troutbeck’s low-key yet luxurious aesthetic. Thick Frette robes, down duvets, radiant heated bathrooms, soaking tubs with smart book caddies, and breakfast in bed are among the thoughtful touches.

Drawbacks
I am hard-pressed to identify one, but, if pushed, a few of the rooms are dark. The building is old and made of wood and slate, so this is to be expected. If this is an issue, request a light-filled room upon booking.

Standout Details
The standouts are the original features that have been painstakingly preserved, like the Walled Garden dating from 1916 that’s tiered over two levels and feels like a magical escape. And the stylish pole barn now strewn with little white lights to make for an ideal party setting. A sweet old stone chapel makes the visitor feel like they’re in Ye Olde England.

In terms of contemporary standouts, the food and service make Troutbeck feel so warm and welcoming. I’ve never had a more delicious (if elevated!) grilled cheese sandwich, and the staff are all so incredibly kind and accommodating that the hotel feels, to borrow an overused cliché that really fits, like a home away from home.

Checking Out

Surroundings
The 45 wooded acres of Troutbeck have it all: streams for fishing (poles are provided), hiking trails, towns dotted with cute antique shops, bucolic spots for morning yoga. It’s a quiet, natural setting just perfect for quick restoration.

What to Do Nearby
You’re in striking distance of all sort of interesting options, like the artist-run The Wassaic Project and MassMOCA in nearby Lenox, Massachusetts, a world-class art destination that’s worth a day trip. So is a detour north to the antique-filled town of Hudson for mid-century and vintage furniture at Red Chair on Warren and beautifully curated finds at Finch. Fuel up on inventive pizzas at Baba Louie’s before heading south to explore the quaint towns of Litchfield, Kent, and Salisbury with their postcard-perfect white church steeples. For those with a need for speed, Lime Rock Park offers race car driving lessons and skiers will love nearby Mohawk Mountain.

Plan Your Trip

How to Get There
Troutbeck is an easy two-hour drive from New York City and six minutes away from the Wassaic train station that’s serviced by MetroNorth. Stewart International Airport is an hour away and is serviced by flights from Europe and Canada.

Getting Around
A car is definitely helpful as there is so much to explore — towns, parks, stores, and art galleries. The hotel will happily pick up guests from the train station, so if you plan to sit still and lounge on property, a train trip with no car works perfectly well.

Keep Exploring the Hudson Valley

A Romantic Hudson Valley Retreat For All Seasons
A Romantic Hudson Valley Retreat For All Seasons
A Storm King Kind of Sunday
The Best of City and Country Rolled into One Little Weekend in Hudson, NY

A Winsome Stay at Zurich's Widder Hotel

Modernism meets medieval history at the Widder Hotel on the shores of Lake Zurich.

ZURICH — Zurich is having something of a design moment and a foodie moment. So much so that I'd say the Swiss lakes are giving Italy a run for its money. Visitors are in for rare treats in the beautifully preserved city on the shores of Lake Zurich. 

I was especially taken on my recent visit when I stayed at the Widder Hotel, a five-star, design-led boutique in the heart of the quaint Old Town. A series of townhouses from the 15th-century have been expertly combined to create a 49-room sanctuary, with two restaurants and one very chic bar scene.

The hotel’s authentic shuttered façade overlooks Rennweg, a pedestrian street in the quiet Augustiner quarter, a perfect jumping-off point for exploration. I loved this neighborhood of medieval church spires and cobblestone walkways, but it was the juxtaposition of styles at The Widder that really won me over. From the intimate library (original stone walls, Eames chairs, state-of-the-art, wood-burning stove) to the sleek glass elevators, the Widder is a wonderful discovery for tourists, foodies, and business travelers alike.

Book It

Design Double Rooms start at CHF470 ($480). The penthouse (CHF4,000) has fireplaces, terraces, and bi-level spaces ideal for large groups and long-term stays. Check for availability.

Checking In

This place is stylish from the minimalist check-in desk. Everyone, from the helpful concierges to the valets, is clad in sleek suits (and appears under low, directional lighting). It feels polished and luxurious. You’ll want to enlist the help of the connected concierge for advice on exploring the surrounding historic neighborhood and for help booking the best tables.

Location
Set in the heart of the Old Town, the location can’t be beat for its proximity to not only the business district, but also to the unspoiled beauty of Lake Zurich, the Limmat River, and the snow-capped Alps. The bustling shopping street, Bahnhofstrasse, is steps away, but it is the peaceful surrounding streets that make the location so special. Tip: Hundreds of church bells on Sunday mornings make for a rare symphony.

Hotel Style
Modernism meets medieval history with original, rough-hewn oak beams integrated with glass and chrome walls. It feels less like a hotel and more like a guest lounge. The Igloo, a winter pop-up that runs from November 2 to January 31, 2018, is a glass atrium bar that's been transformed into an all-white winter wonderland serving icy cocktails and traditional Raclette.

