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Giambattista Valli talks personal taste: Part One

Giambattista Valli is best known for glamorous gowns that combine intricate embroidery and sharp, modern tailoring

Giambattista Valli is best known for glamorous gowns that combine intricate embroidery and sharp, modern tailoring

My personal style signifier is wearing black from head to toe – my uniform consists of black trousers by APC or Saint Laurent, an American Apparel T-shirt or Commes des Garçons dress shirt and a cashmere sweater – and either my strand of pearls that are a good-luck charm, or a necklace with a Georgian cross that was a gift from my friend Lee Radziwill. American Apparel, www.americanapparel.net. APC, www.apc.fr. Commes des Garçons, www.comme-des-garcons.com. Saint Laurent, www.ysl.com.

The last thing I bought and loved was a hand-held portable LG projector for screening movies on the go. I work non‑stop and watching films is my one escapist pleasure. LG PB60G projector, from about £350; www.lg.com.


Penhaligon’s Blenheim Bouquet eau de toilette, £85 for 100ml

Penhaligon’s Blenheim Bouquet eau de toilette, £85 for 100ml


And the thing I’m eyeing next is a holiday. I’d like to go back to the Aman hotel in Venice, which is in an exquisitely restored palazzo overlooking the Grand Canal. The rooms are beautiful and the gardens an oasis of calm, but it’s the warm welcome and service that make this place so special and restorative. Palazzo Papadopoli, Calle Tiepolo 1364, 30125 Venice (+39041-270 7333; www.amanresorts.com).

The last music I downloaded was the soundtrack to the Wim Wenders film Pina, but I am open to all kinds of music. I tend to favour funk to wake me up or when I exercise, although I also love classical music. I enjoy listening to whatever moves my soul – or my body – at a particular moment in time.

The last meal that truly impressed me was at Da Adolfo in Positano. It is essentially a little cave on the beach, and I ate the most delicious mozzarella on lemon leaves and linguine with tomatoes and local lobster. The atmosphere in summer is magical and I can still taste the spectacular food. Via Laurito 40, 84017 Positano (+39089-875 022; www.daadolfo.com).

The books on my bedside table are actually in a stack next to my bed, because I like a very austere room without much furniture. Books are my biggest pleasure and I always have at least three on the go. Currently that’s A Cloudy Day in Babylon by Margaret Doody, The Red Book by CG Jung and The Old Garden by South Korean novelist Hwang Sok-Yong.


His hand‑held LG projector, from about £350 | Image: Lea Crespi

His hand‑held LG projector, from about £350 | Image: Lea Crespi


In my fridge you’ll always find Chateldon mineral water and Shu Uemura Depsea Hydrability masks. I never cook or eat at home, but I like to have these cooling, soothing fabric masks on hand – they work wonders after a late night. Chateldon, www.chateldon.tm.fr. Shu Uemura, £42 for six; www.shuuemura.co.uk.

The best gift I’ve given recently was a trip for four close friends to the Trianon Palace in Versailles, a lovely, secluded hotel. We went for walks around a scenic lake, enjoyed delicious dinners that lasted for hours and slept very well. Boulevard de la Reine 1, 78000 Versailles (+331-3084 5000; www.trianonpalace.com).

Valli’s good-luck pearls | Image: Lea Crespi

Valli’s good-luck pearls | Image: Lea Crespi


And the best one I’ve received recently was a pearl and ruby necklace from a friend who is like a sister to me. She bought it at auction, and it’s the kind of big jewellery I think suits me best. It was a total surprise, which makes it even more special.

The beauty staple I’m never without is my Blenheim Bouquet eau de toilette from Penhaligon’s, which I have worn every day and night for the past 20-plus years. It smells fresh and healthy and puts me in a good mood. £85 for 100ml; www.penhaligons.com.


Al Tarfa Desert Sanctuary Lodge & Spa, Egypt

Al Tarfa Desert Sanctuary Lodge & Spa, Egypt


The site that inspires me is Al Tarfa Lodge in the middle of the Egyptian desert. This sanctuary in the southwestern part of the country is the perfect place to clear the mind. Al Mansura, Dakhla Oasis, New Valley (+2010-0100 1109; www.altarfa.net).

