Made-to-measure bicycles for every occasion

A master Japanese bike builder offers the perfect custom ride

For the truly dedicated rider, a bespoke bicycle is just about as good as it gets. And few are finer than the road (first picture) and track versions handcrafted by Kinfolk Studios, a multidisciplinary design and production company based in Tokyo and Williamsburg, Brooklyn.

Founded in 2008 by four friends, hailing respectively from New York, Los Angeles, Sydney and Tokyo – who sought a fifth partner in master bicycle craftsman Kusaka-San (second picture) – Kinfolk has grown from strength to strength, driven by a desire to produce functional, sculptural bicycles.

“With a custom bike the rider can get a perfect fit as well as the exact colours and design he or she wants,” explains co-founder John Beullens. “It also allows them to get deep into the technical options of the bike. Our customer is someone who appreciates very high quality and attention to detail.”

Ordering a custom Kinfolk frame (or the entire outfitted bicycle, if you wish) is made quite simple through a series of initial emails and phone calls. No visit to Kusaka-San is required; clients simply provide details, such as their height, inside leg and colour preferences (a vibrant array of paint finishes, including glossy, matt or metallic, is available), to get the commission process started. Kusaka-San then puts his 30-plus years of experience in the bike-building business to use, handcrafting a client’s dream ride. After a career spent making track bikes for Japan’s competitive Keirin racers, he is now widely regarded as one of the country’s top builders.

Each Custom Track Frame Set (from £1,098) comes standard with Tange No 1 tubing, a Kalavinka lug set, a threaded circular fork and a Kusaka seat stay cluster, as well as a gorgeous chrome finish. Extra options include a variety of tubing types, additional forks, seats and intricate detailing. If a classic steel-lugged road bike (from £1,253) – an old-school style (think classic ten-speed) that’s perfect for cruising around town and enduring longer distances – is more your speed, then Kinfolk can easily fulfill that wish as well. If you’re a real nomad, then the International bike (from £1,638) is ideal as it can be disassembled.

Kinfolk Studios produces about six to 10 bicycles per month, and delivery takes four to six weeks, depending on the model and level of customisation. Completely finished bicycles – with state-of-the-art tyres, comfy seats and handlebars – range in price from £2,300 to £4,600 (urban bike in third picture). For the passionate cyclist, they’re worth every penny.

Ten Best London Family Hotels

Get Your Bearings

The best family-friendly hotels are typically found in South London, which has abundant green spaces and green grocers and is close to tourist attractions. Central London is pricier, but also close to attractions. North London is slim pickings. Here are our parent- and kid-approved favorites.

South London

The Berkeley
32a Wilton Place, Knightsbridge, SW1X 7RL; +44-20-7235-6000
It has a rooftop pool. Enough said. And it's near Hyde Park, Harrods, and Yo Sushi! at the top of Harvey Nichols.

Knightsbridge Hotel 
10 Beaufort Gardens, Knightsbridge, SW3 1PT; +44-20-7584-6300
One of the Firmdale hotels on a quiet square steps from Brompton Road, Hyde Park, and Beauchamp Place. Bonus points for the life-saving Pizza Express nearby.

The Milestone Hotel
Kids will love the pomp and circumstance - porters in top hats, high tea in the overly chintzy dining room - at this Kensington classic.  Hyde Park, the Natural History Museum, and the hotel's subterranean, small pool are all welcome escapes on the occasional hot, summer day. Don't miss the comprehensive breakfast spread at Cheneston's where proper sausages, "soldiers" and baked tomatoes are served in a particularly English setting.

The Baglioni Hotel
This elegant property sits opposite Kensington Palace and puts you in striking distance to the Princess Diana Playground, Buckingham Palace, and the kid-centric Science Museum, as well as the mega Whole Foods on Kensington High Street.  Enjoy the breakfast feast on the patio and head across the street to Wagamama for lunches of family-friendly ramen served at communal tables. Spacious second floor suites with separate sitting areas and park views are ideal for families.

Breakfast at The Baglioni. Photo courtesy of The Baglioni Hotel.

Central London

The Arch
Great Cumberland Place, Marylebone, W1H 7FD; +44-20-7724-4700
An 82-room boutique hotel perfect for exploring the shops of Bond and Regent Streets as well as the London Zoo in beautiful Regents Park. Even better, it's very affordable, especially considering the neighborhood. Kids will love burgers in the lobby Brasserie or afternoon tea in the library at this modern, somewhat hidden gem (which you'd call a "bolthole" if you were trying to be British about it).

The Athanaeum 
116 Piccadilly, W1J 7BJ; +44-20-7499-3464
A family-owned hotel sandwiched between Hyde Park and Green Park and known for it's family-friendliness, down to the special kid's concierge and nannies on staff. The hotel will stock your room or apartment with kids' favorite drinks. Age-appropriate diversions range from kites, bikes, and frisbees to movies and PlayStations. For infants, organic baby food, Baby Einstein DVDs, and disposable diapers are all available.

The pool at The Berkeley Hotel.

Four Seasons London at Park Lane
Hamilton Place, Mayfair, W1J 7DR; +44-20-7499-0888
When it comes to kids, few do it better than the Four Seasons, and this newly refurbished hotel is no exception. Perfectly located near Hyde Park, kids will love the ease of access to playgrounds, ponds, and paddle boats in warmer months. Winter Wonderland, a cheesy and terrific London highlight filled with games, rides, and general holiday cheer, runs from November to January and is literally across the street. The top-notch concierges can arrange everything from horseback rides to proper high tea complete with cucumber sandwiches and sweet scones with clotted cream.

The Corinthia
Whitehall Place, Charing Cross, SW1A 2BD; +44-20-7321-3000
Well located near Trafalgar Square and Covent Garden, this grand (almost ridiculously so) new hotel is great for exploring The Crown Jewels at Tower of London, The London Eye, and a truly terrific Aquarium. River suites offer separate spacious sitting rooms as well as sweeping views of the Thames. With more than four restaurants to choose from, kids and their discerning parents can feast on everything from Cumbrian beef burgers and crisp chips at The Northall to fresh shellfish at Massimo Oyster Bar.

Photo courtesy of The Corinthia London.

North London

London Marriot Hotel Maida Vale 
Plaza Parade, Maida Vale, NW6 5RP; +44-20-7543-2100
Location, location, location. This one isn't full of charm, but it is perfectly placed for exploring the charming shops and restaurants of this North London area. Don't miss nearby Little Venice, an area full of houseboats and local color. If you're looking for more true Brit, Lord's Cricket Ground is just down the street.