This Place Is Perfect For
The Widder is ideal for business travelers (it’s quiet and just steps from the Financial District), curious tourists, and design lovers (the mix of original oak finishes and cutting edge LED TVs and glass elements are just fascinating). The whole place is something of an engineering feat.

But Not So Perfect For
The Widder isn’t as perfect as say, Dolder Grand, for families with young kids. It has a quieter tone — and no swimming pool — and it caters to a slightly older crowd.

What’s on Site
A subterranean fitness center with TechnoGym equipment is excellent for curing jet lag (personal training and nutritional coaching are available), but this isn’t a spa destination. For that, book in at the nearby Dolder Grand for the Norman Foster-designed spa with every state-of-the-art, soothing treatment under the Swiss sun.

Food + Drink
Breakfast is often included in the room rate (subject to booking) and the bright AuGust brasserie offers everything from homemade Bircher muesli to croissants, with a vast selection of teas and frothy coffees. The more formal Widder Bar & Kitchen is a destination for locals and serves a weird mélange of cuisines — Swiss favorites, curries, themed tasting menus focused on a specific ingredient (recent examples include chili, cilantro, basil). The Widder Bar Summer Lounge is a truly special, leafy niche that’s "open in fine weather” from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m.

The Rooms
There are 49 rooms and suites featuring different design elements and color schemes. No two are the same. Most feature original woodwork and stone finishes, and each feels like light-filled, sumptuous oasis.

In-Room Amenities
Movement-sensitive night lights, adjustable mattresses, bathroom mirrors with integrated TVs, Bang & Olufsen stereos, Nespresso machines, minibars stocked with Swiss chocolates, and excellent, free WiFi are all standard.

Drawbacks
I liked everything, but certain rooms are darker than others. (Request the bright Room 403 for energizing blue details and a Le Corbusier couch.)

Standout Detail
The service here is lovely — a mix of organized excellence and warmth. The staff makes every effort to over-deliver, and if the hotel car is free and waiting, they will happily take you to nearby sights or even to the airport (as was the case when I departed at 5 a.m.). Personalized business cards for your stay are a nice touch.

Checking Out

Neighborhood
The Old Town is a magical part of Zurich — there are no cars or chain stores! (Save one Starbucks that I spotted.) The 15th- and 16th-century buildings, and particularly the churches with their enormous clock faces, make this feel like a blissful, old-fashioned time warp.

What to Do Nearby
For a cultural fix, don’t miss the Kunsthaus with its collection of Giacometti, Munch, Picasso, and Matisse, and the contemporary Kunsthalle gallery. But it is the surrounding streets — and natural beauty — that are most special. St. Peter’s Church, with the largest church clock in Europe, is a one-minute walk from the hotel. The stained glass windows by Marc Chagall at the Fraumünster Church are definitely worth a detour.

Don’t miss the concierge’s recommendations that cover everything from food to nearby walks. One of my favorites is Schwarzenbach, a must for foodie delights of all kinds — global teas, chocolates, and every kind of dried fruit imaginable. Spitzenhaus is more than just a parfumerie; the owners have curated a luxurious mini scent museum that provides an incredible education. Limited Stock is a spare, tasteful design store full of artisanal things from Europe and Japan set in an old blacksmith’s atelier.

Good to Know
This is a walking city, so pack shoes accordingly. If possible, don’t miss a Sunday morning in the Old Town. I had no idea how special this would be.

Plan Your Trip

The airport is about 30 minutes from the hotel in traffic, and the train station is just minutes away. Before leaving the airport, get a ZürichCARD travel and discount pass for access to all public transport, including trams, trolley buses, and trains that run in the most timely Swiss fashion. The pass also covers admission to many museums.

Getting Around
The city is largely free of cars, making it perfect for exploring on foot. Taxis are widely available as well.

Explore More Great Swiss Hotels

Bathing Rituals of an Alpine Spa
Swissotel is the Place to Stay in Dresden, AKA Florence on the Elbe 
I'm 25 in Switzerland. Life Should Always This Good

Vladislav Doronin’s perfect weekend in Miami

The founder of Capital Group counts Aman and the forthcoming Missoni Baia in Miami among his hospitality and residential holdings

“Miami is such a dynamic place and there is always something to do, from tennis tournaments to Art Basel to the annual boat show. But what I love most is the weather: the sun and the outdoor lifestyle really agree with me, and I think it’s a very good, easy‑going place to raise children.

Saturday mornings at my home on Star Island begin at 8am with a cup of hot water, followed by Qigong meditation with the Tibetan monks I’ve been training with for a few years. This time is all about breathing and movement, and it clears my meridians and chakras. Afterwards I’ll go for a run on the beach with my trainer, or a long swim.