My favourite websites are CNN and AstrologyZone for Susan Miller’s horoscopes, but I tend to use apps more than the web. WeChat is one of my favourites for connecting with friends in Asia and CrossProcess is a fun one that lets you apply colours and filters to photographs. www.astrologyzone.comwww.cnn.com. CrossProcess, www.apple.com/ituneswww.wechat.com.

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Giambattista Valli talks personal taste: Part Two

The designer concludes his list of likes with antique kimono fabrics in Tokyo and singing monks in Laos

The designer concludes his list of likes with antique kimono fabrics in Tokyo and singing monks in Laos

Giambattista Valli in his Paris studio | Image: Lea Crespi

Giambattista Valli in his Paris studio | Image: Lea Crespi

My style icon isPablo Picasso, because he was always so full of life and creativity. No one ever thought of him as old; even in a striped T-shirt on the beach he looked like an emperor. And also Maharajah Yeshwant Rao Holkar II, an early-20th-century figure who wore simply tailored white shirts with very bold diamond necklaces. I love big jewellery on men and whenever I wear a tuxedo I pair it with a necklace inspired by this elegant man.

An object I would never part with is my black Cutler and Gross sunglasses. I wear them every morning – even when the skies are grey. £310; www.cutlerandgross.com.

Pablo Picasso | Image: Gjon Mili/Time Life Pictures/Getty Images

Pablo Picasso | Image: Gjon Mili/Time Life Pictures/Getty Images



An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Luang Prabang in Laos. I rented a villa with a group of friends in an incredible private sanctuary on the Mekong Estate. We watched the elephants drinking from the river at dawn and I think it might be the most sublime, peaceful place I have ever been. www.mekongestate.com.

And the best souvenir I’ve brought home is the memory of the singing monks in Luang Prabang. They collect alms each morning at dawn and their soothing voices are a constant reminder of that special trip.

An indulgence I would never forego is buying books. I keep them all, and my apartment in Paris looks like a library.

The last things I added to my wardrobe were some Nike trainers. I bought two pairs – one red and one royal blue – at the cool multibrand store Excelsior in Milan. £140; www.nike.com. Excelsior, Galleria del Corso 4, 20100 Milan (+3902-7630 7301; www.excelsiormilano.com).

Valli’s Cutler and Gross sunglasses, £310 | Image: Lea Crespi

Valli’s Cutler and Gross sunglasses, £310 | Image: Lea Crespi


If I didn’t live in Paris, the city I would live in is Istanbul, which to me is the most exciting place in the world. I love its combination of European and Asian cultures and find the views of the Bosphorus, the delicious food, the Turkish baths, the dancing, the Grand Bazaar, the rich coffee – everything – inspiring. I would never tire of living there. The Four Seasons Hotel at Sultanahmet, in the heart of the old city, would be a lovely place to call home and I particularly adore Kizkulesi, an amazing restaurant in a small tower in the middle of the strait off the Asiatic shore. The Four Seasons Hotel, Tevkifhane Sokak 1, 34110 Sultanahmet-Eminönü (+90212-402 3000; www.fourseasons.com). Kizkulesi, Üsküdar Salacak Mevkii, 34668 Üsküdar (+90216-342 4747; www.kizkulesi.com.tr).

The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is the Cuban-born Félix González-Torres, whose footprints-in-sand photographs I love. But I couldn’t just collect the work of one artist; I like diversity and would want a wide range of pieces by Andy Warhol, Francis Bacon, Mario Schifano and some ceramics by Lucio Fontana.

The Comme des Garçons store in Aoyama, Tokyo

The Comme des Garçons store in Aoyama, Tokyo


Among the people I rely on for personal grooming and wellbeing is David Mallet for haircuts in his beautiful salon that feels more like an apartment. He is a former fashion-show stylist who I’ve known for years, so he knows exactly what I like. Deepu Yogi, who comes to my home for pranamaya yoga sessions, helps to keep me in balance, and the facials at Biologique Recherche are wonderfully hydrating and relaxing. Biologique Recherche, Avenue des Champs-Elysées 32, 75008 Paris (+331-4118 9684; www.biologique-recherche.com). David Mallet, Rue Notre Dame des Victoires 14, 75002 Paris (+331-4020 0023; www.david-mallett.com). Deepu Yogi, +336-7937 0540.