St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel London
Euston Road, Kings Cross, NW1 2AR; +44-20-7841-3540
After a decade-long renovation, this massive Victorian gem has great family accommodations. High ceilings and ornate moldings recall the past; free WiFi and spacious rooms are modern comforts. Bonus points for the subterranean swimming pool and the fact that you're literally seconds from the Eurostar which departs from St. Pancras Station. It's a Marriott, which means you can use your miles on the rates. Just know that rooms in the older building are superior to those in the new wing.

More Affordable Options

MyHotel Chelsea
35 Ixworth Place, Chelsea, SW3 3QX; +44-20-7225-7500
Slightly mod, low-key, and absolutely well-placed near Chelsea Green. A delicious breakfast spread, proximity to great restaurants for kids (conveyor belt sushi at Itsu, perfect steak frites at La Brasserie), and St. Luke's playground are all pluses.

The Sloane Square Hotel
7-12 Sloane Square, Chelsea, SW1W 8EG; +44-20-7896-9988 
This one has family rooms — a rarity in the UK and Europe — where four can fit semi-comfortably. Well-situated to Peter Jones (department store where you'll inevitably end up after having forgotten some key piece of equipment) and the King's Road. Proximity to the Duke of Yorks Square add to the appeal.

The Royal Garden Hotel
What it lacks in charm, it more than makes up for with its killer location on Hyde Park and sleekly appointed rooms.  One of the more modern hotels in this residential area, it offers rooms designed for families (interconnecting options, larger suites) as well as the top floor Min Jiang restaurant.  With enormous, panoramic views overlooking the park and excellent dim sum and craft cocktails, the restaurant alone is worth a detour.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Find restaurants, shops, itineraries, and things to do in our London Guide.

MAP IT

See all the hotels mentioned in this story. (Google Maps)

BUT WAIT, MORE FAMILY TRAVEL IN LONDON 

Three Days in London with the Kids
Classics and Royals

Just Back From: Prague

Just back from: Prague, Czech Republic.

Was it your first time? Yes.

How long were you there? 36 hours.

Why did you go? I've always wanted to see this city of castles and gothic churches, and since I'm living in London, it was an easy time to visit. The flight time is less than two hours.

Who were you with? My 9-year-old daughter, Kate. She is the most curious, easy-going traveler ever.

What was the best tip you got before you left? I had been warned me about trying to visit Charles Bridge during crowded daytime hours when everything is jammed with vendors and tourists. We took an after-dinner stroll instead. It was calm, and the fairytale castle was twinkling in the distance. The second tip came from a Trip Advisor post warning that cobblestone streets are hellish on the feet, especially in the colder winter months. So we packed thick, rubber-soled shoes, and that made a huge difference.

What's the #1 tip you'd give to a friend who wanted to go? Stay at the Four Seasons Prague. It's perfectly situated for exploring the New and Old Towns, the Prague Castle, Old Town Square, and Wenceslas Square. They also completely get kids: Those in-room amenities go a long way. (My daughter is a sucker for a robe, slippers, and colored bath tints.) Oh, and bring comfortable walking shoes for sure. Those cobblestones are everywhere.

What did you do: We knocked it out in a day. First stop was the castle complex to visit the Royal Palace, the Monastery, and St. Vitus Cathedral, which has stunning stained glass windows. Then a bit of light shopping — puppets, postcards — followed by a delicious lunch at Pizzeria Rugantino. Arugula salad and prosciutto have never looked so good. Our afternoon was spent climbing the Old Tower Bridge for views of the city (this is vertigo-inducing), crossing the Charles Bridge, exploring the Jewish Quarter, and the Old Town Square. After watching the gorgeous Astronomical Clock ring, we enjoyed strudel (the local specialty) and coffee in one of the cafes along the square. After relaxing at the hotel (read: bad TV, a wonderful bath, and teatime), we headed to a festive dinner at Barock, complete with a slightly cheesy piano player. Lovely view across the street to the Jewish synagogue and cheerful service, too.

Were you there for the right amount of time? I tend to have a short attention span, so 36 hours anywhere works well for me. I would, however, love to see Prague in summer when everything is in full flower, so maybe I'll make it a whole weekend next time.

This was especially great: The castle complex at night is pretty spectacular, especially with a light dusting of snow. Think Anna Karenina meets DisneyWorld.

But this wasn't: The food, generally speaking. I had flashbacks to Russia: not too many vegetables, lots of fried things, beef goulash at every turn. My only other gripe was that there are few crosswalks, and getting slammed by a high-speed tram is a very real possibility.

Speed round of favorites.
1. Meal: Tough one. Barock is as much of a scene as Prague has to offer, and their mix of incredibly fresh sushi, typical Czech dishes, and meat was good. Any restaurant with the tagline "delicious meal and beautiful women" is going to be a hoot.

2. Neighborhood: The Jewish Quarter.

3. Site: The baroque splendor of St. Nicholas Church.

4. Café: Café Mistral. Near the hotel and perfect for a light meal and a glass of wine.

Kodak moment: Snow falling around the Old Town Square as we watched the Astronomical Clock — with its procession of the twelve apostles — ring out on the hour.

Thing you didn't get to visit: The Christmas Markets are meant to be wonderful, so I'd like to return for that sometime. The beer gardens are also supposed to be festive and fun during the summer. But next time I am going to check out The Augustine, a Rocco Forte hotel in a former monastery that still has an order of friars living on-site. Apparently, they will take you for tours around the libraries, cloister, and church.

What did you bring back? The Czech Republic is the land of marionettes, so we brought back a spectacular Pippi Longstocking puppet for Kate's room. We scored a matryoshka doll set of the LA Lakers for my son — handmade in Prague and featuring all of the players (Kobe Bryant, Lamar Odom) in one case. The perfect mix of Americana and local color!

Would you go back? Definitely.

Any surprises? It was much smaller and more walkable than I had imagined. It was also architecturally beautiful throughout — not just the famous sights. Even the offices and apartment building are spectacular in that Parisian way. I was surprised at the weird US brands that kept cropping up — TGIFridays and Hooters seem remarkably out of place amidst all the medieval, romanesque, and gothic beauty. I was also pleasantly surprised by the customs procedure at the airport — or the lack of it. No landing cards, only a cursory glance at passports, and just a big smile from the agent. Not exactly a JFK experience!

I can't stop thinking about: The spectacular view from my bed, overlooking the Vlatava River with Prague Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral in the distance.

