A supremely comfortable bicycle with retro design cachet
Old-fashioned features, including wonderfully fat tyres, make the Electra bike an easy ride
Old-fashioned features, including wonderfully fat tyres, make the Electra bike an easy ride
One of the cleverest gifts I’ve received recently might just be my sea-blue Electra bike, given to me by my husband to use at the beach. It’s a vehicle of curvy charm: the shiny frame, the old-fashioned extra-fat tyres and the wide seat are a retro-design lover’s dream come true.
I use my Townie Balloon 7i EQ bike ($910) for buzzing around a small New England village, but the design makes it hugely comfortable for longer trips too. The brand’s patented Flat Foot Technology (the crank has been moved forward so it’s ahead of the seat tube) and low seat are a bonus for this cyclist d’un certain age because it means I can plant my feet firmly on the ground, without doing battle with a brakeless hipster convolution requiring backpedalling, or anything else that might lead to a wipeout. And the lightweight aluminium frame means that it isn’t the worst thing when that topple does occur (only once thus far).
While the Balloon model has seven gears, I rarely need to use more than three, such is the ease with which you can climb hills. My natural wicker front basket ($50) is a sweet add-on, a handy size for the morning papers or a towel and sunscreen.
This California-based bike brand may use old-school styling, but is right up to date when it comes to environmental awareness. It also does a line of e-bikes with intriguing sounding names like Ace of Spades Go! ($3,300) and Loft Go! ($2,800), which are meant for zipping across and around town at up to 25kph. And I’d love to own one of its Amsterdam bikes ($1,260) – preferably in a shade of aquamarine, with a jaunty bell on the handlebar.
A treasure trove of midcentury design in Stockholm
A bounteous collection of vintage Nordic furnishings – and a sprinkling of contemporary delights – put this Stockholm boutique firmly on the style map, says Christina Ohly Evans
A bounteous collection of vintage Nordic furnishings – and a sprinkling of contemporary delights – put this Stockholm boutique firmly on the style map, says Christina Ohly Evans
Stockholm’s gallery-centric Ostermalm area abounds with antiques dealers and design purveyors, but real aficionados of vintage Nordic design all know one name by heart: Modernity. The exquisitely curated shop was opened in 1998 by Andrew Duncanson, a Scot with a design retail background (who was later joined by Isaac Pineus with Duncanson), and is anything but a typically spare Scandi-chic setting. “I wanted to get away from the 50-shades-of-white Swedish norm,” says Duncanson, “so I opted for grey walls.”
Within those walls you’ll find a bounty of furniture, lighting, jewellery and decorative objects by the greats of 20th-century design, including Hans Wegner, Finn Juhl, Georg Jensen, Arne Jacobsen, Poul Hennigsen and Alvar Aalto, as well as works by lesser-known but equally accomplished artisans. While 99 per cent of the pieces are by midcentury Nordic designers, there are a few contemporary items – and Isamu Noguchi’s famous Akari paper lamps (£630) as “the Japanese aesthetic works well with the Swedish sensibility”.
The jewellery and ceramics section is especially eye-catching. Custom shelves and glass vitrines highlight dramatic pieces, such as 1960s silver collar necklaces (from £1,000) by Ibe Dahlquist for Georg Jensen, and a gold and moonstone ring (£1,889) by Swedish maker Sigurd Persson, to dazzling effect. Delicate ceramic and porcelain objects are a passion for Duncanson, whose own Wilhelm Kåge ceramic sculpture and a glass vessel by Tapio Wirkkala were among the store’s first sales. Current highlights include ethereal, organic vases (from £3,500) by sought-after contemporary Italian maker Sandra Davolio; a 1980s celadon-glazed teapot (£598) by Signe Persson Melin for Rörstrand; and a rare, signed Axel Salto for Royal Copenhagen vessel (£50,000) from the 1950s.
Duncanson specialises in provenance: a 1949 Finn Juhl for Niels Vodder sculptural Chieftain armchair (£165,000) in teak and leather is “in mint condition, which is almost impossible to find”; and an iconic Poul Hennigsen Question Mark floor lamp (£22,000) from the 1930s is a rare find. Among Modernity’s most prized offerings is a one-of-a-kind Brazilian rosewood and brass sideboard (£35,000) designed by Ernst Kühn in 1935; it contrasts beautifully with a sleek, customisable bar cabinet (to order, from £30,000) by Ilse Crawford.
An array of 1930s textiles – hand-knotted kilims (from £15,000) by Märta Måås-Fjetterström; a leather and fabric 1950s tapestry (£2,917) by Sten Kauppi – lend the showroom a homely feel. Candlesticks (£533) by Swedish maker Stig Lindberg; a Finnish leaded-glass vase (£2,917) by Gunnel Nyman for Nuutajärvi Notsjö; and sculptural wooden bowls (from £300) by Jonny Mattsson from the 1950s round out the design delights.
With a client base that ranges from MoMA and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art to “people who just come in and want to buy something small and beautiful”, Duncanson buys with a breadth of products in mind. “With pieces ranging from £1,000 to £250,000, the whole concept is to offer an experience. Every object has a story to tell, and I really feel like each one ultimately finds its right home.”
The Aesthete: Joseph Dirand talks personal taste
Architect and interior designer Joseph Dirand’s elegant modernist style has built an illustrious global portfolio that spans restaurants and boutiques, private homes and hotels
Architect and interior designer Joseph Dirand’s elegant modernist style has built an illustrious global portfolio that spans restaurants and boutiques, private homes and hotels
My personal style signifiers are Acne’s North jeans, which suit my skinny frame, and classic Nike trainers that work well with the jeans. I prefer a simple aesthetic, so I wear both in shades of grey, black and blue. From £170; acnestudios.com. From £61.95; nike.com.
The last thing I bought and loved was a Black Mirror Painting by Lawrence Carroll that is reminiscent of the arte povera movement of the 1960s. I love the purity of this abstract oil-on-plywood piece, which now hangs in a prominent place in my living room. Galerie Karsten Greve, 5 Rue Debelleyme, 75003 Paris (+331-4277 1937; galerie-karsten-greve.com).
And the thing I’m eyeing next is a cruise to Antarctica. I love travelling to really remote places such as Patagonia, or any desert, so it’s my dream destination – I am planning a trip for next winter.
The last thing I added to my wardrobe was a cashmere/cotton long-sleeve T-shirt by Parisian brand Majestic Filatures. It is practical, soft and warm for the cooler months. I’ve also rediscovered JM Weston loafers, handmade in Limoges; I bought my first pair 25 years ago. The light-soled Moc style in blue suede is elegant and incredibly comfortable. £465; jmweston.com. €100; majesticfilatures.com.
A recent “find” is Bellechasse 29 Galerie, started by gallerist Philippe Sinceux and designer and antiques dealer Alain Demachy. They stock an eclectic range of antiques and decorative objects, from 19th-century Scandinavian to French art deco – things that don’t belong together, but somehow just work. I have found some beautiful mirrors and vases there. 29 Rue de Bellechasse, 75007 Paris (+331-4533 1672; bellechasse29.fr).
An object I would never part with is a pair of bespoke tortoiseshell sunglasses from Maison Bonnet – maker of IM Pei’s and Le Corbusier’s glasses – given to me for my 40th birthday. They fit my face perfectly. 5 Rue des Petits Champs, 75001 Paris (+331‑4296 4635; maisonbonnet.com).
The site that inspires me is Villa Malaparte on Capri. I love contemporary structures and this one is exemplary. Although built in the 1930s, it still feels current. The relationship of the minimalist house to the beautiful green landscape and the contrast between the reddish building and the blue sea are pure genius.
The grooming product I’m never without is A Rose By Any Other Name Body Cleanser by Aesop. I like everything about this natural, gentle product, including the minimalist packaging. $25 for 6.8oz; aesop.com.
An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is the American Southwest. My wife Anne-Sophie and I did a 6,000km road trip through 10 national parks, including Zion, Yellowstone and the Grand Canyon. The landscapes, colours and sunsets were magnificent, as was our stay at Amangiri on Lake Powell in Utah – the perfect, relaxing end to our trek. From $1,900; +1435-675 3999; aman.com.
The last meal that truly impressed me was at Yui Edomae Sushi, a tiny Japanese haute cuisine spot in Las Vegas. The omakase [chef’s choice] menu was spectacular. Every dish, from my favourite toro [tuna belly] to the sea urchin, lobster and wagyu beef, was prepared with a magical twist. 3460 Arville St, Las Vegas, NV 89102 (+1702-202 2408; yuisushi.com).
My favourite space in my house is the entryway to our high-ceilinged 17th-century apartment in Paris, because it is both classical and warm. The Marmorino stucco walls are painted a dark grey and the conceptual artwork by Jannis Kounellis that hangs near the front door is really welcoming – it has a formal yet emotional beauty.
My favourite websites include Lecollectionist.com for holiday home rentals and Mrandmrssmith.com for travel tips. I also like the auction site Piasa.fr for art and design inspiration.
High-tech rowing kit with serious pedigree
Scull & Sweep offers all the equipment required for days spent on the water
Scull & Sweep offers all the equipment required for days spent on the water
Rowing calls for kit that’s not only windproof and waterproof, but smart too. New e-tailer Scull & Sweep has just such a cache of stylish gear, thanks to an impeccable pedigree: the site’s founders are Phil Russo, former global creative director for US shoemaker Cole Haan, and industrial designer Nancy Lin, who has Fila and Converse on her CV, while the chairman and CEO is Howard Winklevoss – founder of RowAmerica and father of rowing legends Cameron and Tyler.
For action on the water, standouts include the Regatta Training jacket (from $120) in neon yellow or orange that’s water resistant, lightweight and designed to reduce friction, and the Half-Zip Training top ($66), with a wind collar. Cool cotton caps ($25) come emblazoned with the brand’s skull and crossed oars logo, while durable, lightweight duffel bags ($175) are great for carrying the whole kit and caboodle, from cold-morning beanies ($25) and jazzy black and neon-yellow Rowing Life Training socks ($15) to Sore No More rubber seat pads ($40) and water bottles (from $5).
For rowing-club members, Scull & Sweep offers performance-focused reworkings of the classic blazer. The men’s Regatta blazer ($275) is made of a comfortable two-way stretch fabric in rich navy-black with contrasting white lapel piping, and so works both as outerwear for inclement weather and as a smart club jacket. The slimmer-silhouetted women’s version (also $275) has a pop of colour on the folding cuffs. Both can be customised with club logos.
For Henley or Harvard alumni – or simply those with romantic notions of university regattas – Scull & Sweep offers a prime piece of escapism. Whether one’s passion is sculling – two-oared rowing – or sweeping with just one oar, or simply working out with an indoor machine, this site offers all the equipment required.
Essentialist, The Bahamas, Island Idylls
Why go now? For a completely relaxing vacation with no big brand hotels, golf courses or spas, look no further than this part of the Bahamas….
Why go now? For a completely relaxing vacation with no big brand hotels, golf courses or spas, look no further than this part of the Bahamas...
Located just 60 miles from Nassau and 200 miles off the coast of Florida, Harbour Island is a magical three-mile long escape full of pastel Colonial cottages and perfectly pristine, pink coral sand beaches. With a handful of stylish, bijoux hotels and restaurants offering Bahamian specialties ranging from fresh conch to grouper to the local sweet lobster, Harbour Island is the perfect place for those in search of quiet, beach-filled days and starry, laid-back nights.
Where The Bahamas
Quick Quote $900 per day
Best Season winter and spring
Thinking of…romance, relaxation, style
WHERE TO STAY
Set on the island’s 3-mile stretch of fine pink sand, The Dunmore features one-bedroom cottages and suites—each adjoining so that they work well for families. The rooms—with cheery names like Pink North and South—are beachy-chic with lots of rattan and the signature Dunmore color palette of white and orange. Standout amenities include a pool and sweet pavilion that look like something out of a Slim Aarons photograph circa 1960.
“Harbour Island is just small enough, just low key enough and ever so slightly hard to get to which means that the people you’ll encounter understand just how special the place is. Nothing is fancy, yet everything has a casual chic vibe - it’s an aesthete’s paradise!”
The Ocean View Club is a 12-room, midcentury-influenced enclave set on the pink sand beach. Each of the rooms features a slate plaque outside the door bearing the occupant’s name, and the feeling here is one of an intimate house party. The Landing, a 12-room boutique hotel set on a property that dates back to 1800, has a slightly Balinese/Colonial vibe with a destination-worthy restaurant. The pink sand beach is just a 5-minute walk away and the hotel has a lovely pool. The elegant rooms were designed by India Hicks. The Rock House is a white-washed, 10-room hotel with a hidden pool and cabanas that are suitable for guests 18 years and older. Each room is individually decorated and many have private adjacent cabana’s and some have private decks.
WHERE TO EAT
The Dunmore restaurant is the best bet for a leisurely lunch on the see-and-be-seen patio. Choose from farro and kale salads, grilled fish of the day, fish tacos and new twists on the classic Cobb salad.Queen Conch is an authentic, cheap spot for “cracked” fried conch as well as ceviche and conch chowder by the harbor front on Bay Street. Ask to sit by the back pool at The Rock House Restaurant and you're transported to Marrakech, complete with glass lanterns and little hidden nooks. Standouts include the seafood, conch, and the signature “hokey pokey” mochi ice cream dessert. Not for kids under 12. Davine wine store has long been the go-to for fine vintages, but this year has seen the addition of a delicious sushi restaurant by night. Choose from freshly caught tuna sashimi, black miso cod, and starters that are perfect for sharing.
