An inspired website of woven furniture

Atelier Vime offers vintage and contemporary wicker and rattan creations from its historic South of France base

From the heart of Provence comes an online emporium bursting with beautiful furniture, lighting and decorative objects, almost all crafted from wicker and rattan. Atelier Vime is based in the small village of Vallabrègues, in what was once a grand 18th-century family home before morphing into a vibrant wicker workshop in 1878. Reviving both this historic building and its accompanying craftsmanship are Anthony Watson and Benoit Rauzy, who together created Atelier Vime in 2016 to showcase fine vintage examples – important Gio Ponti and Tito Agnoli chairs, for example. Next they paired up with designer Raphaëlle Hanley to create an accompanying contemporary collection produced by their own craftsmen in wicker harvested from the surrounding Camargue region. 

Rattan XXL Aramis Suspension light, €2,840

There are bold statement-making pieces such as the XXL Aramis Suspension light (€2,840), appealing to a growing global clientele that includes noted interior designers Pierre Yovanovitch (who commissioned a huge light for a Tel Aviv project) and Francis Sultana. Lighting is a strongpoint – from the large sun-like Gabriel Suspension light (90cm diameter, €980; 150cm, €1,380) to the smaller and simpler Solo Cone pendant €340) and Edith floor lamp (€980). There are also retro-chic Constellation mirrors (€995) and fine wickerwork baskets (price on request) traditionally braided into octagonal forms. 

c1960 Italian rattan and brass desk, price on request

These new designs are mostly handmade to order, with production taking eight to 10 weeks, but the site’s robust vintage section is full of gems ready to be shipped worldwide – be it a rare 1960s rope and glass table Mod lamp (price on request), a c1960 Italian rattan and brass desk (price on request), a c1950 pair of emerald-coloured rattan satellite-style chairs (price on request) or a 1947 wood and straw bed (price on request) by the famed French pioneer of modernism Charlotte Perriand.

A long weekend in Zürich with Daniel Humm

The chef behind Manhattan’s world-beating Eleven Madison Park talks his hometown’s finest – from church spires to scrumptious bratwurst – with Christina Ohly Evans.

When people think of Zürich, it’s often banks or high-end watches that come to mind, but really it’s a historic, intimate city with an incredible quality of life. What makes it so special – besides the surrounding nature and the fact that it’s so central in Europe – is the Swiss. They’re just good citizens, always polite and respectful of the rules. Most people here speak four languages – or two at a minimum – and travel extensively, which gives them a worldly perspective that I don’t always find elsewhere.

What’s also wonderful about Zürich is that it hasn’t changed: the medieval houses and the Fraumünster church in the old town, with its green steeple, have been left totally alone. These buildings were beautiful when built, and strict architectural codes mean they will remain that way forever. There have been enhancements over time, of course, and the infrastructure is just incredible: trains, trams and buses all run on time, and are all clean and safe – in fact, I don’t think there’s a better public transport system anywhere on earth. To illustrate the point, I took a recent trip on a Swiss train and it ran 12 minutes behind schedule; the conductor explained over the intercom that this delay was due to a problem on the French side, not theirs. The Swiss are never late.

St Peter Church at Christmas time

We are a small country surrounded by Germany, Austria, France and Italy, so there are many influences in terms of culture and food, but at the end of the day we are farmers and that’s reflected in our classic cuisine. You don’t come to Zürich so much for global cuisine, but for sausages and rösti – which have a real sense of place. I don’t want to eat sushi here. 

Visitors have a lot of choices when it comes to great hotels. The family-run Baur au Lac is one of my favourites; it’s a really traditional place, not flashy at all, with beautiful views of Lake Zürich and the Alps. It’s good if you need to access the financial district, or for shopping on the nearby Bahnhofstrasse. Its fine-dining restaurant, Pavillon, is in a sort of indoor garden; I always make a point of eating here because the chef is so talented. While the menu changes frequently, his food is always elevated but with a classic foundation.

Another great place to stay is the Widder Hotel in the old town. It’s made up of a series of medieval townhouses that have been cobbled together, and it strikes the balance between old and new perfectly. There are only 49 rooms here and each one is different from the others: some have views of the surrounding cobblestone streets and others have unexpected touches, such as an iconic Eames chair. Taken all together, it’s quite charming. The Storchen Zürich, right on the River Limmat, falls into this quaint category too. It has existed since the 14th century, and while the hotel was recently updated, its signature storks can still be found on the walls and the views of the church spires are fantastic.

Of course, food is central to any Zürich experience, so I like to start the day at John Baker. Yes, that is literally the name of the best bakery in Zürich: it’s co-owned by Jens Jung, an artisan who comes from a long line of bakers – he spent some time at the wonderful Tartine in San Francisco, where he learnt from the best, before coming back here to make breads according to Swiss traditions. Another win for breakfast is the café Confiserie Sprüngli. I particularly like the cakes, the colourful Luxemburgerli macaroons and the chocolate truffle-filled brioche. One of those with a morning cappuccino, is perfection.

The Limmat river flows through the old town

Konditorei culture is very important in Zürich life. Café Schober is a very cute, authentic spot that serves an excellent Gugelhupf, a traditional cake made with almonds and raisins, while Teuscher is the place to go for every imaginable type of chocolate – and a good coffee.

When it comes to restaurants, it’s best to approach things by type of cuisine. Kronenhalle is an institution and in addition to great (and authentically Swiss) food, you’re surrounded by masterpieces by the likes of Picasso and Rauschenberg – even the lights are by Alberto Giacometti. The bar here is an ideal place for a cocktail and beef tartare, before moving on to a dinner of sliced veal with rösti. The service is very old-school; I think it’s an absolute must.

Kronenhalle is a Zürich institution decorated with works by Picasso and Rauschenberg

For a truly Alpine feel, I like Obere Flühgasse in the old town. It’s really tiny, all done in warm woods – and the mixed salad with bacon, consommé and rösti feels very local. In winter, I always order vermicelles – a dessert made of chestnut purée that’s very specific to Switzerland. I had a magnificent steak frites at Wystube Isebähnli, a 25-seat bistro in the old town with a big focus on wines as well (the menu, created using seasonal produce, changes every week). The best food in town, however, is at the bratwurst restaurant Sternen Grill – every local knows this place. It’s great for a veal sausage with a beer, not to mention top people-watching – you’ll see people from all walks of life here.

Beyond the excellent food, this is a city of great churches and museums. The Grossmünster, with its windows by Sigmar Polke, is one of its monumental highlights. St Peter church – which can boast having Europe’s largest tower clock face – is another one to see, as is Fraumünster, which has those beautiful stained-glass windows created expressly for the church by Marc Chagall in the 1970s.

49-room Widder Hotel is made up of a series of medieval townhouses

Whenever I come back from New York, I stock up on things that can only be found here and think it’s a good way to shop. Among the first stops should be Schwarzenbach, purveyor of all kinds of teas, spices, vanilla, dried exotic fruits, nuts and jams. They’re very knowledgeable and I go there to learn. Buchbinderei, a tiny paper store in the old town, is exceptional for stationery and handmade cards. Another one that’s a definite must is the Odeon Apotheke, a gorgeous pharmacy and a good place to buy all kinds of Swiss skincare by super-local brands. 

For really motivated shoppers, the 40km drive to Vitra stockist Betz, in Schauffhausen, is totally worthwhile for the Jean Prouvé designs alone. There’s also the Markthalle under the old viaduct in Zürich-West – it’s kind of like London’s Borough Market meets Manhattan’s High Line – and there are all kinds of shops and food vendors tucked into the old arches. It’s fun to see how a formerly industrial part of Zürich has evolved into something very cool.

In terms of cultural institutions, it’s hard to beat either the Kunsthaus Zürich – with its permanent collection that includes works by Cy Twombly and Mark Rothko – or the Pavillon Le Corbusier. This is the last building the architect designed before he died, and it’s a mixture of glass, steel and colourful panels that contrast beautifully with the nature all around. For contemporary art, it’s Hauser & Wirth, set in a great, lofty warehouse space in a relatively unknown part of town, but always showcasing the greats of today.

Outdoor life is another big focus here. People hike, bike and swim in the Limmat river in summer. One of the best places to engage with nature like a local is Flussbad Oberer Letten, near Zürich-West. This is basically a public swimming pool with decking and places to eat, drink or just relax. To get a mix of art and nature, visit the Zürichhorn – a massive public park where you can walk along the shore of the lake and where you’ll find the humorous Heureka sculpture by Jean Tinguely. During the winter months you can travel just one hour from the city and you’ll be skiing.

Because Zürich is so international there are obviously lots of outside influences coming in, but my hope is that the city and its people will focus on the unique things it has to offer. The level of taste here, the overall aesthetic, is so on point, never overdone; you can see it in the work of such brilliant Swiss architects as Peter Zumthor and Herzog & de Meuron. And the cuisine! The cheeses, the yoghurt, the meats; they are really some of the finest in the world. The city should continue to celebrate them, instead of importing sushi. 

