Le Grand Hotel: A Contemporary Palace in Paris
Fathom contributor and hotel critic Christina Ohly checks into a spectacularly grand boutique hotel in the heart of Paris.
Fathom contributor and hotel critic Christina Ohly checks into a spectacularly grand boutique hotel in the heart of Paris.
CHECKING IN
Overview
Set in an 18th-century building partly designated as a historical monument, Grand Hotel du Palais Royal Paris is a true gem in a city bursting with wonderful hotels. The chic boutique bolthole has all the advantages of a large, luxury hotel, but at just 68 rooms, is the only five-star of its kind in the well-situated Palais Royal area.
A soothing, sumptuous escape, the hotel is a study in neutral hues and minimalist aesthetics. Best of all, it is literally feet away from the gardens of Palais Royal — just stroll through the colonnade across the street from the hotel's lobby and you're transported to another time. Also in striking distance are the Tulleries, the Louvre, and wonderful shopping on both Rue Sainte-Honoré and in St. Germain-des-Pres across the Seine.
What's New
Noted French interiors guru Pierre-Yves Rochon renovated the rooms and common spaces, including Le Lulli restaurant and a cozy bar. The idea is to make you feel like the Palais is your maison away from home. A Carita spa and a reasonably well-outfitted gym (it's Paris after all, this isn't a priority) have also been updated, and great focus has been put on the concierge team, who work tirelessly to secure everything from Paris Saint Germain football tickets to hard-to-score reservations at restaurants such as Frenchie and Semilla to in-room doctor visits for sick children in need of antibiotics. (It wouldn't be a holiday without this added diversion, would it?)
What's on Site
You have all the amenities of one of the palace hotels found in the 8th and the 16th (gym, spa with hammam, delicious restaurant, spacious rooms with terraces), but the whole experience feels more intimate. Excellent WiFi, international newspapers, and plentiful adapters are pluses. The staff is willing to source anything — groceries, pharmacy finds, advance tickets to the Picasso Museum.
The Food
I'm a huge fan of breakfast, and I can't say enough good things about the complimentary spread in the conservatory restaurant, Le Lulli. The bright setting — brilliant green plants and a design-led Bertoia vibe — starts the day off right, and the selection of freshly baked breads, salads, fruit, cheeses, and excellent coffee are well beyond your typical, all-inclusive fare. Omelettes made to order are another highlight. The staff is attentive to every wish, sometimes before you've identified the need for more thé vert or jus d'orange. Lunch is also lovely, with light pouring into the restaurant and exquisitely prepared fish dishes and refined takes on the classic chicken Caesar salad.
n the Room
There are 57 rooms and eleven suites across the hotel's five floors, and each is elegant and filled with light. The rooms feel both warm and modern — beige and cream with leather and wood finishes, desks, and gleaming marble bathrooms — and are wonderful places to return to after a day of work or sightseeing. Minibars are stocked with beverages but little else, so ask for additional supplies or stock up at the nearby Franprix just down Rue St. Honoré. There are flat-screen TVs with umpteen channels in all languages, as well as strong, hot showers, thick towels, and enormous robes which all coalesce to ease the pain of long-haul flights.
Room with a View
Our family of four occupied two interconnecting rooms (308 and 309) overlooking quiet Rue du Valois and the entrance to Palais Royal. Bright even on slightly dreary days, these rooms work incredibly well for children of all ages, but next time I will stay in one of the terrace or panorama suites. Both are on the top floor, accessible by private elevator. Some have views of Palais Royal, while others have vistas of the Eiffel Tower, Montmartre, and Opera Garnier.
This Place Is Perfect For
Families, business travelers, fashionistas who want access to the nearby shops and ateliers of Paris' leading designers, and anyone who has a thing for the loggias and ambience of the Palais Royal. This is simply a rare gem.
But Not So Perfect For
Anyone who wants the big, shiny Parisian hotel experience. For this, head straight to the impressive new Peninsula on Avenue Kleber (also lovely, just a different experience).
CHECKING OUT
Neighborhood Vibe
Real life is happening here. You're not on a polished street in the Golden Triangle, but rather in the heart of the working city. Commuters come out of Palais Royal metro and scurry by, while tourists pass en route to the side entrance and the pyramids of the Louvre.
What to Do Nearby
There are no shortage of activities. Louvre, Musee D'Orsay, and the Opera are nearby. Excellent restaurants, of which there are many, include Café Marly in the colonnades of the Louvre, a perennial favorite for lunch and people-watching.
My favorite eateries are further afield, like the new Kinugawa Matignon in the 8th, which shines for both excellent sashimi and chic ambience. Ralph's in Saint Germain-des-Pres is wonderful for spring and summer lunches en plein air, as is a spread of Poilâne tartines at the casual Bar de la Croix Rouge (2 Place Michel Debré; +33-1-4548-0645), more toned down than nearby Café de Flore (172 Boulevard Saint-Germain; +33-1-4548-5526) and Les Deux Magots (which will always be mainstays).
Semilla, also in the 6th arrondissement, is an excellent choice for both the design-led space and small plates of grilled shiitake mushrooms and enormous bowls of cake and ice cream drizzled with caramel sauce — dishes meant for sharing that add to the relaxed, convivial vibe.
The high-end shops (YSL, Prada, Hermès...) are on Rue Saint-Honoré, while smaller gems are hidden across the Seine in St. Germain-des-Pres. L/Uniform is hands-down my favorite shop for stylish, practical canvas and leather bags by the daughter-in-law of the Goyard family. Muriel Grateau is a beautiful, spare space full of exquisite linen napkins, minimalist ceramics, and strong, statement-making crystal jewelry. Basics like Le Bon Marché and Du Pareil au Même (the French answer to/or a cooler version of Baby Gap) are both in this area of the 6th.
Lovers of good design should flock to 107Rivoli (part of Musee des Arts Décoratifs), which is full of incredible accessories, books, lighting, jewelry, and more. It's a short walk from the hotel next to the Louvre.
PLAN YOUR TRIP
Good to Know
Book directly through the hotel so that upgrades and changes are handled directly with the front desk. The owners of this hotel are all about happy customers and will upgrade whenever possible. Don't be shy about asking. Ditto for early check-ins and bag storage. Both are helpful after a red-eye flight.
Uber is big in Paris: Cheaper, faster, nicer drivers (generally) who dole out sweets and bottled water make rides a win-win.
How to Get There
The hotel is approximately 45 minutes from Charles De Gaulle airport (CDG) by car (depending on the time of day) and 30 minutes from Paris Orly airport (ORY), which services much of Europe. The Palais Royal Metro is around the corner from the hotel and is by far the easiest way to get around, particularly during Fashion Week when the area becomes gridlocked.
The cool retro vibe of Hotel Alexandra, Copenhagen
The cool retro vibe of Hotel Alexandra, Copenhagen
The cool retro vibe of Hotel Alexandra, Copenhagen
I grew up with grandparents that celebrated all things Scandinavian; Georg Jensen and Arne Jacobsen were common names around their house, and I inherited from them a love of all things midcentury. So when I stayed at Copenhagen’s Hotel Alexandra earlier this year I was in design heaven, for this authentic and affordable 61-room boutique gem – situated just steps from the Tivoli Gardens and bustling City Hall Square – is a passionate, authentic recreation of this fertile era of Danish design.
The retro vibe begins in the chic lobby space (first picture) and is carried throughout the hotel, where all the furniture and light fixtures, fabrics and artworks are genuine midcentury articles (with the welcome additions of flatscreen TVs and WiFi), chosen with vintage furniture expert Anders Petersen – and virtually every object is also for sale. The standard rooms (from €180) are small yet quite special, as no two are exactly alike, but it is the deluxe versions and suites (from €240) dedicated to specific designers – from the calmly minimal Hans J Wegner room (second picture) to the psychedelic 1960s-style Verner Panton suite (third picture) – that really stand out.
The most recent addition to the mix is the 35 sq m Collector’s Suite (from €240 per night, fourth picture) – an exquisite rosewood-panelled space that overlooks the hotel courtyard and Studiestræde below, and which will be reconceived several times each year by Petersen. The furnishings – an early Wegner Sawhorse chair (€2,546), a sculptural coat rack by Adam Hoff and Poul Østergaard (€697), and the black leather upholstered couch by Hans Olsen (€5,200) – are all, in my opinion, worthy of the Museum of Modern Art.
“The point of the room is to make guests feel like they are in a time capsule,” says Petersen – and it works, helped along by the early-1970s ceramics and carefully selected tomes devoted to Panton and Jacobsen that grace the suite’s minimalist dark wood shelving system by Kai Kristiansen (€1,300).
“Our next interior will be dedicated to Poul Kjærholm, one of the most iconic Danish furniture architects of all time,” explains Petersen. “With the help of his daughter, Krestine, we will be producing a bed he originally designed for his own home and of which there are currently only three in existence.”
Benjamin Millepied talks personal taste: Part One
Dancer and choreographer Benjamin Millepied is the outgoing director of dance for the Paris Opera and the founder of artist collective LA Dance Project
Dancer and choreographer Benjamin Millepied is the outgoing director of dance for the Paris Opera and the founder of artist collective LA Dance Project
My personal style signifiers are Christophe Lemaire trousers and shirts by Acne – usually in dark colours; my clothes, even if fitted, have a sense of comfort and ease of movement. I tend to wear everything with a pair of black leather lace-ups by Feit: the craftsmanship is impeccable, they’re beautifully designed and they’re very minimal, which is in keeping with my overall style. From £130; www.acnestudios.com. From €540; www.feitdirect.com. From €355; www.lemaire.fr.
The best gift I’ve given recently was a first edition of Gertrude Stein’s What Are Masterpieces?. I love old books and think anything by Stein is interesting, but this particular edition is very special. I bought it at Shakespeare and Company, where shopping is always a wonderful experience. 37 Rue de la Bûcherie, 75005 Paris (+331 4325 4093;www.shakespeareandcompany.com).
An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Iceland. The areas we visited were almost uninhabited and some of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been to. I loved the combination of natural landscape, pure air and absolute quiet. We stayed at the ION Luxury Adventure Hotel [pictured] in Selfoss, where the scenery and food were both outstanding. I’d love to go back and see the Northern Lights there next year. Nesjavellir vid Thingvallavatn 801 (+354‑482 3415; www.ioniceland.is).
And the best souvenirs I’ve brought home are six Bauhaus-style chairs from the depths of a flea market in Jaffa, Tel Aviv. This is the largest Bauhaus city in the world – many architects fled here during the second world war – and one of the chairs I found is from a traditional kibbutz. The others are made of a light-coloured wood and are quite angular. All six now feature prominently at our home in Paris.