My favourite room in my house is the master bathroom, because it has beautiful light and views of the garden. It’s a peaceful space with a fireplace, English fixtures, pale-blue Farrow & Ball walls and lots of neutral-coloured stone.

The Four Seasons Hotel, Sultanahmet, Istanbul | Image: Paul Thuysbaert

The Four Seasons Hotel, Sultanahmet, Istanbul | Image: Paul Thuysbaert



If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose Aoyama in Tokyo, because it is so eclectic and full of energy. The Comme des Garçons store is amazing, not just because of the clothes but because the shop assistants are all so brilliant and entertaining. I also enjoy wandering through Isetan, a unique department store with an incredible food hall; shopping for antique kimono fabrics – not at any shop in particular; and picking up housewares and knick-knackery at Tokyu Hands in Shibuya. Comme des Garçons, 5-2-1 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-Ku 107-0062 (+813-3406 3951; www.comme-des-garcons.com). Isetan, 3-14-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-Ku 160-0022 (+813-3225 2514; www.isetan.co.jp). Tokyu Hands, 12-18 Udagawacho, Shibuya 150-0042 (+813-5489 5111; www.tokyu-hands.co.jp).

If I weren’t doing what I do,I would be a psychologist. I feel I play this role every day anyway, so I think I’d be a natural. People fascinate me.



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JAR dazzles at The Met

The museum shop sparkles during a glittering blockbuster

The museum shop sparkles during a glittering blockbuster

It takes quite a bit to excite jaded New Yorkers, but lovers of fine jewellery and fashion are in a state of high anticipation about the Jewels by JAR exhibition opening at The Metropolitan Museum of Art on Wednesday November 20. In addition to the wide selection of the ever-elusive master craftsman’s exquisite creations on display, he has also produced a collection of earrings and watches that will be available to buy for the duration of the show.

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Joel Arthur Rosenthal – aka JAR – is rarely in the public eye, despite being hailed as one of the most important jewellers today. Indeed, he is the first contemporary gem artist to have a solo retrospective at The Met. It comes as no surprise that the show is shrouded in mystery, with only a few images being released before the previews. What the exhibition does promise, however, is a profusion of vibrant gemstones, pearls and cameos – all set in an unusual array of metals, including platinum, green gold and titanium – from an exquisite pair of Lilac brooches comprised of diamonds, sapphires, garnets, aluminium, silver and gold to one of the exuberant, fire-opal-  and amethyst-encrusted Butterfly brooches.

JAR is revered for his use of coloured rare and precious gems, such as the Cameo and Rose Petal brooch (first picture) or his Multicoloured Handkerchief earrings (second picture), but this exhibition also makes clear his love for semiprecious stones and materials such as ivory, coral, rock crystal and jasper, which are often overlooked in haute joaillerie.


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Of the pieces for sale, eight earring styles range in price from $2,000 to $7,500, including the striking Tickle Me Feather in 18ct gold plate ($7,500, third picture) and the sculptural Carnaval à Venise ($2,000, fourth picture), while two watch styles will retail for $600 each, thereby putting the jewels of JAR within more of his adoring fans’ reach.


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A gemological blockbuster in the making.




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Stockholm chic

An iconic rattan tote with a colourful new spirit

An iconic rattan tote with a colourful new spirit

In my never-ending quest for a handbag sans chains, buckles or brand names, I recently came across a chicly simple Swedish number that will carry me (or rather that I will carry) throughout the summer. The classic rattan tote by Stockholm-based Palmgrens (about £264) may have traditionally been associated with a more conservative clientele, but the label’s recent versions with brighter trims – in turquoise, bright orange and fuchsia – have made it something of an alternative “it” bag among the style savvy.

