Verdura Golf and Spa Resort Is the Sicilian Golf Resort You'll Never Want to Leave
All-inclusive resorts are usually a Fathom taboo. Unless it's a sleek Sicilian golf resort with stellar seaside views, high-end dining options, and a full-service spa. Christina Ohly checks out the secluded, self-sustaining spot outside Catania that's surprisingly hard to leave. And this time, we're okay with that.
All-inclusive resorts are usually a Fathom taboo. Unless it's a sleek Sicilian golf resort with stellar seaside views, high-end dining options, and a full-service spa. Christina Ohly checks out the secluded, self-sustaining spot outside Catania that's surprisingly hard to leave. And this time, we're okay with that.
Overview
Sleek stone finishes and fine linens, endless pools and play spaces, and four different and delicious restaurants mean you'll never want to leave Verdura Resort, a golf resort and spa on the southwestern coast of Sicily.
Claim to Fame
The spa is spectacular, with white zen spaces at every turn. Excellent aestheticians specialize in deep tissue massage.
What's on Site
Everything is on site: a great gym, a full-service spa, a pizzeria, and fine dining options. There's WiFi everywhere, but you'll only find Italian channels on television. Consider it part of the cultural immersion, like the resort's soccer clinics for kids led by Juventus players.
The Food
This is a Verdura highlight. Breakfast is served on an enormous poolside patio, and lunch and dinner options range from a simple pizzeria to the seaside Amare, where you get to select your fish from the catch of the day. Chef Fulvio Pierangelini, the famous executive chef of all Rocco Forte Hotels, is often around. He's wonderful, as are his on-site cooking classes.
This Place Is Perfect For
Families, as there are so many kid-centric activities and facilities: A long beach with toys and boats, various pools, tennis courts, and a manageable golf course. Soccer clinics, cool babysitters, and endless room for running around are other highlights. Verdura is also perfect for sun-seekers from the United Kingdom who can fly easily into Palermo or Catania for a weekend away.
But Not So Perfect For
Honeymooners. It seems a bit big and bustling. You never feel like you're seeing other people, so I'm sure there are secluded spaces, but they're not the order of the day.
Room with a View
I stayed in a junior suite with my two pre-teens. It was spacious and comfortable, with incredibly high ceilings and atmospheric linen netting over the king-size bed. Sweeping views of the golf course and the sea made for a relaxing stay.
Neighborhood Vibe
There is no town nearby, but you won't want to leave anyway. This is a self-sustaining compound, with food, drink, classes, sports of all kinds, beauty treatments...the list is endless. The only downside to all of this is that you'll feel slightly guilty for being in this historical part of the world and wanting to sit poolside, prosecco in hand, doing nothing more than reading a book between lunch and dinner.
What to Do Nearby
The Valley of the Temples in nearby Agrigento and the city of Catania, a UNESCO World Heritage site, are both musts. Force yourself off the sun lounger for these bits of culture and for a quick detour to the seaside village of Sciacca. This last stop provides a real dose of local color and a look at a working fishing port. Other nearby attractions include the ruins of Selinunte, Le Scale dei Turchi, and Eraclea Minoa.
Aboubakar Fofana: indigo impresario
Bespoke hand-woven textiles from a Mali-based artisan
Bespoke hand-woven textiles from a Mali-based artisan
The colour blue has long captivated artists from impressionist painters to Japanese wood-blockers, and for the Mali-based artist Aboubakar Fofana it is indigo – and traditional African dyeing techniques – that is close to his heart. The master craftsman and calligrapher creates stunning bespoke textiles from locally sourced plant material in beautiful shades of azure. Fofana delights in projects for companies (clients include Donna Karan and Edun) and private individuals, and creates anything from enormous tents (first picture) to custom bedding, pillows (second picture), clothing, tapestries and art.
After initial conversations with the client, Fofana sets about sketching the project in a storyboard fashion and producing a unique set of dyes from dried, green indigo leaves sourced from West Africa. Handwoven textiles are dyed to meet a client’s choice within a 12-colour range that runs from the lightest ice blue to a rich navy that is almost black. “Clients have come to the atelier pointing to the sky and asking for that particular shade. If the nuance can be dyed in indigo, I am happy to create textiles for anyone who understands my work.”
Basic commissions (from $235 per m) are completed in four to six weeks, with larger-scale pieces – the upholstery of an entire room, for example – taking up to several months. Clients can choose from organic materials such as cotton, linen, ramie and hemp, as well as wool, cashmere and silk. “Much of my own work uses handspun Malian cotton,” explains Fofana. “I love the texture, character and humanity that exists in these textiles.”
Based in the city of Bamako, Fofana remains committed to revitalising interest in his country’s dyeing traditions. “Over many years I have learned about this art through other masters, through reading, studying and practising. It has taken a long time to reconstruct a process that has largely been lost and to practise it as my ancestors did. It has finally produced some good results.”
Better than good: his results are fantastic.
By commission from Atelier Courbet, 175-177 Mott Street, New York (+1212-226 7378; www.ateliercourbet.com).
Delfina Delettrez talks personal taste: Part One
Fine jeweller Delfina Delettrez is a fourth generation Fendi who is known for glamorous talismanic and animal-inspired designs
Fine jeweller Delfina Delettrez is a fourth generation Fendi who is known for glamorous talismanic and animal-inspired designs
My personal style signifiers are beautifully made, vintage-esque heels from Calzoleria Petrocchi, a bespoke Roman shoemaker my great-great grandmother discovered, and simple clerical skirts and dresses from Mario Bianchetti, which are the perfect backdrop for my jewellery. I have them tailored into modern silhouettes and pair them with bright, contemporary separates from Giambattista Valli, Saint Laurent or Valentino. Bianchetti, Via della Pigna 18, 00186 Rome (+3906-679 4837; www.bianchetti.it). Calzoleria Petrocchi, Vicolo Sugarelli 2, 00186 Rome (+3906-687 6289; www.calzoleriapetrocchi.it).
The last thing I bought and loved was TheAgatha Christie Mystery Collection. I was introduced to her writing while staying at Istanbul’s Pera Palace Hotel, where she wrote Murder on the Orient Express. I have become obsessed with her detailed characters and their use of various poisons. Pera Palace Hotel, Mesrutiyet Caddesi 52, 34430 Istanbul (+9021-2377 4000; www.jumeirah.com).
And the thing I’m eyeing next is a painting by Ttozoi, two young Italian artists, Pino Rossi and Stefano Forgion, who use natural pigments and organic materials, such as milk, earth and flour, to create paintings that develop mould and transform over time. Their landscapes remind me of the cloud games I played as a child. I see something new every time I look at them. www.ttozoi.com.
The last meal that truly impressed me was at Thien Kim, a simple Vietnamese trattoria in Rome that specialises in wonderful, authentic soups. I loved the Green Island Paradise broth full of vegetables, prawns and spices. My taste in food tends to be very particular, and everything there was fresh and delicious. Via Giulia 201, 00186 Rome (+3906-6830 7832).
An object I would never part with is a piece of unpolished quartz crystal that I bought in a children’s toyshop several years ago. I believe it is a powerful, healing stone and I carry it in my bag at all times. Occasionally I hold it in my hand for additional strength.
The last items of clothing I added to my wardrobe were white, custom-made men’s shirts from the tailor FG Albertelli; I mix them with everything from colourful skirts to vintage trousers. Via dei Prefetti 11, 00186 Rome (+3906-687 3793; www.flanellagrigia.com).
The last music I downloaded was The Toe Rag Acoustic Sessions by Asgeir, an Icelandic singer-songwriter of beautiful, relaxing folk music, and Pollen by the Liverpool-based band Wave Machines, which mixes strong melodies with alternative rock.
The best gift I’ve given recently was a meditation course to a dear friend, consisting of four days of classes and several months of private sessions. I hope it’s a gift that lasts a lifetime. Centro di Meditazione Trascendentale, Viale Angelico 249, 00195 Rome (+3906-4106 5278; www.meditazionetrascendentale.it).
The site that inspires me is Parco dei Mostri [Park of the Monsters] in Bomarzo. These fantastical gardens were designed in the 16th century and feature all kinds of statues, from Pegasus to the gaping mouth of Orcus, now overgrown with vegetation, as well as quirky buildings such as the Leaning House. www.parcodeimostri.com.
The best souvenir I’ve brought home is cumin from Morocco, which I now put on almost everything I eat. Shopping for spices in the souk was such an incredible, colourful adventure.
The beauty staples I’m never without are Aesop Resurrection Aromatique Hand Balm, a rich moisturising cream that I use several times a day; Uniqa vitamin E oil to nourish my skin and combat wrinkles; and thick, black NARS eye pencils that blend really easily. Aesop Resurrection Aromatique Hand Balm, £19 for 75ml; www.aesop.com. Uniqa E Topical Vitamin E Monodose Ampoules,from £40; www.donnauniqa.com. NARS Eyeliner in Via Veneto, £16; www.narscosmetics.co.uk.