A recent “find” is the incredible area around the Rue du Nil in the second arrondissement of Paris. You can source wonderful organic vegetables, cheeses and meats from Terroirs d’Avenir and enjoy Paris’s best Reuben sandwich from the café Frenchie To Go [pictured]. It’s all there on a single street. Frenchie To Go, 9 Rue du Nil, 75002 Paris (+331-4026 2343; www.frenchietogo.com). Terroirs d’Avenir, 6-8 Rue du Nil, 75002 Paris (+331-8170 9798; www.terroirs-avenir.fr).
The sight that inspires me is the light at around 5pm as it pierces the streets of LA. Whether I’m in Silver Lake or Koreatown, I love that you can see so many decades in one street’s architecture – from art deco to modernism – all bathed in this beautiful light.
The last music I listened to was James Blake’s latest songRadio Silence. I love his voice and the complexity of his rhythms.
An indulgence I would never forgo is a great steak. At Mario Batali’s Osteria Mozza in LA they do a truffle-crusted rib eye that is crazy, and the flat-iron steak at The Factory Kitchen is also outstanding. The Factory Kitchen, 1300 Factory Place, CA 90013 (+1213-996 6000; www.thefactorykitchen.com). Osteria Mozza, 6602 Melrose Avenue, CA 90038 (+1323-297 0100; www.osteriamozza.com).
The last items of clothing I added to my wardrobe include a pair of Japansee-style loose black cashmere trousers from a new clothing line I’m developing with Berluti; a Saint Laurent tailored overcoat; and sweatshirts, sweatpants and trainers [pictured] by Undefeated that I wear when I’m in LA. www.berluti.com. www.undefeated.com. www.ysl.com.
The grooming staples I’m never without are Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery Concentrate [pictured], a nighttime facial oil, and Christophe Robin’s Delicate Volumising shampoo and conditioner, which is very moisturising. Christophe Robin shampoo, £28 for 250ml; conditioner, £32 for 250ml; www.net-a-porter.com. Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery Concentrate, £36 for 50ml; www.kiehls.co.uk.
My favourite websites include Medium.com for excellent, forward-thinking articles, and Lefigaro.fr, Lemonde.fr and Nytimes.comfor news and opinion. Economist.com is great for world politics and business, and Theartnewspaper.com is my go-to for the latest about the visual arts.
Benjamin Millepied talks personal taste: Part Two
The choreographer concludes his list of likes with the sartorial elegance of Jimmy Stewart, the passion of Anselm Kiefer and the cultural abundance of LA
The choreographer concludes his list of likes with the sartorial elegance of Jimmy Stewart, the passion of Anselm Kiefer and the cultural abundance of LA
My style icons are Jimmy Stewart and Fred Astaire, who wore clothes elegantly and carried themselves with a nonchalant confidence; American movie stars like these are rare today. And Alain Delon, because his style is never over-thought.
The best gift I’ve received recently is a photograph by Dutch artist Pim Van Os called Untitled (Light Abstraction). It’s a beautiful silver gelatin print from the 1950s and was a present from my wife [Natalie Portman].
The last thing I bought and loved was a really fitted elastic shirt by Acne. It has a very high neckline and is suitable for work but elegant enough to be worn to an evening performance at the ballet. www.acnestudios.com.
And the thing I’m eyeing next is a pair of black Berluti loafers [from £530]. They look traditional but they’re made of the finest, thinnest leather so they feel almost like a ballet shoe. They’ll work well with everything from loose-fitting cashmere trousers to a suit. www.berluti.com.
The last meal that truly impressed me was at Septime in Paris’s 11th arrondissement. It’s industrial yet slightly rustic and has an imaginative menu and combinations of ingredients. I love vegetables and a recent beautifully minimalist supper included white asparagus, mountain spinach and steamed cod, all paired with natural wines. 80 Rue de Charonne, 75011 Paris(+331-4367 3829; www.septime-charonne.fr)
The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Anselm Kiefer. There is such great depth and passion in his brushwork, and I particularly love his very large paintings of flower fields that seem inspired by Van Gogh. His aquarelles are beautiful too, and I’ve been lucky enough to visit his studio and see him at work; it was an unforgettable experience.
The people I rely on for personal grooming are Philippe at the Christophe Robin salon at Hôtel Le Meurice – he often comes to me and knows exactly how to cut my hair – and any of the stylists at Rudy’s Barbershop on Sunset Boulevard, where the atmosphere is always lively. Christophe Robin, Hôtel Le Meurice, 228 Rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris (+331-4020 0283; www.christophe-robin.com). Rudy’s Barbershop, 4451 W Sunset Boulevard, CA 90027 (+1323-661 6535; www.rudysbarbershop.com).
My favourite room in my house is the kitchen. It’s where we spend most of our time as a family and we love to cook and really use the space. It’s modern with lots of natural light and the atmosphere is always very alive.
If I didn’t live in Paris, the city I would live in is LA. There is so much to do culturally and I particularly love the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, hearing the LA Philharmonic at the Hollywood Bowl and watching movies under the stars at the Hollywood Forever Cemetery. A great day starts with an Intelligentsia coffee, which is so much better than anything in Paris, followed by a walk in Griffith Park and around the Observatory. I also like the creative Spanish-fusion cuisine at Bäco Mercat downtown and the Sunset Tower Hotel and Soho House for their vibrant atmosphere. From the Frank Lloyd Wright houses to Pasadena City College flea market, there is so much to see and do in this magical, fascinating and colourful city, and yet its potential for growth seems limitless. Bäco Mercat, 408 S Main Street (+1213-687 8808; www.bacomercat.com). Griffith Park, 4730 Crystal Springs Drive (+1323-913 4688; www.laparks.org). Hollywood Forever Cemetery, 6000 Santa Monica Boulevard (+1323-469 1181; www.cinespia.org). Intelligentsia Coffee, www.intelligentsiacoffee.com. LA Philharmonic at the Hollywood Bowl, www.laphil.com. Los Angeles County Museum of Art, 5905 Wilshire Boulevard (+1323-857 6000; www.lacma.org). Pasadena Flea Market, 1570 E Colorado Boulevard (+1626-585 7906; www.pasadena.edu). Soho House West Hollywood, 9200 Sunset Boulevard (+1310-432 9200; www.sohohousewh.com). Sunset Tower Hotel, 8358 Sunset Boulevard (+1323-654 7100; www.sunsettowerhotel.com).
In my fridge you’ll always find hummus; assorted organic berries, milk and yoghurt for my son; a selection of cheeses from Terroirs d’Avenir, including a good blue and a Camembert; and whatever wild mushrooms are in season. I like cooking and mushrooms are a real favourite; I sautée morels or fry porcinis and often make fresh mushroom sauce for pasta. 6-8 Rue du Nil, 75002 Paris (+331-8170 9798; www.terroirs-avenir.fr).
The books on my bedside table include Dave Eggers’s A Heartbreaking Work of Staggering Genius; Rainer Maria Rilke’s Letters to a Young Poet; Jennifer Homans’s Apollo’s Angels: A History of Ballet; and Dancers, Buildings, and People in the Streets by dance critic Edwin Denby. Sergei Diaghilev’s biography is always there as well. I love it all – history, fiction, poetry – but I especially like reading about dance.
The objects I would never part with are a series of Irving Penn photographs of dancers that I’ve collected over time. They’re from his Ballet Society series in the 1940s and have a ghostly quality; the dancers look like angels. To me, these images embody ballet and I would love to add to them over time.
If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose the fourth arrondissement in Paris. This area in the Marais is packed with smaller stores including Christophe Lemaire’s boutique in a former pharmacy, which is full of the minimalist clothing I like. Then there’s Acne Studios and concept store Merci, which is an incredible place to find emerging designers, housewares and virtually everything else, plus I love its philanthropic angle. The vibrant Café Français – a brasserie facing the Opéra – is a great place for lunch. Acne Studios, 3 Rue Froissart (+331-4996 9691; www.acnestudios.com). Café Français, 1-3 Place de la Bastille (+331-4029 0402; www.cafe-francais.fr). Christophe Lemaire, 28 Rue de Poitou (+331-4478 0009; www.lemaire.fr). Merci, Boulevard Beaumarchais (+331- 4277 0033; www.merci-merci.com).
If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be an architect, pianist or conductor. Each discipline relates to what I do now, and I would love to conduct and interpret a score.
The Ascendance of Joseph Altuzarra
Exquisite tailoring and embellishment are the hallmarks of the young designer's ever-evolving aesthetic.
Exquisite tailoring and embellishment are the hallmarks of the young designer's ever-evolving aesthetic.
An acute eye for detail, texture, and color place Joseph Altuzarra in a league of his own. With ready-to-wear collections inspired by everything from 18th-century dandies, to Truman Capote’s stylish “swans,” to circa 1950 American railroad workers, New York–based Altuzarra is the thinking woman’s designer. His refined pieces—in a wide range of fabrics and finishes, including linen, leather, burlap, and velvet—all tell a visual story, and often incorporate parts of the designer’s Franco-American background, as well as his love of literature, film, and dance.
Raised in Paris by a Chinese-American mother and a French father, Altuzarra studied ballet before heading to the U.S. to pursue a degree in art history at Swarthmore College. It was through these studies that his eyes were opened to the world of fashion, one that he went on to learn about from the ground up, working at maisons on both sides of the Atlantic. With early experiences at Marc Jacobs and Proenza Schouler in New York, followed by an apprenticeship with patternmaker and former Rochas head Nicolas Caito, and after a role as first assistant to Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy, Altuzarra launched his eponymous line in 2008.
In just eight years the brand has become synonymous with feminine tailoring and a sophisticated-yet-playful aesthetic, with expansion continuing beyond the designer’s signature thigh-high slit skirts, vibrant silk blouses, flowy dresses, and fitted jackets. A minority investment by Kering in 2013 helped fuel the addition of a handbag line that includes a mix of casually structured shapes in everything from smooth calf to Sfumato leather to luxurious crocodile. It all culminated in 2014, when he was awarded the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s prestigious Womenswear Designer of the Year award.
Altuzarra’s spring/summer 2016 collection marks the next chapter in the designer’s multicultural, artistic exploration. It was the discovery of a book, Wilder Mann by Charles Fréger, featuring photographs of pagan rituals from the Basque region of France, that spurred the creation of this latest assortment of effortless, dip-dyed linen dresses and coats—as well as the exquisite mother of pearl and broderie anglaise embellishments that adorn them. Surface recently met with Altuzarra at his Soho atelier to discuss the influence of his banker parents, whom he credits with his pragmatism; his favorite campy films; and the role his husband, Seth Weissman, as well as friends including Alexander Wang and Vanessa Traina, play in his creative process.
You were born to a Chinese-American mother and French-Basque father. How does your background inform your design aesthetic?
It’s central to how I think about fashion and clothes and also my process. There is a duality between my French and American sides: I grew up in Paris surrounded by film and dance, so I have that French sensibility. On the other side, I’ve always been fascinated by American culture and the pragmatism, ease, and comfort it embodies. The marriage of these two sides of my personality is the Altuzarra brand.
