Marc Glimcher’s perfect weekend in New York

The art dealer and president of Pace Gallery, which represents artists including Mark Rothko and James Turrell, has recently overseen global expansion to a 10th location, in Hong Kong

Marc Glimcher at the Whitney Museum of American Art in New York | Image: Ike Edeani

“My wife Fairfax and I begin Saturdays with matcha and meditation, then a bit of rounding – a yoga-like practice – before one of the healthiest breakfasts imaginable: scrambled eggs with parsley, and smoked salmon, sauerkraut and avocado. I spent the first 50 years of my life eating sugar, and the past three eating healthily, and I finally feel terrific.

My weekends are all about family and rejuvenation; they are the crowning achievement of the week. However, in the art world there is no division between your work and personal life, so art is always woven into Saturdays. 

Sometimes I’ll take out the Tesla and go and see artists such as Julian Schnabel downtown. Studio visits are a relaxing way to see artist-friends when I’m not trying to get to another appointment. But more often than not, our family of six – I have four kids from my previous marriage – will walk around the city, visiting museums. Our go-to is the Whitney, where we’ll see a show and have healthy salads at Untitled, Danny Meyer’s restaurant, before heading uptown to my all-time favourite institution, the American Museum of Natural History. I’m a geek, so this place, with its gems and relics, really appeals – and I force everyone to come, because it’s a masterclass in how to present ideas and images. Afterwards, we’ll head across the street to Gari Columbus for the best sushi on the Upper West Side. 

I like to stroll downtown and stop at the Astro Gallery of Gems – Fairfax and I are huge collectors of crystals of all kinds. Then it’s on to Books of Wonder for the kids, followed by the photography shop Adorama for the Leica cameras, my weakness. 

We all love ABC Carpet & Home for things we don’t need, from tarot cards to all manner of drinking glasses. If we time it right, we’ll go to ABCV, Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s new plant-based restaurant: the spinach spaghetti and roasted mushrooms are not to be missed. 

Our afternoon stops include Grimm Gallery on The Bowery and the David Zwirner and Hauser & Wirth galleries in Chelsea. We’re building a gallery on West 25th Street, so I’ll go by and check on the progress, then we’ll walk our Maltese, Matisse in Madison Square Park and return home for a little meditation before dinner. Saturday nights are either early – at I Sodi, where you have to go at 5.30pm to get a table because the pastas are so fantastic – or late, tequila-fuelled affairs at Cosme, where the Mexican chef makes excellent marinated cobia al pastor.

Fairfax’s meals are more elaborate than mine, so Sunday’s avocado toast comes with nettles and chillies. On these leisurely mornings, we watch CBS Sunday Morning for an upbeat start, followed by CNN for the bad news – and we never miss The New York Times.

I’ll go to the Equinox gym for a quick, intensive workout. I believe the trick to consistent exercise is to not have a trainer; it’s just another relationship that gets in the way. 

In the afternoon, we’ll make time for our family band – between us we play the guitar, the ukulele and the drums. Then we’ll head to EN, the Japanese brasserie, where I order the salmon rice and steamed gingko nuts for sharing, or to Il Buco in NoHo, where the intimate atmosphere and the sinful porchetta make for a cosy and delicious meal. 

The day winds down with The Leftovers, my current favourite TV programme. Then I pack my bags for Palo Alto, or London, or Seoul…”

Alára: an ode to African creativity in Lagos

This dramatic, multilevel David Adjaye-designed Lagos concept store celebrates pan-African craft, from fashion to furnishings

“People don’t come here for basics, but for glamour,” says Reni Folawiyo, founder of Nigerian concept store Alára. Set in the burgeoning Victoria Island district of Lagos, the space is a design lovers’ dream: a multi-level theatrical building by Ghanaian-British architect David Adjaye that hosts an eclectic mix of fashion, art, furnishings and decorative objects – some sourced in Europe, but many more from other parts of Africa, including the mountains of Morocco.

Alára – or “wondrous performer” in Yoruba – was chosen by Folawiyo “because there are so many performance elements to the space,” she says of the store’s calendar of fashion shows, art exhibits and pop-ups – plus the bustle of Nok, the restaurant tucked behind the main building. It is helmed by experimental Senegalese chef Pierre Thiam, who takes classics of African cooking to new epicurean heights.

A selection of Gillian Fuller bead cuffs, $77 each, on a Danye woven placemat, $87 | Image: Lex Ash

It was a casual conversation with fashion designer Duro Olowu that led to the selection of Adjaye for this bold project to celebrate pan-African craft. “He’s African and shared my vision of discovery and wonder immediately. This was an emotional endeavour for everyone involved, as we all want our country to do well,” says Folawiyo. The result of their collaboration is a dramatic three-storey glass and metal-clad structure that’s inspired by both traditional Yoruban adire textile patterns and the saturated red colours of the Nigerian soil.

Behind the striking façade, items are displayed exhibition style; the first floor is dedicated to women’s clothing labels such as YSL, Dries Van Noten and Duro Olowu, though it is the kaleidoscopic dresses ($1,000) by Nigerian talent Amaka Osakwe that embody the Alára ethos. “Her collections [for Maki Oh] tell stories in interesting and contemporary ways and are very grounded in her culture,” Folawiyo says of Osakwe’s locally dyed silk and adire creations. Colourful accessories include beaded cuffs ($77) by South African Gillian Fuller, and iridescent earrings ($300) from Danish jeweller Monies.

A robust menswear offering “is focused on creative, informal weekend wear that is suited to the tropics,” says Folawiyo, citing jackets ($400) by Post-Imperial and cool kaftans ($300) by local designer Kenneth Ize. Customised Cartier and Rolex watches (from $33,000) by MAD Paris, rhodium and rose-gold Tateossian cufflinks (from $300) and grooming staples including Men’s Society beard oil and brushes ($100 per set) stand out on display against Adjaye’s wenge-wood finishes. 

But what makes this shopping experience so special is the continually changing finds from Folawiyo’s colourful buying trips. On any given day, embroidered Tuareg trunks from Mali might sit beside sculptures from Senegal and Burkina Faso, furniture discovered at Milan’s Salone del Mobile, north African Berber carpets ($2,000) and origami-inspired Lumio lights ($300).

But the beating heart of the store lies in those pieces created by local talents. “We encourage young African designers to pull from their rich history and culture,” says Folawiyo. “Most of all, we just hope kids will come in and see the limitless design possibilities…”

Daniele Riva’s perfect weekend on Lake Como

The master builder of the Cantiere Ernesto Riva is the eighth generation of the Como family to craft exquisite wooden boats, from simple skiffs to vaporinas, entirely by hand

“Lake Como is the best place to be in summer; the weather is good, the food excellent and it’s very safe – the doors are always open. Little has changed here over the centuries and the days are very carefree. My weekends are spent in nature, either out on the water or hiking and biking with my children, Sara and Stefano. 

Saturday starts at Poletti, in the small town of Laglio where I live; the cappuccino and jam-filled croissants are the best you’ll find anywhere. This place is an institution and everyone comes here to start their day with bread, cakes and pastries, including crisp chiacchiere during carnevale. I also like Da Luciano, another family-run place, at any time of day; it’s part café, part deli, part wine bar, and the bresaola is a must. 

After a light meal, we might hike around the lake, past the medieval Isola Comacina. The island once belonged to Milan, and when it finally gained independence in the 12th century it was burnt to the ground. Every year in late June we celebrate its independence with a festival of fireworks and music, and the island is lit up with red maritime lights. It is best to watch from the water on a Lucia, a traditional flat-bottom fishing boat; an Inglesina, a covered boat designed in the 19th century to protect the English from the strong sun; or from a vaporina, one of the chic mahogany motorboats synonymous with la dolce vita.

If we’re feeling energetic, we’ll hike all the way to Tremezzo. The villas and gardens lining the lake show off all the cultures and architectural styles that have touched this area over time, and one of my favourites to visit on a Saturday afternoon is the Villa Carlotta, across from Bellagio. The gardens are extraordinary; full of rhododendrons, azaleas, bamboo and all kinds of statues and fountains. I also love the spectacular 18th-century Villa del Balbianello, perched high above Lenno: it featured in Casino Royale and now showcases an incredible collection of artefacts from around the world.

Lenno is home to the glamorous Grand Hotel Tremezzo, but on a Saturday evening we’ll go there for La Fagurida, which serves authentic Lombardy cuisine. It has beautiful views of the lake – maybe the best – and the friendly owner, Adriana, serves excellent polenta uncia, a local dish with garlic, butter and sage. 

Il Sereno, the contemporary hotel designed by Patricia Urquiola, is another lovely spot to watch the sunset. It’s ideal for an aperitivo and they have a delicious tapas-style tasting menu. Or we might go to Blevio, home to Momi, for homemade pappardelle and fried lake fish such as perch or lavarello. The chef, Momi, holds cooking classes and will take six guests to the market in the morning and help them cook a hearty meal, prosecco in hand.