Breakfast is around 10am, and includes papaya, porridge, avocados and miso soup, plus eggs or turkey for protein. I’ll drink green tea and maybe some spicy green juice, which stokes my immune system. Saturdays in Miami are about family, and we always have at least six or seven people around the table, including my parents, plus my partner and children.

Much of the day is spent on the water, and if the weather is really nice we’ll head to Bimini or Eleuthera on my Riva Domino for a day in the Bahamas. More often, though, we’ll go by tender to Seaspice Restaurant for lunch overlooking the Miami River. The atmosphere is lively and the food healthy – I particularly like the salads and fresh fish. Or I might take my speedboat, a Wider 42, over to Key Biscayne and kite-surf with my trainer. I absolutely love this sport, so if we go, it’s at least a two-hour commitment.

I love spending time with my new English bulldog, Mozart, and I often walk him in Bayfront Park, which was redesigned by Isamu Noguchi in the 1980s. If the weather isn’t perfect, the afternoon might involve a visit to the Pérez Art Museum or the Bass Museum. I collect contemporary art and love both of these collections. I’ll also drop into the Taschen Store to stock up on art books. In the evening we like to eat out, and one of my favourite places is Casa Tua in Miami Beach. The owner, Miky Grendene, always takes good care of us. We’ll sit out in the lantern-lit back garden and enjoy simple pasta with tomato and basil, or a risotto with truffles. Another place for a night out is Cipriani, where I’ll order sharing plates of baby artichokes and marinated aubergine. The pan-roasted veal with limone is superb too, and I do like a good Tuscan red wine – a Gaia or an Ornellaia. I’m not so much a clubbing guy these days but if I do go out, it might be to the Wall Lounge in the W Hotel. In any case, I am usually in bed by midnight.

Sunday begins the same way, with meditation and exercise – but then I might go for a drive in my 1965 Jaguar E-Type. I love to drive and don’t often get the chance in London, so this is a real treat. I’ll probably end up having lunch with friends at Kyu in the Wynwood district, where the plant-focused food is light and easy. I like this place so much that it influenced our Japanese restaurant Nama, at Amanpuri. Later on, I’ll take the boat out for a cruise around Biscayne Bay and the islands, and do some fishing. You see the most beautiful sunsets from Key Biscayne, where there is less boat traffic and the views are unobstructed. For a drink I like the bar at The Setai –the Asian-inspired atmosphere is very relaxing. Then it’s home for dinner, prepared by my chef Fabrizio, which might include the fish we’ve caught that day. To end the day, I’ll watch a film or a TV series like Billions or Marco Polo in our 4D cinema. Often I fly back to London to arrive on Monday morning, but my Miami weekends give me an amazing energy and after just two days my batteries are fully recharged.”

US Road Trips: The Northeast

The quintessential city escape: seaside retreats, rolling hills, secluded lakes, beachy hangouts, sunset beers. Pack up and hit the highway with this list of weekend road trip destinations in the northeast United States. Are we there yet?

Jump to: Connecticut | Maine | Maryland | Massachusetts | New York | Rhode Island | Vermont

Photo courtesy of Privet House.

Head to Southport/Westport

If you're in the mood for low-key antiquing and the beach. The Delmar Hotel and Artisan restaurant are around the corner from what is, quite possibly, the sweetest, tiniest town. Terrain, Anthropologie's stunning offshoot (greenhouse, garden center, cafe), has a packed summer lineup of classes and events.
Route to take: Straight shot on I-95, 90 minutes from Manhattan.
Good to know: The Gray Goose Cafe is adorable for lunch.

Head to Greenwich

If you're in the mood for fresh air and fancy shopping. Hit "The Ave" for boutiques like Privet House. Enjoy a leisurely lunch at local favorite Meli Melo, where specialties include French onion soup and freshly squeezed OJ. If you're still around for dinner, stroll down to L'Escale for harborside dining and specialty cocktails named for the seven heavenly virtues.
Route to take: One hour by car from New York City via I-95.
Good to know: The Drawing Room serves hand-blended teas and delicious scones with clotted cream. Their adjacent shop is the place to buy decorative pillows and scented candles. Stop off in Port Chester for a pizza margarita at Mario Batali's Tarry Lodge and freshly baked bread and cured meats from the market.

Head to Washington

If you’re in the mood for a classic, picturesque New England town. Dine by the open hearth fire at the Mayflower Inn, pick up hot cross buns and Irish soda bread from The Pantry, or take a picnic and hike the beautiful trails along the Shepaug River in Steep Rock Reserve.
Route to take: A two-hour jaunt from NYC.
Good to know: Averill Farm has been family-run since 1746. Go in the fall for apple picking, homemade pies, and old-fashioned farm fun.
Read more on Fathom: New England Classic: A Design Duo's Favorites in Washington Connecticut

MAINE

Photo courtesy of White Barn Inn.