FIND IT

Four Seasons Prague
Veleslavínova 1098/2a
110 00 Prague 1-Old Town, Czech Republic
+420-221-427-000

MAP IT

See the locations mentioned in this story. (Google Maps)

Supremely elegant bespoke shoes that last a lifetime

A craftswoman who creates dream designs and expert fits in Florence

Female artisans don’t typically dominate the cobblers’ market; this is just part of what makes Vivian Saskia Wittmer’s bespoke creations so special. Born in Berlin, trained in Hamburg under master shoemaker Benjamin Klemann and later Florentine cobbler Stefano Bemer, Wittmer (second picture) now crafts custom shoes, boots and other footwear in a creative process that is entirely client-driven. The end result is a unique pair of shoes built to afford the wearer a lifetime of comfort and enduring quality.

Starting with a trip to her cheerful atelier on Florence’s Via Santa Lucia, the feet of customers – predominantly men, but women as well – are measured, a model is cast (€400), and Wittmer then crafts the shoe around it over a period of approximately four to five months. In her years of creating bespoke designs she’s touched on every style and type, from one-piece pumps that work well for the city, to hunting boots suitable for safaris, to simple ballerina flats, to sky-high heels created to match an elegant evening gown (ladies’ shoes from €1,300). She encourages customers to bring favourite old shoes, sketches, tear sheets, fabrics and finishes for inspiration.

She then sets about creating dream footwear, both inside and out. She requests extensive information about a client’s lifestyle – geography and sartorial needs are taken firmly into consideration – then makes recommendations on everything from construction and closures to the lining of each shoe. She works in a wide variety of high-quality skins and materials, including cordovan, elephant, ostrich, kangaroo, perch, shark, camel, crocodile (first picture) and the ever-popular calfskin. All of her designs are hand stitched – and either Goodyear or Norwegian welted – for beautiful lines that are completely one-of-a-kind and admirably sturdy at the same time.

The process of building a bespoke shoe with Wittmer is a delight, and clients who are pleased with their investment find it easy to repeat the process; the model cast for each client’s foot is kept at her studio so that a future full of scarpe su misura can become a reality.

Exquisite ceramics inspired by nature and prehistory

A south-west ceramicist who creates beautiful sculptural pieces

I am by no means a fine-art collector, but I do love what I love; and for the past 10 years I’ve been rather obsessed with the work of Paul Philp, an under-the-radar ceramicist based in Bath.

I came to know his work through the International Fine Art and Antique Dealers Show in New York (his gallerist brother, Richard, was exhibiting old master drawings, medieval and renaissance sculpture and antiquities) – and, it seems, I’ve followed him all the way back to Britain. I recently decided to track him down and learn a bit more about his unusual craft, over a decade since I first purchased one of his pieces: an exquisitely simple white bowl that is still the centrepiece of my sitting room.

Inspired by “nature and geology, as well as weathered monuments such as Stonehenge”, Philp’s work is unlike most other items you’re likely to find on the contemporary ceramics market. Each of his lovingly created bowls, vessels and sculptures grows organically as he builds it piece by piece – adding the clay slowly by hand, rather than using a wheel. With a mix of Devon ball clay, Staffordshire fire clay and earthenware clay, as well as sea sand, tree bark and crushed firebricks, he produces a wide range of textures and encrusted surfaces. Between the firings at extreme temperatures (there can be up to five, with both gas and electric kilns used), Philp carves, refines and adds colour to his pieces – brushed-on iron and copper oxides are sealed in white or wet clay – for an overall effect that is full of subtle fissures and crags, each emitting a delicate glaze.

While he creates a wide array of dark and light pieces, Philp tends to prefer white or neutral shades, and feels his work is best suited to the indoors, where it is spared both water and frost. His sculptural creations – mostly ranging in height from 15cm to 35cm – are both classical in form and Asian in feel.

“I have a flint boulder found on the beach at Charmouth,” he told me, “that is as good as any Henry Moore”. My sentiments – about his work – exactly.

Richard Philp Gallery, 7 Ravenscourt Square, London W6 (020-8748 5678; www.richardphilp.com). Prices start from £900.

The Gucci Museum offers exclusive treats

A temple to the double-bit logo’s past and present, with a great shop

Usually I come to Florence to immerse myself in the Renaissance: the massive Duomo, the treasures of the Uffizi, that sort of thing – with an occasional stroll down Via Tornabuoni thrown in for good (retail) measure. But my most recent trip found me at the Gucci Museo – a special exhibition space, shop and bustling café all rolled into one fabulous 14th-century palazzo at the heart of the Piazza della Signoria that opened last October.

It offers a wonderful juxtaposition of old and new – Medici history mixed with the house’s iconic motifs (not to mention a seriously tricked-out 1970s Cadillac Seville). I had a ball discovering everything from Gucci golf clubs to luggage to brocade gowns to elegant crystal-studded minaudières. After a spin through spaces both blinged-out and somewhat bare – and with a stop in the Contemporary Art area to watch a video installation by Bill Viola – I headed straight for the ground-floor shop. And here’s where this place really gets interesting.

It turns out the museum’s shop sells the marque’s Icon Collection – including exclusive pieces only available at this particular Florence location. Not on the Via Montenapoleone, or at Rome’s Fiumicino Airport – not even over at the Florence flagship store, on the Via Tornabuoni: only here. I found a colourful array of leather and crocodile bags and horsebit moccasins (examples in first picture; from €580 for leather, €4,750 for crocodile), as well as the timeless Flora scarf (€380), made famous by Grace Kelly and recently reintroduced by Gucci’s creative director, Frida Giannini. There are bangle watches (second picture, €2,500) with various vibrant casings, and bamboo-trimmed wallets (from €589) and riding boots (women’s €980, men’s €990) made specially for the collection.

Now, I’m by no means suggesting you forgo the Bargello or the Pitti Palace on your next visit to this magical city. But do stop at the Museo for an uplifting and unexpected – and, in the Icon Collection’s case, 100 per cent unique – look at the past, present and future of Gucci.

Farm-to-table and fabulous: only in LA

Comfort food with a SoCal twist at a west Los Angeles eatery

Fresh, innovative food: nobody does it better than Californians. Full stop. Whenever I visit Santa Monica, one of my first stops is always Rustic Canyon, Huckleberry or Sweet Rose Creamery, three wholesomely delicious local favourites, all within about a three-mile radius and all run by the same team, Josh Loeb and Zoe Nathan. I’d heard a lot about their latest venture, called Milo + Olive, down on Wilshire – so this visit, I made a beeline.