Sundays are for relaxing with friends and family and we’ll often go to Como, stopping to admire the gothic cathedral and the colourful Palazzo Broletto. La Vita è Bella, a small restaurant on the harbour is good for a light salad before visiting the fascinating Silk Museum. Como is more commercial than some of the other towns, but it has its charms. One of my favourite shops is L’Arte di Modellare il Cuoio, a little leather atelier that specialises in handmade accessories.

Later, I might take my electric boat Ernesto – named after my father – out on the lake, or we might ride the funicular up to the quaint town of Brunate, the place to enjoy mountain foods – creamy polenta, casoretta and zincarlin cheeses, and the local favourite, pizzoccheri, a buckwheat pasta dish. Full of good food and fresh air, I’m ready for the week ahead.”

A long weekend in Buenos Aires with Nacho Figueras

From the “best steak in the world” to boots fit for a prince, the polo champion and Ralph Lauren ambassador shares his local secrets with Christina Ohly Evans. Portrait by Javier Pierini

Architecturally and spiritually, Buenos Aires is a very European city, so it’s often referred to as ‘the Paris of South America’. There are a lot of similarities between the two, for sure – many of the parks and streets were designed by the same people – but in the end, the feel here is distinctly Latin. I think we have a very Spanish/Italian flair, with our love of food, style and overall enthusiasm for life. I travel the world, and no matter where else I visit, I always love BA best. It’s a magical city and it seems to exceed expectations every time.

There has been a rich mix of people and cultures over the past 100 years, and you really see that in the diverse architectural styles and neighbourhoods, as well as in the art and different cuisines. One of the most beautiful periods for Buenos Aires was the belle époque era in the early 1900s, when Argentina was one of the wealthiest countries in the world. During this time some spectacular buildings, such as the Alvear Palace Hotel in Recoleta, were built, and I always recommend a stay here if you want to feel the magic of old‑world Buenos Aires. It was totally renovated recently, but the big top-floor suites still have a classical feel and some have terraces overlooking the city.

The colourful façades of the city’s La Boca district | Image: Estock/4Corners Images

The Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt is another grand hotel that’s set in a former mansion, but it has a more minimalist feel than the Alvear. The unique thing here is the rear garden; it’s a complete urban oasis, and a great place to meet for drinks on a warm evening. Then there is the Home Hotel, in Palermo – our version of Williamsburg, Brooklyn – which has a more boutique-y feel, a Nordic-meets-South America design. The very simple but beautiful pool is surrounded by jasmine and all kinds of greenery. But of all the places to stay, one of the best-kept secrets is Estancia La Bamba de Areco, which is just an hour or so outside the city. If you’re looking for horseback riding, a real asado, authentic gauchos and polo playing, this place is just incredible.

The heart of Buenos Aires is the French heritage district of Recoleta, where you’ll find the more formal hotels and shops, as well as some of the best restaurants in the city. One of the most impressive sights here is Recoleta cemetery, which dates from the 18th century and is packed with mausoleums – some beautifully maintained and others in disrepair. Recoleta is the perfect area to shop, and Arandú is a great resource for all kinds of equestrian things; you’ll find cowboy boots, saddles and traditional gaucho bags in bright colours among three floors of gear. Florería Atlántico in Retiro is another favourite. It’s an incredibly fragrant flower shop by day and a lively bar by night, and they serve their own gin that’s flavoured with Argentinian yerba mate tea.

For a slightly more fun, funkier feel I like Palermo Soho and also the tree-lined streets of Palermo Chico. The best steak in the world is at La Cabrera, where the huge slabs of ojo de bife – or ribeye steak – are served with traditional sides and a chimichurri sauce made of garlic, chilli and coriander. The room will be packed with Argentines and tourists alike, and it’s a real taste of local life. Nicky NY is the place for sushi with a lot of ambience, but what I really love is the Harrison Speakeasy bar that’s downstairs. It has a very special, festive vibe, though getting in can be tricky.

This area has culture to offer as well, including the Museum of Latin American Art of Buenos Aires – or MALBA – where the modern and contemporary Latin American art is world class, and so is the granite building that contains the collection. The restaurant here – Ninina – is a perfect spot for a relaxing lunch outside on the patio.

Tango in San Telmo | Image: Getty Images

One of the best additions to Palermo Chico in the past few years is the concept boutique Casa Cavia. It’s set in a beautiful white mansion from the 1920s that’s been updated and now includes a restaurant, bar, flower shop and bookstore. I like to have lunch here because not only is the food excellent, the architecture is a mix of historical and contemporary features, and the scene is always lively.

If you’re looking for an haute cuisine experience, then Tegui in Palermo Viejo is the place to try star chef Germán Martitegui’s set menus, which include unique takes on Argentine classics. The chef is often there, making it feel intimate and special, and while the entrance is unassuming, it is regarded as one of the best restaurants in South America. So is Francis Mallmann’s Patagonia Sur in the colourful La Boca neighbourhood. It’s set in a brightly painted private house that only has space for a few people and offers a fixed six-course menu. I take every special guest here – Ralph Lauren, for example – and it’s a wow every time.

Congress Square in the heart of the city | Image: Getty Images/EyeEm

The more eclectic San Telmo neighbourhood is another area for exploration, and one of the best shops there is Juan Carlos Pallarols. This silversmith has an international following, and he makes things like the Pope’s chalice – Pope Francis is Argentinian – as well as silver roses and sets of steak knives. He is a true craftsman and his work is so intricate and specific to Buenos Aires. The area comes to life on Sundays, when the Feria de San Telmo antiques fair is held. It’s like our version of the Marché aux Puces, and you can find treasures ranging from early-20th-century linens to full sets of silverware to leather bags and furniture.

There are certain things associated with Buenos Aires, and tango, polo and football are all top of the list. For football fans, a Boca Juniors game is a must; the atmosphere is electric. You’ll find tango all over the city, but the performance at the Faena Hotel in Puerto Madero is among the best, as Rojo Tango gets the top dancers. Although it’s a modern hotel, this is the place to see this musical art form.

Recoleta’s Alvear Palace Hotel recently had a total renovation

Polo is a huge part of my life, but also life in Buenos Aires generally. In November, the Argentine Open is played in fields in the middle of the city and everyone turns out. Polo is played every day at the Cría Yatay polo club, on one of my estancias outside the city, where I also give lessons on occasion and where we host various club matches. This city is a great place to buy kit for the sport, and for polo boots there is none better than Casa Fagliano in Hurlingham. It’s about an hour outside the city, but worth it for the custom boots that are favoured by Prince Charles and the Sultan of Brunei. The family that runs it is amazing; three generations work in the shop, fitting and sewing the boots, and the whole experience feels like being in Geppetto’s workshop.

In the General Díaz area, where I live, there is a great shop for all things to do with tack, called Logi Polo. You’ll find everything here – from helmets to cool T-shirts to polo mallets, of course. For visitors to this area, I always recommend Fettuccine Mario for dinner. It’s a very special restaurant that gives any Italian trattoria a run for its money. This place is old-school; the knowledgeable waiters – most of whom have been there for 25 years – wear white jackets and there is nothing fussy or corporate in sight.

We’re still a little slower here than the rest of the world, and I mean this in the best sense. In general, it’s stayed the same over the years and that’s a good thing. It still feels special and historical, minus the cellphones. Honestly, an excellent cellphone service is a modern curse. I hope people will come here and put away their phones for just a little while, because there is so much beauty to see and so much to experience.

A long weekend in New York with David Adjaye

The celebrated architect – currently building his first residential tower in Manhattan – talks cocktails in Dumbo and art in Harlem with Christina Ohly Evans. Portrait by Nicholas Calcott

I first came to New York as a wide-eyed architecture student in the 1990s and was immediately in awe of the greatest metropolitan skyline of the 20th century. It is truly a 24-hour city and the energy of it is just fascinating; it’s a world prototype for how different communities can come together and create a model of density. 

I divide my time between London, New York and Accra, but my home here is in Harlem. And while I spend much of my time uptown, I find charm in every neighbourhood, including the outer boroughs. I especially love Prospect Park in Brooklyn – which feels like more of a hidden, suburban area – and also the burgeoning Financial District. 

The terrace at Cecconi’s in Dumbo, Brooklyn, ideal for cocktails | Image: Dave Burk

In London you have about 30 different neighbourhoods that are all like little hamlets crashed into each other, but in New York there is a very different kind of urbanism. You can almost do resort breaks in this city: if you’re bored in a certain area, you can go to a park in a different borough, or walk along the water somewhere else. That diversity is its power. Another strength is the authentic intermingling of cultures and groups, which intertwine at moments to produce something new and beautiful, and diverge at others to allow differences to be preserved and respected. 

