Rodin’s moisture-rich Olio Lusso

Eleven essential oils in one small-batch skin salvation

As we emerged at last from winter, my skin was doing little skips. Thanks to the combined effects of an especially harsh New York cold patch and perhaps a little too much holiday sun (I know better, but it’s that wonderful vitamin D), my complexion has been left dull and rather lizard-like. But what’s got me through it is a recommendation from a clued-up-on-beauty friend: Rodin’s Olio Lusso (£97 for 30ml, pictured), aka “luxury oil”. This elegant moisturising serum is made from 11 essential oils sourced from plants and botanicals, with not an acid, perfume or chemical preservative in sight.

Developed by former fashion editor and stylist Linda Rodin, Olio Lusso face oil has garnered an ardent following since its launch five years ago. First mixed and bottled in Rodin’s Chelsea flat, it is now produced in larger batches in a boutique New Jersey factory to keep up with client demand.

There are many elixirs on the market that claim to repair dry, damaged skin but they often clog my pores with their thick emollients, or they sting because of some chemical ingredient. By contrast, I found Olio Lusso to be instantly soothing: its combination of jasmine, calendula flower, rosehip and sweet-almond oils is naturally calming.  

Of the other ingredients, one of the most unusual – and certainly most powerful – is neroli, an essential oil that is packed with vitamin C and helps to promote elasticity. Meanwhile, the fatty acids found in evening primrose oil, the anti-inflammatory properties of the Scandinavian arnica plant and the vitamins A and D found in apricot-seed oil, each make my weary visage perk up and say, “Thank you”.

Christian Liaigre talks personal taste: Part One

Christian Liaigre has designed beautifully spare interiors and furniture for Karl Lagerfeld and Larry Gagosian, as well as for restaurants and hotels, including The Mercer in New York and Hôtel Costes in Paris

My personal style signifier is a pair of handmade tortoiseshell glasses that I designed for myself and wear every day. I have worn this same style for the past 20 years; I like the simple shape and natural finish. I have them made at the Maison Bonnet workshop in Paris. 5 Rue des Petits Champs, Paris 75001 (+331-4296 4635; www.maisonbonnet.com).

The last thing I bought and loved was a work of art by the French painter and sculptor Richard Texier. It is a colourful mixed-media picture of the mineral kingdom done with the aid of a computer. I bought it directly from the artist, whose work I admire immensely. www.richardtexier.com.

The sea-view terrace at Christian Liaigre’s house on St Barths | Image: Mark Seelen

And the thing I’m eyeing next is a Land Rover Defender, so that I can take my son to our country home on Ile de Ré or to the horse country near La Rochelle at weekends. I like this car for both its functionality and aesthetics; I have my eye on a beautiful metallised-brown model. www.landrover.com.

A recent “find” is the restaurant Le Relais Louis XIII in Paris. It feels provincial and intimate, much like dining at the home of a country doctor. My friend, the photographer Peter Lindbergh, took me there and I particularly love the lobster ravioli and the chef’s delicious organic vegetables. 8 Rue des Grands Augustins, Paris 75006 (+331-4326 7596; www.relaislouis13.fr).

The last item of clothing I added to my wardrobe was a double-cashmere sports jacket by Berluti. It is a deep-green-khaki colour with a yellow lining and it is simple, warm and beautifully made. 14 Rue de Sèvres, Paris 75007 (+331-4048 2860; www.berluti.com).

The last music I downloaded was Alchemya by flamenco guitarist Juan Carmona, Niño de Almadén’s Maestros del Cante Flamenco and Pepe Martínez’s The Spanish Guitar, Flamenco Masters. Clearly I love Spanish music.

An object I would never part with is the penknife I carry with me everywhere. It is very reassuring to have one in my pocket, as I can always cut a flower or sharpen a pencil. Mine is made from tortoiseshell and silver and comes from the small town of Nogent in northeastern France.

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is the Vallespir region of the Pyrénées in northern Catalonia. It is a wonderful, unspoiled landscape full of green valleys covered with cork oak trees. Juan Gris and Picasso lived in nearby Céret and there are many interesting Roman thermal baths throughout the beautiful countryside.

A Land Rover Defender 110, from £23,095

The site that inspires me is the sea – particularly the view of it from my homes in St Barths and Ile de Ré. Nothing compares to the iodine-packed Atlantic Ocean; the colours and light are so energising.

The best gift I’ve received recently was a very refined, 2m-long calligraphy print by the South Korean artist Suh Se-ok. I had tea with him and this work was a present from the Samsung family to thank me for a project I did for them in South Korea. It now hangs in a special place over the central staircase in my home.

Ligne St Barth Deep Sea Cream, €1,350 for 40ml

The best souvenir I’ve brought home is a sculpted, dark-wood Basque walking stick called a makila. The top part has a hand-grip that can be pulled off, revealing a hidden blade that was traditionally used as a defence against wolves. I keep it in my bedroom to remind me of a family trip to the Pyrénées.

The grooming staple I’m never without is Deep Sea Cream by Ligne St Barth. It is incredibly moisturising and smells great. €1,350 for 40ml in a limited-edition Murano-glass flacon (refill €590); www.lignestbarth.com.

My favourite websites are almost non-existent. I tend not to use the web much, but when I do it is the Financial Times and Le Figaro for news, and Moma PS1 for looking at contemporary art. www.ft.com; www.lefigaro.fr; www.momaps1.org.

Christian Liaigre talks personal taste: Part Two

The designer concludes his list of likes with vitamins from Laboratoire Lescuyer, London and a Basque pâté terrine

Christian Liaigre at his home in Paris | Image: Lea Crespi

My style icon is the painter Cy Twombly. He was a wise and elegant gentleman who seamlessly mixed classical sculpture with very modern pieces of art. Both his work and personal style inspire me because of their sophisticated simplicity.

Cy Twombly | Image: Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images

My favourite room in my house is the sitting room because of its authentic 18th-century decorative wood panelling and gilding. Vintage chandeliers from the Porte de Clignancourt flea market are juxtaposed with contemporary photographs and deer antlers from La Rochelle. This room is the perfect backdrop for the modern furniture I designed for the space.

The last meal that truly impressed me was at Ya Lamai, a Thai restaurant in the 3rd arrondissement. The owner, Rose, is a very particular person and a wonderful cook. I had a delicious dessert called tako, a unique combination of coconut and mung-bean flour. 16 Rue du Petit Thouars, Paris 75003 (+331-8356 5500; www.yalamai.com).

The books on my bedside table are Plague and Cholera, a story about the second world war by Patrick Deville; Repulse Bay by Olivier Lebé; and Adventures on the Wine Route by Kermit Lynch, which recounts the author’s experiences across Bordeaux and the Loire and Rhône valleys.

