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CW Pencil Enterprise

Scented Viarcos, rare wood silver tips and an early Eberhard Faber draw creatives to this New York paean to the pencil

Scented Viarcos, rare wood silver tips and an early Eberhard Faber draw creatives to this New York paean to the pencil

“It started with my first Caran d’Ache set when I was about six,” says the “amateur pencil collector” Caroline Weaver (first picture), who has turned her obsession into a niche New York store.

A fine art graduate of London’s Central Saint Martins and Goldsmiths colleges, Ohio-native Weaver discovered a whole new world of pencils while travelling in Europe. “I wanted to create a place where people could try pencils produced in old family-run factories,” she says, “and learn the difference between a Japanese brass bullet pencil and a Czech Triograph.”

Image: Dorothy Hong

Image: Dorothy Hong


CW Pencil Enterprise began life online in November 2014, before opening in the bustling Lower East Side shortly after. The small space stocks over 250 pencil varieties, all neatly displayed in glass jars and labelled by country of origin. From Japan, for example, there is the thick, triangular Kita-boshi ($1) and the dark-graphite Mitsu-bishi Hi-Uni ($2.50), “the holy grail of Japanese pencils that writes like a dream”.

“My goal was to create a meticulously organised space that didn’t feel too precious,” she says. “I want people to feel free to scribble and experiment.” As a result, the midcentury-inspired store – with its black-and-white chequerboard floor and vintage advertising posters – features a writing desk for sampling the everyday HB models or vintage finds, such as “the earliest version of the legendary Eberhard Faber Mongol [$30] we’ve ever found”. Each item is enriched by Weaver’s palpable passion; she delights in expounding on a pencil’s provenance and graphite qualities, as well as its optimal use – from sketching to novel writing to crossword puzzling.

Among the store’s more unusual offerings are the Portuguese Viarco pencils ($10) scented with indigenous floral notes – lily-of-the-valley, jasmine, peony and fig leaf. Rare wood Caran d’Ache pencils with silver tips in an exquisite walnut box ($275) are displayed next to volumes ($60) of Tombow coloured pencils, which are organised by rainforest, woodland and seascape hues. Design-led accoutrements are artfully arranged on stark white tables. “All of the accessories here are better versions of everyday things,” explains Weaver of an inventory that includes stunning-yet-spare Japanese legal pads ($12) by Craft Design Technology and brass pencil cases ($67) by Midori. In fact, Weaver is almost as serious about sharpeners – “never electric; I prefer small, sculptural ones” – as she is about pencils. A weighty gold-plated and chrome sharpener ($500, second picture) by Spanish maker El Casco uses “intricate internal mechanisms, not unlike a fine watch”.

So who pops in for a pencil or two? “Local architects, writers and calligraphers,” says Weaver, but the shop is also attracting a broader global clientele. “In general, analogue tools are making a comeback. Our customers are returning to the simplicity of the pencil because it is both practical and sentimental.” And occasionally personal: a Kingsley hot foil stamp machine from the 1960s is used to personalise products, including the recent commission of a marriage proposal written in gold lettering on a bright red pencil. At CW Pencil Enterprise, the pencil itself is an art form.

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David Rockwell talks personal taste: Part One

The architect and designer counts Nobu restaurants, Edition hotels and London’s iconic Battersea Power Station among his clients. He is also a Tony Award-nominated set designer

My personal style signifiers are casual James Perse T-shirts in charcoal, black and light grey, Levi’s and suede New Balance trainers. For smarter occasions, I’ll wear slim-cut, dark-blue Prada shirts and a grey Prada sports coat that works well for meetings with clients. www.jamesperse.comwww.levi.co.ukwww.newbalance.co.ukwww.prada.com.

The last thing I bought and loved was a black nylon field jacket by Burberry. I was recently in Paris for a design show and needed a warm, waterproof layer. It is tailored and practical and I love the way this traditional brand is forever finding ways to stay relevant. £795; www.burberry.com.

A Steinway & Sons grand piano | Image: Jo van den Berg

A Steinway & Sons grand piano | Image: Jo van den Berg

And the thing I’m eyeing next is a Steinway Hamburg grand piano. Every home I have ever lived in has had a piano, including my current flat in Tribeca, where we have an upright Steinway. I love to play and think having music in the house is important for my children. Steinway has an app that lets you visualise a particular piano in your home and the Hamburg Grand would look terrific in our space, though it will require some negotiating with my family. From £31,000; eu.steinway.com. Steinway Augmented Reality ViewAR app; www.itunes.com

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is the Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris. The sculptural Frank Gehry-designed building is extraordinary – the way it sits on the water, its wonderful mix of glass and steel and beautiful gardens. The Olafur Eliasson exhibition I saw there was reflected in the surrounding pools and made a huge impression. www.fondationlouisvuitton.fr.

A recent “find” is Second Hand Rose, a store in the Flatiron District of Manhattan that specialises in vintage wallpaper. It has  an incredible selection, from florals to geometric patterns and damasks, but it was the papers from the 1930s that really caught my eye. 230 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10010 (+1212-393 9002; www.secondhandrose.com).

The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Joseph Cornell. I have always been fascinated by his art and find his mini worlds inspirational. I love the density of his pieces, their backstory, and how, when you zoom in, the complexity and architectural qualities just get richer and richer. I’d love to own the Medici Slot Machine and Magic Soap Bubble Set but could happily live with anything by him.

David Rockwell’s Burberry field jacket, £795 | Image: Circe Hamilton

David Rockwell’s Burberry field jacket, £795 | Image: Circe Hamilton


The people I rely on for wellness are Peter Anthony, who has been my personal trainer for almost 20 years, and the massage therapists at Mohonk Mountain House near my weekend home in New Paltz. Peter is a trainer-turned-gallerist and we meet five days a week to do cardio, lift weights and talk about art. Mohonk’s massages include Swedish techniques, Thai stretches, even power naps; my week’s stress disappears after a 90-minute session. Mohonk Mountain House, 1000 Mountain Rest Road, New Paltz, NY 12561 (+1855-883 3798; www.mohonk.com). Peter Anthony Fitness, 89 Franklin Street, New York, NY 10013 (+1212-274 9003; www.peteranthonyfitness.com).   

The best gift I’ve given recently was a midcentury bronze candelabra that I bought for a friend who works in lighting design. It’s a slightly brutalist, sculptural piece that holds the candles at varying heights so each casts a beautiful glow. Weinberg Modern, New York Design Center, 200 Lexington Avenue, Suite 407, New York, NY 10016 (+1646-291 2059; www.weinbergmodern.com).

David Rockwell’s photograph of his mother as a vaudeville dancer | Image: Circe Hamilton

David Rockwell’s photograph of his mother as a vaudeville dancer | Image: Circe Hamilton

And the best ones I’ve received were a fabulous ikat bolster pillow from Suzanne and Christopher Sharp of The Rug Company, who I worked with recently, and a kaleidoscope that contains beautiful little prisms suspended in oil. It’s like a Busby Berkeley movie in a tube.

An object I would never part with is a photograph of my mother as a vaudeville dancer. She died when I was 15, but her love of the theatre has always inspired me.

My favourite websites include Food52 for recipes and chic tableware, and The Architect’s Newspaper to keep an eye on new buildings. www.archpaper.comwww.food52.com.





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David Rockwell talks personal taste: Part Two

The architect and designer concludes his compendium of likes with steak tartare at Chiltern Firehouse and kicking for the Chicago Bears

The architect and designer concludes his compendium of likes with steak tartare at Chiltern Firehouse and kicking for the Chicago Bears

My style icons are the artist Ruben Toledo and his fashion designer wife Isabel. These longtime friends always look fabulous: his aesthetic is sleek and streamlined, especially in contrast to hers, which is baroque and more flamboyant. They are also masters of spontaneity and forever generous with their time and ideas.

The last item of clothing I added to my wardrobe was a beautiful Prada tuxedo I bought to wear to the Tony Awards, when I was nominated for my Kinky Boots and Lucky Guy set designs. It is slim-cut and exquisitely crafted, with beautiful stitching along the lapels – I will wear it forever. www.prada.com.  

Giant Cubebot at the David Weeks Studio | Image: Floto+Warner

Giant Cubebot at the David Weeks Studio | Image: Floto+Warner


The site that inspires me is Dia:Beacon, the Dia Art Foundation’s gallery in Upstate New York, where the sprawling former factory itself is as important as the art it houses. The indoor and outdoor spaces flow seamlessly and inspired me when I was designing the Center for Civil and Human Rights in Atlanta, while the daylight galleries and their 34,000sq ft of skylights are particularly impressive. It is a wonderful place to see work by artists such as Richard Serra, Dan Flavin and Louise Bourgeois. 3 Beekman Street, Beacon, New York, NY 12508 (+1845-440 0100; www.diaart.org).