WHAT TO DO
Explore the island by golf cart; Snorkeling, diving, and deep sea fishing excursions are among the more popular offerings. An Expedition to the Glass Window, aka the nexus of the Caribbean Sea and Atlantic Ocean where there's a small hole that allows some of the wash to pass through to the soft side especially at high tide also a magical nearby cave that forms a geyser whenever a particularly powerful wave crashes in. Shop at The Blue Rooster, a quaint blue and white island cottage dating from 1840, which is the place for fabulous caftans, jewelry, sandals and woven straw hats and purses and The Sugar Mill, India Hicks' emporium full of dresses, beachy beads, house presents, etc. is a study in muted chic colors.
DETOUR TO KAMALAME CAY
Just off Andros’ mainland, this 96-acre sanctuary has been owned by the Hew family for the past 23 years and is one of the best places on earth to truly relax and fully check out. This magical oasis is all about good food, a welcoming, inclusive vibe, and casual beach living—you need only pack a bathing suit and a sarong for leisurely lunches or tiki torch-lit nighttime celebrations. The 27 villas spread across the The Kamalame Cay Hotel are high-ceilinged and spacious, and all feature canopy beds with a West Indies vibe. These rooms are designed for rest and rejuvenation, so there are no televisions, but stereos, Nespresso machines, and golf carts are all complimentary amenities. Helpful staff will organize any outings from snorkeling and diving to fly fishing and sailing.
Christina Ohly Evans is a New York-based journalist and the US Correspondent for the Financial Times magazine, How to spend it where she covers travel, architecture, design and fashion. She is also a Contributor to Condé Nast Traveler and serves as Editor at Large for travel and design magazine, SURFACE. Christina has lived between the UK and the US for the past 25 years, and currently resides with her husband and two teenagers on Manhattan’s Upper West Side.
Now Do This: Best Travel Deals, Steals & News 2017
This is the 2017 edition of Now Do This, our monthly compendium of timely travel deals and special offers. The current edition is here.
Updated 12/20/17:
If you forgot to make year-end holiday plans, we found a few options still left. Where is Team Fathom spending their holidays? It's a mix. Half of us are in Australia, Singapore, San Miguel de Allende, and Peru; half of us are staying home and catching up on piles of novels, which is itself its own vacation. Whatever you do, have a great one.
TRIPS TO BOOK
Spain: Nestled among Spain's Rhonda mountains is the extremely dreamy La Donaira, an eco-certified horse farm with impeccable design details. The serene nine-room resort has five deluxe accommodations available over Christmas. Rates are 400€ per person per night and include all breakfasts, special holiday lunches and dinners, drinks and snacks in between meals, bicycles (cycling is big here) and the spa (indoor swimming pool, sauna, Turkish bath).
London and Paris: Paris Perfect, the apartment rental company we've covered before, and their UK counterpart London Perfect have deals for up to 25% off for Christmas and New Year's stays. Check Google Flights for the cheapest airfare, and you're off.
Rome: Get the new year off to an Eternal City start at Baglioni Hotel Regina. The NYE gala party will include live jazz, a big Italian dinner with big Italian drinks, a magic show, and a DJ after midnight. The three-night stay in a deluxe room starts at 2,850€. Email reservations.reginaroma@baglionihotels.com to book.
Worldwide with Kimpton: Beginning at 12 a.m. EST on New Year's Day, would-be guests at Viceroy hotels will have 72 hours to book discounts from 30% or more on properties in LA, SF, NY (45% on Viceroy Central Park), Chicago, Riviera Maya, and Abu Dhabi. Ski bums and snowbirds can take 20% off hotels in Snowmass and Saint Lucia.
Hampsire, England: Fancy a wintry jaunt to the English countryside? The Pig at Brockenhurst is offering a winter treat: you, plus one, on a midweek stay with breakfast and a souvenir bottle of house vino, for just £139. Valid January-February 2018, excluding hols, as Brits like to call them.
Saanenland, Switzerland: For those who want to enjoy the snow without actually playing in it, glam ski hideaway Gstaad Palace has a new offering called Between Heaven and Earth — lunch by helicopter over the Matterhorn, one of the highest mountains in the Alps.
WHERE WE’VE BEEN
I'm just back from the Bahamas, where I stayed at the new Baha Mar, a mega resort with a Grand Hyatt, a very chic SLS, and a soon-to-open Rosewood Hotel. On-site were countless pools, a tasty conch shack, and a big casino where I met killer lady dealers. But I was most impressed by a tour of studios and gallery of The Current, the hotel's curated program dedicated to Bahamian art and culture, led by local artist Steffon Grant. Quiet Harbour Island was more my speed, and I had a hard time leaving Bahama House, the new eleven-room compound from Eleven Experiences. I'll be back: I didn't drink enough mango daiquiris at Sip Sip, the legendary lunch restaurant. — Pavia, CEO
Earlier this month, I spent the most visually satisfying day in southern Connecticut, where I walked the rolling hills of Grace Farms, enjoyed a long lunch at the festively decorated Terrain, and toured The Inn at GrayBarns on the Silvermine River, followed by drinks at the cozy new restaurant. – Berit, editor
I spent early December in the French Alps (they're already covered in snow) for the grand opening of oh-so-stylish Club Med Grand Massif Samoëns Morillon. I hadn't done the all-inclusive thing since I was a kid, but it made my trip so, so easy, which was especially gratifying during this crazy time of year. I'm still pretty sore, but not sure if it's from all-day skiing or all-night dancing. – Kim, contributing writer
HOTEL INTEL
Last week we rounded up our top hotel openings of late 2017, including a new luxury tented safari camp in Sri Lanka, a stylish boutique hotel in Copenhagen, and a neo-gothic castle in the Irish countryside. It’s time to start planning your 2018 vacations.
Tennessee's most luxurious hotel, Blackberry Farm, has broken ground on a new property called Blackberry Mountain. Set among 5,200 acres of wild land, the hotel will fuse the fine dining they're already famous for and modern comforts with a rustic and adventurous mountain setting. The hotel is scheduled to open in February 2019, and we can't wait.
Updated 11/15/17:
TRIPS TO BOOK
Zambia: Spend your holidays in one of Africa’s last unspoiled wilderness regions. The Bushcamp Company is offering 30% off six-night stays at the award-winning Mfuwe Lodge as well as the recently renovated Kapamba and Zungulila Bushcamps. Priced at $2,100 per person and valid from December 1, 2017 - January 15, 2018. Mention “festive offer” at checkout.
Brooklyn, New York: Cook Space is a gorgeous and approachable culinary school offering an array of classes that range from dim sum and Vietnamese street food to Ayurvedic cooking. Receive a 15% discount when you signup for a class on Black Friday or Cyber Monday by using the codes BLACKFRIDAY2017 and CYBERMONDAY2017, respectively.
British Virgin Islands: Looking for a warm way to recover from Thanksgiving with the family? Head to the Caribbean for the Anegada Lobster Festival on November 25 and November 26th. (Yes, the Caribbean is open! And they want us to all go back!)
North Fork, New York: Looking for romance? Cozy up with your nearest and dearest at the classic-meets-modern Sound View, a renovated motel in Greenport. The secluded seaside resort is offering a winter package that includes a romantic meal for two at The Halyard, plus four bottles of local wine. Rates start at $340, with a two-night minimum.
Charleston, South Carolina: Bookmark this Cyber Monday sale: Well-heeled travelers can save 25% off their stay at The Spectator Hotel between December 1, 2017 - August 31, 2018. Offer available from November 27 - December 1, 2017.
Borneo: The Great Projects (who we've covered before on Fathom) are offering their oragnutan voluntourism trip in Borneo at 15% off if booked by November 30. Check out the earnest promo video they made about volunteering to see lots of cute monkey business.
New York, New York: Reasons to visit The Whitby hotel this holiday season: a Thanksgiving-themed package, holiday wreath-making class with master florist Lewis Miller, Sunday movie club with seasonal classics like It’s a Wonderful Life and Home Alone 2, and a special New Year’s Eve evening.
Singapore: This fall marked the opening of the first Andaz hotel in Southeast Asia. Conveniently located just 20 minutes from Changi airport, Andaz Singapore is having a 20% off sale on standard rate room bookings through January 31, 2018.
WHERE WE’VE BEEN
I just returned from the Caribbean Wine and Food Festival in Turks and Caicos, where the spirit of endurance and recovery was both touching and strong. I stayed at Grace Bay Club — one of my favorites — and toured The Residences, their gorgeous new five-bedroom villas, which come with a pool, a private chef, and a secluded white-sand beach. (I so want to come back with a gang...) The final dinner of the festival was held at The Shore Club, the swank new sister property of The Palms, which has one of the prettiest spas I've ever seen. - Pavia, CEO
On a recent fall photo walk around Hudson, New York, I crossed these places off my upstate wish list: restaurant and boardroom Wm Farmers & Sons, home decor boutique Hawkins, and This Old Hudson, a studio space and weekend lodging option from the creative agency Zio & Sons, who just released a very stylish Hudson-inspired camera bag in collaboration with ONA. – Daniel, editor
HOTEL INTEL
Drum roll please: Aman Resorts has announced their next city destination will be New York City. Scheduled to open in 2020, the Jean-Michel Gathy-designed 83-room hotel will occupy the iconic Crown Building overlooking Central Park.
COMO Hotels and Resorts is opening a new oceanside retreat. COMO Echo Beach is slated to open in February in Canggu, a quaint coastal village with a six-mile beach that boasts some of Bali’s best surf breaks.
Later this winter, Collective Retreats, the pop-up travel company with outposts in Vail, Yellowstone, and Hudson Valley, will open Collective Hill Country, a Retreat at Montesino Ranch. Located on 225 acres of ranch and organic farmland, the Wimberly, Texas glamping site will have 12 tents outfitted in plush beds with 1,550-thread-count Egyptian cotton linens and “farm-to-flame” dining.
Updated 10/18/17:
TRIPS TO BOOK
Tel Aviv: Hotel Montefiore is hosting Michelin-star chef Bo Bech of Geist Restaurant in Copenhagen as part of this year’s Amex Round Tables event in Tel Aviv, November 12-17.
Hollywood, Florida: The Diplomat Beach Resort, the iconic Florida hotel fifteen minutes south of Fort Lauderdale airport, has just completed a stylish and fun $100 million renovation. Consider it a family-friendly, laid-back alternative to South Beach.
India: Holiday in style with a spectacular Abercrombie & Kent nine-day tour of India that includes two visits to the Taj Mahal (sunrise and sunset) and a sail on the shimmering Lake Pichola. Prices from $8,995 per person.
Papua New Guinea: Try your hand at island survival with Oceana Expeditions Kabakon Survivor experience. Guests are dropped off on a secluded island and left to fend for themselves (with a little help, of course).
Puglia, Italy: Dreaming about opening your own boutique hotel? Here’s your chance. Pre-book your stay at Amberlair, a historic villa surrounded by olive trees and vineyards that is crowdsourcing funding to meet their 2020 opening date.
Europe: Cross the continent the scenic way. Eurail is having a 20 percent off sale for train passes purchased through December, including Global Pass (good in 28 countries), Select Pass (2-4 bordering countries), and One Country Pass (choose from 22).
Catskill Mountains, New York: Reasons to visit Scribner's Lodge this fall: Yoga for Bad People and fly fishing with Esopus Creel (10/27-29), bushwhacking (11/4), and a stay-three-nights-for-the-price-of-two weekday special.
Big Sur, California: Highway One is open! After a massive landslide wiped out a section of the road, the iconic route on the Cali coast is welcoming cars once again. Quick, make a reservation for Post Ranch Inn.
WHERE WE’VE BEEN
Great rainy day hang: Sir Adam, a new Design Hotels property in Amsterdam Noord. It has hearty burgers, games, 'zines, huge floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the river, and a rock-and-roll vibe. Jump on the ferry for literally one minute and you're at Central Station. – Jeralyn, editorial director
I’m still thinking about my long weekend at São Lourenço do Barrocal, a stylish family-run farm estate in Portugal’s Alentejo region. I spent my days reading by the pool, dining on farm-fresh cuisine, and indulging in treatments at the Susanne Kaufmann Spa. – Berit, senior editor
In Marrakech for the Pure travel show, I stayed at three great hotels. Opulent Hotel Selman outside the city has a pool that goes on forever and a dazzling equestrian program. In the medina, Villa des Orangers delivers understated luxury at its finest (and has a cute resident turtle!), while La Sultana is a labyrinth of sumptuous connecting riads. I ate so well at all of them. – Pavia, CEO
While in Marrakech, Jeralyn and I attended a preview of the stunning new Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech, adjacent to Jardin Majorelle. Along with Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris, it's one of two new institutions dedicated to the designer who so loved Morocco. – Pavia, CEO
One of the most memorable experiences from a recent day in Madrid was walking through El Matadero, a former municipal slaughterhouse-turned-vibrant multidisciplinary art center. A design center, theater, cinema, cafe, multiple gallery spaces, and plenty of beautiful public space are set on what used to be a gruesome and miserable plot of land. The juxtaposition is sort of like art in itself. – Daniel, editor
HOTEL INTEL
Considering Ghent, Belgium, for our next Euro escape, so we can book a stay at 1898 The Post, a stunning neo-gothic post office-turned-boutique hotel.
Relais Christine, a Fathom Favorite in Paris, has just finished a chic renovation by designer Laura Gonzalez. A Guerlain spa will open this month.
This month marks the opening of Dave, a new affordable boutique hotel with a fun-loving attitude in the heart of Tel Aviv.
Classic Americana is a nice weekend aesthetic. Try it on in spring 2018, when the Blackburn Inn opens in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia.
Updated 8/16/17:
TRIPS TO BOOK
Paris and London: Need an excuse for a last-minute city break? Perfect Experiences, the luxury apartment rental and concierge service, is offering up to 30 percent on stays of up to five nights or more through September 25, 2017.