The best gift I’ve given recently was a small piece of whalebone to my son, Léonard. I gave it to him as a souvenir of our holiday in St Barths. Whales often pass through the warm waters there and this carved keepsake fits perfectly in the palm of his six-year-old hand.

In my fridge you’ll always find a Basque pâté terrine with red chilli peppers and a Bordeaux red wine that I like to serve to my friends as an apéritif. You will also find milk, cheese and mangoes, which my son currently loves. La Grande Epicerie de Paris, Le Bon Marché, 38 Rue de Sèvres, Paris 75007 (+331-4439 8100; www.lagrandeepicerie.com).

An indulgence I would never forego is a good, relaxing massage. In Paris, I go to the spa at the Hôtel Costes and when I am in St Barths I like the outdoor treatments at Le Sereno. This is a little time just for me. Hôtel Costes, 239-241 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Paris 75001 (+331-4244 5000; www.hotelcostes.com). Le Sereno, Anse Maréchal, Saint Barthélemy 97133 (+335-9029 8300; www.lesereno.com).

The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is the British painter Peter Doig. He lives and works in the Caribbean and his pictures illustrate a style of life on the edge of fantasy. His paintings also show that we can have multiple perspectives on the same thing. I think he is a modern Gauguin.

St James’s Park, London | Image: Getty Images/Lonely Planet Images

If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose the area where I live in the 7th arrondissement. I moved there 35 years ago because it is such a calm and beautiful part of Paris. We are surrounded by gardens and small mansions and we’re just 200m from Saint-Germain-des-Près and the Ecole des Beaux-Arts. I like the mix of antique shops, art galleries, wonderful cheese shops, such as Barthélemy, the book store La Hune and pastry and cake shops, including Pierre Hermé and Pâtisserie des Rêves. I also love Le Bon Marché for all sorts of food and household items – it’s the French equivalent of Harrods. This neighbourhood has the unique Rive Gauche spirit that is relaxed and sophisticated at the same time. Barthélemy, 51 Rue de Grenelle (+331-4548 5675). La Hune, 170 Boulevard Saint-Germain (+331-4548 3585). Le Bon Marché, 24 Rue de Sèvres (+331-4439 8000; www.lebonmarche.com). L’Ecole des Beaux-Arts, 14 Rue Bonaparte (+331-4703 5000; www.beauxartsparis.com). Pâtisserie des Rêves, 93 Rue du Bac (+331-4284 0082; www.lapatisseriedesreves.com). Pierre Hermé, 72 Rue Bonaparte (+331-4354 4477; www.pierreherme.com).

The people I rely on for personal grooming and wellbeing are the research team at Laboratoire Lescuyer in Aytré in southwestern France. They create the best mixtures of natural vitamins and minerals that help me stay energised and in good health. All their products are based on seaweed, minerals and a variety of herbs (+335-4656 3048; www.laboratoire-lescuyer.com).

Pierre Hermé, Paris | Image: Pierre Hermé Paris

If I didn’t live in Paris, the city I would live in is London. I love the creativity and energy of the people. I also find the British to be polite and cheerful and their city has the most beautiful parks in Europe, including Regent’s Park and St James’s Park. I’d very much like to live in Mayfair, especially in the red brick houses on Mount Street and in the surrounding area. I’d frequent Scott’s, The Arts Club, and 5 Hertford Street – just a few of my favourite places that all offer delicious food and a lively scene. 5 Hertford Street, 2-5 Hertford Street (020-7408 2100; www.5hertfordstreet.co.uk). The Arts Club, 40 Dover Street (020-7499 8581; www.theartsclub.co.uk). Scott’s, 20 Mount Street (020-7495 7309; www.scotts-restaurant.com).

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be an artist, which is very close to being a decorator. I love to paint, particularly with oils.

Follain: a natural-beauty boutique in Boston

Eco chic for face, body and hair

When it comes to beauty products, I am by no means a devout user of environmentally friendly, ethically sourced products that are free from preservatives, colours and other unsavoury substances. I simply want the creams, cleansers and cosmetics that work most effectively, and if they happen to be natural, well then, so much the better. But I recently found a boutique – in Boston – that offers the perfect combination of good-for-environment brands and good-for-you results.

Follain – a Gaelic word meaning “healthy, wholesome and sound” – was opened last summer by skincare enthusiast Tara Foley, on a tree-lined street in Boston’s South End. The area is home to interesting shops, but her light-filled beauty emporium really stands out for its carefully curated selection of some 30-plus American-made natural and organic beauty products. In addition to the greatest hits of “clean” care, the space has been designed – using spare white marble and tile finishes throughout – to encourage experimentation with the products. An enormous double-basin sink that looks straight out of Provence is the centrepiece of one room, and thick, stone countertops invite customers to gather and learn about the latest toners and scrubs.

“We encourage our customers to select the best products for their skin type, rather than sticking with a certain brand,” says Foley. My re-education started with my face, and I was introduced to such Follain bestsellers as Amber Blue’s Anti-Aging Serum ($56), a Shamanuti Seaweed Toner ($28) and a thick Intensive Repair Balm by Tammy Fender ($130) that worked immediate wonders on my cracked, winter-weary hands.

Until recently, many of Follain’s products were only available in spas – RICA’s Body Butter ($36) and Soapwalla’s Body Oil ($28) to name two – and while I couldn’t get over the hurdle of all-natural deodorant (Soapwalla’s version, $14, is meant to be terrific), Foley almost convinced me, so fervent is her belief in these hand-selected goods. I walked away from my visit with bottles of Rahua’s Classic shampoo ($32) and conditioner ($34) and each provided an ever so lightly scented, silky finish that has proved to work just as well for my husband’s hair as my own thick, colour-treated mane.

Cosmetics are the hardest switch of all – I tend to be brand loyal out of sheer laziness – but Ilia’s Lip Conditioner ($24) with just a hint of colour and RMS Beauty’s Living Luminizer ($38)were all particularly tempting.In addition to all of this product goodness, Follain embraces the environment by offering select products (liquid hand and body soaps, for example) that are available for refill (second picture), in an effort to cut down on the immense plastic waste generated by bottles.

For those seeking artisanal products sans synthetic chemicals, Follain is a cheerful one-stop shop – whether in person or online.

Oyyo: cotton dhurries with contemporary cool

An online cache of handwoven Indian rugs with serious Scandi panache

Simple yet bold prints and patterns are the hallmark of Oyyo, a Stockholm-based design studio that produces beautiful cotton dhurries for its eponymous e-shop. And while the carpets are handcrafted in India using centuries-old techniques and locally sourced vegetable dyes, each has a thoroughly modern sensibility that is expressed through contemporary hues and minimalist designs.

Founded in 2011 by Lina Zedig and Marcus Ahrén, Oyyo’s graphic rugs are handwoven near Jodhpur, and as such, are subject to slight variations in size (be prepared for 2cm to 5cm differences from the dimensions ordered) and colour (due to the plant dyes that can fade over time). In short, each dhurrie is a work of art – so slight imperfections are to be expected and even celebrated.