Meet Fathom Contributor Christina Ohly

Hometown: Currently NYC, but I consider London home as well. I was born in Washington, DC, but raised in Woodstock, Vermont.

Occupation: Writer and consultant.

Favorite destinations: Too many to mention. Italy: both city (Rome, Florence) and country (Umbria, Tuscany, Ischia, Amalfi anywhere); France: Paris, near St. Remy; Spain; Harbour Island, Bahamas; most of New England but particularly coastal Rhode Island; California, both south (I love LA) and north (SF, Santa Barbara, Napa).

Dying to visit: India, Mozambique, Argentina, Fogo Island, the Scottish Highlands, and Shanghai. Again, the list is endless.

Bizarre travel rituals: I pack so much food because you never know and I can't stand gross, processed foods. In my cold sack, you'll find fruit, vegetables, Wasa crackers, and cheese sticks. I've clearly been stuck on one tarmac too many. I also start packing (clothes, not food) many days in advance, then edit the bag at least three times leading up to the trip.

In-flight relaxation regime: Watching an entire season of something mindless (cooking shows, anything BBC, any of the Real Housewives) on my iPad on long-haul flights. I read stacks of magazines and newspapers — fashion and travel top the list, but I love it all, from international editions of Vogue to The FT to cheesy celeb weeklies and back issues of The New Yorker.

Always in carry-on: BlackBerry; disinfecting hand wipes; snacks (Zone bars, crackers, gum); Le Métier de Beauté lip gloss; hair ties; and a wallet with pictures of my kids, cash, and my lucky charm — a horseshoe pin given to me by my grandmother.

Concierge or DIY? DIY for most things, especially flights because I tend to change them and like dealing with airlines directly. I am happy to outsource restaurants to a hotel person, though OpenTable has changed the playing field.

See it all or take it easy? See it all. I am not so great at relaxing and I hate to miss a meal, a shop, an experience.

Drive or be driven? Both. I love taxis and taxi drivers, as they provide so much local color, history, and great food knowledge — though, of course, this is destination-specific.

Travel hero: My husband. He can get stuck in China, do weird back-to-back redeyes via L.A. and Dallas, and still remain cheerful. He doesn't get flustered, doesn't freak out about the weather, and is always kind. He just goes with the global travel flow.

Weirdest thing seen on travels: I've seen some seriously bad behavior on the NYC to Florida flight routes. It is amazing to see the screaming, yelling, and bad manners that people will throw at an unsuspecting flight attendant. But the weirdest/saddest was seeing a drug mule pulled off a plane. It was later explained to us that law enforcement can spot mules because they are so uncomfortable in Western clothing and are often wearing new shoes. The poor guy looked beyond terrified; it was all quite a circus.

Best hotel amenity: Packed lunches for the plane at Curtain Bluff, Antigua; wellies and mud gear at The Mayflower Inn and Spa, Washington, Connecticut; the freshest fruit plates at The Hotel Caruso, Ravello, Italy.

I dream about my meals at Zuma in London (I love their black miso cod and robata grill dishes) and The Polo Lounge in LA (chopped salads are divine). I even love a simple plate of lentils at NYC's Fairway Cafe or the best poppy seed bagels in the world at 72nd Street Bagels on the Upper West Side. It's a dive but totally delicious!

Everywhere I go I check out the food markets — from supermarkets to farmer's markets to bakeries, butchers, cheesemongers.

When I arrive in a new place, I learn the lay of the land by walking, eating in restaurants full of local color, and talking to taxi drivers.

I always bring home some article of clothing reminiscent of a country, a piece of jewelry, and a Christmas tree ornament or two for my family's tree. I always forget the fruit in my bag, which doesn't go over too well at customs these days.

If I never return to Russia, it'll be too soon because I almost starved to death there. I am a big consumer of fruit and vegetables and these were fairly tough to come by.

I travel for the local color. I love hearing people's stories, seeing their daily routines, and learning about their cultures.

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Christina Ohly Evans for Elle Decor

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“Tokyo’s Trunk Hotel is like a chic LA friend’s house”

A cool Shibuya lunch spot with first-rate people-watching potential

I am definitely not edgy enough for Tokyo’s Trunk Hotel, a design-led boutique bolthole-cum-social spot in the subculture capital of Shibuya, but I loved it all the same. I came here for lunch on a local recommendation and was immediately taken with the space. Consisting of two discrete, four-storey structures in a proliferation of natural materials conceived by Mount Fuji Architects Studio, this laidback hotel offers a zen respite from the bustle of colourful manga cafés, Izakaya gastropubs and karaoke venues just beyond.  

Grilled meat skewers at Trunk Kushi restaurant | Image: Trunk Hotel

As I walked into the welcoming communal spaces and dining areas, Trunk struck me as being like a cool LA friend’s house, with a clientele of tastemakers from the worlds of fashion, design and technology adding to the ultra-hip vibe. I arrived early for lunch, so kicked back in the lounge to indulge in a spot of people-watching. The street fashion and overall diversity in the lobby space were completely fascinating; even if you just come for a drink, I highly recommend grabbing a spot on one of the leather-lined sofas and taking it all in. 

Trunk provides an alternative to Tokyo’s skyscraper hotels | Image: Trunk Hotel

Dishes from a seasonal set menu, from about £20, at Trunk Kitchen | Image: Trunk Hotel

It’s also well worth staying on for lunch or dinner, as the food is the real standout at Trunk. There are two restaurants, both of which I sampled during my brief visit. Traditional Shibuya soul food is the star of the show at Trunk Kushi, where local restaurateur Yuji Tani oversees the local speciality of grilled meat skewers, but it was Trunk Kitchen that won my heart. First, the setting overlooking the hotel’s serene terrace is stunning; second, its fusion menu really hits the spot. After a week of sushi and heavy tempura, the simply grilled fish with Edo vegetables, and a perfectly seared Wagyu burger – washed down with the hotel’s own-brand beer produced by Tokyo’s venerable Ishikawa Brewery – were exactly what I was craving. 

The Terrace Suite, from about £4,800 | Image: Trunk Hotel

I also took a quick tour of the hotel – from its modernist chapel to some of its 15 spacious rooms and suites. The sleek Terrace Suite (from about £4,800) with its sprawling patio is particularly appealing, but all the rooms, decked out in a neutral palette with plenty of glass and dark wood, offer a slice of Japanese serenity. This low-key alternative to the city’s abundant skyscraper hotels is without a doubt where I will be staying on my next trip to Tokyo.

The Aesthete: Pierre Yovanovitch talks personal taste

The interior architect designs art-filled, ultra-refined yet sensuous homes and retail and gallery spaces for global clients such as Kering

Pierre Yovanovitch at home in Paris | Image: Emmanuel Fradin

My personal style signifiers are my shoes by Pierre Hardy, some of which reference the work of major artists, and my mostly Dries Van Noten wardrobe. I’m a low-key person, so my clothing and accessories tend to be fashionable yet classic. My Mylon glasses by Mykita – the first item I put on in the morning – are another signature of mine: they’re ultra-light and the matte finish is in keeping with my simple aesthetic. driesvannoten.be. mykita.com. pierrehardy.com.

Pierre Hardy leather Oxfords, €795

The last thing I bought and loved was a ceramic vase by the American artist Karin Gulbran. It’s a very abstract, minimal, light-blue and brown vessel that works with the neutral colour palette I love. From $13,000; Pierre Marie Giraud, 7 Rue de Praetere, 1050 Brussels (+322-503 0351; pierremariegiraud.com). 

And the thing I’m eyeing next is a “nest” seat by the South African designer Porky Hefer. His one-of-a-kind pieces are made from cane and rattan, and I’d love one for an outdoor space at my château in Provence; it would make the perfect reading nook. Fallen Nest, £11,000; animal-farm.co.za. 

Ceramic vase by Karin Gulbran, pieces from $13,000

The last thing I added to my wardrobe was a half-length wool coat from Acne that I bought in New York. It’s stylish, simple and in a rich navy blue. As I get older, I think blue clothing is generally much better than black. £900; acnestudios.com.

Fallen Nest seat by Porky Hefer, £11,000

The best gift I’ve received recently was an intricate “eye” embroidery by Lesage Intérieurs, given to me by Jean-François Lesage, grandson of the maison’s founder. This astonishing piece was commissioned for L’Erotomanie de Mlle Oops, the exhibition I conceived for the Toulon Design Parade last summer. It now hangs in my office. lesageinterieurs.com.

Cotton- and wool-thread, soft-wire and chenille “eye” embroidery by Lesage Intérieurs | Image: Sudakar

The site that inspires me is the Brother Klaus Field Chapel, in Mechernich, Germany, by the architect Peter Zumthor. Set in a remote field, this striking art chapel features a poured-concrete exterior and a beautiful triangle-shaped silver door. There is no roof, so when it rains, the water is collected inside, which adds to the spiritual atmosphere. Iversheimer Strasse, 53894 Mechernich (feldkapelle.de).