Big Sur, California: Take to the skies with a chopper ride over one of the USA's most stunning landscapes. While Highway 1 is undergoing repairs, the iconic southern route to Big Sur is accessible to guests of Post Ranch Inn via helicopter from Hearst Castle Pergola in San Simeon, California. The Hearst Castle helicopter package is available through October 7, 2017.
Scandinavia: Go see what all the fuss is about in Copenhagen, Stockholm, and Oslo. Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) is having a big sale, with deals from $499 round-trip for travel between their seven US gateways and Europe from October 4 and May 31. Don't wait: The sale ends August 24.
Cartagena: If you haven't been to Colombia yet, here's a great reason to head down. Our pals at Skylark scored a great airfare-plus-hotel deal at the chic and charming Tcherassi Hotel. (You'll have to join Skylark to get the rates.)
Marfa, Texas: For Burning Man vibes in the West Texas desert, head to the 12th annual Trans-Pecos Festival of Music + Love. The communal, nomadic campground concept (guests sleep in vintage trailers, Sioux-style tepees, yurts, and safari tents) runs from September 28 to October 1, 2017.
Chesapeake Bay, Maryland: Classic car aficionados will want to head to Inn at Perry Cabin by Belmond from September 21-26 for the return of the Concours d'Elgance. The hotel is celebrating the three-day event with a special package that includes accommodations, champagne, and VIP tickets.
Asia: If you've got a spare $64,888 in a cupboard somewhere, consider Remote Land's 17-day, Aman Hotels journey through Asia. Sixteen people will fly private jet and hotel-hop from China to Bhutan to India to Sri Lanka from October 8-24. If you want even more, the 21-day trip in April includes Vietnam, Montenegro, and Japan.
Southeast Asia: Another reason to fly east in the spring: May is the kickoff for planting season in Cambodia and Vietnam. Get your fill of lush tropical landscapes on an Aqua Expeditions Mekong River cruise during "green season." Book now to take advantage of the special summer rate of 30 percent off departures between May 1-July 27, 2018.
WHERE WE'VE BEEN
I went on a grand hotel tour in London last July. In brief: I spent opening night at Nobu Hotel Shoreditch, the chain's first standalone hotel, where I loved the calm Zen vibe and the brass fittings in the bathroom (really! they were gorgeous!). I toured the don't-call-it-a-Soho-House Ned and tried to count the 400 restaurants in the former bank building (kidding, though barely). I previewed the trippy Mandrake, which has the best multi-beast taxidermied kangaroo-deer-peacock I've ever seen, as well as a beautiful atrium with hanging vines. I found Flemings Mayfair to be as great as Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly says it is. And I had my best meal of the trip at chef Ollie Dabbous's restaurant at super charming Henrietta Hotel in Covent Garden. That is all. – Pavia, CEO
I have a long list of cute Hudson Valley B&Bs to check out, but had a helluva time finding one that allows kids. One of our 24 Best Travel Blogs & Websites, And North, tipped me off to Audrey's Farmhouse, a very cozy, 280-year-old farmhouse in Wallkill, run by a cool couple who outfitted five bedrooms and a cottage with chic furniture, Aesop toiletries, coffee table books, and taxidermy. They make a killer breakfast, converted a pool into a natural swimming hole (with frogs!) and set up a few hammocks, walking paths, and a fire pit in their big backyard. Looking forward to going back once snow falls. – Jeralyn, editorial director
I checked into to the recently opened Hotel RL, a budget-friendly property on the border of Bushwick and Bed-Stuy with a charming back garden, decent lobby bar, and community-oriented performance space. I'm glad that more boutique hotels are popping up in Brooklyn, especially outside Williamsburg, though this one felt more like a step above a hostel than anything else. Still, being able to earn a free night stay by donating to Project Wake Up Call, the hotel's partner philanthropic initiative, is a nice way to book an affordable room in the heart of Brooklyn. – Daniel, editor
HOTEL INTEL
We've got our eye on the late August arrival of Proper Hotel San Francisco, a new hotel concept from former Viceroy Hotels CEO Brad Korzen and his design superstar wife Kelly Wearstler. Also in the pipeline are outposts in Hollywood, Downtown LA, Austin, and Santa Monica.
Later this month, Verride Palacio Santa Catarina, an 18th-century Portuguese palace-turned-hotel will be making its debut in the heart of Lisbon.
Renowned Danish ballet dancer Alexander Kølpin is behind the fall opening of Sanders, a stunning 54-room boutique hotel in Copenhagen's historic center.
Edition Hotels is making a big commitment to Tokyo. Come 2020, the Ian Schrager-designed boutique will open not one, but two new properties.
Updated 7/18/17:
How can you go on safari without using a year's worth of vacation days? Nomad Tanzania's Streamlined Safari is a good option. In six days, you'll see a Discovery Channel checklist: the Serengeti plains, the Ngorongoro crater, a Masaai tribe, and, of course, amazing wildlife. It's available year-round, but if you want to see the Great Migration, go between June and November. Rates begin at $5,283.
It's not too late to book a trip to see this summer's total solar eclipse — the first in decades. On August 21, 2017, the newly opened Anvil Hotel in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, will host a jam-packed day of fun events, including a moon-flow yoga class, local bands, and a tailgate lunch. Individual tickets are $375 and can be reserved by calling the hotel directly, or come for a four-night stay, which starts at $1,145.
At LE Miami last month, we learned about La Donaira, a gorgeous eco-minded retreat in southern Spain. From August 18-22, they're hosting their first Pause Festival, five days of concerts, yoga,workshops, tapas, and vino. The big idea? To connect by disconnecting. Sounds like an excellent excuse to go see it all firsthand.
Dreaming of Iceland? The Nordic country's affordable air carrier, Wow Air, has launched a new route connecting Chicago's O'Hare (ORD) to Keflavík (KEF). One-way fares start at $150.
Start planning your trip to the biggest balloon fiesta in the world, the 46th Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta, which takes place October 7-15, 2017, in Albuquerque, New Mexico. Check out the daily schedule of events.
If you're looking for a summer steal, consider a last-minute getaway to Cabo San Lucas, Mexico, where you can save 30 percent on luxury villas and residences at Esperanza, an Auberge Resort.
Enjoy summer in Amsterdam like the Dutch do. Conservatorium, a Fathom Favorite hotel, is offering a Welcome to Holland package, which includes a private cycling tour, canal boat ride, and a picnic in Vondelpark through September 17, 2017. Rates start at €566.50 and require a two-night stay.
The beautifully renovated Pulitzer Amsterdam is conducting a little VIP action during the annual Grachtenfestival, August's ten-day classical music showcase for emerging and established talent. Guests of the hotel can enjoy cocktails, bites, and concerts in the inner garden (8/13 and 8/16), not to mention incredible seats for The Pulitzer Concert, which is staged on pontoons floating on the water directly in front of the hotel. Really get into the spirit by booking the Music Collector's Suite, a two-room suite complete with a collection of vinyl, a vintage record player, and instruments.
If you want help planning any of these trips, email us at travel@fathomaway.com to book through the Fathom Travel Desk.
Updated 4/28/17:
Want to show mom Mother's Day love? Take her away. 21C, our favorite museum-cum-hotel in Lexington, Kentucky, is offering a Renew, Refresh, Relax package for an overnight stay in corner room, $100 spa credit, breakfast, and a Malin + Goetz gift bag.
One for the family: Memorial Day weekend at Mohonk Mountain House in upstate New York. The agenda includes A Jelly Bean Field Day and a magic show for the littles, tomahawk throwing and archery for the apathetic teens.
It's Great Migration season though Serengeti National Park in Tanzania, and to celebrate the arrival of the zebras (by the hudreds of thousands!) and widebeests (a million of 'em!), Four Seasons Safari Lodge Serengeti is giving guests the fourth night free.
Do you do that thing where you go on vacation and find yourself planning your next vacation? We do, too. The folks at Baglioni Resort Cala del Porto, a fantastic Tuscan hotel that we visited last year, will give guests who go to Italy two free nights at their sister hotel Baglioni Resort Maldives. Yes, you'll be thanking your July vacation in January.
Troutbeck Is (Once Again) New York City's Perfect Retreat
The just-opened Troutbeck hotel is a unique Hudson Valley hideaway that’s at once historic, low-key, and luxurious. Christina Ohly takes a look around.
The just-opened Troutbeck hotel is a unique Hudson Valley hideaway that’s at once historic, low-key, and luxurious. Christina Ohly takes a look around.
AMENIA, New York — All the cool kids are flocking to the Hudson Valley — and for good reason. They’re drawn to the lush landscape, the fine cuisine, and the lack of traffic and pretense. So it has always puzzled me why there are so few — if any — really lovely, top-notch places to stay around here.
The scene has just changed for the better with the opening of the re-envisioned Troutbeck, a 250 year-old inn-cum-gathering spot in Amenia that has played host to Ralph Waldo Emerson, Henry David Thoreau, Mark Twain, Ernest Hemmingway, Governor Teddy Roosevelt, and such giants of the civil liberties movement as Sinclair Lewis, W.E.B. Du Bois, Thurgood Marshall, and Langston Hughes.
You’re swept up in the history of the place from the approach: a glorious lawn leading to a massive slate-covered Manor House. The building has seventeen highly individualized rooms — some sprawling suites, some intimate doubles that are perfect for a one-night escape. They were designed by Alexandra Champalimaud, whose storied hotel credits include The Hotel Bel-Air and The Carlyle. But this project is personal: Not only is she a nearby resident, but her son Anthony Champalimaud is the hotelier running the luxurious compound.
Troutbeck is personal for me, too, as my mother lives in the area. I initially came for lunch, having heard that the chef from Fish & Game, a wonderful Dutchess County restaurant, had landed here.
I was beyond impressed by the food and the ambience. What started as a quest for a simple salad and sandwich led to a leisurely lunch with Anthony, who spent hours telling me incredible stories of Troutbeck’s past and showing me around the 45-acre property, including the rooms at the separate Century House. Cottages, which are slated to open next summer, will no doubt appeal to discerning travelers who love their privacy.
BOOK IT
Rates change seasonally and typically range from $225-$900 depending on room type. Click here for reservations.
Checking In
Location
The Dutchess County property is just two easy hours from New York City on border of Litchfield County, Connecticut. The setting is ideal throughout the seasons: Hiking, biking, snowshoeing, reading by a roaring fire, and swimming in the pool in summer are just a few of the activities on offer.
Hotel Style
The current owners — a consortium of area residents who prefer to stay under the radar — have preserved the rich roots of Troutbeck while updating it for today’s tasteful (and demanding) traveler. The original slate tiles remain on the exterior of the Manor House, but interiors have been lightened to create warm, minimalist, homey spaces. The guest rooms are highly individualized and honor the original woodwork, windows, and quirky configurations, but have been updated with LCD TVs, Tivoli Audio Bluetooth everything, and Frette linens that making lying in a must.
This Place Is Perfect For
Couples looking for a weekend escape, anyone looking to gather a group of friends for the ultimate and intimate house party, and families with older children who seek a dose of nature and maybe skiing at nearby Mohawk Mountain. Troutbeck is also perfect for history buffs and, come to think of it, anyone looking to write their next, great novel.
What’s on Site
The smart owners have thought of virtually everything a picky Manhattanite might need, and gear is plentiful supply. No need to pack snowshoes, tennis rackets, yoga mats, children’s toys, or even chic Kenyan Kikoy towels for swaddling post-swim. It’s all here.
The food is no afterthought and is in plentiful supply. The spacious main restaurant seats 76 and serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Seating options include cozy booths, an inviting farm table for twelve in front the fireplace, and an outdoor deck for casual suppers under the stars. It has become a magnet for locals, so be sure to book ahead. The seasonal poolside grill serves incredible burgers. A fully stocked pantry (with a cute Smeg fridge) is a nice touch for returning outdoor enthusiasts or anyone in search of cocktail hour nibbles.
Number of Rooms
There are 37 total guest rooms in the Manor House and Century House, with nine suites and multiple connecting configurations possible. Cottages will open in the summer.
In-Room Amenities
The WiFi is excellent, as are the Malin & Goetz bath products that match Troutbeck’s low-key yet luxurious aesthetic. Thick Frette robes, down duvets, radiant heated bathrooms, soaking tubs with smart book caddies, and breakfast in bed are among the thoughtful touches.
Drawbacks
I am hard-pressed to identify one, but, if pushed, a few of the rooms are dark. The building is old and made of wood and slate, so this is to be expected. If this is an issue, request a light-filled room upon booking.
Standout Details
The standouts are the original features that have been painstakingly preserved, like the Walled Garden dating from 1916 that’s tiered over two levels and feels like a magical escape. And the stylish pole barn now strewn with little white lights to make for an ideal party setting. A sweet old stone chapel makes the visitor feel like they’re in Ye Olde England.
In terms of contemporary standouts, the food and service make Troutbeck feel so warm and welcoming. I’ve never had a more delicious (if elevated!) grilled cheese sandwich, and the staff are all so incredibly kind and accommodating that the hotel feels, to borrow an overused cliché that really fits, like a home away from home.
Checking Out
Surroundings
The 45 wooded acres of Troutbeck have it all: streams for fishing (poles are provided), hiking trails, towns dotted with cute antique shops, bucolic spots for morning yoga. It’s a quiet, natural setting just perfect for quick restoration.
What to Do Nearby
You’re in striking distance of all sort of interesting options, like the artist-run The Wassaic Project and MassMOCA in nearby Lenox, Massachusetts, a world-class art destination that’s worth a day trip. So is a detour north to the antique-filled town of Hudson for mid-century and vintage furniture at Red Chair on Warren and beautifully curated finds at Finch. Fuel up on inventive pizzas at Baba Louie’s before heading south to explore the quaint towns of Litchfield, Kent, and Salisbury with their postcard-perfect white church steeples. For those with a need for speed, Lime Rock Park offers race car driving lessons and skiers will love nearby Mohawk Mountain.