Head to Acadia National Park

If you’re in the mood for coastal scenery at its finest. Bike the national park's 45 miles of carriage roads, hike the diverse terrain, and watch the sunrise from atop Cadillac Mountain. Stay at charming and kitsch-free West Street Hotel in Bar Harbor and get popovers fresh from the oven at Jordan Pond House before gorging yourself on lobster rolls and ice cream.
Route to take: Stop along the park’s 27-mile scenic route at Sand Beach, Thunder Hole, Jordan Pond, and Cadillac Mountain.
Good to know: For late night bites and weekly karaoke, head to Little A's Sports Bar.
Read more on Fathom: Finding Arcadia in Acadia

Head to Rockland

If you're in the mood for farm-fresh food without the Boston or New York price tag. Make a reservation at Primo and enjoy a creative menu that uses produce and animals raised on the property.
Route to take: Route 1 affords beautiful coastal scenery, complete with waves crashing into rocky cliffsides and charming lighthouses.
Good to know: The Farnsworth Art Museum is also located in Rockland, giving you a good dose of culture along with a fantastic meal.

Head Down the Coast of Maine

If you're in the mood for by-the-book prep, nature adventures, and rural farm areas.
Route to take: Skip around from Camden to Rockport to Kennebunkport to Norway.
Good to know: Stay at the Country Inn or The White Barn Inn; stock up on L.L. Bean; let Ducktrap Kayak handle your paddling details.
Read more on Fathom: Little Black Book for Coastal Maine

MARYLAND

Photo courtesy of Inn at Perry Cabin.

Head to the Chesapeake Coast

If you're in the mood for a nautical state of mind. Start by gazing at the sailboats from your bedroom window at Inn at Perry Cabin. Get dirty with buckets of peel-and-eat shrimp poured onto tables covered in brown paper by day; clean up for the five-course dinner menu from a Per Se alum at Bartlett Pear Inn.
Route to take: Route 301 is a pleasant alternative to the NJ Turnpike and I-95.
Good to know: The NYT has a list of finger-licking crab shacks that's worth a gander.

MASSACHUSETTS

Photo by Todd Beeby.

Head to the Berkshires

If you're in the mood for dance, theater, yoga, Shakespeare, and skinny dipping with mountain as the backdrop.
Route to take: Saw Mill from NYC; Mohawk Trail into North Adams from Boston.
Good to know: Jacob's Pillow, Mass MoCA, Kripalu, and Canyon Ranch are all here.
Read more on Fathom: Berkshires Hot List and Breathing Lessons in the Berkshires

Head to Nantucket

If you're in the mood for a new flavor profile on one the coast's most historic islands. Do Provisions for brunch, Ventuno for dinner, and Brotherhood of Thieves for a sunset beer. Shack up at White Elephant or Wauwinet.
Route to take: JetBlue flies to the island during summer months.
Good to know: Take the pooch. There's a lot of outdoor living, dog-friendly hotels, and off-leash beaches.

NEW YORK

Photo courtesy of The Arnold.

Head to Barryville

If you're in the mood for locavore eating, sustainable shopping, patronizing family businesses. Stay at Hillside Schoolhouse, a two-bedroom charmer nestled in the woods of Sullivan County. Head to Benji & Jake's for cold beers and wood-fired pizza on the upstairs deck overlooking Kauneonga Lake. Pick up locally sourced pantry items from modern general store River Market or the Barryville Farmers Market (on Saturdays during the summer). Rent an inner tube and take a ride along Skinner's Falls. Follow with a long and lazy dinner at The Heron.
Route to take: Route 97 through Barryville has crazy winding roads, scenic overlooks along the Delaware River, and habitats for birds of prey (once a dirt road referred to as the Hawk's Nest).
Good to know: Take a cue from owner Bronson Bigelow, who quit his corporate job to open the inn and make all the furniture in it. Or just shop his collection of upcycled antiques, vintage industrial objects, and restored ice boxes.

Head to Hudson

If you're in the mood for juxtaposing well-worn Victorian charm with big city comforts and a bit of edginess. Stay at Inn at Hudson, drink a perfectly pulled espresso at Swallow, check out the mini food truck emporium on Warren Street, have killer (local, sustainable, homemade) burger with the works at the retro-fitted '50s diner Grazin', and finish off with a nightcap and live show at Helsinki.
Route to take: Ride Amtrak right into town; zip up from NYC in a car on 87.
Good to know: Check the schedule for happenings at the cathedral-like Basilica Hudson, an old glue factory that's been turned into a performing arts space.
Read more on Fathom: The Best of City and Country Rolled Into One Little Weekend in Hudson, New York