The last meal that truly impressed me was at Chiltern Firehouse, where I enjoyed a festive lunch with a great group of friends. The restaurant is a perfectly cast piece of theatre: the quality of light is beautiful and the space feels warm and lively. The steak tartare – my absolute favourite dish – was especially memorable. 1 Chiltern Street, London W1 (020-7073 7676; www.chilternfirehouse.com).

The last music I downloaded was Beethoven: The Complete Symphony Collection, performed by the London Symphony Orchestra. I heard the LSO live when I was a student in London and have always wanted this comprehensive recording, conducted by Josef Krips, for my library. I also bought the album of the 1978 musical The Wiz, featuring the original cast, which is perfect for my morning workouts.

If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose Tribeca in New York. Favourites include Urban Archaeology and Wyeth, which sell wonderful decorative objects, and David Weeks Studio is a must for original furniture and lighting. I also love good coffee and The Smile and Fika are two of the best places for a caffeine hit before shopping. David Weeks Studio, 38 Walker Street (+1212-966 3433; www.davidweeksstudio.com). Fika, 450 Washington Street (+1212-706-0565; www.fikanyc.com). The Smile, 177 Franklin Street (+1917-728 3023; www.thesmilenyc.com). Urban Archaeology, 143 Franklin Street (+1212-431 4646; www.urbanarchaeology.com). Wyeth, 315 Spring Street (+1212-243 3661; www.wyethhome.com).


Tennessee Williams: Mad Pilgrimmage of the Flesh by John Lahr

Tennessee Williams: Mad Pilgrimmage of the Flesh by John Lahr


The best souvenir I’ve brought home is a catalogue from the Barbican exhibition Constructing Worlds: Photography and Architecture in the Modern Age. Images by Berenice Abbott, Walker Evans and Andreas Gursky grace the pages, and I ended up buying multiple copies for friends and family. The Barbican’s gift shop is a wonderful hidden gem. £39;www.barbican.org.uk.

The books on my bedside table are very varied. I am currently reading Tennessee Williams: Mad Pilgrimmage of the Flesh by John Lahr, and Walker Evans: Decade by Decade, a beautiful book of photographs by this chronicler of American history. Pop Up City, a book about mobile designs, a current obsession, and Pierre Christin and Olivier Balez’s graphic biography Robert Moses: The Master Builder of New York City are next on my list.


A display at the David Weeks Studio | Image: Floto+Warner

A display at the David Weeks Studio | Image: Floto+Warner


My favourite room in my house is actually my rooftop garden. It’s surrounded by the landscape of Tribeca and the ever-changing skyline, yet it’s quiet and overlooks the Hudson River; it’s the perfect place to be at the end of the day.

If I didn’t live in New York, the city I would live in is Barcelona. I grew up in Mexico so I’m fluent in Spanish, and I love its café culture and the fact that it’s a city that never sleeps. There’s the Palau de la Música Catalana, a place of great beauty, wonderful for listening to music; Gaudí’s Park Güell; the Boqueria food market, a favourite for the sizzling shrimp and seafood paella; and the light and airy Hotel Arts, with Frank Gehry’s enormous fish outside. Most of all, though, I like the people, who are proud but not arrogant. La Boqueria, La Rambla 91 (+3493-318 2584; www.boqueria.info). Hotel Arts, Calle Marina 19-21 (+3493-221 1000; www.hotelartsbarcelona.com). Palau de la Música Catalana, Calle Palau de la Música 4-6 (+3493-295 7200; www.palaumusica.org). Park Güell, Carrer d’Olot (+3490-220 0302; www.parkguell.cat).


Palau de la Música Catalana | Image: Matteo Vecchi/Teolds Photography

Palau de la Música Catalana | Image: Matteo Vecchi/Teolds Photography


In my fridge you’ll always find lots of fresh pineapple, red grapes, watermelon, mangoes and berries from the Union Square Greenmarket outside my offices. Then there’s sliced turkey; DiPaola’s turkey sausage for making stir-fries; pitchers of freshly brewed Tazo green iced tea; Edy’s fruit popsicles in grapefruit, tangerine and lemon; and the ingredients for making chocolate-chip cookies. Union Square Greenmarket, East 17th Street, New York, NY 10003 (+1212-788 7476). www.dipaolaturkeyfarm.comwww.edys.comwww.tazo.com.

The grooming staples I’m never without are Triple Oxygen + C Energizing Cream by Bliss – at whose spa I have a facial once a year – and Juniper Ridge Big Sur Trail Crew Soap for the bath. Big Sur Trail Soap, $30; www.juniperridge.com.Triple Oxygen + C Energizing Cream, $55; www.blissworld.com.

An indulgence I would never forgo is chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s rock-shrimp tempura. I was introduced to the dish at the Feast of the Many Moons almost 30 years ago and it has been a favourite ever since. It comes with two dipping sauces – one creamy but spicy and the other a light ponzu; I always opt for the latter. www.noburestaurants.com.

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be a concert pianist. I have played my entire life and love the idea of having incredible skill. And if I weren’t doing that, I’d be a kicker for the Chicago Bears.

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Shigeru Ban talks personal taste: Part One

Pritzker Prize-winning architect Shigeru Ban designs private homes, disaster-relief housing made from recycled materials, and museums, including Centre Pompidou-Metz and Aspen Art Museum

Pritzker Prize-winning architect Shigeru Ban designs private homes, disaster-relief housing made from recycled materials, and museums, including Centre Pompidou-Metz and Aspen Art Museum

My personal style signifier is always wearing black. My mother, a couturier, designs and makes my jeans at her atelier, which is in the same building as my Tokyo offices. She also makes jackets in a variety of fabrics – linen, cotton, wool – so I can wear them throughout the seasons and across the globe.

The best gift I’ve given recently was a set of sculptural white-wine glasses designed by Josef Hoffmann. The “muslin” crystal is super-thin. I gave them to someone in my office who is a wine lover like me. $500 for four; www.mosspop.com.


Camper leather boots, £130 | Image: www.camper.com

Camper leather boots, £130 | Image: www.camper.com


And the best one I’ve received was a silkscreen print by Japanese architect Arata Isozaki. It is very special, not only because I’ve worked with Isozaki, but also because it was given to me by a client who became a dear friend.

The objects I would never part with are my special Utrecht black sketchbooks that I have been using since I was a student at The Cooper Union in New York in the 1980s. I draw in them wherever I go, preferably with a fine-point Muji Aluminum Hexagonal pen in black or red ink. I keep these pens clipped to my shirt pocket so that I’m ready to sketch any time, anywhere. Muji Aluminum Hexagonal pen, £3.95; www.muji.com. Utrecht sketchbook, from £3.91; www.utrechtart.com.

An indulgence I would never forgo is Henri Giraud Code Noir champagne. It’s not very well known because until the 1990s it was only sold privately to customers in France and Italy. It is fermented in oak casks and has a delicious, complex flavour. From £70; www.champagne-giraud.com.

The last thing I added to my wardrobe was a pair of chocolate-brown short leather boots by Camper. They are very simple and I love them because I like to travel light and can wear them every day. £130; www.camper.com.


Henri Giraud Code Noir champagne, from £70 | Image: Code Noir

Henri Giraud Code Noir champagne, from £70 | Image: Code Noir


An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Daanbantayan on Cebu island in the Philippines. This area was ravaged by a typhoon two years ago, but the natural beauty I saw everywhere was incredible. The ocean was a particular blue I haven’t seen elsewhere and I found the local fishermen’s houses made of bamboo and nipa-palm leaves especially charming. The strength of the people was inspirational.

A recent “find” is Sushi Ginza Onodera, a very pure sushi restaurant in Paris. This place isn’t about fusion cooking, nor is it influenced by French cuisine. I love the omakase menus, the beautiful plates of fresh nigiri, the very warm ambience and authentic decor. 18 Rue du Louvre, 75001 Paris (+331-4020 0930; www.sushi-onodera.com).

Silkscreen print of Fukuoka City Bank head office by Arata Isozaki | Image: Arata Isozaki & Associates

Silkscreen print of Fukuoka City Bank head office by Arata Isozaki | Image: Arata Isozaki & Associates


My favourite space in my house is the central courtyard in my Tokyo home, where trees grow up through the building to the sky. It is in a forest and I didn’t want to take down any trees to build this light-filled house.

The last music I downloaded was Paganini: 24 Caprices for Solo Violin by the  Japanese-American violinist Midori. In addition to being a wonderful musician she is also a United Nations Messenger of Peace, which I admire. I also bought Mendelssohn & Tchaikovsky: Violin Concertos by Akiko Suwanai, and Berliner Philharmoniker: 125 Years by conductor Seiji Ozawa, who is a huge talent and also a friend.


Umeboshi, or pickled plums | Image: Getty Images/amana images RF

Umeboshi, or pickled plums | Image: Getty Images/amana images RF


In my fridges you’ll always find sake in Tokyo and wine in Paris. And traditional Japanese umeboshi – or pickled plums. My mother used to make me eat them when I was a child and I hated the salty, sour taste, but recently I got very bad food poisoning in Rwanda and these plums literally saved my life. I now eat them every morning.

