A long weekend in Palm Beach with Aerin Lauder
The scion of the Estée Lauder empire, founder of global luxury lifestyle brand Aerin and Palm Beach habituée shares one-off shops, compelling cultural programmes and top ice creams with Christina Ohly Evans. Portrait by Jeffery Salter
The scion of the Estée Lauder empire, founder of global luxury lifestyle brand Aerin and Palm Beach habituée shares one-off shops, compelling cultural programmes and top ice creams with Christina Ohly Evans. Portrait by Jeffery Salter
“Palm Beach has always been a big part of my life. I grew up spending holidays here with my grandmother [Estée Lauder] and all of my family, and I love the beaches, the sun, the architecture…everything about the place. There is a clear sense of tradition here – people still don black tie for the annual Coconuts New Year’s Eve gala – but there is also an exciting, younger energy in town. The next generation is moving to Palm Beach, and there is an international draw because of its proximity to Miami, so the town feels more vibrant and creative than ever.
My grandmother – who was my mentor – always loved the elegance of Palm Beach; one of her earliest fragrances, Aliage, was inspired by the sporty lifestyle here. Estée always wore white pants, a Pucci shirt and a broad-brimmed straw hat, and my Palm Beach uniform isn’t much different – though I tend to wear white jeans instead. The town is little changed since my childhood; the colours of the bougainvillea, the sculpture gardens and the very specific Mediterranean style of architecture are all wonderfully intact. You’ll find these grand, sweeping estates, as well as beautiful apartments that were built by Addison Mizner in the 1920s. All of these homes and spaces have clear Spanish and Italian influences, with plenty of the white stucco that’s so perfect for the south Florida climate.
Palm Beach’s gardens are some of the most beautiful in the world. The Society of the Four Arts is one of my favourite places not just for flora – there are about 170 plant species including hibiscus, orchids and palms – but also for its incredible sculpture garden, complete with pergolas. It does all kinds of cultural programming – Simon Schama has been here, and documentary filmmaker Ric Burns – as well as concerts and screenings. This is a peaceful place to spend a morning, before heading to the nearby Lake Trail, a bike path that follows the edge of Lake Worth, past boat docks and historic homes and with gorgeous views along the Intracoastal Waterway.
There are all sorts of hotels in Palm Beach, from historical and grand to those with a more boutique feel. But the iconic Breakers, which was built in 1926 in the Italian Renaissance style, is among the best. This is a great spot for everything from tennis and golf to lounging by the pool in one of their cabanas; the spa and gym are perfection too. I’m a big fan of its breakfast buffet – which is served in a massive ballroom that makes you feel like you’re on an old ship. Its relatively new Seafood Bar offers some of the best crab cakes on the island. For a more intimate stay, Brazilian Court has apartment-style suites and also an excellent restaurant by Daniel Boulud, while I like The Colony Hotel in the centre of town for its old-world feel, complete with a beautiful high tea served on the porch.
The heart of Palm Beach is Worth Avenue. You’ll find some of the most incredible shops and restaurants here. One of the most special places, tucked away off Worth Avenue, is Via Mizner – a little courtyard, full of shops and restaurants, that’s on the US National Register of Historic Places. This whole area symbolises the Gilded Age and the work of architect Addison Mizner, whose designs line part of the street. I always encourage people to look up on Worth Avenue, because some of the most beautiful gardens dangle above them; even the palm trees lining the street are lit from below at night.
The shopping here is world class. Kassatly’s – opened in 1923, it’s Worth Avenue’s oldest shop – is a must for towels, while Leta Austin Foster is an institution for luxurious D Porthault linens and children’s clothing. Just next door you’ll find CJ Laing, one of the best places to stock up on cover‑ups, sandals and straw hats. For anyone interested in monogramming and embroidery – of everything, from hand towels to clothing – or even in personalising an order of Oreo cookies, Lori Jayne Monogramming & More is a truly unique find; she will customise virtually anything and her shop is a hidden gem. Hive is another must, for the array of housewares and accessories and, particularly, for the beautiful selection of notecards.
In addition to great shopping, Via Mizner has some excellent restaurants. You can sit outside at Renato’s and enjoy really classic, fresh food: roasted baby artichokes and Dover sole in a beautiful setting. For a more casual bite, I like lunch or dinner at the nearby Pizza al Fresco; it has an excellent thin‑crust frutti di mare pizza and a lovely garden under twinkling lights.
What’s exceptional about this shopping area is its mix of old and new; you’ll find names like Valentino just up from a florist, Tom Mathieu, who does incredible arrangements with tropical plants. Trillion is another classic, with a hugely colourful array of cashmere for men and women. Its Italian sweaters in shades of hot pink, mint and purple are perfect for Palm Beach, and the shop is considered an institution for menswear in particular. Worth Avenue is also home to Mary Mahoney, a noted home-decor boutique where I always find unique glassware and Buccellati silver. And for lovers of vintage, there is no better place than Palm Beach because there is always an estate sale on somewhere. And the Church Mouse on South County Road is a treasure trove of everything from antique furniture to 1960s evening bags and clutches by Emilio Pucci.
One of the newer additions to town is Sant Ambroeus in the Royal Poinciana Plaza, a sister to the New York and Milan cafés. I love it for breakfast, lunch, dinner and sometimes a hazelnut gelato from its standalone cart. But I’m actually very loyal to Sprinkles, the local ice cream shop nearby, because I’ve been going there all my life, and the homemade coconut ice cream is outstanding. For even more old-fashioned atmosphere, there’s Green’s Pharmacy on North County Road; it has a traditional soda fountain counter and makes the best grilled cheese sandwiches and vanilla milkshakes in town. You’ll also find things like Whitman’s Sampler boxes of chocolates and practical sun hats. The whole place is purely nostalgic.
For a short road trip, head just an hour south to Miami where the new Surf Club is both sleek and glamorous. The restaurant there, Le Sirenuse, serves food just like the food at the original in the famous hotel in Positano. You actually do feel transported to the Mediterranean.
My grandmother loved Palm Beach for the natural beauty, the sense of tradition and the people. Even today, there’s an embracing of the old world, but also a younger generation that feels tied to the area. The times that I shared here with my grandmother – visiting the Flagler Museum, sitting in the sunroom in her chairs or just cycling along the bike path – I now enjoy with my sons. I always hope that when people come to Palm Beach they access those same feelings of warmth and history. It is a place for people of all ages, with all kinds of varied interests; but Palm Beach hasn’t changed much over the many years I’ve been coming, and that’s what makes it so special.”