I’ve read that you love film. Are there any movies that have been particularly impactful for you?
My parents love movies, and I grew up surrounded by all genres. One film that was particularly important was Si Versailles m’était conté [Royal Affairs in Versailles (1957)]. I watched this sprawling epic about life at Versailles over and over again, and the campy evolution of the costumes fascinated me. I also loved anything with Audrey Hepburn—Sabrina (1954) was a favorite—and tended toward less mainstream films as a teenager. Orlando (1992) had a huge effect on me because it was more ambiguous in its narrative.
Why did you choose to study at Swarthmore, and why art history?
Growing up bilingual with a Chinese-American mother, I always knew I wanted to study in the U.S. None of my classmates were going abroad for university at that time, and there were no SAT prep classes. I happened to see the film Ten Things I Hate About You (1999) in which the star ends up at Sarah Lawrence College. I looked it up online, and a box popped up saying, “If you like this school, you’ll also like Swarthmore, Amherst, Williams, Brown, and Haverford.” I applied to many of them, and one of my father’s colleagues suggested I go to Swarthmore. It was an incredible experience, as it was the first time I found my community—I was always nerdy in high school, and I finally felt free and surrounded by people like me. I loved studying art history: the analytical side of it, and the subjective way of looking at the world. I wrote an essay linking fashion advertising to classical art iconography, specifically about the influence of Toulouse-Lautrec on the Yves Saint Laurent Opium perfume advertisement with a naked Sophie Dahl. Art history spurred my love for fashion.
You had a very impressive CV prior to starting your own company. Did those experiences have an effect on the way you run your label?
When I worked at Proenza Schouler, there were just six people there, and I had no formal training or technical skills. I also apprenticed at Marc Jacobs just out of college, where I was lucky to be a part of that busy process. I went on to apprentice for Nicolas Caito at Rochas, where I learned the technical side of fashion design—pattern-making, draping—and this boosted my confidence greatly. Nicolas encouraged me to go back to Paris, where I met Riccardo [Tisci, creative director of Givenchy] and became his assistant for two years. I was so young and under-qualified, and he believed in me. He was a great mentor. I’m still incredibly grateful to him.
Your parents were both bankers and have been your biggest supporters. How did their business acumen help to launch the Altuzarra brand?
They made me a business-minded person, and I have always loved that side of the Altuzarra brand. My goal is success in design, but I always strive for financial success as well. Their involvement from the beginning—in the recession of 2008, no less—created a culture of frugality and an awareness of what we were spending. My mother, Karen, was the CEO of the brand for the first four years, before transitioning to our current CEO, Karis Durmer. My mom is still the chairman of the board and is actively involved in all aspects of the brand.
What was the inspiration for your first collection? Did you see a void in the market?
My first collection [spring/summer 2009] was born out of my wanting to create clothes that were sophisticated yet sexy, for a changing consumer. I was seeing women who were aging differently—through different nutrition and exercise—who wanted to be seductive and strong, but in an adult way. I saw women identifying with Meryl Streep, for example, who wanted to be the romantic lead in their own lives. That thought process has been the through-line for every collection since. Bottom line: Women want to be beautiful, not frumpy.
You create sophisticated, sexy clothes that combine a French and American sensibility. Is there a core customer? A muse?
[Stylists] Vanessa Traina and Melanie Huynh have been supporters since the very first season and represent the Altuzarra woman to me. These are women in their 30s, balancing full lives, who have an exacting, sophisticated sensibility. These women continue to inspire me, as do women like Julianne Moore and Nicole Kidman, who possess inherent style and self-confidence.
Who were your earliest champions?
Carine Roitfeld [former editor of Vogue Paris] has been an incredible mentor from the very beginning, even before my first collection. Mark Holgate is a great mentor and friend who set up my first meeting with Anna Wintour [editor of Vogue]. Funny story about my initial meeting with Anna: I was supposed to meet and present my collection to her the day after flying from Paris to New York, but the airline lost everything. She was gracious about rescheduling and has been an incredible supporter ever since. She called and got us into places like Barneys and Dover Street Market and really helped to launch the Altuzarra brand.
You’ve been the recipient of numerous awards: the CFDA Swarovski Award for Womenswear Design in 2012, the CFDA/ Vogue Fashion Fund Award in 2011, the CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year Award in 2014. Which one has been the most meaningful?
The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award in 2011 was a huge moment for me because it was a competition: months of work and dedication went into the process, and ultimately, it put us on the map.
You’ve designed costumes for the New York City Ballet. Would you like to do more theatrical design?
That collaboration came about through a summer share in Fire Island several years ago. My husband and I were in a house with choreographer Christopher Wheeldon, who was working with the New York City Ballet at the time. I’ve always loved ballet and studied dance throughout my childhood, so when he asked if I might be interested in designing costumes I jumped at the chance. I went to all of the rehearsals and saw the choreography in progress, and we came up with a very American, casual look for this piece, one that was all about light, flirty garments that would highlight the movement of the dancers.
You’ve collaborated with Target and J. Crew, among other brands. What makes such projects interesting?
As the winner of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award, I was invited to collaborate with J. Crew on a collection of six pieces—a dress, shirts, sweaters, shoes—that were inspired by a preppy American aesthetic, but also by Breton stripes and French gingham. I wanted to play with the codes of prep, and also introduce Brigitte Bardot shapes and 1950s styling to a wider audience.
What made the sale of a minority stake to Kering particularly interesting to you?
I was approached by [Kering CEO François Henri] Pinault, who is a wonderful person and has respect for designers and their process. I felt that he loved our brand and could add value, and the partnership has been hugely beneficial to us. From the logistics of production teams in Italy, to helping with the development of our handbags, to expertise in margins and world geographies, we’re always learning from Kering.
Last fall saw the launch of your first collection of handbags, inspired by bull riding whips from the American Southwest. What do you love about their hand-woven details?
It was our first product extension, so it had to embody the core values of Altuzarra. I wanted the bags to have a French/American duality, and also to be sexy with an easy sensibility. I didn’t want them to be hard or structured, and I was focused on incorporating folkloric craft. I found the braided whips while researching online and fell in love with the handcrafted aesthetic, as well as their sturdiness and practicality.
What was the inspiration for the hardware and the handles? Do these elements fuse your love of things both French and American?
The ends of cigarette lighters were the inspiration for the gold hardware on the bags, and this is definitely the French influence. The closures and handles were inspired by equestrian life, specifically American horse culture. I have incorporated elements of the New Mexican riding whips into everything from hobo bags to cross-body versions.
With a bag, form follows function—what makes your elegant yet utilitarian bags work?
I wanted the bags to be beautiful, but ultimately they have to work for today’s busy, professional, stylish woman. The braiding of the straps needs to be soft and malleable, handles need to fit over bulky coats, and they often need to hold heavy things like laptops, so they need to be sturdy. And I was adamant about them being easy to open and close with one hand. The bags feature inside/outside zips, light linen insides so that finding keys is easy, and covered magnet closures that actually work but also look good.
What bag shapes will we see next and in what leathers?
The first bags were less structured, more casual, while the next version will be a more formal shoulder bag in smooth calf.
What has been the most challenging part of handbag design? Was there something you didn’t know going in?
When designing clothes, you aren’t always thinking about functionality first. With handbags, however, you can’t design unless you know how the person will use it. Will it hold an iPhone? A computer? Papers? I also didn’t know much about attaching handles and the importance of a swivel feature.
Your husband works in property development in New York. How did you meet?
We met 10 years ago, were friends for five years, and we married in 2014. One anecdote that gives insight into his personality is the story of our engagement. Every Saturday morning we walk our dog, Bean, and one of us goes for coffee and the newspapers. On this particular Saturday, Seth went out, changed into a tuxedo, and put a “Will you marry me?” collar on the dog. I said yes, of course, and was greeted by the Swarthmore a cappella group singing “A Whole New World.” From there we went to Soho House for a surprise engagement brunch for 100 friends. The entire day was spectacular.
While you aren’t particularly part of a flashy fashion party set, many of your friends—Alexander Wang, Christopher Turnier, Vanessa Traina—are involved in that world. How were these friendships formed, and why do you choose to lay low?
Part of it comes from knowing that the fashion world is fickle. I want my happiness to be predicated on things outside of the industry. I think it’s important to have deep, real, long-lasting friendships that I don’t have to put on Instagram. I’m lucky to have friends who are true and constant.
If you had to pick three items you would never part with, what would they be?
My platinum engagement ring by James de Givenchy engraved with the lyrics to “Come Rain or Come Shine,” which was our wedding song. Another precious object is a Hermès diary given to me by mother when I was 18. It’s embossed with my initials and is now full of sketches. The last thing isn’t an item or an object, but is Bean, our almost-8-year-old mini-schnauzer.
What’s next for you?
I’m a slow and steady person. I believe you have to be careful and deliberate about what you put out there. That said, our next area of focus would likely be shoes, where I’d like to expand dramatically.
Rebecca Vizard: upscale upcycling
Ornate antique textiles reinvented as chic cushions
Ornate antique textiles reinvented as chic cushions
“I love taking something intricate and frilly and paring it down to make it sleek and contemporary,” says textile designer Rebecca Vizard of the exquisite pillows she creates using antique fabric fragments – from Aubusson tapestries and Fortuny damasks to Flemish ecclesiastical vestments and Ottoman gold embroideries.
It’s a passion that began with a visit to the Porte de Vanves flea market in Paris, where she was introduced to dazzling fabric remnants from Holland, Belgium and Italy. “I’m in awe of Renaissance textiles. I salvage pieces, restore them using threads with the right patina, and then rearrange them into different compositions and patterns,” she explains.
From her studio in northern Louisiana, Vizard – along with her team of seamstresses – makes bespoke pieces that grace chic apartments in Manhattan and London, as well as royal residences in Abu Dhabi. Her commissions for private clients and high-profile decorators such as Bunny Williams take many forms, including bolsters in shades of French blue, rose and ochre, all embellished with vintage thread.
It is her pillows, however, that are most sought-after – in particular her elongated designs (examples in first picture, from $2,000, and second picture, $1,825), often 1m or more in length, that accent couches and beds. Simpler decorative squares (example in third picture,$2,175) in muted velvets and rich, nubby linens are handcrafted using long, narrow strips from Italian vestments. Some cushions (from $3,600) even feature extremely rare, fragile fabrics such as a 17th-century Italian fragment depicting an Ionic column – beautifully framed for posterity.
Striking straw marquetry: Christophe Pourny
Cultivating a big voilà! moment upon walking into a room
Cultivating a big voilà! moment upon walking into a room
“Straw marquetry is so unique, so precise, that no two pieces will ever be the same,” says French-born, Brooklyn-based furniture designer and restorer Christophe Pourny, “which makes it an attractive prospect for the person who wants a truly bespoke finish, texture, and surface.”