My favourite websites are the Oita Prefectural Art Museum and the Aspen Art Museum, for video tours and information about their exceptional exhibitions. Also the Centre Pompidou-Metz site, which is an excellent contemporary art resource. www.aspenartmuseum.orgwww.centrepompidou-metz.frwww.opam.jp.

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Shigeru Ban talks personal taste: Part Two

The Pritzker Prize-winning architect rounds up his list of likes with Issey Miyake, J Sheekey and Cloudy Bay

The Pritzker Prize-winning architect rounds up his list of likes with Issey Miyake, J Sheekey and Cloudy Bay

Shigeru Ban | Image: Lea Crespi

Shigeru Ban | Image: Lea Crespi

My style icon is Issey Miyake. I admire his distinctive but minimalist aesthetic and the way he never follows the crowd. I’m particularly impressed by the new fabrics he invents; he’s a true innovator.


The last thing I bought and loved was a Tumi suitcase for my travels. I buy practical pieces based purely on their performance. This Alpha 2 rolling suitcase is ultra-lightweight and allows me to get through airports quickly. From £387; www.tumi.com.

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And the thing I’m eyeing next is a book called Who Built That? Modern Houses by Didier Cornille, which highlights some of the most important architects and houses of the 20th and 21st centuries. I teach at Kyoto University of Art and Design, and the book’s colourful drawings illustrating the construction of each building will be illuminating for my students. $16.95; www.papress.com.

The last meal that truly impressed me was at J Sheekey in London. They really know how to take advantage of natural materials – excellent cod, Atlantic prawns – and don’t smother them in rich sauces. Everything about my dinner there was wonderful: the wine list, the vibrant ambience, the knowledgeable and attentive staff and, above all, the perfectly grilled salmon. 28-32 St Martin’s Court, London WC2 (020-7240 2565; www.j-sheekey.co.uk).



The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Korean painter and sculptor Lee Ufan, whom I met recently in Paris. He’s part of a group of artists I admire called Mono-ha [School of Things], and his sculptural works made from everyday, recycled materials like paper, stone, rope and steel are simply beautiful.

The best souvenir I’ve brought home was a case of wine from Christchurch, New Zealand. I love wine – white, red, champagne – but the Cloudy Bay Chardonnay from my time spent there building the Cardboard Cathedral has become a particular favourite. www.cloudybay.co.nz.



Image: Mark C O’Flaherty

Image: Mark C O’Flaherty

The books on my bedside table include novels by Go Osaka, a writer who specialises in crime and spy fiction; a handful of works published by The Cooper Union that focus on architecture and global urban planning; and some of John Hejduk’s writings and drawings, which are particular favourites.

The site that inspires me is the port village of Onagawa in Miyagi Prefecture, Japan. The colours of the Pacific and the steep, verdant hills leading down to the town are beautiful.

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If I didn’t live in Tokyo, the city I would live in is Paris. The area around the Marais, where I have an apartment, is full of wonderful places, including the Centre Pompidou and the shops of Les Halles. Taschen is a favourite store for books about architecture and design, and after shopping and a visit to the museum, I like to have lunch at the Pompidou’s French-fusion restaurant Georges; the view overlooking the Parisian skyline is beautiful. Centre Pompidou, Place Georges-Pompidou (+331-4478 1233; www.centrepompidou.fr). Georges, Centre Pompidou, Place Georges-Pompidou  (+331-4478 4799; www.beaumarly.com). Taschen, 24 Rue de Buci (+331-4051 7922; www.taschen.com).

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be running an NGO. I already have my own – Voluntary Architects’ Network – but I would also like to work with the United Nations Refugee Agency to help those displaced by natural disaster. Or I’d be a carpenter – I love to build with my hands, which ties nicely into architecture and design.

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Laboratorio Paravicini: custom ceramics

This Milan atelier is inspired by the old, glorious ceramic and porcelain houses of Europe

This Milan atelier is inspired by the old, glorious ceramic and porcelain houses of Europe

“Our aim is to create beautiful plates and ceramic pieces that bring back the warmth often lost through the industrial production of porcelain,” says Laboratorio Paravicini co-founder Costanza Paravicini. Together with her partner Benedetta Medici, the duo produce custom pieces “inspired by the old, glorious ceramic and porcelain houses of Europe, including Capodimonte, Royal Copenhagen, Meissen and Herend”, says Medici, “as well as by the worlds of contemporary art and fashion.” Their one-of-a-kind serveware can incorporate particular patterns or colours, family crests, monograms or bucolic scenes.

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What started as a hobby for the two friends 20 years ago has become a thriving Milan-based business that now counts noted decorators, assorted royals and varied private clients among its global clientele. Many are inspired by a visit to the studio, where the duo’s existing collections often provide a starting point for a bespoke design. Signature series include Calligraphario(first picture), Snakes, Circus, Balloons(second picture) and Auto d’Epoca – the latter depicting vintage cars. Others seek out the atelier to fulfil a very specific commission.

So that colours don’t fade, the duo hand-paint or hand-apply serigraphs under glaze. This labour-intensive application process is rare today, but the pair are committed to producing pieces of the highest lustre that are also dishwasher safe and suitable for regular use. In some instances intricate decoration is realised by pressing a dry stamp onto the pieces when they are still soft, with subsequent glazing used to create unusual chiaroscuro effects. In addition to tableware, many of Laboratorio Paravicini’s celadon and gold-trimmed creations (various colour combinations and metallic finishes can be specially mixed) are designed to be displayed in wall mounts as decorative sets.


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From coats of arms on plates (from €60) to specialised chinoiserie (€80-€150 per plate) to ashtrays (from €120) featuring the family dog, no request is too outlandish – or too small. Vases embellished with villas and fantastical insects (€180-€300) are a particularly popular request, as are those featuring birds and hunting scenes. Every commission includes a final sample before the larger order goes into production.

Laboratorio Paravicini “takes delight in creating very particular, very personal things,” says Paravicini. “The moment we succeed in designing something that is exactly what our client wants, that’s the greatest achievement.”

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White Hart, Connecticut

A picturesque, historic inn is restored to its former glory in Salisbury, New England

A picturesque, historic inn is restored to its former glory in Salisbury, New England

Litchfield County, Connecticut, may not be short of picturesque, historic inns, but few are more charming than the recently reopened White Hart Inn in Salisbury. Situated on the village green in the heart of this quintessential New England town, the White Hart has served as a social and culinary hub since opening in 1806. Abruptly closed in 2010, the White Hart was recently rescued by part-time village residents Meredith and Conley Rollins, and with the help of an all-star roster of investors (that includes local writers and artists, such as Malcolm Gladwell), returned to its position as a community lynchpin.

The new incarnation is a delight on many levels, but chief among them is the food, served in both the casual Tap Room – the inn’s original tavern – and in the elegant main dining room (opening next weekend, 13 Feb). This is due in no small part to British chef Annie Wayte’s menus, some of which are inflected with UK touches (her impressive CV includes stints at Clarke’s, and she opened Nicole’s in London and Café 202 in New York and London).

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Our group of six enjoyed a wonderful, wintry lunch that began with soups of the day (lentil with bacon and a delicate potato and leek puree; $8), scotch eggs with pink chorizo and panko ($7), and a warm sweet onion and gruyére tart ($8). Main dishes may sound basic, but they are anything but: hearty and artisanal grilled cheese with housemade potato crisps ($8); baked eggs with prosciutto and cheddar ($10), and a traditional ploughman’s lunch ($14). The White Hart’s version of the patty-melt burger – accompanied by thick cheddar and crispy dill pickles - might just be the most sublime version I’ve ever tasted.

On the day of our visit, the dining room was also testing new dishes and we were treated to a preview of tasting plates of crab, avocado and oro blanco salad with freshly baked chilli flatbread ($15), a hearty vegetable curry with apple raita and basmati rice ($24), and a luscious butterscotch pot de crème.

The owner/investors aim to return this landmark to its place as a community cultural hub, and talks and events are planned for the months ahead. Also in the works is a marketplace to stock up on locally sourced jams, cheeses, and chocolate.

Sadly I wasn’t staying the night, but a peek into several of the 16 rooms (example, first picture) revealed crisp white linens, enormous soaking tubs, and CO Bigelow accoutrements; temptation enough to book a return – overnight – trip.


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Vintner’s Daughter: botanical serum from Napa Valley

An anti-ageing beauty product with vinous clout

An anti-ageing beauty product with vinous clout

When it comes to beauty products, I won’t sacrifice results for eco-friendliness, all natural ingredients or the complete absence of parabens, chemicals and fragrances. Bottom line: I seek serums, creams and cleansers that really deliver – and if they do so in a green way, well, so much the better.

And so to Vintner’s Daughter Active Botanical Serum ($185 for 30ml), a luxury phytoactive for the face that contains 22 of the world’s most powerful botanicals and essential oils, and which left my skin brighter, more evenly toned and with reduced sun spots.  