Head to Ithaca

If you're in the mood for a healthy dose of counter-culturalism and hippie goodness. The Argos Inn, a LEED-certified 10-room inn meticulously renovated with heated stone slab floors, velvet drapes, and turn-of-the-century Bergere chairs. It's a ten-minute walk from your velvet-flocked suite to the iconic Moosewood restaurant, which turned all-natural cooking and '70s-era co-operative business ideals into a full-fledge vegetarian kitchen collective. Obviously, pick up a cookbook. Morning coffees can and should be had at the original Gimme! Coffee (now a Brooklyn mainstay). Besides swimming holes and architectural tours of nearby Cornell campus (I.M. Pei! Koolhaus! Richard Meier!), you're spitting distance from the Finger Lakes wine country.
Route to take: Make it scenic and curve up the Catskill Mountains. Make a sweet rest stop for a few scoops of ice cream made from Cornell's own dairy farm.
Read more on Fathom: This Is Where Locavore Was Born

Head to Livingston Manor

If you're in the mood for a monastic environment. Book a weekend at Dai Bosatsu Zendo, a Japanese Buddhist sanctuary where you can workshop the basics of being — like breathing and being quiet.
Route to take: The Palisades (from NYC) are soothing and scenic.
Good to know: No prior Zen practice necessary. And if you want your alone time with somebody, you can rent a small cottage on the premises.

Head to Montauk

If you're in the mood for an easy, breezy beach weekend. Ruschmeyer's has a retro camp vibe, but the best way to hang is by renting a little something you can call home.
Route to take: Drive very early in the morning or very late at night on 495 to Sunrise Highway to the very end of Montauk Highway (avoid traffic by using GPS to navigate back roads).
Good to know: BYOB seafood shack Duryea's Lobster Deck and Fishbar on the Lake are musts.
Read more on Fathom: Hamptons Guide and Montauk Master Plan

Head to the North Fork

If you're in the mood for large plots of farmland, farmstands, U-picks, and wineries. Book at slow-food hang North Fork Table and Inn.
Route to take: Tiny town centers dot the Main Road (Route 25) and Sound Avenue (Route 48).
Good to know: The Custer Observatory is open every Saturday from dusk to midnight for stargazing.
While in the area: see our North Fork hit list.

Head to Phoenicia

If you're in the mood for agritourism with a Dutch design bent. Try Stony Creek Farm in Walton, where fancy tents with wood-burning stoves are nestled on a working farm. Nightly harvests become dinner.
Route to take: Take 87 and stop in for a tour of Tuthilltown Spirits, the distillery where Hudson Baby Bourbon is made.
Good to know: The culinary cognoscenti of NYC get their prime cuts from Fleisher's Meats; you can pick up breakfast sausages at their full-service butcher shop.
Read more on Fathom: Catskills Hit List

Head to Shandelee

If you're in the mood for hiking, biking, foraging, and dozing off in the sun. The Arnold House, an adorably Instagrammable 10-room inn (Sferra linens, Pendelton blankets, cork floors), is the perfect setting for your country retreat. Being the proper hosts that they are, the Foster family proprietors offer plenty of fun activities (ice fishing in the winter, ramp foraging in the spring, ravioli making at nearby Northern Farmhouse Pasta).
Route to take: Wind through the Palisades and continue northwest from NYC.
Good to know: If you didn't bring your own pooch (the hotel provides dog beds, water bowls, housemade treats), spend some time cuddling with Adelaide, the English Bulldog.

Head to West Kill

If you're in the mood for the simple Catskill pleasures. Star at the Spruceton Inn, a Catskills "bed & bar" with mountain views. Get your pancakes stacked at Phoenicia Diner. Work off the carbs with a picturesque hike to Diamond Notch Falls, a serious hike up Overlook Mountain, or, come winter, some ski tubing on Plattekill Mountain. Dine on savory pies at Table on Ten. Ride Icelandic horses on quiet trails. Or, back at the inn, just play some bocce and make some snacks in your own kitchenette or on the grill.
Route to take: Hit the Palisades and roll through Woodstock. No wheels? Coordinate a pick-up with your guest house after catching the Trailways bus from Port Authority.
Good to know: Leave plenty of time to get home so that you can stop for antiques and farmstand souvenirs: raw milk and gouda from Byebrook Farm; old thingamabobs from Lyon Mountain Blue Barn Antiques; farmy furniture at Wood Bull antiques; honey and grass-fed meats from Stone & Thistle.
Read more on Fathom: Where to Go from NYC, the Catskills Checklist

Head to Lake Placid

If you’re in the mood for adult summer camp in the Adirondacks. Check out Wild Walk, the “High Line of the Forest,” a museum experience suspended in the treetops of Tupper Lake. Canoe or kayak down the Raquette River, and end the day with a good meal and a better cocktail at Liquids and Solids.
Route to take: Hit the Taconic Parkway from New York City.
Good to know: Stay at Whiteface Lodge for a well-appointed resort experience, or camp near Lake Placid, Saranac Lake, or Tupper Lake for a real back-to-nature experience.
Read more on Fathom: A Walk in the Woods Above NY’s Adirondacks

RHODE ISLAND

Photo courtesy of The Ocean House.