Plan Your Trip
How to Get There
Troutbeck is an easy two-hour drive from New York City and six minutes away from the Wassaic train station that’s serviced by MetroNorth. Stewart International Airport is an hour away and is serviced by flights from Europe and Canada.
Getting Around
A car is definitely helpful as there is so much to explore — towns, parks, stores, and art galleries. The hotel will happily pick up guests from the train station, so if you plan to sit still and lounge on property, a train trip with no car works perfectly well.
Keep Exploring the Hudson Valley
A Romantic Hudson Valley Retreat For All Seasons
A Romantic Hudson Valley Retreat For All Seasons
A Storm King Kind of Sunday
The Best of City and Country Rolled into One Little Weekend in Hudson, NY
A Winsome Stay at Zurich's Widder Hotel
Modernism meets medieval history at the Widder Hotel on the shores of Lake Zurich.
ZURICH — Zurich is having something of a design moment and a foodie moment. So much so that I'd say the Swiss lakes are giving Italy a run for its money. Visitors are in for rare treats in the beautifully preserved city on the shores of Lake Zurich.
I was especially taken on my recent visit when I stayed at the Widder Hotel, a five-star, design-led boutique in the heart of the quaint Old Town. A series of townhouses from the 15th-century have been expertly combined to create a 49-room sanctuary, with two restaurants and one very chic bar scene.
The hotel’s authentic shuttered façade overlooks Rennweg, a pedestrian street in the quiet Augustiner quarter, a perfect jumping-off point for exploration. I loved this neighborhood of medieval church spires and cobblestone walkways, but it was the juxtaposition of styles at The Widder that really won me over. From the intimate library (original stone walls, Eames chairs, state-of-the-art, wood-burning stove) to the sleek glass elevators, the Widder is a wonderful discovery for tourists, foodies, and business travelers alike.
Book It
Design Double Rooms start at CHF470 ($480). The penthouse (CHF4,000) has fireplaces, terraces, and bi-level spaces ideal for large groups and long-term stays. Check for availability.
Checking In
This place is stylish from the minimalist check-in desk. Everyone, from the helpful concierges to the valets, is clad in sleek suits (and appears under low, directional lighting). It feels polished and luxurious. You’ll want to enlist the help of the connected concierge for advice on exploring the surrounding historic neighborhood and for help booking the best tables.
Location
Set in the heart of the Old Town, the location can’t be beat for its proximity to not only the business district, but also to the unspoiled beauty of Lake Zurich, the Limmat River, and the snow-capped Alps. The bustling shopping street, Bahnhofstrasse, is steps away, but it is the peaceful surrounding streets that make the location so special. Tip: Hundreds of church bells on Sunday mornings make for a rare symphony.
Hotel Style
Modernism meets medieval history with original, rough-hewn oak beams integrated with glass and chrome walls. It feels less like a hotel and more like a guest lounge. The Igloo, a winter pop-up that runs from November 2 to January 31, 2018, is a glass atrium bar that's been transformed into an all-white winter wonderland serving icy cocktails and traditional Raclette.
This Place Is Perfect For
The Widder is ideal for business travelers (it’s quiet and just steps from the Financial District), curious tourists, and design lovers (the mix of original oak finishes and cutting edge LED TVs and glass elements are just fascinating). The whole place is something of an engineering feat.
But Not So Perfect For
The Widder isn’t as perfect as say, Dolder Grand, for families with young kids. It has a quieter tone — and no swimming pool — and it caters to a slightly older crowd.
What’s on Site
A subterranean fitness center with TechnoGym equipment is excellent for curing jet lag (personal training and nutritional coaching are available), but this isn’t a spa destination. For that, book in at the nearby Dolder Grand for the Norman Foster-designed spa with every state-of-the-art, soothing treatment under the Swiss sun.
Food + Drink
Breakfast is often included in the room rate (subject to booking) and the bright AuGust brasserie offers everything from homemade Bircher muesli to croissants, with a vast selection of teas and frothy coffees. The more formal Widder Bar & Kitchen is a destination for locals and serves a weird mélange of cuisines — Swiss favorites, curries, themed tasting menus focused on a specific ingredient (recent examples include chili, cilantro, basil). The Widder Bar Summer Lounge is a truly special, leafy niche that’s "open in fine weather” from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m.
The Rooms
There are 49 rooms and suites featuring different design elements and color schemes. No two are the same. Most feature original woodwork and stone finishes, and each feels like light-filled, sumptuous oasis.
In-Room Amenities
Movement-sensitive night lights, adjustable mattresses, bathroom mirrors with integrated TVs, Bang & Olufsen stereos, Nespresso machines, minibars stocked with Swiss chocolates, and excellent, free WiFi are all standard.
Drawbacks
I liked everything, but certain rooms are darker than others. (Request the bright Room 403 for energizing blue details and a Le Corbusier couch.)
Standout Detail
The service here is lovely — a mix of organized excellence and warmth. The staff makes every effort to over-deliver, and if the hotel car is free and waiting, they will happily take you to nearby sights or even to the airport (as was the case when I departed at 5 a.m.). Personalized business cards for your stay are a nice touch.
Checking Out
Neighborhood
The Old Town is a magical part of Zurich — there are no cars or chain stores! (Save one Starbucks that I spotted.) The 15th- and 16th-century buildings, and particularly the churches with their enormous clock faces, make this feel like a blissful, old-fashioned time warp.
What to Do Nearby
For a cultural fix, don’t miss the Kunsthaus with its collection of Giacometti, Munch, Picasso, and Matisse, and the contemporary Kunsthalle gallery. But it is the surrounding streets — and natural beauty — that are most special. St. Peter’s Church, with the largest church clock in Europe, is a one-minute walk from the hotel. The stained glass windows by Marc Chagall at the Fraumünster Church are definitely worth a detour.
Don’t miss the concierge’s recommendations that cover everything from food to nearby walks. One of my favorites is Schwarzenbach, a must for foodie delights of all kinds — global teas, chocolates, and every kind of dried fruit imaginable. Spitzenhaus is more than just a parfumerie; the owners have curated a luxurious mini scent museum that provides an incredible education. Limited Stock is a spare, tasteful design store full of artisanal things from Europe and Japan set in an old blacksmith’s atelier.
Good to Know
This is a walking city, so pack shoes accordingly. If possible, don’t miss a Sunday morning in the Old Town. I had no idea how special this would be.
Plan Your Trip
The airport is about 30 minutes from the hotel in traffic, and the train station is just minutes away. Before leaving the airport, get a ZürichCARD travel and discount pass for access to all public transport, including trams, trolley buses, and trains that run in the most timely Swiss fashion. The pass also covers admission to many museums.
Getting Around
The city is largely free of cars, making it perfect for exploring on foot. Taxis are widely available as well.
Explore More Great Swiss Hotels
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Aman Owner, Vladislav Doronin, On His Eclectic Art
Aman owner Vladislav Doronin has built his art collection through a search for a deeper spiritual and cultural meaning.
Aman owner Vladislav Doronin has built his art collection through a search for a deeper spiritual and cultural meaning.
The founder of Russian real-estate development firm Capital Group and the owner and chairman of Aman, Vladislav Doronin is as passionate about art and design as he is about elevated hospitality. Here, he shares his thoughts on everything from spiritual Asian art to the business of collecting.
What are your earliest memories of art?
Growing up in St Petersburg, I was fortunate to be exposed to one of the world’s most famous collections of art and the second-largest art museum in the world, The Hermitage. It was there I first discovered the Suprematists and the Russian avant-garde and, specifically, works by Kazimir Malevich, El Lissitzky, Nikolay Punin, Vladimir Tatlin, Lyubov Popova, Pavel Filonov and Aleksandra Ekster. I was drawn to their works because of their geometry and almost musical quality. These artists were among the first in my collection.
Are you equally passionate about art, architecture and design?
For the last decade I have been collecting design pieces alongside contemporary and pop art. I have been particularly drawn to pieces by designers who were originally trained as architects and this is no coincidence as I’ve worked with many prominent architects throughout my 24-year career in real estate.
Tell us about your home designed by Zaha Hadid.
Zaha Hadid and I were very close and spent a lot of time together during the design of my home on the outskirts of Moscow. This Capital Hill Residence is one of the projects I am most proud of and seeing it for the first time was incredibly moving.
Do you work with an art advisor to build your collections?
I have a number of friends and art consultants who give me advice. Usually I will ask a few informed people their opinions about a work I am interested in, but, ultimately, I trust my instincts. I live with my collection so I need to have a relationship with each work, and I also need to know that it will fit in with the rest of my works.
Tell us about your photography collections and the spaces they fill.
I like Peter Beard and admire the rough, raw, and powerful quality of his work. I also have a collection of works by Hollywood actor and director Dennis Hopper. I have a few portraits of his friends, including Andy Warhol and Ed Ruscha, that were taken in the 1960s.
Are any of the works you own particularly spiritual?
I have spent many years training in the ancient practices of martial arts, yoga, qigong, and Tibetan Buddhism. Through these disciplines, I have studied the flow of energy and have learned to look for art with spiritual and cultural meaning that resonates with me. Traveling to Aman destinations around the world has allowed me to collect many objects of spiritual and martial significance. From my travels to Amankora in Bhutan, a spiritual kingdom with a strong connection to Buddhism, I acquired traditional carved masks, amulets, incense burners and devotional items used in sacred Buddhist ceremonies. I also have prayer beads, prayer wheels and statues given to me by local monks.
What are the most unique pieces in your collection?
I have been inspired by my trips to Aman Tokyo and Amanemu and have appreciated the intense Japanese disciplines and precision. This exacting approach is evident in their art, culture, architecture, and in the Japanese swords that can take up to a year to forge by hand. I have several of these remarkable, prized weapons in my art collection. Japanese regimented discipline is also evident in the Bonsai tree and I have several of these groomed trees — some more than 100 years old — that I consider living, breathing components of my art collection.
Do you participate in the art programme for Aman properties?
We work with artists, galleries, and fairs on a case-by-case basis and I was recently involved with the launch of a Skyspace installation by James Turrell at a villa in Amanzoe in Greece. The sky over the Peloponnese is magical, turning sublime colours over sunrise and sunset and this setting suits his work beautifully.
Is there an artist or architect that that you’re particularly excited about?
I would like to work with Tadao Ando and Santiago Calatrava in the future, and, in terms of art, I am particularly excited about discovering new artists from Japan and China. Calligraphy and ink drawings have been increasingly compelling, so I may add a few of these to my collection.
This article originally appeared in the December 2017 issue of Billionaire, The Celebration. To subscribe contact subs@highend.media
Craig Robins’ dining boltholes
The CEO and president of property development company Dacra meets fashion designers over tuna tartare in Paris and art collectors over dim sum in Hong Kong
The CEO and president of property development company Dacra meets fashion designers over tuna tartare in Paris and art collectors over dim sum in Hong Kong
“Everything is so rushed today that it’s important to share meals with colleagues and partners: when work gets integrated with life, everything is enhanced – we’re all more productive. My business focuses on art and design – specifically, developing the Miami Design District with leading brands and restaurants – and this extends to where I choose to entertain architects, designers, lawyers or our leasing team.
A favourite Miami lunch spot is Michael’s Genuine, a foodie mecca where I recently shared a fun meal with Michael Burke, CEO of Louis Vuitton, to bring him up to speed on some public art projects. I love its huge umbrellas; you can stay outside even if there’s a tropical shower. Whoever I’m with, whether it’s Pharrell or Riccardo Tisci, I order the stracciatella for sharing – with fresh peaches or tomatoes – and the seasonal stone crab claws.
The sleek MC Kitchen, another regular in the Design District, has a bustling open kitchen and the world’s best truffle pizza; I have one slice – it’s rich – and bring the rest to the office, which goes down well. I recently shared their signature poulet rouge with caramelised onions with cult hairdresser Oribe, while discussing the possibility of a salon in the District. I don’t drink with lunch, but for special dinners here I’ll have a glass of Burly Cabernet.
At Mandolin, one of the city’s most soulful restaurants, everyone bonds in the tavern-like atmosphere. Balenciaga’s CEO Cédric Charbit and I discussed opening its next store here over a family-style meal of grilled octopus and sirloin kefte, further solidifying our relationship.
The creative magic of the District expands exponentially during Design Miami, the fair I founded. One of last year’s most memorable evenings was in a private space above a super-hip spot called OTL. During the week, it’s perfect for laidback morning meetings, brainstorming over quinoa muffins – but that night, we celebrated the Saint Laurent store opening with art dealers and curators including Larry Gagosian and Jeffrey Deitch and an abundant, experimental menu of canapés.
I also do a lot of business outside Miami. The place to be during Art Basel is the bar in Les Trois Rois, which serves excellent cocktails; while nearby Chez Donati – where I recently met Nadja Swarovski to talk about ideas for Design Miami – has excellent fillet of sole Florentine and spaghetti with clams.
In London, The Connaught is perfect for drinks meetings during Frieze. One of my favourite restaurants is The River Café. I had dinner there recently with David Adjaye to discuss exciting future projects over fantastic pasta and seabass.
Paris is important for my work with fashion houses, and visits there mean going to fabulous bistros with Christian Louboutin, who I bonded with on a research trip to South America before he opened his flagship in the District. Our last dinner, at stylish La Société in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, was a wonderful night of tuna tartare and lively conversation.
On my last trip to Hong Kong, where I’m exploring real estate concepts, I went to a fabulous dinner, full of design people, hosted by entrepreneur Alan Lo and his father Victor Lo, chairman and CEO of Gold Peak Industries. It was at the Ilse Crawford-designed Duddell’s, on top of the Shanghai Tang Mansion: the terrace garden setting is gorgeous, and Alan and I chatted about Asian art over excellent dim sum and fried lobster. In Tokyo, for the Pritzker Prize ceremony, I had delicious dinners with collectors at the Park Hyatt. Its properties are outstanding; the views from the restaurant, Kozue, are magnificent – especially accompanied by sea urchin and beef shabu-shabu and debate about the future of architecture, art and design.”