The Aesthete: Jean Nouvel talks personal taste
The Pritzker Prize-winning architect’s projects include the Arab World Institute, the Louvre Abu Dhabi and the forthcoming 53W53 in New York
The Pritzker Prize-winning architect’s projects include the Arab World Institute, the Louvre Abu Dhabi and the forthcoming 53W53 in New York
My personal style signifier is my Yohji Yamamoto black clothing – dress shirts, traditionally cut trousers and a jacket – which I wear for three seasons of the year. I switch to white versions from June to September, because I’m typically in the south of France and more comfortable in lighter clothes. 14/15 Conduit St, London W1 (020-7491 4129; yohjiyamamoto.co.jp).
The last thing I bought and loved was a very minimal black Swatch watch, the Once Again GB743. I don’t buy much, but when I do, it is something functional, simple and made of practical materials. This watch is basic: there’s no messing around. £32; swatch.com.
And the thing I’m eyeing next is a book by one of my idols, Edgar Morin. I love this French philosopher/sociologist’s writing, and I am looking forward to reading The Cinema, or The Imaginary Man, which delves into imagination and human nature. $19.95; University of Minnesota Press.
An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Williamstown, Massachusetts. The landscape in autumn in the Berkshire mountains, with the brilliant red and orange foliage, was the most beautiful I’ve seen in my life. The Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art in nearby North Adams is an exceptional museum with incredible works by Sol LeWitt, and the Clark Art Institute is another world-class institution. Clark Art Institute, 225 South St, Williamstown, MA 01267 (+1413-458 2303; clarkart.edu). MASS MoCA, 87 Marshall St, North Adams, MA 01247 (+1413-662 2111; massmoca.org).
The best gift I’ve given recently was 96 bottles of wine to my father for his 96th birthday. I always give him wine and this year it was Château d’Yquem – one of his favourites. yquem.fr.
And the best one I’ve received was a beautiful original drawing by Claude Parent, from his widow Naad.
A recent “find” is Cartet, a French restaurant near Place de la République. It is like a museum of classic cuisine with specialities such as duck à l’orange and veal chops garnished with morels. With madeleines, chocolate mousse and tarte au citron all placed before you at the end of the meal, dining here is a bit of a wonderful disaster. 62 Rue de Malte, 75011 Paris (+331-4805 1765).
In my fridge you’ll always find foie gras from my home town of Fumel, good wine, chocolate, fruit and cheese, including comté, Roquefort, camembert and chèvre.
My favourite room in my house is my TV room. I am a huge fan of football and rugby, and I love to wash my brain by watching sport. The room is all black and features one of the same beautiful steel stars I used in the dome of the Louvre in Abu Dhabi. louvreabudhabi.ae.
The last thing I added to my wardrobe was a black fedora by Motsch for Hermès, which was steamed to fit my head perfectly. It is highly practical. hermes.com.
The grooming product I’m never without is Eau des Baux by L’Occitane. It has a very specific scent of cypress, which reminds me of the south of France. £46 for 100ml; loccitane.com.
If I didn’t live in Paris, the city I would live in is Nice. I love the setting: it’s on the sea, with beautiful light, and the climate is perfect. I am particularly fond of the old town and the Mont Boron fortification and park. The Yves Klein room at the Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain is a highlight, as is one of my favourite brasseries, Le Safari. It serves simply prepared artichokes, fresh scampi and fish with a Provençal twist. I like this straightforward cuisine. MAMAC, Place Yves Klein, 06364 Nice (+334-9713 4201; mamac-nice.org). Le Safari, 1 Cours Saleya, 06300 Nice (+334-9380 1844; restaurantsafari.fr).
An object I would never part with is my black Persol sunglasses. They fold easily to fit in my pocket, and I am never without them. 714 Series, from £196; persol.com.
Lenny Kravitz’s perfect weekend in Paris
The award-winning musician, producer, actor and oenophile continues to add strings to his creative bow, with his own design studio and a new role as creative director of Dom Pérignon
The award-winning musician, producer, actor and oenophile continues to add strings to his creative bow, with his own design studio and a new role as creative director of Dom Pérignon
“Saturday mornings start with a run in the Bois de Boulogne, near my home in the 16th arrondissement, or a visit to my trainer at L’Usine, a gym near Opéra. I’ll then stroll to the open-air market along Avenue du Président Wilson. I am a green juice, farm-to-table guy, and there’s always an incredible array of organic produce that sets me up for the weekend.
I love furniture and design objects, and wandering the Saint-Germain-des-Prés area gives me creative inspiration. I like Studio 7L, Karl Lagerfeld’s bookstore, which specialises in photography, fashion, design and architecture, and Studio Willy Rizzo, where you’ll find anything from contemporary lacquered tables to vintage fashion photographs. I might end up in the impressionist rooms at the Musée d’Orsay, where I’ll often just sit and relax.
After a morning spent exploring, I’ll go to La Société for a light lunch with friends. It draws a great mix of people – artists, tourists, the fashion crowd – and the space, designed by Christian Liaigre, is very soothing. There are hints of Asia, such as curries and tom yum soup, and the shrimp and avocado salad is excellent. Afterwards I might walk over to the Musée des Arts Décoratifs to see an exhibition such as the recent Dior retrospective, or I’ll go to a show at the Grand Palais.
I spend a lot of time in the Marais too, and for café culture I like Le Loir dans la Théière, which translates to “the dormouse in the teapot” from the Mad Hatter’s tea party. I love the laidback vibe; it looks like a place the Beat poets would have loved, and it’s a good stop for a cup of tea or a lentil salad. Alternatively, L’As du Fallafel, where I’ve been going for the past 30 years, serves excellent falafel sandwiches. There’s a line out the door, but it’s worth the wait.
Saturday nights are about dining out, and Pierre Sang in the 11th does amazing French-Asian cuisine. The Korean-born chef was raised by French parents and it shows in his incredibly fresh, creative food; the surprise tasting menus are delicious. He owns three restaurants in the area and literally runs between them. This one is kind of hipster – and just very cool.
I am a huge opera fan – I sang with the Metropolitan Opera in New York, growing up – and I also love the ballet. Before an evening at the Palais Garnier, I’ll often go to Matsuhisa at the Royal Monceau for its clean, inventive Japanese food.
Nights tend to be late, and the party is at my house: I’ve converted the cellar into a speakeasy. Dance parties might involve Mick Jagger or Naomi Campbell DJing, and at 5am we’ll head to Babylone Bis, an Afro-Caribbean restaurant that’s open all night – something hard to find in Paris. It’s hidden in an alley near Les Halles, and the poulet braisé with plantains, rice and beans and the funky zebra print and pictures of Marvin Gaye make it a fantastic place.