Inspired by the midcentury work of French interior designer Jean-Michel Frank, Pourny’s talent for lacquer work, inlay and traditional straw marquetry – working in handcut rye straw sourced from Burgundy and Brittany – is realised both through close collaborations with interior designers such as David Kleinberg, Jamie Drake and Thierry Morali, as well as by working on commissioned pieces for private clients – from cigar boxes ($1,000) to entire rooms (from $100,000).
The process typically takes two to three months, depending on the size and scope of work. Popular requests are for accent tables and consoles ($15,000), entertainment centres ($25,000) and night stands ($5,000) with exquisite, iridescent patterns in chevrons, fans, circles, sunbursts and, in the case of bespoke boxes, monograms or crests – in hues that range from the palest gold to rich, dark brown. Larger projects have included a foyer in Bratislava, a powder room ($20,000) in New York, and elevator doors and wall panelling for one London client “who wanted that big voilà! moment upon entry”, says Pourny.
He has also seen an uptick in requests from yacht owners who appreciate the “enduring finish that requires no maintenance. Straw is coated in silica that makes it naturally water resistant so no varnish or oil is required.”
For Pourny, the joy comes from “transforming what might be an ordinary piece of furniture into a stunner using an unexpected finish”. Indeed, the unexpected is what drives him to imaginative new heights: “My passion for such historical methods has taught me how to take creative licence when a piece merits it.”
Not the Georgetown of Your Youth: The Very Grown-Up Capella Hotel
Capella is a charming new addition to the Washington, DC, hotel scene. Guest services are at a premium, and the staff knows how to make a stay feel special but never ostentatious.
WASHINGTON, DC – It had been years since I’d spent any real time in Georgetown, the quaint Washington, D.C., neighborhood of cobblestone streets and picturesque row houses, and I was pleased to see that it has retained its charm even as it’s been spiffed up in recent years. I went in expecting the M Street of my youth — a main drag cluttered with chain stores and tourists — and instead found a contender for my new favorite urban hotel, excellent restaurants, and quiet, atmospheric side streets at every turn.
CHECKING IN
Overview
It used to be that a luxury stay in Georgetown was synonymous with The Four Seasons, a hotel long considered a DC power breakfast spot with a killer, central location. Now there is a new, design-led addition to the five-star hotel scene, the quietly cool Capella Hotel just down the street.
With 49 sumptuously appointed rooms, the high-touch, boutique escape is tucked away next to the historic C&O Canal Towpath. It feels like a luxurious homestay — albeit one with an excellent restaurant, a rooftop terrace with sweeping views of the Potomac, a state-of-the-art fitness facility, and a staff of knowledgeable personal assistants at your beck and call. I spent 24 blissful hours here and I can’t stop raving about it to anyone who will listen.
Claims to Fame
There are so many special touches at Capella, and they begin from the minute you check in at — get this! — whatever time you choose. There is no need to request an early check-in or a late check-out because the management believes that their customer wants flexibility above all else. I tested the system by arriving at 11 a.m. and was whisked to my room without delay. There is no traditional registration. Guests are somehow knowingly greeted curbside and all paperwork is handled in a discreet, pleasant way in a casual living room setting.
The property’s sleek, modern finishes, courtesy of designer Peter Sillig, include exquisite marble floors and paneling, parquet floors reclaimed from a European schloss, and a stellar contemporary art collection with works by abstract expressionists Edvins Strautmanis and Markus Lupertz and sculptures by English artist, Collin Reid, to name a few.
From the Living Room, with its eighteen-foot ceilings, to the Grill Room, a destination restaurant, to the clubby, cozy Rye Bar that draws a discreet, local crowd, the Capella feels like a hidden gem. Yet it is mere steps from the bustling intersection in the heart of Georgetown, M Street, and Wisconsin Avenue.
What’s on Site
The area is culturally rich — Georgetown University, The Kennedy Center, the Smithsonian museums — so, of course, you must leave the premises, but you will be hard-pressed to do so. Capella is just so peaceful, so cossetting, that it makes for a perfectly self-contained 48-hour stay.
The private rooftop lounge has an indoor/outdoor pool and a fire pit. Rye Bar on the first floor offers an excellent selection of craft cocktails and rare whiskeys to whet the appetite for the Grill Room next door. The soothing dining room — all hues of grey and aubergine — serves breakfast, lunch, brunch (that must be booked well in advance), and formal dinner.
I found the fitness facilities to be sufficient — an elliptical machine, a treadmill, and a bike overlooking the spires of Georgetown University and the National Cathedral. The truly motivated can go to a yoga studio and a more comprehensive gym nearbby.
There is no spa by design, as the management decided that in-room services were preferable for their clientele, but everything, from a simple pedicure to a haircut by noted stylist Luigi Parasmo, can be arranged with a few hours notice. Resident stylist April Yvonne is at the ready if the need arises for a frock to wear to the Kennedy Center or for after-hours access to Neiman Marcus. A personal assistant on staff specializes in cultural experiences like walk-on roles for children at The Washington Ballet and behind-the-scenes tours of Mount Vernon. In short, every request can be accommodated.
Perhaps the biggest on site asset is Jason Denby, director of guest relations, who is incredibly attuned to his guests’ needs and knows how to make a stay feel special but never ostentatious.
The Food
One of the stars of the show at Capella is The Grill Room, a modern European restaurant with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the C&O Canal. Outdoor seating (with wool blankets and heat lamps when it’s chilly) lend it a European vibe, and executive chef Frank Ruta (formerly of the White House) creates everything from a terrific burger with shoestring fries to a refined Dover sole with passionfruit sabayon, leeks, and pea shoots. Familiar comfort foods — a wedge salad, thick cut pork chops — are thoughtfully tweaked and paired with delicious sides like oven-roasted potatoes and root vegetables drizzled with a warm anchovy balsamic vinaigrette.
A private dining room that seats up to eighteen guests is set like a glass-walled library at the center of the restaurant and would be a wonderful place to host a special event. Light bites — plates of salumi to share, artisanal cheeses, and freshly baked chocolate chip cookies — are available in The Rye Bar. Oh, and room service delivers a mean pasta Bolognese, as confirmed by my hungry teen who ordered it at an insane hour.
In the Room
All the rooms and suites have a separate sitting area with desk, a soaking tub, flat screen TVs, plush beds, and comfortable furnishings in shades of cream and grey.
Spacious bathrooms have two sinks, plentiful mirrors, and rainfall showers and some have canal views. Other thoughtful touches include free WiFi, beverages, and newspapers of choice, as well as coffees, teas, and Keurig machines for brewing at all hours.
Room with a View
I stayed in a superior king room, a spacious 420 square feet overlooking 31st Street and the hotel entrance. This doesn’t sound lovely, but it was surprisingly quiet and there was abundant light. I liked seeing the small Italian restaurant across the street and the Potomac River in the distance.
In an ideal world, I’d love to stay in one of two 1,200 square-feet Presidential Suites ($7,000 per night) for the full living rooms, stocked pantry areas, fireplaces, and, yes, the expansive views.
This Place Is Perfect For
Business travelers, parents dropping kids off at Georgetown University, foodies, families who need large suites and interconnecting rooms, and couples looking for a romantic getaway. Capella has seriously wide appeal, and can work for a solo traveler as well as it did for the multi-generational family celebration that prompted my visit.
But Not So Perfect For
Anyone looking for a scene or travelers who like a sprawling hotel with all the bells and whistles.
Rates
Superior king rooms start at $495 a night.
CHECKING OUT
Neighborhood Vibe
Georgetown is a bustling, walkable, college town. Get out and enjoy it.
What to Do Nearby
One block from the hotel is busy M Street, which has all the basics: pharmacies, Dean & Deluca (excellent spot for picnic provisions), lots of shops. A few more blocks away are N and O Streets, with their sweet, historic brick homes and well-manicured trees. Still further is Dumbarton Oaks, a stately house museum with gardens that makes for a great wander before hitting the Georgetown University campus at the corner of 37th and O Streets.
DC’s biggest annual events are the Cherry Blossom Festival, which begins at the end of March and is an occasion for an array of cultural activities as well as beautiful blooms, and the Fourth of July fireworks from the Mall, which some of the best in the country. July 4 guests will have a perfect, calm vantage point — cocktail in hand — from the Capella’s rooftop terrace.
Food is a major area focus. Nearby Fiola Mare in Georgetown Harbor serves incredible Italian seafood along the Potomac. Chez Billy Sud is a lovely spot for an intimate French meal. Café Milano is the go-to for all kinds of crudi. Obelisk in nearby Dupont Circle serves simple Italian fare in a charming townhouse setting. Sushi Taro offers a traditional kaiseki experience. Gourmands should take advantage of Capella’s ability to score a reservation at Minibar, molecular gastronomist José Andrés’ superb but tiny restaurant that offers a multi-course, fully immersive dining extravaganza.
Good to Know
Consult the Georgetown University schedule to avoid Parent’s Weekend and graduation. Also, get comfortable with taxis and walking everywhere, as the DC Metro doesn’t stop in the vicinity.
PLAN YOUR TRIP
How to Get There
The Capella is a fifteen-minute taxi ride from Union Station (Amtrak) and Washington Reagan International Airport. The hotel’s personal assistants are very good at gauging traffic patterns and arranging taxis accordingly. When possible, they will have you driven in the hotel’s complimentary car that waits outside.
Getting Around
Parking in this part of Washington is a nightmare, so it’s best to explore the area on foot. Excellent restaurants, the scenic C&O Canal, the Georgetown University campus, and the particularly lovely N and O streets are all just a few blocks away.
Bobbi Brown talks personal taste: Part One
Bobbi Brown’s cosmetics brand brings in over 10 per cent of parent company Estée Lauder’s annual revenues
Bobbi Brown’s cosmetics brand brings in over 10 per cent of parent company Estée Lauder’s annual revenues
My personal style signifiers are dark-framed glasses of my own design worn with a black jacket – Chanel or Barneys own label – and tailored black jeans; I have more than 30 pairs and like Rag & Bone. I also always wear a watch – a sporty Cartier on a black strap or my new Apple Watch by Hermès.www.apple.com. www.barneys.com. www.chanel.com. www.hermes.com. www.rag-bone.com.
An indulgence I would never forgo is really good Casa Dragones Joven tequila [pictured]. It’s made from pure blue agave and comes in a beautiful crystal decanter – but at $275 a bottle it’s definitely an indulgence. www.casadragones.com.
The last music I downloaded was for my upbeat playlist that I listen to when I run – Pitbull’s Time Of Our Lives, Jay Z’s Magna Carta Holy Grail, Biggie Smalls’ Mo Money Mo Problems and Jeremih’s Don’t Tell ’Em. I love rap and hip hop.
The last thing I bought and loved was a Lanvin navy cardigan with rhinestone buttons. I found it at Jeffrey, a boutique in New York’s Meatpacking District; it was the only piece that called my name. It is one of Alber Elbaz’s last designs for Lanvin – part of design history. 449 W 14th St, New York, NY 10014 (+1212-206 1272; www.jeffreynewyork.com). www.lanvin.com.
