A long weekend in Kuala Lumpur with Jean-Michel Gathy

The Brussels-born architect shares culinary highlights, clean green spaces and local craft troves in his adopted hometown with Christina Ohly Evans. Portrait by Ian Teh

What makes Kuala Lumpur special is its people. They’re a wonderful mix of Malay, Chinese and Indian, all considered equally important, so everyone is kind to each other. They are genuinely friendly and welcoming, and since everyone speaks English, a visit is very easy. The racial mix means a rich variety of foods, types of worship, ways of dressing and also, of course, different kinds of architecture. The diversity, tolerance and acceptance of everyone: these are the city’s most powerful assets.

The dramatic golden statue at Batu Caves | Image: Getty Images/EyeEm

If you like celebrations – and particularly fireworks – then this is the place, as there are holidays and festivals for the country’s myriad faiths throughout the year. Because of its variety of religions, Malaysia has earned itself the reputation of having one of the highest numbers of public holidays in the world. And in KL, there’s almost always something fun going on.

Because Malaysia was a British colony until 1957, the courts of law, the infrastructure, the police and the medical systems are all very balanced, much like you’d find in western Europe. Despite Kuala Lumpur’s lush, tropical feel – we’re basically on the equator – with the jungle that surrounds the city, you will still feel quite at home here as a foreigner.

Passage Thru India restaurant, which has a magical atmosphere and a memorable prawn masala

The city is a bit like Singapore in terms of its urban landscape, but I think of it as a more of a residential-feeling, cosy place. We have rain every day, which is good for the palm trees, the many golf courses and our public parks, and because we’re so close to the sea – it’s just 30km away – I think KL must be the world capital for incredibly dramatic lightning. I often recommend the very central Shangri-La hotel, not just because my office is there, so I gravitate towards it, but because everyone is drawn to the buzzing lobby. I’m a big fan of its Japanese restaurant, Zipangu, where the uni sushi is fantastic, but so is the hotel’s Sunday brunch in the Lemon Garden restaurant. Next to the city-centre KLCC Park, just below the iconic Petronas Twin Towers, is the Mandarin Oriental, where rooms with floor-to-ceiling windows overlook all the greenery, and there are great views from its MO Bar too. I think it’s the best location in the city – but almost as good is the Grand Hyatt, which is just 300m from the towers and has a very contemporary look.

Malacca has many ornate temples and makes for a great day trip out of Kuala Lumpur | Image: Alamy Stock Photo/Adrian Baker

KL has many suburbs, and each has a weekly market with a mix of Malay, Chinese and Indians selling goods of all kinds. In Petaling Jaya, for example, you’ll find day and night markets with every single kind of fruit and an abundance of vegetables. But the fish stalls are the stars – it’s not so much about the butcher here – and they sell everything from seabass to prawns to rock lobsters, as well as famous local dishes: nasi goreng, or fried rice, and nasi lemak, a mixture of rice with coconut milk, cucumber, chicken or seafood, and egg, which is delicious.

The lobby of the city’s Shangri-La hotel is a popular meeting place

People don’t really entertain at home in Malaysia, so restaurants with all types of cuisine to choose from are plentiful. To enjoy real Malay food, I send people to Bijan, for the nice ethnic feel – soft lighting, stone floors and wooden screens; it’s quite romantic – and the classic kerabu pucuk paku, the local fiddlehead fern salad, which is very good. The Chinese restaurants here tend to be the opposite: overlit, quite noisy and always very showy. But South Sea Seafood in Kampung Baru Subang and Hakka Restaurant in Jalan Kia Peng are both reliably good – bright and festive, and offering good versions of standards like spring rolls and stir-fried crab. The Indian restaurants here are visual feasts, always red or pink – they worship these colours! – with lots of gold decoration. The best place for prawn masala and all kinds of roti is Passage Thru India, with its magical, slightly exotic atmosphere. 

One of the best go-to restaurants in general, though, is Marini’s on 57, a lively Italian spot on the 57th floor of a building next to the Petronas Twin Towers – from the terrace, it feels as if you could touch them. The cocktail bar has good music and is always full of stylish people – it’s the place to be. And the founder of the restaurant, Cavaliere Modesto Marini, has another restaurant called Marble 8 that serves the best steak in town. 