I have always been a fan of natural materials and hand-sewn finishes – especially in sturdy leather and woven rattan – and this 1950s design features some incredible attention to detail and fine workmanship. Palmgrens’ basket bag is by no means cavernously capacious, but being bijou and lightweight, it rather demands thoughtful packing, restraint and a bit of careful planning. I particularly like the zippered leather pouch in a matching hue tethered to the bag’s interior, which is handy for keys, cash and cards.

Mine is in a neutral beige shade, but I would love to own totes in the full kaleidoscopic spectrum, from brilliant yellow through to sea green. I love the bag’s basic square shape and whenever I have used it outside of Sweden (where it is iconic), it has garnered myriad compliments for its simplicity and originality. It isn’t widely available – in fact, Palmgrens is the sole distributor – which, in my mind, adds to its appeal.

Streamlined and tasteful, these statement bags have inspired noted Swedish furniture designers Mathieu Gustafsson and Niklas Karlsson to create an entire line of cabinets based on their design, which launched at this year’s Stockholm Furniture Fair.

For me, this rattan bag is bling-free bliss and evokes something of the spirit of a sunny holiday in Capri – which couldn’t be further from the reality of my day-to-day New York existence. Heaven.

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Gothic wonderland

Fantastical creations by a Florentine jeweller in a magical setting

Fantastical creations by a Florentine jeweller in a magical setting

Any visitor to Florence is likely to make a beeline for the Uffizi, the Duomo or the Boboli Gardens for a hit of Renaissance beauty. But add to this list of cultural highlights the 15th-century atelier of jeweller Alessandro Dari, a self-taught goldsmith-cum-classical guitarist who creates fantastical “wearable sculpture” from precious metals and unusual gemstones.

Image: Tommaso Fontanella

Image: Tommaso Fontanella


All of Dari’s thematic collections – Venezia, Music, Space & Time, Alchemy & Magic, Sin, Metamorphoses, Angels and Moon Time, to name a few – are presented in his magical San Niccolò shop in ethereal glass boxes that draw out the architectural and spiritual nature of his work.

I happened upon the space – part showroom, part workshop – while walking down a quiet back street and instantly felt as though I’d taken a step back in time. Dari’s guitar music was wafting from the high-ceilinged room into the street, as was the tinkling chatter of his apprentices – busily crafting pieces using traditional techniques and materials. With selections from 15 collections on display (prices from €3,000 to €12,000), including those from his latest Garden of Life series, the hundreds of pieces of jewellery, artefacts and pedestals spread throughout the gallery were a feast for the senses.


Image: Tommaso Fontanella

Image: Tommaso Fontanella


This ended up as a museum visit for me rather than a buying trip, but I highly recommend seeing the intricacies – and eccentricities – of Maestro Dari’s work. All his pieces are one of a kind and are crafted using combinations of 18ct gold and sterling silver, with diamonds, rubies, sapphires, pearls and tourmalines creating figures, cupolas and entire cities in miniature.

Rings are a particular Dari strength and many appear fit for a medieval king or sorcerer. A chunky Pia Tolomei design (first picture, price on request) includes citrines and diamonds in an architectural setting, while the Istanbul ring (third picture, price on request) features an impossibly small, detailed mosque and minarets. Rings from The Garden of Life series (example in second picture, price on request) are perhaps the most dramatic as they incorporate big stones with themes of childhood, purity and rebirth that pay homage to Florence’s Foundling Hospital (Ospedale degli Innocenti).

Gothic pendants, chunky bracelets, such as the magnificent Moon Compass, as well as stand-alone objets d’art are showcased throughout the space and visitors – many of whom come simply to admire Dari’s skill and imagination – are encouraged to explore and learn about the work that goes into each piece. Located just over the Ponte Vecchio, Alessandro Dari’s Oltrarno atelier offers a fairytale profusion of gemstones and stories – and it is a wonderland that I will not soon forget.

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Sculptural statement jewellery with edgy verve

A Brooklyn designer plays to the tastes of directional style mavens

A Brooklyn designer plays to the tastes of directional style mavens

Drawing upon a diverse mélange of artistic references, Brooklyn jeweller James Colarusso’s style veers from sensual Brancusi curves to the more angular geometric shapes seen in the work of artists such as Donald Judd. He also plays with history and has a certain gothic wit; his pieces often transform traditional elements – think cameos, memento-mori jewellery and sentimental heirlooms and tokens – into thoroughly modern creations. A signet ring with a skull insignia, for example.