Image: Emily Hart

At lunch or dinner, you’ll likely find all 24 seats packed. The stars are the eight to ten daily pizzas, which include everything from a butternut squash pie ($18) – complete with fresh mozzarella, caramelised onion, sage and brown butter – to the meat lover’s pork belly sausage-topped variety ($17).

But, for me, breakfast is the thing. There are fresh baked goods of every imaginable kind – M+O bagels, for example, feature sophisticated toppings such as housemade dill creme fraiche, sliced cucumbers, red onion and sea salt ($5). I’ll go for heartier options, too – Cheesy Eggs on Super Cheesy Toast (soft scrambled eggs laden with Parmigiano Reggiano and, if I’m feeling particularly ravenous, a few slices of La Quercia prosciutto on top; $8), as well as the requisite SoCal repast of muesli ($6.50) with fresh market berries on the side. The joy here is in the mix-up: they do daily doughnuts and vegan gluten-free muffins, sourdough skillet flatbread and cinnamon sugar brioche.

I wash it all down with a Verve Roasters coffee ($2.75) or a freshly squeezed grapefruit juice ($5.50), and my day’s off to a guaranteed sunny start – even when Santa Monica’s famous morning fog is lingering outside.

This one’s all LA, all the way...

Custom fly-fishing rods that will delight any angler

A US craftsman who produces sought-after bamboo fishing rods

Bill Oyster works from a tiny shop in the mountains of Georgia, in the United States. He is an angler and an artisan, self-taught in both skills, who crafts some 65 custom fly-fishing rods each year (examples in first picture). He’s responsible for every detail, right down to meticulously engraving the nickel-silver hardware.

“Custom work makes the rod a very personal thing, and also allows me to push my own abilities in an attempt to realise my customer’s vision,” explains Oyster. Wives, husbands and friends call to commission these special poles, which can be used to fish for everything from trout to heavier steelhead salmon.

Starting with basic information about the client’s fishing style – where the rod will be used, how often, for what kind of fish – Oyster begins the process of engineering a fly rod in the appropriate weight range that is both functional and truly beautiful. Each one starts existence as a raw stalk of bamboo cane that is split, planed down and pieced back together to form a hexagonal shape. From there it is outfitted with a top-of-the-line English Hardy reel, and an exquisite rattan grip. Finally, embellishments are added, often very personal, that take the form of deep-relief and bulino (very fine) engravings in the silver details that are specific to the client’s wishes (example in second picture). Oyster, who learned this skill from a gunsmith, takes particular pride in bringing everything from family crests to hunting scenes to favourite dogs to life.

Each rod requires between 40 and 100 hours of labour, and commissions generally take about six months, depending on the complexity and level of detail. In addition to custom orders, there are also several pre-made models available for sale, but they tend to get snapped up very quickly. The most basic is the Signature Series ($1,840) – a three-piece, extra tip version available in a range of sizes and weights. At the other end of the tricked-out spectrum is the Epic Series (from $9,049), featuring everything from a hand-engraved downlocking reel seat to bulino game scenes to a handmade and very elegant leather carrying case for the whole package.

So special are these American beauties that heads of state and anglers from around the globe vie for a place on Oyster’s waiting list (rods are made on a first-come basis and can cost up to $15,000). And what sets Bill Oyster’s fast fly rods apart is not just aesthetics, but the pleasure of the process as well; he’s cited by one and all as a delight to work with from start to finish.

Customised coats that banish the winter blues

Happycoat’s Tilla Lindig creates fun, fashionable one-off outerwear

Notting Hill-based Tilla Lindig is busy creating a collection of accessible customisable coats. After five years spent building her retail brand in the UK and Europe, she is now focusing on Happycoat, a bespoke business centred around functional, fashionable outerwear – not to mention chic capes and fitted jackets – that is crafted from exquisitely soft wool, in virtually every flattering cut and colour combination imaginable.

A visit to her design space is like a trip to a casual atelier. Raised in Nuremberg by parents in the luxury-fashion-retail industry, she worked at both Giorgio Armani and Christian Dior before launching her own line in 1999. She draws heavily on European tradition for her designs – fine tailoring and attention to detail are de rigeur – but it’s the mix of classic elements (think loden jackets, hand-finished cuffs, woven leather buttons) with just a touch of militaristic Mao thrown in for good measure that makes her pieces so versatile and timeless. All separates are made from Italian wool fabrics, and are produced in Lindig’s native Germany using fair-trade practices.

Her new bespoke process is quite simple. After you sift through a wide selection of pre-made coats in a variety of styles and fabrics (some more wintry, some double-faced, others perfect for spring’s in-between days), Lindig helps identify the shape and colour that bests suits your lifestyle. From the classic Style I (from £350) – a lightweight, unlined coat available in a variety of pastel, bright and classic tones – to the snappy Style IV (second picture, from £380), or structured Kate jacket (named after the Duchess of Cambridge, of course; from £550) in cheerful cerise and purple, the designer is happy to adapt existing models to suit individual needs. You’d like the zippy 1960s cape (first picture, from £550) in toned-down taupe? Simple closures versus bold Bavarian buttons? Lindig is happy to oblige. In addition, she offers a limited number of outerwear options for men and children, all just as stylish as those in the women’s range.

Each commission takes approximately two weeks to complete, but if it’s instant gratification you seek, many of the 40-plus ready-to-wear styles in the Happycoat collection are available online as well, with a new e-boutique opening on the site this spring. In any case, wearing a Lindig piece – especially one in a vibrant tangerine, sky blue or hot-pink hue – will help put a skip in your step for spring.

A museum shop full of marvellous miscellany

Quirky and classical gifts, with the imprimatur of an English tastemaker

If you’ve ever been to the spectacularly eclectic house-collection that is Sir John Soane’s Museum in central London, then you know it is a gem of Regency art and architecture. Its gift shop is no less wonderful, but as the part of the complex that houses it is undergoing a major renovation, the museum’s eclectic e-boutique is your best bet for finding fascinating books, objets d’art and curiosities of all kinds.

The site is clearly divided into 11 well-edited sections that make navigation a breeze. Start in the Books area, where museum director Tim Knox’s beautiful coffee-table tome, Sir John Soane’s Museum London (second picture, £24.95), offers an extensive history of the collection, complete with stunning photographs by Derry Moore. There are all kinds of paper goods – a Leporello three-dimensional cut-out card (£5.95), standard greeting cards and postcards – as well as a Piranesi notebook (8.50) for sketching.

In Kitchen & Home you’ll find a rather unexpected selection of tea towels, including one depicting the dark Mephistopheles by Eugène Delacroix (£5.50) that could certainly take the prize for most unique – if not also most ghoulish – gift. Another intriguing item is the Tea Tidy (third picture, £4.50) with an image of a skull from The Grave by Louis Schiavonetti after William Blake. While they won’t be to everyone’s taste, they are definitely original.