The force behind this liquid gold is April Gargiulo – a winemaker who co-owns Gargiulo Vineyards in Napa, California, and who set about creating a skincare formulation that was safe to use while she was pregnant. Drawing on her extensive knowledge of winemaking, she knew about the positive effect of grapes on the complexion. Starting with a base of grapeseed oil, Gargiulo then researched the most active herbal ingredients that would hydrate, nourish and calm even the most sensitive skin types. Hazelnut, avocado and rosehip oils strengthen elasticity and target UV damage; lavender, alfafa and nettle leaf are incorporated to infuse the skin with vitamins and combat wrinkles; while rosemary keeps acne at bay.

My current regimen includes twice-daily applications of the serum to the face and neck, followed by a light foundation. The cherry on the cake is that five per cent of each purchase goes to ending violence against women – and that’s a beautiful thing indeed.

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Where to Stay Now: Miami's Hot New Boutique Hotels

Miami is topping our hotlist of hot places to travel in 2015 in no small part because of all the great new hotels that are opening. Contributing editor Christina Ohly gives us the rundown of four of the best new ones.

Miami is topping our hotlist of hot places to travel in 2015 in no small part because of all the great new hotels that are opening. Contributing editor Christina Ohly gives us the rundown of four of the best new ones.

MIAMI – Everyone and their mother is building or has recently opened a sleek, design-led hotel in South Beach. They all pay homage to Miami's rich architectural history, but differ slightly in tone, finishes, and food options. I spent a week in Miami checking in and checking out a few new hotels.

Traymore restaurant. Photo courtesy of Metropolitan by COMO.

Traymore restaurant. Photo courtesy of Metropolitan by COMO.


Metropolitan by COMO, Miami Beach

2445 Collins Ave., South Beach; +1-305-695-3600

Specs: A boutique bolthole from hotelier Christina Ong, the latest COMO is comprised of just 74 rooms designed by noted interior designer Paola Navone. Rooms are simple, spare, and elegant, and the in-house Traymore restaurant (so named for the original Deco gem in which it is housed) serves exquisite ceviches, brick oven pizzas, and straight-from-the-sea stews.

Pluses: The intimate setting and the Zen spa make this place feel like a chic escape. There is no scene here.

Minuses: Not many.

Unique Selling Point: The relaxing Indian head massage at the sleek spa. Also, the completely peaceful pool area which features the perfect mix of sun, shade, and gourmet snacks.

This Place Is Perfect For: Anyone seeking a quiet, restorative long weekend.

But Not So Perfect For: Those in search of late-night action or anyone on a tight budget.

Rates: City rooms start at $269 per night. 

Impeccable, chic rooms at EDITION. Photo courtesy of The Miami Beach EDITION.

Impeccable, chic rooms at EDITION. Photo courtesy of The Miami Beach EDITION.


The Miami Beach EDITION

2901 Collins Ave., South Beach; +1-786-257-4500

Specs: This just-opened "next generation urban resort" from Ian Schrager and Marriott Hotels occupies a sleekly renovated 1950s landmark on Collins Avenue in the mid-beach section of South Beach. The latest of Schrager's EDITION hotels for Marriott (London and Istanbul are thriving) has 294 minimalist rooms and suites, many with breathtaking ocean vistas.

Pluses: Everything is spotlessly clean, and white linens and neutral wood finishes abound. The staff — from room service to cheerful concierges — are eager to please.

Minuses: It draws a slightly louder crowd — possibly for the disco bowling downstairs.

Unique Selling Point: There are several. Market by Jean Georges Vongerichten serves delicious food 24/7 in a vibrant, open air space. The poolside restaurant Tropicale serves perfect shrimp cocktail in an Art Deco, bouganvillea-strewn landscape. But really, this place is such a one-stop hotel shop that you could bring an entire family here and find an activity, spa treatment, luxury suite, or amenity for everyone.

This Place Is Perfect for: Art Basel attendees and start-up CEOs.

But Not So Perfect For: Anyone seeking total quiet or anyone who prefers overstuffed chairs and chintz.

Rates: Standard King rooms start at $349 per night. Click here for reservations.

Read More: An interview with Ian Schrager about the EDITION collection.

Arches around the hotel. Photo courtesy of Casa Claridge.

Arches around the hotel. Photo courtesy of Casa Claridge.


Casa Claridge

3500 Collins Ave., South Beach; +1-305-604-8485 and reception@casaclaridge.com

Specs: Originally built in the Mediterranean Revival style, the 50-room hotel recently purchased by hotelier Alan Faena feels like a relaxed guest house — as well as an arts hub — a counterpoint to the Saxony Hotel and Norman Foster-designed apartments Faena is builing across Collins Avenue. Casa Claridge rooms have touches like Frette linens and bottles of Argentinean malbec, not to mention peace and quiet in plentiful quantities.

Pluses: The atmosphere is sweet — think sophisticated house party — where people congregate in the main sitting room underneath a giant paper cut-out ceiling installation by Manuel Ameztoy.

Minuses: There's no swimming pool and the bathrooms could use a sprucing up.

Unique Selling Point: A three-way tie between the killer tuna tartare served on the patio, the rotating art exhibits, and the musical tertulias on Friday nights that feature guest curators.

This Place Is Perfect For: Those seeking a low-key vibe on a budget.

But Not So Perfect For: Anyone looking for bells, whistles, or bowling alleys (see The EDITION down the street).

Rates: Casa Queen Rooms start at $129 per night. Click here for reservations.

The garden area. Photo courtesy of Thompson Miami Beach.

The garden area. Photo courtesy of Thompson Miami Beach.


Thompson Miami Beach

4041 Collins Ave., South Beach; +1-786-605-4041

Specs: This 380-room beachfront spot captures the mid-century modern aesthetic through interior design by noted British tastemaker Martin Brudnizki. Rooms feel spacious: Many have ocean views, and more than 30 suites have expansive terraces, full kitchensm and living rooms. The furnishings are eclectic and more colorful than the stark, white environments found in neighboring hotels.

Pluses: The pool and garden areas are perfect for people watching, and the hotel's restaurant Seagrape is run by James Beard Award-winning chef and local food hero Michelle Bernstein. A Miami native, she plays to the area's seafood strengths in a relaxed, retro setting.

Minuses: The lobby feels slightly strange — lots of dark colors and no clear sitting areas.

Unique Selling Point: The tenth floor spa has lovely sea views and the Crown Room is the perfect spot for a cocktail connoisseur.

This Place Is Perfect For: The younger set and fans of a slightly funkier design aesthetic.

But Not So Perfect For: Anyone looking for a highly personal, intimate environment.

In addition to these spots and others like Hotel Croydon and Circa 39, 2015 promises to be a year of spectacular openings. The two best to watch are Faena's Deco gem The Saxony and the very green 1 Hotel in the former Gansevoort space. Happy Miami. It's going to be a hot winter.

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Antonio Citterio’s perfect weekend in Milan

The architect and industrial designer explores the city’s paintings, porticos and botanical gardens and Brera backstreets

The architect and industrial designer explores the city’s paintings, porticos and botanical gardens and Brera backstreets

“Saturday mornings start at my local newsstand, Reno Giornalaio, at the end of Via Brera. I love the ritual of walking and getting the papers – everything from Corriere della Sera to the FT and The New York Times for my wife [American architect and interior designer, Terry Dwan] – and then settling into one of the local bars, Caffè Fernanda, inside the Pinacoteca di Brera, for coffee and brioche. The sense of community in these places is wonderful, but I also like that there’s no pressure to talk to anyone.

After a long while spent reading, I might go to any number of galleries and museums. I’m an art collector, and I find inspiration at places such as Gallery Massimo di Carlo; it’s a fantastically inspiring space by Piero Portaluppi who also designed the famous Villa Necchi. I’m drawn to the Palazzo Reale, especially during Salone del Mobile, and the Brera Museum, which has one of the best collections of Italian Renaissance paintings and an exemplary Lombard baroque courtyard – its portico has an unrivalled collection of full-size casts of monumental classical sculptures, and real 19th-century marble sculptures.

I’m a member of the advisory committee of the Museo del Design Italiano on the ground floor of the Triennale. The centre has constantly changing architecture exhibitions – our practice has designed installations here – and is a source not only of inspiration but also debate. There’s also a nice design café, where I’ll sit outside and have seabass carpaccio and salad for lunch. 

The Triennale has constantly changing architecture exhibitions and a design café | Image: Stefan Giffthaler

People come to Milan for the creative energy, the food and the fashion – and there is no better time to watch this all unfold than at the weekends. I’m not a trendy guy, but I am also not above taking a touristy stroll past La Scala, through the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II and on to the Duomo, before heading to quieter stretches such as Via Mozza and Via della Passione, which have a truly Milanese spirit. 