One of the things New York does really, really well is tall buildings. Some of the best skyscraper architecture is downtown, including the iconic Woolworth Building and the Potter Building, with its fantastic, deep façade. Their craftsmanship and detailing make them not only unique but beloved. You can sense the human hand in their design and construction and they have inspired my current condominium project at 130 William Street. 

There’s an organic quality to the layout downtown versus the more regimental grid uptown; and the incredible density of scale in this part of lower Manhattan is unlike anything in Europe. I’ve discovered a whole new world of amazing artisans, restaurants and shops down here, such as the incredible floral designs of Emily Thompson Flowers. The Beekman, with its dramatic atrium, has been faithfully restored and is a lovely hotel from which to explore some of the city’s first streets. Augustine is a new favourite for fantastic, unfussy food, while The Wooly Public – in the original restaurant space of the Woolworth Building – serves dishes that pay homage to the 1913 menu. It’s a fun play with the area’s history. 

When friends come to New York I’ll often recommend they stay at The Mercer in SoHo; André Balazs is a master of crafting hotel experiences that reflect the cities they’re in, and this is no exception. The Mercer Kitchen is a great place to meet for a drink before dinner at Mission Chinese Food – an incredibly lively, fun spot that represents downtown done well. SoHo is also perfect for shopping: the fashion store Opening Ceremony on Howard Street is incredible. I think what Humberto [Leon] and Carol [Lim] have achieved there is remarkable, and the store is truly a trendsetter and a global destination. Rick Owens’ flagship, with its stark space that lets the collection shine, is another shop I always have to visit.

The northernmost stretch of the High Line at the Rail Yards | Image: Iwan Baan

Obviously, this city is rich in museums and galleries. Salon 94 on the Upper East Side is a great alternative to conventional white-box galleries, as visitors can experience artworks and performances in a furnished, inhabited space. And The Noguchi Museum in Long Island City is the perfect spotlight for a brilliant mind: the artist’s works are highlighted beautifully in a very peaceful space. 

David Zwirner and Luhring Augustine are excellent galleries as well, and, of course, Marian Goodman is a must: Tony Cragg’s show there last year was stunning. The Brooklyn Museum has brought some of the most exciting and innovative exhibitions to the city, and its permanent collection is both daring and contextual, while The Studio Museum in Harlem is unparalleled in the way it supports both artists and its community. It’s incredibly rare to find an institution with a keen sensitivity to both these groups – its director and chief curator Thelma Golden is a national treasure. In terms of combining culture and food you can’t get more New York than The Modern, which overlooks MoMA’s sculpture garden: the restaurant is consistently good and integrated seamlessly into the institution.

The Beekman hotel in downtown Manhattan

The Upper East Side holds a particular charm for me, with its incredible mansion blocks and a street life that feels very much like London. It’s packed with cultural places, restaurants and local shops, and despite the height of some of the buildings and the density, it has a unique intimacy and generosity. I always recommend a stay at The Lowell because the rooms are cosy and personal; they feel almost like apartments.

The area also houses one of the world’s great modernist buildings, The Met Breuer. It’s a remarkable study in contrasts: the insular presence of the exterior, and the openness and intimacy of the interiors. A few blocks away is an Italian restaurant called Sette Mezzo, which I like for the grilled salmon and old-world feel – it harks back to a bygone era, when neighbourhood communities felt entrenched.

Prospect Park in Brooklyn | Image: Getty Images

I am a huge admirer of landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted, and beyond Central Park I really love Prospect and Fort Greene Parks, both in Brooklyn. Prospect Park is a masterpiece: the bucolic beating heart of Brooklyn that is at once a retreat and a cultural hub. Fort Greene Park is a great example of neighbourhood place-making. It’s a true community gathering space with an extremely local feel. And after a day spent in Brooklyn, there’s no better place than Cecconi’s, in Dumbo, for a cocktail with great skyline views on a summer evening.

Back uptown in Harlem there is such a rich history; in many ways it represents the quintessence of black urban modernity across the globe. Architecturally there are so many inspiring elements – from the iconic brownstone stoops to the beautiful churches with dramatic interiors, like the First Corinthian Baptist Church and the Salvation and Deliverance Church. Sometimes I’ll take friends to the Sunday church services at the Abyssinian Baptist Church – not so much for religious reasons, but because I just love the singing and the atmosphere. 

An artistic Harlem highlight is Gavin Brown’s Enterprise, with its series of dramatic exhibition spaces. And, of course, there’s the Apollo. This theatre represents the successes and struggles of Harlem as the epicentre of urban black life, and the sense of history is palpable. 

One of the best restaurants – and definitely the best jerk chicken – in the area is Red Rooster; not only is [chef] Marcus [Samuelsson] a culinary genius, but this place represents to me the true promise of New York, which is a space that actually supports and embraces diversity, and that is at once specific and personal. A more under-the-radar place is Accra Restaurant, which serves completely authentic Ghanaian food – plantain fufu, jollof rice – in a simple, lively setting. 

When a city succeeds, it gives spaces back to its residents – like the High Line, or the wonderful little parks and squares that are found between the office towers in midtown Manhattan. Both New York and London are struggling with environmental issues and we need bold vision and leadership to keep imagining the possibilities for these magical, underused spaces. The mayors of both cities are exemplary in that they are both for the public – and when you get it right the money follows, because it creates a quality of place. I believe architecture can be a big part of that.

Californian jewellery mecca Neuwirth

The vibrant, whimsical jewellery and eclectic decor at this West Hollywood boutique are the characterful ying to Rodeo Drive’s yang

It was a walk along opulent Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills that prompted LA-based jeweller Irene Neuwirth to open her eponymous shop in nearby – but decidedly lower-key – West Hollywood. “The high jewellery stores that line that street always felt a bit intimidating and I wanted to create the antithesis of that,” says Neuwirth of the light-filled boutique on Melrose Place she opened in 2014. “This is a place where people can relax and even have lunch while browsing, and everything is meant to be touched,” she says. “There are elements of a traditional jewellery store, but really it’s just an inviting space that’s a reflection of me.”

With her heart set on this historic building with its ivy-covered façade, Neuwirth enlisted the help of Pam Shamshiri of LA’s Commune Design to create an eclectic backdrop for the colourful, whimsical pieces she designs for clients including Ruth Negga and Julia Louis-Dreyfus. White plaster walls, gently curving archways and marble floors all lend an organic feel, while jewelled sconces from legendary set designer Tony Duquette’s estate, a vintage pink couch and hand-knotted Moroccan rugs add unexpected touches.

From top: turquoise, diamond pavé and gold ring, $6,930, and opal, turquoise and gold earrings, $3,260 | Image: Amanda Friedman

Sleek vitrines and a dramatic diorama by LA artists Clare Crespo and Marine Panossian display the creations to dazzling effect. Her style is a vibrant mix of rare, semiprecious and precious stones – opals have long been her signature (opal and turquoise earrings, $3,260), often in their raw state, set in burnished or satin-finished 18ct gold. 

Among her most sought-after pieces are her pear-shaped Cutout Drop earrings ($2,440) in various shades of burnished gold, including a pair ($6,890) with Akoya pearls. Necklaces have a California cool-meets‑Rajasthan vibe, with eye-catching offerings such as a 46cm rose-gold chain ($67,960) adorned with “charms” of pink Australian opal, moonstone, tourmaline, beryl, Mexican fire opal and full-cut diamonds. Satin-finished rose-gold bangles ($6,530) studded with onyx cabochons, a carved turquoise ring  with diamond pavé ($6,930), and aquamarine and turquoise cabochon pendants (from $730) are more classic in style.

Bespoke pieces have included a stunning tiara (price on request) with Mozambique rubies crafted for last year’s Oscars, shoulder-dusting sapphire and tourmaline earrings (price on request) for the Met Gala in oxidised 18ct white gold and mismatched cufflinks (price on request) made of raw diamonds.

No detail of the store has been overlooked – from the flamingo topiaries that flank the entrance to the hand-held vintage mirrors with sunsets and swirling vines by local artist Aaron Morse. The store’s eat-in kitchen, complete with Lacanche stove, adds warmth to the space and invites visitors to linger – Neuwirth often hosts clients there, serving lunches such as vermicelli with mint and cucumber from the store’s neighbours, Croft Alley. “The boutique is a sensory experience and we encourage people to try things on,” she says. “Who knows? If not now, they might wish to have a piece later.”

“I struck literal gold with the discovery of this jeweller on hippy-chic Hydra”

Fine jewellery and graphic home accessories hit the hot spot at Elena Votsi

I have a thing for evil eyes – the little talismans intended to ward off a malevolent stare – and nowhere have I found them to be more abundant, or more beautiful, than in Greece. On a recent trip to the hippy-chic island of Hydra, just south of Athens, I struck literal gold with the discovery of Elena Votsi, a jeweller whose work is inspired by the sun and the surrounding Aegean Sea of her birthplace and who has worked on pieces in collaboration with Ralph Lauren.