There are so many cultural highlights in KL, but top of the list is the Hindu temple Sri Mahamariamman. It’s the oldest (and richest) temple in Kuala Lumpur, founded in 1873 at the edge of Chinatown, on Jalan Tun HS Lee. The Batu Caves is another Indian temple in the limestone hills near the city; it’s in a very dramatic grotto and has a tall golden statue at the base of a staircase that leads visitors up to the snug cave temple. It’s not for everyone, because it can be a messy walk, but I think it’s really worth making the trip. The city’s main mosques – Masjid Jamek Sultan Abdul Samad and the National Mosque of Malaysia – are both must-sees; the latter is set in 13 beautiful manicured acres and holds 15,000 people. And my golfing friends are always happy about the 15 courses within about a 10km radius of town, including the famous Kuala Lumpur Golf & Country Club, where they host PGA and LPGA tournaments.

For real local immersion, I always recommend Bangsar Shopping Centre, where you’ll find a little of everything: spa and beauty products, clothes, shoes and a massive food hall. It has a very local feel – it’s not at all about big chain stores. One of my favourites to browse in is Jasons, the food hall, which has other locations in Singapore and Hong Kong and is basically a department store for all things edible. The huge selection and incredible lighting make it special, and its mangoes, my favourite fruit, are the best. For jewellery that’s influenced by Asian culture and mythology, it has to be Lotus Arts de Vivre: it makes use of raw natural materials – seeds, coconut shells, scarab wings, ebony and precious woods, sea shells, bamboo – and you’ll see wonderful examples of traditional craft techniques.

It’s well worth exploring KLCC Park in the middle of town. It isn’t Hyde Park or Central Park, but it is 20 beautiful hectares and makes the city feel so clean. It’s a wonderful place for children to play and there are running tracks too. For a city escape, take a day trip to Malacca. It’s just 120km south of KL and, since it was variously a Dutch, Portuguese and British colony, there’s an unusual mix of architecture with many ornate temples and a lovely harbour.

Kuala Lumpur is growing rapidly – we have good subways, elevated trains and everything is wired, which makes a visit here very user-friendly. But I hope it keeps its private, slightly homey feel, because when things get too urban, you lose the intimacy. Most of all, I love the genuine kindness of the people; they are what will continue to make it such a special place.

Switzerland's Kulm Hotel Expansion Draws Michelin-Starred Chefs and Sports Fanatics

The historic Ice Pavilion in St. Moritz gets an upgrade, courtesy of Pritzker Prize-winner Norman Foster, with new modern, cantilevered sports venues and a world-class restaurant.

Visitors to Switzerland’s Engadine Valley—home to high-end ski haven St. Moritz at 6,000 feet—have a new destination to consider, thanks to the opening of the Kulm Country Club at the storied Kulm Hotel. Following a £9 million (USD $11.3 million) renovation and expansion of the original Ice Pavilion—a two-story structure built in 1905 that figured prominently in the 1928 and 1948 Olympic Games—as well as a serene oak-paneled restaurant, lounge, and sprawling sun terrace, the new spaces will create a vibrant arts and events hub for the entire Alpine community.

“I have lived in St. Moritz for many years, so this project is very close to my heart,” says Lord Foster of the year-long project, inspired by “the sporting heritage of the region. "It connects with the history of the building, while adapting it for new uses.” Designed to enhance the flourishing arts and athletics scene in the perpetually chic ski resort, the Foster + Partners buildings have been reimagined using larch, ash, and oak—local timber in keeping with the tradition of the region. The results are spare, light-filled spaces that showcase the Kulm’s vintage sports memorabilia—bobsleighs, skis, photographs, and assorted artifacts—and capitalize on the breathtaking mountain views beyond.

One of the most exciting aspects of the Kulm project is the permanent pop-up restaurant concept that will kick-off with multi-Michelin-starred Daniel Humm of Eleven Madison Park, followed by inventive takes on bistro classics courtesy of 2016’s Gault Millau Chef of the Year, Nenad Mlinarevic, for the month of February. Next up in the rotating residency line-up will be chef Mauro Colagreco, of two Michelin-starred Mirazur in the south of France, who will prepare his signature South American-inflected, Mediterranean specialties that are vegetable-centric and focused on simple (yet striking) color and flavor combinations.

“Designed in the spirit of a mini stadium,” says Foster, of the multipurpose pavilion overlooking the expansive skating rink, “it is envisaged as the focus of the annual calendar of sporting and cultural events such as the medal ceremonies for the World Ski Championships in February (6–19), the Festival da Jazz, and the British Classic Car Meeting in summer.” The restaurant and lounge will complement these Kulm Park events, and, as Foster hopes, “become a new social space for the community, a place for everyone to come together and celebrate.”