WHERE TO FIND
Chez Donati, St. Johanns-Vorstadt 48, 4056 Basel (+416-1322 0919). The Connaught, Carlos Place, London W1 (020-7499 7070; the-connaught.co.uk). Duddell’s, Level 3, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell Street, Central, Hong Kong (+852-2525 9191; duddells.co). Kozue, Park Hyatt, 3-7-1-2 Nishi Shinjuku, Shinjuku-Ku, Tokyo (+813-5323 3460; tokyo.park.hyatt.co.jp). La Société, 4 Place Saint-Germain des Près, 75006 Paris (+331-5363 6060; restaurantlasociete.com). Les Trois Rois, Blumenrain 8, 4001 Basel (+416-1260 5050; lestroisrois.com). Mandolin Aegean Bistro, 4312 NE 2nd Avenue, Miami (+1305-576 6066; mandolinmiami.com). MC Kitchen, 4141 NE 2nd Avenue #101a, Miami (+1305-456 9948; mckitchenmiami.com). Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink, 130 NE 40th Street, Miami (+1305-573 5550; michaelsgenuine.com). OTL, 160 NE 40th Street, Miami (+1786-953 7620; otlmia.com). The River Café, Thames Wharf, Rainville Road, London W6 (020-7386 4200; rivercafe.co.uk).
Vladislav Doronin’s perfect weekend in Miami
The founder of Capital Group counts Aman and the forthcoming Missoni Baia in Miami among his hospitality and residential holdings
The founder of Capital Group counts Aman and the forthcoming Missoni Baia in Miami among his hospitality and residential holdings
“Miami is such a dynamic place and there is always something to do, from tennis tournaments to Art Basel to the annual boat show. But what I love most is the weather: the sun and the outdoor lifestyle really agree with me, and I think it’s a very good, easy‑going place to raise children.
Saturday mornings at my home on Star Island begin at 8am with a cup of hot water, followed by Qigong meditation with the Tibetan monks I’ve been training with for a few years. This time is all about breathing and movement, and it clears my meridians and chakras. Afterwards I’ll go for a run on the beach with my trainer, or a long swim.
Breakfast is around 10am, and includes papaya, porridge, avocados and miso soup, plus eggs or turkey for protein. I’ll drink green tea and maybe some spicy green juice, which stokes my immune system. Saturdays in Miami are about family, and we always have at least six or seven people around the table, including my parents, plus my partner and children.
Much of the day is spent on the water, and if the weather is really nice we’ll head to Bimini or Eleuthera on my Riva Domino for a day in the Bahamas. More often, though, we’ll go by tender to Seaspice Restaurant for lunch overlooking the Miami River. The atmosphere is lively and the food healthy – I particularly like the salads and fresh fish. Or I might take my speedboat, a Wider 42, over to Key Biscayne and kite-surf with my trainer. I absolutely love this sport, so if we go, it’s at least a two-hour commitment.
I love spending time with my new English bulldog, Mozart, and I often walk him in Bayfront Park, which was redesigned by Isamu Noguchi in the 1980s. If the weather isn’t perfect, the afternoon might involve a visit to the Pérez Art Museum or the Bass Museum. I collect contemporary art and love both of these collections. I’ll also drop into the Taschen Store to stock up on art books. In the evening we like to eat out, and one of my favourite places is Casa Tua in Miami Beach. The owner, Miky Grendene, always takes good care of us. We’ll sit out in the lantern-lit back garden and enjoy simple pasta with tomato and basil, or a risotto with truffles. Another place for a night out is Cipriani, where I’ll order sharing plates of baby artichokes and marinated aubergine. The pan-roasted veal with limone is superb too, and I do like a good Tuscan red wine – a Gaia or an Ornellaia. I’m not so much a clubbing guy these days but if I do go out, it might be to the Wall Lounge in the W Hotel. In any case, I am usually in bed by midnight.
Sunday begins the same way, with meditation and exercise – but then I might go for a drive in my 1965 Jaguar E-Type. I love to drive and don’t often get the chance in London, so this is a real treat. I’ll probably end up having lunch with friends at Kyu in the Wynwood district, where the plant-focused food is light and easy. I like this place so much that it influenced our Japanese restaurant Nama, at Amanpuri. Later on, I’ll take the boat out for a cruise around Biscayne Bay and the islands, and do some fishing. You see the most beautiful sunsets from Key Biscayne, where there is less boat traffic and the views are unobstructed. For a drink I like the bar at The Setai –the Asian-inspired atmosphere is very relaxing. Then it’s home for dinner, prepared by my chef Fabrizio, which might include the fish we’ve caught that day. To end the day, I’ll watch a film or a TV series like Billions or Marco Polo in our 4D cinema. Often I fly back to London to arrive on Monday morning, but my Miami weekends give me an amazing energy and after just two days my batteries are fully recharged.”
A long weekend in Philadelphia with Tory Burch
The fashion designer-philanthropist shares dazzling historic monuments, hidden art collections and a few serious foodie havens with Christina Ohly Evans
The fashion designer-philanthropist shares dazzling historic monuments, hidden art collections and a few serious foodie havens with Christina Ohly Evans
It used to be that Philadelphia was a very conservative city, and not so much a visiting one – but that has changed. There is now so much on offer: great food, designer hotels, farmers’ markets. And of course there’s so much rich history too; the Liberty Bell, Independence Hall, The Franklin Institute Science Museum and the Barnes Foundation are all here. Basically the city is the birthplace of our democracy, so regardless of a person’s political views, after last year’s presidential election it’s more relevant, and I’d say interesting, than ever.
I encourage friends to visit even just for the day, since Philadelphia is only a little over an hour by train from New York. But there are great hotels to choose from, many with unexpected, nice design or tech touches. The Rittenhouse overlooks Rittenhouse Square and has an always-elegant ambience, with large suites refurbished by Alexandra Champalimaud – the palette of bright colours against rich, dark walls is so chic, and there’s a lovely leafy central courtyard. Another boutique offering is the Roost Apartment Hotel, designed by Morris Adjmi – he also did the very cool Wythe Hotel, in Brooklyn – which has contemporary furnishings by Patricia Urquiola and Roll & Hill, among others. Rittenhouse 1715 is smaller and more traditional, in a Georgian-style carriage house from the early 1900s, and its rooms are airy and stylish. It’s just a three-storey building set on a very quiet residential street, so it feels like a nice escape.
So many neighbourhoods have come up over the past few years. One of the best to explore is Fairmount, where the Barnes Foundation is located. The Barnes is very near to my heart; the collections of post-impressionist and modern paintings, as well as Native American ceramics, textiles and jewellery, are among the finest in the world. The new building was designed by Tod Williams and Billie Tsien, and it respects the history of founder Albert Barnes’ original museum vision, but puts the art centre stage in light-filled gallery spaces. And the Barnes Foundation Arboretum, in suburban Merion, is well worth a visit for the beautiful gardens full of rare plants and trees. The monkey puzzle tree in particular is extraordinary – all twisted limbs and thorny leaves.
Fairmount is home to other world-class museums as well. There’s the Philadelphia Museum of Art, and the Rodin Museum – the latter has one of the largest collections of the artist’s work outside Paris. But a lesser‑known gem is the Fabric Workshop and Museum, with incredible contemporary art by Louise Bourgeois, Anish Kapoor and Carrie Mae Weems, among so many others, and it offers a programme of performance art and workshops for all ages.
The Fishtown neighbourhood is another must; this formerly dodgy area is now the Williamsburg of Philly, and it’s perfect for wandering. You can pick up a coffee from La Colombe, one of the city’s best roasters, before visiting the indie, old-school Philadelphia Record Exchange for any kind of music you can possibly think of. Pizzeria Beddia is a real Fishtown highlight; it has been deemed the best pizza in America by Bon Appétit magazine. Joe Beddia makes just 40 “pies” a day, and there’s no place to sit, so you have to get there very early to get served. The pizza arrabbiata is unbelievable. Once you’re fed, Jinxed Philadelphia is an incredible variety store where almost all the pieces are unique – everything from shiny metal housewares to vintage cameras to antique maps.Another Fishtown draw is Kensington Quarters, an industrial warehouse with a popular great meat-centric restaurant and butchery classes, and Little Baby’s Ice Cream, where the weird but interesting flavours – Cucumber Dill, Chocolate Salt Malt – are all delicious.
No trip to Philly is complete without one of the city’s famous cheese steaks. This local delicacy is the subject of debate; some people like Jim’s Steaks, some like Pat’s King of Steaks. I’ll take either, but the whole cheese steak thing is an experience, so load up with hot peppers and just enjoy. At the sprawling Reading Terminal Market, a historic farmers’ market that opened in 1892, you can find everything from traditional pretzels, made by the Amish, to beautiful, freshly cut flowers.
Philadelphia is, of course, known for its place in US history, and Independence Hall, which was where the Declaration of Independence was signed, is a must. The Liberty Bell – cast in London and brought to the US, where it immediately cracked – is another. Benjamin Franklin is buried at Christ Church, and people throw pennies at his grave – a symbol of good luck and a nod to his “a penny saved is a penny earned” saying – though this ritual has caused some damage over time, so it’s a little bit frowned upon now.
Sporting life is a big part of Philadelphia, and Boathouse Row on the Schuylkill River is a beautiful place to watch the rowers passing by, while there are all sorts of seasonal events on offer – the Radnor Hunt, the Dad Vail Regatta and the Philadelphia Marathon – that draw crowds from all over the world. As a child, I often went to watch the Phillies baseball and Eagles football games with my brothers, and at these events you’re always assured of an enthusiastic crowd.
The Old City area is full of quaint Federal and Georgian-style buildings, so a stroll here is well worth it for the architecture alone. But shoppers won’t be disappointed with the excellent vintage shops and indie boutiques along North Third Street, where Vagabond is one of the best for clothing by emerging designers – look out for Ajaie Alaie and UZINC, from Brooklyn – and also unique decorative things for the home. There is also Antique Row on Pine Street for a mix of old and new stores, galleries and cafés.
There are all sorts of treasures outside the city as well, not least some world-class gardens. I’d highly recommend a trip to Longwood Gardens, which are beautiful year round, but especially during the holidays. One of the largest parks in Philadelphia, Fairmount, is on the outskirts of town; it has hiking and biking trails, as well as a Japanese house and garden, called Shofusu, that is spectacularly lovely. If you go here, plan for a Sunday brunch at the Valley Green Inn, where the French toast is legendary.
Philadelphia’s Main Line – the western suburbs that were built along the main line of the Pennsylvania Railroad – is no longer a series of sleepy communities; some of the most exciting restaurants and shops are here. B2 Bluefin Sushi, in Bala Cynwyd, is one of the best sushi restaurants I’ve eaten at anywhere; and the very chic boutique Kirna Zabête is a great addition to Bryn Mawr. This offshoot of the popular New York store of the same name is fantastic for fashion finds, from Loewe to Proenza Schouler.
There is no bad time of year to visit Philadelphia, though I prefer the city in the spring and autumn when the gardens are in bloom, and it isn’t so hot and humid. The Fringe Festival in September is an annual highlight – a citywide celebration of art, dance and theatre. For visitors in July, the fireworks over the Philadelphia Museum of Art offer a real dose of Americana. Regardless of the season, there is really something for everyone. I love that Philadelphia has become more accessible and more diverse, and that the food scene is world-class – but that it still feels like home.
US Road Trips: The Northeast
The quintessential city escape: seaside retreats, rolling hills, secluded lakes, beachy hangouts, sunset beers. Pack up and hit the highway with this list of weekend road trip destinations in the northeast United States. Are we there yet?
Jump to: Connecticut | Maine | Maryland | Massachusetts | New York | Rhode Island | Vermont
Head to Southport/Westport
If you're in the mood for low-key antiquing and the beach. The Delmar Hotel and Artisan restaurant are around the corner from what is, quite possibly, the sweetest, tiniest town. Terrain, Anthropologie's stunning offshoot (greenhouse, garden center, cafe), has a packed summer lineup of classes and events.
Route to take: Straight shot on I-95, 90 minutes from Manhattan.
Good to know: The Gray Goose Cafe is adorable for lunch.
Head to Greenwich
If you're in the mood for fresh air and fancy shopping. Hit "The Ave" for boutiques like Privet House. Enjoy a leisurely lunch at local favorite Meli Melo, where specialties include French onion soup and freshly squeezed OJ. If you're still around for dinner, stroll down to L'Escale for harborside dining and specialty cocktails named for the seven heavenly virtues.
Route to take: One hour by car from New York City via I-95.
Good to know: The Drawing Room serves hand-blended teas and delicious scones with clotted cream. Their adjacent shop is the place to buy decorative pillows and scented candles. Stop off in Port Chester for a pizza margarita at Mario Batali's Tarry Lodge and freshly baked bread and cured meats from the market.
Head to Washington
If you’re in the mood for a classic, picturesque New England town. Dine by the open hearth fire at the Mayflower Inn, pick up hot cross buns and Irish soda bread from The Pantry, or take a picnic and hike the beautiful trails along the Shepaug River in Steep Rock Reserve.
Route to take: A two-hour jaunt from NYC.
Good to know: Averill Farm has been family-run since 1746. Go in the fall for apple picking, homemade pies, and old-fashioned farm fun.