Head to Watch Hill/Weekapaug

If you're in the mood for a gorgeous beach escape with excellent cuisine to match. The recently revamped Weekapaug Inn where sail boats, fishing gear, and a discreet, black-bottomed pool are all at your disposal. A meal of locally caught lobster, Matunuck oysters, and native beets is as memorable as the sunsets overlooking bucolic Quonochontaug Pond.
Route to take: Head south on the I-95. On the way back to civilization, stock up on freshly baked chocolate chunk and molasses cookies at gourmet emporium The Cooked Goose.
Good to know: Killer Swedish massages at Relais & Chateaux sister property The Ocean House are a Zen bonus.
Read more on Fathom: Summer with the Kids in Watch Hill

VERMONT

Photo courtesy of Woodstock Inn.

Head to Woodstock

If you're in the mood for quintessential Americana combined with a new, LEED-certified spa. Book the grand Woodstock Inn in New England's most picture-postcard-perfect town. They have a serene spa and delicious farm-to-table cuisine in its casual Red Rooster restaurant. Head across the quaint village green outside your front door and make stops at the old-school Gillingham's general store and Yankee Bookshop before a lovely dinner-a-deux at The Prince and The Pauper, a town institution.
Route to take: The Taconic Parkway from NYC. It might be a slightly longer route, but the scenery — and a stop at the old-school Millbrook Diner (3266 Franklin Ave.; +1-845-677-5319) — makes it worth it.
Good to know: Do not skip town without a stop for black raspberry ice cream cones at the White Cottage Snack Bar. Open only in summer, this low-key spot is worth a serious, deep-fried detour.

Head to Burlington

If you’re in the mood for getting back in touch with nature and ending the day with a fantastic craft beer. Stay at eco-friendly Hotel Vermont and dine next door at Chef Eric Warnstedt’s revered restaurant Hen of the Wood. Do some boutique shopping on Church Street, or head down the hill to Lake Champlain for lakeside activites in the summer and winter.
Route to take: On your way into the city, stop at Shelburne Farms, a nonprofit farm focused on sustainability education, for tours of their historic barns, tons of scenic walking trails, and classic Vermont foodstuffs from the farm store.
Good to know: August First Bakery may not allow laptops, but they have the best bread downtown.
Read more on Fathom: It’s All Small Town Good Vibes in Burlington, Vermont

MORE FATHOM-APPROVED GETAWAYS

Have you seen our list of the Most Romantic Hotels in The Northeast?

Special thanks to contributors Devorah Klein Lev-Tov, Christina Ohly, and Ilaria Urbinati.

A Kid-Centric Weekend in the Windy City

Balancing kid-friendly fancies with mature tastes is the key to any tantrum-free family getaway. Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly tackled the task with her daughter during a weekend in Chicago. Here's what she did.

CHICAGO – It had easily been ten years since my last non-work trip to Chicago, and with a short weekend window presenting itself, my eleven-year-old daughter Kate and I decided to head to the Windy City for hefty doses of architecture, culture, relaxation, great food, and visits with friends. The manageable city on the shores of Lake Michigan didn't disappoint, and we came away feeling relaxed, rejuvenated, and extremely well fed.

DAY ONE: THE LOOP, THE MAGNIFICENT MILE, AND MORE

With less than 36 hours, we hit the ground running and went straight for Millennium Park for the famed Anish Kapoor sculpture Cloud Gate, which locals refer to as "The Bean." The beautiful, mirrored droplet inspired by liquid mercury is wonderful for all ages and reflects the surrounding skyline and architecture to dazzling effect. A twelve-foot high arch beneath the piece makes for fun explorating. We could easily have spent half the day exploring Millennium Park's Crown Fountain, Lurie Garden, and the Frank Gehry-designed BP Bridge.

But we were off to Art Institute of Chicago to marvel at the permanent collections. We stopped for lunch in the Renzo Piano-designed wing at Terzo Piano — a minimalist, pure white space with a menu of mezzes, flatbreads, and creative salads. Perfect museum fare. Well fed, we went back down Michigan Avenue, stopping at various Walgreen's along the way. Yes, really. The concept of the "drugstore" takes on a whole new meaning in Chicago, and at select branches (like the one in the iconic Wrigley Building), we found fresh sushi (complete with on-site chef!), pricey liquor, and treasures that made for one-stop shopping in a gilt-trimmed setting.

Smiles for the cupcake experience.

The restaurant, and its portions, are massive. Photo courtesy of Hugo's Frog Bar.

After we took the obligatory photos on the Chicago River bridge, we pushed on to the shopping area that typifies the area they call "Gold Coast" for good reason. Magnificent Mile is packed with big-ticket designer boutiques (Prada, Gucci, Hermes), and the adjoining streets have more accessible spots like Sprinkles Cupcakes on East Walton Street. For the uninitiated, this is a confectionary concept that features a cupcake ATM that is restocked 24 hours a day with a variety of insanely sweet treats for people. And dogs, too. This was, by far, the highlight of Chicago, as far as Kate was concerned.