The website features a tightly edited selection of rugs with ethereal names such as Never Ending Story, Labyrinth and Noto, which have been photographed in dramatic desert settings, and are also shown in close up so that the interested buyer can examine details – knots, edging, construction, finishes – that are particular to each style.

Brick (available in four sizes; €520-€1,890, first picture) recalls traditional Indian textiles, but is infused with a Scandinavian sensibility. A soft colour palette – dusty pink, light tangerine and muted cream tones – make this rug a neutral piece, while the boldly graphic Noto (second picture) features vibrant-azure and sapphire-blue tones. This style is perhaps the most eye-catching on the site and is available in five standard sizes ranging from 80cm x 140cm (€520) to 200cm x 300 cm (€2,790), but it can also be custom ordered in other dimensions.

Oyyo’s flat-weave designs are both chic and entirely practical, and each is meant for everyday use, which means they are washable, too.

Atelier Courbet: downtown design chic in NYC

An inspiringly offbeat mélange of old craftsmanship and fresh imagination

Set in a 19th-century carriage house, Atelier Courbet, a new shop-cum-gallery in SoHo, is a paean to offbeat contemporary design made by new artisans using old-world techniques. The slightly obscure mélange – a yellow limited-edition, hand-stitched buffalo-leather bicycle ($16,500, seen in second picture), designed by the singer Pharrell Williams and crafted by Domeau and Pérès, beside art-installation-esque porcelain chalices by Andrea Branzi for Sèvres ($3,500), and a subtle yet striking grey crystal Apollo table lamp (from $1,195) by Cristallerie Royale de Saint-Louis – appears to be anything but off-putting, as was evident on my recent visit as people milled about excitedly.

Founder and creative director Melanie Courbet honed her aesthetic while collaborating with luxury brands such as LVMH, and is now tuning her attention to showcasing the fine craftsmanship of storied producers with heritage clout but modern sensibility – such as Sèvres, Puiforcat, Cristallerie Royale de Saint-Louis and centuries-old Japanese textile maker Hosoo.

One of Atelier Courbet’s most unique offerings is the upholstered leather work by Domeau & Pérès, a Parisian firm helmed by two Hermès veterans – one a master saddle maker, the other an upholsterer – who launched their own venture. Their sculptural Bouroullec desk ($13,500), designed by Erwan and Ronan Bouroullec as a tribute to Jean Prouvé’s Compas desk, pays homage to the midcentury designer’s work through solid oak and butter-soft lambskin. The playful Bumper bed (from $28,000) is a collaboration between Domeau & Pérès and designer Marc Newson, and offers a grown-up take on the traditional futon, complete with pebbled leather, and is available to order in white, sand or chocolate with a bold orange stripe.

A selection of chic games includes a chrome and camel-leather-clad Bonzini foosball table ($8,200), again made by Domeau & Pérès, and a limited-edition backgammon set by Puiforcat ($28,000), carved from Macassar ebony and sycamore, and with sterling-silver pieces. A rosewood and stainless-steel knife set ($4,600), designed by Gabriele Pezzini and Michelin-starred chef Pierre Gagnaire, looked almost too lovely to be used, while I coveted Puiforcat’s simple champagne beakers ($860 each, third picture). The shape and detailing of these vessels is meant to keep fizz at an ideal temperature, and each is engraved with a guilloche pattern that makes the liquid more effervescent.

The old world meets new at Atelier Courbet, a shop that just may be 2014’s downtown design destination.

Larry Gagosian talks personal taste: Part Two

Parisian museums, crew cuts and a JK Rowling novel round off the gallery owner’s style file

Larry Gagosian at his home in Easthampton | Image: Dylan Coulter

My style icon is Gianni Agnelli. He was a dear friend and everything about the way he lived his life was incredible, from his impeccable dress sense – which often included beautiful suits paired with ties worn slightly askew or even a pair of hiking boots – and his Mediterranean yachting adventures aboard the Knut Reimer-designed Agneta to his business acumen. I aspire to his lifestyle but fall miserably short.

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Athens. I was so glad to see this beautiful city come through a tumultuous time and look vibrant again. I stayed just outside the centre at the magnificent Arion Resort & Spa, where my room was just 10 feet from the sea. 40 Apollonos, Astir Palace Resort, 16671 Vouliagmeni, Athens (+3021-0890 2000; www.arionresortathens.com).

And the best souvenir I’ve brought home is a book from the Beyeler Foundation in Basel. Ernst Beyeler: A Passion for Art is a series of interviews by Christopher Mory that really illustrate this collector’s devotion to art. It was a gift from my friend [director of the Beyeler Foundation] Sam Keller, which makes it even more special. Baselstrasse 101, CH-4125 Riehen, Basel (+4161-645 9700; www.fondationbeyeler.ch).

Gianni Agnelli | Image: Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images

An indulgence I would never forego is the expensive haircut I get about once a fortnight at John Frieda, across the street from my New York gallery. I could save money by walking a few blocks to a barber, but I like the hustle and bustle of a salon. Mariko keeps my very short hair in good order. 30 East 76th Street, New York, NY 10021 (+1212-879 1000; www.johnfrieda.com).

The last meal that truly impressed me was at Masa in New York. The setting and the food were fantastic and I think this is one of the best restaurants anywhere in the world. Chef Masa is a friend and he takes incredible care of everyone who dines here. His cuisine is always quite varied – he’ll have a little langoustine, a mushroom risotto, some delicious Wagyu with truffles – and it is the unexpected mix that makes eating here exciting. The sushi is also beyond spectacular. 10 Columbus Circle, New York, NY 10019 (+1212-823 9800; www.masanyc.com).

The books on my bedside table are JK Rowling’s latest, The Cuckoo’s Calling, This Town by Mark Leibovich, which is a fascinating, often funny look at the political world of Washington DC, and The Hare with Amber Eyes: A Hidden Inheritance, a memoir by British ceramicist Edmund de Waal. I tend to mix it up, so I might read a biography and then follow it up with a page-turner. I used to read Dostoyevsky and Tolstoy, but now I stick to contemporary fiction and books related to current events.