My favourite websites are the pattern archive Patternity for design inspiration, Nowness for art and fashion and Susan Miller’s incredibly accurate horoscopes at AstrologyZone. www.astrologyzone.com.www.nowness.com. www.patternity.org.
Zone Out on the Beach in Sicily at Belmond Villa Sant'Andrea
Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly found a certain spot in the Mediterranean to sit back and tune out. She checks into a charming villa in Taormina for a serene stay on the Sicilian coast.
Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly found a certain spot in the Mediterranean to sit back and tune out. She checks into a charming villa in Taormina for a serene stay on the Sicilian coast.
Overview
La. Dolce. Vita. Villa Sant'Andrea, the Belmond hotel on the beach in Taormina, Sicily, is simply a slice of heaven. The original villa was constructed in the 1830s and has been lovingly restored down to the tropical plants in the surrounding gardens. The crowd is a complete mixed bag, but you're guaranteed to find many Americans and Brits, primarily of older age, as quiet is the order of the day.
What's New
The old is what's great here, but the additions of a gym, a small spa, and complimentary boat tours (with swimming) of the surrounding islands and inlets are all pluses.
What's on Site
You'll find beautiful rooms and suites — most with flower-filled balconies and sea views — as well as the most picturesque patio for breakfasts that can last for hours. People don't come here to work out, but if you must sweat, the adequate small gym features several cardio machines. The spa does excellent in-room or outdoor massages. WiFi is available throughout the property, including at the pool and in the hotel's private beach cabanas.
The Food
Breakfast on the covered terrace is the highlight — a massive spread of yogurts, cereals, breads, and every fruit imaginable, as well as locally sourced honey and jam. And the coffee is killer, of course. Skip dinner as it is wildly expensive and not very charming. You'll have better in town, particularly at rooftop gem Viccolo Stretto in Taormina.
This Place Is Perfect For
Couples and families with extremely well-behaved, older children. This is Italy, so just about anyone and anything will work. But at these prices, it is a wonderful experience for a slightly older set.
But Not So Perfect For
Anyone on a budget. The €10 Diet Cokes really do add up.
Room with a View
I stayed in a small sea view junior suite (Room 211) with exquisite views of the Bay of Mazzarò. The beds are dreamy — thick, firm mattresses with perfectly pressed cotton sheets — in that way that is so specific to great Italian hotels. All rooms have been upgraded to include electrical outlets for all chargers (US, UK, EU) and the most modern bathroom amenities. Be sure to request a room away from the service elevator, which kicks in very early in the morning.
Neighborhood Vibe
A shuttle whisks guests up to Taormina proper, where the atmospheric streets — winding passages, frescoed cathedrals, and trattorias galore — make for a fun afternoon or evening. This is not Capri: You won't find Gucci or Prada, but rather smaller, artisanal shops selling beads, limoncello, and some of the best gelato and granita I've had anywhere in Italy.
What to Do Nearby
Mount Etna often supplies visual excitement (it was active this past summer) and Siracusa is a little more than an hour away. A summertime film festival brings stars from around the globe who all stay at the sister property in town, Grand Hotel Timeo, which itself is worth a dinner overlooking the twinkling light of town and the Mediterranean in the distance. The picturesque towns of Modica and Noto — as well as the baroque Cathedral of San Giorgio — can be accessed by your very own Fiat 500, which can be arranged for in advance with the concierge.
Los Angeles’s Just One Eye
Hollywood history, high art and fashion meet in this seriously cool boutique
Hollywood history, high art and fashion meet in this seriously cool boutique
In a storied art-deco building – once home to Howard Hughes’s film empire – you’ll find Just One Eye, a concept store co-founded in 2011 by fashion veteran Paola Russo. A favourite among style insiders, it’s a 5,000sq ft emporium that’s a mine of unexpected brands and innovative artistic collaborations.
Russo brings a serious fashion CV to the boutique – she worked with Ann Demeulemeester – and her picks pay homage to the quirky, the elegant and street chic. Clothing from Valentino, Chloé and Church’s is interspersed with pieces from more cutting-edge designers, including Atto, Lisa Marie Fernandez and Diemme. Meanwhile, cool accessories include limited-edition luxury backpacks (from $55,000) that are a design collaboration between Damien Hirst and The Row, and Converse trainers co-created with Nate Lowman ($25,000, third picture) plus show-stopping jewellery, such as a gorgeous emerald cocktail ring from French designer Arnaud Porchet ($16,500).
A curatorial eye is also behind the shop’s artwork. Alexander Calder wall hangings ($39,000-$48,000) sit beside edgy prints by NYC-based artist Marilyn Minter ($65,000), while coffee-table tomes such as Donald Judd Furniture: Retrospective ($3,500) are dotted throughout. Standout furniture includes a Maison Darré Triangle Table ($25,000); Chantal Saccomanno and Olivier Dayot’s stunning monochrome, lacquered The Red Line table ($28,000, fourth picture); and an art-nouveau Carlo Bugatti side chair ($14,500).
When I visited, chic metallic slides by Ancient Greek Sandals ($215) and Gianvito Rossi’s super-high Carey three-buckle pumps ($1,020) caught my eye. I was also thrilled to find a pair of black pony boots by Pierre Hardy ($1,595, sixth picture) – one of my favourite designers – while a crocodile chain bag by Jean Paul Gaultier alum Alexandre Vauthier ($20,795, fifth picture) was swiftly added to my wish list.
I ended my visit torn between several items but, thankfully, I only had to click online when I made my final decision…
Rome's Hot New Hotel Is a Poet's Old Home
An old property is becoming the big news in Roman hospitality. Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly checked into the former home of German writer Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, the hot addition to Rome's hotel options.
An old property is becoming the big news in Roman hospitality. Fathom contributing editor Christina Ohly checked into the former home of German writer Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, the hot addition to Rome's hotel options.
CHECKING IN
La Scelta di Goethe has been spectacularly transformed into a series of sumptuous apartments that makes for a home stay like no other. Do not judge this book by its cover, as the entrance to the luxury apartments is a simple door on bustling Via del Corso, just around the corner from the Spanish Steps.
Guests are greeted at the main door and escorted up to the fourth floor apartments, where they're welcomed with fresh fruits, pressed juices, and champagne.
There are three suite options: Trinita dei Monti has sweeping terraces, a well-stocked library, and a rooftop soaking pool. Villa Medici has quiet bedrooms, a spacious and high-ceiling living room, and a private dining room overlooking the the domes of Trinita dei Monti. Goethe's Home, at 260 square meters, is the total house takeover that includes both Trinita dei Monti and Villa Medici suites. Access to additional communal areas makes it ideal for families, small groups, or those seeking big, elegant, silent space.
A stay at La Scelta is simply unlike anyplace else. Every finish and fabric — exquisite marbles! beautiful woods! — has been carefully considered by Mario Angelini, the warm owner. The dedicated butler and concierge stay completely out of sight — until you need to ask questions about running routes, cultural highlights, and hidden trattoria throughout this eternally wonderful city.
Claim to Fame
Just opened a year ago, the hotel is still under the radar, but it won't be for long. The name translates as "the choice of Goethe," and these are, in fact, the former apartments of German poet J.W. Goethe. A stay is like a wonderful history lesson with five-star polish and service and the best access to the city.
What's on Site
The refined attic apartments are more like the home of a Roman royal than the usual luxury hotel. There is nothing typical about the rich tapestries, the Florentine artwork, and the exceptional collections of contemporary glass that line the shelves. You will find yourself marveling at the overall design, a loving restoration of an historic building in the heart of the city, but one that incorporates the latest technologies in subtle ways (like loaded iPads in every guest room). The perfectly pressed sheets are of the highest thread count, and the amenities in the sleek bathrooms are Santa Maria Novella, including toothbrushes and paste. No small request is overlooked, and delectable snacks appear at key points throughout the day. No gym, no restaurant; good WiFi, televisions, and phones. The staff is happy to arrange gym passes. Markets just outside the front door make stocking up on cold Diet Cokes a cinch.
Room with a View
My extended family and I were lucky enough to take over the entire house, which made for a very different, more personal Roman stay. I slept in the quiet back room in the master suite. I absolutely loved the owner, Mario. With his warm smile and chatty Italian (I told him I spoke the language once upon a time, as in, 25 years ago), I learned so much about the neighborhood and the loving restoration of these apartments, as well as his sister property, San Buono, in the Tuscan hills.
The Food
Breakfast is the total highlight of any stay here, and, when possible, is served on the rooftop terrace, with 360-degree views of Villa Borghese, Vatican City, and Saint Carlo Church in the distance. It was a meal I won't soon forget: muesli, yogurt, meats and cheeses, berries of every kind, a delicious plum tart, fresh breads and croissants from the baker down the street. It just went on and on.
This Place Is Perfect For
Groups of six, families with older children, couples looking for a total escape. That La Scelta di Goethe can work for any and all is a testament to the staff and how hard they work to ensure that every guest is looked after.