And the thing I’m eyeing next is a red buffalo and pebble-leather tote with detachable clutch by Seattle-based Ampersand As Apostrophe. I have a bag obsession – lightweight ones without obvious logos – and like to support niche brands. $609; www.ampersandasapostrophe.com.
The site that inspires me is Baker’s Bay [pictured] in the Bahamas. We are building a home there and the peaceful surroundings, turquoise water and white sandy beaches are very calming.
The books on my bedside table are often memoirs and currently include At Liberty: From Rehab to the Front Row by Liberty’s managing director Ed Burstell, and A Chance in the World [pictured] by Steve Pemberton, the story of a man who rose from broken foster home to Fortune 50 executive. It’s inspirational.
The best souvenir I’ve brought home is a vintage Louis Vuitton trunk [pictured] from Grays antiques in London. My husband and I bought it on the way to the airport with no time to overthink its price or practicality. It is one of my favourite pieces and serves as a coffee table in our living room. 58 Davies St, London W1 (020-7629 7034; www.graysantiques.com).
Objects I would never part with are framed photos of my sons – Dylan [25], Dakota [23] and Duke [17] – given to me by my husband for Mother’s Day. The beautiful silver frames hold the first picture taken of each child – they’re incredibly special.
The beauty staples I’m never without include my own Intensive Skin Serum Concealer, my “desert island cosmetic” that leaves my skin looking like I’ve had eight hours sleep; Bumble and Bumble’s Mending Shampoo and Conditioner, excellent for colour-treated hair; Tweezerman tweezers for their precision; and fragrance – one of my own, or Chanel No 5 or Cristalle, which are light and fresh. Bobbi Brown Intensive Skin Serum Concealer, £28 for 7ml; www.bobbibrown.co.uk. Bumble and Bumble Mending Shampoo, £23 for 250ml, and Conditioner, £25 for 250ml; www.bumbleandbumble.co.uk. Chanel Cristalle, £52 for 50ml EDP, and No 5, £68 for 50ml EDP; www.chanel.com. Tweezerman tweezers, £19; www.tweezerman.co.uk.
The last meal that truly impressed me was at RL in Chicago. The decor is perfect – clubby with rich fabrics and oil paintings. We had oysters with mignonette granité, followed by incredible Dover sole; they make a mean martini too. Chicago is my hometown and I’m friends with the Lauren family, so this place is very special to me. 115 E Chicago Ave, Chicago, IL 60611 (+1312-475 1100; www.rlrestaurant.com).
My favourite websites include NYTimes.com, WSJ.com and FT.com for hard news, and Thecoveteur.com for the latest beauty products and trends. Twitter is my first check of the day; if any news is breaking, I’ll learn about it here. www.twitter.com.
Bobbi Brown talks personal taste: Part Two
The cosmetics doyenne concludes her compendium of passions with shopping in SoHo, her love affair with London and the wellbeing treatments she can’t live without
The cosmetics doyenne concludes her compendium of passions with shopping in SoHo, her love affair with London and the wellbeing treatments she can’t live without
My style icon is Phoebe Philo. I like her simple aesthetic: a shirt is a shirt and a pair of trousers is a pair of trousers, but with her flawless design and fabric choices these pieces become special. She carries herself beautifully too and I think she is a wonderful role model – a working mother who puts her family first. To me, she embodies effortless, timeless style.
The best gift I’ve given recently was a series of portraits by photographer Henry Leutwyler, to my friend John Demsey [group president of Estée Lauder]. Leutwyler photographed his four-year-old daughter as a surprise. www.henryleutwyler.com.
And the best one I’ve received recently was a pair of delicate hoop earrings with clusters of dangling pearls by my favourite jewellery designer Ted Muehling. I have an incredible collection of his things – strands of pearls in rosy pink and opalescent colours; simple brushed-gold earrings – and they often inspire my make-up colours and collections. www.tedmuehling.com.
An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year was Biarritz with my whole family, including my three grown sons and their girlfriends. There is nothing better than a beachy vacation with French food and we ate delicious seafood in atmospheric seaside restaurants like Le Surfing. It was a very relaxing, special trip. 9 Boulevard Prince de Galles, 64200 Biarritz (+3355-924 7872; www.lesurfing.fr).
The people I rely on for personal grooming and wellbeing include my osteopath, Dr Erik Steiner, whose bi-weekly sessions keep me perfectly aligned with just 45 minutes of gentle manipulation. Then there’s my manicurist, Roza Israel, who comes to our offices weekly and is available to all our staff, and my hairstylist Marissa Martoni at Marie Robinson; she’s been cutting my hair for years and I trust her completely. I also have regular Chinese massages at a small and non-descript salon near my house; I love the low-key atmosphere and the fact that I don’t have to book it in advance. Dr Erik Steiner, 41 Union Square West, New York, NY 10003 (+1212-227 6967; www.eriksteinerwellness.com). Marie Robinson Salon, 10th floor, 40 W 25th St, New York, NY 10010 (+1212- 358 7780; www.marierobinsonsalon.com). Roza Israel, rozaisrael@yahoo.com.
A recent “find” is Sant Ambroeus restaurant on Lafayette Street near our offices in New York. It’s been open for a while but is only now coming onto my radar. I love everything about the place – the warm atmosphere, the simple-yet-delicious food, the excellent people-watching. The owner is an amazing host. 265 Lafayette Street, New York, NY 10012 (+1212-966 2770; www.santambroeus.com).
If I didn’t live in Montclair, New Jersey, the city I would live in is London because I am something of an Anglophile. I would love to live in Mayfair, at the Connaught, with its wonderful bar and special fresh-ginger tea. I like the beautiful architecture in this area and its proximity to Hyde Park, where I’d go running. Scott’s is one of my favourite restaurants in the world and I love the beautiful salads and grains at both The Detox Kitchen and Ottolenghi. I’m also a big fan of the theatre and living here would make seeing the latest plays much easier. The Connaught, Carlos Place (020-7499 7070; www.the-connaught.co.uk). Detox Kitchen, 10 Kingly Street (020-7439 9386; www.detoxkitchen.co.uk). Ottolenghi, 13 Motcomb Street (020-7823 2707; www.ottolenghi.co.uk). Scott’s, 20 Mount Street (020-7495 7309; www.scotts-restaurant.com).
The last thing I added to my wardrobe was a pair of black suede platform boots by Flamingos. I’m typically a sneaker girl and love comfortable footwear, but sometimes I need a bit of height. These boots have a thick rubber sole and can be worn with everything from Acne jeans to black Nili Lotan pants. £300; www.fwrd.com.
In my fridge you’ll always find almond milk for my morning espressos and freshly squeezed lemon juice for my husband’s hot-water infusions. There’ll be eggs, all kinds of berries for smoothies and, typically, the makings of a casual dinner – a roast chicken from Whole Foods, Rao’s pasta sauce, kale for a salad – and San Pellegrino grapefruit soda, which the whole family likes mixed with sparkling water. www.raos.com. www.sanpellegrinofruitbeverages.com. www.wholefoodsmarket.com.
My favourite room in my house is my bedroom. It’s a soothing space – very open and full of serene whites and greys. I like to retreat here to read and watch TV, usually at the same time, before drifting off to sleep.
The artists whose work I would collect if I could include Banksy, Jean-Michel Basquiat and Andy Warhol. I love the colour, composition and openness of pop art, and while the vibrancy isn’t in keeping with my personal aesthetic, I find their work very stirring.
If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose SoHo in New York; I love the street life in this area and the high-low mix of stores. There’s Acne Studios and Maison Margiela for shoes and Steven Alan for its clothing edit. The spare Céline store on Wooster Street is my go-to for timeless pieces and I like J Crew for basics such as cashmere sweaters. Equinox has an excellent selection of freshly squeezed juices and raw foods and Balthazar is the best for delicious take away salads. Acne Studios, 33 Greene Street (+1212-334 8345; www.acnestudios.com).Balthazar, 80 Spring Street (+1212-965 1414; www.balthazarny.com). Céline, 67 Wooster Street (+1212-226 8001; www.celine.com). Equinox, 69 Prince Street (+1212-334 4631; www.equinox.com). J Crew, 99 Prince Street (+1212-966 2739; www.jcrew.com). Maison Margiela, 91 Grand Street (+1646-781 7852; www.maisonmargiela.com). Steven Alan, 230 Elizabeth Street (+1212-343 7974; www.stevenalan.com).
If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be a chef. I like simple, great-tasting food that makes you look and feel good and I’d love to be able to cook on a regular basis. This is a huge area of interest for me, so much so that I’m signed up for cooking classes with Lily Kunin, founder of Clean Food, Dirty City, where I hope to learn to make delicious, plant-based meals. www.cleanfooddirtycity.com.
The Elder Statesman
The cashmere faithful flock to this 1950s West Hollywood bungalow for casual cool pieces inspired by beach culture
The cashmere faithful flock to this 1950s West Hollywood bungalow for casual cool pieces inspired by beach culture
Acashmere jumper may be a tried and tested Christmas gift, but at The Elder Statesman it comes with a cool California twist. The luxury lifestyle label founded in 2007 by laid-back LA designer Greg Chait (first picture) takes its name – and ethos – from 18th-century British parliamentarian William Pitt. “I was inspired by his no-nonsense approach, and everything we make is similarly straightforward,” says the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner.
And his spare and striking shop in a 1950s West Hollywood bungalow is an extension of this design standpoint. The 1,600sq ft space today showcases Chait’s beach-culture-inspired pieces – from striped monochrome Picasso Crewnecks ($1,165) to the woven Cutter T-shirts ($895) in shades of magenta and royal blue – against white stucco walls and clean-lined blond-wood fixtures and furniture.
“I wanted a retail space with a sense of discovery,” says Chait, who collaborated with Commune Design, the local architects behind the Ace hotels, on the Zen, copper-roofed structure, complete with enormous pivoting windows and a desert garden. Amid the cacti and olive trees is a cushion-circled fire pit, encouraging visitors to lounge and linger. But despite the design credentials and midcentury-modern feel, the boutique is essentially a blank canvas for Chait to focus on exquisitely fine yarn – made in Italy and Scotland, hand‑spun in Mongolia, and loomed, knitted, linked and embellished at The Elder Statesman’s factory in nearby Culver City. “Ninety-five per cent of our pieces are made in LA; 100 per cent come through our hands for quality control,” he adds.
The Baja Pullover ($2,140) is the brand’s signature sweater, a slightly oversized hoodie ranging from muted beige to vibrant, dip-dyed indigo; the Favorite Tee ($445), with its relaxed silhouette, is another unisex, year-round classic. Bolder seasonal knits include a tie-dyed heavy cardigan in ivory and maroon ($915), and felted sweatshirts ($1,354) and T-shirts ($540) created in collaboration with the Los Angeles Contemporary Museum of Art; inspired by the Granville Redmond painting California Poppy Field, they combine floral patterns and bold text with classic sportswear shapes and raw edges.