Bespoke Scottish-made hardwood skis

Lonely Mountain Skis are made with adventure in mind

“Our customers are skiers looking for adventure,” says Jamie Kunka, head designer and craftsman at Scotland’s Lonely Mountain Skis (LMS). “They want something that can take on piste skiing, ski touring or even freeride ski competitions.” From a workshop in Perthshire, Kunka crafts handmade custom skis using a unique mix of traditional and modern materials and methods to provide a smooth ride – whether in powdery Patagonia or the icy gullies of Aonach Mor in the Scottish Highlands.

Jamie Kunka, of Lonely Mountain Skis, carrying Sneachda skis (from £750) at Carn an Tuirc in the Scottish Grampians | Image: Alun Callander

Each commission (from £1,100) begins with a consultation – in person or by phone and email – with Kunka, to determine desired fit, performance goals and the types of terrain to be covered, as well as graphics, finishes and veneers. Clients can take inspiration from several of the firm’s existing designs: the all-mountain Sneachda (from £750), which is perfect for use in Europe and beyond; the lightweight-yet-stable expedition Crua (from £750), which plays well in Scandinavia and the Alps; and the Ord (from £900), a powder and freestyle ski with a light balsa/flax core that’s ideal for use in North America and Japan. Kunka is happy to adapt these shapes, as well as to devise new concepts and work to varied ski lengths – which usually range between 168cm and 189cm.

Each hand-finished pair – made of an eight-layer laminate of natural and synthetic fibres with a beech, poplar or maple core – takes between three and five weeks to complete. The bases are sintered 7000 PTex (a polyethylene plastic) and the entire ski is pressed in a vacuum moulding system that ensures even flex. Flax and carbon fibres add strength and flexibility, while the top layer is a beautiful one-of-a-kind hardwood – maple or cherry. Most are capped with a discreet LMS logo, but bespoke clients can request any graphic finishes they fancy. One new embellishment this season is custom pyrography engravings of Scottish nature scenes by graffiti artist-cum-naturalist LeRoc.

Jamie Kunka making hardwood ski cores in the company’s workshop | Image: Alun Callander

These high-performance skis are also pleasingly friendly to the environment. “We use as many sustainable and natural materials as possible; 80 per cent are from grown sources,” says Kunka. “And for every ski we sell, we aim to plant two trees to offset the carbon dioxide we produce.”

Anabela Chan’s Soho trove of statement-making jewellery and sculpture

Vibrantly coloured jewellery and ethereal sculptures keep this little gem of a boutique sparkling in the heart of Soho

“I wanted to create an exquisite gem in the city,” says Anabela Chan of her bijou fine-jewellery boutique in the courtyard of the Ham Yard Hotel in Soho. Showcasing her exuberant, statement-making pieces alongside her personal collection of taxidermy birds and her intriguing artworks, the space is an art deco-esque tour de force – designed by her husband, Jimmy Hung, an architect at Heatherwick Studio. “He devised every cabinet and fixture, as well as the Italian marble, brass and walnut finishes.”

Gold-edged vitrines hold ornate cuffs (from £2,200) and feathered necklaces (from £1,990), while a stuffed crane and preserved parrots stand sentry over Chan’s exotic Butterfly Bloom sculptures (from £9,000). These ethereal arrangements, sourced from the jungles of Brazil and mountains of Mexico, are housed in sculptural, tinted-glass domes “reminiscent of water droplets” that are hand-blown in Wiltshire.

Gold and diamond Morpho Bloom cuff, £13,900 | Image: Michael Leckie

The grandchild of a noted Chinese film director and cinematographer, Chan first trained as an architect, practising with Richard Rogers, before turning her passion for drawing flora and fauna into print and embroidery design work for Alexander McQueen. “But I craved making things with my hands,” says Chan, who then headed to the Royal College of Art to study jewellery design.

She launched her eponymous brand in 2013 with 20 spectacular cocktail rings, and today her creations – “full of the magnificent colours, textures and geometries of nature” – have an international following, including Kit Kemp and Lady Gaga. Known for her use of vibrant stones such as sapphires, amethysts, garnets and peridots, Chan handcrafts each piece in her Chelsea atelier – from the dramatic Bumble Rose Ring (£910) with enamel and coral flowers and gem-encrusted bees surrounding a stunning aquamarine solitaire, to the dazzling Aqua Papillon drop earrings (£1,360), in 18ct gold vermeil with peridots and diamonds.