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If you’re looking to copy a specific piece of your own, or want a big diamond in a classic setting, then Colarusso is not your man. He views stones for their own sake as “garish”.  If, however, you are interested in a collaborative bespoke creative process, the outcome of which is an edgily unique pair of earrings, a statement-making necklace or a one-off ring, you’re in the right place.

Colarusso works with each client to explore their personal take on his ideas and designs, incorporating a selection of stones sourced from wide-ranging locales: the American southwest as far as Thailand. Bold rings are a particular Colarusso strength – The Claw ($4,500) features golden “talons” holding exquisite stones in perfect place (first picture with amethyst), while precious diamonds are incorporated in subtle, unexpected ways. Coloured gems, such as the spectacular, sea-green Peruvian opals, are set in 14-carat gold (second picture, $3,500) designed to amplify their intense power.


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Necklaces can be created to order, inspired by specific stones or playing with existing designs – Colarusso is a fan of charms and his directional-meets-historical puzzle-ball pendants (from $615) work well for day wear. More formal pieces, such as a heart-shaped citrine (third picture) or a customised smoky quartz pendant ($3,800), are perfect for special occasions. When it comes to earrings, he loves to design for a specific woman’s face so that the style and length perfectly suit the shape.

Colarusso’s clientele tend to be strong women in creative fields such as publishing, film and fashion. Most buy pieces for themselves and tend to collect his work, and they don’t mind the eight-week wait. In fact, if anything, the delay makes the final delivery all the more delightful.

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Alexander Wang talks personal taste

The fashion designer on YSL chukkas, Hawaii and Tupac Shakur

The fashion designer on YSL chukkas, Hawaii and Tupac Shakur

My personal style signifiers are my own-brand black jeans with a black leather pocket, my collection of sweatshirts and black Samba sneakers. I wear these three things almost every day – to work, to dinner, to the beach. Samba sneakers from £41; www.adidas.co.uk. Jeans, £189, sweatshirts from £84; www.alexanderwang.com.

The last thing I bought and loved was a custom-made waterfall table covered in dove grey stingray. My friend and interior designer, Ryan Korban, created it for our showroom and it matches perfectly with the steel grey space as well as with the white marble floors. ryankorban.com.

Makapuu beach, Oahu | Image: Getty Images/Flickr RF

Makapuu beach, Oahu | Image: Getty Images/Flickr RF


A recent “find” is The Nomad Hotel in the Flatiron District in New York City. I love the traditional and modern mix. I recently realised that it was where we shot our Fall 2011 campaign with Craig McDean two years ago, when it was just a construction site. 1170 Broadway, New York 10001 (+1212-796 1500; www.thenomadhotel.com), from $395 per night.

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Oahu. Even more than the place are the memories of my birthday spent with friends. Ten of the people closest to me celebrated New Year’s, sailed and relaxed for a week. We rented a house on the beach; it was wonderful. +1808-878 8559; hawaiihideaways.com.

The last item I added to my wardrobe was a pair of YSL stingray chukkas. There were only something like 10 pairs made, and I special ordered mine. These are basically my version of a dress shoe, but they are on a sneaker base. Since they are made of stingray they don’t give too much, but they are about as comfortable as a dress shoe can get. www.ysl.com.

The people I rely on for personal grooming and style are the Leather Spa for fixing shoes and bags made of suede or leather. I also depend on Joey at Blackstones in the East Village for hair maintenance, and the Shibui Spa at The Greenwich Hotel for the most relaxing massages in the city. Blackstones, 19 East 7th Street, New York 10003 (+1212-353 2680; blackstonesnyc.net); The Greenwich Hotel, 377 Greenwich Street, New York 10013 (+1212-941 8900; www.thegreenwichhotel.com). Leather Spa, 10 West 55th Street, New York 10019 (+1212-262 4823; www.leatherspa.com).