I’ll sleep until 11am, before heading to the Marché aux Puces in Saint-Ouen to look for midcentury pieces by Joe Colombo, Gabriella Crespi, Verner Panton, Warren Platner and Charles and Ray Eames. Galerie Glustin and Galerie Gam are great for furniture and lighting, and Marché Paul Bert is a favourite for fine pieces such as oil paintings, rare glassware and vintage clothing. I’ll have lunch at the Philippe Starck-designed bistro Ma Cocotte, where the food is really French and the open kitchen adds to the lively scene.
By the afternoon I’m burnt out. Friends and family gather, and we’ll cook. I’m more on the vegan side, but there’s always a roast chicken for the others. Then we’ll sit around my library, spinning 1970s records and talking about the album artwork, and I’ll start to feel recharged for the week ahead.”
A long weekend in Cornwall with Olga Polizzi
Rocco Forte’s design director takes Christina Ohly Evans on a seaside sojourn of slick sailboats, sculpture gardens, sublime seafood and secret hideaways.
Rocco Forte’s design director takes Christina Ohly Evans on a seaside sojourn of slick sailboats, sculpture gardens, sublime seafood and secret hideaways.
“I came to Cornwall late in life and fell in love with it straight away. My husband has been coming here all his life; I was introduced to the area 28 years ago and it was a revelation. Cornwall feels like another country – the pace is slower, the light is beautiful and, because the Gulf Stream passes right by, the weather is that much milder. You’ll feel very connected to nature here – the sea, the rocks, the beach – and the people are also incredibly kind. It feels like a particularly vibrant area now, with new restaurants and art galleries adding to the cultural mix. Best of all, you can walk the Cornish coastal path for miles, and while the going isn’t always easy, it is beautiful throughout the seasons.
Of course, I recommend a stay at Hotel Tresanton, the eclectic little inn that I looked at for two years before buying. It was formerly a yacht club; the collection of buildings was in total disrepair when I acquired it, but we’ve managed to create a very relaxed, almost Mediterranean-meets-New England getaway where each of the 30 rooms has a different feel – and a view of the sea. It’s a wonderful place if you like sailing, and we have a magnificent 8m classic yacht named Pinuccia that’s available to our guests. She was built in 1939 to race for Italy at an international competition and from May to the end of September, our skipper Mark will take you sailing around Falmouth bay – one of the most beautiful places for boating in Britain.
I furnished the rooms with antique finds from Penzance and paintings from the Lemon Street Gallery, in Truro; its offerings are as good as anything you’ll find in London, so I am constantly adding to the hotel’s collection of contemporary Cornish and more traditional art.
The village of St Mawes, with the boats bobbing in and out of the harbour, is the perfect, quaint seaside spot for a good meal or a bit of retail therapy. I always recommend The Watch House, where chef Will Gould will give you a very good, seafood-centric meal. In terms of stores, my daughter Charlie’s shop, Onda, in the centre of the village stocks excellent clothing and accessories for young and old alike; I buy many of my clothes here and particularly like the new designers she carries, like Annette Görtz and Munthe, a Scandinavian brand. You can find beach bags, jewellery and the latest trainers, too. The village also has a tiny but very well‑stocked delicatessen called Mr Scorse, which is owned and run by Jon Scorse – a friend who used to work at Tresanton. He sells a very good homemade pesto, all sorts of jams and honey, and delicious Cornish gins.
From St Mawes you can take a lovely walk past one of Henry VIII’s castles, which was built in the 16th century to protect the English coastline. You’ll stroll through fields along the seaside for about an hour before reaching the St Just in Roseland church. Built in the 13th century, it has one of the prettiest churchyards in England, right on the water.
Summer is the perfect time to take the ferry from St Mawes across to Place Creek, and walk either to St Anthony’s Lighthouse or the Hidden Hut, which serves excellent seafood chowder and freshly baked bread, overlooking the pristine Porthcurnick Beach on the Roseland Peninsula. It’s a casual spot, a favourite with locals who come for the bespoke espresso martini ice cream that’s made with Cornish clotted cream or, in season, an excellent elderflower cordial. If one is motivated, however, the coastal path extends for many more miles from here. This area is a true walker’s paradise.
I love going to St Ives, and always make a point of stopping at Leach Pottery outside town. Bernard Leach was one of Britain’s best-known potters; he trained in Japan and came back to St Ives where he started his own kilns. He died many years back, but the exquisite ceramics tradition continues here – there is regularly an artist in residence and it’s a good place for picking up interesting pieces. There’s also Tate St Ives, which has been enlarged and has a very good collection of Cornish art, and I always discover emerging artists at the Penwith Gallery. The Barbara Hepworth Museum, with its lovely sculpture garden, is another must.
In St Ives there are several good restaurants, but my favourite is the Porthminster Beach Café, overlooking the bay and Godrevy Lighthouse beyond. The cuisine has an Asian influence with Cornish ingredients. Everything is fresh, from the vegetables and herbs that come from the back garden to the Porthilly oysters and monkfish served with a tangy curry.
If you want to go a little further afield from St Ives, take the coast road – one of Britain’s most beautiful – to Zennor, and to the best gastro pub I know: The Gurnard’s Head. It has a very limited menu, which I like because it means that everything – mussels, grilled plaice – is fresh. From Zennor, go on to Porthcurno, which is almost the most westerly point of Britain. (Don’t go to Land’s End, however, which is the most westerly point and is rather disappointing.) In Porthcurno there’s the Minack Theatre, perched on the cliffs high above the Atlantic Ocean. It was built between the two world wars and continues to put on plays, concerts and operas every summer in the open air. The stage is set with its back to the sea and the whole thing is very dramatic. The Telegraph Museum here is also worth a look. Over 150 years ago, submarine telegraph cables were laid from here all the way to India. In 1928, the Eastern Telegraph Company merged with Marconi’s Wireless Telegraph Company and this paved the way for today’s worldwide communications system.
From Porthcurno, drive to Mousehole, known for its exquisite circular harbour, and on to Newlyn, one of the largest fishing ports in Cornwall. I always visit the Newlyn Art Gallery, and from there I highly recommend a walk along the promenade to the Jubilee Pool, the newly restored, enormous outdoor pool that’s set into the sea. You can’t leave Newlyn without having a Jelberts ice cream. It only serves vanilla – with a dollop of Cornish clotted cream on top – but it’s simply the best.
Nearby is Penzance, where you will find the Artist Residence, a quirky and unusual hotel run by a lovely young couple who do everything themselves. It is eclectic and fun. Another place that I can go to again and again is the Lizard, a part of Cornwall that is weird, wild, wonderful and a little bit spooky. In Church Cove there you will find the tiny, ancient Gunwalloe Church in a sandy cove on the beach – very moving and romantic. Nearby you can buy lighthouse statues made of Cornish Serpentine marble. I always buy the old ones when I see them.