Read more on Fathom: New England Classic: A Design Duo's Favorites in Washington Connecticut
MAINE
Head to Acadia National Park
If you’re in the mood for coastal scenery at its finest. Bike the national park's 45 miles of carriage roads, hike the diverse terrain, and watch the sunrise from atop Cadillac Mountain. Stay at charming and kitsch-free West Street Hotel in Bar Harbor and get popovers fresh from the oven at Jordan Pond House before gorging yourself on lobster rolls and ice cream.
Route to take: Stop along the park’s 27-mile scenic route at Sand Beach, Thunder Hole, Jordan Pond, and Cadillac Mountain.
Good to know: For late night bites and weekly karaoke, head to Little A's Sports Bar.
Read more on Fathom: Finding Arcadia in Acadia
Head to Rockland
If you're in the mood for farm-fresh food without the Boston or New York price tag. Make a reservation at Primo and enjoy a creative menu that uses produce and animals raised on the property.
Route to take: Route 1 affords beautiful coastal scenery, complete with waves crashing into rocky cliffsides and charming lighthouses.
Good to know: The Farnsworth Art Museum is also located in Rockland, giving you a good dose of culture along with a fantastic meal.
Head Down the Coast of Maine
If you're in the mood for by-the-book prep, nature adventures, and rural farm areas.
Route to take: Skip around from Camden to Rockport to Kennebunkport to Norway.
Good to know: Stay at the Country Inn or The White Barn Inn; stock up on L.L. Bean; let Ducktrap Kayak handle your paddling details.
Read more on Fathom: Little Black Book for Coastal Maine
MARYLAND
Head to the Chesapeake Coast
If you're in the mood for a nautical state of mind. Start by gazing at the sailboats from your bedroom window at Inn at Perry Cabin. Get dirty with buckets of peel-and-eat shrimp poured onto tables covered in brown paper by day; clean up for the five-course dinner menu from a Per Se alum at Bartlett Pear Inn.
Route to take: Route 301 is a pleasant alternative to the NJ Turnpike and I-95.
Good to know: The NYT has a list of finger-licking crab shacks that's worth a gander.
MASSACHUSETTS
Head to the Berkshires
If you're in the mood for dance, theater, yoga, Shakespeare, and skinny dipping with mountain as the backdrop.
Route to take: Saw Mill from NYC; Mohawk Trail into North Adams from Boston.
Good to know: Jacob's Pillow, Mass MoCA, Kripalu, and Canyon Ranch are all here.
Read more on Fathom: Berkshires Hot List and Breathing Lessons in the Berkshires
Head to Nantucket
If you're in the mood for a new flavor profile on one the coast's most historic islands. Do Provisions for brunch, Ventuno for dinner, and Brotherhood of Thieves for a sunset beer. Shack up at White Elephant or Wauwinet.
Route to take: JetBlue flies to the island during summer months.
Good to know: Take the pooch. There's a lot of outdoor living, dog-friendly hotels, and off-leash beaches.
NEW YORK
Head to Barryville
If you're in the mood for locavore eating, sustainable shopping, patronizing family businesses. Stay at Hillside Schoolhouse, a two-bedroom charmer nestled in the woods of Sullivan County. Head to Benji & Jake's for cold beers and wood-fired pizza on the upstairs deck overlooking Kauneonga Lake. Pick up locally sourced pantry items from modern general store River Market or the Barryville Farmers Market (on Saturdays during the summer). Rent an inner tube and take a ride along Skinner's Falls. Follow with a long and lazy dinner at The Heron.
Route to take: Route 97 through Barryville has crazy winding roads, scenic overlooks along the Delaware River, and habitats for birds of prey (once a dirt road referred to as the Hawk's Nest).
Good to know: Take a cue from owner Bronson Bigelow, who quit his corporate job to open the inn and make all the furniture in it. Or just shop his collection of upcycled antiques, vintage industrial objects, and restored ice boxes.
Head to Hudson
If you're in the mood for juxtaposing well-worn Victorian charm with big city comforts and a bit of edginess. Stay at Inn at Hudson, drink a perfectly pulled espresso at Swallow, check out the mini food truck emporium on Warren Street, have killer (local, sustainable, homemade) burger with the works at the retro-fitted '50s diner Grazin', and finish off with a nightcap and live show at Helsinki.
Route to take: Ride Amtrak right into town; zip up from NYC in a car on 87.
Good to know: Check the schedule for happenings at the cathedral-like Basilica Hudson, an old glue factory that's been turned into a performing arts space.
Read more on Fathom: The Best of City and Country Rolled Into One Little Weekend in Hudson, New York
Head to Ithaca
If you're in the mood for a healthy dose of counter-culturalism and hippie goodness. The Argos Inn, a LEED-certified 10-room inn meticulously renovated with heated stone slab floors, velvet drapes, and turn-of-the-century Bergere chairs. It's a ten-minute walk from your velvet-flocked suite to the iconic Moosewood restaurant, which turned all-natural cooking and '70s-era co-operative business ideals into a full-fledge vegetarian kitchen collective. Obviously, pick up a cookbook. Morning coffees can and should be had at the original Gimme! Coffee (now a Brooklyn mainstay). Besides swimming holes and architectural tours of nearby Cornell campus (I.M. Pei! Koolhaus! Richard Meier!), you're spitting distance from the Finger Lakes wine country.
Route to take: Make it scenic and curve up the Catskill Mountains. Make a sweet rest stop for a few scoops of ice cream made from Cornell's own dairy farm.
Read more on Fathom: This Is Where Locavore Was Born
Head to Livingston Manor
If you're in the mood for a monastic environment. Book a weekend at Dai Bosatsu Zendo, a Japanese Buddhist sanctuary where you can workshop the basics of being — like breathing and being quiet.
Route to take: The Palisades (from NYC) are soothing and scenic.
Good to know: No prior Zen practice necessary. And if you want your alone time with somebody, you can rent a small cottage on the premises.
Head to Montauk
If you're in the mood for an easy, breezy beach weekend. Ruschmeyer's has a retro camp vibe, but the best way to hang is by renting a little something you can call home.
Route to take: Drive very early in the morning or very late at night on 495 to Sunrise Highway to the very end of Montauk Highway (avoid traffic by using GPS to navigate back roads).
Good to know: BYOB seafood shack Duryea's Lobster Deck and Fishbar on the Lake are musts.
Read more on Fathom: Hamptons Guide and Montauk Master Plan
Head to the North Fork
If you're in the mood for large plots of farmland, farmstands, U-picks, and wineries. Book at slow-food hang North Fork Table and Inn.
Route to take: Tiny town centers dot the Main Road (Route 25) and Sound Avenue (Route 48).
Good to know: The Custer Observatory is open every Saturday from dusk to midnight for stargazing.
While in the area: see our North Fork hit list.
Head to Phoenicia
If you're in the mood for agritourism with a Dutch design bent. Try Stony Creek Farm in Walton, where fancy tents with wood-burning stoves are nestled on a working farm. Nightly harvests become dinner.
Route to take: Take 87 and stop in for a tour of Tuthilltown Spirits, the distillery where Hudson Baby Bourbon is made.
Good to know: The culinary cognoscenti of NYC get their prime cuts from Fleisher's Meats; you can pick up breakfast sausages at their full-service butcher shop.
Read more on Fathom: Catskills Hit List
Head to Shandelee
If you're in the mood for hiking, biking, foraging, and dozing off in the sun. The Arnold House, an adorably Instagrammable 10-room inn (Sferra linens, Pendelton blankets, cork floors), is the perfect setting for your country retreat. Being the proper hosts that they are, the Foster family proprietors offer plenty of fun activities (ice fishing in the winter, ramp foraging in the spring, ravioli making at nearby Northern Farmhouse Pasta).
Route to take: Wind through the Palisades and continue northwest from NYC.
Good to know: If you didn't bring your own pooch (the hotel provides dog beds, water bowls, housemade treats), spend some time cuddling with Adelaide, the English Bulldog.
Head to West Kill
If you're in the mood for the simple Catskill pleasures. Star at the Spruceton Inn, a Catskills "bed & bar" with mountain views. Get your pancakes stacked at Phoenicia Diner. Work off the carbs with a picturesque hike to Diamond Notch Falls, a serious hike up Overlook Mountain, or, come winter, some ski tubing on Plattekill Mountain. Dine on savory pies at Table on Ten. Ride Icelandic horses on quiet trails. Or, back at the inn, just play some bocce and make some snacks in your own kitchenette or on the grill.
Route to take: Hit the Palisades and roll through Woodstock. No wheels? Coordinate a pick-up with your guest house after catching the Trailways bus from Port Authority.
Good to know: Leave plenty of time to get home so that you can stop for antiques and farmstand souvenirs: raw milk and gouda from Byebrook Farm; old thingamabobs from Lyon Mountain Blue Barn Antiques; farmy furniture at Wood Bull antiques; honey and grass-fed meats from Stone & Thistle.
Read more on Fathom: Where to Go from NYC, the Catskills Checklist
Head to Lake Placid
If you’re in the mood for adult summer camp in the Adirondacks. Check out Wild Walk, the “High Line of the Forest,” a museum experience suspended in the treetops of Tupper Lake. Canoe or kayak down the Raquette River, and end the day with a good meal and a better cocktail at Liquids and Solids.
Route to take: Hit the Taconic Parkway from New York City.
Good to know: Stay at Whiteface Lodge for a well-appointed resort experience, or camp near Lake Placid, Saranac Lake, or Tupper Lake for a real back-to-nature experience.
Read more on Fathom: A Walk in the Woods Above NY’s Adirondacks
RHODE ISLAND
Head to Watch Hill/Weekapaug
If you're in the mood for a gorgeous beach escape with excellent cuisine to match. The recently revamped Weekapaug Inn where sail boats, fishing gear, and a discreet, black-bottomed pool are all at your disposal. A meal of locally caught lobster, Matunuck oysters, and native beets is as memorable as the sunsets overlooking bucolic Quonochontaug Pond.
Route to take: Head south on the I-95. On the way back to civilization, stock up on freshly baked chocolate chunk and molasses cookies at gourmet emporium The Cooked Goose.
Good to know: Killer Swedish massages at Relais & Chateaux sister property The Ocean House are a Zen bonus.
Read more on Fathom: Summer with the Kids in Watch Hill
VERMONT
Head to Woodstock
If you're in the mood for quintessential Americana combined with a new, LEED-certified spa. Book the grand Woodstock Inn in New England's most picture-postcard-perfect town. They have a serene spa and delicious farm-to-table cuisine in its casual Red Rooster restaurant. Head across the quaint village green outside your front door and make stops at the old-school Gillingham's general store and Yankee Bookshop before a lovely dinner-a-deux at The Prince and The Pauper, a town institution.
Route to take: The Taconic Parkway from NYC. It might be a slightly longer route, but the scenery — and a stop at the old-school Millbrook Diner (3266 Franklin Ave.; +1-845-677-5319) — makes it worth it.
Good to know: Do not skip town without a stop for black raspberry ice cream cones at the White Cottage Snack Bar. Open only in summer, this low-key spot is worth a serious, deep-fried detour.
Head to Burlington
If you’re in the mood for getting back in touch with nature and ending the day with a fantastic craft beer. Stay at eco-friendly Hotel Vermont and dine next door at Chef Eric Warnstedt’s revered restaurant Hen of the Wood. Do some boutique shopping on Church Street, or head down the hill to Lake Champlain for lakeside activites in the summer and winter.
Route to take: On your way into the city, stop at Shelburne Farms, a nonprofit farm focused on sustainability education, for tours of their historic barns, tons of scenic walking trails, and classic Vermont foodstuffs from the farm store.
Good to know: August First Bakery may not allow laptops, but they have the best bread downtown.
Read more on Fathom: It’s All Small Town Good Vibes in Burlington, Vermont
MORE FATHOM-APPROVED GETAWAYS
Have you seen our list of the Most Romantic Hotels in The Northeast?
Special thanks to contributors Devorah Klein Lev-Tov, Christina Ohly, and Ilaria Urbinati.
A Kid-Centric Weekend in the Windy City
Balancing kid-friendly fancies with mature tastes is the key to any tantrum-free family getaway. Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly tackled the task with her daughter during a weekend in Chicago. Here's what she did.
Balancing kid-friendly fancies with mature tastes is the key to any tantrum-free family getaway. Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly tackled the task with her daughter during a weekend in Chicago. Here's what she did.
CHICAGO – It had easily been ten years since my last non-work trip to Chicago, and with a short weekend window presenting itself, my eleven-year-old daughter Kate and I decided to head to the Windy City for hefty doses of architecture, culture, relaxation, great food, and visits with friends. The manageable city on the shores of Lake Michigan didn't disappoint, and we came away feeling relaxed, rejuvenated, and extremely well fed.
DAY ONE: THE LOOP, THE MAGNIFICENT MILE, AND MORE
With less than 36 hours, we hit the ground running and went straight for Millennium Park for the famed Anish Kapoor sculpture Cloud Gate, which locals refer to as "The Bean." The beautiful, mirrored droplet inspired by liquid mercury is wonderful for all ages and reflects the surrounding skyline and architecture to dazzling effect. A twelve-foot high arch beneath the piece makes for fun explorating. We could easily have spent half the day exploring Millennium Park's Crown Fountain, Lurie Garden, and the Frank Gehry-designed BP Bridge.
But we were off to Art Institute of Chicago to marvel at the permanent collections. We stopped for lunch in the Renzo Piano-designed wing at Terzo Piano — a minimalist, pure white space with a menu of mezzes, flatbreads, and creative salads. Perfect museum fare. Well fed, we went back down Michigan Avenue, stopping at various Walgreen's along the way. Yes, really. The concept of the "drugstore" takes on a whole new meaning in Chicago, and at select branches (like the one in the iconic Wrigley Building), we found fresh sushi (complete with on-site chef!), pricey liquor, and treasures that made for one-stop shopping in a gilt-trimmed setting.