Quadrilatero – or the Golden Triangle – is lovely, too, for window shopping. The thing that most sparks my curiosity is the constant change of storefronts and tenants, a never-ending cycle of activity bringing new brands and installations. I walk through this area at the end of every work day, so sometimes at the weekend I prefer to explore the calmer neighbourhood streets. There is so much to explore near my house in Brera, including one of the city’s most beautiful churches, the neo-gothic Santa Maria del Carmine, with its terracotta façade. And the nearby Botanical Garden is one of my favourite escapes. After a period of neglect, this place, which was created at the behest of Maria Theresa of Austria, has now been restored. Today, passing through an area of monumental buildings, you suddenly enter a peaceful oasis full of nature and history.

The highlight of any day is aperitivo and I always go to the bar at the Bulgari Hotel Milano. They make me a special margarita il solito just the way I like it, with reposado [aged in oak barrels] tequila, and Niko Romito’s finger food is excellent. I might meet a friend here to discuss art and design and I feel it’s an important, enjoyable conclusion to the day, but one drink is always enough. 

I’ll meet Terry for dinner at Torre di Pisa, a classic place that was once a favourite with Ettore Sottsass and the Memphis group, as well as fashion designers and journalists. It still feels very ’60s and the simple dishes of spaghetti alla puttanesca and ribollita go well with a glass of Tuscan red. They make a special insalata mista for Terry: I like it when a restaurant feels like your own private kitchen.

Sunday mornings start with a walk in Sempione Park and on to the Castello Sforza – I enjoy the wide-open spaces. For lunch, we might go to L’Arabesque, a design store with a café that serves excellent risottos and grilled fish, or to the Mudec Museum, a contemporary art collection that does a nice Sunday brunch. On the rare Sunday night that we don’t eat at home, we’ll go to Langosteria, which has the best seafood tartares, or maybe to Nobu, near our house. I like the cleanliness and fresh taste of Japanese food, and it can be a nice change at the end of a weekend with a typically Milanese flavour.”

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David Wiseman: bespoke floral artwork

Fantastical creations that climb walls and cover ceilings

Fantastical creations that climb walls and cover ceilings

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Nature is brought indoors through the exuberant work of Los Angeles-based artisan, David Wiseman – a specialist in porcelain, ceramic and bronze decorative arts. His fantastical creations are “inspired by trees, blossoms, seeds, molecular bonds and mountainous forms”, he says, and his bespoke, twisting vines and branches that appear to climb walls and cover entire ceilings (from $150,000) have an international following.

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“Every person has a different narrative,” says Wiseman, who works with individuals – as well as with corporate clients and leading architects – to sketch floral, unconstrained works of art to suit a variety of spaces, both large and intimate. From his earliest commissions for current Design Miami director Rodman Primack, to three boutique interiors created for Dior in concert with architect Peter Marino, Wiseman has carved a niche in floral and fauna formations (first picture) crafted from plaster, porcelain, bronze and resin.

“Some people know exactly what they want – an architectural feel or blossoming elements, for example – while others give me total creative carte blanche,” Wiseman says. He takes the design direction to his eight-person studio to create rubber moulds. Each intricate work of art – whether climbing wisteria for a four-storey New York City townhouse (third and fourth pictures); a canopy of hand-finished, porcelain cherry blossoms; or a wall of cascading lily-of-the-valley in one Shanghai shop – is comprised of a series of small, 4in pieces so that each can be assembled and later moved if necessary when possible. Some are installed on-site permanently and cannot be moved. From initial design to installation usually takes a year.

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In addition to large-scale work, Wiseman also produces custom branch mirrors ($7,500-$95,000, second picture) and exquisite cherry blossom candlesticks with slip-cast porcelain blooms ($25,000) in his bronze foundry. Elaborate collage fireplace screens ($85,000), limited-edition Geode vases ($15,000), and one-of-a kind chandeliers (price on request) – such as the one that graces jeweller Jessica McCormack’s London boutique – round out the artist’s offerings.

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“My dream commission is the entire interior,” explains Wiseman. “From the walls to the tables to candlesticks – right down to the custom woven silk carpets I am currently creating. My work is about abundance, curiosity and celebrating the wild world.”

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Jacques Grange talks personal taste: Part One

Interior designer Jacques Grange combines tradition with art deco to elegantly eclectic effect for clients from François Pinault to Madison Avenue’s The Mark hotel

Interior designer Jacques Grange combines tradition with art deco to elegantly eclectic effect for clients from François Pinault to Madison Avenue’s The Mark hotel

Image: Lea Crespi

Image: Lea Crespi

My personal style signifiers are dark-navy – almost black – trousers by Dior, light-blue linen shirts and grey cashmere pullovers by Loro Piana, and a very relaxed, unstructured Armani jacket. I think sticking to one look that works is very chic, especially for men. www.armani.comwww.dior.comwww.loropiana.com.

Grange’s photograph of Colette by Irving Penn | Image: Lea Crespi

Grange’s photograph of Colette by Irving Penn | Image: Lea Crespi


The last thing I bought and loved was a photograph of Colette in repose by Irving Penn, which I bought at auction at Christie’s. I am fortunate to live in her former apartment in the Palais-Royal, and this image from the 1930s captures the years she spent as an actress. www.christies.com.

And the thing I’m eyeing next is one of three rare pieces of art-deco furniture by Eileen Gray, which have recently come up for sale at the Galerie Jacques de Vos in Paris. I adore her designs and would love to add one of her chairs, a console or a library table to my collection. 7 Rue Bonaparte, 75006 Paris (+331-4329 8894; www.galerie-devos.com).

Canvas Bibendum armchairs by Eileen Gray, c1930, available at the Galerie Jacques de Vos | Image: Courtesy of Galerie Jacques de Vos

Canvas Bibendum armchairs by Eileen Gray, c1930, available at the Galerie Jacques de Vos | Image: Courtesy of Galerie Jacques de Vos

The best souvenir I’ve brought home is a brilliant blue tile from Marrakech. It was given to me on my first trip there, in the 1970s, by longtime client and friend Yves Saint Laurent, and will forever remind me of a special time and a great friendship.

Grange’s tile from Marrakech, given to him by Yves Saint Laurent | Image: Lea Crespi

Grange’s tile from Marrakech, given to him by Yves Saint Laurent | Image: Lea Crespi


The last meal that truly impressed me was at El Mercado in Lima. The garden setting was the perfect place to sample spicy Peruvian ceviche, roast scallops with pisco and decadent deep-fried pumpkin and sweet potato doughnuts. Hipólito Unanue 203, Miraflores, Lima 18 (+511-221 1322).

he Road to Mandalay cruising the Ayeyarwady River near Bagan, in Myanmar | Image: Belmond/Zaw Min Yu

he Road to Mandalay cruising the Ayeyarwady River near Bagan, in Myanmar | Image: Belmond/Zaw Min Yu


An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Myanmar. It is still so unspoilt that it felt like stepping back into the 19th century. We sailed along the scenic Ayeyarwady aboard Belmond’s Road to Mandalay, stopping at villages, Bagan, Mingun and the pagoda of King Bodawpaya. The hundreds of temples lining the river valley resemble a necklace of many gems. A balloon trip at sunrise was a magical highlight. www.belmond.com.

Frédéric Malle’s Cologne Bigarade

Frédéric Malle’s Cologne Bigarade


An indulgence I would never forego is a very comfortable bed with luxurious sheets. A proper night’s rest is the foundation of everything – including a productive day. I like a very good, firm Simmons mattress with plain, white Egyptian cotton sheets from Noël and down pillows. www.noel-paris.comwww.simmons.com.

The grooming staples I’m never without are the Crème de la Mer moisturiser I use every day and Frédéric Malle’s Cologne Bigarade, which has slight citrus notes and feels very fresh. I also like the unfussy and pure shampoo by French brand Klorane. Crème de la Mer moisturiser, £105 for 30ml; www.cremedelamer.com. Frédéric Malle Cologne Bigarade, £110 for 100ml; www.fredericmalle.com. Klorane shampoo, £5 for 200ml; www.laboratoires-klorane.fr.

The best gift I’ve given recently was a spectacular 40-year-old plane tree to a friend for his bastide in the Loire Valley. It was 10m tall and he was quite surprised when it arrived. It has been planted in an expansive field that can be viewed from the house and casts some lovely shadows. I bought it at a wonderful garden centre in Amboise. Pépinières Paysages Petitbon et Fils, Route d’Amboise D 81, La Noue Drouin, 37150 Civray de Touraine (+3324-723 8282; www.pepinieres-petitbon.com).

And the best one I’ve received recently was a very personal letter from my dear friend Pierre Bergé. I recently celebrated a milestone birthday and received many beautiful gifts, but this heartfelt note was the most touching of all, particularly as he’s not an easy-going man. I was given a beautiful gouache by Francis Ford Coppola too, which shows the two of us together at his hotel, Palazzo Margherita in Bernalda.