On the way back to London, Coombeshead Farm near Lewannick is a wonderful bed and breakfast between Cornwall and Devon, nearer to our Hotel Endsleigh than to Tresanton. It’s just 20 miles from Dartmoor National Park and it’s an intimate, magical place. The owners are the acclaimed chefs April Bloomfield and Tom Adams, and they serve absolutely delicious food, grown and picked by them, on their own land. Don’t leave Cornwall without visiting Rick Stein’s The Seafood Restaurant on the north coast. Rick is still Cornwall’s most famous chef, and thousands of people come to Padstow every year to eat his simply prepared, incredibly flavourful seafood.
Cornwall is having a moment; I think that’s because life is much easier here than it is in London. People are helpful, you’re surrounded by nature and there is a large creative community that’s being drawn to the Falmouth School of Art, among other places. I remember not so long ago when I had to bring all my produce down from London, and now you can find all kinds of unusual vegetables and virtually every type of cuisine. Much of life in Cornwall remains the same, but I like that new energy.”
A long weekend in Buenos Aires with Nacho Figueras
From the “best steak in the world” to boots fit for a prince, the polo champion and Ralph Lauren ambassador shares his local secrets with Christina Ohly Evans. Portrait by Javier Pierini
From the “best steak in the world” to boots fit for a prince, the polo champion and Ralph Lauren ambassador shares his local secrets with Christina Ohly Evans. Portrait by Javier Pierini
Architecturally and spiritually, Buenos Aires is a very European city, so it’s often referred to as ‘the Paris of South America’. There are a lot of similarities between the two, for sure – many of the parks and streets were designed by the same people – but in the end, the feel here is distinctly Latin. I think we have a very Spanish/Italian flair, with our love of food, style and overall enthusiasm for life. I travel the world, and no matter where else I visit, I always love BA best. It’s a magical city and it seems to exceed expectations every time.
There has been a rich mix of people and cultures over the past 100 years, and you really see that in the diverse architectural styles and neighbourhoods, as well as in the art and different cuisines. One of the most beautiful periods for Buenos Aires was the belle époque era in the early 1900s, when Argentina was one of the wealthiest countries in the world. During this time some spectacular buildings, such as the Alvear Palace Hotel in Recoleta, were built, and I always recommend a stay here if you want to feel the magic of old‑world Buenos Aires. It was totally renovated recently, but the big top-floor suites still have a classical feel and some have terraces overlooking the city.
The Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt is another grand hotel that’s set in a former mansion, but it has a more minimalist feel than the Alvear. The unique thing here is the rear garden; it’s a complete urban oasis, and a great place to meet for drinks on a warm evening. Then there is the Home Hotel, in Palermo – our version of Williamsburg, Brooklyn – which has a more boutique-y feel, a Nordic-meets-South America design. The very simple but beautiful pool is surrounded by jasmine and all kinds of greenery. But of all the places to stay, one of the best-kept secrets is Estancia La Bamba de Areco, which is just an hour or so outside the city. If you’re looking for horseback riding, a real asado, authentic gauchos and polo playing, this place is just incredible.
The heart of Buenos Aires is the French heritage district of Recoleta, where you’ll find the more formal hotels and shops, as well as some of the best restaurants in the city. One of the most impressive sights here is Recoleta cemetery, which dates from the 18th century and is packed with mausoleums – some beautifully maintained and others in disrepair. Recoleta is the perfect area to shop, and Arandú is a great resource for all kinds of equestrian things; you’ll find cowboy boots, saddles and traditional gaucho bags in bright colours among three floors of gear. Florería Atlántico in Retiro is another favourite. It’s an incredibly fragrant flower shop by day and a lively bar by night, and they serve their own gin that’s flavoured with Argentinian yerba mate tea.
For a slightly more fun, funkier feel I like Palermo Soho and also the tree-lined streets of Palermo Chico. The best steak in the world is at La Cabrera, where the huge slabs of ojo de bife – or ribeye steak – are served with traditional sides and a chimichurri sauce made of garlic, chilli and coriander. The room will be packed with Argentines and tourists alike, and it’s a real taste of local life. Nicky NY is the place for sushi with a lot of ambience, but what I really love is the Harrison Speakeasy bar that’s downstairs. It has a very special, festive vibe, though getting in can be tricky.
This area has culture to offer as well, including the Museum of Latin American Art of Buenos Aires – or MALBA – where the modern and contemporary Latin American art is world class, and so is the granite building that contains the collection. The restaurant here – Ninina – is a perfect spot for a relaxing lunch outside on the patio.
One of the best additions to Palermo Chico in the past few years is the concept boutique Casa Cavia. It’s set in a beautiful white mansion from the 1920s that’s been updated and now includes a restaurant, bar, flower shop and bookstore. I like to have lunch here because not only is the food excellent, the architecture is a mix of historical and contemporary features, and the scene is always lively.
If you’re looking for an haute cuisine experience, then Tegui in Palermo Viejo is the place to try star chef Germán Martitegui’s set menus, which include unique takes on Argentine classics. The chef is often there, making it feel intimate and special, and while the entrance is unassuming, it is regarded as one of the best restaurants in South America. So is Francis Mallmann’s Patagonia Sur in the colourful La Boca neighbourhood. It’s set in a brightly painted private house that only has space for a few people and offers a fixed six-course menu. I take every special guest here – Ralph Lauren, for example – and it’s a wow every time.
The more eclectic San Telmo neighbourhood is another area for exploration, and one of the best shops there is Juan Carlos Pallarols. This silversmith has an international following, and he makes things like the Pope’s chalice – Pope Francis is Argentinian – as well as silver roses and sets of steak knives. He is a true craftsman and his work is so intricate and specific to Buenos Aires. The area comes to life on Sundays, when the Feria de San Telmo antiques fair is held. It’s like our version of the Marché aux Puces, and you can find treasures ranging from early-20th-century linens to full sets of silverware to leather bags and furniture.
There are certain things associated with Buenos Aires, and tango, polo and football are all top of the list. For football fans, a Boca Juniors game is a must; the atmosphere is electric. You’ll find tango all over the city, but the performance at the Faena Hotel in Puerto Madero is among the best, as Rojo Tango gets the top dancers. Although it’s a modern hotel, this is the place to see this musical art form.