Brother Klaus Field Chapel, Mechernich

The people I rely on for personal grooming are Philippe Campana and his wife, Geneviève, at Louis G, a hidden hair salon in Paris’s 7th arrondissement. It’s a very discreet, no-fuss place – no music or anything too trendy. It still has the original 1970s feel and I like the very professional stylists who keep my longish hair that way. From €60; 4 Rue du Bourgogne, 75007 Paris (+331-4551 3039).

Ligne Blanche porcelain JM Basquiat Glenn tray

My favourite room in my house is my bedroom – spacious and sparsely decorated but still warm and inviting. In the 70sq m space there is only a large bed and two pieces of meditative art, along with lots of rough-hewn oak and natural light.

If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose the 1st arrondissement in Paris. Galerie Eric Philippe is wonderful for Scandinavian design, while Ligne Blanche is great for tabletop finds – especially the plates. The owner is passionate about art and does collaborations with the estates of Andy Warhol, Jean-Michel Basquiat and many others. Hermès is always a favourite for chic clothes and scarves. After all that shopping, I like Cibus – a tiny, really authentic Italian restaurant that serves the best organic, seasonal dishes, such as homemade linguine with wild mushrooms, or octopus with haricots verts. Cibus, 5 Rue Molière, 75001 (+331-4261 5019). Galerie Eric Philippe, 25 Galerie Véro-Dodat, 75001 (+331-4221 1793; ericphilippe.com). Hermès, 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 (+331-4017 4600; hermes.com). Ligne Blanche, 18 Galerie Véro-Dodat, 75001 (+331-4482 5748; ligneblancheparis.com). 

My favourite websites are all very visual. I often look at Jacksons, of Stockholm, for furnishings and Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac for inspiration. jacksons.se. ropac.net.

12 days of Christmas Yule logs

’Tis the season to indulge in a traditional bûche de Noël or Yule log. From classic woodland-inspired cakes to chic contemporary sculptures, these edible artworks can be enjoyed around the world…

Hôtel de Crillon Paris

Hôtel Crillon’s head pastry chef Pablo Gicquel took inspiration from the fluted columns of the palace hotel’s Suite Marie-Antoinette when creating this sweet treat. Gicquel’s pillar-shaped cake (€120) is infused with a rich blend of almonds, blueberries and blackcurrant jam hidden inside a Languedoc almond mousse. Serves six to eight; available from December 1 (+331-4471 1525; crillon-paris.com).

Hôtel Plaza Athénée Paris’ bûche de Noel is an edible forest | Image: Studio des Fleurs

Hôtel Plaza Athénée Paris

Executive pastry chef Angelo Musa – a winner of the World Pastry Cup and Best Craftsman in France award – and pastry chef Alexandre Dufeu have moved beyond the traditional design of the Christmas log to create an edible forest for their 2018 bûche de Noël (€120). Seven “snow”-covered trees, made from Madagascar vanilla cake, biscuit, cream and mousse, sit atop a dark chocolate mendicant bar covered with dried and crystallised fruit, creating a centrepiece that is a decadent alternative to the traditional pudding. Serves seven; available from December 1 (+331-5367 6597; dorchestercollection.com).

Le Meurice Paris’ bûche de Noël

Le Meurice Paris

This Christmas, pastry chef Cédric Grolet has designed two Yule logs (€50 or €98), both inspired by his signature chestnut-filled Mont Blanc dessert. The first cake combines chestnuts and mousse on a roasted chestnut base with hazelnut praline. The second delicacy – served only at Restaurant Le Dalí – features roasted chestnuts with a lemon-flavoured hazelnut praline for added zest. The first cake serves either three to four or six to eight people. The smoked chestnut log at Restaurant Le Dalí is available from December 5 to 31, every afternoon from 3.30pm to 6pm – except December 25 – at lunch or dinner for €25 per slice (dorchestercollection.com).

La Réserve Paris’s trompe l'oeil-inspired Yule log

Le Bristol Paris bûche de Noël

Le Royal Monceau – Raffles Paris

Maison Pierre Hermé Paris has created a sculptural Christmas Médélice cake (€126) for the grand Parisian hotel this Christmas that is reminiscent of a winter wonderland filled with snowy peaks and glaciers. The design is dusted with white chocolate “snow”, which melts in the mouth, giving way to layers of lemon cream, candied lemon and jelly, and hazelnut praline. Serves six; available from December 14 to 31 by reservation 48 hours in advance (+331-4299 8864; leroyalmonceau.com).

François Perret’s bûche de Noel for The Ritz Paris | Image: Aimery Chemin

Epicerie Boulud has a selection of Yule logs available in store this Christmas

La Réserve Paris

La Reserve’s two-Michelin-starred executive chef Jérôme Banctel and head pastry chef Adrien Salavert have combined their exceptional skills to create a golden Yule log (€95) inspired by the printed cordovan leather that lines the hotel’s Le Gabriel restaurant. Inside the gilded cake is a blend of Michel Reybier champagne and refreshing fruits: mango, passionfruit, pineapple and coconut. Serves six to eight; available until December 23 by reservation only (+331-5836 6060; lareserve-paris.com).

Park Hyatt Tokyo’s bûche de Noël is a Japanese take on Christmas cake

Pastry chef Dominique Costa has crafted a contemporary bûche de Noël with an Asian aesthetic for Peninsula Paris

Le Bristol Paris

Pastry chef Julien Alvarez, named World Pastry Cup champion in 2011, presents a feast for the eyes and table for 2018. His trompe l’oeil design is a truffle Yule log (€140) like no other. It presents as a wooden box with an engraved bronze plaque, which, on closer inspection, is in fact part of the cake – every inch edible. Inside, what appears to be truffles turn out to be sweet treats, made from soft biscuit and hazelnut with creamy hearts of gianduja (a sweet chocolate spread with hints of vanilla) and real black truffles. Serves eight; limited editions available from December 1 to 31 (+331-5343 4342 or email cafeantonia.lebristolparis@oetkercollection.com).

Mandarin Oriental Paris channels Alpine slopes and snow-covered firs with its Christmas treats | Image: Mathilde de l’Ecotais

Hotel Metropole Monte-Carlo crafted a culinary artwork with Le Bois dans Ecrin

The Ritz Paris

This year, The Ritz Christmas log (€110) is all about honey – specifically, the grand cru Erica variety sourced in the Pyrénées. Pastry chef François Perret has combined the delicacy with a Savoy sponge cake and whipped cream, topped with roasted gianduja almonds. The final pièce de résistance is a lacy wafer that is a nod to honeycomb dipped in chocolate. Serves six; available to order from December 1 (+331-4316 3274; ritzparis.com).

Epicerie Boulud New York

Daniel Boulud has created a selection of bûches de Noël for 2018 that are gourmet works of art. The colourful collection includes a Chocolate Caramel log decorated in gold leaf, which is a combination of Illanka tonka bean and dark chocolate mousse, caramel crémeux and flourless chocolate biscuit. The Exotique cake fuses passion fruit and banana mousse, roasted pineapple, mango confit and coconut dacquoise confection, while The Chestnut Blackberry Yule log is layered with mousse, blackberry gelée, chestnut biscuit, blackberry mousse and chestnut vermicelli. Last but not least is a chocolate and coffee Classic Opera cake topped with chocolate Santas. Serve six to eight; available to preorder and in stores from December 18 (epicerieboulud.com).

Park Hyatt Tokyo

The Bûche Tokyo (¥4,500, about £31) is a Japanese take on the Christmas cake. Think Uji matcha tea mousse, surrounding a centre of tangy yuzu curd, and matcha tea sponge layered with toasted sesame crunch, resting on a crisp sable biscuit. The finished creation is so beautiful, it’s almost shame to devour it… Serves three to four; available from December 21 to 25 (+813-5323 3462; hyatt.com).

Peninsula Paris

L’Ecrin (€98) by pastry chef Dominique Costa is a contemporary bûche de Noël with an Asian aesthetic, which is presented as a case that opens to reveal a delicious bûche. Sandalwood-smoked chocolate mousse smoothers a molten mandarin core, with a buckwheat crisp biscuit infused with dulce de leche. Serves six to eight; available by reservation 48 hours in advance from December 17 to 31 (+331-5812 2888; paris.peninsula.com).

Mandarin Oriental Paris

Chef pâtissier Adrien Bozzolo has created an elegant contemporary design inspired by Alpine slopes and snow-covered firs for Christmas 2018 (€78). The white chocolate trees rest on a crunchy biscuit filled with citrus fruit and pecans, and a mandarin orange marmalade flavoured with maple syrup. Serves eight; available to order 48 hours in advance from December 21 to 31 at the hotel’s Cake Shop (mandarinoriental.com).

Hotel Metropole Monte-Carlo

Executive chef Christophe Cussac and pastry chef Patrick Mesiano have conjured a culinary artwork in Le Bois dans écrin (€95) or “forest in a box”, which is “wrapped” in an edible carmine red box, revealing a realistic-looking “log” composed of biscuit with creamy cazette ultra fondant and a gourmet icing with chocolate and hazelnut chips. Available to order from December 10 (metropole@metropole.com).