The last meal that truly impressed me was at EN Japanese Brasserie in the West Village. I love the blue crab miso soup, the organic chicken cooked over a hot stone and the tofu and mizuna salad. I’m campaigning for it to bring back its natto soybean dish, as it was the only one like it in the city. Apparently people “didn’t get it”, but I thought it was great. 435 Hudson Street, New York 10014 (+1212?647 9196; enjb.com).

The books on my bedside table aren’t actually books. I read everything on my laptop; generally this includes The New York TimesNew York magazine and Women’s Wear Daily.  

EN Japanese Brasserie, New York

EN Japanese Brasserie, New York

The last music I downloaded was by Tupac Shakur. I got all of the tracks I didn’t already own, including 2 of Americaz Most WantedHit ’Em Up and California Love. I was so inspired by his hologram at Coachella that I had to fill in my playlists; it really reminded me what an amazing talent he was. www.itunes.com.

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would… I’m not sure. One of my strengths is that I have always known what I wanted to do, and not been deterred.

The grooming staples I’m never without are RéVive skincare products. I use the day cream, Sensitif Cellular Repair Cream, Moisturising Renewal Cream for night, as well as the Tonique Préparatif toner, because they are all light and unscented. And bottom line – they work. Moisturising Renewal Cream, £105; Sensitif Cellular Repair Cream, £125; Tonique Préparatif, £36. www.panachecosmetics.com. www.reviveskincare.com.

My favourite websites are 1st Dibs for looking at vintage furniture, and MenuPages so I can see which restaurants will deliver to me both at work and at home. www.1stdibs.comwww.menupages.com.

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Jewellery made for gorgeous layering

Original designs inspired by travel, nature and the light of Los Angeles

Original designs inspired by travel, nature and the light of Los Angeles

It all started with a misguided walk down Abbot Kinney Boulevard in Venice Beach, the trendy Los Angeles neighborhood that’s home to artisans, wonderful restaurants, vintage shops, and primo examples of California-Cape Cod and mid-century architecture. I was looking for Gjelina, an of-the-moment Mediterranean restaurant, and instead happened upon an exquisite jewellery shop by the name of LFrank. Two stacking rings (from $450, first picture) later – and no squash blossom and thyme pizza ever found – and I’m a huge fan of artist Liseanne Frankfurt’s utterly unique, sculptural creations – all of which are inspired by her far-flung travels, as well as the art, fashion, and natural light that surrounds her.

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LFrank designs were, for me, a whole new world of organic, understated adornments: rings, earrings, necklaces and bracelets that are handcrafted using 18ct gold, moghul-cut diamonds in white, black and cognac hues, as well as pieces that incorporate a profusion of sapphires, tourmalines and moonstones. Each is one-of-a-kind, and many include subtle irregularities, which makes them even more special.

The simple stacking rings – in white, yellow, or rose gold – were what originally caught my eye, but upon further exploration, I’ve fallen in love with LFrank’s bolder collections. From a Diamond Pavé Greek Ring ($5,500) in white gold to a colourful Casbah Ring ($8,300) made of turquoise cabochons ($8,300), Frankfurt’s pieces successfully synthesise playfulness and elegance. The Diamond Medallion Loop Chain ($4,800) – a feminine, floral take on the traditional ID bracelet – can be customised using a variety of stones and shades of gold. The Open Loop Cuff ($9,500, third picture) – a bracelet comprised of numerous fine circles – can be specially ordered and makes a delicate statement. Frankfurt shines at necklace design too, and her offerings run the gamut from casual glass beads ($230-$4,500) to an adjustable Arc Fringe lariat ($8,950, second picture) with a fan of arcs that rests beautifully below the collarbone.

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Bespoke commissions are a favourite for Frankfurt; her customers often bring stones, shells or other souvenirs back from their travels, and have her create an original design. Currently she’s working on an incredible branch coral necklace for a client who just returned from Morocco.

All of Frankfurt’s work – whether parts of her existing collections, or pieces made to order – is exquisitely crafted and above all, original. It is beyond merely pretty: these are pieces that elevate the art of everyday jewellery.