Polo is a huge part of my life, but also life in Buenos Aires generally. In November, the Argentine Open is played in fields in the middle of the city and everyone turns out. Polo is played every day at the Cría Yatay polo club, on one of my estancias outside the city, where I also give lessons on occasion and where we host various club matches. This city is a great place to buy kit for the sport, and for polo boots there is none better than Casa Fagliano in Hurlingham. It’s about an hour outside the city, but worth it for the custom boots that are favoured by Prince Charles and the Sultan of Brunei. The family that runs it is amazing; three generations work in the shop, fitting and sewing the boots, and the whole experience feels like being in Geppetto’s workshop.
In the General Díaz area, where I live, there is a great shop for all things to do with tack, called Logi Polo. You’ll find everything here – from helmets to cool T-shirts to polo mallets, of course. For visitors to this area, I always recommend Fettuccine Mario for dinner. It’s a very special restaurant that gives any Italian trattoria a run for its money. This place is old-school; the knowledgeable waiters – most of whom have been there for 25 years – wear white jackets and there is nothing fussy or corporate in sight.
We’re still a little slower here than the rest of the world, and I mean this in the best sense. In general, it’s stayed the same over the years and that’s a good thing. It still feels special and historical, minus the cellphones. Honestly, an excellent cellphone service is a modern curse. I hope people will come here and put away their phones for just a little while, because there is so much beauty to see and so much to experience.
Benjamin Millepied’s favourite bespoke shoemaker
The founder of LA Dance Project and former artistic director of the Paris Opera Ballet reveals to Christina Ohly Evans why the ethics as much as the aesthetics of sneaker brand Feit seduced him. Portrait by Weston Wells
The founder of LA Dance Project and former artistic director of the Paris Opera Ballet reveals to Christina Ohly Evans why the ethics as much as the aesthetics of sneaker brand Feit seduced him.
As a dancer, I’m obviously very sensitive about my feet. Added to that, I tore the plantar fascia in both feet when I was in my 20s – so the way a shoe feels and supports is incredibly important to me. When I met [Feit co-founder] Tull Price about seven years ago, I was intrigued by the fact that his focus was on bespoke leather sneakers and immediately responded to the level of artistry and attention to detail he gives his shoes. He only uses the best natural materials, and his methods of production are unlike those of any other maker I’ve found – and I’ve tried many. Even the latex soles are made from the milk of rubber-tree plants.
It was Feit’s ethos as much as its streamlined aesthetics that resonated with me from the beginning. Most of what we surround ourselves with today – including our shoes – is petroleum based, so Feit is Tull’s reaction to automation and chemical products. All the pairs are handmade using a single piece of leather, giving them an almost Japanese aesthetic that I can dress up or down.
My first pair were navy high-tops with leather laces, and I still wear them all the time. The vegetable-tanned leather manages to be soft, but gives my foot and ankle a lot of support, and they work just as well with jeans as they do with an Ermenegildo Zegna suit. They get more attention than almost any other item in my wardrobe.
Since that first pair, Tull has made more than 10 other pairs of bespoke shoes for me; I also have slip-ons and various takes on the classic Oxford. They’re all well worn, but my favourites are the classic Oxfords in black semi-Cordovan leather, beige Biotrainers that are modelled on a running shoe, and a pair of low lace‑ups in marine-blue suede.
Because Tull has my lasts, he’ll often send me ideas for new pairs that he thinks will work – most recently white slip-ons for LA. But I’ve currently got my eye on commissioning some sneakers in black crackle leather; the finish is really unusual and they’ll be great for travelling.
Whenever I’m in New York, I’ll stop by one of Tull’s two stores – in Nolita or the West Village – to check out new styles and share ideas about comfort and design. We’ve even collaborated on a short film together and there are other ideas in the pipeline. The fact that Tull and I are now good friends makes the whole process of ordering a pair of shoes even more enjoyable.
A long weekend in Lyon with Daniel Boulud
The Michelin-starred chef takes Christina Ohly Evans through France’s undisputed capital of gastronomy. Portrait by Fabio Massimo Aceto
The Michelin-starred chef takes Christina Ohly Evans through France’s undisputed capital of gastronomy. Portrait by Fabio Massimo Aceto
Lyon has always been empowered by industry and by a rich rural history – it is south of Burgundy and Beaujolais, north of the Rhône Valley – and there are Roman and Renaissance references everywhere. But it has also played an important role in French history: throughout the wars and in times of great change, it has been famous for craftsmanship. The silks, fabrics, steel, intricate woodwork, passementerie – all have long been sought after across the world, and in recent times Lyon has been a leading supplier for luxury brands such as Hermès. From the hilltop Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière to the mysterious underground traboules, this city with two rivers and multiple bridges has a similar beauty to Paris, but on a much smaller scale.
One of the very special aspects of Lyon is that food has always been a strong focus. Historically it’s an industrial city, so people had money to spend on it; there has always been a cuisine bourgeoise, and working-class people frequented simple bouchons, where an excellent meal could be had for the price of cooking at home. These establishments are still a staple of Lyon life. When people started driving from Paris to Nice in the 20th century, Lyon became the natural stopping point, and the city had a high concentration of Michelin-starred establishments. Lyon remains the capitale de la gastronomie, though we all still look to Paris, of course.
I visit Lyon five times a year, and I especially love the city in summer, when everyone is outside in the parks and at the farmers’ markets and there are outdoor musical celebrations, such as the festival Les Nuits de Fourvière, held in the Roman amphitheatre. One of my favourite places to stay is Le Royal Hotel, a former family home on Place Bellecour that is now a 74-room hotel. It’s part of the Institut Paul Bocuse, so it’s a culinary school and hotel all in one, elegant and traditional. Another wonderful place for accommodation is Cour des Loges, in the heart of Old Lyon. This Renaissance building has a three-storey frescoed courtyard and the rooms have a cosy, slightly austere feel. One of the most special places to stay, however, is Villa Florentine, which is a boutique Relais & Châteaux hotel in the hills overlooking the city. It has an excellent table and the best views of the town below. It’s a little challenging to get up there, as it is reached by small, winding roads, but it’s worth the effort.
A great day in Lyon begins at the lively food market Les Halles de Lyon – Paul Bocuse, where you can sample oysters for breakfast, followed by sea urchin, tripe, offal or even tête de veau, and perhaps a glass of wine. All the chefs go there to shop and start their day, and it’s a wonderful place to get picnic ingredients before heading to the Parc de la Tête d’Or in the sixth arrondissement. The largest urban park in France, it has everything from a boating lake to bike trails to a rose garden; it’s a lovely place to spend an afternoon.
Before you go, stop at Charcuterie Sibilia to buy meats, particularly the sausage with pistachio and truffle in brioche, and the local minced pork speciality, Jésu de Lyon. For excellent cheeses, you must visit La Mère Richard; its Fourme d’Ambert, Cantal and Saint-Nectaire from the Auvergne are among the best in the world. For pains au levain and praline tarts, Boulangerie Jocteur is a must; it also offers beautiful prepared foods.