Set in a whitewashed building on Hydra’s main harbour, Elena Votsi’s shop is a treasure trove of modern Greek finds

Set in a whitewashed historic Hydriot building on the island’s main harbour, the artist’s eponymous shop is a treasure trove of modern Greek finds. Simple, sleek display cases highlight both her bohemian designs, all handmade in Greece – think colourful leather lariats with silver fish pendants (€45-€65) and casual clutches (€140) emblazoned with Greek flags – as well as her more geometric fine jewellery pieces.

I was instantly won over by Votsi’s white ceramic mugs (€40-€90) with simple red and blue graphics of donkeys, fish and nautical flags – all symbols of island life – as well as by her cushions and assorted textiles (from €55) bearing contemporary versions of the traditional evil eye. If I had been travelling with more than a carry-on bag, I would have done some serious damage in this charming boutique, but as I refuse to check in luggage, my buying opportunities were limited to smaller, portable mementos.

Elena Votsi ceramic mugs, €40-€90 each

I had a lot of fun trying on a selection of jewellery, particularly brilliant red and sea-green ceramic evil-eye pendants (€650-€1,200) set in 14 and 18ct gold, eventually settling on a one-of-a-kind white marble disc (€1,100) with a miniscule evil eye engraved in gold at the centre. On the other side, the piece is inscribed with the uplifting Greek words for “light” and “life”. Sweet Christos Daskarakis, the store manager, tried to talk me out of buying the matching chain – “Surely you have one at home?” he reasoned – but the weight of Votsi’s links struck me as perfect for the charm, so I went for the whole package.

Elena Votsi marble and gold disc pendant, €1,100

For those in search of precious items that will translate well from beach life to the city, the store offers many of the exquisite pieces that Votsi – a Royal College of Art alum – is so well known for. I was particularly taken with one-of-a-kind stone “heart” pendants (from €7,000) accented with tiny gemstones; a diamond Eros ring (€11,000) set in 18ct yellow gold with white diamonds; and a magnificent gold charm necklace (€28,000) embellished with shells and sharks’ teeth.

Elena Votsi gold charm necklace, €28,000

Of all the evil-eye trinkets I amassed on this trip – Christmas tree ornaments, bracelets, a cerulean paperweight – my statement-making necklace is by far the most meaningful. I’ve worn it virtually every day since I returned home – with casual T-shirts or for a night out – and it reminds me of a spectacular trip and a truly unique island vibe.

Custom cookware in silver and copper

Duparquet pans are entirely handcrafted

It was a holiday in Burgundy – and in particular a transcendent meal at famed restaurant La Côte d’Or – that spurred mechanical engineer Jim Hamann to pursue his passion for pans. Inspired by the cookware of the region, Hamann returned home to Rhode Island and opened a studio restoring pots and pans of varying sizes and vintages, such as early-1900s American-made copper frying pans, and tin- and silver-lined sauté pans from Le Cordon Bleu.

Full 22-piece sets of silver-lined copper cookware ($12,500-$15,000) and solid-silver sets (from $50,000) can also be commissioned

Hamann’s love of food and product design meet in the custom cookware he now crafts for a growing global clientele that includes chefs Alain Ducasse and Daniel Humm of Eleven Madison Park. What began as a range of copper pots and pans – 6in fait-tout models for sauces ($380) and larger sauté versions ($650) – has grown to include a made-to-order selection of stunning solid-silver pans “that have more even heat conductivity than copper,” says Hamann.

Sizes, grips and other embellishments can be altered according to a client’s specific tastes. In general, there are 12 different sizes to choose from, with 9in omelette and frying pans ($2,800) among the most popular. Straight-sided sauté pans in 8.75in and 12.5in sizes (up to $10,000) are other common requests, and each is solid silver with sterling silver rivets. Only the handles are made of cast iron ­– “because they don’t conduct heat,” Hamann explains – and covered in hand-stitched leather. Full 22-piece sets of silver-lined copper cookware ($12,500-$15,000) and solid-silver sets (from $50,000) can also be commissioned, though clients need to be prepared to wait as more complex orders can take three months or more.

Hand-stitched leather covers the cast iron handles of the pots and pans

All the craftsmanship – from the pans to matching copper inlaid maple burl and teak knives (from $190-$230) and the leather detailing – is performed by Hamman and his small team. The only exceptions are the linen-lined ash boxes custom made for each pan by a local Rhode Island School of Design student “who is both a furniture designer and a foodie,” says Hamman.

Dine like Dior

Christian Dior was passionate about cuisine and couture, and the Hôtel Plaza Athénée – the address where he showed his inaugural collection – has created a menu inspired by the designer’s cult cookbook

Haute couture meets haute cuisine at the Hôtel Plaza Athénée, Paris, where those in town for fashion week (July 1-5) can sample the Menu Dior at Le Relais Plaza restaurant – created by chef Philippe Marc under the command of multi-Michelin-starred chef Alain Ducasse. Christian Dior was a passionate gourmet, and the three-course dinner (€90) – inspired by the designer’s cult cookbook La Cuisine Cousu-Main, published in 1972 – features a selection of his favourite dishes.

A Dior model at the hotel in 1947

The brasserie’s art deco setting – modelled on legendary liner the SS Normandie – creates a stylish backdrop for a starter of mimosa egg with smoked haddock and a green Granny Smith apple garnish, followed by succulent grilled lamb chops with braised lettuce and thick-cut, crispy potato savonnettes bathed in a delicate jus. The designer’s pièce de résistance, a seasonal strawberry Melba, tops off the evening.

Le Relais Plaza restaurant in 1937 – the art deco interior was inspired by the SS Normandie

The hotel facade as Christian Dior would have seen it

The palace hotel figured prominently in Christian’s Dior’s life – in 1947 he established his atelier across the street at 30 Avenue Montaigne, and he showed his inaugural collection at the hotel. Later, Dior’s iconic Bar suit was named after the Plaza Athénée’s cocktail lounge.

Dine in a Jean Cocteau work of art

It was a place of escape for Jean Cocteau and a summer gathering spot for Coco Chanel, Marlene Dietrich and Pablo Picasso – now guests at Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat can enjoy fine dining at La Villa Santo Sospir

Fine art meets fine dining on the French Riviera from June 1 through to August 15, when guests at the Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat can savour the surroundings of the iconic Villa Santo Sospir. The villa was a summer retreat of the poet, writer, artist and filmmaker Jean Cocteau, and a gathering place for luminaries such as Coco Chanel, Marlene Dietrich and Pablo Picasso. It sits high above the Mediterranean and is an ideal venue for a Michelin-starred, entirely bespoke, four-course dinner orchestrated by the hotel’s executive chef Yoric Tièche.

The dining experience will begin on the terrace where guests will enjoy the artist’s favourite aperitif – the bitter La Suze – while watching the sunset

Over the course of several years in the 1950s, Cocteau enlivened the residence of Francine Weisweiller (a patron to both Cocteau and Yves Saint Laurent) with a series of colourful murals, mosaics and frescoes – all of which remain today and make for a unique setting. The fine dining experiences can be arranged for up to six people and begin with a transfer from the Grand-Hôtel to the villa, followed by a tour of the property with long-time estate manager, Eric Marteau. After viewing Cocteau’s immersive masterpiece, guests will retire to the terrace to sip the artist’s favourite aperitif – the bitter La Suze – while watching the sunset.

A view of the intimate dining room where guests will be served a Michelin-starred, entirely bespoke, four-course dinner

The bedrooms are also adorned with Cocteau’s murals

The real fun, however, begins at dinner (from €4,200 for two, €286 per additional person and €150 per child under 12), a culinary odyssey conceived by chef Tièche and orchestrated by an on-site chef and maître d’ as guests are seated in the intimate sitting room – a spot where Cocteau and his friends once dined. 

A view of the dining area adjoining the sitting room at La Villa Santo Sospir

An appetiser of tartare de poisson | Image: Jean-Claude Amiel

The menus feature plenty of fresh fish and pay homage to the artist with the inclusion of some of his favourite dishes, such as roasted veal filet with girolle mushrooms and a savoury-sweet peach and almond purée, as well as a fricassée of lobster with black garlic. Appetisers include seasonal vegetable salads and catch-of-the-day tartares, while a verbena-infused apricot with sorbet makes for a refreshing endnote to the meal.

Benjamin Millepied’s favourite bespoke shoemaker

The founder of LA Dance Project and former artistic director of the Paris Opera Ballet reveals to Christina Ohly Evans why the ethics as much as the aesthetics of sneaker brand Feit seduced him.

As a dancer, I’m obviously very sensitive about my feet. Added to that, I tore the plantar fascia in both feet when I was in my 20s – so the way a shoe feels and supports is incredibly important to me. When I met [Feit co-founder] Tull Price about seven years ago, I was intrigued by the fact that his focus was on bespoke leather sneakers and immediately responded to the level of artistry and attention to detail he gives his shoes. He only uses the best natural materials, and his methods of production are unlike those of any other maker I’ve found – and I’ve tried many. Even the latex soles are made from the milk of rubber-tree plants.