My favourite websites are interiors related. I research 20th-century furniture and objets on Galerie du Passage; I like Galerie L’Arc en Seine for art-deco furnishings and the Gladstone Gallery site for contemporary art; and The Salon: Art + Design offers a comprehensive collection of fine and decorative art dealers from all over the world. www.arcenseine.comwww.galeriedupassage.comwww.gladstonegallery.comwww.thesalonny.com.

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Paris’s chic apothecary Buly 1803

A magical emporium inspired by 19th-century French hospital pharmacies

A magical emporium inspired by 19th-century French hospital pharmacies

One of the most wonderful new additions to Paris’s Saint-Germain-des-Prés is Buly 1803, a boutique specialising in scented oils, lotions, soaps, candles and creams. Although open for less than a year, this chic apothecary on Rue Bonaparte was inspired by traditional 19th-century French hospital pharmacies.

Image: Alexandre Guirkinger

Image: Alexandre Guirkinger


Buly 1803 is a true labour of love for husband and wife owners Ramdane Touhami and Victoire de Taillac, and no detail has been overlooked, from exquisite oak shelves, marble counter surfaces and Sicilian floor tiles to the stylish, calligraphic labels and elegant back-lighting that renders glass vessels glowing. The duo had an impressive journey to launching the boutique: Touhami was the co-owner and artistic director of luxe candlemakers Cire Trudon, while de Taillac was communications director for Colette. Together, they have revived a venerable French brand – originally opened in 1803 under the name Bully (one “l” has been dropped to contemporise the name) – and have reimagined its formulations for a new age.


Image: Alexandre Guirkinger

Image: Alexandre Guirkinger


Image: Alexandre Guirkinger

Image: Alexandre Guirkinger


Inspired by the firm’s original vinegar perfume-making catalogues, the new concoctions now include natural ingredients – all free from parabens, phenoxyethanol and silicones. This jewel box of a shop invites experimentation and the eight water-based perfumes (€110 each, example in second picture) seemed an excellent place for me to start. Tuberose, bergamot, Scottish lichen and macassar scents were my favourites, each subtle and light. I also liked the Pommade Virginale (€35) face moisturiser, whose sweet almond-oil and linden-water mix I bought in a handy travel tube (it has proven particularly useful for long-haul flights). A similar version for the body – Pommade Concrete (€28, third picture) – enticed me with its tarot-card-inspired label, and is now my cold-weather staple for dry, chapped hands.


Image: Alexandre Guirkinger

Image: Alexandre Guirkinger


I also stocked up on Buly’s vast selection of vegetable oils: from apricot kernel oil (from €4 for 10ml) to one pressed from baobab seeds (from €6 for 10ml). My favourite finds, however, were the scented “glass bell” candles (€120 each) made of rice, soy and copra, with names like “Genereaux D’Empire”(fourth picture) and “Retour D’Egypte”. The ultimate souvenir, however, might just have been the Opiate Dentaire (€18, sixth picture) – a brightening toothpaste with hints of rose.

It was near closing time when I discovered drawers full of natural-honeycomb sponges, horsehair gloves, boar-bristle brushes and Japanese-boxwood combs. They are top of my shopping list for next time...

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Santas Negras

Rare vintage lamps, llama-wool throws and chandelier earrings make this boutique a style beacon on Uruguay’s south coast

Rare vintage lamps, llama-wool throws and chandelier earrings make this boutique a style beacon on Uruguay’s south coast

The fishing village of José Ignacio on Uruguay’s southern coast has long been a summer escape for stylish South Americans, but it has attracted an international crowd of late – including Ralph Lauren, gallerist Martin Summers and Norwegian entrepreneur Alex Vik. And nowhere is its mix of sun, surf and beach chic more apparent than at Santas Negras, a lifestyle boutique on the outskirts of town.


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Opened in 2012 by artist-interior designers Patricia Torres and Paula Martini (first picture), Santas Negras is a showcase for an energetically eclectic variety of clothing, restored (and sometimes reimagined) mid-century furniture and stylish curios. It is on two levels, with the light-filled top floor curved to “flow organically and promote a circular way of navigating the shop”, says Torres. “We needed a large space to display sets of tables and chairs and enormous light fixtures – and we didn’t want it to feel like a crowded medina,” says Martini.

Hand-woven alpaca- and llama-wool throws ($160-$450) in vibrant fuchsia, orange and azure-blue (dyed by Martini) add colourful punctuation. Meanwhile, raffia‑framed antique fabrics (from $300), locally made sarongs, beach bags and hats (from $25, second picture), quirky collections of antique glass (from $120) and handcrafted pod-like wicker swings ($350) nurture an artisanal ambience.

Italian glass lamp, $1,500 | Image: Eugenio Mazzinghi

Italian glass lamp, $1,500 | Image: Eugenio Mazzinghi


Over 75 per cent of Santas Negras’s offerings are of Uruguayan origin. “I feel uneasy importing things and ignoring what can be made locally,” says Martini. Only La Huella cookbooks ($54) and Vietnamese rugs ($1,200) are brought in from afar – they’re perfect design accents for this sandy setting.

The store’s cherry-picked jewellery and fashion draw creative types. Particularly alluring are the own‑brand delicate hand-knitted sweaters in featherweight wool (from $150) and buttery leather jackets ($550‑$800). A collection of playful “bijouterie not joaillerie” includes bold, beaded necklaces by Argentine artist Victoria Magrane ($70-$150) and chandelier earrings (from $50) – great for the day-to-night chic needed for asados (barbecues) in the high season.

But it’s the rare vintage “miracle finds” that intrigue most – from a striking pair of yellow, mirrored glass lamps ($2,000) discovered in a barn, to tables and chairs by Marcel Breuer, Charles and Ray Eames and Poul Kjærholm (from $800).

The duo’s bespoke offerings – such as upholstered beds and cabinetry made of indigenous pine and eucalyptus (from $400) – attract an ever-wider clientele. “Our customer is a world traveller searching for unique pieces,” explains Martini. “I hope we show them that beautiful things can be made using very few resources.”

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BBQ chic in José Ignacio

Beachside dining with sumptuous seafood and sundowners in Uruguay

Beachside dining with sumptuous seafood and sundowners in Uruguay

For citizens of the world planning to swing by Uruguay, I’d urge a detour to the quaint seaside town of José Ignacio, and in particular to stop at the newly opened La Susana restaurant. The owners of nearby boutique boltholes Estancia Vik and Playa Vik have added this casual beachfront spot to their surf-chic mix, and the menu, ambience and attentive staff – including gregarious chef Marcello – are already firing on all cylinders.

La Susana is open from noon (presumably for the odd American like me who shows up early), but this thatched eatery doesn’t get hopping until about 3pm – a civilised lunch hour for this part of the world. The wooden walkway approach to the restaurant – complete with boxes of kitchen herbs grown along the side – ends in a cheerful, light-filled space full of natural wood, white adobe and upbeat animé paintings lining the walls (the owners are avid contemporary art collectors – don’t miss the James Turrell light installation at Playa Vik just steps down the beach).

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But it is the outdoors – complete with grill and a shaded bamboo-bar area – that is the place to be on sunny afternoons and starry nights. The clientele is eclectic and on the day of our visit the place was packed with locals, European tourists and families. It is an ideal place for children, who can frolic in the sand while parents sip inventive cocktails (largely made with the owner’s Norwegian Christiania vodka), including the Red Hot Caipi (US$10) – vodka, berries, vermouth rosso, Tabasco and lime – and the Sushi Mary ($12) with its delicious mix of tomato juice, wasabi, soy and Worcestershire sauces. The latter sounded a bit odd, but it was salty and satisfying and worked well with the abundance of grilled fare we ordered.

I’m a fan of simple food prepared in interesting, regional ways and La Susana provides just that kind of experience. We started with a plate of Crudités Club 55 ($21.50) – a bountiful platter of locally grown radishes, cucumbers, peppers and courgettes with garlicky sauces for dipping – and the brótola (a local white fish) ceviche of the day ($14.50). Given the restaurant’s location just steps from the ocean, seafood is the way to go here and freshly grilled silverside fish ($17) did not disappoint.  

Straightforward burgers – of the beef ($14) and veggie ($14.50) varieties – were also being turned out by the boatload, all accompanied by sides of rosemary-dusted French fries ($6) and a Uruguayan favourite – crushed ruby beets ($7.50). Of special note were the “side” salads that could have been mistaken for robust meals. The signature La Susana version, for example, is comprised of quinoa, figs, almonds, corn, cabbage and yoghurt, and while it didn’t initially call my name, I ended up loving its combination of textures and flavours.

Desserts included a chocolate-ice-cream bomb ($10) and plenty of the ultra-sweet dulce de leche– in gelados ($10.50) and mousses ($10) – a South American staple at breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Meals can spin out for hours – what’s better than indulging by the beach? – and many diners linger long into the waning sunset. Who can blame them, for at just a year old, La Susana is seriously hitting its stride.