But shopping isn’t limited to Les Halles. I like to buy old cookbooks in the Presqu’île – or “peninsula” – district, near the historic Place des Terreaux. On the east side of the square sits the Hôtel de Ville, a city hall redesigned in baroque style by Jules Hardouin-Mansart after a fire in the 17th century. The surrounding streets are home to bookstores such as Librairie Ancienne Clagahé, which has rare leather-bound books and manuscripts. You’ll also find the city’s most beautiful square, the Place Bellecour, which sits between the Rhône and Saône rivers and is lined with elegant 19th-century buildings.
Another area for exploration is the Croix-Rousse, a historic district that was home to silk weavers – or canuts – and is now Lyon’s answer to hipster Brooklyn. Here you’ll find all kinds of wonderful restaurants, including Balthaz’art, a retro-chic bistro with a creative Montbéliarde beef tartare mixed with black olives, capers and candied lemon. Lunch at Daniel & Denise – an authentic bouchon, complete with red check tablecloths – is another highlight; clapeton d’agneau (chilled, shredded lamb’s feet served atop salad) is a speciality. La Meunière is another such place, where most things are served communally: meals begin with bowls of lentils, celery remoulade and pickled ox muzzle, followed by thick slices of a house pâté en croûte that’s called l’oreiller – “pillow” – de la belle meunière and is filled with foie gras, duck heart, chicken, veal and more.
One newer restaurant is Le Suprême, a modern bistro started by one of my former chefs from Daniel in New York – full disclosure: I’m a minority investor. It offers an inventive, affordable tasting menu focused on poulet de Bresse prepared in many different ways – such as chicken liver mousse or stuffed chicken legs – all with wines from producers such as Jean Foillard and Saint-Joseph. For a fancier lunch place, there is La Mère Brazier – the chicken cooked in a pig’s bladder is a highlight – after which you can wander the indoor-outdoor Les Puces du Canal, where you’ll find memorabilia, antique toys, vintage clothing and furnishings – most of which can be shipped back home. The Museum of Gallo-Roman Civilisation has an incredible collection of mosaics, statues and ceramics. After an afternoon of discovery here, I recommend a visit to Bernachon for a coffee and the best chocolates and sweets anywhere. It was founded in the 1950s, and the family has been making “bean to bar” chocolate on site since the 1970s.
No trip to Lyon is complete without a meal at L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, a temple of gastronomy that sits right on the Saône. The restaurant resembles a colourful Thai palace, and the food is just as elaborate. Loup de mer en croûte feuilletée with sauce Choron – a Béarnaise with tomato – and the oeufs à la neige are two of my favourite dishes, and you must have Bernachon’s signature Le Président cake: an incredible ganache dessert topped with shaved chocolate. It’s basically chocolate atop chocolate atop chocolate, and it’s sublime.
Vieux Lyon – or the Old City – is a designated Unesco World Heritage site; the quartiers Saint-Jean and Saint-Georges are both full of winding cobblestone streets with great examples of medieval architecture. The Cathedral of Saint-Jean, which dates from the 12th century, features beautiful stained-glass windows and an astronomical clock that is one of the largest in Europe. But then there are plenty of things to do just outside the city as well, not least a visit to the three-Michelin-star Maison Troisgros for lunch. The train takes you through the beautiful Beaujolais countryside and delivers you to the restaurant door in a little over an hour. Another worthwhile lunch excursion is, of course, the train ride to Valence for a delicious lunch at Anne-Sophie Pic’s Maison Pic. And just outside town, an easy taxi ride away, is the Henri Malartre Museum, a vast collection of everything car- and motorcycle-related – from vintage to modern vehicles – housed in a beautiful 12th-century castle.
But besides its natural and architectural endowments, and its culinary status, Lyon is beautiful because it has stayed true to its historical roots. Tradition still matters very much here. Of course, it’s a dynamic city embracing technology and investing in the future: the culture of sport (particularly football), the culture of food, the cultures of art and artisans – these are all celebrated. But the people of Lyon perfected l’art de vivre – the art of living – a long time ago and this is what has kept it a special place.
The Many Sides of Marriott's Arne Sorenson
The hotel executive spends around two hundred nights per year traveling to his diverse global holdings.
The hotel executive spends around two hundred nights per year traveling to his diverse global holdings.
Following the mega-merger of Marriott International and Starwood Hotels and Resorts Worldwide, CEO Arne Sorenson will helm the world’s largest hotel chain—one with a combined 1.1 million rooms, and 400,000 more coming down the pipeline. Here, he tells Surface about everything from sustainability and LBGT rights to the importance of good design and listening to the competition.
You’re the first non-family member to hold the CEO title at Marriott. Tell me about your path to the top.
I never had a clear plan. My father and both of my grandfathers were Lutheran preachers, and I was born in Japan, where my dad had been posted since 1945. I later went to college and law school, and then worked as a lawyer in Washington, D.C., where I began representing Marriott in 1992. Bill Marriott called and asked me to come to the company, and I said I would, but not as a lawyer. So my first job—more than 20 years ago—was to run mergers and acquisitions. I later became the CFO—a slightly weird move on Mr. Marriott’s part, as I didn’t have the background for it, but he said, “You’ve got a great team, use your judgment, and you’ll figure it out.” I actually don’t think he could do that today. I transitioned to the role of president for a few years, and was appointed CEO in 2012. And while I’m not a family member, everyone had a chance to think about this transition over for a few years. By the time it happened, it was easy.
What’s the culture of the company?
Across the board we put our people above our customers. Of course, our customers are important to us, but the 375,000 employees who wear our name badge are on the front line, and we want them to be empowered, motivated, and happy. If they aren’t, they won’t deliver the kind of service expected of all our brands.
Another part of the cultural story at Marriott is that people talk about people, not their pedigree. So often what we hear is “they went to Harvard” or “they’ve worked for McKinsey” or whatever it is—but that has never been the conversation at Marriott. It’s always about looking at the position a person has now compared to where they started within the company—the general manger who came in as a security guard or the woman running international operations who came in as a pool attendant.
How did the Starwood deal play out?
At first we decided to pass because it was just too expensive and looked like a lot of work. But we changed our minds because of the relative valuations of the companies, and we believe that we can accomplish something by being bigger. There had been rumors about Hyatt buying Starwood, but our announced bid was totally unexpected: It was put together in three weeks and two days.