But Not So Perfect For
Anyone with mobility issues and small children, as there are multiple stairs involved. The cream-colored sofa fabrics and fine artworks by Pietro Bardellino aren't very kid-friendly either.
CHECKING OUT
Neighborhood Vibe
The luxury suites are a complete oasis in an otherwise frenetic part of the city. You're a minute from the Spanish Steps, the high-end shops lining Via Condotti, and Piazza del Popolo, yet you'll feels like you've stepped back in time.
What to Do Nearby
You're in the middle of Rome. What can't you do? Area highlights include Basilica Santa Maria del Popolo, straciatella gelato from Il Gelato (Largo Monte D'Oro, 28), dinners outside at Piazza del Popolo's Dal Bolognese(more for the scene than the food, which is perfectly fine), and pizza and foccacia by the slice from Grano around the corner (literally, the best I've ever had). The Pantheon, the most beautiful building on earth, is a short walk away, as is lunch of incredible cheeses and crudo at nearby Roscioli.
FIND IT
La Scelta di Goethe
Via del Corso, 107, 00187
Roma, Italy
+39-06-6994-2219
info@lasceltadigoethe.com
BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE
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Hometwon Debrief: Katie Parla's Rome
Amagansett’s chic Tiina the Store
Nordic cool meets East Coast elegance at this Long Island boutique
Nordic cool meets East Coast elegance at this Long Island boutique
On a recent visit to Long Island, I came upon Tiina the Store, an Amagansett emporium of housewares, beauty products and under-the-radar fashion brands. Set in a 19th-century farmhouse, the shop is the loving work of Tiina Laakkonen, who draws on her Finnish roots and time spent working with Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel, at Lanvin, and later at British Vogue, to curate a mix of classic pieces and new labels (there is a dedicated special “guest room” where emerging designers showcase their work).
A visit to the shop is to discover tablecloths set with graphic Marimekko ($198) and Klassböls linens ($39 for a napkin; $42 for a towel); Iittala black-and-white porcelain serving bowls ($125, second picture); and Scandinavian glass tumblers (sets of two, $28) in hues of lilac, sand and blue. Beauty products by cult brand Rodin sit alongside vitrines of semiprecious jewellery – pavé crescent earrings by Ten Thousand Things ($2,560, third picture) and rose gold necklaces by Two Starboard ($850) – while chic interiors pieces range from iconic Aalto Finlandia vases by Iittala ($145-$240, fourth picture) to simple birch tealights ($38) by Aarikka.
The best finds, however, are Laakkonen’s fashion selections. Her expertise really shines through, whether that be in her choice of Santa Cruz pullovers by Crippen ($345), hand-spun cashmere Picasso sweaters ($1,215, fifth picture) by LA-based brand The Elder Statesman, or, my personal favourite, French architect Denis Colomb’s silk, cotton and cashmere shawls ($190-$1,590). I have seen some of his scarves in New York City, but never such a wide selection.
“The store is full of things I love and have discovered either growing up in Finland, in my life in Paris and London, or while travelling,” says Laakkonen. Visitors are in for an extremely stylish treat…
Comma Workshop: message in a blanket
Stylish, custom, hand-stitched heirloom quilts with personalised missives
Stylish, custom, hand-stitched heirloom quilts with personalised missives
Quilts have long told stories, through words, patterns and pictures, and one artist keeping this narrative tradition alive is Kerry Larkin, who embroiders quilts with subtle lettering. Her chic creations are designed as heirloom pieces, and can be stitched with the text from wedding vows, for example, or a baby’s birthdate, as well as poetry, quotes and other written messages.
The process begins with a consultation with Larkin by phone or email, followed by three layout options. Clients will likely take inspiration from her past works, including the Counterpoint Collection (from $1,025), a collaboration with Paris-based writer Jody Jenkins that features simple, uplifting poetry, or the more intricate Reach Across quilt that comes with three layers of overlapping text (available in queen, $2,350, and king, $2,725).
All feature the artist’s signature freehand cursive, though clients can also choose from two additional font styles – Times New Roman or Tahoma – while a range of colours can be selected, from charcoal to brilliant blue. Quilts can also be personalised by thread, trim and colour, in three standard sizes: smaller throws (60in x 65in), queen (86in x 93in) and king (104in x 104in). Requests for other sizes can also be accommodated.
All quilts (custom versions from $1,075) are made from 100 per cent cotton, and take four to six months to complete. Larkin, who comes from a family of quilt-makers, seamstresses and upholsters, learnt her craft from her great grandmother in the Pennsylvania Dutch country, before going on to study architecture. “I wanted to merge that design sense with something functional,” she says. “Quilts were the natural next step. Patches and patterns have been used for centuries in quilts, and I hope that my words will create something beautiful as well.”
La Scelta di Goethe’s sumptuous Roman suites
The German poet’s home has been gloriously restored, and has views to match
The German poet’s home has been gloriously restored, and has views to match
Recently, for a one-night layover in Rome, rather than book a touristy hotel by the Spanish Steps, I took the recommendation of a friend who is something of an Italy connoisseur. She suggested La Scelta de Goethe, adding that I shouldn’t be put off by the website, which doesn’t do justice to the restored former home of the German poet, writer and statesman. I briskly booked online and was intrigued when we pitched up outside the unassuming front door on Via del Corso. After being buzzed in and warmly greeted by one of the staff, our party of five piled into a tiny lift.
Spilling out on the fourth floor, we were escorted through the doors of this former pied-à-terre, now “an elegant attic” with some 260sq m of exquisitely furnished rooms, as well as balconies and terraces that afford 360-degree views of the city’s historical centre.
La Scelta di Goethe is actually comprised of two separate apartments – the Villa Medici Suite (€2,200; sleeps four), with its sprawling, high-ceilinged sitting room (first picture), and the slightly smaller, duplex Trinità dei Monti Suite (€1,600; sleeps two), with additional terraces, an outdoor hot tub and views toward Villa Borghese, Villa Medici and Trinità dei Monti. When the two suites are combined (for a total cost of €3,800 per night), as was the case during our stay, the effect is a magical space enlivened by 19th-century furnishings in gorgeous Florentine fabrics, elegant fireplaces and mosaic-tiled bathrooms (with state-of-the-art showers and Santa Maria Novella amenities; I do love a stay that includes luxe toothpaste). There is also a well-stocked library and a private dining room (second picture).
A butler is on hand 24/7, and ours was prepared to go the extra mile – literally – as he offered to suit up and accompany me on my 7am run, so that I wouldn’t get lost in the surrounding labyrinthine streets.
After one of the best – and, surprisingly, quietest – sleeps I’ve had in a long time, I woke to La Scelta de Goethe’s pièce de resistance the next morning: Continental breakfast taken on the impressive terrace. The stacks of pancakes, cereals and yogurts, choice of meat, cheese, fruit, cakes and pastries, not to mention excellent coffee, added up to one of the finest spreads I’ve seen; any and all eggs can be made to order as well. What made this meal particularly unforgettable was a chance to meet the owner Mario Angelini, who is often at his other property in Tuscany, San Buono, but just happened to pop by that morning, taking a genuine delight in educating us about the property and all its sumptuous finishes.
A truly chic and memorable, if fleeting, stay.
How to Have the Perfect Family Vacation in the Berkshires
In the Berkshires, the easy days of summer—swimming holes, berry patches, meandering hikes through farmland and forests—meet world-class museums and culture festivals in one fantastic, make-everyone-happy family vacation.
Great Barrington & Stockbridge
After your dose of high art, these historic towns offer more low-key culture. Start at Stockbridge’s Norman Rockwell Museum; this summer’s event “Mom, Apple Pie, and Rockwell’s Models” is a celebration of the simple pleasures that inspired the artist, with music, classic American fare, and the chance to meet some of his models (413-298-4100).
STAY
The history lessons continue at the Red Lion Inn in Stockbridge. Dating from 1773, it has period furnishings and a wide porch with rocking chairs (30 Main St.; 413-298-5545; doubles from $155).
Williamstown & North Adams
From here, it’s a few miles east to North Adams and MASS MoCA. Stop by the contemporary art hub’s dedicated Kidspace, which has installations by Anselm Kiefer and colorful wall drawings by Sol LeWitt (413-662-2111). Nearly an acre of interior walls were built at MASS MoCA to showcase LeWitt’s large-scale drawings.
STAY
After a day of exploring, retreat to the Porches Inn at MASS MoCA, a series of Victorian row houses with oversized rooms and suites that work particularly well for families (231 River St.; 413-664-0400; doubles from $190). The pool is a big plus on hot summer days, as are the breakfasts, which are delivered to your door in traditional millworkers’ lunch boxes. There’s also the Guest House at Field Farm, a Williamstown B&B with a mid-century modern aesthetic and an impressive contemporary art collection. It’s on 300-plus acres of conservation land, with guided walks for children in summer (554 Sloan Rd.; 413-458-3135; doubles from $200).