The Aesthete: James Taffin de Givenchy talks personal taste

Maverick designer James Taffin de Givenchy’s spectacular high jewellery uses unexpected materials such as wood and rubber alongside precious gems

My personal style signifiers are the modern‑retro Jimmy watches of my own design that I have in all different colours: I wear a gold version for dressier occasions and a steel and titanium piece for a sporty feel. Also, my French-cuff shirts, which are made for me by Ascot Chang, and the cufflinks that I design using combinations of wood and gold, carved hard stones or ceramic and steel with gold. ascotchang.com. Watch, from $8,000; cufflinks, from $4,000; taffin.com. 

His Taffin watch, from $8,000 | Image: Weston Wells

The last thing I bought and loved was a vessel made of recycled plastic by the Brooklyn-based artist Shari Mendelson, whose pieces often resemble antique glass. This one is translucent with silver elements and is currently displayed in my showroom. sharimendelson.com. 

And the thing I’m eyeing next is a calligraphic painting by Mark Tobey. His work is truly modernist, in the Pollock style, and although I have two of his works, I’d love one more. 

Two pairs of cufflinks designed by de Givenchy, from $4,000 | Image: Weston Wells

The last thing I added to my wardrobe was a pair of Linea di Corsa race-car driving sneakers. This Parisian label has redesigned the classic car shoe and made it fun and colourful, and the handstitched details really add to the appeal. I’ve got a couple of pairs. Jarama Crudo shoes, €129; lineadicorsa.com.

His Shari Mendelson vessel | Image: Weston Wells

An indulgence I would never forgo is riding motorcycles – despite falling off them a lot since I was 16. I own a Ducati 1198S, a BMW R90 and a Ducati Monster. In New York, I like to ride up Bear Mountain; in LA, there’s nothing better than cruising along the Pacific Coast Highway.

His late brother Hubert’s wooden tape measure | Image: Weston Wells

The last book I read is The Little Book of Schiaparelli by Emma Baxter-Wright. My uncle Hubert worked for Elsa Schiaparelli for four years before starting his own brand, and that is where he met his life partner, Philippe Venet. She was very avant-garde, and her fashion is still relevant. The book looks at her collaborations with artists like Dalí, Picabia and Cocteau – it’s an easy, entertaining read. 

Nathaniel Russell House in Charleston

The best gift I’ve given recently was a series of 13 signet rings bearing our family crest, for my daughter, nieces and nephews. I went for steel, as it’s fun and modern. I don’t often see them all, so I hope these rings serve as a memory of our family time together. 

The last meal that truly impressed me was at Semilla in Paris. All the food was excellent, but particularly the épaule d’agneau served with confit potatoes. I took my daughter there one summer night – we sat outside and the people-watching was as good as the meal. 54 Rue de Seine, 75006 Paris (+331-4354 3450; semillaparis.com).

An object I would never part with is a little wooden tape measure that looks like a pebble. It belonged to my late brother, Hubert, like our uncle, who was an interior designer and always kept it in his pocket. I treasure it.

If I didn’t live in New York and Harbour Island, the place I would live is Charleston, South Carolina. I’m tiring of big cities and find the Southern charm and hospitality very inviting. From the historic Nathaniel Russell House to the contemporary Dewberry hotel, which serves great Old Fashioneds, this small city has so much to recommend it. The food scene is excellent: the restaurants Fig and Butcher & Bee are world class, while the Second State Coffee shop has a very warm local feel. Butcher & Bee, 1085 Morrison Dr, 29403 (+1843-619 0202; butcherandbee.com). The Dewberry, 334 Meeting St, 29403 (+1843-558 8000; thedewberrycharleston.com). Fig, 232 Meeting St, 29401 (+1843-805 5900; eatatfig.com). Nathaniel Russell House, 51 Meeting St, 29401 (+1843-724 8481; historiccharleston.org). Second State Coffee, 70.5 Beaufain St, 29401 (+1843-793 4402; secondstatecoffee.com).

My favourite apps are ARTnews, Artdaily, National Geographic and The Economist – although I prefer to get my news from an old-school paper. I also follow Paintguide and The Blue Review on Instagram to discover interesting artists.

Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte opens for the first time at Christmas

Guests of La Réserve Paris can check in for a two-night VIP experience – and spend the night before Christmas in sumptuous style

An opulent Christmas Eve can be found at Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte, as the private estate opens its doors to guests of La Réserve Paris – its first major collaboration with the hotel and the first time in its history that it’s been open at Christmas.

Guests will enjoy a dinner prepared by La Réserve’s two-Michelin-starred chef Jérôme Banctel, accompanied by the wines of Clos d’Estournel | Image: Collectif Image

The event will see a small group of up to 15 friends and family whisked away from the Parisian hotel by helicopter to the countryside setting of Maincy, and the largest privately owned property in France – a château set in sweeping gardens realised in 1661 by architect Louis Le Vau, painter Charles Le Brun and the Sun King’s landscape designer André Le Nôtre.

Following a tour of the historic building, the festivities will begin with dinner prepared by La Réserve’s two-Michelin-starred chef Jérôme Banctel. In addition to seasonal celebratory offerings, guests will be treated to the wines of Cos d’Estournel. The memorable evening is set to conclude with a literal bang as the party moves to the gardens for a glittering fireworks display.

The sumptuous interior of Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte | Image: Collectif Image

The evening is part of a two-night package (priced from €239,000 for up to 15 people), and the Parisian leg of the trip is also filled with festive treats – an entire floor of the hotel will be made available for the party’s private use and they will enjoy a customised cruise on the Seine, special VIP access to the Eiffel Tower, a behind-the-scenes tour of the Louvre and “off-hour” access to some of Paris’ finest boutiques and maisons.

Juan Pablo Molyneux’s perfect weekend in Champagne

The contemporary classicist’s illustrious interiors and opulent restoration projects traverse the globe and include royal palaces, historic châteaux and private homes

“Saturday morning begins with walking my three dogs – an Alsatian shepherd, a Porcelaine and a Labrador retriever/terrier mix – who are as happy to be in the countryside as I am, with only the sound of the birds chirping. 

My château, where the black swans, geese, turkeys and wild peacocks are out in force, is in Champagne-Ardenne, an easy and beautiful drive from Paris. The landscape is so refreshing: it’s green all year round, and we’re surrounded by quaint villages, each with a church dating from the 11th to the 13th century. 

If the weather is nice after my walk, I’ll play tennis, or go for a horseback ride. Haras de Villechétive, a lovely stable nearby, brings the horses ready to ride, so all we have to do is explore.

Then, my wife Pilar and I will go to the farmers’ market in the village of Villeneuve-l’Archevêque, a place so atmospheric that you want to smell, touch and eat everything; the white asparagus, the melons, the seasonal berries and tomatoes all remind me of my childhood in Chile. There is also a wonderful boulangerie called Brissonnet Sylvain, where they sell a delicious speciality called Villeneuvien, a cake made with layers of the lightest crêpe.  

One of the most magical towns in the area is Sens. It’s home to one of Europe’s earliest gothic cathedrals and was one of the most important medieval towns in France. My château was built as a fortress for Sens; you’ll see this architectural style all over the region, with buildings that are square and imposing, each with four towers, a moat and a dungeon. 

After a morning in Sens, we might go south to Troyes, where the Musée Saint-Loup holds all kinds of archaeological and fine art masterpieces, such as Philippe de Champaigne’s La Réception du duc de Longueville dans l’Ordre du Saint-Esprit among the most important paintings.

For an excellent lunch, we’ll continue on to La Côte St Jacques in Joigny: the food, particularly the Bresse chicken steamed in champagne and the seabass with oscietra caviar, is the best of France. 

On Saturday night we’ll have guests and cook what we bought at the market, or we might head to Auberge du Cygne de la Croix in Nogent-sur-Seine. It’s a simple restaurant with a warm atmosphere – the terrine maison is unmissable. Le Moulin du Landion, in a 18th-century water mill, is another lovely place for a night out. The cuisine is rustic but with sophisticated touches, and everything from the foie gras to the salads smells so fresh.

Sunday morning typically involves one of the brocantes – travelling antique markets. Moulins has one of the best in the region for 18th-century French country furniture and decorative objects such as candelabra. One of my favourite finds was a mismatched dinner service that’s perfect for festive dinner parties.

Taittinger and Ruinart are both close to home, and we like to visit the caves. It’s interesting to see how they store the champagne, but I’m more fascinated with the buildings, a mix of magnificent old arches and modernist elements. The Gallo-Roman chalk mines at Taittinger are now a Unesco World Heritage site, and Ruinart, also in Reims, is a historic site too. And, of course, we never miss the cathedral. 

We also enjoy dining later outside at the spectacular Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte. It’s a bit of a drive, but Les Charmilles, the restaurant there, is magical by candlelight. Usually though, we stay home and have a late lunch or Mariage Frères’ black tea and sweets from Maison Caffet chocolatier in Troyes, before returning to Paris. 