After we took the obligatory photos on the Chicago River bridge, we pushed on to the shopping area that typifies the area they call "Gold Coast" for good reason. Magnificent Mile is packed with big-ticket designer boutiques (Prada, Gucci, Hermes), and the adjoining streets have more accessible spots like Sprinkles Cupcakes on East Walton Street. For the uninitiated, this is a confectionary concept that features a cupcake ATM that is restocked 24 hours a day with a variety of insanely sweet treats for people. And dogs, too. This was, by far, the highlight of Chicago, as far as Kate was concerned.
Refueled once again, we scouted other restaurants like Jellyfish (inventive sushi in a glass atrium), Carmine's (enormous portions of Italian red-sauce classics), and Hugo's Frog Bar (terrible name; excellent seafood). Hugo's is a fun, nautically themed concept for parents and kids alike. They serve huge plates of shrimp cocktail, planked Lake Superior whitefish, and beautiful charbroiled burgers. Think BIG!
After a lot of walking, eating, and drinking (we found coffee and tea shops on virtually every corner, which was a nice way to combat Chicago's notorious chill), we went back to The Peninsula Hotel to relax in the spa. I'm not usually one for massages and treatments, but I'd heard wonderful things about their Bamboo Harmonizer massage and decided to give it a whirl. The treatment is designed to suck away negative energy and stimulate the flow of positive qi energy. (Yes, please!) It was the most thoroughly relaxing 90 minutes I've ever experienced. Maybe it was the combination of warm bamboo rods being rolled all over my tired legs and feet or the gentle clacking sound of the wood, but I fell asleep hard and awoke completely reinvigorated. Do carve out time for this one.
After prying ourselves from the hotel, we went to Bistronomic, a bustling bistro just around the corner, for dinner. Our was a multi-generational group, and everyone found something on the menu. Ddelicious terrines of tuna tartare, garlicky escargot, and crispy duck confit — all French classics infused with modern flair. A huge Baked Alaska (keeping it old-school) made for the perfect ending to a memorable meal and a packed day.
DAY TWO: PANCAKES, DAVID BOWIE, AND A KICK-ASS AQUARIUM
Another winner in the big food category is Pancake House, a downtown breakfast staple that serves excellent omelets in a traditional, diner ambience. From here, we went to Museum of Contemporary Art to see the exhibit "David Bowie Is." While this may not be the most kid-friendly content (what with all the coke spoons, sex, and colorful language), the highly interactive show features music, film footage, and outlandish costumes, including Ziggy Stardust bodysuits and Alexander McQueen coats. This was the show's only North American stop, and it was so worth a detour. (Lady Gaga wouldn't be Gaga without the influence of Bowie.) MCA's well-stocked gift shop sells everything from Union Jack throws and pillows to Andromeda iPhone covers to "Let's Dance" earrings.
After circling back to the hotel to pick up our complimentary Mini Cooper (this can be arranged in advance and was second only to Sprinkles Cupcakes in my daughter's "cool" view), we headed to Shedd Aquarium on the other side of town. As it's one of the largest aquariums in the world, you'll want to plan your visit in advance. I highly recommend the technicolor "Jellies" exhibit (on view until January 2015) because those amorphous creatures are pretty entrancing.
In the name of research, we stopped by Foodlife in Water Tower Place, a place that takes the food court concept to an entirely new level. Foodlife is a collection of casual dining concepts within one main, bustling space. Separate kitchens turn out excellent, fresh food that ranges from sushi and inventive salads to signature Chicago deep-dish pizza. Dedicated dessert areas serving custom-made crepes were the culinary highlight for the younger members of our entourage. And if I'm being honest, this is my favorite way to eat too — a bit of this, a bit of that.
If time or weather had allowed, I would have taken a Chicago Architecture Foundation River Cruise because it's the best way to learn about the city's rich architectural history. My next trip will also include a stop at Museum of Science and Industry to see its U-505 German submarine from World War II, Omnimax Theatre, and mirror mazes.
Our last stop, Gibson's Bar & Steakhouse, didn't disappoint for early dinner. This is exactly the kind of food and atmosphere I expect from Chicago: enormous steaks, wedge salads loaded with bacon and blue cheese, and Bookbinder's soup in a warm, wood-paneled setting. The completely unpretentious meal was the perfect end to our whirlwind weekend. We made our way to the airport feeling sated in every way.
WHERE TO STAY
The Peninsula in the heart of downtown Chicago tops my list. This particular outpost just gets kids/tweens/teens. We were greeted at 9 p.m. by a dessert bar in the main dining room that was Willy Wonka-esque in every way. Vats of candies, make-your-own sundae bars, a waffle station, and chocolate bon-bons all made for the perfect, warm Midwest welcome.
Our spacious room was no less impressive, with its Fili D'oro linens, endless amenities (stuffed animals, Oscar de La Renta creams, fresh fruit platters), and sweeping views of Water Tower Park and the lake in the distance. Highlights included a sprawling swimming pool — complete with glorious, twenty-foot windows and plush robes — a Zen spa, and Shanghai Terrace, the hotel's dim sum hotspot that's long on shrimp dumplings and has a red lacquer vibe. Add in a small skating rink that's open during the winter months, and this spot is pretty much kid nirvana.
Just down the street you'll find the relatively new Thompson Hotel, a Tara Bernerd-designed gem that features lots of warm wood, modernist light fixtures, and living walls at every turn. In-house restaurant Nico Osteria is worth a stop for lunch or dinner and serves some of the best crudo and housemade taglioni — not to mention biscotti and maple gelati — that I've tasted anywhere (Italy included).
Also worth mentioning: Park Hyatt, Ritz Carlton Chicago (now managed by Four Seasons), and a new Waldorf Astoria that offers spacious rooms and suites, many of which are specifically designed to accommodate families. All of these hotels are perfectly positioned for exploring the stylish Gold Coast area, nearby Michigan Avenue, and the many great restaurants located within a five-block radius.
HOW TO GET THERE
The numerous flight options in and out of Chicago O'Hare International Airport (ORD) make traveling with kids and changing plans at a moment's notice (my forte) easy and manageable. While Chicago is a United Airlines hub, I recommend American Airlines for Terminal 3's food offerings alone. Celebrated chef Rick Bayless' Tortas Frontera — an incredible restaurant specializing in warm, open-faced sandwiches of smoked bacon and tres queso — makes a long layover almost worth it.
BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE
Chicago, One Neighborhood at a Time
Chicago: How to Eat Like a Local
Two Bars, One Big Appetite
South Africa's Luxe and Low-Key Tswalu Redefines the Safari
Subtly luxurious lodgings and top-knotch guides come together to perfectly redefine "safari." Contributing editor Christina Ohly has her ultimate bespoke safari experience.
Subtly luxurious lodgings and top-knotch guides come together to perfectly redefine "safari." Contributing editor Christina Ohly has her ultimate bespoke safari experience.
KALAHARI DESERT, South Africa – From the moment I arrived at the Johannesburg airport for the flight to Tswalu, a truly unique game reserve located in the southern part of the Kalahari Desert, I knew this one was going to be different. My family and I boarded their luxurious Pilatus plane for the one-and-a-half hour hop to Tswalu's dedicated airstrip, warmly welcomed and escorted to a thatched roof terminal, and were greeted with thousands of chirping sociable weaver birds. The eco-adventure had begun!
What sets Tswalu apart is not so much its red sand dunes and sprawling grasslands — though those certainly make for spectacular viewing — but the completely relaxed pace and tasteful motse (the local Tswana word for "village") that create a safari unlike any other I've experienced. After checking into one of the eight spacious legae — "little houses" — you'll have to pry yourself from your sun terrace in order to take in the game which you've theoretically come to see. No detail has been overlooked, and while the suites are utterly simple (think minimalist contemporary furnishings mixed with traditional African baskets and art) the details — outdoor showers and big, open fireplaces — make them special.
Tswalu offers a bespoke safari experience. Gone are the 5 a.m. wake-up calls (unless you want them), endless off-schedule meals, and the quest for the Big Five. Tswalu — a thousand-square-kilometer reserve that is a labor of love for the Oppenheimer family — is all about conservation and land use, as well as the pursuit of animals that are not easily found elsewhere. Enormous black-maned Kalahari lions dazzle. So do families of frolicking meerkats, elegant giraffes strolling across open plains, and the elusive aardvark. It is also a birder's paradise, with over two hundred rare species readily on view. There is no sense of imminent danger here and that makes Tswalu what I refer to as "safari lite": you will constantly see, do, and learn, but without the threat of being some animal's next meal.
The guides and trackers are top-notch ecologists who lead safaris in a Land Rover, on horseback, or even on foot so that you can get up close to nature. Tracking takes on new meaning here. Our guide was happy to alight from the vehicle, rifle in hand, and bushwhack until he found prides of lions and desert black rhinos languishing in the mid-day sun. Other highlights included sleeping under the stars, eating a delicious lunch by the motse pool, and receiving authentic spa treatments that incorporate indigenous red dune sand, desert minerals, and botanical fibres. Add to this the absence of malaria and a warm community comprised of 142 staff members (plus a peek into their eco-friendly housing, preschool, dedicated health clinic, and adult literacy programmes) and you get a real sense of how Tswalu is transforming this massive area, in terms of both environmental conservation and education.
With only twenty guests at a time, Tswalu feels more like an intimate, low-key house party than a Relais & Chateaux nestled at the foot of the Korannaberg Mountains. Its stated mission is "to restore the Kalahari to itself"; and I left this magical place feeling as though I'd been restored to myself as well.
Finding Peace in Porto Ercole, Italy
Just off the Tuscan coastline equidistant to Rome and Florence lies Monte Argentario, a bizarrely-shaped peninsula connected to the mainland by three narrow strips of land. Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly and her family checked into Il Pellicano, a posh hotel in Porto Ercole on the southern end of the island.
Just off the Tuscan coastline equidistant to Rome and Florence lies Monte Argentario, a bizarrely-shaped peninsula connected to the mainland by three narrow strips of land. Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly and her family checked into Il Pellicano, a posh hotel in Porto Ercole on the southern end of the island.
There are a few places left on earth where genocide, the crumbling euro, and any sort of reality simply cease to exist. Il Pellicano, a luxurious yet laid back bolthole on Italy's Tuscan coast, is one such place. It's personal and cool, which makes it endearing. And it's a little shabby chic, which means there definitely won't be rappers or Russian oligarchs occupying the next beach chair.
My family and I recently spent a few languid days of sun, spa, and signature jumbo club sandwiches delivered poolside. Dolce vita indeed.
WHAT TO DO
Not too much. This is Italy, after all, where the stars of a "big" day are your iconic yellow-and-white pool lounger and copious amounts of the hotel's freshly squeezed succhi di frutta (apricot, peach, and blueberry varieties are excellent).
This is the place to quietly read, reflect, and play the odd game of tennis or backgammon. The most strenuous decision you'll encounter is whether to take a day trip on Pellicano's elegant wooden boat, Riva (so Med!), from the private, cliff-side dock or whether to order local langoustines for lunch.
Despite its price point (25 euros for a sandwich), Il Pellicano feels small, chic, and casual, with a library, DVDs, tennis rackets, and ping pong paddles all for communal use.
Definitely take it off campus at least once to explore nearby towns like Pitigliano, where you'll find Etruscan ruins and typical Tuscan trattorias. And Sovana, a medieval village with a wonderful palazzo and picturesque pizzas. Kids will love Il Giardino dei Tarocchi ("Tarot Garden"), Niki de Saint Phalle's brightly-colored sculptural park. Natural Park of Maremma is a wonderful place to see wildlife and explore the area on horseback.
MANGIARE BENE
Food is, naturally, a major focus of any Italian day, and the options here will not disappoint. Everything is delicious and locally sourced: the enormous breakfast served on an idyllic terrace, lunch al fresco at the Tuscan PelliGrill, and lavish, two-Michelin-starred Il Pellicano Ristorante. What this place really has going for it is that they serve food that you really want to eat — gazpacho, insalata caprese, and spaghetti alla chitarra ai frutti di mare (seafood galore) — and not overdone, complicated dishes.
That said, when the craving for a plain, wood-fired pizza strikes, you won't find it here. This is when you head into town for dinner on the charming Porto Ercole harbor, where you'll find a bustling, yet low-key nightlife that is focused on families wandering the piers and eating in outdoor trattorias. The best among these are Gambero Rosso and La Lampara (Lungo Mare Andrea Doria, 68; +39-0564-833024), where you'll eat the homemade pastas, line-caught seabass, and crispy pizzas that inspired your trip in the first place.
DON'T MISS
The chairs at the water's edge at Il Pellicano afford views of the deep, blue sea with majestic islands dotted across the horizon. This is the perfect place to watch scantily clad Europeans slather themselves in oil, light the occasional cigarette, and gesticulate wildly as they speak many different languages. Two days, and you'll feel completely removed from any worries you may have had going in.
The spa and gift shop are also pretty wonderful at Il Pellicano. The carefully curated store has Eres bathing suits, Anya Hindmarch bags with Porto Ercole imagery, and perfectly floaty sarongs that play well in this part of the world. This being Italy, the entire gym is yours to use — even at peak hours — which is a nice touch at such a small resort. Luxurious (if wildly expensive) massages and pedicures are also available with minimal advance notice.
If ever there were a place to sip tropical cocktails, it's at All'Aperto Bar, conveniently located between the pool and the main house. Watch dusk give way to starry skies with a summer Bellini (and at 23 Euros per, you might want just one) and raise a glass to your good fortune.
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO
There are a variety of room types at Il Pellicano. None work particularly well for families as they do not inter-connect. Then again, this place doesn't have kid-friendly written all over it any way, which I mean in the best possible way.
If you're looking for value for money, get a garden view room, which has a pleasant terrace and views of the tennis court or surrounding mountain landscape. Stunning rooms with sea views will more than triple the price but are ideal for special, secluded stays.