Lenox & Becket
Summer is high season for the performing arts here. Tanglewood, home of the Boston Symphony Orchestra in July and August, premieres on July 5 in Lenox, south of Williamstown. Pack a picnic, sit on the lawn, and listen to performers like Joshua Bell, Yo-Yo Ma, and James Taylor. The Afternoon Family Concerts and the Boston Pops’ rendition of _The Wizard of Oz _are lively and informal, with children roaming (relatively) free on the lawns, even during concerts (888-266-1200).
PLAY
There’s always something inspiring to see at the Jacob’s Pillow Dance Festival in Becket, where free outdoor performances Wednesday through Saturday evenings—more than 40 throughout the season—offer a distinguished lineup of contemporary dance and ballet (413-243-0745). Shakespeare & Company’s summer production of _Romeo and Juliet _at The Mount—Edith Wharton’s majestic former estate, pictured here—gives young theatergoers an introduction to the playwright, while scavenger hunts keep the little ones busy in maze-like gardens (413-551-5111).
Lenox & Becket
Even in an area with no shortage of great lodgings and restaurants, Wheatleigh—a spectacular 19th-century Florentine-inspired palazzo in Lenox—stands out as one of the most luxurious. Parents can relax in a neutral-hued suite or by the pool while children explore the endless lawns (11 W. Hawthorne Rd.; 413-637-0610; doubles from $715). Stonover Farm, a B&B also in Lenox, has two stand-alone villas—the two-bedroom Rock Cottage and the 600-square-foot School House—for families craving a little extra space (169 Under Mountain Rd.; 413-637-9100; doubles from $335). Just up the road, the stately Blantyre is another excellent option; kids will love the turrets, gargoyles, and other castle-like ornamentation, as well as games like boccie, shuffleboard, and croquet. There’s also a superlative spa for adults (16 Blantyre Rd.; 413-637-3556; doubles from $600).
Lenox & Becket
Regardless of where you stay, stop at a roadside stand for fresh produce, then breakfast burritos and granola at the Haven Cafe and Bakery in Lenox (8 Franklin St.; 413-637-8948). And be sure to have dinner at Becket’s Dream Away Lodge, a farmhouse where the food, including the delicious duck carnitas tacos, is as magical as the atmosphere; there’s also live music and bonfires nightly (1342 County Rd.; 413-623-8725; entrées from $20).
Williamstown & North Adams
A quintessential college town complete with church spires and a postcard-worthy main street, Williamstown (home of Williams College) would merit a stop even if it weren’t the site of the new Tadao Ando–designed Clark Art Institute, which opens on the Fourth of July. Families can fill an entire afternoon and evening on some days with everything from outdoor concerts to the stellar collection of Impressionist art, as well as the interactive Looking Carefully Cards for kids six and up, which turn gallery gazing into an act of discovery (413-458-2303). For your naturalists-in-training, head to Cricket Creek Farm, a working Williamstown dairy and bakery where they’ll learn about caring for farm animals and making cheese (1255 Oblong Rd.; 413-458-5888). Or you can spend an afternoon watching dragonflies flit and red-tailed hawks soar at Mountain Meadow Preserve, 180 pastoral acres with miles of easy trails just up the road from Williamstown (413-298-3239).
Great Barrington & Stockbridge
Also in Stockbridge, the Berkshire Botanical Garden (pictured)—with its free Family Fridays featuring birds of prey and the snakes of Berkshire County, a hut made of willow, and a Hogwarts-inspired herb garden full of wacky-looking plants—shouldn’t be missed (413-298-3926). Nor should the nearby Naumkeag, an eccentric Gilded Age estate with eight acres of terraced gardens (413-298-3239).
Great Barrington & Stockbridge
Cooling off at Bash Bish Falls State Park, home to the area’s highest single-drop waterfall and a short drive from Great Barrington.
Great Barrington & Stockbridge
For another outdoor excursion, visit Otis Reservoir (pictured), outside Great Barrington, or Sheffield’s Bartholomew’s Cobble, the only National Natural Landmark in the Berkshires, with massive limestone and marble outcroppings created by ancient geologic shifts (413-229-8600).
Great Barrington & Stockbridge
Picking berries is a rite of summer in the Berkshires, with blueberry season kicking off at Great Barrington’s Windy Hill Farm on or around the Fourth of July (413-298-3217). Nearby, Noble’s Tweenbrook Farm has strawberries (356 E. New Lenox Rd.; 413-443-2210) and Bartlett’s Orchard, in Richmond, offers late-summer apple picking (413-698-2559).
EAT
In Great Barrington, the French-inflected Bizalion’s is known for its simple menu of crusty baguettes filled with prosciutto, Gruyère, and sweet cornichons (684 Main St.; 413-644-9988; sandwiches from $8). For an early dinner of _shumai _and soba, go to **Bizen Kaiseki **(17 Railroad St.; 413-528-4343; entrées from $7). End the evening the way all good summer evenings should: with ice cream. You can’t go wrong with a scoop of mint chip or mission fig from SoCo Creamery (955 S. Main St.; 413-528-8400).
Alan Faena’s Miami Beach
The Argentine developer and hotelier has enlisted Pritzker Prize-winning architects Norman Foster and Rem Koolhaas to design his new cultural and residential Faena Miami Beach
The Argentine developer and hotelier has enlisted Pritzker Prize-winning architects Norman Foster and Rem Koolhaas to design his new cultural and residential Faena Miami Beach
I love spending weekends in Miami Beach because I find the mix of South American and Caribbean cultures so energising. I wake very early on Saturday mornings and start the day by saying a little prayer overlooking the ocean. This is followed by some quiet meditation, a cup of maté – the typical Argentinian tea – and playing with my son, Noa. I enjoy a light breakfast accompanied by the music that is a big part of my life. I have an extensive collection of rare albums that includes everything from tango to cumbia – Colombian music with European and African influences. I enjoy making playlists that set the tone of everything I do.
Later I go to the Equinox gym on nearby Collins Avenue. Or if I am in a quieter mood, I might take a yoga lesson at Green Monkey in Sunset Harbor, where classes are built around the core values of positivity, balance and community.
I don’t like to plan things too far ahead; I prefer to feel the vibe of the day and embrace it. If the weather is beautiful – and it almost always is – I’ll take a long walk on the beach before lunch. I like the area near our new development at Collins Avenue and 32nd Street, which has one of the widest stretches of white sand in Miami Beach.
I often take a small boat from our marina to Garcia’s for a lunch of fresh seafood – ceviche and grilled lobster – served at outdoor tables along the Miami River. Then I like to explore this dynamic city by just walking and absorbing the eclectic architecture. Afternoons are often spent at Vizcaya, an incredible villa with elaborate gardens, or museums and galleries such as the Wolfsonian in the Art Deco District. Another favourite is the Wynwood Arts District, an area full of restaurants and shops; it has a massive open-air art installation and the annual Red Dot Art Fair, an enormous tented space where I always find sculpture and photography by emerging artists.
Afterwards I’ll return home to catch up on the news or read a good book – often Tolstoy’s A Calendar of Wisdom, which I find inspiring – with a nice glass of wine from the Ribera del Duero region of Spain. In the evening, I like to join friends at Casa Tua for Italian food served in a magical garden with Moroccan lanterns. It is just like being in a private home and the tagliatelle with black truffles is always excellent. For fresh fish and mezes, I’ll head to Mandolin, an Aegean bistro in the Design District that feels authentically Greek. After a delicious meal and some good conversation, I’m typically home by midnight.
Sunday starts at JugoFresh with a Vamos Green juice – a smoothie packed with apple, cucumber and kale – followed by croque-monsieurs and croissants at French-owned La Sandwicherie. If I feel like brunch, I’ll go to Michael’s – a vibrant bistro in the Design District with excellent frittatas and people-watching.
Afternoons are often spent shopping – mostly for books or records along Lincoln Road – or visiting the Bass Museum of Art. If I am looking for unique clothes I’ll visit The Webster, a three-storey art-deco boutique that has a great café. I also like Taschen for books on art and design and I always find curious objects and new music at Base, a quirky store full of limited-edition finds.
In the evening I’ll invite people over and prepare an enormous barbecue with all kinds of meat and vegetables, best enjoyed watching the sunset with a good Malbec. And after an exciting weekend of art, food and friends, a bath with essential oils leaves me refreshed for the busy week ahead.