Then Anbang steps in. They bid 11 or 12 percent more in cash, and in lighting speed, they fully financed that bid. Starwood picked it. We’d done a lot of work, and rather than just walk away, we teed up the best deal that we were prepared to do. Why give up without putting your best foot forward? We announced our revised deal on the Monday I’m in Cuba with President Obama. It then takes a full week before Anbang surfaces again with another bid, which is higher by a billion and a half dollars of financing, which they couldn’t deliver. Why they couldn’t, we don’t know—but we were back to getting our deal done.
Post-merger, will there be enough room for the 30 distinct hotel brands to retain their identities? For example, can Ritz-Carlton and St. Regis co-exist with business as usual?
All of the brands will keep their relative positioning, and the loyalty program serves as the umbrella for all of them. But we’ll try to emphasize swim lanes between the brands: Ritz-Carlton and St. Regis in the luxury segment, Edition and W Hotels in the lifestyle group, and AC Marriott and Aloft. These last two are similar in terms of psychographics, a word that I hate—AC has a European flavor while Aloft is about an American lifestyle. I don’t have all the answers—we’ll figure out what service and design cues, as well as food and beverage cues, we can implement over time to make a brighter distinction between these brands.
How important is design to the overall Marriott brand?
I’m very interested in design, but I’m a lawyer by training, so I think our owners would shudder if they thought I was going to direct them in this area. The Edition partnership with Ian [Schrager] has been great, and I’ve loved being involved with the development process of the brand. My personal preference is for Midwestern design—Prairie School, Frank Lloyd Wright—and the use of natural woods and windows. I would love to work with Tom Kundig, specifically because of his use of windows and light.
Who do you like working with from a design perspective?
I’ve been very impressed with Yabu Pushelberg, David Rockwell and his team, John Pawson, and while I haven’t worked with her, I like Jeanne Gang’s work quite a lot.
Which competitors do you think are doing interesting things and why?
The whole boutique thing is very powerful. I think a lot of credit goes to Ian Schrager. Some of the independents that have popped up in the last decade—The Bowery Hotel, the Tribeca Grand, The Mercer—are all really compelling.
How much of your time is spent on the road?
Two hundred nights a year, all over the world. I don’t attend many conferences, but Davos is an exception, because we accomplish so many different things: All of our big customers are there, and we can address travel policy issues more easily. Technology companies that we’re trying to partner with—or that we’re worried about—are also there.
How do you view the sharing economy and the rise of companies like Airbnb? Do you have plans to compete in this space?
It’s fascinating. I hope we’re not as exposed to this as the taxi industry is right now. Taxis in many cities are awful and hard to find. So here comes Uber with a better product. In the hotel business, I still think we can deliver better service, so we don’t have quite the same risk. Airbnb is fascinating. Increasingly, it’s less personal, and there are more dedicated units. The more they get into that space, they become a competitor. The story isn’t over, but we’re set up to compete well.
How is the controversial new “bathroom law” that affects LGBT rights impacting your businesses in North Carolina?
There is already $100 million of business that has run away from North Carolina because of this. I think the thing that is so sad about this legislation is that it doesn’t do justice to the people of North Carolina, who are warm and welcoming. It’s just a law intended to drive a wedge between people. It’s judgmental, bad for business, and just awful. Period.
Starwood and Marriott are the first hotels to obtain U.S. Treasury Department authorization to operate in Cuba. What does this mean for the company, and how will they take shape?
Cuba is one of those markets that totally captivates us: the history, the politics—we all want to go and experience this extraordinary culture. Starwood will open later this year, and they have three deals signed. Marriott has several deals under discussion. Cuba doesn’t have to compete by simply offering a beach vacation: It has something very powerful and distinct.
What properties and efforts are you most proud of?
Haiti and Cuba, and the forthcoming Kigali, Rwanda, hotel—these properties are producing jobs that are transformative for people’s lives. In Haiti, we now have 200 associates at the Marriott there. Most of these people never had a job that was predictable before. This affects everything—the way they house their children, education, all the things that we take for granted.
To see the rest of this year’s Power 100, order the August issue of Surface here.
Angela Missoni talks personal taste: Part One
Angela Missoni is creative director of her family’s knitwear brand, loved for its psychedelic zig-zags and vibrant colour
Angela Missoni is creative director of her family’s knitwear brand, loved for its psychedelic zig-zags and vibrant colour
My personal style signifiers are the long gold chains with pendants I collect and have worn every day for the past 15 years. I like to be inventive with my jewellery and often add charms or beads to necklaces and dangly earrings, and I always wear stacks of silver filigree and gold rings on at least six or seven of my fingers.
The last thing I bought and loved was a classic Persian carpet [pictured] with the words “Good ideas come through freedom” burned into the fibres, by Italian artist Loredana Longo. It is beautiful and inspirational. www.loredanalongo.com.
And the thing I’m eyeing next is a tree house for my home in Sumirago, outside Milan. I have always loved the idea of a secret escape and just this morning, walking in my garden, I found the perfect tree for it. My grandson, Otto, will love it too.
A recent “find” is La Baia di Moltrasio, a bar and restaurant at the top of a local rowing club on Lake Como. The terrace is very romantic in the summer months and long tables are set up inside during colder weather too. It is all about the food here and their fresh fish grilled with butter and herbs and the local speciality, riso in cagnone [rice fried with butter and sage], are the best I’ve ever tasted. Via Bellini 4, 22010 Moltrasio (+39031-376 093; www.labaiadimoltrasio.com).
The last items I added to my wardrobe were a pair of lime-green Nike Flyknit trainers [pictured]. I’d been eyeing them for a while and walking all over Milan in high heels during Fashion Week finally clinched the deal. I love the bright colour and knitted design. £130; www.nike.com.
An object I would never part with is a painting that once hung in my grandmother’s house and was given to me by a dear aunt. It is of a young girl from the 1950s and I like that it now hangs next to a colourful contemporary Tracey Emin piece in my house.
An indulgence I would never forgo is time spent at the Sofitel Quiberon Thalassa Sea & Spa [pictured] in Brittany. I have been going to this magnetic place for years; it is one of my favourite spots in the world because of the scenery – the rocks and beaches are spectacular – and the thalassotherapy massages, salt scrubs and seaweed wraps. It’s a very healthy, holistic place – not a beauty spa or a place of deprivation – and I always leave feeling refreshed, energised and a bit slimmer. It is one of the only spas I know that also appeals to men, which makes it a wonderful escape for my partner Bruno and I. Boulevard Louison Bobet, 56170 Quiberon (+332-9750 4888; www.thalassa.com).
The last music I downloaded was Wicked Game by Chris Isaak [pictured]. The song is old but I love the tune and the lyrics; it figured prominently in my last fashion show.
The beauty staples I’m never without are traditional hammam gloves and Tunisian black soap, which I use daily to exfoliate, and Louis Widmer’s Remederm Shower Oil, which is good for sensitive skin and leaves me feeling very moisturised. £8 for 150ml; www.louis‑widmer.nl.