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Puiforcat: 100 Years of Silversmithery

Classics and new collaborations from France’s venerable marque

Classics and new collaborations from France’s venerable marque

Venerable French silversmithing workshop Puiforcat is to be the subject of a glorious centenary retrospective in New York, as Atelier Courbet – in conjunction with Hermès – presents Puiforcat: 100 Years of Silversmithery, on view from Wednesday November 12 to Monday January 5. The first selling show of its kind, the exhibition highlights an array of the marque’s iconic art-deco classics, as well as newer signature collections created with leading contemporary artists.

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Classic pieces such as the Cambo teapot ($43,000, first picture) from 1928 and Sphere tea and coffee set ($131,000) from that same year are two excellent examples of Jean Puiforcat’s skill at combining sterling silver with precious woods, glass and stone. An orange juice pitcher ($71,000, second picture) from 1930 was inspired by the bow of a ship and features an invisible “lost hinge” system that maintains the sleek lines of the piece. A filleted sterling-silver cocktail shaker ($27,000, third picture) – complete with single shot glasses with either smooth or threaded surfaces – and a desk lamp ($42,000) from 1925 in silver and onyx are pure art-deco brilliance. Fashioned by hand and polished to a mirrored shine, each of the 2kg lamps now incorporates state-of-the art LED technology, with an onyx light diffuser and a discreet dimmer switch.

On the home accessories front, the Constellation clock ($46,400) from 1932 features a circle of 12 white marble cylinders embossed with hour digits that arc around a central stud. Updates have been made to the iconic timepiece, including a 21-day mechanical movement. Gamesmanship, meanwhile, is taken to another level in a streamlined backgammon set ($35,000, fourth picture) made of sterling silver, Macassar ebony and sycamore – inspired by Jean Puiforcat’s original art-deco chess set.


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The exhibition will also see the unveiling of Fluidité, a modern line of exquisite tea and coffee pieces created in collaboration with esteemed design artist Aldo Bakker. The artist’s latest sculptural interpretation of the classic tea and coffee service features eight items: a teapot and tea cup, a coffeepot and coffee cup, spoon, sugar bowl, creamer and display tray (from $95,000). This limited-edition series – just 20 of each piece have been made – is handcrafted from sterling silver, ebony and porcelain and employs both sharp geometry and soft curvilinear forms.


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Puiforcat’s aesthetic continues into the 21st century and nowhere is it more exquisitely in evidence than here.


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Interviews1, Fashion1 Christina Ohly Evans Interviews1, Fashion1 Christina Ohly Evans

Francisco Costa talks personal taste: Part One

Francisco Costa is creative director of womenswear at Calvin Klein Collection, where he is known for his spare yet sensual aesthetic and show-stopping red-carpet gowns

Francisco Costa is creative director of womenswear at Calvin Klein Collection, where he is known for his spare yet sensual aesthetic and show-stopping red-carpet gowns

Image: Martin Adolfsson

Image: Martin Adolfsson

My personal style signifier is a collection of three rings. The first is a rosary prayer ring given to me by my mother when I turned 15; the second was my grandfather’s wedding ring and the third was my father’s. I never take them off.

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The last thing I bought and loved was a pair of custom-made, crystal cufflinks from Verdura. These beautiful, faceted cylinders have a delicate gold chain and I plan to wear them with everything, from French cuff shirts and jeans to more formalwear. 745 Fifth Ave, Suite 1205, New York, NY 10151 (+1212-758 3388; www.verdura.com).

And the thing I’m eyeing next is a bleach-on-linen painting by Ed Ruscha called Sour Twist, currently on display at the Gagosian Gallery in New York. I think Ruscha is one of the world’s most iconic contemporary artists. 980 Madison Ave, New York, NY 10075 (+1212-744 2313; www.gagosian.com).

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A recent “find” is Varney’s, a simple clam bar in Brookhaven near my weekend home on Long Island. It’s very authentic and fun and is always packed in summer. Situated right on Montauk Highway, it caters to everyone from locals to celebrities in search of good, fresh clam chowder and fried seafood. 2109 Montauk Highway, Brookhaven, New York, NY 11719 (+1631-286 9569; www.varneysrestaurant.com).

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If I didn’t live in New York, the city I would live in is Rio. I love that it is a very outdoor city year-round and that the people are so warm and welcoming. You’ll find flora and fauna of every kind there and the Jardim Botânico is one of my favourite places to explore. The beaches – particularly Ipanema – are fantastic; I like the Cinelândia neighbourhood for its bookshops, restaurants and galleries; the Museu de Arte Moderna is a cultural highlight and I love having lunch at the eco-chic Hotel Santa Teresa. From the fresh Portuguese-inspired food to the beach culture, I adore the simplicity of life here. Hotel Santa Teresa, Rua Almirante Alexandrino 660 (+5521-2222 2755; www.santa-teresa-hotel.com). Jardim Botânico, Rua Jardim Botânico 1008 (+5521-3874 1808; www.jbrj.gov.br). Museu de Arte Moderna, Infante Dom Henrique 85, Parque do Flamengo (+5521-2240 4944; www.mamrio.com.br).

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An indulgence I would never forego is books, books and more books. I love giving them as gifts, collecting them for my library and generally surrounding myself with them. Titles on my wish list include Dr David Ekserdjian’s Casting ModernityBronze in the XXth Century, Kenneth Frampton’s Kengo Kuma: Complete Works and Deborah Solomon’s Marcel Dzama: Puppets, Pawns, and Prophets. I buy a lot of my books online, but I also like the photography bookshop Dashwood Books in Nolita. 33 Bond St, New York, NY 10012 (+1212-387 8520; www.dashwoodbooks.com).

In my fridge you’ll always find caviar, Moët, which I don’t drink myself but like to have on hand, and bars of very good, raw dark chocolate that I buy at gourmet Italian deli Eataly. You’ll also find vitamins B12, C and D, which tend to sit there, unopened. 200 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10010 (+1212-229 2560; www.eataly.com).

The people I rely on for personal grooming and wellbeing are Chelsea Barbers for my haircuts, Tracie Martyn for incredible, hydrating facials – I love the atmosphere at her salon – and Dr Frank Lipman, my supercool nutritionist at Eleven Eleven Wellness, who keeps me healthy and in balance. Chelsea Barbers, 465 West 23rd St (+1212‑741 2254; www.chelseabarbers.com). Dr Frank Lipman, Eleven Eleven Wellness Center, 32 West 22nd St (+1212-255 1800; www.drfranklipman.com). Tracie Martyn, 101 Fifth Ave (+1212-206 9333; www.traciemartyn.com).





The last music I downloaded was Brazilian: Verdade Uma Ilusão by Marisa Monte, whose voice is heavenly, and All in One by Bebel Gilberto. She comes from a family of great musicians and I love her sound.

My favourite websites are the shopping site Fancy, for a visually energetic and beautifully curated collection of everything from furniture to trainers, and 1stdibs, because it takes me on a journey across the world. www.1stdibs.comwww.fancy.com.







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Francisco Costa talks personal taste: Part Two

The designer concludes his compendium of passions with Cambodia and Cole Porter’s cigarette box

The designer concludes his compendium of passions with Cambodia and Cole Porter’s cigarette box

My style icon is the British fashion stylist Camilla Nickerson. She dresses like no one else – I admire the way she mixes things up – and is effortlessly elegant and cool; even the natural way she wears her hair is refreshing.

The best gift I’ve given recently was a vintage cigarette box designed by Fulco di Verdura for the American singer-songwriter Cole Porter. This was a special gift to my partner that I bid for at auction and it sits on the table in our library. Sotheby’s, 1334 York Ave, New York, NY 10021 (+1212-606 7000; www.sothebys.com).

And the best gift I’ve received recently is a neon artwork created for me for my birthday by my design studio. It reads “Collaboration. Innovation. Fearlessness”: all principles and ideas we value at Calvin Klein, and it hangs in a very special place in my office.

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If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose downtown Manhattan. I love Wyeth for mid-century-modern furniture, Space NK for potions and lotions, and a wonderful food emporium called All Good Things for stocking up on cut flowers, freshly baked bread and great coffee. All Good Things, 102 Franklin Street (+1212-925 5081; www.allgoodthingsny.com). Space NK, 99 Greene Street (+1212-941 4200; www.spacenk.com). Wyeth, 315 Spring Street (+1212-243 3661; www.wyethome.com).

The books on my bedside table are Rachel Zoe’s Living In Style: Inspiration and Advice for Everyday Glamour and Laura Lima, Ronald Duarte’s fascinating look at the mixed-media work of this Brazilian artist. My stack of reading material changes frequently, though, and might also include catalogues from the Wright Auction House, which highlights the best in contemporary design, and always FT Weekend.

The beauty staples I’m never without are Dr Bronner’s all-natural Organic Citrus Conditioning Hair Rinse, which isn’t particularly fancy but I love it, plus the brand's coconut oil, which I use for everything from softening my skin to brushing my teeth and gargling. It takes all the toxins away. Organic Citrus Conditioning Rinse, $10 for 8fl oz; Virgin Coconut Oil, $12 for 14fl oz; www.drbronner.com.