I almost always go back with a smile, ready for the week ahead. In any case, we bring baskets of freshly picked flowers to carry us through.”

A long weekend in Palm Beach with Aerin Lauder

The scion of the Estée Lauder empire, founder of global luxury lifestyle brand Aerin and Palm Beach habituée shares one-off shops, compelling cultural programmes and top ice creams with Christina Ohly Evans. Portrait by Jeffery Salter

“Palm Beach has always been a big part of my life.  I grew up spending holidays here with my grandmother [Estée Lauder] and all of my family, and I love the beaches, the sun, the architecture…everything about the place. There is a clear sense of tradition here – people still don black tie for the annual Coconuts New Year’s Eve gala – but there is also an exciting, younger energy in town. The next generation is moving to Palm Beach, and there is an international draw because of its proximity to Miami, so the town feels more vibrant and creative than ever.

My grandmother – who was my mentor – always loved the elegance of Palm Beach; one of her earliest fragrances, Aliage, was inspired by the sporty lifestyle here. Estée always wore white pants, a Pucci shirt and a broad-brimmed straw hat, and my Palm Beach uniform isn’t much different – though I tend to wear white jeans instead. The town is little changed since my childhood; the colours of the bougainvillea, the sculpture gardens and the very specific Mediterranean style of architecture are all wonderfully intact. You’ll find these grand, sweeping estates, as well as beautiful apartments that were built by Addison Mizner in the 1920s. All of these homes and spaces have clear Spanish and Italian influences, with plenty of the white stucco that’s so perfect for the south Florida climate.

The pool at the Italian Renaissance-style Breakers Hotel

Palm Beach’s gardens are some of the most beautiful in the world. The Society of the Four Arts is one of my favourite places not just for flora – there are about 170 plant species including hibiscus, orchids and palms – but also for its incredible sculpture garden, complete with pergolas. It does all kinds of cultural programming – Simon Schama has been here, and documentary filmmaker Ric Burns – as well as concerts and screenings. This is a peaceful place to spend a morning, before heading to the nearby Lake Trail, a bike path that follows the edge of Lake Worth, past boat docks and historic homes and with gorgeous views along the Intracoastal Waterway.

There are all sorts of hotels in Palm Beach, from historical and grand to those with a more boutique feel. But the iconic Breakers, which was built in 1926 in the Italian Renaissance style, is among the best. This is a great spot for everything from tennis and golf to lounging by the pool in one of their cabanas; the spa and gym are perfection too. I’m a big fan of its breakfast buffet – which is served in a massive ballroom that makes you feel like you’re on an old ship. Its relatively new Seafood Bar offers some of the best crab cakes on the island. For a more intimate stay, Brazilian Court has apartment-style suites and also an excellent restaurant by Daniel Boulud, while I like The Colony Hotel in the centre of town for its old-world feel, complete with a beautiful high tea served on the porch.

The heart of Palm Beach is Worth Avenue. You’ll find some of the most incredible shops and restaurants here. One of the most special places, tucked away off Worth Avenue, is Via Mizner – a little courtyard, full of shops and restaurants, that’s on the US National Register of Historic Places. This whole area symbolises the Gilded Age and the work of architect Addison Mizner, whose designs line part of the street. I always encourage people to look up on Worth Avenue, because some of the most beautiful gardens dangle above them; even the palm trees lining the street are lit from below at night.

The shopping here is world class. Kassatly’s – opened in 1923, it’s Worth Avenue’s oldest shop – is a must for towels, while Leta Austin Foster is an institution for luxurious D Porthault linens and children’s clothing. Just next door you’ll find CJ Laing, one of the best places to stock up on cover‑ups, sandals and straw hats. For anyone interested in monogramming and embroidery – of everything, from hand towels to clothing – or even in personalising an order of Oreo cookies, Lori Jayne Monogramming & More is a truly unique find; she will customise virtually anything and her shop is a hidden gem. Hive is another must, for the array of housewares and accessories and, particularly, for the beautiful selection of notecards.

The elegant, old-world patio at Renato's | Image: Nickolas Sargent

In addition to great shopping, Via Mizner has some excellent restaurants. You can sit outside at Renato’s and enjoy really classic, fresh food: roasted baby artichokes and Dover sole in a beautiful setting. For a more casual bite, I like lunch or dinner at the nearby Pizza al Fresco; it has an excellent thin‑crust frutti di mare pizza and a lovely garden under twinkling lights.

What’s exceptional about this shopping area is its mix of old and new; you’ll find names like Valentino just up from a florist, Tom Mathieu, who does incredible arrangements with tropical plants. Trillion is another classic, with a hugely colourful array of cashmere for men and women. Its Italian sweaters in shades of hot pink, mint and purple are perfect for Palm Beach, and the shop is considered an institution for menswear in particular. Worth Avenue is also home to Mary Mahoney, a noted home-decor boutique where I always find unique glassware and Buccellati silver. And for lovers of vintage, there is no better place than Palm Beach because there is always an estate sale on somewhere. And the Church Mouse on South County Road is a treasure trove of everything from antique furniture to 1960s evening bags and clutches by Emilio Pucci.

Via Mizner, a Gilded Age courtyard, is home to many local restaurants and shops | Image: Susanne Kremer/4Corners Images

One of the newer additions to town is Sant Ambroeus in the Royal Poinciana Plaza, a sister to the New York and Milan cafés. I love it for breakfast, lunch, dinner and sometimes a hazelnut gelato from its standalone cart. But I’m actually very loyal to Sprinkles, the local ice cream shop nearby, because I’ve been going there all my life, and the homemade coconut ice cream is outstanding. For even more old-fashioned atmosphere, there’s Green’s Pharmacy on North County Road; it has a traditional soda fountain counter and makes the best grilled cheese sandwiches and vanilla milkshakes in town. You’ll also find things like Whitman’s Sampler boxes of chocolates and practical sun hats. The whole place is purely nostalgic.

For a short road trip, head just an hour south to Miami where the new Surf Club is both sleek and glamorous. The restaurant there, Le Sirenuse, serves food just like the food at the original in the famous hotel in Positano. You actually do feel transported to the Mediterranean.

Chic cover-ups, straw hats and bags at CJ Laing

My grandmother loved Palm Beach for the natural beauty, the sense of tradition and the people. Even today, there’s an embracing of the old world, but also a younger generation that feels tied to the area. The times that I shared here with my grandmother – visiting the Flagler Museum, sitting in the sunroom in her chairs or just cycling along the bike path – I now enjoy with my sons. I always hope that when people come to Palm Beach they access those same feelings of warmth and history. It is a place for people of all ages, with all kinds of varied interests; but Palm Beach hasn’t changed much over the many years I’ve been coming, and that’s what makes it so special.”

The Aesthete: Jean Nouvel talks personal taste

The Pritzker Prize-winning architect’s projects include the Arab World Institute, the Louvre Abu Dhabi and the forthcoming 53W53 in New York

Jean Nouvel | Image: Emmanuel Fradin

My personal style signifier is my Yohji Yamamoto black clothing – dress shirts, traditionally cut trousers and a jacket – which I wear for three seasons of the year. I switch to white versions from June to September, because I’m typically in the south of France and more comfortable in lighter clothes. 14/15 Conduit St, London W1 (020-7491 4129; yohjiyamamoto.co.jp). 

The last thing I bought and loved was a very minimal black Swatch watch, the Once Again GB743. I don’t buy much, but when I do, it is something functional, simple and made of practical materials. This watch is basic: there’s no messing around. £32; swatch.com.

Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art

And the thing I’m eyeing next is a book by one of my idols, Edgar Morin. I love this French philosopher/sociologist’s writing, and I am looking forward to reading The Cinema, or The Imaginary Man, which delves into imagination and human nature. $19.95; University of Minnesota Press.

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Williamstown, Massachusetts. The landscape in autumn in the Berkshire mountains, with the brilliant red and orange foliage, was the most beautiful I’ve seen in my life. The Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art in nearby North Adams is an exceptional museum with incredible works by Sol LeWitt, and the Clark Art Institute is another world-class institution. Clark Art Institute, 225 South St, Williamstown, MA 01267 (+1413-458 2303; clarkart.edu). MASS MoCA, 87 Marshall St, North Adams, MA 01247 (+1413-662 2111; massmoca.org). 

The best gift I’ve given recently was 96 bottles of wine to my father for his 96th birthday. I always give him wine and this year it was Château d’Yquem – one of his favourites. yquem.fr. 

And the best one I’ve received was a beautiful original drawing by Claude Parent, from his widow Naad.

From left: Swatch Once Again GB743 watch, £32. Château d’Yquem, one of the wines Nouvel gave his father for his birthday. Eau des Baux by L’Occitane, £46 for 100ml. Nouvel’s Fedora by Motsch for Hermès | Image: Emmanuel Fradin

A recent “find” is Cartet, a French restaurant near Place de la République. It is like a museum of classic cuisine with specialities such as duck à l’orange and veal chops garnished with morels. With madeleines, chocolate mousse and tarte au citron all placed before you at the end of the meal, dining here is a bit of a wonderful disaster. 62 Rue de Malte, 75011 Paris (+331-4805 1765). 