BASE, 939 Lincoln Road (+1305-531 4982; www.baseworld.com). Bass Museum of Art, 2100 Collins Avenue (+1305-673 7530; www.bassmuseum.org). Casa Tua, 1700 James Avenue (+1305-673 1010; www.casatualifestyle.com/miami). Equinox, 520 Collins Avenue (+1305-673 1172; www.equinox.com). Garcia’s, 398 NW North River Drive (+1305-375 0765; www.garciasmiami.com). Green Monkey, 1827 Purdy Avenue (+1305-397 8566; www.greenmonkey.com). Jugofresh, Suite 102, 1935 West Avenue (+1786-472 2552; www.jugofresh.com). La Sandwicherie, 229 14th Street (+1305-532 8934; www.lasandwicherie.com). Mandolin, 4312 NE 2nd Avenue (+1305-749 9140; www.mandolinmiami.com). Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink, 130 NE 40th Street (+1305-573 5550; www.michaelsgenuine.com). Red Dot Art Fair, 3011 NE 1st Avenue at the corner of NE 31st Street (+1917-273 8621; www.reddotfair.com). Taschen, 1111 Lincoln Road (+1305-538 6185; www.taschen.com). Vizcaya Museum & Gardens, 3251 S Miami Avenue (+1305-250 9133; www.vizcaya.org). The Webster, 1220 Collins Avenue (+1305-674 7899; www.thewebstermiami.com). Wolfsonian-FIU, 1001 Washington Avenue (+1305-531 1001; www.wolfsonian.org). Wynwood Arts District, 167 NW 25th Street (+1305-695 1600; www.wynwoodmiami.com).
Diane von Furstenberg talks personal taste: Part One
Forty years after she launched her iconic wrap dress, Diane von Furstenberg oversees an empire that includes 97 stores in 55 countries
Forty years after she launched her iconic wrap dress, Diane von Furstenberg oversees an empire that includes 97 stores in 55 countries
My personal style signifier is a gold H Stern chain-link bracelet I wear every day. It is engraved with sutras that are meaningful to me: knowledge, abundance, love, laughter, integrity, harmony, peace and freedom. £19,900;www.hstern.net.
The sight that inspires me is a blood-moon eclipse. I recently got up at 3am to see one of these rare, beautiful events from the deck of Eos, our three-masted Bermuda-rigged sailing yacht. It was a crystal-clear night, so to see the moon that spectacular reddish orange colour was particularly breathtaking.
The last meal that truly impressed me was at The Beatrice Inn in the West Village, sister restaurant to Graydon Carter’s Waverley Inn, where the scene is buzzing and the food is beautifully prepared using only the most seasonal ingredients. 285 W 12th St, New York, NY 10014 (+1917-566 7400; www.thebeatriceinn.com).
An object I would never part with is a gold coin given to me by my father many years ago. It is always with me and during my fashion shows I make sure it is tucked safely inside my shoe. It brings me luck. Everything else I could be parted with; memories are the most special things I possess, and no one can take those away.
A recent “find” is The Andy Warhol Museum in Pittsburgh. I am always discovering new aspects of this comprehensive collection that includes everything from drawings to film, his 1960s pop paintings to his 1980s collaborations with Jean-Michel Basquiat. 117 Sandusky St, Pittsburgh, PA 15212 (+1412-237 8300; www.warhol.org).
The best souvenir I’ve brought home is a pair of spectacular knee-length, embroidered black silk folkloric boots called tsholhams that I bought at a market in Bhutan. I also treasure the brightly coloured mandala given to me by the King and Queen of Bhutan after a magnificent dinner at their palace. It hangs in my office and reminds me of that special trip and their friendship.
In my fridge you’ll always find pomegranates, which I like to eat for breakfast, fresh crudités, as I try to eat raw food as much as possible, quinoa salad and Kor Shots – energy-packed, immunity-boosting little drinks that I swear by and always have on hand. www.korshots.com.
The last item of clothing I added to my wardrobe was a pale grey fleece hoodie from James Perse. It is warm and comfortable and can be worn over everything. I have also added a lovely new assortment of colourful kaftans and pareos to my Eos wardrobe that will be spot-on for summer sailing. James Perse hoodie, £225; www.jamesperse.co.uk. Diane von Furstenberg kaftans, from £313; www.dvf.com.
My favourite room in my house is the studio at Cloudwalk, my home in Connecticut. It is a huge, airy space filled with hundreds of books and an enormous George Nakashima table that serves as my desk. It is my private sanctuary.
The last music I downloaded was Happy and Girl by Pharrell Williams, at the suggestion of my teenage granddaughter Talita, and American singer-songwriter St Vincent’s eponymous album. She is a tremendous talent and has performed during my catwalk shows.
The beauty staples I’m never without are Tracie Martyn’s Firming Serum, a formula that is full of antioxidants and is the only thing I will use on my face; Moroccanoil Clarifying Shampoo, which is very moisturising; and Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream, which is an old favourite. Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream, £26 for 200ml; www.elizabetharden.co.uk. Moroccanoil Clarifying Shampoo, £18.45 for 250ml; www.moroccanoil.com. Tracie Martyn Firming Serum, $185 for 30ml; www.traciemartyn.com.
My favourite websites and apps are Net‑a‑Porter for the latest fashion and Chicago-based Wright for the best in contemporary furniture and design. I also admire Vital Voices, which is an important forum that highlights the work of incredible women from around the globe. For sheer pleasure, I like the Scrabble and FreeCell solitaire apps. www.apple.com/itunes. www.net-a-porter.com.www.vitalvoices.org. www.wright20.com.
Diane von Furstenberg talks personal taste: Part Two
The fashion designer wraps up her compendium of passions and temptations with love letters to London and LA
The fashion designer wraps up her compendium of passions and temptations with love letters to London and LA
My style icon is Marlene Dietrich. Whether on screen or off, she had her own distinct look and often wore masculine clothes to great effect. She was also very courageous and was awarded the US Medal of Freedom and Légion d’Honneur in recognition of her wartime work.
The last thing I bought and loved was a self-portrait by the artist Anh Duong. She is a good friend, and I love the way she explores her relationship with herself and how she engages directly with the viewer through her work. She is a master portraitist and I have been lucky enough to sit for her, too. www.anhduongart.com.
And the things I’m eyeing next are some heritage apple, pear and plum trees for Cloudwalk, in Connecticut. This farm is my escape and I love to plant and garden there.
The people I rely on for personal grooming and wellbeing are Reyad Fritas at Frédéric Fekkai, who colours my hair with henna, and Tracie Martyn for my weekly all-natural facials. I am also very dependent on my personal chef Jane Coxwell, who is a master at creating healthy, delicious meals for my husband and me, as well as for our private parties. Frédéric Fekkai, 4th Floor, 712 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10019 (+1212-753 9500; www.fekkai.com). Jane Coxwell, www.janecoxwell.com. Tracie Martyn, 101 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10003 (+1212-206 7315; www.traciemartyn.com).
An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Bhutan. I went with my dear friend Christian Louboutin and we hiked to various temples, including the spectacular Punakha Dzong. We stayed at Amankora Punakha, a paradise reached by a suspended bridge decorated with colourful prayer flags. This country is so lush and I loved the monasteries, the markets selling beaded handicrafts, the time to meditate and the delicious meals of watermelon and tomato gazpacho and Bhutanese lentil balls. Best of all were the kind people, who made this trip so magical. www.amanresorts.com.
The best gift I’ve given recently was a series of beautiful books to a friend. It included Diana Vreeland Memos: The Vogue Years by her son Alexander Vreeland and Swans: Legends of the Jet Society by Nick Foulkes, which paints a picture of a glamorous, bygone era.
And the best one I’ve received is a silver and diamond pavé bracelet on a dark silk string, designed by Danish jeweller Jannik Olander. It has healing properties and was a birthday present from my son Alexander. For Christmas he gave me a portrait of myself by Takashi Murakami – he’s a great gift giver. Jannik Olander, www.nialaya.com.
If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose London’s Mayfair, because to me that area is London. I love Smythson for diaries and leather goods, Fortnum & Mason for smoked salmon, and Heywood Hill for sourcing books about art and design, as well as the latest fiction. Claridge’s feels like a home from home, as I designed several suites there and the staff are always warm and welcoming. I also love Scott’s for its great balance of delicious seafood and a lively scene. Claridge’s, 49 Brook Street, W1 (020-7629 8860; www.claridges.co.uk). Fortnum & Mason, 181 Piccadilly, W1 (0845-300 1707; www.fortnumandmason.com). Heywood Hill, 10 Curzon Street, W1 (020-7629 0647; www.heywoodhill.com). Scott’s, 20 Mount Street, W1 (020-7495 7309; www.scotts-restaurant.com). Smythson, 40 New Bond Street, W1 (0845-873 2435; www.smythson.com).
he books on my bedside table are now more likely to be on my iPad. I always read several books at once and I am currently enjoying Capital in the Twenty-First Century by Thomas Piketty, Holy Terror: Andy Warhol Close Up by Bob Colacello and A Story Lately Told: Coming of Age in London, Ireland and New York, which is Anjelica Huston’s colourful account of growing up in the 1960s and 1970s.
An indulgence I would never forego is really good dark chocolate. I was raised in Belgium, where chocolate is a part of everyday life, and I never deprive myself of it. One of my favourite brands is Côte d’Or and I have at least a little piece every day. www.cotedor.com.
The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Henri Matisse. He and I share a birthday and I love his exuberant use of colour and shape. I would collect everything, including the beautiful painted paper cut-outs that are currently on view at the Tate Modern. Until September 7 at Tate Modern, Bankside, London SE1 (020-7887 8888; www.tate.org.uk).