The last item of clothing I added to my wardrobe was a full white-tie ensemble that I designed for this year’s Met Ball. Everyone looked so spectacular that night, and I hope I’ll have another occasion to wear this suit again soon.

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Cambodia. It is simply extraordinary, from Siem Reap and the spectacular Angkor Wat, to the delicious food and sheer force of nature I witnessed everywhere I went. My stay at the stellar Amansara – a very cool mid-century structure transformed into a luxury hotel – was particularly memorable. It once served as the King of Cambodia’s guest villa, and Jackie Onassis visited in the 1960s. From $1,100; Road to Angkor, Siem Reap (+85563-760 333; www.amanresorts.com).

An object I would never part with is a Lucio Fontana lithograph that was the first piece of art I ever bought. I discovered it in Milan – during a time when I was living and working in London many years ago – and it remains a very special part of my collection.

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My favourite room in my house is my library, which gets beautiful morning light and has a soothing atmosphere. I enjoy spending time there alone, surrounded by books from floor to ceiling. It also features a basic, very functional desk and a comfortable sofa of my own design.

The site that inspires me is Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming. I love the American west and this area is very rich in natural beauty. The Teton mountain range is particularly breathtaking, with its rock formations, geysers and endless hikes.

The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Pablo Picasso. He broke all the rules and had a fearless approach to his work. I particularly love his later periods and think that he was a great influence on artists like Andy Warhol and Jean-Michel Basquiat. He fundamentally changed the way we look at art.


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The best souvenir I’ve brought home is a set of little paint vials in very primary colours from Xi’an in China. I went to see the Terracotta Army soldiers at this gorgeous city on the Silk Road and spotted the vials in an art shop nearby. I bought hundreds and had to pay an extra baggage fee to get them home. They are beyond a souvenir to me; I find their pigments very raw and inspiring.

The last meal that truly impressed me was a special breakfast in Cambodia that was served in a simple, local home. We awoke at daybreak to see the sun rise over the temples and were then taken to this very basic wooden shack for kuyteav (noodle soup), fish wrapped in banana leaves and tea. The scent of jasmine was everywhere and the whole meal – and the morning in general – was very purifying.

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be growing vegetables on a farm and living off the land. I find the idea of a simple life very appealing. As a child, I loved to construct things – buildings, gardens, whole environments – so I could also envision being an architect.

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New Mexico’s The Love Apple restaurant

An haute-hippie hideaway set in the dramatic Sangre de Cristo Mountains

An haute-hippie hideaway set in the dramatic Sangre de Cristo Mountains

There is much that is special about Taos, New Mexico, a small town nestled in the dramatic Sangre de Cristo Mountains. There is the magnificent Taos Pueblo – a thriving Native American community still without running water or electricity – and the challenging slopes of Ski Valley, not to mention adobe architecture, artists and cowboys and endless high desert vistas at every turn. Add to that list incredible food – most of it locally sourced – that is prepared using traditional, regional ingredients in inventive and unexpected ways. At the top of my list is The Love Apple, a restaurant that is, I believe, worthy of Michelin stars.

Image: Nita van der Werff

Image: Nita van der Werff


The eatery is set in a sweet, old wooden chapel complete with a church bell – and while we opted to sit inside during my last visit, the atmospheric patio, framed in rough-hewn beams and twinkling tapered candles, beckoned.

Seated at one of just 13 tables, we browsed a menu of organic dishes famous for being made from scratch using added-hormone-free meats, local flour, produce and artisanal cheeses. Housemade flour tortillas with harissa, crème fraîche and cilantro-lime relish and bacon-wrapped dates (here made with bourbon-brined Arizona medjool dates) were perfect starters – and I am still dreaming about the Las Aguas Farm spinach salad with bacon, avocado, blue cheese and fried egg.

Chef de cuisine Andrea Meyer’s entrees were just as scrumptious, with her haute tacos particularly standout. We selected from chicken, fried avocado and chimichurri, and braised “grass-fed & finished” beef varieties, and then topped them liberally with green-chile coconut-creamed corn. Grilled ruby rainbow trout cooked in cornhusks with lime-compound butter and a delicate quinoa-piñon fritter was also memorable, as were sides of Love Apple potato gratin and green beans lightly sautéed with cinnamon. The wine list is similarly noteworthy, with pinot noirs from Oregon (Erath 2011), Bourgogne (Pascal Janvier 2012) and Sonoma (Flowers 2011) a few under-the-radar highlights.

The only cautionary advice I’d give about The Love Apple is to book in advance – there’s an extremely loyal local fan base – and bring cash. No credit cards are accepted, which only adds to the authentic, slightly hippie charm of the place.

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Thierry Despont talks personal taste: Part One

Architect and designer Thierry Despont has renovated some of the world’s most iconic hotels, including The Ritz in Paris, which reopens next summer

Architect and designer Thierry Despont has renovated some of the world’s most iconic hotels, including The Ritz in Paris, which reopens next summer

Thierry Despont photographed at his New York office | Image: Circe Hamilton

Thierry Despont photographed at his New York office | Image: Circe Hamilton

My personal style signifier is a watch – either my Calibre de Cartier, which is elegant and simple, or a classic gold Breguet that features the phases of the moon and has a ringing bell as an alarm. I am always on time. Breguet from $29,000; www.breguet.com. Calibre de Cartier from £5,700; www.cartier.com.

The last thing I bought and loved was a photograph of the moon by the American scientist and photographer John William Draper. I am a passionate collector of books, maps and pictures of the moon, and Draper was one of the first people to capture images of its surface.

Despont’s Calibre de Cartier watch, from $29,000

Despont’s Calibre de Cartier watch, from $29,000

And the thing I’m eyeing next is a first edition of Galileo Galilei’s Starry Messenger. This astronomical treatise features his telescopic observations and discovery of four of Jupiter’s satellites. I have a second edition of this rare book that has beautiful woodcuts and a first edition would complete my collection.

The last meal that truly impressed me was at Bodeguita Antonio Romero, a relaxed and authentic tapas bar near the famous bullring in Seville. This is my favourite kind of food: small plates of manchego cheese, jamón and house specialities such as anchovies en salazón and chipirones rellenosCalle Antonia Díaz 19, 41001 Seville (+3495-422 3939; www.bodeguitaantonioromero.com).

The best souvenir I’ve brought home is a big, fat, navy blue lacquer fountain pen that I bought at Louis Vuitton in Paris. I love to write and correspond the old-fashioned way. €695; 6 Place Saint-Germain des Prés, 75006 Paris (+331-4549 6232; www.louisvuitton.com).

The last music I downloaded was Time Out by The Dave Brubeck Quartet – one of the most innovative albums in jazz history that’s become a classic – and Romanian pianist Rada Lupu’s recital of Schubert’s Moments Musicaux.

Starry Messenger by Galileo Galilei | Image: Circe Hamilton

Starry Messenger by Galileo Galilei | Image: Circe Hamilton

The grooming staple I’m never without is Vetiver eau de toilette by Guerlain. It has notes of wood and spices and I’ve worn it every day for years. £22.50 for 100ml; www.guerlain.com.

My favourite room in my house is the art-deco-inspired, wood-panelled library on the top floor of my home in Tribeca, where I keep my collections of rare architectural books and leather-bound tomes on French history and literature. I love to relax and entertain here.

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In my fridge you’ll always find a bottle of Baron de L Pouilly Fumé from the Loire Valley. I also like to have oysters or fresh sea urchins on hand and plenty of broccoli, which I eat steamed and drizzled with olive oil for breakfast every day. Baron de L Pouilly Fumé, £55; www.pouilly-fume.com.

The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Egon Schiele. He was a master draughtsman and there is a certain kind of poetry in his work – a combination of both happiness and tragedy.



Time Out by The Dave Brubeck Quartet

Time Out by The Dave Brubeck Quartet

The site that inspires me is the Place Vendôme in Paris, where aside from my work on the Ritz I am also involved with the restoration of the historic Vendôme Column. The energy and light here are fantastic and the surrounding buildings by Jules Hardouin-Mansart mark the apex of French baroque architecture.

The best gift I’ve given recently is a pair of large linden trees to Barbara, the woman I love and share my life with. I gave them to her for her birthday and we planted them in our garden in the Hamptons; they frame the view from our bedroom window.

Guerlain Vetiver eau de toilette, £22.50 for 100ml

Guerlain Vetiver eau de toilette, £22.50 for 100ml


And the best one I’ve received is a box of steaks that my friend and client Ralph Lauren sent me from his ranch in Colorado. He sends a parcel of delicious, organically raised meat every year and I always look forward to this special gift.

My favourite websites are Via Libre for rare books and eBay for the old farm artefacts that I incorporate into my sculptures and artworks. I also like YouTube for a bit of gossip and entertainment, and 1stdibs for a wide array of furniture and design.

 www.1stdibs.comwww.ebay.comwww.vialibri.netwww.youtube.com.

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