And it’s not just tops. Weighty cashmere blankets (from $3,360, second picture) and enormous, cosseting quilts (from $8,895) nestle next to sumptuous socks ($275). Art tomes from nearby Arcana books and buffalo-horn sunglasses ($1,995) from Germany round out the casually cool offerings. “My clients range from 20 to 80 years old, and typically they cross over with brands such as Céline, The Row and Rick Owens. They don’t need labels and are attracted to products with soul,” says Chait of the cashmere faithful who pilgrimage from Paris and Hong Kong as well as nearby Beverly Hills.
“I want my customers to feel that an Elder Statesman sweater is their favourite thing in their closet,” says Chait. “Everything is made in the best possible way – from the cashmere products to the clean-lined space. We didn’t cut any corners here, and I hope people walk away with a good vibe.”
Angela Missoni talks personal taste: Part One
Angela Missoni is creative director of her family’s knitwear brand, loved for its psychedelic zig-zags and vibrant colour
Angela Missoni is creative director of her family’s knitwear brand, loved for its psychedelic zig-zags and vibrant colour
My personal style signifiers are the long gold chains with pendants I collect and have worn every day for the past 15 years. I like to be inventive with my jewellery and often add charms or beads to necklaces and dangly earrings, and I always wear stacks of silver filigree and gold rings on at least six or seven of my fingers.
The last thing I bought and loved was a classic Persian carpet [pictured] with the words “Good ideas come through freedom” burned into the fibres, by Italian artist Loredana Longo. It is beautiful and inspirational. www.loredanalongo.com.
And the thing I’m eyeing next is a tree house for my home in Sumirago, outside Milan. I have always loved the idea of a secret escape and just this morning, walking in my garden, I found the perfect tree for it. My grandson, Otto, will love it too.
A recent “find” is La Baia di Moltrasio, a bar and restaurant at the top of a local rowing club on Lake Como. The terrace is very romantic in the summer months and long tables are set up inside during colder weather too. It is all about the food here and their fresh fish grilled with butter and herbs and the local speciality, riso in cagnone [rice fried with butter and sage], are the best I’ve ever tasted. Via Bellini 4, 22010 Moltrasio (+39031-376 093; www.labaiadimoltrasio.com).
The last items I added to my wardrobe were a pair of lime-green Nike Flyknit trainers [pictured]. I’d been eyeing them for a while and walking all over Milan in high heels during Fashion Week finally clinched the deal. I love the bright colour and knitted design. £130; www.nike.com.
An object I would never part with is a painting that once hung in my grandmother’s house and was given to me by a dear aunt. It is of a young girl from the 1950s and I like that it now hangs next to a colourful contemporary Tracey Emin piece in my house.
An indulgence I would never forgo is time spent at the Sofitel Quiberon Thalassa Sea & Spa [pictured] in Brittany. I have been going to this magnetic place for years; it is one of my favourite spots in the world because of the scenery – the rocks and beaches are spectacular – and the thalassotherapy massages, salt scrubs and seaweed wraps. It’s a very healthy, holistic place – not a beauty spa or a place of deprivation – and I always leave feeling refreshed, energised and a bit slimmer. It is one of the only spas I know that also appeals to men, which makes it a wonderful escape for my partner Bruno and I. Boulevard Louison Bobet, 56170 Quiberon (+332-9750 4888; www.thalassa.com).
The last music I downloaded was Wicked Game by Chris Isaak [pictured]. The song is old but I love the tune and the lyrics; it figured prominently in my last fashion show.
The beauty staples I’m never without are traditional hammam gloves and Tunisian black soap, which I use daily to exfoliate, and Louis Widmer’s Remederm Shower Oil, which is good for sensitive skin and leaves me feeling very moisturised. £8 for 150ml; www.louis‑widmer.nl.
If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose the 5Vie art and design district in Milan. I love Wait and See, an eclectic clothes shop in a former 18th-century convent that sells a mix of emerging designers and vintage finds from all over the world. And Rossana Orlandi – a magical design gallery set in a garden courtyard – is a treasure trove of new and classic pieces. Afterwards, a stop at La Latteria nearby is a must; it’s a tiny, authentic place with only about eight tables and they serve delicious traditionally Milanese riso al salto – risotto fritters. La Latteria San Marco, Via S Marco 24 (+3902-659 7653). Rossana Orlandi, Via Matteo Bandello 14/16 (+3902-467 4471; www.rossanaorlandi.com). Wait and See, Via Santa Marta 14 (+3902-7208 0195; www.waitandsee.it).
My favourite websites are the Business of Fashion for industry news; Corriere della Sera and The New York Times for current affairs; and Internazionale for the best articles from all over the world. I am also a huge fan of Instagram. www.businessoffashion.com. www.corriere.it. www.internazionale.it. www.instagram.com. www.nytimes.com.
Angela Missoni talks personal taste: Part Two
The fashion designer sews up her list of likes with surrealist art, elaborate saris from Rajasthan and shopping in Saint Germain
The fashion designer sews up her list of likes with surrealist art, elaborate saris from Rajasthan and shopping in Saint Germain
My style icon is my mother Rosita, who at 84 years old is still the chicest person I know. She always looks great – even at the market or at home watching television – with her perfect hair, beautiful earrings and casual yet elegant wardrobe. I have always been a bit wilder in my look but wish I could be as naturally stylish as she is. I also admire Joyce Ma – the 1970s fashion icon who had a great eye for avant-garde design – and Carine Roitfeld who has a very distinctive aesthetic.
The best gift I’ve given recently was a series of three simple gold bangles from the 1950s, to my daughter Teresa for her birthday. I found them at a shop in Venice that was going out of business. They have large charms with the Pope’s face on them and are quite quirky and wonderful.
And the best ones I’ve received recently are, from my other daughter Margherita, a cheeky embroidered bra she transformed into a lampshade; a special glass box installation piece from Teresa; and my partner Bruno gave me a Brassaï photograph of a woman’s body in a frame engraved with a design by Picasso at the top. I cherish all three.
The last meal that truly impressed me was at Da Pasqualina, a small rustic restaurant in Murta Maria in Sardinia. The way they cook here is magical – everything is very simple yet delicious, with an emphasis on pasta and fresh fish. The best dish is spaghetti with local sea urchin. Via dello Zenzero, Murta Maria, Olbia, Sardinia (+390789-36808).
The sight that inspires me is the view of the mountains from my home in Sumirago, outside Milan. I always position myself in places with a view, and the Alps as seen from my bedroom are completely reinvigorating. Monte Rosa – or Pink Mountain – is especially beautiful at dawn when the reflection of the sun casts a dusky rose over the Lombard Alps.
In my fridge you’ll always find a selection of cheeses and salami, and a bottle of Vermentino, a white wine from Sardinia. Everything else I like to buy fresh on the day.
The artists whose work I would collect if I could are pioneers of surrealism Salvador Dalí and Joan Miró, whose work I find fascinating. They are far too expensive now, but I’d like the contrast these works would provide with the pieces by Jenny Holzer, Francesco Vezzoli and Tracey Emin that hang in my home.
An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is India, and specifically Rajasthan. Everything about this country is magical: the ambience, the vivid colours, the geography, the deep traditions, the delicious food and the artisans and craftspeople who really know the true meaning of luxury. I was fascinated by the different textiles and embroideries, especially the beautiful white cotton dhotis and elaborate saris. The jewellery is magnificent too and at a behind-the-scenes peek at the Gem Palace in Jaipur – an Aladdin’s cave of beautiful things – I saw special marriage jewels and private collections of stunning emeralds and diamonds. Jaipur was a complete sensorial experience, and our stay at the Raj Palace – with its beautiful grounds and impeccable service – was a real highlight. Gem Palace, Shop 348, MI Road, Jaipur (+91141-237 4175; www.gempalacejaipur.com). Raj Palace, Near Jorawer Singh Gate, Amer Road, Jaipur (+91141-263 4077; www.rajpalace.com).
And the best souvenir I’ve brought home is a crystal-encrusted turtle shell from Jamaica. A local artisan transformed this beautiful shell into a charm and I wear it on my favourite summer necklace. It reminds me of a very special time on this island.
My favourite room in my house is my bedroom. I feel as though I’m outside because there’s so much glass and natural light. In the middle of the room there is a huge sliding door that separates my sleeping area from the sitting area and I use it as a kind of rotating photo gallery – it is covered with pictures of my children and grandchildren and gives me great joy.
The people I rely on for personal grooming are the therapists at Violette nail salon in Milan, which my daughters introduced me to. They do a great manicure. Via Panfilo Castaldi 14, 20124 Milan (+3902-2951 9283; www.violettemilano.com).
The books on my bedside table include my father Ottavio Missoni’s autobiography, Una vita sul filo di lana, which I have never read in its entirety and I’ve decided it’s time I did, and Piero Fornasetti’s Practical Madness – a book that was published to coincide with the last exhibition of this inventive designer’s work. I also have stacks of travel magazines – National Geographic, Condé Nast Traveller – because I love to see the world.
If I didn’t live in Sumirago, the city I would live in is Paris, probably in or around Saint-Germain-des-Prés. I love the light and the wonderful food – L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon is a favourite for small plates of gyoza, grilled langoustines and crabe royal. I like exploring the streets along the Seine and ending up at the Gae Aulenti-designed Musée d’Orsay, and my favourite flea markets in the world are here, including the Marché aux Puces and Porte de Vanves; I could spend days there. But truthfully, I wouldn’t live anywhere but Sumirago because I love the country, and as it is I am 15 minutes from an international airport, 45 minutes from Milan, an hour by plane from Sardinia and a two-hour flight from London. L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, 5 Rue Montalembert (+331-4222 5656; www.atelier-robuchon-saint-germain.com). Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen, Avenue de la Porte de Clignancourt (www.marcheauxpuces-saintouen.com). Musée d’Orsay, 1 Rue de la Légion d’Honneur (+331-4049 4814; www.musee-orsay.fr). Porte de Vanves, Avenue Georges Lafenestre (+336-8689 9996; www.pucesdevanves.fr).
If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be an interior designer because I like to create comfortable environments where things are in harmony. The details of this type of work appeal to me and I love to be surrounded by colour, texture and good design.
L/Uniform's First Store Is a Sleek and Elegant Minimalist Space
The aesthetic of a popular online retailer’s first brick-and-mortar post takes cues from its fashionable totes.
The aesthetic of a popular online retailer’s first brick-and-mortar post takes cues from its fashionable totes.
“I wanted to build a store in a special, authentically Parisian place,” explains Jeanne Signoles, co-founder of the elegant, utilitarian handbag line L/Uniform. Her choice of the Quai Malaquai, a tree-lined street fronting the Seine in stylish Saint-Germain-des-Prés, was a natural one that mirrors her classic but contemporary collections. “There are no big brands here, and locals really do come to shop,” she says of the area that has long been home to artists, architects, and the fashion-forward.