It was Feit’s ethos as much as its streamlined aesthetics that resonated with me from the beginning. Most of what we surround ourselves with today – including our shoes – is petroleum based, so Feit is Tull’s reaction to automation and chemical products. All the pairs are handmade using a single piece of leather, giving them an almost Japanese aesthetic that I can dress up or down.

My first pair were navy high-tops with leather laces, and I still wear them all the time. The vegetable-tanned leather manages to be soft, but gives my foot and ankle a lot of support, and they work just as well with jeans as they do with an Ermenegildo Zegna suit. They get more attention than almost any other item in my wardrobe.

Since that first pair, Tull has made more than 10 other pairs of bespoke shoes for me; I also have slip-ons and various takes on the classic Oxford. They’re all well worn, but my favourites are the classic Oxfords in black semi-Cordovan leather, beige Biotrainers that are modelled on a running shoe, and a pair of low lace‑ups in marine-blue suede.

Because Tull has my lasts, he’ll often send me ideas for new pairs that he thinks will work – most recently white slip-ons for LA. But I’ve currently got my eye on commissioning some sneakers in black crackle leather; the finish is really unusual and they’ll be great for travelling.

Whenever I’m in New York, I’ll stop by one of Tull’s two stores – in Nolita or the West Village – to check out new styles and share ideas about comfort and design. We’ve even collaborated on a short film together and there are other ideas in the pipeline. The fact that Tull and I are now good friends makes the whole process of ordering a pair of shoes even more enjoyable.

Bespoke boats and floats for stylish summer days

From sublimely elegant canoes to custom sea cabanas – small but perfectly formed excuses to get out on the water

High-performance heirlooms The bespoke boats produced by Artisan Boatworks, based in Rockport, Maine, are nothing short of spectacular – wooden heirlooms that are delivered all over the world. With years of combined seafaring experience, this design collective – led by master builder Alec Brainerd – is inspired by the yachting greats to create environmentally sustainable custom vessels that “blend timeless beauty and wholesome performance”. From precise replicas of classic designs to the latest in high-performance carbon-fibre and cold-moulded daysailers, racers and cruisers, they are built to endure. The classic rowboat – a Nutshell pram with Norwegian origins, or a Catspaw dinghy (from about $5,000-$50,000) – can be elevated to high art. Tantalising tailored options include the Buzzards Bay 15 class ($200,000), Bar Harbor 31 ($1.4m) and custom 24ft yacht tender ($500,000). artisanboatworks.com.

Preszler Woodshop handcrafted canoe, built up in hundreds of layers of different woods

World-class canoes Each of artisan boatmaker Trent Preszler’s exquisitely handcrafted wooden canoes ($100,000) is slowly built up in hundreds of layers of different woods – from ash, cedar and walnut to zebrawood, purpleheart and ziricote – and takes around a year to complete in his Long Island studio. But this does not deter Preszler’s clients. The interior finishes are just as elegant, with woven hemp and leather seats crafted by Texas Heritage Woodworks, while solid bronze cutwaters, cast by Long Island’s Kai Design, add to the modern profile. So sleek and sculptural are the results, some clients have purchased them as works of art, but Preszler says this defeats the purpose: “I always tell people they have to paddle it, because that’s what it was intended for.” preszlerwoodshop.com.

ParrLuxe customisable luxury sea cabanas provide portable relaxation on the waves

Guillemot Kayaks work collaboratively with clients on design, and craft each custom vessel by hand-fitting hundreds of pieces of wood

Supreme sea cabanas Yacht owners who love to swim and lie in the sun are faced with the conundrum of where to lounge comfortably and also be close to the water. ParrLuxe founder Stuart Parr (who oversaw the Marc Newson-produced Aquarama Super for Italian boatmaker Riva) solved this problem with customisable luxury sea cabanas that afford portable relaxation on the waves. These inflatable devices (from $35,000) are hand-built in Italy from luxurious, durable materials – Pennel & Flipo’s Orca (the “Gore-Tex of the marine world”), carbon fibre, stainless steel, polished teak and the softest terry cloth. They accommodate 12-18 people, depending on their size, making them über-rafts for groups or families. Parr incorporates finishes that match the cabana to a yacht or design scheme, and although the standard size for a canopied watercraft is 13ft x 17ft, variations can be made, with an assortment of sun-protective tarps and Bimini tops. There’s even a natural plunge-pool option that allows seawater in through protective netting, keeping marine creatures at bay. parrluxe.com.

Class-of-their-own kayaks “There is a particular quality about a finely crafted wooden kayak; its motion through the water seems somehow smoother than other kayaks, and the sweep of the sheer and smooth arc of the deck draws the hand as well as the eye,” says Nick Schade of Guillemot Kayaks. Schade works collaboratively with clients on design, and crafts each custom vessel by hand-fitting hundreds of pieces of wood. His Standard model kayaks (from $15,000) are strip-built, often in red cedar or marine plywood. Each laminated vessel includes subtle accent stripes and is designed to provide responsive motion in high seas or calm inlets. Commissions take three to six months. For all-round performance, the Guillemot ($15,000-$30,000), with its shallow V bottom and hard chine, is the ultimate choice. This kayak – complete with rich mahogany finishes, recessed wooden hardware and custom upholstery – is offered in a range of sizes. Bespoke graphics are Schade’s speciality: he meticulously matches wood strips and incorporates inlaid marquetry. Paddles are also made to order (from $500) to ensure proper weight and fit. +1860-659 8847; woodenkayaks.com.

Laid-back lunch in Connecticut from a Noma alumnus

Laid-back lunch in Connecticut from a Noma alumnus

When I think of Kent, Connecticut, images of rolling hills, prep schools and antique shops dotted across quaint villages all come to mind. Less often associated with the area are design-led restaurants with Noma-level cuisine and service – but that’s exactly what I found at Swyft on a recent trip to Litchfield County, two hours north of New York City.

Swyft opened at the end of last year in an 18th century Connecticut house

The restaurant opened at the end of last year in an 18th-century house and combines original immense stone fireplaces and post-and-beam construction with simple furnishings, lighting and greenery courtesy of an all-star team with design credits that include work at Claridge’s, The Carlyle and Calvin Klein Home.

The kitchen is helmed by chef Joel Viehland, a local celebrity who has cooked at Noma and Gramercy Tavern, as well as at the award-winning Community Table in nearby Washington. What I loved about Swyft from the outset was the casual atmosphere; a dove-grey exterior set the stage for a meal that was low-key and delicious. We all – with ages ranging from 15 to 75 years – fell for what the chef calls his “elevated average Joe” menu, with offerings such as agrodolce-topped burgers with beef-tallow fries and blistered, sourdough margherita pizzas with mozzarella and burrata (the cheese is made in the kitchens).

Swyft chef Joel Viehland

Swyft – named for the family that originally built the house – is an enticing place for a laid-back lunch regardless of the season, but it was particularly cosy on a recent cold spring day. Standout dishes included a proper Cubano sandwich with slow-cooked pork shoulder and Gruyère, and Caldo Verde – a Portuguese potato and kale soup with Linguiça sausage. Grain salads with zingy za’atar dressing, an elegant take on the old-school BLT and a simple-yet-spicy Cacio e Pepe pasta rounded out the menu.

Pickled mussel toast with saffron aioli and bread baked in Swyft's wood oven

But it was those fantastic sourdough pizzas that were our clear favourites, made using a 30-year-old starter, and a Pavesi wood-fired oven from Naples. The Rhode Island – a white version with clams and pancetta – and the Rosso with stracciatella, garlic and oregano were both crispy perfection. And the oven might be imported, but the fresh produce is local and discernible – many of the toppings used come from nearby Rock Cobble Farm.

Later this summer, Viehland will open Ore Hill next door. This fine dining restaurant will offer tasting menus that he hopes will push boundaries in terms of ingredients and flavour combinations, without adding pretention. I, for one, can’t wait to return to Swyft for the La Pienza pizza with wild boar sausage, porcini and roasted peppers, never mind whatever multicourse masterpiece Viehland cooks up at his next venture.

Serious sourdough aficionados’ chosen bakery

Tartine Manufactory’s 100-seat restaurant and bakery is worth the queue

Though sourdough may now be considered almost a given on the menu of any dining establishment worth its starter, serious dough aficionados will know that the mecca for modern artisanal sourdough is Tartine, a San Franciscan bakery founded in 2002 by husband-and-wife partners Liz Prueitt and Chad Robertson. It enjoys a global clientele, including Michelin-starred chefs who come to apprentice in its sprawling kitchens.