If I didn’t live in New York, the city I would live in is Los Angeles. My two children, Tatiana and Alexander, live there and I love the natural light and opportunity to be outdoors all year round. Two of my favourite activities are hiking and swimming and I’d do both every day. I’m also a huge fan of the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (Lacma) and its restaurant, Ray’s, which serves Mediterranean cuisine in an intimate midcentury-modern setting. Other highlights include brunch at The Beverly Hills Hotel, delicious macrobiotic meals at the casual M Café de Chaya and dinner at the atmospheric Chateau Marmont. Chateau Marmont, 8221 Sunset Boulevard, Hollywood (+1323-656 1010; www.chateaumarmont.com). Lacma and Ray’s and Stark Bar, 5905 Wilshire Boulevard, Los Angeles (+1323-857 6180; www.lacma.org). M Café de Chaya, 7119 Melrose Avenue, Hollywood (+1323-525 0588; www.mcafedechaya.com).
If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be an architect or a playwright. I love building and designing things, but I think I would lose a lot of sleep constantly second-guessing my decisions about where to put doors, how to organise layout, flow and so forth. The ability to write a good, well-built play would be another great achievement.
The Dunmore: a blissful bolthole in the Bahamas
A Harbour Island hotel and restaurant that’s a paean to old world glamour
A Harbour Island hotel and restaurant that’s a paean to old world glamour
I have been going to the Bahamas’ Harbour Island – an unspoilt slip of pink sand encircled in turquoise waters – for many years, and thought I had the place pretty well worked out. The Landing is the place to go for great dinners outdoors; the Rock House overlooking the bay is the spot for chic-people watching; and Sip-Sip is the bustling beachfront boîte where lobster quesadillas are the order of the (mid)day. But I must add to this short list of favourites The Dunmore, a boutique hotel and restaurant with a clubby vibe that calls to mind Palm Beach c1960.
The Dunmore has, in fact, been operating since 1963 – first for members, and from 2010 as a stylish bolthole for a broader clientele complete with charming bar, dining room and 15 nautical-chic guest cottages created by Nassau-based interior designer Amanda Lindroth. Vintage rattan furniture sits beside modern Lucite tables and John Robshaw textiles, while outside, bougainvillea and night jasmine line the walkways from the secluded rooms to the central clubhouse. The scene oozes old-world, ocean-hideaway glamour.
A pre-dinner cocktail beneath the slowly swirling fans and beside stacks of art books and clusters of conch shells kicks an evening off in laid-back style. The restaurant is overseen by creative chef Cindy Hutson and her partner Delius Shirley, and menus revolve around Caribbean-inspired dishes that include the delicious local seafood: daily fish ceviches (market price) with citrus juices, fresh ginger and diced red and yellow peppers with a side of plantain chips and housemade guacamole was a favourite, as were lobster cobb salads ($23) and grilled-grouper sandwiches ($19) with yucca fries. A red Thai and kaffir-lime bouillabaisse ($49) with jasmine rice and spice-marinated, roasted West Indian chicken ($33) with a Jamaican kick were also standouts. Freshly made sorbets and warm chocolate beignets made for ideal endings to a meal there on more than one occasion.
Truth be told, I was hard-pressed to eat elsewhere during my stay.
Giambattista Valli talks personal taste: Part One
Giambattista Valli is best known for glamorous gowns that combine intricate embroidery and sharp, modern tailoring
Giambattista Valli is best known for glamorous gowns that combine intricate embroidery and sharp, modern tailoring
My personal style signifier is wearing black from head to toe – my uniform consists of black trousers by APC or Saint Laurent, an American Apparel T-shirt or Commes des Garçons dress shirt and a cashmere sweater – and either my strand of pearls that are a good-luck charm, or a necklace with a Georgian cross that was a gift from my friend Lee Radziwill. American Apparel, www.americanapparel.net. APC, www.apc.fr. Commes des Garçons, www.comme-des-garcons.com. Saint Laurent, www.ysl.com.
The last thing I bought and loved was a hand-held portable LG projector for screening movies on the go. I work non‑stop and watching films is my one escapist pleasure. LG PB60G projector, from about £350; www.lg.com.
And the thing I’m eyeing next is a holiday. I’d like to go back to the Aman hotel in Venice, which is in an exquisitely restored palazzo overlooking the Grand Canal. The rooms are beautiful and the gardens an oasis of calm, but it’s the warm welcome and service that make this place so special and restorative. Palazzo Papadopoli, Calle Tiepolo 1364, 30125 Venice (+39041-270 7333; www.amanresorts.com).
The last music I downloaded was the soundtrack to the Wim Wenders film Pina, but I am open to all kinds of music. I tend to favour funk to wake me up or when I exercise, although I also love classical music. I enjoy listening to whatever moves my soul – or my body – at a particular moment in time.
The last meal that truly impressed me was at Da Adolfo in Positano. It is essentially a little cave on the beach, and I ate the most delicious mozzarella on lemon leaves and linguine with tomatoes and local lobster. The atmosphere in summer is magical and I can still taste the spectacular food. Via Laurito 40, 84017 Positano (+39089-875 022; www.daadolfo.com).
The books on my bedside table are actually in a stack next to my bed, because I like a very austere room without much furniture. Books are my biggest pleasure and I always have at least three on the go. Currently that’s A Cloudy Day in Babylon by Margaret Doody, The Red Book by CG Jung and The Old Garden by South Korean novelist Hwang Sok-Yong.
In my fridge you’ll always find Chateldon mineral water and Shu Uemura Depsea Hydrability masks. I never cook or eat at home, but I like to have these cooling, soothing fabric masks on hand – they work wonders after a late night. Chateldon, www.chateldon.tm.fr. Shu Uemura, £42 for six; www.shuuemura.co.uk.
The best gift I’ve given recently was a trip for four close friends to the Trianon Palace in Versailles, a lovely, secluded hotel. We went for walks around a scenic lake, enjoyed delicious dinners that lasted for hours and slept very well. Boulevard de la Reine 1, 78000 Versailles (+331-3084 5000; www.trianonpalace.com).
And the best one I’ve received recently was a pearl and ruby necklace from a friend who is like a sister to me. She bought it at auction, and it’s the kind of big jewellery I think suits me best. It was a total surprise, which makes it even more special.
The beauty staple I’m never without is my Blenheim Bouquet eau de toilette from Penhaligon’s, which I have worn every day and night for the past 20-plus years. It smells fresh and healthy and puts me in a good mood. £85 for 100ml; www.penhaligons.com.
The site that inspires me is Al Tarfa Lodge in the middle of the Egyptian desert. This sanctuary in the southwestern part of the country is the perfect place to clear the mind. Al Mansura, Dakhla Oasis, New Valley (+2010-0100 1109; www.altarfa.net).
My favourite websites are CNN and AstrologyZone for Susan Miller’s horoscopes, but I tend to use apps more than the web. WeChat is one of my favourites for connecting with friends in Asia and CrossProcess is a fun one that lets you apply colours and filters to photographs. www.astrologyzone.com. www.cnn.com. CrossProcess, www.apple.com/itunes. www.wechat.com.
Giambattista Valli talks personal taste: Part Two
The designer concludes his list of likes with antique kimono fabrics in Tokyo and singing monks in Laos
The designer concludes his list of likes with antique kimono fabrics in Tokyo and singing monks in Laos
My style icon isPablo Picasso, because he was always so full of life and creativity. No one ever thought of him as old; even in a striped T-shirt on the beach he looked like an emperor. And also Maharajah Yeshwant Rao Holkar II, an early-20th-century figure who wore simply tailored white shirts with very bold diamond necklaces. I love big jewellery on men and whenever I wear a tuxedo I pair it with a necklace inspired by this elegant man.
An object I would never part with is my black Cutler and Gross sunglasses. I wear them every morning – even when the skies are grey. £310; www.cutlerandgross.com.
An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Luang Prabang in Laos. I rented a villa with a group of friends in an incredible private sanctuary on the Mekong Estate. We watched the elephants drinking from the river at dawn and I think it might be the most sublime, peaceful place I have ever been. www.mekongestate.com.
And the best souvenir I’ve brought home is the memory of the singing monks in Luang Prabang. They collect alms each morning at dawn and their soothing voices are a constant reminder of that special trip.
An indulgence I would never forego is buying books. I keep them all, and my apartment in Paris looks like a library.
The last things I added to my wardrobe were some Nike trainers. I bought two pairs – one red and one royal blue – at the cool multibrand store Excelsior in Milan. £140; www.nike.com. Excelsior, Galleria del Corso 4, 20100 Milan (+3902-7630 7301; www.excelsiormilano.com).
If I didn’t live in Paris, the city I would live in is Istanbul, which to me is the most exciting place in the world. I love its combination of European and Asian cultures and find the views of the Bosphorus, the delicious food, the Turkish baths, the dancing, the Grand Bazaar, the rich coffee – everything – inspiring. I would never tire of living there. The Four Seasons Hotel at Sultanahmet, in the heart of the old city, would be a lovely place to call home and I particularly adore Kizkulesi, an amazing restaurant in a small tower in the middle of the strait off the Asiatic shore. The Four Seasons Hotel, Tevkifhane Sokak 1, 34110 Sultanahmet-Eminönü (+90212-402 3000; www.fourseasons.com). Kizkulesi, Üsküdar Salacak Mevkii, 34668 Üsküdar (+90216-342 4747; www.kizkulesi.com.tr).