Signoles, along with her husband, Alex, are not new to accessory design—his family owns Goyard—and they worked in the business before launching L/Uniform. Inspired by simple worker, messenger, and tool bags, their versions are handcrafted by artisans in the fortified French town Carcassonne using treated cotton or linen canvas, Spanish calfskin edging, and sculptural gold hardware. And while the business has been largely focused on the web, Signoles wanted this Paris retail environment to be a “cabinet of curiosities,” she says. “Not a museum or precious boutique, but a practical place with a great energy.”
Masamichi Katayama of Japan’s Wonderwall was enlisted to create a sleek, neutral white space that highlights the vibrant colors and forms of the bags to dazzling effect. The architect, whose harmonic and clean-lined style can be found in outlets such as Colette and Uniqlo, “brought a clear vision to the project,” says Signoles. “He looks at everything—space, light, layout—from the consumer’s point of view.”
The result is a 300-square foot jewel box-like setting full of natural finishes and brilliantly lit cubbies that line the walls from floor to ceiling. In keeping with the minimalist vibe, each bag is numbered, not named, and is showcased in backlit cubes that are further highlighted by the designer’s LED glass pendants. “Design is a form of communication. L/Uniform’s products should be the material of this place,” Katayama says. “The flooring is derived from their graphic pattern; the brand’s attention to detail is expressed in here.”
Large school bags—a take on the traditional messenger carryall—backpacks, petite pochettes, not to mention simple computer sleeves and phone charger cases, are all crafted from lightweight, stain-proof fabrics available in-store. They can be further customized by special order in any combination of canvas hues, leathers and cloth edgings. A parquet-lined workshop in the back of the space showcases color-blocked designs as well as silkscreened samples that further personalize the L/Uniform range, one that is already developing a cult-like following on both sides of the Atlantic. “I wanted this space to be full of inspirations, in order to create personalized bags,” Katyama says. “The bags have different stories, and I wish customers to enjoy the journey of the process. I wanted it to be a place where you can imagine your life with a new bag.”
Much like the bags, the shop “has the spirit of Saint Germain, but made modern,” says Signoles. “My favorite waiter at Le Voltaire down the street worries about what he calls the ‘massification’ of the area. He loves the store and when he gave us the nod of approval, I knew we had created something wonderful.”
Luxury quilts with minimalist flair: Louise Gray
Future heirlooms with art-world panache
Future heirlooms with art-world panache
Louise Gray is a Minneapolis-based textile firm whose artisanal cotton quilts exude the potential to become future heirlooms – and now they can be found online.
The brainchild of Alexandra Gray Bennett and Jocelin Johnson, the company produces a line of six colour-block batting-filled quilts (137cm x 183cm), with new editions being introduced as inspiration strikes. The pair channel their backgrounds in art and creative direction – as well as a strong family heritage of quilt-making – to come up with the covers, each of which has a name as straightforward as its muted Josef Albers-inspired design. Quilt No 1 ($425) is a study in black and white contrasts, with a pop of tan. Quilt No 2 ($395, second picture) features strong geometric patterns in shades of seafoam and pale blue, with a hint of black embroidery, while the navy, peach and taupe Quilt No 3 ($410) is perhaps the most striking bedspread in the launch collection. My favourite, however, is the Scandinavian aesthetic of quilt No 5 ($410, first picture), where juxtapositions of sand, blush pink and tangerine create a piece that’s a work of art in itself.
The common thread – so to speak – throughout the minimalist, Minnesota-made range is a commitment to quality materials, clean lines that work well with today’s interiors, and the preservation of a dying storytelling craft. Consider this investment bedding…
The New Spa at Sonoma's Farmhouse Inn is a Rustic-Chic Retreat
Set in the heart of the Russian River Valley, the Farmhouse Inn has been a favorite of oenophiles, gourmands and sybarites alike since its acquisition by siblings Joe and Catherine Bartolomei in 2001. Set amidst Sonoma’s wineries, and with a Michelin-starred restaurant on the picturesque premises, the property’s recent $8 million renovation includes a brand new spa that is making Forestville worth a restorative detour. Led by noted Healdsburg designer Myra Hoefer, the renovation was one of the iconic decorator’s final projects before her passing earlier this year. Hoefer brought her signature easy elegance to the inn and spa, giving it a grace that echoes sweeping valley vistas.
At the entry to the spa, a stacked Napa fieldstone hearth and water features transition guests into a more tranquil state of mind. “This is the spot where people are drawn to sit and relax,” explains the inn’s marketing director Meghan Smith. “There is no rush here.” While beginning their repose, guests can peruse the personal apothecary cart, which holds organic and wild-harvested essential oils like bergamot, birch and cedar, all waiting to be hand-mixed to their specifications.
Drawing on farmhouse vernacular, San Francisco's SB Architects designed a modern stable to house the new spa. The firm designed a dramatic 16-foot peaked roof, a sliding barn door at the entry to the treatment area and a charming Dutch door to front the reception room. A slatted wall along the main passage also creates a breezeway that keeps the spa divinely connected to the outdoors. Hoefer’s selection of clean white beadboard for the walls and cabinetry completes its rustic-chic look.
Along the main hall, a succession of four "stalls" serve as treatment rooms, complete with hand-drawn equine murals by local artist Tina Wainwright. Continuing the play on equestrian life, each room also features a body pillow filled with fragrant herbs and alfalfa used in the spa’s Roll in the Hay treatment. And when the massage or facial is complete, guests can retire to their individual, private outdoor space with chaise longue and shower, perfect for reclining and relaxing under the wine-country sun. Adds Smith, “The rooms face out to the western hillside, which adds to the bucolic atmosphere.”
The spa’s products and treatments have been thoughtfully curated by Francis & Alexander—the firm behind the Spa at Auberge du Soleil—and include ginger-honey scrubs derived from owner Catherine Bartolomei’s nearby farm, as well as cucumber-scented sunscreens and lotions courtesy of San Diego suncare company Coola. The spa menu focuses on organic ingredients, many sourced from the inn’s own gardens.
Since unveiling its redesign, the Farmhouse Inn has earned accolades, but ultimately, its atmosphere is testament to Myra Hoefer’s legacy of quiet, timeless style. “We are lucky to live here,” notes Smith, “and Myra’s subtly chic design has capitalized on the natural beauty that surrounds us.”
A version of this article appeared in the November/December 2015 issue of San Francisco Cottages & Gardens with the headline: Stable Treatment.
John Derian talks personal taste: Part One
His découpage glassware and curatorial eye for antique ephemera have established John Derian as the go-to designer for gifts and interiors
His découpage glassware and curatorial eye for antique ephemera have established John Derian as the go-to designer for gifts and interiors
My personal style signifiers are dark denim jeans and a T-shirt or casual button-down shirt – all from Double RL, Ralph Lauren’s vintage Americana line – and a gold wedding band that belonged to my grandmother. My father gave it to me 20 years ago, and as I can no longer get it off, I wear it every day. I also wear a vintage Heuer watch on a worn leather strap. Double RL, 16 Mount St, London W1 (020-7953 4120; www.ralphlauren.com). www.heuerworld.com.
The last things I bought and loved were an antique net I found at Les Puces in Paris and a cache of rare lichen prints from the early 1800s. The net is a piece of macramé-like woven cotton that was traditionally used as decoration on a leather fisherman’s bag; the stack of prints I found through a dealer and their period and quality, as well as subtle colour, are exceptional. www.marcheauxpuces-saintouen.com. www.printscharmingsoho.com.
And the thing I’m eyeing next is a set of vibrant colour pencils from CW Pencil Enterprise in New York. A friend showed me her collection and I have been wanting my own ever since. I’m drawn to stores like this that specialise in one niche thing. 100B Forsyth St, New York, NY 10002 (+1917-734 8117; www.cwpencils.com).
The last meal that truly impressed me was at Il Buco in New York; the scallop crudo and roasted branzino with anchovies and breadcrumbs were outstanding. I also loved the atmosphere and how tactile and authentic everything felt – the antique Italian furniture is covered in natural fabrics, there are Tuscan ceramics everywhere and the wabi-sabi walls have been left intact. 47 Bond St, New York, NY 10012 (+1212-533 1932; www.ilbuco.com).
The best gift I’ve given recently was a moss‑coloured silk-velvet throw by Anke Drechsel, to a friend for her birthday. It was made in India and features exquisite embroidery. www.ankedrechsel.com.
And the best one I’ve received recently was a powdery-blue ultra-fine cashmere scarf by designer Michèle Baconnier; it’s brilliant for travelling. Michèle and I met at a trade show in Paris many years ago and we’ve been good friends since, so this gift means a great deal. 12 Rue du Vieux Marrakchi, Gueliz, 40000 Marrakech (+212-524 449 178; www.michele-baconnier.net).
The last music I downloaded was the film soundtrack Guardians of the Galaxy: Awesome Mix Vol 1. It includes upbeat 1970s tunes like Come and Get Your Love by Redbone, Hooked on a Feeling by Blue Swede and David Bowie’s Moonage Dream that remind me of my youth. It’s a charming film and the music gave it a whole other dimension so I wanted to add it to my library.
If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose the East Village in Manhattan. Paula Rubenstein is incredible for beautifully curated antiques, while Filson is great for travel bags and other accessories. I like New York Central Art Supply for its wide array of papers and pens, and if shopping leaves me hungry I’ll head to Gabrielle Hamilton’s Prune. She cooks simple, delicious food, such as fried sweetbreads with capers and brown butter, and the atmosphere is warm and authentic. Filson, 40 Great Jones St (+1212-457 3121; www.filson.com). New York Central Art Supply, 62 Third Ave (+1212-473 7705; www.nycentralart.com). Paula Rubenstein, 21 Bond St (+1212-966 8954; www.paularubenstein.com). Prune, 54 E First St (+1212- 677 6221; www.prunerestaurant.com).
The best souvenir I’ve brought home is a string of pale white antique African seashells that I bartered for in the souk in Marrakech. I spend a fair bit of time in Marrakech and have had my eye on this necklace for a while; after several years I finally negotiated a good price and it now sits on a pale wooden table in my living room.
My favourite websites are Astier de Villatte for beautiful furnishings, ceramics and candles; The New York Times for news; and Massis Bakery for fresh Armenian food I get shipped to my door. Its lahmejune, kofta and stuffed vine leaves are amazing. I’m also a huge Instagram fan. www.astierdevillatte.com. www.instagram.com. www.massisbakery.com. www.nytimes.com.