The drinks and snacks in the mini bar are free — though not much else is. Bring a bottle of water or an aranciata with you to the pool, and you'll save approximately 9 euros a pop.
GETTING THERE
Fly: One of the selling points of Porto Ercole — and the Maremma area of Tuscany in general — is its ease of execution on the travel front. Fly to Rome or Florence and you're gazing out over the sea in just under two hours.
Drive: The resort is on a cliff and it's not near much. You'll absolutely need to rent a car to get to there and to explore the small towns.
FIND IT
Il Pellicano
Località Sbarcatello
58019 Porto Ercole
Grosseto, Italy
+39-0564-858111
reservations@pellicanohotels.com
South Africa's Luxe and Low-Key Tswalu Redefines the Safari
Subtly luxurious lodgings and top-knotch guides come together to perfectly redefine "safari." Contributing editor Christina Ohly has her ultimate bespoke safari experience.
Subtly luxurious lodgings and top-knotch guides come together to perfectly redefine "safari." Contributing editor Christina Ohly has her ultimate bespoke safari experience.
KALAHARI DESERT, South Africa – From the moment I arrived at the Johannesburg airport for the flight to Tswalu, a truly unique game reserve located in the southern part of the Kalahari Desert, I knew this one was going to be different. My family and I boarded their luxurious Pilatus plane for the one-and-a-half hour hop to Tswalu's dedicated airstrip, warmly welcomed and escorted to a thatched roof terminal, and were greeted with thousands of chirping sociable weaver birds. The eco-adventure had begun!
What sets Tswalu apart is not so much its red sand dunes and sprawling grasslands — though those certainly make for spectacular viewing — but the completely relaxed pace and tasteful motse (the local Tswana word for "village") that create a safari unlike any other I've experienced. After checking into one of the eight spacious legae — "little houses" — you'll have to pry yourself from your sun terrace in order to take in the game which you've theoretically come to see. No detail has been overlooked, and while the suites are utterly simple (think minimalist contemporary furnishings mixed with traditional African baskets and art) the details — outdoor showers and big, open fireplaces — make them special.
Tswalu offers a bespoke safari experience. Gone are the 5 a.m. wake-up calls (unless you want them), endless off-schedule meals, and the quest for the Big Five. Tswalu — a thousand-square-kilometer reserve that is a labor of love for the Oppenheimer family — is all about conservation and land use, as well as the pursuit of animals that are not easily found elsewhere. Enormous black-maned Kalahari lions dazzle. So do families of frolicking meerkats, elegant giraffes strolling across open plains, and the elusive aardvark. It is also a birder's paradise, with over two hundred rare species readily on view. There is no sense of imminent danger here and that makes Tswalu what I refer to as "safari lite": you will constantly see, do, and learn, but without the threat of being some animal's next meal.
The guides and trackers are top-notch ecologists who lead safaris in a Land Rover, on horseback, or even on foot so that you can get up close to nature. Tracking takes on new meaning here. Our guide was happy to alight from the vehicle, rifle in hand, and bushwhack until he found prides of lions and desert black rhinos languishing in the mid-day sun. Other highlights included sleeping under the stars, eating a delicious lunch by the motse pool, and receiving authentic spa treatments that incorporate indigenous red dune sand, desert minerals, and botanical fibres. Add to this the absence of malaria and a warm community comprised of 142 staff members (plus a peek into their eco-friendly housing, preschool, dedicated health clinic, and adult literacy programmes) and you get a real sense of how Tswalu is transforming this massive area, in terms of both environmental conservation and education.
With only twenty guests at a time, Tswalu feels more like an intimate, low-key house party than a Relais & Chateaux nestled at the foot of the Korannaberg Mountains. Its stated mission is "to restore the Kalahari to itself"; and I left this magical place feeling as though I'd been restored to myself as well.
FIND IT
Tswalu Kalahari
+27-0-53-781-9331
res@tswalu.com
Bahamas with the Kids: Harbour Island Essentials
It's not that this three-mile stretch of sand in the Bahamas is unknown. It’s that Harbour Island's relative inaccessibility has kept developers, big hotels, and obnoxious types away. Their loss is your gain: delicious food, the most pristine pink sand beach on the planet, just enough nightlife, and a pleasingly international vibe. (Nassau is an easy flight from Europe, which explains the Brits, the Italians, the French.) The perfect mix of local warmth and nice amenities, Harbour Island is a far cry from the kids clubs and sprawling spas so common at mega resorts. In other words, the island may be pricey, but that won’t stop the chickens and lizards from wandering across your patio.
WHERE TO STAY
The two-bedroom casitas at Pink Sands are great for families. The Balinese vibe was cultivated by the former owner, British music exec-turned-hotelier Chris Blackwell, and it leaves you feeling even farther away. The beach is gorgeous and the water is calm, clear, and shallow. Just down the path is Blue Bar, great for patio dining overlooking the sea — and for a Goombay Smash, the killer Bahamian rum drink that will kick anyone's ass. Coral Sands next door is under the same management and is another good option for cool parents and kids. Both properties have saltwater pools, but neither has fancy fitness facilities.
WHERE TO EAT
Head to town. The Landing is incomparable: amazing local ingredients (langoustines, grouper, fresh chicken curry), refined yet simple cuisine, a beautiful setting under trees, twinkling lights. Kids love the easy feeling of the India Hicks-backed venture; parents love lazing on outdoor settees aside the odd luminary. The Rolling Stones, Lenny Kravitz, Uma and Arki — all island regulars. (For more info, read The Landing postcard.) Mornings must begin with freshly baked Bahamian herb bread or croissants at Arthur's Bakery.
When you’re ready for a night without the progeny, ask Pink Sands to call a sweet sitter and head to Rock House for the gay/Euro/fabulous scene and the cuisine. Here, too, the focus is on fresh, locally caught fish and ingredients. The crowd stays late, lounging on couches around a central, sleek pool area. How totally Ibiza.
WHAT TO DO
My kids loved taking a guided boat ride with Duke, a local conch and bone fisherman. Just ask for him at the town dock. The affable Duke picks up starfish, follows sea turtles, and finds shallow bays where kids can swim. Golf carts are de riguer on Harbour Island, and what kid doesn’t love a golf cart? The snorkeling is terrific, as is watching the conch guys come in with the day’s catch and clean the beautiful shells. It won’t take much to make you happy here.
WHERE TO SHOP
All ages love the Dilly Dally, located at the main intersection in town, for Bahamamian straw goods, "briland" tees, postcards, and jewelry and ornaments crafted from pink conch shells. (In other words, the irresistible trinkets you buy on holiday and start questioning on the plane ride home.) India Hicks' Sugar Mill is the glamorous source for caftans, European finds, and beach gear. Ditto the Blue Rooster on King Street, where you'll find gorgeous sundresses, scarves, and unique sandals. Even a trip to mini-supermarket The Piggly Wiggly is good fun, just to see what came in on the boat from the mainland that day.
First Look: Bahia Vik, Jose Ignacio
Bahia Vik, set to open any day now in Jose Ignacio, is already poised to be one of the hottest destinations of the winter season. Contributing editor Christina Ohly was one of the first to get a look around.
Bahia Vik, set to open any day now in Jose Ignacio, is already poised to be one of the hottest destinations of the winter season. Contributing editor Christina Ohly was one of the first to get a look around.
JOSE IGNACIO, Uruguay – If you're looking for the ultimate sunset, overlooking ten acres of sprawling dunes, then Bahia Vik has your name written all over it.
CHECKING IN
Set to open in winter 2014 in time for high season, the hotel is a perfect compliment to Vik Retreats sister properties Playa Vik, just down the beach, and Estancia Vik, their equestrian "farm" situated inland. Bahia Vik features contemporary Uruguayan art, sleek furnishings, and minimalist pools at every turn. Environmentally friendly casitas are understated yet luxurious at the same time and everything tastefully melds into the the oceanfront landscape.
In the Room
Eleven unique bungalows and 37 guest rooms and suites range in style and finish, but each incorporates indigenous Uruguayan woods and grey slate for an overall sleek aesthetic. Art remains a huge focus for at any Vik (don't miss the James Turrell light installation at Playa Vik next door), and here the exuberant artwork is not only decorative, but real conversation starters as well.
Room with a View
Rooms are wildly expensive in the high season, but you get what you pay for, and every service is top-notch yet low-key at the same time. I stayed in a two-bedroom suite with my preteen kids who loved the big, comfortable beds and excellent snacks.
What's on Site
I love a hotel with separate swimming pools for kids and adults, as it takes the pressure off everyone involved. Not that you need a pool, as Magna beach at your doorstep has gentle surf and some of the best South American people watching you'll find anywhere. (Microscopic bikinis are de rigueur.) Bahia guests can horseback ride at the nearby Estancia property or stroll down the dunes for a perfectly grilled hamburger or fresh sushi at the Vik's La Susana restaurant. In addition, a state-of-art spa and a well-appointed gym offer healthy diversions (no lines at the latter!).
The Food
Breakfast includes a complimentary buffet of yogurts, cheeses, and freshly baked local delicacies, but fluffy omelettes and pancakes appear in record time as well. Soy latte? Gluten intolerance? Nothing seems to throw this crew off, and they are genuinely happy to please every palate.
This Place Is Perfect for
Anyone with a pulse. Families are in full effect at the holidays, but honeymooners can find peace and quiet in sun-filled courtyards and poolside.
But Not So Perfect For
A recluse. Although why would one come here in the first place? Jose Ignacio is about wonderful, communal asados, parties, and long days spent at the beach or on horseback. If you're Type A or in a hurry, best to give this a pass.
History, Hollywood, Heaven: San Ysidro Ranch
Contributing editor Christina Ohly has a knack for finding the world's loveliest hotels. She's found her ultimate in Montecito, California.
Contributing editor Christina Ohly has a knack for finding the world's loveliest hotels. She's found her ultimate in Montecito, California.
SANTA BARBARA, California – History, old Hollywood, and hospitality in the extreme meet at San Ysidro Ranch, a citrus farm-turned-luxury hideaway nestled in the foothills above Montecito. I have wanted to visit this special hotel for years — and even noted it on my Fathom travel wish list — primarily because I'd heard such wonderful things about the food (almost all of it locally sourced), the laid-back atmosphere combined with scrupulous attention to detail, and the scenic hiking trails that surround the sprawling, 500-acre spread. I was not disappointed on any front, and San Ysidro Ranch has shot to the number one position on my list of favorite hotels of all time. We're talking an overall outstanding user experience — a 12 on a scale of 1-10. There are not adequate words to describe the perfection you'll find here, but it's an understatement to say that San Ysidro is worth a detour, a long weekend, a honeymoon, a mellow family vacation, or all of the above. We're talking Nirvana here.
It all begins upon check-in, which isn't really a registration at all, as you are greeted in the driveway and whisked straight to your lovely yet low-key cottage. No pesky paperwork here. They cater to a clientele that likes privacy: Silicon Valley techpreneurs, Hollywood starlets.
Our home for three days — and you really do feel as if the house is yours — came complete with sumptuous robes, stacks of reading material, and freshly made snacks at every turn. The difference here is in the little touches: endless chips and salsa, local wines on ice, crisp copies of the Financial Times at the crack of dawn. Nothing has been overlooked, and sitting on my bougainvillea-laden porch watching the sunset with a cold Diet Coke in hand was simply perfection.
Each cottage is decorated differently, and whether you're in the most basic one-bedroom or in the spacious Ty Warner Cottage (so named after the current owner and Beanie Baby entrepreneur), the bathrooms have soaring ceilings and tubs that are made for soaking. The décor is not the least bit slick or mod, but rather country chic, which only adds to the overall charm and ambience.
The main hacienda — the reception area — was once the focal part of the ranch and now provides a spacious place for people to commune with others (never happens), play board games, and enjoy a constant supply of warm cookies. You're likely to run into Seamus McManus, an Irishman and a consummate hotelier who is happy to share stories about the Ranch and its celebrity-studded past: Audrey Hepburn, Bing Crosby, Winston Churchill, and President and Jackie Kennedy all spent time here, and Hollywood's A-list now comes with kids in tow.
The highlights (and there are so many) are the hotel's two restaurants — the slightly more formal Stonehouse and the relaxed Plow & Angel, where farm-to-table eating takes on a whole new meaning. Much of the produce is grown on the Ranch's organic garden and the cuisine is simply top-notch — and brilliantly simple. I had some of the best wood-fired pizzas and sashimi I've ever tasted beneath an arbor of twinkling orange trees. This being wine country, the lists are extensive, and the sommeliers are approachable and happy to educate anyone (my curious kids included) about local vintages and $5,000 bottles alike. Breakfast is not served in either restaurant, as guests typically prefer to take it in their rooms in front of the fireplace or on their front porch with sweeping views and fragrant magnolia and orange blossoms.
There are more than seventeen miles of manicured yet challenging hiking trails that run through the property, as well as a minimalist-chic hilltop pool that I could easily spend a month lolling beside.
With 360° degree views of the Santa Ynez Mountains and the Pacific Ocean, San Ysidro Ranch will make you forget civilization in the best possible way. You'll only interact with other guests as you'd like. I can still see the California light, taste the scrumptious food, and feel the gentle warmth of that Santa Barbara sun. I'm hoping my Zen lasts until I can return to this utterly tasteful, tranquil spot.
PLAN YOUR TRIP
Fly: Santa Barbara Municipal Airport is 15 miles away. Otherwise, Los Angeles is about 100 miles south. San Ysidro Ranch is located just off Highway 101.
FIND IT
San Ysidro Ranch
900 San Ysidro Lane
Santa Barbara, CA
+1-805-565-1700
guestservice@sanysidrorancy.com
sanysidroranch.com