If I didn’t live in New York, the city I would live in is Paris. It’s hard to imagine living anywhere but New York, but Paris has some of the best museums in the world; I particularly love the Centre Pompidou, the Jeu de Paume and the Musée d’Orsay. I like walking everywhere – especially around the eighth arrondissement – and eating at ethnic restaurants such as Tong Yen, which has the most beautiful decor. My two favourite restaurants are Le Stresa and Le Duc and when I was awarded the French Légion d’Honneur I had a party at the former. I used to be a resident of the Ritz and look forward to seeing the renovation, but for now I enjoy staying at Le Bristol – it is an easy stroll to my gallery from there. Centre Pompidou, 19 Rue Beaubourg (+331-4478 1233; www.centrepompidou.fr). Jeu de Paume, 1 Place de la Concorde (+331-4703 1250; www.jeudepaume.org). Le Bristol, 112 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (+331-5343 4300; www.lebristolparis.com). Le Duc, 243 Boulevard Raspail (+331-4320 9630). Le Stresa, 7 Rue Chambiges (+331-4723 5162; www.lestresa.com). Musée d’Orsay, 1 Rue de la Légion d’Honneur (+331-4049 4814; www.musee-orsay.fr).Ritz Paris, 15 Place Vendôme (+331-4316 3030; www.ritzparis.com). Tong Yen, 1 Rue Jean Mermoz (+331-4225 0423).

An object I would never part with is my BlackBerry. I use it to phone, text and email and I find it easier to type on than other devices. When dinner starts, however, I turn it off and won’t check it again until the next morning unless there is something very time-sensitive going on. Although I am particularly attached to this device, I can’t stand it when people check theirs during meals or meetings. www.blackberry.com.

The grooming staple I’m never without is my $1.69 nail-clippers from the local pharmacy. I don’t have the patience to sit still for a manicure, so I carry my own clippers wherever I go.

The Hare with Amber Eyes: A Hidden Inheritance by Edmund de Waal

My favourite room in my house is the library at my beach house. There are piles of magazines and books that I love to read, as well as a ridiculously large television. I have a similar room in each of my homes, but this one has the most relaxed feel. There are comfortable sofas and a coffee table that you can put your feet up on. The whole space feels very laid-back and contemporary.

If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose the Upper East Side of Manhattan, near Madison Avenue. I find everything there, from pharmacy basics at Zitomer to fine furniture from Delorenzo Gallery, whose owner, Tony, happens to be a great friend. I stock up on bathing suits at Vilebrequin and visit Three Guys, the ultimate New York diner, for a casual bite. Delorenzo Gallery, 956 Madison Avenue (+1212-249 7575; www.delorenzogallery.com). Three Guys, 960 Madison Avenue (+1212-628 8108).Vilebrequin, 1007 Madison Avenue (+1212-650 0353; www.vilebrequin.com). Zitomer, 969 Madison Avenue (+1212-737 5560; www.zitomer.com).

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be unemployed. I’m thankful that I found a job that I love and I’m successful at, so I really can’t imagine doing anything else.

Larry Gagosian talks personal taste: Part One

Gallerist Larry Gagosian oversees a global art empire with 12 exhibition spaces in eight cities, including New York, London and Hong Kong

Larry Gagosian at his home in Easthampton | Image: Dylan Coutler

My personal style signifier is a pair of Levi’s 501 jeans and one of the 500 or so T-shirts that I collect from wherever I go. I’m a casual guy and rarely wear a tie, so this is my uniform of choice. I also keep my hair in a crew cut for ease. I think it suits me. From £70; www.levi.com.

The last thing I bought and loved was a Wilson Pro Staff tennis racket. I’m not great at tennis, but I love it and play four or five times a week during the summer. I’m hoping this racket will improve my game. From £170; www.wilson.com.

And the thing I’m eyeing next is a special-edition Leica M9 Titanium camera by Walter de Silva. He is a car designer and his Audi design team has reinterpreted this classic camera in titanium and given it a leather trim. It is a beautiful – and compact – collaboration, perfect for my travels. £19,800; www.leica-camera.com.

A recent “find” is Sushi Sasabune in Los Angeles. It serves A-plus omakase sushi and, while it is literally a hole in the wall, the food is just unbelievable. LA does unassuming sushi bars in shopping malls very well, but this one is above and beyond. 11917 Wilshire Boulevard, West Los Angeles (+1310-478 3596).

The last music I downloaded was John Coltrane’s My Favorite Things. I am a huge fan of jazz from the 1960s and John Coltrane and Miles Davis are hard to beat. This particular album features jazz versions of pop favourites. I also recently added two classics to my collection: Bob Dylan’s Tempest and Free Jazz: A Collective Improvisation by the great alto saxophonist Ornette Coleman.

In my fridge you’ll always find non-fat Greek yoghurt and fresh pomegranate seeds. This fruit is part of my Armenian heritage and I eat the seeds on my yoghurt every morning. You’ll also find a bottle of champagne – most likely Dom Pérignon – as well as eggs, cheese and all the staples. I have a very well-stocked fridge.

My Favorite Things by John Coltrane

The last item I added to my wardrobe was a pair of green lizard Gucci loafers. I got them in Beverly Hills and I’m trying to figure out when I’m going to wear them. I’m not sure there’s an occasion for this particular pair of shoes. From £1,130; 347 North Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, CA 90210 (+1310-278 3451; www.gucci.com).

The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Henri Rousseau. His paintings are extremely seductive and strange – his work stands apart from the rest of art history. His jungle paintings in particular are just amazing. The Beyeler Foundation has one of my favourites and the Museum of Modern Art has some great ones, too – but his work is incredibly rare and virtually impossible to get hold of. www.fondationbeyeler.ch. www.moma.org.

The rose-gold vintage Rolex Gagosian bought at Christie’s | Image: © Christie’s Images

The best gift I’ve given recently was a beautiful vintage Rolex watch to my girlfriend. This rose-gold GMT model is very rare and I bought it at auction at Christie’s. It is an oversize watch that is substantial yet elegant at the same time. www.christies.com. www.rolex.com.

And the best one I’ve received recently was a drawing that the American painter John Currin gave me for my birthday. It’s a small picture of a woman in the colours of Picasso’s Rose Period and it hangs in my bedroom in Amagansett, Long Island. www.gagosian.com/artists/john-currin.

The Dream, c1910, by Henri Rousseau | Image: Carl de Souza/AFP/Getty Images


The people I rely on for personal grooming and wellbeing are Enzo and Ken, the barbers at The Dorchester. I travel so frequently that I am reliant on haircutters away from New York to keep my crew cut in shape. Park Lane, London W1 (020-7499 0759; www.thedorchester.com).

The site that inspires me is the ocean near my home in Amagansett. I love the coastline at any time of the day or night, but I particularly like to swim in the sea in the afternoon. Away from the pace of the city, this peaceful landscape just charges me up.

My favourite websites are few and far between. I like Artsy because it makes more than 50,000 pieces of art, from institutions from the Guggenheim to the British Museum, accessible to people all over the world. I’m also an Amazon fan – I’m a book junkie and when I find a title that intrigues me I want it straight away; this provides almost instant gratification. www.amazon.com. www.artsy.net.