Tartine Manufactory, housed in a converted laundry factory, is a 100-seat bakery, restaurant and wine bar

I really didn’t think the whole, now much-copied experience – its famous crusty baguettes, molten chocolate chip cookies and tart blood orange jam – could be improved upon, but they’ve done it with Tartine Manufactory, a 100-seat bakery, restaurant and wine bar. In a converted laundry factory, this Mission District gem opened in 2016 and draws local techies and curious epicures, all of whom happily queue (and there will be a queue) for the array of sweet and savoury delights on offer.

In addition to the wonderful smell from the bakery that greeted me on a recent visit to the space, there is also a convivial buzz as the bakers tend to the huge ovens with long wooden paddles, churning out country sourdough and wholewheat sesame loaves, as well as assorted olive fougasse and oat porridge breads. Dramatic floor-to-ceiling windows let that magical California light stream in, and the overall effect is one of a bustling hive.

A loaf of freshly baked sourdough bread

I arrived for lunch on a busy weekday with three gourmand friends who know the restaurant well, and between us we managed to try just about one of everything on the delicious menu. There are Scandinavian, Japanese, French, Italian and Middle Eastern influences – think smørrebrød and burrata with Meyer lemon and pistachio ($10) – as well as Northern California nods to both local produce and the prevailing preference for vegan cuisine.  

Pain au chocolat, $5

I over-ordered – it all looked so tantalising. A starter of chewy sourdough bread ($5) with creamy butter for the table was a no-brainer and deeply satisfying. They serve beer, wine and coffee all day but we opted for non-alcoholic “Shrub” spritzes ($7), made with essences of strawberry and plum.

The Mission District gem has become a firm favourite of local techies and curious epicures

Each dish that followed seemed better than the last – a flavourful California halibut crudo ($17) with kiwi, leek, puffed rice, mint and coriander; and a little gem salad ($15) sprinkled with carrots, pickled rhubarb, herb ricotta and a splash of Meyer lemon. The hits just kept coming: coddled eggs ($16) with sea trout roe, fresh horseradish and zesty Za’atar toast; gooey grilled cheese ($14) made with Fontina and roasted squash on country bread. Everything is served atop minimalist but earthy bowls and plates by Heath Ceramics in subtle shades of sand and cocoa that just add to the overall sense of aesthetic perfection.

After so many shared dishes, I was sated and opted for dessert to go. Orange sesame teacakes, brioche and jam buns, pecan tarts, and chocolatey swirled breads all beckoned, but ultimately it was the fresh ginger and buckwheat cookies ($4.50) filled with fior di latte that won me over. The ice cream at the in-house Cookies and Cream parlour comes in tempting flavours and the PB&J pie (made with Concord grape sorbet mixed with ice cream, grape pâte de fruit, candied peanuts and peanut cookie shell) is already legendary, so I’ve vowed to return next summer for a meal comprised entirely of these decadent frozen delicacies.

Solakzade: a subterranean temple of vintage spectacles and sunglasses

From 200-year-old gold frames to 1940s Ray-Bans and new creations encrusted with jewels, this Tokyo emporium is a must for lovers of extraordinary eyewear

In the basement of Tokyo’s iconic Goro’s Building (the orange townhouse in Harajuku where shoppers queue for hours to buy Goro Takahashi’s silver feather jewellery) is Solakzade, a subterranean mini-temple of vintagespectacles and sunglasses. There is little street signage and no window display to signal what lies within, but in-the-know visitors will find an eclectic and ever-changing inventory of classic and cutting-edge styles – all in mint condition.

1990s Jean-Paul Gaultier eyewear, about £400 | Image: Jeremie Souteyrat

Launched in this space in 2012 by brothers Ryo and Tatsuya Okamoto, Solakzade counts Kanye West and Kate Moss among its stylish clientele. “Our customers tend to be vintage lovers who might fall for rare, perfectly restored frames from the 1820s made of coin silver or solid gold [£400-£2,285] yet still look fresh and cool,” says Tatsuya. A journey through the 20th century could uncover original 1940s Ray-Ban aviators (from £320); 1960s Christian Diorsunglasses (from £330) featuring butterflies and the Eiffel Tower; and 1990s Jean-Paul Gaultier designs (about £400) with rose-tinted lenses.

The intimate space’s Italian 1970s chandeliers and antique mirrors cast a dusky glow over glass vitrines showcasing punky finds from cult avant-garde Japanese brand Matsuda (from about £300), alongside oversized futuristic styles from the 1960s by Philippe Chevalier (from £800), the under-the-radar designer of Lanvin’s eyewear line, and Pierre Cardin (from £330). There’s a vintage American Optical picture on the wall, while original Piaget and Cartier boutique display items – “we love vintage everything…” – adorn the marble countertops. And for very special customers a secret mirrored door leads to an equally enveloping VIP room.

Platinum-plated aviators (from £760) by Cartier – “best known for its fine jewellery but also one of the greatest brands in eyewear history,” says Tatsuya – sit comfortably beside Solakzade’s small selection of antique gold jewellery, displayed in drawers. Here the focus is on signet rings (19th-century English lapis ring, £2,500) and French tank rings (second world war-era gold and natural-cut diamond ring, price on request), but equally seductive are the bracelets, including a 1940s French gold tank bracelet, £4,600.

While Tatsuya handles buying trips across the globe, it’s Ryo who specialises in restoration, customisation and the brand’s bespoke eyewear. His limited edition and one-off creations include 18ct gold frames (made to order, from £5,000) embellished with Nepalese and Indian emeralds, sapphires and diamonds. Solakzade also handles everything from eye tests and prescription lenses to frame adjustments in its adjacent atelier, where the brothers delight in spending time with each customer – often 30 minutes or more – discussing what they call “cosmetic perspective”. “We like to think of our glasses as wearable works of art, and there is something to suit every face shape and skin tone,” says Tatsuya. “Those bold black Mad Men styles, for example, are simply too overpowering for some.” None of the frames are flea-market finds. “Making glasses is a beautiful craft and the condition of every pair is crucial. It’s what sets us apart.”

The plaster maker of the moment: Stephen Antonson

Extremely chic, bespoke lighting and furniture crafted from a super-simple material

With a roster of discerning private clients and designers that includes Daniel Romualdez, Robert Couturier, Michael Smith and David Collins Studio, the bespoke work of Brooklyn-based plaster artist Stephen Antonson is much in demand. A specialist in lighting and furniture created using handpainted layers of chalky-white, matte plaster, Antonson is noted for his bold use of this simple material – favoured by Jean-Michel Frank, Serge Roche and Giacometti, and recognised for its subtle textural properties and resilience.

Macklin centre table, 42in x 29in, from the Shackleton collection

“People don’t necessarily think of plaster as a functional material, but we make tables ($3,000-$90,000) in all sorts of finishes that can be used as dining surfaces or for work purposes,” says Antonson of his sculptural, sometimes almost surreal, pieces. Each is created with a steel or wood base that is then layered with plaster much as a painter applies oil to a canvas, before being painted, sanded and finished with paint.

The sculptural James pendant light adds minimalist texture to the living room of a Soho penthouse | Image: Stephen Kent Johnson

A cheeky, historic-inspired bust takes centre stage in Antonson’s Brooklyn studio | Image: Matt Carr

But it is Antonson’s light fixtures that clients are currently clamouring for; whether chandeliers, such as the 4m model with 18 lights made for a Hamptons home, or the geometric Morandi sconces ($4,200) and table lamps (from $3,500). Each of Antonson’s larger chandeliers (from $10,000) takes 12 weeks to produce, while smaller commissions can take just a few weeks. The latest additions to Antonson’s range are torchières ($6,500) that stand 2m tall and cast a gentle glow.

“The possibilities with plaster are almost limitless,” says Antonson – he has created entire rooms from the material, such as an entryway for designer David Mann that included walls, shelving, a mirror and ceiling covered in seashells. He has fun with smaller objects (from $600) such as Zig Zag candlesticks, bowls and cheeky faux-historical busts. “There is this misconception that plaster is fragile,” he says, “but it can withstand weight as well as spills, and can be extremely elegant. It may be a humble material, but it’s one that really lets you see the hand of an artisan.”

A long weekend in Los Angeles with Kelly Wearstler

From health-conscious eateries to pioneering galleries and fashion emporia – the city’s glamorous interior designer shares her address book with Christina Ohly Evans.

“The weather is always a draw in LA. Probably because in a world that feels increasingly frenetic and fast-paced, the relaxed, outdoor lifestyle is very accessible – and appealing. The city gets 47.3 million visitors each year; many come to feel the allure of Hollywood, but a lot also come from other creative fields: fashion, music, food. The art world, especially, has really exploded here over the past few years. It’s an easy place for different industries to come together – art and film, for example – and foster exciting ideas and emerging talents. In general, the energy, and the spirit, are very compelling.