The real beauty here, however, lies in objects such as a plaster replica model of The Temple of Vesta at Tivoli (available in March, first picture, £1,250). This copy of Francois Fouquet’s original by Bath-based artist Timothy Richards features a glass dome and a mahogany base – and it will be delivered to your door, complete with gorgeous packaging. For the jewellery lover, the Soane site offers a unique collection of Extasia hand-pressed cameo and intaglio necklaces (£95-220) that incorporate jet, black diamond, and slate-coloured German glass, all hung on stylishly chunky chains.

It’s a treasure trove of unexpected delights – the perfect match for the museum whose name it shares.

The fine art of American farm-to-table dining online

Perfect house presents from New York’s Blue Hill restaurants

The latest offering from the talented team behind New York’s Blue Hill and Blue Hill at Stone Barns restaurants is an online emporium offering everything from delicious Hudson Valley honeys to stylish blown-glass decanters (second picture, from $285). Those always on the lookout for perfect house presents – hostess gifts, small birthday offerings for foodie friends – will be able to stockpile gifts both large and small. A bonus: all are delivered in exquisitely simple packaging.

Image: Jonathan Young

While it is noted chef and author Dan Barber who garners most of the Blue Hill press, it is his design director sister-in-law, Laureen, who has brought this e-commerce venture to life. With her background in marketing and graphic design, she is the person responsible for ensuring that the look and feel of each restaurant – not to mention the aesthetic integrity of every last tabletop piece – reflects the philosophy of the locally sourced, seasonal food that is served. She’s managed to extend the physical Blue Hill experience (and a visit to either the city or country outpost is a tasteful treat for all the senses) to this website.

The Blue Hill motto is “know thy farmer”, and a browse around the carefully curated Pantry section leaves one feeling like an informed local. There are jams (first picture, $14) both fanciful (blueberry currant) and familiar (raspberry), freshly roasted coffee beans (third picture, $13.50), and Blue Hill Granola ($8), a mix of organic spelt flakes, golden flax seeds and just a smidge of honey (from grower Fred Kirshenmann’s nearby farm).

Image: Jonathan Young

The Table section, meanwhile, holds birch-bark porcelain vases ($65-75) in varying shapes and sizes, as well as unique handmade grain plates (set of four, $120), by artist Dana Brandwein Oates. The latter cleverly incorporate the textures of wheat and spelt (courtesy of the nearby Lakeview Organic Farm) into pressed porcelain. A full set arrived beautifully nestled inside a handmade slide-top pine and birch box. Even the story behind this minimalist crate is inspiring; each one is handcrafted by the Nezinscot Guild of Turner Village, Maine, a small company that employs people with conditions such as autism.

On to the Kitchen section, where there are hand-cut and sewn linen guest towels ($32) complete with easy care instructions – a miracle! – and The Kitchen Sink Collection ($42), a sweet canvas tote featuring bottles of red-currant hand lotion and lemon-thyme dish soap. Both make perfect hostess gifts, if you can bear to part with them.

Just Back From: Dominican Republic

Just back from: Casa Colonial, Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic.

Was it your first time? Yes.

How long were you there? Six days.

Why did you go? We wanted to try something different in the Caribbean that had multiple flights daily and easy access from New York and Florida. We also wanted something for just six days, as opposed to the typical ten-day mandatory stay at holiday time. Casa Colonial was completely flexible about our length of stay.

Who were you with? My family (husband and two kids) and my parents.

What was the best tip you got before you left? My dental hygienist warned me not to go off-campus in this part of the DR. Sage advice. While not dangerous, it also wasn't too atmospheric outside of the hotel grounds.

What's the #1 tip you'd give a friend who wanted to go? Don't go off-campus, but do make a trip to the massive supermercado to score everything from snacks to Zithromax on aisle 1. The whole experience is just crazy and worth the trip. Note: You have to bring ID to buy anything with credit or debit cards. They check.

What did you do? We ate every meal outside and, in between, lounged on minimalist, tasteful loungers at the second-floor pool overlooking the ocean. This was interpersed with golf, tennis, a snorkeling trip, visits to the gym (the treadmills had CNN on loop), lots of reading, card playing, and just generally catching up with one another. Really interesting clientele at Casa Colonial — largely gay, a few older kids, and nary a person from the New York tri-state area. All in, refreshingly low-key.

Were you there for the right amount of time? Possibly a day too long. We tend to max out at five days of strong sun, but it was a great break nonetheless.

This was especially great: The service at the hotel. Everyone — from the waiters to the housekeepers to the concierge — tries really, really hard to please. Beds are made first thing in the morning; everyone smiles. Sometimes they misfire, but I'm all about an A for effort. Casa Colonial wants to keep customers happy, and the staff was terrific with my 9- and 10-year-old and worked with them on their Spanish words.

But this wasn't: Local vendors practically accost you on the beach selling everything from booze to jewelry to hair-braiding services.

Speed round of favorites:
Meal: Grilled local lobster tail in the main restaurant, Lucia.

Neighborhood to explore: N/a. Don't do it.

Thing you did: That supermarket comes pretty close. Weird, plentiful, serious local color.

Casual hangout: Lunch by the pool. Just six shaded tables with the best chopped salad I've had since the Ivy in LA.

Kodak moment: My kids on Christmas morning, opening their stockings.

One place you didn't get to visit, but wanted to: The fruit market. A massive outdoor labrynth/bazaar of fruit and vegetables. That and Ocean World, a massive, tacky water park that I'm sure my kids would've loved.

What did you bring back? Zithromax. And keychains for my kids.

Would you go back? Probably not as we like to mix it up and try new things. But Casa Colonial is an easy long weekend trip from New York City, so maybe sans kids sometime.

Any surprises? Lots of them. I had no idea about the geography/topography of the island. The sugar cane plantations were interesting to see, and I was especially struck by how massive and densely populated the island is. I was surprised that I didn't want to explore more — I usually love to shop and get out a bit —  but this trip I was fine with relaxing and planting myself by the pool (this is actually unheard of for me). Lastly, I was surprised by the friendliness of the staff who kept drinks filled, printed our boarding passes, and didn't tell on me when I let my kids come into the tiny gym with me (generally taboo).

You can't stop thinking about: That chopped salad with the fried onion rings on top. Delicious! And just eating three meals a day as a family and really talking. This so rarely happens at home.