Haptic Lab: Custom quilts with cartographical clout

Exquisite heirlooms from a Brooklyn design collective

In an increasingly digitised world, the customised quilts handmade by Brooklyn-based Haptic Lab are a breath of fresh air. Founded by architect-turned-artist Emily Fischer, the design collective specialises in soft maps that serve as decorative objects and coverlets. “Quilts are between art and design,” explains Fischer. “They are craft pieces with a specific function, but they are also narrative heirlooms that can be displayed as art.”

Her creations – many of which are commissioned as wedding or anniversary gifts – have “an intrinsic emotional gravity to them,” says Fischer. She takes delight in working with a broad client base that comes to her with geographies and ideas as wide-ranging as an archipelago from a scientific expedition, to a ski-trail map from Telluride (first and second pictures), to a starry night sky. She then translates these personal places into one of her bespoke cotton and silk quilts that generally take three to four months to complete, and cost from $3,600.

Fischer’s understated aesthetic – and her love of a good city grid – is evident in such commissions as a monochromatic plan de Paris that features arrondissements, and a stark white map of lower Manhattan that was ordered by one New York couple to christen a new flat. A queen-size coverlet, featuring the rugged Nova Scotia coastline, is another example of Fischer’s ability to create a highly individualised narrative using embroidery. Quilts can be further customised by weight and are filled with cotton or wool wadding according to a client’s preference.

In addition to commissions, Haptic Lab also offers a selection of ready-made quilts of over 20 US and European cities ($450) that can be embroidered with personal details – a specific street or topographical feature, for example, can be highlighted, with initials or messages added – at no extra charge. The word “haptic” is derived from the Greek word to touch, and Fischer hopes that her creations “will be used today and also last for generations. I hope these quilts will find a home in the life of a family for at least the next 200 years.”

Mish

Magpies flock to this intimate NoHo jewellery salon for its fanciful creations and exquisite bespoke work

Set behind purple-lacquered doors on NoHo’s bustling Bond Street, you’ll find Mish, the eponymous jewellery salon and studio of the very dapper Mish Tworkowski. The designer is noted for his exuberant, sought-after creations and innovative bespoke work, in particular his organically inspired designs.

gold Wakaya cuffs with shell shapes, based on those found in Fiji, embellished with brown diamonds, $168,000 and $166,000 | Image: Dorothy Hong

He learnt to sketch and mould “by osmosis” at an early age, while spending time at a family friend’s jewellery firm. But it was during his years as a jewellery specialist at Sotheby’s in New York and London that he garnered a stylish following who sought the fanciful treasures he created on the side – and who continue to be some of his most loyal patrons. Tworkowski is the sole designer of the salon’s creations, and he works with a team of six to make pieces for an international clientele.

After 10 years in a carriage house on the Upper East Side, Tworkowski and his partner – the shop’s architect, Joseph Singer – moved to this mid-19th-century space in 2011, adding hand-painted walls inspired by petrified wood, a striking art-deco lilac suede sofa and a 1940s Barovier chandelier. The boutique’s bronze vitrines display Tworkowski’s jewels and nature’s inspiration is evident – take the chunky gold Wakaya cuffs with shell shapes, based on those found in Fiji, embellished with brown diamonds ($168,000 and $166,000), and a rose-gold Honeywood cocktail ring with a Mandarin garnet ($64,000). A vault holds some 400 additional treasures, including lariats of topaz nuggets with tassels of pearls and diamonds ($28,000). Modern art collectors, meanwhile, seeks out Mish for his bold, mineral-specimen pieces, such as blue shattuckite earrings ($18,600).

Bonnelle lariat necklace with smoky-topaz nuggets and tassels in gold, grey Tahitian and gold keshi pearls and beads, $28,000 | Image: Dorothy Hong

It is, however, Mish’s bespoke commissions that are the most exciting. From a request by Isabella Rossellini to rework her mother Ingrid Bergman’s strands of pearls into stone-encrusted bracelets and a chain necklace for her daughter, Elettra Wiedemann, to crafting custom-made tiaras, Tworkowski delights in creating “functional sculpture” for a discerning clientele.

This collaborative process includes everything from visits to a client’s home country to museum forays. “I get to know my customers very well – their stories, favourite places, colour preferences and their level of formality,” he says. After initial consultations, an on-site watercolourist then creates renderings on signature chocolate-brown paper, so that a client can visualise each commission.

As a result, his works are both personal and inventive. He has, for example, reimagined a customer’s priceless Suzanne Belperron ring to fit her more relaxed lifestyle, while other standout designs include Asian-inspired keepsakes ($36,000), featuring the camellias, koi and stone lanterns loved by a Tokyo-based couple.

His creations may be uniquely varied, but every one of his pieces showcases Tworkowski’s exquisite artistry and contemporary flair. “In the end,” he says, “I hope that I am creating a client’s power amulet – something that they feel is special but that they can wear all the time.”

Hand-printed wallpaper wonders: Adelphi

Custom block-printed hangings with heritage clout, from an artisanal studio

Traditional block-printed wallpaper can be tricky to track down. So difficult, in fact, that the Sir John Soane’s Museum Foundation recently sought the expertise of Adelphi Paper Hangings – a small studio in upstate New York – to assist with the renovation of the London apartments belonging to the neo-classical architect John Soane.

Since around 1840, machine-printed paper has become the norm, but there are several artisanal producers such as Adelphi who remain dedicated to the labour-intensive craft of block-printing wallpaper by hand. “Ours is a very immediate and deliberate way of working,” explains co-founder Steve Larson. “It is physically demanding and the end result is by no means slick. Our papers have variations – imperfections even – that let you know it is a handmade product.”

While Adelphi has built a strong reputation based on its work for museums and historical institutions such as Wordsworth House in the Lake District, and a restoration of James Madison’s Montpelier in Virginia, the firm works increasingly with private clients and noted designers such as Thomas Jayne and Nina Campbell on a variety of projects both large and small (such as those pictured). Often starting with historical documents or swatches of antique wallpapers, Adelphi sets about matching colours and replicating prints – many of which are hundreds of years old and are incredibly complex. In the case of the Soane Museum, where the original paper could not be removed from the walls in London, high-resolution photographs are used as the basis for authentic reproduction.

Private commissions generally take three to six months, depending on the complexity of the pattern and the number of colours involved, and a minimum order of three, 10m rolls is required ($380 to $945) though most clients opt for 12 to 20 rolls per room. After draft patterns are created for approval, custom-made, cross-banded, pearwood-faced blocks are created, distemper paints are mixed and test prints are made for client approval. It is only after these processes that prints are physically pressed onto either seamed or continuous rolls of acid free, 75 per cent cotton-fibre paper that closely mimic the texture and weight of the paper that was typically used in the 18th and early 19th century for block-printing.