Refueled once again, we scouted other restaurants like Jellyfish (inventive sushi in a glass atrium), Carmine's (enormous portions of Italian red-sauce classics), and Hugo's Frog Bar (terrible name; excellent seafood). Hugo's is a fun, nautically themed concept for parents and kids alike. They serve huge plates of shrimp cocktail, planked Lake Superior whitefish, and beautiful charbroiled burgers. Think BIG!

After a lot of walking, eating, and drinking (we found coffee and tea shops on virtually every corner, which was a nice way to combat Chicago's notorious chill), we went back to The Peninsula Hotel to relax in the spa. I'm not usually one for massages and treatments, but I'd heard wonderful things about their Bamboo Harmonizer massage and decided to give it a whirl. The treatment is designed to suck away negative energy and stimulate the flow of positive qi energy. (Yes, please!) It was the most thoroughly relaxing 90 minutes I've ever experienced. Maybe it was the combination of warm bamboo rods being rolled all over my tired legs and feet or the gentle clacking sound of the wood, but I fell asleep hard and awoke completely reinvigorated. Do carve out time for this one.

After prying ourselves from the hotel, we went to Bistronomic, a bustling bistro just around the corner, for dinner. Our was a multi-generational group, and everyone found something on the menu. Ddelicious terrines of tuna tartare, garlicky escargot, and crispy duck confit — all French classics infused with modern flair. A huge Baked Alaska (keeping it old-school) made for the perfect ending to a memorable meal and a packed day.

Obscenely gooey delicious. Photo courtesy of Bistronomic.

DAY TWO: PANCAKES, DAVID BOWIE, AND A KICK-ASS AQUARIUM

Another winner in the big food category is Pancake House, a downtown breakfast staple that serves excellent omelets in a traditional, diner ambience. From here, we went to Museum of Contemporary Art to see the exhibit "David Bowie Is." While this may not be the most kid-friendly content (what with all the coke spoons, sex, and colorful language), the highly interactive show features music, film footage, and outlandish costumes, including Ziggy Stardust bodysuits and Alexander McQueen coats. This was the show's only North American stop, and it was so worth a detour. (Lady Gaga wouldn't be Gaga without the influence of Bowie.) MCA's well-stocked gift shop sells everything from Union Jack throws and pillows to Andromeda iPhone covers to "Let's Dance" earrings.

A psychedelic sea creature dance party. Photo by Cwillbounds / Flickr.

After circling back to the hotel to pick up our complimentary Mini Cooper (this can be arranged in advance and was second only to Sprinkles Cupcakes in my daughter's "cool" view), we headed to Shedd Aquarium on the other side of town. As it's one of the largest aquariums in the world, you'll want to plan your visit in advance. I highly recommend the technicolor "Jellies" exhibit (on view until January 2015) because those amorphous creatures are pretty entrancing.

In the name of research, we stopped by Foodlife in Water Tower Place, a place that takes the food court concept to an entirely new level. Foodlife is a collection of casual dining concepts within one main, bustling space. Separate kitchens turn out excellent, fresh food that ranges from sushi and inventive salads to signature Chicago deep-dish pizza. Dedicated dessert areas serving custom-made crepes were the culinary highlight for the younger members of our entourage. And if I'm being honest, this is my favorite way to eat too — a bit of this, a bit of that.

Step inside a captured German U-boat. Photo by Abadonmi01 / Flickr.

If time or weather had allowed, I would have taken a Chicago Architecture Foundation River Cruise because it's the best way to learn about the city's rich architectural history. My next trip will also include a stop at Museum of Science and Industry to see its U-505 German submarine from World War II, Omnimax Theatre, and mirror mazes.

Our last stop, Gibson's Bar & Steakhouse, didn't disappoint for early dinner. This is exactly the kind of food and atmosphere I expect from Chicago: enormous steaks, wedge salads loaded with bacon and blue cheese, and Bookbinder's soup in a warm, wood-paneled setting. The completely unpretentious meal was the perfect end to our whirlwind weekend. We made our way to the airport feeling sated in every way.

The chocolate bar and the Shanghai Terrace. Photos courtesy of Peninsula Hotel.

WHERE TO STAY

The Peninsula in the heart of downtown Chicago tops my list. This particular outpost just gets kids/tweens/teens. We were greeted at 9 p.m. by a dessert bar in the main dining room that was Willy Wonka-esque in every way. Vats of candies, make-your-own sundae bars, a waffle station, and chocolate bon-bons all made for the perfect, warm Midwest welcome.