FIND IT

Casa Colonial Beach and Spa
Playa Dorada
Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic
+1-809-320-3232

Three Days in London with the Kids

Contributing editor Christina Ohly has been traveling to London with her kids since they were infants. She knows how to mix parent- and kid-approved museums, shops, restaurants, and hotels.

LONDON – London is one of the — if not the best — cities to visit with kids. Here are highlights for all ages, palates, and interests, with South London as a base for exploring central London and the outskirts.

DAY 1 - Science and Nature

Gone are the days of exploring the Elgin Marbles at a leisurely pace, so don't even pretend. Keep your museum visits real by starting in South Kensington at the incomparable Science Museum, which is full of interactive exhibits, steam turbines, space capsules, and the most imaginative water play area ever.

Next, head down the block to the Natural History Museum, an architectural marvel in and of itself. Children will never tire of the dinosaurs, and the endless diamonds are a nice diversion for grown-ups. Refuel nearby at Wagamama, where udon noodles, soups, and the requisite "chicken tenders" are served at festive communal tables in a light, airy setting.

After a little sustenance, go into Kensington Gardens and follow signs to the Princess Diana Memorial Playground. The enclosed area is great for kids of all ages, with everything from baby swings to a massive pirate ship with rope ladders and secret hiding places. Cool off with a soft-serve cone within the playground before exploring the rest of heavenly Hyde Park by bicycle or on foot. (The English really do excel at public gardens.) Swans, geese, and ducks provide entertainment, and you can rent old-timey lawn chairs for the balance of the afternoon. If energy/attention spans allow, pop into the Serpentine Gallery mid park for a quick shot of contemporary art in a classical setting.

DAY 2 - Toys and Museums

Sometimes with kids you just need to go with it. Legoland in nearby Windsor is one such example. Your kids will love you and they will be re-energinized for all the cultural events you'll throw at them for the rest of your journey. The incredibly fun park is a hit with ages 3+, and, at just 40 minutes from London, you can pack quite a few rides, sweet treats, and general amusement into a half-day.

Once back in the city center, head to the Tower of London for its rich history of beefeaters, guillotines, dark prisons, and the Crown Jewels. It gets crowded, so visit at off-peak to avoid the masses and pre-order tickets. From here, you're across the river from the Embankment and the Tate Britain and the Tate Modern museums. Depending on the show, I've found the Modern, which is housed in an enormous former factory, is more kid-centric. The sheer spaces, enormous escalators, and colorful art installations will captivate virtually everyone, and a snack overlooking the river in the ground floor cafe is a plus.

DAY 3 - Gardens and Shops

The best parts of London for kids are parks, playgrounds, and wonderful restaurants. Very small children will enjoy a quiet romp in St. Luke's playground in Chelsea and everyone will love a tour through the Chelsea Physic Garden, one of London's oldest botanic gardens. For lunch, have wood-fired pizzas outdoors at the Chelsea Gardener if weather permits or fish and chips indoors at Tom's Kitchen at Chelsea Green. Other Chelsea highlights include the grounds of the Royal Hospital for running free and the National Army Museum, which has an interactive, indoor play space. (For more info, read the Fathom Postcard about the pensioners at the Royal Hospital.)

No trip would be complete without a visit to the sprawling toy shop spread across an entire floor at Harrod's. You'll find everything from Union Jack memorabilia to Barbies to wooden building blocks. Spend the rest of the day soaking in local, small neighborhood color: the bakeries, the butcher, the "ironmonger" (aka the hardware store). Have a light supper at Itsu, where kids delight in picking tapas-style sushi plates from a conveyor belt: chicken teriyaki skewers, sashimi, white chocolate mousse and berries. The techno-vibe makes for the perfect mix of food and theater.

BEST FAMILY HOTELS

I am no fan of central London hotels with kids (unless you're living large and want to load it up at Claridge's). I prefer one of these quiet, kid-friendly establishments with green spaces and green grocers nearby.

MyHotel Chelsea - Slightly mod, low-key, and absolutely well-placed near Chelsea Green.

The Baglioni Hotel - It overlooks Kensington Palace and Gardens which makes it perfect for families - and anyone in search of green space. The incomparably cool Princess Diana playground is just steps away, and the hotel's newly redone Natura Bisse spa makes for a Zen escape at day's end. Spacious suites and Italian warmth and hospitality are all pluses. 

Milestone Hotel - Hyde Park is your backyard when staying in one of the spacious suites and quirky, chintz-filled apartments on on Kensington High Street. It works well for families and the Stables Bar, a cozy clubhouse restaurant straight out of a Ralph Lauren ad, serves excellent Wagyu burgers with buckets of crispy fries. 

Knightsbridge Hotel - One of the Firmdale hotels on a quiet square steps from Brompton Road, Hyde Park, and Beauchamp Place. (Having a Pizza Express nearby is always a plus.)

The Berkeley - It has a rooftop pool. Enough said. And it's near Hyde Park, Harrods, and Yo Sushi! at the top of Harvey Nichols.

The Sloane Square Hotel - This one has family rooms — a rarity in the UK and Europe — where four can fit semi-comfortably. Well-situated to Peter Jones (department store where you'll inevitably end up after having forgotten some key piece of equipment) and the King's Road. Proximity to the Duke of Yorks Square is a plus.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Check out the London Guide for more hotels, restaurants, shops, and itineraries.

MAP IT

See all the locations in this story. (Google Maps)

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE

Checking In: London's New Hotels
London According to Jeremy Goring, the Queen's Hotelier
Little Black Book: NOTED's Favorite London Spots

Photos, from top: courtesy of Science Museum; courtesy of Tower of London; walden_69 / Flickr; courtesy of The Berkeley.

Around the World with Designer Tara Bernerd

The British designer on her new office in New York and where she'd like to go next.

Tara Bernerd creates cinematic, welcoming spaces with raw materials. That’s her specialty. It’s what has endeared the British designer to a growing international client base that includes the Thompson and Sixty hotel groups, Belgraves, Aspinalls, and as of next year, Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts. The former film student draws inspiration from a diverse array of sources—from Tim Burton to Luis Barragán—and from her offices in Belgravia, London’s toniest neighborhood, Bernerd oversees a growing staff of architects and designers who help realize the environments she conceives.

Bernerd’s foray into the hospitality space is no happy accident: She is the daughter of international property tycoon Elliott Bernerd, whose own investments have included the Westbury hotels, Wentworth Golf Club, and, most recently, the Philip Johnson-designed AT&T building in New York. Not the type to sail through life on her privilege, Bernerd left school at the age of 16 and worked her way into interior design via stints at British Vogue and in marketing and PR, before connecting with John Hitchcox, the cofounder of global property design firm Yoo. Working with Hitchcox and his partner, Philippe Starck, Bernerd helped to launch its boutique practice, Yoo Too, before moving on to found her eponymous firm in 2002.