In my fridge you’ll always find foie gras from my home town of Fumel, good wine, chocolate, fruit and cheese, including comté, Roquefort, camembert and chèvre. 

The Cinema, or the Imaginary Man by Edgar Morin

My favourite room in my house is my TV room. I am a huge fan of football and rugby, and I love to wash my brain by watching sport. The room is all black and features one of the same beautiful steel stars I used in the dome of the Louvre in Abu Dhabi. louvreabudhabi.ae.

The last thing I added to my wardrobe was a black fedora by Motsch for Hermès, which was steamed to fit my head perfectly. It is highly practical. hermes.com.

The grooming product I’m never without is Eau des Baux by L’Occitane. It has a very specific scent of cypress, which reminds me of the south of France. £46 for 100ml; loccitane.com.

If I didn’t live in Paris, the city I would live in is Nice. I love the setting: it’s on the sea, with beautiful light, and the climate is perfect. I am particularly fond of the old town and the Mont Boron fortification and park. The Yves Klein room at the Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain is a highlight, as is one of my favourite brasseries, Le Safari. It serves simply prepared artichokes, fresh scampi and fish with a Provençal twist. I like this straightforward cuisine. MAMAC, Place Yves Klein, 06364 Nice (+334-9713 4201; mamac-nice.org). Le Safari, 1 Cours Saleya, 06300 Nice (+334-9380 1844; restaurantsafari.fr). 

An object I would never part with is my black Persol sunglasses. They fold easily to fit in my pocket, and I am never without them. 714 Series, from £196; persol.com.

Lenny Kravitz’s perfect weekend in Paris

The award-winning musician, producer, actor and oenophile continues to add strings to his creative bow, with his own design studio and a new role as creative director of Dom Pérignon

“Saturday mornings start with a run in the Bois de Boulogne, near my home in the 16th arrondissement, or a visit to my trainer at L’Usine, a gym near Opéra. I’ll then stroll to the open-air market along Avenue du Président Wilson. I am a green juice, farm-to-table guy, and there’s always an incredible array of organic produce that sets me up for the weekend.

I love furniture and design objects, and wandering the Saint-Germain-des-Prés area gives me creative inspiration. I like Studio 7L, Karl Lagerfeld’s bookstore, which specialises in photography, fashion, design and architecture, and Studio Willy Rizzo, where you’ll find anything from contemporary lacquered tables to vintage fashion photographs. I might end up in the impressionist rooms at the Musée d’Orsay, where I’ll often just sit and relax.

After a morning spent exploring, I’ll go to La Société for a light lunch with friends. It draws a great mix of people – artists, tourists, the fashion crowd – and the space, designed by Christian Liaigre, is very soothing. There are hints of Asia, such as curries and tom yum soup, and the shrimp and avocado salad is excellent. Afterwards I might walk over to the Musée des Arts Décoratifs to see an exhibition such as the recent Dior retrospective, or I’ll go to a show at the Grand Palais.

I spend a lot of time in the Marais too, and for café culture I like Le Loir dans la Théière, which translates to “the dormouse in the teapot” from the Mad Hatter’s tea party. I love the laidback vibe; it looks like a place the Beat poets would have loved, and it’s a good stop for a cup of tea or a lentil salad. Alternatively, L’As du Fallafel, where I’ve been going for the past 30 years, serves excellent falafel sandwiches. There’s a line out the door, but it’s worth the wait.

Saturday nights are about dining out, and Pierre Sang in the 11th does amazing French-Asian cuisine. The Korean-born chef was raised by French parents and it shows in his incredibly fresh, creative food; the surprise tasting menus are delicious. He owns three restaurants in the area and literally runs between them. This one is kind of hipster – and just very cool.

I am a huge opera fan – I sang with the Metropolitan Opera in New York, growing up – and I also love the ballet. Before an evening at the Palais Garnier, I’ll often go to Matsuhisa at the Royal Monceau for its clean, inventive Japanese food.

Nights tend to be late, and the party is at my house: I’ve converted the cellar into a speakeasy. Dance parties might involve Mick Jagger or Naomi Campbell DJing, and at 5am we’ll head to Babylone Bis, an Afro-Caribbean restaurant that’s open all night – something hard to find in Paris. It’s hidden in an alley near Les Halles, and the poulet braisé with plantains, rice and beans and the funky zebra print and pictures of Marvin Gaye make it a fantastic place.

I’ll sleep until 11am, before heading to the Marché aux Puces in Saint-Ouen to look for midcentury pieces by Joe Colombo, Gabriella Crespi, Verner Panton, Warren Platner and Charles and Ray Eames. Galerie Glustin and Galerie Gam are great for furniture and lighting, and Marché Paul Bert is a favourite for fine pieces such as oil paintings, rare glassware and vintage clothing. I’ll have lunch at the Philippe Starck-designed bistro Ma Cocotte, where the food is really French and the open kitchen adds to the lively scene.

By the afternoon I’m burnt out. Friends and family gather, and we’ll cook. I’m more on the vegan side, but there’s always a roast chicken for the others. Then we’ll sit around my library, spinning 1970s records and talking about the album artwork, and I’ll start to feel recharged for the week ahead.”

Independent Copenhagen boutiques not to be missed

A quartet of fashion and interior treasure troves for curious travellers

Co-owners Magali Chiaberge and Frans Pachner at Maritime Antiques & | Image: Maja Flink

Within striking distance of the harbour, visitors are greeted by the scent of traditional tar ropes as they cross the threshold of this Copenhagen boutique. A main draw is the shop’s world-class collection of maritime antiques, but co-owners Frans Pachner and Magali Chiaberge have added a somewhat unexpected fashion angle to their offering. A selection of “timeless, high-quality, functional clothes with a nautical vibe” includes stacks of utilitarian-chic jumpers in a largely neutral palette of navy blue, grey and black – and, of course, a smattering of stripes – presented on rough-hewn tables accented with fishing nets, enormous clam shells and skeins of rope. The creative endeavours of Chiaberge herself are also evident: her intriguing fine-art photography (from about £700 to £3,500) completes this downtown cool-meets-maritime mise en scène, which always sends shoppers on their way with a final nautical flourish – every purchase is wrapped in brown paper and tied with delicately scented fine tar twine. Toldbodgade 15, 1253 (+4533-121 257; maritime-antiques.dk). CHRISTINA OHLY EVANS

Keramiker Inge Vincents sells paper-thin porcelain

Keramiker Inge Vincents

As I walk down Jægersborggade, through a window I see a woman hard at work, putting the finishing touches to a delicate white jug. Candles flicker within, and stacks of shiny, ridged or curved porcelain are too inviting to miss. These pieces are wafer thin and look like they might break in an instant, but owner Inge Vincents assures me they are surprisingly robust. The shapes are warm and inviting to touch, with the curves of the cups a satisfying fit for hands. The ceramicist’s work revolves around the endless variations of the “thinware” technique – the normal slab method taken to paper-thin limits – and she has spent years perfecting the craft. I pick up a milk jug (about £37.70), ridged from base to lip, with a stubby cylindrical shape, and spy a rippled tulip vase (about £98.50), crooked and shiny inside. I buy both. Jægersborggade 43, 2200 (+4540-701 750; vincents.dk). JEMIMA SISSONS

A 1950s black-tinted glass console table (€4,000) at The Apartment | Image: Maja Flink

Beau Marché sources much of its stock from French flea markets

The Apartment

Secreted away in a residential pocket of Copenhagen, on the first floor of a private building with no store front or signage, The Apartment doesn’t rely on footfall. Yet this exquisite emporium of mostly midcentury furniture and lighting is well known within Scandi-cool and international design circles. Everything in the Georgian panelled living room, kitchen and bedroom is for sale, whether that’s an elegant 1950s black-tinted glass console table with coiled metal legs, or a contemporary chandelier – and guests can even stay the night there. Founder Tina Seidenfaden Busck travels monthly to scout for pieces – many from Italy, France and Sweden, most dating from the 1940s, ’50s and ’60s – and showcases her vintage finds alongside contemporary classics. The items are rotated constantly and she redecorates the entire place every six months. Overgaden neden Vandet 33, 1414 (+4531-620 402; theapartment.dk). LUCINDA BARING

Beau Marché

As a Scandinavian design junkie with a flat full of midcentury modern, I didn’t expect to return from a weekend in Copenhagen with souvenirs from France. But of all the intriguing independent shops tucked away behind the Strøget, it was Beau Marché that captured my heart. A mix of modern and vintage homeware, much of the stock was found in French flea markets by four Danish siblings, Julie, Elisabeth, Danielle and Christian Lee Dann. Everything is beautifully laid out – miniature Tolix chairs for tots, industrial lamps, vintage champagne crates and contemporary treasures. I couldn’t resist some adorable bowls, hand made at the Faïencerie de Niderviller, a ceramics factory that’s been around since 1735. I can’t help feeling smug: about £20 a pop, they were five times cheaper than the (admittedly rather lovely) blue fluted porcelain on sale at tourist-packed Royal Copenhagen down the road. Ny Østergade 32, 1101 (+4555-771 430; beau-marche.dk). RACHEL HOWARD

“I’m still relaxed after my visit to this reinvented Massachusetts motel”

Bringing Brooklyn-cool to the pastoral Berkshires

I’ve spent a lot of time in the Berkshires over the years. I love the bucolic valleys and pristine villages in this part of northwestern Massachusetts. It makes for a wonderful weekend escape, just three hours hours from New York City, and is home to an increasingly world-class art scene with the outstanding Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art at its centre. The only problem is finding somewhere to stay – until this summer, that is, when the retro-chic Tourists opened its doors in the small city of North Adams. 