For those who seek inspiration and don’t have a specific commission in mind, Adelphi has a significant archive of American, French and English patterns and wallpapers to choose from, and also offers licensed prints from Historic New England, The Smithsonian Institution, The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, Old Sturbridge Village, the New York State Historical Association, the Musée du Papier Peint, as well as from other historic institutions and private collections on both sides of the Atlantic. For those wanting a more contemporary feel, Adelphi can also create graphic patterns and subtle hues – think beiges and subdued greys – that work well in a variety of more modern spaces.

“There are a few of us who are still making paper this way,” says Larson, “but for the most part, wallpaper is digitally printed and it just lacks some of the depth and character of the handmade version – it’s like looking at a photograph of wallpaper.”

Adelphi Paper Hangings’ use of traditional tools, methods and materials yields richly textured, nuanced wallpapers that are, quite simply, in a league of their own.

Svenskt Tenn: iconic design in Stockholm

Cheerful, chic interiors nirvana in Östermalm

Stockholm is a design-lovers’ nirvana, with graphic prints and modernist furniture at virtually every turn. But no trip to this magical city is complete without a visit to Svenskt Tenn, a vivid interiors shop-cum-café in the chic Östermalm area. Opened in 1924 by pewter designer and aesthetic visionary Estrid Ericson, and fêted architect Josef Frank, the store has remained a vibrant centre full of the bold print fabrics and some 2,000 furniture sketches that were originally created specifically for the store.

A visit to Svenskt Tenn is an incredible experience, one that should include a visit to their tea salon for a bit of post-retail rejuvenation in a contemporary setting. Each of the shop’s bright, airy spaces – arranged across many rooms, and in various themes and colours – offers an eye-popping array of textiles. These striking fabrics – available by the metre in coated cotton (SEK1,100, about £103), linen (from about £103 to £135) and plain cotton (about £98) – often feature birds, plants, seashells and other natural forms that Frank found so inspirational. Cushions – from sofa pillows (about £70 to £112) to statement-making pieces with sayings such as “the world is a book and he who stays at home reads only one page” – create a cheerful backdrop for the assorted chairs, glass bookcases and cabinets.

It’s hard to pick favourites in this emporium, but I particularly liked Frank’s simple chairs – the arts-and-crafts-esque 2025 with a beautiful rattan seat (about £943) as well as his upholstered armchair 335 (about £2,316) in a vegetal motif. I am also a big fan of the muted marvel that is pewter, and temptation here was hard to resist, be it the newer Green box designs (about £261) by Jakob Solgren or Ericson’s Peruvian-inspired urns (about £4,484) or extremely tall candlesticks (about £172).  

Lighting was of paramount importance to the founders (particularly at the dinner table, where Ericson believed guests should be cast in a flattering glow, as well as from above), and this part of the shop offers playful, primary-coloured floor lighting by Frank (No 2431, about £757, third picture) as well hanging Greta lamps (about £981) by Whatswhat, available in deep indigo, fuchsia or canary yellow.

Creative director Thommy Bindefeld is also always looking for new collaborators: “We source partnerships with Swedish as well as with international names whose design language corresponds and plays well with Josef Frank’s timeless creations,” he explains. “Our aim is for Svenskt Tenn to have a mixture of historical and contemporary pieces.” Their balance between archive and avant-garde is just right.

Frank once said: “Never let things stay permanent in your home – keep rearranging the furniture, and remember to leave space for children and gifts. Your home will thereby remain a living entity.” There’s no better summation of the eclectic philosophy behind Svenskt Tenn.

Alicia Adams Alpaca: luxuriously soft winter warmers

An accessories designer who raises alpacas on her New York state farm to spin her luxurious offerings

Long considered the “gold of the Andes”, alpaca wool is softer than cashmere and offers the added benefits of being hypoallergenic, temperature regulating (due to microscopic air pockets) and lightweight to boot. Highly sought after, it can often be difficult to find accessories woven from the luxurious material because of a dwindling alpaca population. But designer Alicia Adams raises alpacas on her farm in rural New York – which makes her boutique, Alicia Adams Alpaca, something of a discovery.

Image: Tom Moore

Scarves, rugs and other warm pieces are showcased to beautiful effect on her accessories site. Decorative throws are a particular strength, with offerings including tassel-edged designs ($425) in colours such as ivory, cognac and seafoam, and fur-backed ($1,845, first picture), which have a chic chalet aesthetic. Graphical, multiband blankets ($467) and border bedspreads ($875) and pillows (from $175, second picture) with beige and slate-grey trims are also alluring.

Image: Tom Moore

Image: Tom Moore

Capes, scarves and other personal accessories run the gamut from minimalist (a double-sided cape in vicuña, $595) to mink-trimmed (wraps, $745, in natural hues, fourth picture). Vests, ponchos, stoles and an array of scarves (from $168, third picture) come in various widths and lengths, including petite and unisex – all in colours from charcoal and curry to hot pink. Knit ties ($98), extra-long gloves ($122) and Tudor hand warmers (aka fingerless gloves; $174) and an assortment of hats including a ribbed cap with a pom-pom ($130) all promise to keep the chill at bay in style.

Such luxuries make this e-boutique a winter winner – it’s almost worth getting excited about the cold weather.

Aaron Keppel: a milliner for sartorial adventurers

Hats off to an artist who creates theatre for the head

“I’m not your grandmother’s milliner,” declares Brooklyn-based, bespoke hat creator, Aaron Keppel of id. And indeed, his one-off creations are not the least bit staid or predictable. A trained sculptor, Keppel is considered by many to be a king of creative headgear, and his imaginative designs grace stylish events (think the Met’s Costume Institute Gala) on both sides of the pond.

Keppel works collaboratively with clients – whether in person in New York, or by phone and email – to design a hat that not only suits its wearer, but also the occasion. Every hat is entirely custom-made, right down to the fine details that are id’s point of distinction. The process of commissioning a hat is simple: photographs of the client are taken – as are measurements – and Keppel then works up numerous, highly detailed sketches of each design. Once a style is chosen, Keppel sends photographs of the commission in progress.

Unlike many milliners, Keppel doesn’t limit himself to felt, fabric or straw (though he is happy to fashion a simple sun hat or fedora from those materials), but instead seeks out vintage fabrics and trims, feathers, mother-of-pearl, unusual flowers, bamboo, twigs and moss – “any material that can be manipulated”, explains Keppel. Recent commissions have included a laurel-wreath-inspired tiara, an eye-catching silk butterfly with a 2ft wingspan (second picture) and a fantastical owl made entirely of torn and pasted rag paper (third picture).

Keppel is strongly influenced by nature and architecture, and botanical gardens and the works of Antonio Gaudí are a particularly rich source of inspiration. From simple vegetal motifs comprised of handmade flowers (first picture), to intricate structures made of wood veneer, commissions can take anywhere from two weeks to two months and typically range in price from $800 to $4,000, depending on the availability of materials and the intricacy of the work involved.