Our spacious room was no less impressive, with its Fili D'oro linens, endless amenities (stuffed animals, Oscar de La Renta creams, fresh fruit platters), and sweeping views of Water Tower Park and the lake in the distance. Highlights included a sprawling swimming pool — complete with glorious, twenty-foot windows and plush robes — a Zen spa, and Shanghai Terrace, the hotel's dim sum hotspot that's long on shrimp dumplings and has a red lacquer vibe. Add in a small skating rink that's open during the winter months, and this spot is pretty much kid nirvana.

Just down the street you'll find the relatively new Thompson Hotel, a Tara Bernerd-designed gem that features lots of warm wood, modernist light fixtures, and living walls at every turn. In-house restaurant Nico Osteria is worth a stop for lunch or dinner and serves some of the best crudo and housemade taglioni — not to mention biscotti and maple gelati — that I've tasted anywhere (Italy included).

Also worth mentioning: Park Hyatt, Ritz Carlton Chicago (now managed by Four Seasons), and a new Waldorf Astoria that offers spacious rooms and suites, many of which are specifically designed to accommodate families. All of these hotels are perfectly positioned for exploring the stylish Gold Coast area, nearby Michigan Avenue, and the many great restaurants located within a five-block radius.

HOW TO GET THERE

The numerous flight options in and out of Chicago O'Hare International Airport (ORD) make traveling with kids and changing plans at a moment's notice (my forte) easy and manageable. While Chicago is a United Airlines hub, I recommend American Airlines for Terminal 3's food offerings alone. Celebrated chef Rick Bayless' Tortas Frontera — an incredible restaurant specializing in warm, open-faced sandwiches of smoked bacon and tres queso — makes a long layover almost worth it.

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE

Chicago, One Neighborhood at a Time
Chicago: How to Eat Like a Local
Two Bars, One Big Appetite

South Africa's Luxe and Low-Key Tswalu Redefines the Safari

Subtly luxurious lodgings and top-knotch guides come together to perfectly redefine "safari." Contributing editor Christina Ohly has her ultimate bespoke safari experience.

KALAHARI DESERT, South Africa – From the moment I arrived at the Johannesburg airport for the flight to Tswalu, a truly unique game reserve located in the southern part of the Kalahari Desert, I knew this one was going to be different. My family and I boarded their luxurious Pilatus plane for the one-and-a-half hour hop to Tswalu's dedicated airstrip, warmly welcomed and escorted to a thatched roof terminal, and were greeted with thousands of chirping sociable weaver birds. The eco-adventure had begun!

What sets Tswalu apart is not so much its red sand dunes and sprawling grasslands — though those certainly make for spectacular viewing — but the completely relaxed pace and tasteful motse (the local Tswana word for "village") that create a safari unlike any other I've experienced. After checking into one of the eight spacious legae — "little houses" — you'll have to pry yourself from your sun terrace in order to take in the game which you've theoretically come to see. No detail has been overlooked, and while the suites are utterly simple (think minimalist contemporary furnishings mixed with traditional African baskets and art) the details — outdoor showers and big, open fireplaces — make them special.

The Motse deck.

Tswalu offers a bespoke safari experience. Gone are the 5 a.m. wake-up calls (unless you want them), endless off-schedule meals, and the quest for the Big Five. Tswalu — a thousand-square-kilometer reserve that is a labor of love for the Oppenheimer family — is all about conservation and land use, as well as the pursuit of animals that are not easily found elsewhere. Enormous black-maned Kalahari lions dazzle. So do families of frolicking meerkats, elegant giraffes strolling across open plains, and the elusive aardvark. It is also a birder's paradise, with over two hundred rare species readily on view. There is no sense of imminent danger here and that makes Tswalu what I refer to as "safari lite": you will constantly see, do, and learn, but without the threat of being some animal's next meal.

A horseback safari.

The guides and trackers are top-notch ecologists who lead safaris in a Land Rover, on horseback, or even on foot so that you can get up close to nature. Tracking takes on new meaning here. Our guide was happy to alight from the vehicle, rifle in hand, and bushwhack until he found prides of lions and desert black rhinos languishing in the mid-day sun. Other highlights included sleeping under the stars, eating a delicious lunch by the motse pool, and receiving authentic spa treatments that incorporate indigenous red dune sand, desert minerals, and botanical fibres. Add to this the absence of malaria and a warm community comprised of 142 staff members (plus a peek into their eco-friendly housing, preschool, dedicated health clinic, and adult literacy programmes) and you get a real sense of how Tswalu is transforming this massive area, in terms of both environmental conservation and education.

With only twenty guests at a time, Tswalu feels more like an intimate, low-key house party than a Relais & Chateaux nestled at the foot of the Korannaberg Mountains. Its stated mission is "to restore the Kalahari to itself"; and I left this magical place feeling as though I'd been restored to myself as well.

Photo by Christina Ohly.

FIND IT

Tswalu Kalahari
+27-0-53-781-9331
res@tswalu.com

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE

Losing My Virginity on Safari
Uganda on Safari: The Pearl of Africa
Debrief: Bruce Bromberg in South Africa