The Beverly Hills Hotel exudes old-world glamour

Because you can spend hours in your car getting from one part of town to another, I recommend hotels based not only on style but also location preference – it is really important. For a true classic with elevated service and excellent people-watching, it has to be The Beverly Hills Hotel. It’s so iconic, so full of old-world glamour, from the pink stucco and Martinique banana-leaf wall covering to the fabulous pool and private bungalows. I love the classic striping of the grand entrance; you feel a true sense of arrival at this hotel, and the coming together of past and present. Those in the market for something a little more hip might prefer the Chateau Marmont, with its incredible views of the Hollywood Hills; I find my London friends like the laid-back, bohemian vibe here – it’s the quintessential LA experience, right down to the veggie burgers and huevos rancheros at brunch. Another favourite is the art deco Sunset Tower; it’s a classic, with great views of the city, and the best bar, serving the best Bellini in town. For a slightly more off-the-beaten-track stay, I like Hotel Covell, near Silver Lake, which opened just over two years ago and draws a younger crowd. It has a lived-in, residential feel with super-thoughtful interiors, from the hardwood floors to the salons with a mix of vintage and new pieces. It’s a place with soul.

For the full LA experience, you might want to start in Malibu, where the beautiful El Matador and Zuma Beaches, and the Malibu Country Mart, are excellent places to spend a day. The Sunday Farmers’ Market is worth a special detour; not only is the produce amazing, it’s a total celebrity bottleneck, which just adds to the fun. One of the best spots for lunch up here is Tra Di Noi, where you can sit on the patio and eat super-healthy versions of Italian classics like the excellent zucchini spaghetti with arrabbiata sauce. Another good lunchtime choice is Malibu Farm at Malibu Pier, where you can watch the sunset over a vegan kale salad or a cauliflower crust pizza. If you decide to make a night of it in Malibu, the new Nobu Ryokan, with its teak wood styling and beautiful, simple design that envelops the natural environment, is transporting – instant peace.

The Malibu Farm restaurant is popular for sunset-watching

Heading south along the Pacific Coast Highway you’ll hit Santa Monica, and my favourite neighbourhood: Venice. This is the best place to see the real LA, and the way to do it is on rollerblades, skating past the Santa Monica Pier and Muscle Beach before heading on to Abbot Kinney for all the shops, cafés and great restaurants. The Butcher’s Daughter, where they serve really healthy smoothies, is a can’t-miss. I try to eat as many raw foods as possible, and this place makes it easy. So does Erewhon – a health store with an unbelievable juice bar. My favourite is the peanut butter and banana concoction with added kale – it is much more delicious than it sounds. Venice has a few great shopping finds too. Heist is a favourite for both established and emerging local designers. 

Stylish smaller shops such as The Row can be found in West Hollywood

Working out is a big part of LA life. Walking, biking and just being in nature are all priorities. If you want to go for a great hike, the Inspiration Point trail is a beautiful escape in the Santa Monica Mountains, with views all the way to Catalina island. One of the best ways to get to grips with Beverly Hills is to go for a run here, because the landscaping is so incredible and you miss a lot of it from a car. I recommend heading down Palm Drive and then up to the hills, past Canon, Beverly and Rodeo Drives. This is also an excellent way to scope out the shops before later in the day, when you can lunch at the old-school Fountain Coffee Room at The Beverly Hills Hotel. For excellent Italian food, I send people to Pizzeria il Fico, which has a cool, casual feel and perfect thin-crust pizzas.

Downtown LA’s Bestia serves excellent Italian food

It’s also worth exploring West Hollywood, particularly the Melrose area, where you’ll find great smaller shops: there’s The Row, Chloé and Isabel Marant, but also Brazilian designer Martha Medeiros, who specialises in lace dresses. The eating options here are great too. Ink’s Sack is the place for in-and-out creative sandwiches, and my go-to spot is Urth Caffé for either breakfast or lunch. It’s easygoing, with outside seating, and as the name suggests, everything – from the organic oatmeal to the grilled veggie with pesto sandwiches – is made with the freshest ingredients.

For uniquely LA shopping, there’s an outpost of The Future Perfect, which is actually a store within a midcentury house, near the Hollywood Hills; you’ll find all kinds of interesting furniture, design and decorative objects, complete with a backyard pool. And there is American Rag Cie: it has the best denim collection anywhere, as well as an extensive home store next door with beautiful tabletop items. Scout in West Hollywood is excellent for vintage clothing; I bought an incredible 1980s Valentino blouse with really big shoulder pads here.

One of LA’s smallest and most underrated neighbourhoods is Larchmont, situated at the meeting points of Hollywood, Koreatown and Hancock Park – the latter is considered the “first” Beverly Hills, because of the classic homes built in the 1920s and ’30s. Larchmont is a charming, family-friendly area and the restaurant row is great, especially Le Petit Greek Estiatorio – it’s authentic and delicious. For a more traditional meal, I love La Republique, a modern French bistro set in a historical space built by Charlie Chaplin in 1928. And I always send people to Sqirl, on the edge of Silver Lake, a casual brunch spot with lots of filling salads and vegetarian options.

The art scene has changed so much over the past few years, and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art has led the charge. And its scene keeps growing. The Broad museum, designed by Diller Scofidio + Renfro, is architecturally beautiful, as is the collection of contemporary art, while LA’s outpost of Hauser & Wirth has incredibly diverse programmes that support young artists. Honor Fraser is another excellent gallery; her “voice”, so to speak, and her style are singular. If you plan it right, you can see art in Downtown LA followed by dinner at Bestia – the most amazing Italian food in town, in an industrial-yet-chic setting. 

What’s unique about LA is the number and variety of experiences you can have in one day – from surfing to visiting world-class museums, to shopping and enjoying a healthy outdoor lifestyle. It’s such an authentic place, and I hope it stays true to itself.”

The World of Wellness at Switzerland's Bürgenstock Hotels & Resort

After a $550 million renovation, the classic Bürgenstock is now a world of wellness and pampering unto itself.

Courtesy Burgenstock Hotel

I was won over on the approach. As I took the boat ride across Lake Lucerne, I could see mountains for miles. I next hopped on a vintage funicular that climbed into the sky, bringing me to one of Switzerland’s most ambitious projects.

I had long heard about Bürgenstock, a mini-village that dates back to the 1870s, a place where Swiss society and boldface names like Audrey Hepburn would vacation in the 1950s. But I had to see it to grasp its sheer size and scope. The sprawling 148-acre property is made up of 30 disparate buildings. Some, including the chapel, are historic structures with that quintessential Alpine charm, while other, newer builds are more contemporary in style. The 102-room Bürgenstock Hotel is one of the newcomers, a modern building with plenty of muted limestone, oak, walnut, and quartz finishes, as well as magnificent floor-to-ceiling views of the water. My standard room featured an enormous sitting area with a brass fireplace, two bathrooms clad in Arana marble, and a sumptuous, lake-facing soaking tub.

This is just one of four hotels on the property. The Palace Hotel, built in 1903 and now impeccably restored, has a world-class art collection. The 12-room Taverne 1879 is an authentic Swiss guesthouse complete with antler-bedecked walls. And the recently opened Waldhotel rivals Lanserhof as one of Europe’s top medical spas, offering everything from nutritional counseling to cryotherapy. There’s also a 45,200-square-foot spa facility with a Finnish sauna and an ice room.

The resort has 12 restaurants, lounges, and bars, and over my four-night stay, I managed to try sashimi and dim sum at the excellent Spices Kitchen & Terrace, mezes at the light-filled Sharq Oriental, and an excellent foie gras terrine at RitzCoffier, the Bürgenstock’s nod to French fine dining.

But ultimately, it’s the great outdoors that beckon here, and the activities are limitless: gentle hikes along the cliff walk up to the Hammetschwand lift (reportedly Europe’s highest outdoor elevator), golf on the nine-hole course, and sailing in summer. Still, I found nothing was more beautiful or restorative than the lush Swiss countryside. Rooms from $650; buergenstock.ch.

Things Fathom Editors Want Right Now - Vol. 16

Tea.O.Graphy Tea

Assam from the northern hills of India, pink rosebuds and chamomile from a Provençal garden, a spicy tea blend inspired by Christmas in New Mexico — these are the cuppas that can transport you to another place any time you step into your kitchen. ($3 for a 3-cup sample; $11 and up for a 2 ounce package) - Jeralyn, editorial director 

Photo courtesy of Phaidon.

The Japanese Garden

Winter in New York City has me longing for greener days, which is why I have my eye on this gorgeous coffee table book. Through a series of essays and photographs, readers explore the art of the Japanese garden. ($43) – Berit, senior editor

Photo courtesy of Slughaus.

Slughaus Self-Healing Wolverine Pack

I have my eyes on this lightweight daypack for when the weather warms up and hiking through the woods without seven layers of clothing becomes an option. It’s packable down to the size of a smartphone, is weather resistant, and — get ready for this — made of regenerative fabric! Heat and friction from your fingertips is all that’s needed to heal small punctures made by branches, bramble, and any other sharp objects one might find on a nature walk. ($89) – Daniel, editor

Photo courtesy of Flight 001.