Arethusa al tavolo
Farm-to-table dining from two fashion insiders in rural Connecticut
Farm-to-table dining from two fashion insiders in rural Connecticut
It was the owners of Arethusa al tavolo, a dairy farm-to-table restaurant in northwest Connecticut, who first intrigued me. George Malkemus and Anthony Yurgaitis are the president and vice-president respectively of Manolo Blahnik in the US. But after being tempted to try out this rural trattoria in the bucolic town of Bantam by its somewhat unusual management team, it is for chef Dan Magill’s creative, seasonally driven dishes that I will return.
Arethusa al tavolo (third picture) is a warm, cosy space in muted, earthy tones, accented with enormous Majolica plates. Our late lunch, accompanied by a bright and bustling atmosphere, began with a quartet of devilled eggs ($13, second picture) – a new take on the classic recipe, filled with pickled onion, potato, bacon and crab meat. The perfectly paced plates of shrimp and avocado salad ($18, first picture) – embellished with ruby grapefruit, micro-greens and a scrumptious miso and ginger dressing – and yellowtail tuna tartare with tobiko wasabi ($19) that followed were both equally tasty.
The dairy products at Arethusa al tavolo are all sourced from the duo’s 325-acre cattle farm down the road and are a real highlight. (Arethusa is the name of the farm, and “al tavolo” means “to the table” in Italian.) The cheese and charcuterie plates ($17 each) we shared featuredthe farm’s signature Bella Bantam cheese, a slightly sweet Camembert and a slab of tangy Rotondo, alongside creamy duck, pork belly and foie gras pâté and soppressata. And dessert? Of course, the honey-roasted peaches with blackberry compote and luscious ice cream was the perfect sweet ending.
If I needed another reason to head to this beautiful part of New England, other than the scenery and antiques shops, this is it. Next time I’ll go for dinner and the decadent deluxe burger ($18), garnished with speck, blue cheese and locally foraged mushrooms, washed down with a Birch Old Fashioned ($14) – a signature cocktail comprising Litchfield Distilleries bourbon, birch cordial and orange bitters.
Arne Sorenson’s dining boltholes
The president and CEO of Marriott International oversees a portfolio that includes The Ritz-Carlton, Edition and Bulgari hotels and last year reported revenues of nearly $14bn
The president and CEO of Marriott International oversees a portfolio that includes The Ritz-Carlton, Edition and Bulgari hotels and last year reported revenues of nearly $14bn
“I try to avoid fancy restaurants when entertaining clients. I prefer places with authentic food and a casual atmosphere. That’s either Mon Ami Gabi near our HQ in Bethesda, Maryland, or Le Diplomate in Washington DC – two classic French bistros with excellent steak-frites and big sharing plateaux de fruits de mer.
I grew up in Japan so sushi and sashimi are comfort food for me. Makoto in Washington DC’s attractive Palisades neighbourhood is a 20-seat hidden gem with a traditional yet sleek feel and an outstanding omakase menu. Pearl Dive Oyster Palace in the 14th Street corridor is less formal. I actually like a bit of noise during a work meal – not a pounding soundtrack, but the energy of the people in the room – as it intensifies our discussions. This vibrant area is important historically too: it was burned down in 1968 after the assassination of Martin Luther King and has been revitalised with new restaurants and brew pubs that bring real colour to the capital.
I find partners and investors visiting from outside the US want meals to be just so – Michelin stars and impressive settings. For these occasions I’ll travel an hour outside the capital to The Inn at Little Washington, where chef Patrick O’Connell prepares delicious multicourse meals that might include soft-shell crab tempura or Peking duck with sour cherries. I shared one particularly memorable evening here with Tom Hutchison, then CEO of CNL, the real-estate investment trust that was acquiring some of our property.
Much of the negotiating with Ian Schrager regarding the formation of our Edition hotels took place at the Four Seasons in New York. Something about the place just says “let’s resolve this”. We had many intense one-to-ones over lunch – often in 45-60 minutes.
I do a lot of business over breakfast and one of our most important deals – with South Africa’s Protea Hospitality Holdings – was established over strong cappuccinos at New York’s Essex House. CEO Arthur Gillis and I sat at a corner table and really got to know one another. We just hit it off. This was the first step in a long collaboration that ultimately led to term sheets and acquisitions.
In London I like the buzz at The Wolseley. If I’m seeking to make a more personal connection I’ll head to The River Café for its unmatched Italian food and light-filled space. As we are a big operator in sub-Saharan Africa I also spend a lot of time in Cape Town, where the avant-garde Test Kitchen is excellent for fun group dinners. We might start with oysters then follow the chef’s experimental tasting menu, which always sparks lively conversation. I love the mix of high-end cuisine and casual warehouse setting.
In Asia there is a ritual to business dinners and the best deal-making restaurants tend to be in hotels. I have shared countless meals with prospective investors and partners in the private rooms at Tin Lung Heen in The Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong. My guests always respond well to the traditional Cantonese cuisine and incredible harbour views. In Japan, however, my host will often take care of the evening’s arrangements – right down to the karaoke. Inagaki in Tokyo is a tiny, convivial spot favoured for bowls of oden, while Tofuya-Ukai serves wonderfully authentic tofu in a lovely garden.
Meals aren’t a soft excuse for splurging and they can be everything from intense to celebratory, but they are a huge part of the way I do business.”
John Derian talks personal taste: Part Two
The découpage glassware designer rounds up his list of likes with Cary Grant, Niman Ranch bacon and the Greek island of Patmos
My style icons include American artist and photographer Jack Pierson – whether he’s in jeans and a T-shirt or a blazer, he wears everything with confidence. And Cary Grant, who was always debonair and wore his beautifully cut suits, jackets and hats with incredible flair. He was comfortable in his own skin and it showed.
The last item of clothing I added to my wardrobe was a lightweight navy raincoat from Double RL. Travis Harrison, who works at the West Broadway branch, knows my style and points me in the right direction when pieces I might like come in. 381 West Broadway, New York, NY 10012 (+1212-625 3480; www.ralphlauren.com).
A recent “find” is El Rey Coffee Bar & Luncheonette on New York’s Lower East Side. The super-fresh food is California-Mexico influenced and the chef offers new takes on classic dishes. I’ll have the excellent lost bread egg frittata with shaved-fennel salad and crushed avocado for breakfast and the marinated chorizo with orange zest and assorted salads for lunch. The place is tiny and there isn’t a huge amount of choice but it serves exactly the kind of delicious food I love. 100 Stanton Street, New York, NY 10002 (+1212-260-3950; www.elreynyc.com).
The people I rely on for personal grooming and wellbeing are Jeff Chastain for regular haircuts because I have been going to him for so long and he knows exactly what to do, and my osteopath Monique Bureau. Her super-light touch – cranial manipulation, slight adjustments – just makes me feel better, healthier. Monique Bureau, +1212-860 6613. Parlor by Jeff Chastain, 29 West 17th Street, New York, NY 10011 (+1347-204 7100; www.parlorbyjeffchastain.com).
The site that inspires me is the Beech Forest in Provincetown, Massachusetts. It’s a magical reserve full of sand dunes, ferns, beech and pine trees and wild wintergreen. There are also ponds that are full of lily pads in summer, and I watch the geese – often with their goslings – come and go throughout the seasons; in winter the ponds freeze over, making them perfect for skating.
Indulgences I would never forgo are excellent Niman Ranch uncured bacon, which is less an indulgence and more a necessity for a happy life that I associate with weekends at my home on Cape Cod, and having a good gommage at the hammam at the Beldi Country Club in Marrakech. Its version is very rigorous and I always leave feeling completely relaxed and restored. Beldi Country Club, KM6 Route du Barrage, BP 210, Marrakech 40000 (+2125-2438 3950; www.beldicountryclub.com). www.nimanranch.com.
If I didn’t live in New York, the city I would live in is Paris, in the fifth arrondissement because it feels like a real neighbourhood, complete with vegetable markets. I’d explore the Luxembourg Garden and Jardin des Plantes; while I am not typically a fan of zoos, the one here is very special. I like Merci for its mix of vintage furniture and fashion from new and emerging talents, and the fact that it channels its profits into a fund providing education in Madagascar. And I love the communal feel and all kinds of weird meats at old-school bistro Chez Denise near Les Halles. Chez Denise, 5 Rue des Prouvaires (+331-4236 2182). Jardin des Plantes, 57 Rue Cuvier (+331-4079 5601; www.jardindesplantes.net). Luxembourg Garden,+331-4234 2362; www.senat.fr. Merci, 111 Boulevard Beaumarchais (+331-4277 0033; www.merci-merci.com).
The artists whose work I would collect if I could include Henri Matisse, for his use of colour and form; Gerhard Richter’s sculptural work; and Belgian artist Michel Frère’s impasto, abstract paintings. I own a few of his drawings and a sculpture but I would love to add to my collection.
In my fridge you’ll always find flat-leaf parsley for making pasta dishes; olives; various cheeses, including sheep’s-milk feta and Parmesan, from Eataly or Il Buco Alimentari; and Scu Dò Prosecco and some sort of rosé in case I find myself entertaining. I don’t eat at home much. Eataly, 200 Fifth Avenue (+1212-229 2560; www.eataly.com). Il Buco Alimentari & Vineria, 53 Great Jones Street (+1212-837 2622; www.ilbucovineria.com).
An object I would never part with is a 19th-century ironstone wide-mouth fluted bowl from a tiny antiques shop in Cambridge that has long since closed. It isn’t the most precious or rare piece I own, but it speaks to me. It’s decorative, but I use it as much for serving pastas and salads as a sculptural centrepiece.
The grooming staples I’m never without are my Kiehl’s moisturiser with SPF30 and its leave-in hair conditioner. Both are basic everyday products but I like that they’re lightweight and odourless. Kiehl’s Damage Repairing Leave-In Treatment, £19 for 75ml, and Ultra Facial Moisturizer SPF30, £17 for 75ml; www.kiehls.co.uk.
An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is the Greek island of Patmos. It still feels very wild and I loved the rugged topography and slower pace of life. I also adored the Monastery of St John, which sits at the top of a hill and has a museum housing exquisite treasures like woodcarvings, relics and icons. And I’ll never forget the seventysomething-year-old women standing up to their necks in the ocean and just chatting there for hours at a time. The colour of the water is so beautiful in this part of the world.
The books on my bedside table are Gut: The Inside Story of Our Body’s Most Underrated Organ, which offers a fascinating, often funny look at the digestive system and has definitely changed the way I eat, and psychological thriller The Girl on the Train by British author Paula Hawkins; my friend is currently working on the production design for the movie so I decided it was time to read it.
My favourite room in my house is the yellow living room in my home in Provincetown. I bought this 18th-century house with yellow walls and purple-painted wood floors and left them as they were. This room is particularly comfortable – with two sofas and a coffee table that’s great for playing cards, which I do to unwind at weekends – plus it has a lot of natural light and views out to the bay.
If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be a scientist, because I’m curious about the human body, animals and nature. I’m also very interested in the past, so archaeology appeals. Or I’d be a film producer – I have something of a movie obsession and enjoy watching French noir and blockbusters.