The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is the Cuban-born Félix González-Torres, whose footprints-in-sand photographs I love. But I couldn’t just collect the work of one artist; I like diversity and would want a wide range of pieces by Andy Warhol, Francis Bacon, Mario Schifano and some ceramics by Lucio Fontana.
Among the people I rely on for personal grooming and wellbeing is David Mallet for haircuts in his beautiful salon that feels more like an apartment. He is a former fashion-show stylist who I’ve known for years, so he knows exactly what I like. Deepu Yogi, who comes to my home for pranamaya yoga sessions, helps to keep me in balance, and the facials at Biologique Recherche are wonderfully hydrating and relaxing. Biologique Recherche, Avenue des Champs-Elysées 32, 75008 Paris (+331-4118 9684; www.biologique-recherche.com). David Mallet, Rue Notre Dame des Victoires 14, 75002 Paris (+331-4020 0023; www.david-mallett.com). Deepu Yogi, +336-7937 0540.
My favourite room in my house is the master bathroom, because it has beautiful light and views of the garden. It’s a peaceful space with a fireplace, English fixtures, pale-blue Farrow & Ball walls and lots of neutral-coloured stone.
If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose Aoyama in Tokyo, because it is so eclectic and full of energy. The Comme des Garçons store is amazing, not just because of the clothes but because the shop assistants are all so brilliant and entertaining. I also enjoy wandering through Isetan, a unique department store with an incredible food hall; shopping for antique kimono fabrics – not at any shop in particular; and picking up housewares and knick-knackery at Tokyu Hands in Shibuya. Comme des Garçons, 5-2-1 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-Ku 107-0062 (+813-3406 3951; www.comme-des-garcons.com). Isetan, 3-14-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-Ku 160-0022 (+813-3225 2514; www.isetan.co.jp). Tokyu Hands, 12-18 Udagawacho, Shibuya 150-0042 (+813-5489 5111; www.tokyu-hands.co.jp).
If I weren’t doing what I do,I would be a psychologist. I feel I play this role every day anyway, so I think I’d be a natural. People fascinate me.
Checking Into London's New Hotels
LONDON – There are hotel towns and then there are hotel towns, and London is at the top of my list as the city that gets the hospitality thing just right. From crisp linens and piping hot breakfasts to the kindest, most capable staff, London hotels set the bar high. And while they've traditionally been a tad fusty (think leaky — but charming! — showers and plenty of overstuffed chintz chairs), they've also provided top-notch service and hefty doses of old world charm.
The new entrants into the competitive London hotels scene may be are all over the map stylistically, from baroque charm to state-of-the-art everything, but they still retain that common theme of excellence. By the way, we're taking liberties with how we define "new," as some may be a year or two old by now. But all are certainly boutiques.
Ace Hotel London
100 Shoreditch High St., Shoreditch; +44-20-7613-9800
Specs: Everything is cooler in Shoreditch, and that includes the hotels. The latest addition to the East End is über cool, like the original Ace outposts in Portland, Seattle, and New York. If your preferred style is grown-up grunge, The Ace makes for a great jumping off point to the city, local galleries, and the incredible local restaurant scene, which includes The Clove Club and Hawksmoor.
Pluses: The lobby scene is vibrant and buzzing with the energy that comes from a fashion-forward, tech, and design-minded clientele. The staff are laid-back and friendly, clad in John Smedley sweaters and Converse trainers. As one might expect from a Pacific Northwest-based company, there is an excellent cafe serving Square Mile Coffee Roasters' best and a juice bar. The happening, in-house restaurant, Hoi Polloi, serves the kind of delicious burgers, inventive sandwiches, and cakes and fancies you actually want to eat at midnight. But the biggest sell is the price point: Rooms are reasonable by London standards. The whole happy-hipster vibe just clicks. Great value for money.
Minuses: Rooms are a bit minimalist (not in a chic, white way) and feel a bit like you're staying in a friend's first flat. Patchwork quilts (albeit by a French design firm), industrial plastic crates, and a slightly gloomy palette (no one needs grey paint in London) add to a slightly depressing effect. The hotel nails the amenities to the wall (refillable jars, all very sustainable, are not for the taking), which lends a gym-like feel to the bathing experience.
Unique Selling Point: Bespoke bicycles are on offer and locally sourced minibars feature killer crisps and crazy things like Pot Noodles that you'd never buy for yourself. The energy at Ace is invigorating, as is knowing that at any moment someone might just bust out a Hacky Sack.
Rates: Standard Double rooms start at $205 per night. Click here for reservations.
Rosewood London
252 High Holborn, Holborn; +44-20-7781-8888
Specs: This 1914 Edwardian Belle Epoque gem in a former insurance company office building has had a $130-million makeover, and it shows to spectacular effect. There are soaring domes, a grand Pavonazzo marble staircase that rises up seven stories to a massive cupola, and Premier Suites grand enough to host a sizable wedding party.
Pluses: The courtyard entrance feels like some sort of Parisian sanctuary. The lobby is filled with books and interesting art (even fancy gents nod off on the sofas). The sumptuous room details (minibars stocked with select Scotches, N'espresso machines, favorable bathroom lighting) add to the overall luxe effect. Incredibly high ceilings, a vibrant lobby bar, the deliciously stocked Delicatessen that opens onto the High Street, and great fitness facilities (still not the norm in the U.K.) make Rosewood worth the detour.
Minuses: The Holborn location is a bit dodgy, although the cheerful concierge spun it as "where the City meets the West End." This is a Mayfair hotel experience nowhere near Mayfair, so you'll need to familiarize yourself with the Piccadily line or enlist one of the hotel's Jaguars-for-hire to get around in style.
Unique Selling Point: The Grand Manor House Wing is accessed via private entrance, features six bedrooms and more than 6,000 square feet of sitting space — not to mention its own postcode (literally). Another differentiatator: General manager Michael Bonsor hails from Claridge's, so no detail is overlooked.
Rates: Premier King rooms start at $690 per night. Click here for reservations.
The London Edition
10 Berners St., Fitzrovia; +44-20-7781-0000
Specs: The impressive Fitzrovia spot is a collaboration between Marriot and perennially hip hotelier, Ian Schrager. (Read Fathom's interview with Ian.) I went in a hater (I'm ashamed to admit it), but this space — with its soaring and meticulously restored ceilings, walnut-clad rooms, and staff from Claridge's and The Sanderson — is firing on all cylinders. Bonus: Le Labo amenities abound.
Pluses: The "lifestyle hotel" is a great respite, especially for business travelers who need connectivity and proximity to central London. The rooms may have a spare aesthetic, but the public spaces (by hot designers Yabu Pushelberg) are swaddled in warm velvet and soft leather, complete with a roaring fire and billiards table. Another big plus is the location: The Edition is a mash-up of five Georgian townhouses in a tree-lined area.
Minuses: Although it's been primped and boutique'd, there's something — be it ever so slight — that is hard to shake off about the mass Marriott brand, especially for indie-all-the-way travelers. It is also a tad slick, but if nightclubs and dark, atmospheric bars are your thing, then you have truly arrived.
Unique Selling Point: Food and beverage. There are multiple bars including the expansive, humming Lobby Bar, as well as Punch Room, a fun, reservations-only grotto that serves drinks from cauldrons. This is not your grandfather's fumoir. Stunning, art-filled restaurant Berners Tavern is the creation of Michelin-starred Jason Atherton and features best-of-British basics like prawns and dressed crab and a proper Sunday roast lunch.
Rates: Deluxe rooms start at $615 per night. Click here for reservations.
The Milestone Hotel
1 Kensington Court, Kensington; +44-20-7917-1000
Specs: Location, location, location! This Kensington bolthole wins for its proximity to Kensington Gardens (many rooms overlook the park and into the Royal Apartments), the Ken High Street tube station, and Whole Foods down the street (where you'll stock the mini bar).
Pluses: The regal, 19th-century Milestone — with its red brick façade and traditional flower boxes — feels almost like a home stay. You'll be warmly greeted by name upon every return, sometimes with a glass of Champagne. It's quintessential Olde England, with plenty of chintz, dark red and green fabrics, and sporting art on the walls. But the bathrooms are modern, the rooms are stocked with international fashion and design magazines, and multiple ports and sockets make working a breeze.
The food is surprisingly good. Cozy Stables Bar (which looks like something straight out of a Ralph Lauren ad) serves excellent club sandwiches at all hours. The more formal Cheneston's is a magnet for the Sunday lunch crowd. And if you don’t fancy traditional Brit fare, the best Lebanese food (Randa) and culinary mecca Clarke's are just around the corner.