Flight 001 5-In-1 Adapter

The colorful multi-country travel adapter has been my go-to for staying powered on the road. Before I head to Singapore and Vietnam at the end of the month, I’m going to upgrade to the latest version, which features two built-in USB ports. – Berit, senior editor

Bringing It Home and Dinner in an Instant

It's February and I'm freezing, so I'm staying in, nesting and trying recipes from the latest cookbooks from my friends, both Fathom contributors. Top Chef judge Gail Simmons' Bringing It Home: Favorite Recipes from a Life of Adventurous Eating has me craving Vietnamese Omelets and Charred Grapefruit Mezcalita ($16.98). New York Times food columnist Melissa Clark, who writes a new book in the time it takes me to read 300 emails, inspired me to buy a pricey new gadget with Dinner in an Instant: 75 Modern Recipes for your Pressure Cooker, Multicooker + Instant Pot so I can make Green Persian Rice with Tahdig and Japanese Beef Curry ($13.96). Both authors — hooray! — were just nominated by International Association of Culinary Professionals as finalists for the best cookbook of the 2018. — Pavia, CEO

Flight Spray

Call me crazy, but I swear that the key to health is having moisturized airways. This holds particularly true for airplanes where the humidity levels are significantly lower than the Sahara Desert (fact). In an effort to stave off colds and this year's dreaded flu, I went online and read that this was THE nasal mist to keep flyers breathing right. It has a sort of herbal essence, and since I started using it I'm much more comfortable, especially on long haul flights. — Christina Ohly, Contributing Editor

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A long weekend in Lisbon with Alexandra Champalimaud

The Portuguese-born interior designer divulges the best of her hometown’s timeless charms, architecture and delectable food to Christina Ohly Evans. Portrait by Pedro Guimaraes

I was born in Lisbon and lived in this magnificent city until my mid-20s, so to me it will always be home. It sits at the edge of the wild Atlantic Ocean, on the scenic Tagus River, and is built across seven hills, so it’s like no other city in the world – because of the extraordinary light, the diverse architectural styles and, most importantly, the people. The Portuguese are truly warm, welcoming and nurturing – playing host is second nature to them. 

Much of Lisbon was built between the 16th and 18th centuries. Portugal was one of the great trading nations and had some of the most prolific navigators, including Vasco da Gama; it imported silks from Asia and India, and exotic wood from Brazil, and also craftsmanship that can be seen in the romantic detailing that graces the romanesque, baroque and manueline [late gothic] churches that are found everywhere.

A Cevicheria in Baixa – a great place for fish | Image: Francisco Rivotti

The city is like a conglomeration of small villages – each one rooted by a church – that contain real architectural charms hidden behind doors, often exquisitely carved. You’ll find buildings with glorious scaled windows reminiscent of the English Georgian period. The cobblestone streets are like labyrinths, and the brightly coloured façades and abundant sunshine add to the historic atmosphere. 

Visitors are spoilt for choice with hotels – they run the gamut from large and lavish to much more intimate. One of my favourites is the Bairro Alto Hotel between atmospheric Bairro Alto and Chiado. It’s full of charm, with incredible views of the Tagus; it’s basically the embodiment of the Portuguese lifestyle. I highly recommend sitting at its Terraço BA bar at sunset – glass of port in hand, of course – before moving on to the excellent Flores do Bairro restaurant downstairs for its roasted octopus and tomato rice. Another favourite is the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz, which is absolutely glorious – I often find inspiration for my own work in this hotel. It was built in the late 1950s and is incredibly elegant; it overlooks Eduardo VII park with its very stylised terraces, and is close to all the chic shopping on Avenida da Liberdade. For a quieter setting, I’d suggest the Olissippo Lapa Palace hotel. It’s in a very tranquil residential area, has a lovely pool, ocean views and a casual restaurant called Le Pavillon that’s perfect for a light alfresco lunch.

The Baixa-Chiado district – the city centre – is great for its mix of small shops; there are lots of silversmiths and assorted artisans. Leitão & Irmão on Largo do Chiado is a traditional gold- and silversmith that specialises in jewellery and decorative objects. Vista Alegre is a must for old Portuguese porcelain, especially the gorgeous blue variety, but also for the green cabbage-motif plates that are so popular – they originated in Portugal. This area is also home to numerous antiques shops, where you’ll find maritime artefacts from the East India Company’s explorations of China. And one of my favourite sources of fine linens is here: Paris em Lisboa, a charming shop in the Chiado that specialises in white-on-white embroidered sheets and linen hand towels. 

This neighbourhood is also a great spot for lunch, and Belcanto, with its chic setting, is probably its best place. The chef, José Avillez, has two Michelin stars, and his delicious food has Portuguese flavours but reflects a global approach to cooking. For a traditional bica – espresso – I always recommend the art deco-style Café a Brasileira. It exudes old-world elegance and there are works by important Portuguese painters such as José de Almada Negreiros. To just sit here on a long bench with pleasant strangers and savour a pastéis de nata– a traditional egg-custard tart – is a very Lisboan thing to do. As you explore, you’ll notice that the pavements are dotted with beautiful black and white cobblestones. I always tell friends to wear comfortable flats, because while Portuguese women have mastered the art of wearing heels on these uneven stones, most tourists have not.

Café and pastry shop Pastéis de Belém, a great spot for local colour | Image: TPHOTOS

Another must is a walk – or tram ride – up to Alfama, which is the city’s oldest quarter. You’ll be met with gorgeous views of rolling greenery, the Tagus and all the towering churches below. At the very top sits the Portas do Sol [Doors to the Sun] garden and the majestic citadel Castelo de São Jorge. This area is home to some of the most incredible Portuguese crafts; you can view them at the Decorative Arts Museum and its adjacent workshop. It’s amazing to watch the centuries-old gilding, leather binding, inlaying and woodworking still going on; such is the level of skill here that the Louvre entrusts the restoration of its books to these artisans. You can have a perfect lunch on the terrace at Chapitô à Mesa – an incredibly charming place with several different rooms and wide city views – before exploring the area’s churches. The 12th-century Sé Cathedral and the Magdalena Church are two of my favourites – so intimate and full of beautiful tile work.

Fado is Lisbon’s traditional folk music, incorporating mandolins and guitars, and you’ll probably hear it wafting through the streets in Bairro Alto and Alfama. You can just step into any casual tavern for a simple meal and listen to this wonderful singing; it sounds a bit like country music – the lyrics are usually about love and loss – and is always telling a big story.

The reception at Bairro Alto Hotel is overlooked by a mezzanine bar

It’s worth a quick trip just outside town to see the 15th-century Jerónimos Monastery, a glorious white marble cathedral built in the manueline style, with its intricate gothic detailing and classic gardens. You can also wander across the nearby bridge to explore the yachting centre; the seaside atmosphere is perfectly Portuguese, as is a lunch of battered fish or octopus and potato salad at Alcântara. My other choice, always, for seafood is the bustling Doc Cod, located at Santo Amaro docks, overlooking the river and the iconic 25 de Abril Bridge.

Once you’ve fuelled up, why not go to see the nearby Torre de Belém, which is an ode to the Age of Discovery. The modern concert hall is a beautiful, Carlo Scarpa-type structure with incredible acoustics. Afterwards, a great spot for local colour is café and pastry shop Pastéis de Belém; its signature Bolo Rei fruitcake is legendary.

The view of the ocean from the Torre de Belém | Image: Gabriele Croppi/ SIME/ 4Corners Images

If you only do one museum, it should be the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga, also called the Museu das Janelas Verdes for its location on the “Street of Green Windows”. It’s in the Palácio de Alvor, a former palace of the Count of Alvor, and exhibits incredible jewellery and precious stones from the 18th century, as well as inlaid furniture and decorative arts that date from the Middle Ages through to the 19th century. The Calouste Gulbenkian Museum is much smaller – a real gem – and contains one of the world’s greatest collections of Lalique jewellery. 

But any visit to Lisbon should focus on food and drink. Anything involving cod, particularly bacalhau that’s been salted and dried, often takes centre stage on a menu. One of the best restaurants for authentic Portuguese food, and generally a festive night out, is A Travessa in the Bairro da Madragoa area. It’s housed in a 17th-century convent and the atmosphere is magical. Gambrinus in Baixa is the place to go for fresh fish – try the olive oil‑marinated mackerel or the amazing shellfish soup. The unassuming A Cevicheria is another great spot to enjoy fish, such as grouper or corvina [croaker] ceviche marinated in lime juice, along with a delicious Pisco Sour.  

Unlike other European cities, Lisbon remains remarkably unchanged through history. Its slower pace of life is centred around family and friends. From the beautiful architecture to the artisanal shops and gourmet delights, I can’t think of any other capital city that still truly charms the way it does – and that feels so personal. When you come here, stress will feel a million miles away.