Beginning as a small organization focused on private and residential work, Tara Bernerd & Partners has since grown to include hotels, yachts, restaurants, and mixed-use spaces, with projects currently under way from Hong Kong to Hollywood. Bernerd delights in the diversity of her firm’s output, including textile designs for The Rug Company and interior architecture and design for Herzog & de Meuron’s forthcoming 472-unit residential tower in Canary Wharf.

What’s next for the peripatetic Bernerd, who spends more than half the year on the road?  World hotel and residential domination, it seems, with even more aspirational-yet-approachable spaces slated for Central Park South, Shanghai, and Scandinavia in the months ahead. Later this fall she’ll open a New York office to accommodate an increasingly large U.S. market for her serene, slightly edgy environments. Surfacerecently met with Bernerd at her Hans Street headquarters to discuss the need for beautiful art and bold use of color when establishing a special sense of place, and the importance of good food, acoustics, and lighting.

You worked with Philippe Starck and developer John Hitchcox to launch Yoo Too.  How did this come to be?

Early in my career I received some press and the attention of a few people in the industry, including John Hitchcox. I went to work for him and became a partner, collaborating with Philippe on all of the design, but I was also scouting for new locations all over the world. It was an incredible time for me personally, and also in terms of what was happening in global hotel design. The mantra had always been “location, location, location,” and the focus has shifted to “location, location, design.”

You founded your eponymous firm in 2002. What spurred you on? 

It was partly instinctive and partly personal, but I am a full-on, one-way person, so doing my own company after Yoo felt like a natural progression. I didn’t sit down and write a business plan, but I found an office and made sure that I had at least one client so that I could pay the rent. We had two architects and a temp to answer phones when we got our first two projects. The first came from [founder of the Berkeley Group] Tony Pidgley, who’s one of the biggest developers in the U.K. He gave me a job redesigning an old telephone exchange. The second project came from gallerist Jay Jopling. We worked on his first Shoreditch space. I started the firm hoping that what I loved doing would look good enough for others to like it—taste is so subjective, after all. Initially we did more private, residential work, and now we’re very strong in commercial, loft buildings, towers, and projects like the one we’re doing with Herzog & de Meuron at Canary Wharf.

You studied at London Film School. How does that time inform your design practice?

Because of my training, I see everything in shot form. I storyboard all of my projects, and much like making a film, my property design projects require many different, skillful, creative people. Every hotel is a team effort between the architect, the landscaper, the chefs. Like the film business, where you have your directors, producers, and cinematographers, there is just so much to the show. You want a hotel or restaurant to look great, sure, but at the end of the day it’s got to make money. And in our case, the hotel rooms need to be filled.

Who have been your mentors or the people who inspire you?

Richard Rogers has been an amazing driving force of encouragement throughout my career. In terms of others whose work I admire and have had an impact on me: Tadao Ando for his use of raw materials, and Pierre Chareau, particularly his Maison de Verre in Paris. His use of metals, rubber flooring, and glass in the 1930s was just incredible. Tim Burton is another strong influence.

Do you have a signature style? 

People describe our work as “industrial chic,” but I don’t think we have a signature look. We are about what’s appropriate to an environment, though there are common threads throughout our work. I prefer monotone colors, concrete, metals, lacquer, and raw materials that are a bit edgy. I’m about a more handsome design rather than a pretty, girly look. A huge amount of warmth comes from our work because we layer spaces. Our vibe is strong.

Who are your clients? 

Our current projects include the Four Seasons in Fort Lauderdale, which is a combination of a resort, restaurants, and private homes. We’re working on the new Thompson Hotel in Hollywood, as well as the Russell Hotel in London for Barry Sternlicht and Starwood Capital Group, and we’re about to start projects in Hong Kong and Stockholm as well. A new project for Sixty is in the cards. In general, we have a lot of repeats because we get on well with people.

How do you approach restaurant design?

We’ve designed a few stand-alone restaurants and also ones that are part of a hotel, and in either case both acoustics and lighting are hugely important. Beyond aesthetics, however, the most important piece is the cuisine. Ideally, we know who the chef is from the outset so we know the environment we’re trying to create for the type of food to be served. It’s about working with the menus, the essence of the place, and the bar. We can do an amazing design and you can get away with a lot if the food isn’t great, but when the staff clicks, the uniforms are just right, and the music is perfect—that makes for a winning restaurant.

What has been the biggest challenge in terms of a project?

I worked with the stylish Aaron Leyland on Belgraves, and for some reason the builders put up ugly brick walls just before the opening night. I walked in and saw the bricks and declared, “We can’t open like this! It has to be sandblasted!” They were too red, too smooth, and the grout was terrible. Aaron sandblasted every wall, at great expense. Truthfully, I don’t know a project that doesn’t have a challenge.

What trends are you seeing in travel, and in the hotel space in particular? 

People want warmth, a residential feel, from hotels. I love the Edition in South Beach, and Sixty is my home in New York—they take care of me, so the people make the experience. Art is terribly important, and people like Aby Rosen have been able to bring a high level into play. I think people want simple technology. They don’t want to be shown how to use their rooms. Even if something is very modern, they want a sense of association, a lounge area to drink a coffee or have a club sandwich. And this is evolving. Hotels play an enormous role today. They’re not just where we go on holiday, or to visit cities, but they are the homes of tomorrow.

What makes a great hotel a “home of tomorrow?”

Today there are so many nomads—single people, divorcées—that hotels are a home away from home, with many people choosing to leave a case for regular stays. It’s not just about design. A great hotel has to smell good, the concierge has to be top-notch, the uniforms have to be aesthetically pleasing, and the food is important, too. It’s a big melting pot of vulnerability: Hotels are in the mega-challenge league of design because everything has to work perfectly.

Who is nailing it now?

Ilse Crawford with Ett Hem Stockholm. It’s basically a private home we can stay in. The Villa TreVille in Positano is another example of perfection. These are both 12 to 15 rooms done by people who can afford to do them as they would their own residences. Yabu Pushelberg does great hotel design work now, as does David Collins Studio in the restaurant space.

With so many far-flung projects, how do you keep your work and life in balance? 