The ranch-house-cum-lobby has a cool grown-up house party aesthetic and is furnished with Mario Bellini sofas | Image: Peter Crosby

My first thought as we approached this stylish take on a motor lodge this summer was, “I’m never going to be able to sleep,” given that the property runs alongside a particularly busy thoroughfare. But Tourists’ 48 rooms are located well within its generous grounds – a mix of woodland and lush gardens with the babbling Hoosic River in its backyard – and pretty much the only sound that wafted into my room was the soothing music selection from the short-wave radio. I’m still feeling relaxed from my recent visit thanks to the river views bought into our plywood-clad Canopy room via enormous picture windows. There’s even a state-of-the-art ventilation system that pumps in fresh mountain air.

The hotel has its own suspension bridge – an über-cool, minimalist metal construction courtesy of adventure park designer Gerhard Komenda | Image: Peter Crosby

Tourists boasts a salt-water pool and outdoor deck shower | Image: John Dolan

The reinvention of this roadside motel was helmed by Ben Svenson, a Boston-based design-loving developer whose creative partners in the project range from architect Hank Scollard and noted landscape architecture firm Reed Hilderbrand (who created the stunning grounds of The Clark Art Institute just up the road) to musician John Stirratt, bassist in Grammy Award-winning band Wilco, and local brewery owner Eric Kerns. Together, they’ve brought all kinds of cool aesthetics to this grown-up house party: tan Mario Bellini sofas adorn the original 1960s ranch-house-cum-lobby, while sleek bathrooms are kitted out with Dornbracht fixtures, organic toiletries from Vermont brand Ursa Major (the Perfect Zen body lotion is delicious), denim robes and rainbow-coloured towels for use in the outdoor deck shower and saltwater pool. The hotel even has its own suspension bridge – an über-cool, minimalist metal construction courtesy of adventure park designer Gerhard Komenda.

Food is another major focus, overseen by chef Cortney Burns, former co-chef of San Francisco’s revered Bar Tartine. A restaurant called Loom will open in early 2019, but for now guests can dine in the Lodge or on the sprawling Deck Bar. And the menus are already impressive – charred summer vegetables with brown rice tabbouleh, green tahini, yoghurt and olives; seared halibut with aubergine and tomatoes. Delightful.

Zohiko: a shrine to Kyoto’s elegant handmade lacquerware

Emperors et al are drawn to this elegant Kyoto store’s alluring array of locally crafted lacquerware embellished with silver, gold and mother-of-pearl

A visit to Kyoto will invariably lead to Teramachi Street, a mecca for smart shops since the Meiji period in the 1800s. Along an enticing stretch lined with antiques shops, washi-paper makers and a centuries-old tea emporium, is a sleek storefront that gives way to a magical world of glossy, hand-hewn lacquerware.

Zohiko has been in the same family since 1661, but was moved to its current gallery-like space in 2014. “We wanted a calm, clean atmosphere to bring out the elegance of the lacquerware,” says Kazumi Nishimura, who co-owns the store with husband Tsuyoshi. “We aim for simple beauty with our pieces. There’s no need for excessive design or harsh lighting.”

Ornamental red-lacquer boxes, about £220 | Image: Yasuyuki Takagi

A ground-floor showroom leads to an archive of rare pieces, some dating from the 17th century – minimalist white shelves display a mix of functional and decorative objects in the highly polished red and black lacquerware peculiar to Kyoto. The owners delight in sharing their history and the artisanal maki-e technique – a process of embellishment with silver, gold and lustrous mother-of-pearl – that makes Kyoto lacquerware so distinctive.

From everyday, heat-retaining bowls (¥16,200, about £110 for a set of two) to ceremonial tea services (price on request) inlaid with opalescent abalone shells, every piece begins with a slab of local keyaki wood or bamboo that’s carved and sanded to smooth perfection. Only after 20 or more layers of urushi lacquer (or tree resin) have been applied and polished is the piece ready for decoration at a nearby atelier.

“There are various lacquer colours – black, blue, red, white – but I think the most beautiful is still black,” says Nishimura. “It’s not a pigment but rather a shade born by oxidising lacquer with iron.”

Among the glossy creations on offer are ornamental red-lacquer boxes (about £220) with nature motifs – orchids, cranes and clouds recur – rendered in brushed gold, and minimalist matcha-tea canisters (about £485) in muted, matte-black lacquer. Elegant incense boxes (about £2,610) decorated with fire-breathing dragons sit cheek by jowl with a textural, one-of-a-kind, black jewel casket (about £8,210) bearing Kyoto’s pride – cherry blossoms in bloom – in gold with accents of shimmering shell.

Bespoke work (price on request) is a speciality and no project is ever deemed too small or too complex. The store has taken orders for inkstone boxes in unusual shades of sapphire, orange and ivory, created ornamental folding screens and received a commission for the elaborate thrones for the current emperor and empress that grace Kyoto’s Imperial Palace. Daily-use items – geometric trays, sake sets or plates in varying organic shapes – typically take three months to complete, while more elaborate items such as an incense burner (about £6,870) with a woven silver top “might take two years or more because of its unique shape,” says Nishimura.

“Lacquerware is part of day-to‑day Japanese living,” says Nishimura. “It’s antibacterial, hardwearing and, most importantly, the pieces are comfortable to touch and to hold, which makes eating and drinking a pleasure.”

Stay in a Jean Prouvé masterpiece

Guests of Villa La Coste can now check into a Prouvé prefab – an art installation adapted by Richard Rogers, which is set to become a unique bolthole experience

The discerning traveller needs no excuse to visit Château La Coste in the south of France, but a unique experience fusing art and architecture is an enticing added incentive. From Monday October 1, the Provençal winery, museum and boutique bolthole will collaborate with Galerie Patrick Seguin Paris to offer guests the unique experience of booking into a prefabricated house designed by midcentury master Jean Prouvé, which has been adapted for modern use by Pritzker Prize-winning architect Richard Rogers.

The prefabricated house designed by midcentury master Jean Prouvé has been adapted for modern use by Pritzker Prize-winning architect Richard Rogers

The 6x6 Prouvé house –a passion project of gallerist Patrick Seguin that was realised by Rogers in 2015 –is on display at Villa La Coste’s Renzo Piano-designed art gallery. Now, guests will not only be able to marvel at the piece but stay in it (from €2,000 per night) throughout 2019. Prouvé designed the spare, functional Demountable House in 1944 for victims of the second world war left homeless in France’s Lorraine region, but with careful adaptation that preserves the integrity of the original structure, it has become chic accommodation – complete with furnishings and art from Patrick Seguin’s impressive personal collection.

Guests of Villa La Coste can book to stay in the Prouvé house (from €2,000 per night) from Monday October 1

The house is furnished with design classics and art from Patrick Seguin’s personal collection

Guests will be in good company during their stay, as Château La Coste hosts a world-class art collection featuring works by Louise Bourgeois, Alexander Calder and Ai Wei Wei.

Villa La Coste’s Renzo Piano-designed art gallery

A long weekend in Cornwall with Olga Polizzi

Rocco Forte’s design director takes Christina Ohly Evans on a seaside sojourn of slick sailboats, sculpture gardens, sublime seafood and secret hideaways.

Olga Polizzi on the seafront at St Mawes | Image: Jooney Woodward

“I came to Cornwall late in life and fell in love with it straight away. My husband has been coming here all his life; I was introduced to the area 28 years ago and it was a revelation. Cornwall feels like another country – the pace is slower, the light is beautiful and, because the Gulf Stream passes right by, the weather is that much milder. You’ll feel very connected to nature here – the sea, the rocks, the beach – and the people are also incredibly kind. It feels like a particularly vibrant area now, with new restaurants and art galleries adding to the cultural mix. Best of all, you can walk the Cornish coastal path for miles, and while the going isn’t always easy, it is beautiful throughout the seasons.

Of course, I recommend a stay at Hotel Tresanton, the eclectic little inn that I looked at for two years before buying. It was formerly a yacht club; the collection of buildings was in total disrepair when I acquired it, but we’ve managed to create a very relaxed, almost Mediterranean-meets-New England getaway where each of the 30 rooms has a different feel – and a view of the sea. It’s a wonderful place if you like sailing, and we have a magnificent 8m classic yacht named Pinuccia that’s available to our guests. She was built in 1939 to race for Italy at an international competition and from May to the end of September, our skipper Mark will take you sailing around Falmouth bay – one of the most beautiful places for boating in Britain.