“My clients tend to be people who are somewhat daring,” explains Keppel, “and these hats are definitely something you won’t see anywhere else.”

www.id--design.com

Muriel Grateau: porcelain perfection in Paris

Non-conformist cool on the Left Bank

A visit to Muriel Grateau’s chic Parisian design gallery – tucked away in St Germain’s Rue de Beaune – is a delight for the senses. Just around the corner from the Musée d’Orsay, it’s a worthy cultural detour. Her eponymous shop is a study in stark contrasts: brilliant white walls and bright lighting showcase a range of handmade porcelain plates (first picture), utensils and linen napkins in over 100 hues – all to beautiful effect. Most special, however, is Madame Grateau herself, who you can sometimes find on the premises on a Saturday afternoon. Clad in head-to-toe black – with her signature sleek shades – she is the embodiment of Parisian style and takes delight in discussing her unusual porcelain and linens.

A fashion designer by trade, Grateau turned her exacting eye to tableware more than 20 years ago and now creates minimalist, elegant collections that have recently increased to include statement-making rings, earrings, necklaces and cuffs, and design collaborations with the likes of Axel Vervoordt, India Mahdavi, Peter Marino and Thierry Despont. The spare space includes rows of neatly arranged place settings – the Arte series (plates, cups and bowls from €95-€355) in matte black and ebony shades; the Sorcière series (€145-€420) in mirrored, mottled hues that create a “witches eye mirror”; and the colourful Pop Art collection (€195-€390) which, as its name suggests, offers profusions of colour in both matte and high-gloss finishes. All of the pieces – from the simplest saucer to larger serving pieces – are hand-poured and coloured “in the biscuit”, which gives them a sculptural, artisanal feel.

Exquisite glassware (second picture) in shades of smoky grey and aubergine are works of art, and the range is available in assorted wine- and water-glass sizes. Plain and damask table linens (third picture) in shades ranging from neutral beige to striking apricot and lime hues make heavenly gifts, and Grateau’s versions are contemporary yet timeless. I could have filled a suitcase with these simple pieces alone.

In addition to all of this colourful tableware is the jewellery collection (prices upon request) that is displayed in the back part of Mme Grateau’s 140sq m space. Simple glass vitrines seem to float on the walls in order to display her largely black-and-white collection of spectacular accessories, most of which have been carved from quartz, and are embellished with diamonds. From enormous rock-crystal bangles encircled with black sapphires to a cocktail ring comprised of a large, onyx cabochon with glittered black lacquer, all of her designs are starkly striking.

“I enjoy purity and simplicity because they create timeless forms,” explains Grateau. “My simple designs are as beautiful on an 18th-century table as they are in a fashionable designer’s urban setting.” Grateau is a non-conformist tastemaker – she’s a scion of contemporary Left Bank cool.

A bucolic bolthole in Connecticut’s Litchfield Hills

Luxurious escapism is par for the course at the Mayflower Inn & Spa

One of the greatest things about New York City is the relative ease with which it’s possible to escape: an hour in virtually any direction and you could find yourself at the beach, in the mountains, or sitting by a pristine lake. An hour and 40 minutes north, however, will put you in bucolic Washington, Connecticut – an area of rolling hills and white clapboard New England churches – a picture-perfect town that, for me, recently made for a completely restorative retreat.

I had the good fortune to stay at the newly renovated Mayflower Inn & Spa, a 58-acre oasis that offers everything from fishing lessons to craniosacral massage in the loveliest of Zen settings. With just 30 rooms (from $675-$1,850 per night) – complete with sumptuous Frette linens and many featuring four-poster beds – the atmosphere felt more grand, shingle-style country house than Relais & Chateaux, of which the Mayflower is a part. Every detail was attended to in advance of my visit – minibar requests, personally chosen midnight snacks (excellent touch), as well as preferences for beauticians, should I choose to indulge in the sprawling 20,000sq ft spa.

The inn has built a stellar reputation among spa-goers, but I travelled here specifically for fresh air, good food and downtime. One could, however, easily spend a fully packed month here, as the activities on offer are endless: mountain biking, guided hikes, archery, yoga and Pilates, antiquing in nearby towns, tennis lessons, warming ginger pedicures… the list goes on and on. My weekend away was focused on the great outdoors, but after touring the spa and its soothing Garden Room and treatment facilities, I intend to return for some Steeprock Stone Therapy ($275) in the not-too-distant future. In addition, there is a whole Mind-Spirit menu that incudes classes in meditation, journal writing, watercolour and landscape painting, flower arranging and a particularly intriguing Organise Your Life course ($90) designed to help you manage it all on your return to reality.

I spent quality time reading on the peaceful wraparound porch, as well as in various public sitting rooms that are stocked with beautiful art books and freshly cut flowers. Delicious food is central to the whole Mayflower experience, too – no spartan spa deprivation here – and I feasted at the inn’s formal restaurant whose menu features traditional fare such as beef tenderloin tartare, artisanal-cheese risotto and Niman Ranch pork tenderloin. But I preferred the more casual Tap Room with its comforting classics (a signature Greyledge Farm black Angus burger with hand-cut Parmesan and rosemary chips was perfection) and relaxed vibe.

As an escape that includes lush wilderness, healthy living, a rich panoply of activities and the kind of attention to detail that means wellies and a mac are provided should the sun fail to shine – could life ever be without a serious silver lining at this picturesque haven? Never.

JAR dazzles at The Met

The museum shop sparkles during a glittering blockbuster

It takes quite a bit to excite jaded New Yorkers, but lovers of fine jewellery and fashion are in a state of high anticipation about the Jewels by JAR exhibition opening at The Metropolitan Museum of Art on Wednesday November 20. In addition to the wide selection of the ever-elusive master craftsman’s exquisite creations on display, he has also produced a collection of earrings and watches that will be available to buy for the duration of the show.

Joel Arthur Rosenthal – aka JAR – is rarely in the public eye, despite being hailed as one of the most important jewellers today. Indeed, he is the first contemporary gem artist to have a solo retrospective at The Met. It comes as no surprise that the show is shrouded in mystery, with only a few images being released before the previews. What the exhibition does promise, however, is a profusion of vibrant gemstones, pearls and cameos – all set in an unusual array of metals, including platinum, green gold and titanium – from an exquisite pair of Lilac brooches comprised of diamonds, sapphires, garnets, aluminium, silver and gold to one of the exuberant, fire-opal-  and amethyst-encrusted Butterfly brooches.

JAR is revered for his use of coloured rare and precious gems, such as the Cameo and Rose Petal brooch (first picture) or his Multicoloured Handkerchief earrings (second picture), but this exhibition also makes clear his love for semiprecious stones and materials such as ivory, coral, rock crystal and jasper, which are often overlooked in haute joaillerie.