If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose the 5Vie art and design district in Milan. I love Wait and See, an eclectic clothes shop in a former 18th-century convent that sells a mix of emerging designers and vintage finds from all over the world. And Rossana Orlandi – a magical design gallery set in a garden courtyard – is a treasure trove of new and classic pieces. Afterwards, a stop at La Latteria nearby is a must; it’s a tiny, authentic place with only about eight tables and they serve delicious traditionally Milanese riso al salto – risotto fritters. La Latteria San Marco, Via S Marco 24 (+3902-659 7653). Rossana Orlandi, Via Matteo Bandello 14/16 (+3902-467 4471; www.rossanaorlandi.com). Wait and See, Via Santa Marta 14 (+3902-7208 0195; www.waitandsee.it).
My favourite websites are the Business of Fashion for industry news; Corriere della Sera and The New York Times for current affairs; and Internazionale for the best articles from all over the world. I am also a huge fan of Instagram. www.businessoffashion.com. www.corriere.it. www.internazionale.it. www.instagram.com. www.nytimes.com.
Angela Missoni talks personal taste: Part Two
The fashion designer sews up her list of likes with surrealist art, elaborate saris from Rajasthan and shopping in Saint Germain
The fashion designer sews up her list of likes with surrealist art, elaborate saris from Rajasthan and shopping in Saint Germain
My style icon is my mother Rosita, who at 84 years old is still the chicest person I know. She always looks great – even at the market or at home watching television – with her perfect hair, beautiful earrings and casual yet elegant wardrobe. I have always been a bit wilder in my look but wish I could be as naturally stylish as she is. I also admire Joyce Ma – the 1970s fashion icon who had a great eye for avant-garde design – and Carine Roitfeld who has a very distinctive aesthetic.
The best gift I’ve given recently was a series of three simple gold bangles from the 1950s, to my daughter Teresa for her birthday. I found them at a shop in Venice that was going out of business. They have large charms with the Pope’s face on them and are quite quirky and wonderful.
And the best ones I’ve received recently are, from my other daughter Margherita, a cheeky embroidered bra she transformed into a lampshade; a special glass box installation piece from Teresa; and my partner Bruno gave me a Brassaï photograph of a woman’s body in a frame engraved with a design by Picasso at the top. I cherish all three.
The last meal that truly impressed me was at Da Pasqualina, a small rustic restaurant in Murta Maria in Sardinia. The way they cook here is magical – everything is very simple yet delicious, with an emphasis on pasta and fresh fish. The best dish is spaghetti with local sea urchin. Via dello Zenzero, Murta Maria, Olbia, Sardinia (+390789-36808).
The sight that inspires me is the view of the mountains from my home in Sumirago, outside Milan. I always position myself in places with a view, and the Alps as seen from my bedroom are completely reinvigorating. Monte Rosa – or Pink Mountain – is especially beautiful at dawn when the reflection of the sun casts a dusky rose over the Lombard Alps.
In my fridge you’ll always find a selection of cheeses and salami, and a bottle of Vermentino, a white wine from Sardinia. Everything else I like to buy fresh on the day.
The artists whose work I would collect if I could are pioneers of surrealism Salvador Dalí and Joan Miró, whose work I find fascinating. They are far too expensive now, but I’d like the contrast these works would provide with the pieces by Jenny Holzer, Francesco Vezzoli and Tracey Emin that hang in my home.
An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is India, and specifically Rajasthan. Everything about this country is magical: the ambience, the vivid colours, the geography, the deep traditions, the delicious food and the artisans and craftspeople who really know the true meaning of luxury. I was fascinated by the different textiles and embroideries, especially the beautiful white cotton dhotis and elaborate saris. The jewellery is magnificent too and at a behind-the-scenes peek at the Gem Palace in Jaipur – an Aladdin’s cave of beautiful things – I saw special marriage jewels and private collections of stunning emeralds and diamonds. Jaipur was a complete sensorial experience, and our stay at the Raj Palace – with its beautiful grounds and impeccable service – was a real highlight. Gem Palace, Shop 348, MI Road, Jaipur (+91141-237 4175; www.gempalacejaipur.com). Raj Palace, Near Jorawer Singh Gate, Amer Road, Jaipur (+91141-263 4077; www.rajpalace.com).
And the best souvenir I’ve brought home is a crystal-encrusted turtle shell from Jamaica. A local artisan transformed this beautiful shell into a charm and I wear it on my favourite summer necklace. It reminds me of a very special time on this island.
My favourite room in my house is my bedroom. I feel as though I’m outside because there’s so much glass and natural light. In the middle of the room there is a huge sliding door that separates my sleeping area from the sitting area and I use it as a kind of rotating photo gallery – it is covered with pictures of my children and grandchildren and gives me great joy.
The people I rely on for personal grooming are the therapists at Violette nail salon in Milan, which my daughters introduced me to. They do a great manicure. Via Panfilo Castaldi 14, 20124 Milan (+3902-2951 9283; www.violettemilano.com).
The books on my bedside table include my father Ottavio Missoni’s autobiography, Una vita sul filo di lana, which I have never read in its entirety and I’ve decided it’s time I did, and Piero Fornasetti’s Practical Madness – a book that was published to coincide with the last exhibition of this inventive designer’s work. I also have stacks of travel magazines – National Geographic, Condé Nast Traveller – because I love to see the world.
If I didn’t live in Sumirago, the city I would live in is Paris, probably in or around Saint-Germain-des-Prés. I love the light and the wonderful food – L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon is a favourite for small plates of gyoza, grilled langoustines and crabe royal. I like exploring the streets along the Seine and ending up at the Gae Aulenti-designed Musée d’Orsay, and my favourite flea markets in the world are here, including the Marché aux Puces and Porte de Vanves; I could spend days there. But truthfully, I wouldn’t live anywhere but Sumirago because I love the country, and as it is I am 15 minutes from an international airport, 45 minutes from Milan, an hour by plane from Sardinia and a two-hour flight from London. L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, 5 Rue Montalembert (+331-4222 5656; www.atelier-robuchon-saint-germain.com). Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen, Avenue de la Porte de Clignancourt (www.marcheauxpuces-saintouen.com). Musée d’Orsay, 1 Rue de la Légion d’Honneur (+331-4049 4814; www.musee-orsay.fr). Porte de Vanves, Avenue Georges Lafenestre (+336-8689 9996; www.pucesdevanves.fr).
If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be an interior designer because I like to create comfortable environments where things are in harmony. The details of this type of work appeal to me and I love to be surrounded by colour, texture and good design.