The Lookout Suite at the Artist Residence in Penzance

I furnished the rooms with antique finds from Penzance and paintings from the Lemon Street Gallery, in Truro; its offerings are as good as anything you’ll find in London, so I am constantly adding to the hotel’s collection of contemporary Cornish and more traditional art.

The village of St Mawes, with the boats bobbing in and out of the harbour, is the perfect, quaint seaside spot for a good meal or a bit of retail therapy. I always recommend The Watch House, where chef Will Gould will give you a very good, seafood-centric meal. In terms of stores, my daughter Charlie’s shop, Onda, in the centre of the village stocks excellent clothing and accessories for young and old alike; I buy many of my clothes here and particularly like the new designers she carries, like Annette Görtz and Munthe, a Scandinavian brand. You can find beach bags, jewellery and the latest trainers, too. The village also has a tiny but very well‑stocked delicatessen called Mr Scorse, which is owned and run by Jon Scorse – a friend who used to work at Tresanton. He sells a very good homemade pesto, all sorts of jams and honey, and delicious Cornish gins.

From St Mawes you can take a lovely walk past one of Henry VIII’s castles, which was built in the 16th century to protect the English coastline. You’ll stroll through fields along the seaside for about an hour before reaching the St Just in Roseland church. Built in the 13th century, it has one of the prettiest churchyards in England, right on the water.

Summer is the perfect time to take the ferry from St Mawes across to Place Creek, and walk either to St Anthony’s Lighthouse or the Hidden Hut, which serves excellent seafood chowder and freshly baked bread, overlooking the pristine Porthcurnick Beach on the Roseland Peninsula. It’s a casual spot, a favourite with locals who come for the bespoke espresso martini ice cream that’s made with Cornish clotted cream or, in season, an excellent elderflower cordial. If one is motivated, however, the coastal path extends for many more miles from here. This area is a true walker’s paradise.

Henry VIII’s castle in St Mawes overlooking the Fal estuary | Image: Maurizio Rellini/4Corners Images

I love going to St Ives, and always make a point of stopping at Leach Pottery outside town. Bernard Leach was one of Britain’s best-known potters; he trained in Japan and came back to St Ives where he started his own kilns. He died many years back, but the exquisite ceramics tradition continues here – there is regularly an artist in residence and it’s a good place for picking up interesting pieces. There’s also Tate St Ives, which has been enlarged and has a very good collection of Cornish art, and I always discover emerging artists at the Penwith Gallery. The Barbara Hepworth Museum, with its lovely sculpture garden, is another must.

In St Ives there are several good restaurants, but my favourite is the Porthminster Beach Café, overlooking the bay and Godrevy Lighthouse beyond. The cuisine has an Asian influence with Cornish ingredients. Everything is fresh, from the vegetables and herbs that come from the back garden to the Porthilly oysters and monkfish served with a tangy curry.

A seafood platter at The Watch House, St Mawes

If you want to go a little further afield from St Ives, take the coast road – one of Britain’s most beautiful – to Zennor, and to the best gastro pub I know: The Gurnard’s Head. It has a very limited menu, which I like because it means that everything – mussels, grilled plaice – is fresh. From Zennor, go on to Porthcurno, which is almost the most westerly point of Britain. (Don’t go to Land’s End, however, which is the most westerly point and is rather disappointing.) In Porthcurno there’s the Minack Theatre, perched on the cliffs high above the Atlantic Ocean. It was built between the two world wars and continues to put on plays, concerts and operas every summer in the open air. The stage is set with its back to the sea and the whole thing is very dramatic. The Telegraph Museum here is also worth a look. Over 150 years ago, submarine telegraph cables were laid from here all the way to India. In 1928, the Eastern Telegraph Company merged with Marconi’s Wireless Telegraph Company and this paved the way for today’s worldwide communications system.

From Porthcurno, drive to Mousehole, known for its exquisite circular harbour, and on to Newlyn, one of the largest fishing ports in Cornwall. I always visit the Newlyn Art Gallery, and from there I highly recommend a walk along the promenade to the Jubilee Pool, the newly restored, enormous outdoor pool that’s set into the sea. You can’t leave Newlyn without having a Jelberts ice cream. It only serves vanilla – with a dollop of Cornish clotted cream on top – but it’s simply the best.

The Withiel Sculpture Garden at Lemon Street Gallery, Truro | Image: Emily Whitfield-Wicks

Nearby is Penzance, where you will find the Artist Residence, a quirky and unusual hotel run by a lovely young couple who do everything themselves. It is eclectic and fun. Another place that I can go to again and again is the Lizard, a part of Cornwall that is weird, wild, wonderful and a little bit spooky. In Church Cove there you will find the tiny, ancient Gunwalloe Church in a sandy cove on the beach – very moving and romantic. Nearby you can buy lighthouse statues made of Cornish Serpentine marble. I always buy the old ones when I see them.

On the way back to London, Coombeshead Farm near Lewannick is a wonderful bed and breakfast between Cornwall and Devon, nearer to our Hotel Endsleigh than to Tresanton. It’s just 20 miles from Dartmoor National Park and it’s an intimate, magical place. The owners are the acclaimed chefs April Bloomfield and Tom Adams, and they serve absolutely delicious food, grown and picked by them, on their own land. Don’t leave Cornwall without visiting Rick Stein’s The Seafood Restaurant on the north coast. Rick is still Cornwall’s most famous chef, and thousands of people come to Padstow every year to eat his simply prepared, incredibly flavourful seafood.

Cornwall is having a moment; I think that’s because life is much easier here than it is in London. People are helpful, you’re surrounded by nature and there is a large creative community that’s being drawn to the Falmouth School of Art, among other places. I remember not so long ago when I had to bring all my produce down from London, and now you can find all kinds of unusual vegetables and virtually every type of cuisine. Much of life in Cornwall remains the same, but I like that new energy.”

Mate Gallery: a trove of nautical treasures

Seaside roots in Massachusetts and Scotland were the inspiration behind this ever-changing California emporium

“We thought, why not bring a bit of New England to the West Coast?” says Matt Albiani of the decision to open Mate Gallery in the oceanside town of Montecito, California. Drawing on their seaside roots, Albiani, originally from Massachusetts, and co-owner Ron Brand, from Broughty Ferry in Scotland, have created a magical 160sq ft space teeming with nostalgic nautical finds.

Set within the rustic-chic Montecito Country Mart, Mate Gallery is a preppy design-lover’s dream, stocked with rare pieces sourced from the pair’s travels. A mix of periods and styles makes the tiny space sing: a recent trip to Rome yielded marine oil paintings that line the walls, while an attic sale at a stately home outside Edinburgh led to a cache of binoculars, folding chairs and assorted decorative objects. “Our rule of thumb is to attend yard sales in upmarket towns,” says Brand. “Easthampton, Greenwich and Scituate, on the Massachusetts South Shore, are full of treasures.”

The magical 160sq ft space is teeming with nostalgic nautical finds | Image: Matt Albiani

These frequent buying expeditions mean that the shop rarely looks the same from one month to the next, and it’s this freshness that draws a clientele that includes Ellen DeGeneres and Katy Perry. “Tourists driving down the Pacific Coast Highway seek us out, and Instagram has been a total game-changer,” says Albiani. “Our graphic signal flags, maps and textiles go over particularly well.” 

Curiosities run the gamut from needlepoint caps and belts (from $41 to $135) bearing images of seagulls and sailboats, to ships in bottles ($75-$295) from Maine that are “a favourite, and very difficult to find in mint condition,” says Brand. There are vintage brass anchor and irons ($1,100) and cream Hudson’s Bay wool blankets ($425) with trims of navy, red and emerald green, which sit beautifully with Turkish and Moroccan rugs (from $295) “in muted neutrals that are wonderfully worn,” says Albiani. Images (from $1,200) of lifeguards and water pursuits by Albiani himself line the walls alongside oil portraits ($195-$3,000) of ships’ captains and lighthouses. Brand’s British roots can be seen in the blue and white ceramics (from $19) by Jersey Pottery, decorated with fish.

Tables and shelves are stacked with classic books – first-edition copies of Jaws ($125), for example – as well as the duo’s own Sun Burn soy-based candles ($41) that are scented to evoke a day at the beach. A pair of giant lobster claws in a 12in-high cloche ($295-$695), rare cotton California state flags ($425) emblazoned with the grizzly bear, and textural rope-wrapped surfboards (from $1,100) are among Mate’s most eye-catching inventory. “We bring beat-up surfboards to a local artisan, who then wraps them in 500ft of rope,” explains Brand of these one-of-a-kind, very SoCal objets d’art.

“We keep it fresh and mix it up,” says Albiani of the elevated jumble sale-meets-Martha’s Vineyard vibe. “Hopefully people will come into the store and remember some part of their childhood, particularly the happy highlights of summer.”