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Supremely elegant bespoke shoes that last a lifetime

A craftswoman who creates dream designs and expert fits in Florence

A craftswoman who creates dream designs and expert fits in Florence

Female artisans don’t typically dominate the cobblers’ market; this is just part of what makes Vivian Saskia Wittmer’s bespoke creations so special. Born in Berlin, trained in Hamburg under master shoemaker Benjamin Klemann and later Florentine cobbler Stefano Bemer, Wittmer (second picture) now crafts custom shoes, boots and other footwear in a creative process that is entirely client-driven. The end result is a unique pair of shoes built to afford the wearer a lifetime of comfort and enduring quality.

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Starting with a trip to her cheerful atelier on Florence’s Via Santa Lucia, the feet of customers – predominantly men, but women as well – are measured, a model is cast (€400), and Wittmer then crafts the shoe around it over a period of approximately four to five months. In her years of creating bespoke designs she’s touched on every style and type, from one-piece pumps that work well for the city, to hunting boots suitable for safaris, to simple ballerina flats, to sky-high heels created to match an elegant evening gown (ladies’ shoes from €1,300). She encourages customers to bring favourite old shoes, sketches, tear sheets, fabrics and finishes for inspiration.

She then sets about creating dream footwear, both inside and out. She requests extensive information about a client’s lifestyle – geography and sartorial needs are taken firmly into consideration – then makes recommendations on everything from construction and closures to the lining of each shoe. She works in a wide variety of high-quality skins and materials, including cordovan, elephant, ostrich, kangaroo, perch, shark, camel, crocodile (first picture) and the ever-popular calfskin. All of her designs are hand stitched – and either Goodyear or Norwegian welted – for beautiful lines that are completely one-of-a-kind and admirably sturdy at the same time.

The process of building a bespoke shoe with Wittmer is a delight, and clients who are pleased with their investment find it easy to repeat the process; the model cast for each client’s foot is kept at her studio so that a future full of scarpe su misura can become a reality.

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Customised coats that banish the winter blues

Happycoat’s Tilla Lindig creates fun, fashionable one-off outerwear

Happycoat’s Tilla Lindig creates fun, fashionable one-off outerwear

Notting Hill-based Tilla Lindig is busy creating a collection of accessible customisable coats. After five years spent building her retail brand in the UK and Europe, she is now focusing on Happycoat, a bespoke business centred around functional, fashionable outerwear – not to mention chic capes and fitted jackets – that is crafted from exquisitely soft wool, in virtually every flattering cut and colour combination imaginable.

A visit to her design space is like a trip to a casual atelier. Raised in Nuremberg by parents in the luxury-fashion-retail industry, she worked at both Giorgio Armani and Christian Dior before launching her own line in 1999. She draws heavily on European tradition for her designs – fine tailoring and attention to detail are de rigeur – but it’s the mix of classic elements (think loden jackets, hand-finished cuffs, woven leather buttons) with just a touch of militaristic Mao thrown in for good measure that makes her pieces so versatile and timeless. All separates are made from Italian wool fabrics, and are produced in Lindig’s native Germany using fair-trade practices.

Her new bespoke process is quite simple. After you sift through a wide selection of pre-made coats in a variety of styles and fabrics (some more wintry, some double-faced, others perfect for spring’s in-between days), Lindig helps identify the shape and colour that bests suits your lifestyle. From the classic Style I (from £350) – a lightweight, unlined coat available in a variety of pastel, bright and classic tones – to the snappy Style IV (second picture, from £380), or structured Kate jacket (named after the Duchess of Cambridge, of course; from £550) in cheerful cerise and purple, the designer is happy to adapt existing models to suit individual needs. You’d like the zippy 1960s cape (first picture, from £550) in toned-down taupe? Simple closures versus bold Bavarian buttons? Lindig is happy to oblige. In addition, she offers a limited number of outerwear options for men and children, all just as stylish as those in the women’s range.

Each commission takes approximately two weeks to complete, but if it’s instant gratification you seek, many of the 40-plus ready-to-wear styles in the Happycoat collection are available online as well, with a new e-boutique opening on the site this spring. In any case, wearing a Lindig piece – especially one in a vibrant tangerine, sky blue or hot-pink hue – will help put a skip in your step for spring.

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