Of the pieces for sale, eight earring styles range in price from $2,000 to $7,500, including the striking Tickle Me Feather in 18ct gold plate ($7,500, third picture) and the sculptural Carnaval à Venise ($2,000, fourth picture), while two watch styles will retail for $600 each, thereby putting the jewels of JAR within more of his adoring fans’ reach.

A gemological blockbuster in the making.

37 Extreme Actives: one pot anti-ageing wonder?

The power of an all-in-one, emollient-rich anti-ageing cream

When it comes to high-end beauty products, the school run isn’t necessarily the first place I tend to look. But it was here that I was introduced to 37 Extreme Actives anti-ageing cream (£225), an anti-ageing wonder cream by Dr Macrene Alexiades-Armenakas MD PhD, which another mum swore was the key to “holding on to middle age”. She looks terrific and it was her desire to maintain her age-appropriate visage – rather than trying to look like a plumped-up teenager – that piqued my interest in the nutrient-rich product.

Before I put anything on my highly sensitive, rosacea-prone face, I do my research. This generally means that I use only simple, non-irritating cleansers and creams, and they must all have some sort of scientific backing. I was intrigued by Dr Alexiades-Armenakas’s bona fides: she holds three degrees from Harvard, including a PhD in genetics; was a Fulbright scholar, is a professor at the Yale University School of Medicine; and has consulted for L’Oréal on its anti-ageing formulations. Bottom line: scientific credentials – tick.

One month into my regimen and I am a convert to her all-in-one, emollient-rich lotion that I now use morning and night. I’ve learned a lot about actives – “ingredients that produce an intended action” – and how Dr Alexiades-Armenakas’s particular concoction actually works. Starting with a natural ingredient list that is sourced almost entirely from plants (versus those manufactured in a chemistry lab), 37 Extreme Actives is also free of parabens, colours and excess fragrance.

Unlike many formulations, this one delivers on the claim that it works in a matter of minutes, days and weeks. Minutes? Seriously. After the first use, my red cheeks were visibly calmer – which I assume is down to its combination of Bisabolol, coffee, yerba mate tea and feverfew. Within days I saw my crow’s feet become slightly less pronounced (could it be the complex peptides?) and now, in week four, my brown spots from past sun sins are starting to fade. It’s a knockout cocktail of antioxidants, Resveratrol, plankton and blue algae (for DNA defence) and soy and glycerine (for old-fashioned moisture). The result? My skin is, quite simply, rejuvenated.

In addition to short-term effects, 37 Extreme Actives promises to reverse wrinkling, restore cellular generation and create a stronger barrier to harsh pollutants over the long haul. For now, it allows me to apply just one cream versus many serums and substances, and there are no lasers, needles or foreign components involved – uplifting indeed.

Sublime sushi in Paris

Kinugawa: a Right Bank temple of haute Japanese cuisine

When the frites and foie grasget too much for a gourmet visiting Paris, a little light, refined sushi might just be the order of the day. On a recent trip to the City of Light, I had the pure joy of eating at Kinugawa – a revered institution of haute Japanese cuisine – that has been recently redesigned by Gilles & Boissier in a graphic, cutting-edge style that is almost as interesting as the food itself. Dramatic murals, pointillist paintings, a black granite bar and bronze mirrors set the stage for what can best be described as theatrical cuisine.

After passing through the restaurant’s double doors, we were escorted to the sleek bar area for classic cocktails. The chic leather banquette seating is the perfect perch for watching the stylish parade pass by. Kinugawa is divided into distinct spaces and dinner is best enjoyed in a vast first-floor dining room with subtly textured walls, spare surfaces and greige chairs – all which take their cue from nature. The whole Kinugawa experience is a study in exquisite finishes and chic contrasts – dark cedar with lighter woods, polished stone and glass – which extends right up to l’Atelier, the intime sushi bar upstairs.

I would be hard-pressed to pick favourites from the menu, but if pushed, I’d say appetisers of delicate king crab in ponzu sauce (€28) and ultra-thin slices of maguro with with yuzu and white truffle oil (€18). This is simply my kind of dining: flavourful, beautifully presented and fundamentally healthy. Plates of sushi and sashimi were followed by vegetables prepared in innovative ways – ohitashi (spinach) with mushrooms, haricots verts in sesame sauce (both €10) – and some of the best chicken gyoza (€13) I’ve ever tasted. But it was the fish entrees – black miso cod (€32) and a Chilean sea bass (€29) in particular that have really stuck in my foodie memory. I realise that these mains can be found on many an Asian menu today, but Kinugawa’s renditions – light, juicy steaks of fish – might just be my last meal on earth, should I ever have to choose one.

I couldn’t possibly have had dessert, as the umpteen small plates made for an enormous feast, yet with just a refreshing herbal tea to cap the meal, I left Kinugawa feeling thoroughly sated… almost ready to face tomorrow’s croque monsieur.

Genius in a bottle: MCMC Fragrances

Bespoke perfumes from a bijou Brooklyn atelier

From humble beginnings in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, to a place on the shelves of Paris’s Colette and Tokyo’s Asoom, MCMC Fragrances’ founder Anne Serrano-McClain has quietly, but confidently, begun to make a name for herself among the perfume cognoscenti. A graduate of the prestigious Grasse Institute of Perfumery, she specialises in small batches of artisanal scent – many bespoke – that are created in-house.

Bespoke creations are a deceptively simple mix of just 10 to 20 ingredients, built around one of the main perfume families – citrus, wood or floral. Once Serrano-McClain has assessed her client’s affections for the various foundation options, she begins to build the scent with a delicate top note such as bergamot or cherry blossom, middle florals and a base note of sandalwood or vetiver. Those able to visit the Brooklyn studio can take part in a lesson in the art of perfume-making as they watch the process unfold before them – while those commissioning a scent from afar receive a beautiful box full of samples and scent strips to kick off the creative process.

“I enjoy working with clients to create their vision,” explains Serrano-McClain. “At the moment I am working with a jewellery designer who has long had a signature scent that her friends know her by. We are taking the musky base from this scent and combining it with rich floral notes that she encountered on a recent trip to Sicily.”

In addition to customised perfume, MCMC also offers a line of eight fragrances ($95 for 40ml) – Garden, Hunter (third picture), Kept, Love, Maine, Maui, Noble (second picture) and Phoenix, as well as cedar-wood inflected Dude No 1 Beard Oil ($65 for 30ml) and Dude No 1 Cologne ($75 for 30ml) – that often serve as a creative springboard for Serrano-McClain’s one-off commissions. Her special compositions – eau de parfum and perfume oils – are priced from $2,500 for a 50ml bottle, with refills at $275 each.

“When I discovered perfume, I realised this was the perfect medium for me as an artist,” says Serrano-McClain. “I’m interested in the way memories have a haze around them, how reality becomes ethereal and infused with meaning and romanticism. This is what I am hoping to convey through my fragrances.”