Minuses: Rooms are pricey for the square footage, and you won't find a minimalist aesthetic but an exuberant one. Just revel in what English hotels do best — provide excellent, unfailingly polite service, as well as crisp bed linens and warm bath towels. The most nitpicky minus ever: they need new rubbish bins in the bathrooms. The current models are the size of thimbles and overflow frequently. If that's the worst complaint, then this member of the Red Carnation Hotel chain is doing something right.
USP: The small resistance pool in the gym spa is rare for a hotel in this area, and provides a refreshing escape on hot summer days, particularly for kids. No request is too strange: If something needs to be messengered, they'll send their own person for no more than the cost of the taxi ride. Another bonus are the six two-bedroom apartments with kitchenettes for families or extended stays. Apartment 6 (The Rooftop) has an outdoor terrace and a washer/dryer.
Posada Puerto Bemberg: jungle chic in Argentina
A remote hideaway from which to explore lesser-known waterfalls and literally switch off
A remote hideaway from which to explore lesser-known waterfalls and literally switch off
Off the beaten track – quite literally – in the jungle near the famed waterfalls of Iguazú in Argentina, you’ll find the 14-room-and-suite property Posada Puerto Bemberg. Situated in the remote Province of Misiones at the confluence of the Paraná and Iguazú rivers, the Posada offers a rewarding spot from which to explore the area’s lesser-known waterfalls – particularly the stunning Saltos del Moconá, oft overlooked in favour of the Devil’s Throat gorge in nearby Iguazú National Park.
Originally built in the 1940s as a stopping point en route for the dramatic falls that could only be accessed via the Paraná River below, Posada Puerto Bemberg (first and second pictures) has been reborn as a rustic-chic guesthouse with plenty of local colour. The original feel has been preserved – and this starts with the approach down a stone path.
No sooner had I walked over the threshold than a knowledgeable conservationist appeared by my side and began talking through the day’s myriad options: guided hikes along the property’s thickly forested trails, bike riding, visits to neighbouring yerba-mate and tea plantations and bird watching were only the initial few. I decided to ease into the subtropical experience with a swim in the hotel’s secluded sandstone pool (third picture), surrounded by atmospheric monkey puzzle trees and wild toucans.
The rooms in this colonial-style villa are on the sparse side but feature high ceilings, locally carved furnishings and spacious beds with brightly coloured llama quilts. Air conditioning made my room a sanctuary during my sweltering stay, and no television and minibar, and spotty WiFi and mobile coverage meant that my room was an excellent place for switching off, while the deep tub was a glorious way to unwind at day’s end.
One of the real highlights here are the meals (lucky, as there is nowhere else to venture to, the hotel is so remote), which are served in the great living room that is the hub of the hotel. Guests – there were about 10 during my recent visit – come here to check email, sip a cocktail, play games (Pictionary was popular during my stay) and read one of the library’s 2,500 titles, many of which are focused on the local flora and fauna. Our group enjoyed leisurely feasts of excellent Argentine steak with papas fritas and salads made with vegetables from the surrounding organic gardens. The extensive cave includes over 1,600 bottles of wine, including local Argentinean Malbecs that pair well with chef Ruperto Ocampo’s daily changing, meaty menus.
After leaving the Posada Puerto Bemberg’s 1,000 acres to explore other highlights of the area, I felt as if I’d had it all right there on the property: dramatic falls for swimming, butterflies in vibrant shades of purple and gold, hummingbirds and delicious cuisine. There is even a picturesque chapel – circa 1930 – on the premises that affords dramatic views of the river and Paraguay in the distance. It’s a marvel of a jungle microcosm that I wouldn’t have missed for the world.
Fundadores Bemberg, N3370 Puerto Libertad, Misiones Province, Argentina (+54375-749 6500; www.puertobemberg.com).
Robert Eddy: model-yacht maker extraordinaire
Bespoke commissions with intricate fittings and ultra-precise detailing
Bespoke commissions with intricate fittings and ultra-precise detailing
Both sailors and naval-history lovers flock to Robert Eddy – a model-maker based in Camden, Maine – to create versions of their favourite yachts, schooners and even simple skiffs. Eddy is the consummate artist: part draftsman, part sculptor and also a talented jeweller by training, whose precise hand creates the intricate fittings that set his custom boats apart.
Commissioning an Eddy model is a straightforward but lengthy process, with most projects requiring one to two years of work and up to 4,000 man-hours to complete. After a site visit to the owner’s yacht or sailboat (where Eddy photographs, films and takes precise measurements to complement original plans), he works closely with the boat’s architect and interior designers to create a perfectly scaled version using only the finest, sturdiest materials that will stand the test of time. It is his sensitivity to a client’s wishes – his roster of business titans includes Tom Perkins, founder of Silicon Valley venture-capital powerhouse Kleiner Perkins Caufield Byers, Jim Clark, founder of Netscape, and Lands’ End founder, Gary Comer – that keeps his detailed projects so much in demand.
Working with partner Reuben Brown, Eddy uses cutting-edge technology – CAD graphics, 2D laser-cutting and 3D printing of parts for lost-wax casting – to mould and sculpt topsides and hulls from hardwoods such as mahogany. The boats’ undersides are often carved from basswood sourced from linden trees and models are finished with durable AwlGrip marine paints. Deck details, such as diamond-studded winches (an Eddy signature), anchors, cleats and stanchions, are made using a wide array of precious metals, with white gold the material of choice for mimicking stainless steel, and green gold employed to simulate weathered-bronze propellers. No detail is overlooked and Eddy’s commissions – most of which measure 18-58in in length and range in price from $60,000 to upwards of $200,000 – also include such precise details as compasses and complicated nautical charts.
Recent projects have included the Perini Navi modern clipper yacht Maltese Falcon (second picture); Windcrest (third picture), a 98ft Fontaine-designed ketch; the Herreshoff schooner, Mariette; and Kalevala, a custom Swan 60 with an extended transom. Other yacht miniature models, such as the 154ft ketch Scheherazade, the Andromeda la Dea and Atlantide (first picture), are examples of the artist’s finest and most complex work, with the latter taking more than 5,500 hours to execute.
In addition to handcrafting each replica, Eddy also works with a master cabinetmaker to select woods, finishes and inlays before collaborating on a bespoke display case for each of his objets d’art. Finished models, cases and, in some instances, platform tables, are then sent via an art handler anywhere in the world, with Eddy personally overseeing each installation.
“My real challenge is reducing huge yachts to a scale that makes every detail viewable,” explains Eddy. “If you do things too small, they just become cute objects – not sculptures that celebrate maritime history. My clients want conversation pieces that connect them to their boats and their passion for the sea.”
+1207-236 6579; www.yachtmodels.com.
Fueguia 1833: a beguiling Buenos Aires perfumery
This fragranced atelier makes its mark with uniquely South American scents
This fragranced atelier makes its mark with uniquely South American scents
A recent trip to Buenos Aires yielded many treasures: a stay at boutique bolthole Hub Porteño in the chic Recoleta area; a fondness for empanadas; and the discovery of niche perfumery and candle atelier Fueguia 1833. I wandered into this lovely laboratory, just steps from my hotel door, in a jet-lagged haze and was overwhelmed by a profusion of South American scents.
Founded in 2010 by Julian Bedel and Ama Amoedo, this dark, decidedly sexy boutique was a labour of love – no detail or finish has been rushed or overlooked. Sleek recycled-glass jars dominate the room, and some 50-plus varieties create a quasi art installation. Low lighting, maps of Patagonia and simple wooden packaging add to the sumptuous elegance.
Perfumes are grouped into seven collections, including Destinos, Personajes and Fábula Fauna, but bespoke fragrances are also a key ingredient at Fueguia. All of Bedel’s creations incorporate flora and fauna from Patagonia, which he is happy to alter (or create anew) to suit a client’s wishes.
Castillos is just one scent in the Destinos collection and it masterfully mixes notes of jasmine, tuberose and the Argentinean favourite, mate, while Pampa Húmeda is meant to evoke the “green, clean” feel that occurs after a good downpour and incorporates hints of rosemary and eucalyptus. Other highlights include Darwin and Humboldt – from the citrusy Personajes range – as well as Jacarandá, a floral concoction with undertones of bergamot and cedar moss. Almost as compelling as the fragrances are the names – reflecting global travel, explorers and plant species. Fragrances are available in 30ml absoluto (£106), 30ml agua de perfume (£58) and 100ml perfume (£158), as well as in 15ml roll-on (£55), and each comes in a beautiful handmade wooden box (second picture).
Vegetable-based candles (third picture) are no also-rans and I purchased the Amalia Primavera (£78) – with its hints of floral ambergris and jasmine – although spicier versions, including the Noel with clove and grapefruit, also enticed.
The final element of the shop that I loved was its commitment to the environment and social programmes in South America. Forty-two per cent of the product price of all perfumes, candles and room fragrances is donated to Help Argentina, an organisation dedicated to funding educational projects throughout the country. Such social consciousness makes these scents all the sweeter.