I travel half the year, so some would say that that isn’t very balanced, but I am passionate about my work. I’m a good traveler, and I don’t get jet lag. I balance my work with nature: I hike in the mountains on the weekends, where the views are epic, and I walk my dogs. When I’m in Miami I get up early, run on the beach, dive in the ocean, and go to work. I have terrific friends and family and this helps a lot. Work trips with my team are a pleasure, so this keeps me in balance.

What’s next for you?

I really enjoy working in the U.S., and it’s why I’ve committed to opening an office in New York. I want to continue working in the U.K., Los Angeles, and Hong Kong. And who wouldn’t want to go to Cuba?

A Mallorca Sonnet

My idea of a great escape: an exquisite, boutique hotel with amazing food tucked away in a quiet, European village with nary an obnoxious tourist in site. Oh, it needs to be easily accessible — no complicated airplane connections or endless drives for my family. A tall order? Not at Gran Hotel Son Net in the mountain village of Puigpunyent just outside of Palma, Mallorca, otherwise known as my little slice of heaven.

Let's just say that Son Net had me at hola. The finca, which dates from 1672 and still has its original well and patio, is set in the Tramuntana hills and mountains a 20-minute ride from the airport. When you arrive at the 31-room villa, you feel like you're walking into a friend's house party, all warm welcomes and refreshing drinks. 

The villa has been lovingly restored using local wood, stone, and Spanish tile. My kids love the rambling gardens and architecture. The decor is old-school Mediterranean but mod: Luxe fabrics and heavy furnishings mix with contemporary pieces by David Hockney and Frank Stella.

With kids, it's all about the pool, and Son Net's is spectacular. Grown-ups seeking shelter (from the sun or from their squealing children) can opt for a minimalist cabana as kids frolic in the shallow, refreshing water (warning: summer temps are a killer). Everyone will love lunch at Gazebo, a casual patio restaurant overlooking town. The ingredients are locally sourced, and kids are welcome to explore the hotel's vegetable garden. Most impressively, the chef prepares dishes that not only expand your child's palate but are also acceptable to her palate. 

After a long day spent doing very little — you could borrow hotel bicycles to explore the surrounding area, or you could just have a massage — it will be time to hit the bar. I recommend booking a kind, competent sitter through the concierge (our was a young Spanish mother who spoke three languages and thoroughly entertained our niños) and repairing downstairs for a glass of local red wine (Priorato, Somontano, Ribera del Duero, Rioja are all wonderful). Vaulted stone ceilings, brocade curtains...it’s all very conquistador. 

You'll then head to the hotel's insanely good — but decidedly not kid-friendly — Oleum Restaurant. Ask to be seated outside for your feast of inventive takes on Mallorcan favorites, like local lobster caldereta (stew) with sopes bread. After numerous courses, you'll sleep like a baby in your sizable four-poster bed. With those perfectly pressed linens.

The ideal stay here is three days — enough time to explore the countryside, visit the nearby Parque La Reserva Aventura, go for a sail, and hit the beach for a change of scene. Any more than that, and you could easily slip into a vacation coma. You’ve been warned.  

Find It

Gran Hotel Son Net 
C/ Castillo de Sonnet s/n - 07194
Puigpunyent, Mallorca, Spain
+34-971-147-000
info@sonnet.es 

Parque La Reserva Aventura
Predio Son Net s/n
07194 Puigpunyent
Balearic Islands, Spain
+34-971-728-786 
info@lareservamallorca.com 

Summer in Watch Hill, Rhode Island

Christina Ohly has lived with her husband and two children in New York City and London, and has never been shy about shipping her crew to the far corners of the globe in search of memorable sights and tastes. So we never expected that, come summer, she's at her happiest so close to her American home in Rhode Island, the small state that delivers big.

WATCH HILL, Rhode Island – There is no place more beautiful in the summer than New England. Period, full stop. 

The quaint seaside town of Watch Hill is the ultimate in pure, awesome Americana, from outstanding displays of true prep and lighthouses to killer lobster rolls and the best homemade black raspberry ice cream (a seasonal RI speciality). Located on a peninsula on Block Island Sound and surrounded by water on all sides, Watch Hill is perfect for sailing, body surfing, and exploring the village's gorgeous "cottages" (who do they think they're fooling?) by bicycle.

WHERE TO STAY

The Ocean House recently underwent a multi-million reno and is now getting up to speed on the service front. But this place is lovely and well located old-world fun. Overlooking the beach and the picturesque village, the Ocean House is the only Relais & Chateau-esque game in town. The sweet college student staffers will happily book boat rides, fishing trip, and cool activities for kids.

A less pricey option is Watch Hill Inn on the bay. Accommodations are more like condos, and the kitchenettes make this a great choice for families, as does the proximity to the carousel and public beach.

WHAT TO EAT

Pack a picnic from the Cooked Goose and order the locals' favorite sandwich, W. H. 15, a ham, cheese, and carmelized onion treat named after a type of old sailboat found only in this area. The Goose stocks great basics like BLT with thick-cut bacon on freshly baked bread, as well as upscale offerings like lobster salad, lemon/herb cappellini, and chewy molasses and chocolate chip cookies. 

Other great bets: Aunt Carrie's for lobster in the rough: Bridge for fresh seafood, vegetarian options aplenty, and the riverfront view; and PizzaPlace Westerly for gourmet pies with shrimp and artichoke in an old converted mill.

Drinks at dusk on the enormous, sweeping porch at Ocean House are a must. You'll have upscale takes on New England faves for hors d'ouevres. The phenomenal sunsets are free.

WHERE TO PLAY

At risk of stating the obvious, go to the beach. East Beach, with its formidable surf, is the quintessential summer stop, though it's not great for kids under two. Pack a picnic, take in the views from the bluff (ah, that picture-perfect lighthouse), and stroll along the endless coast toward Weekapaug. Watch Hill's central carousel (pause for a moment of charm: It's the oldest continually operating one in the US) is old-school fun, as are milkshakes from St. Clair Annex just down the street. Walk out to Napatree Point, a half-mile long sandspit with remnants of a fort from the Spanish-American War, to ponder the passing boats and Fisher's Island in the distance.

WHAT TO SEE

If fun in the sun gets to be too much (it could happen), head indoors for a little culture. At the Mashantucket Pequot Museum, kids learn about Native peoples from hands-on exhibits, dancing, and life-size dioramas. Theatre by the Sea in Matunuck is a great place to catch a show. If you want to go farther afield, you can spend the day at WaterFire Providence, the summer river festival/exhibit 40 minutes away, or wander the nearby towns of Stonington and Wickford, Connecticut, for the quaint streets, fishing history, and delicious foodie finds. 

MAP IT

See the locations for this trip. (Google Maps)