Unlike many fine jewellers, Chan delights in using laboratory-grown gems – such as the aquamarine mentioned above, as well as champagne diamonds and Japanese opals – but some of her most striking pieces focus on natural stones. The sculptural, modern Morpho Bloom cuff (£13,900), for example, is encrusted with ethically mined white diamonds, and the ornate Cinderella ring (£26,000) in white, yellow and black gold is set with a vivid, multifaceted 13.6ct blue topaz. Equally eye-catching are her one-off Triton earrings (price on request) – clusters of red and pink coral, Swarovski crystals and glass beads inspired by reefs in the Aegean Sea – and the bold Poseidon necklace (price on request), which combines turquoise and hand-dyed blue coral to spectacular effect.

Chan welcomes bespoke work too; she delights in setting treasured gems into new rings (from £30,000); a more outré commission was a tribal-inspired neckpiece in red macaw feathers for Game of Thrones actress Sophie Turner. “Jewellery isn’t rocket science,” says Chan, “but it can bring immense joy and empowerment. It’s often a celebration of the past and the future. I find that endearingly romantic.”

Nobu Matsuhisa’s insider Tokyo

The chef, restaurateur and newly minted hotelier shares hidden gourmet highlights and perennial cultural favourites with Christina Ohly Evans.

Tokyo is an incredibly sophisticated city, and the energy here is like nowhere else on earth. Despite the hustle and bustle, however, the pace of life is gentler than in cities such as New York and Hong Kong, and the people aren’t aggressive: everything is driven by ritual, and good manners are very important. Unlike other Asian cities – Singapore and Shanghai, for example – most people outside the larger hotels and corporations don’t speak English, and this gives Tokyo a unique feel as well. From the designs of Issey Miyake to the functional underlayers by Uniqlo, this is the city where fashion, technology and attention to quality intersect.

I travel to Tokyo for three days every month to prepare omakase [chef’s] menus at my restaurant in the historic Minato area. I love it in all four seasons, but the mild autumn months and spring, with its cherry blossoms, are my favourite times. The period surrounding the New Year holiday is very special, as it’s celebrated differently in each of Japan’s 47 prefectures. In Tokyo, everything closes down and there is a focus on food and local customs, with people wearing kimonos and going to shrines, such as the incredibly serene Meiji Shrine in Shibuya. Summer is a time of celebrations, including the Sumida River Fireworks Festival, which has been in existence since 1733. They set off thousands of beautiful hanabi – “fire flowers” – and you can view them from the various bridges or from river boats.

Seafood in the depachika (food hall) at department store Mitsukoshi | Image: © Jeremie Souteyrat

One of the most luxurious aspects of Tokyo is its hotels, because hospitality is of the utmost importance in Japan. There is the beautiful, sleek Aman Tokyo, which sits on the top six floors of the Otemachi Tower, and The Peninsula, with its views of the surrounding skyscrapers, where every piece of technology and bathroom fixture has been considered. Both are places that make visitors feel very looked after. The magnificent Palace Hotel overlooks the Imperial Palace grounds and has an incredible sense of history; it is the epitome of Japanese serenity and tradition, and features Michelin-starred chef Shinji Kanesaka’s Sushi Kanesaka. At any of them, you’ll find the classic Japanese breakfast of rice or congee, grilled fish, omelette and assorted pickles – all cooked without oil or butter – that makes for a very light, healthy way to start the day.

One of my favourite ways to begin any day is with a walk through Arisugawa-No‑Miya Memorial Park, in the Minato district, just down from Roppongi Hills. Once the home of a feudal lord, it became a public park in the 1930s, and features waterfalls, a large pond, pathways and plum trees, as well as the impressive Tokyo Metropolitan Central Library. Another good morning activity is a visit to the fish auctions at Tsukiji Market. It’s supposed to move to Toyosu soon, but for now it’s in central Tokyo. Go between 4 and 5am to see the chefs and buyers at work, or 7 to 9am to enjoy the general theatre of the place.

Food is, of course, a major highlight in Tokyo; you’ll find more Michelin stars here than in Paris. Much of this is because of the ingredients: when you put the freshest fish available in the hands of some of the most talented and creative chefs, the results are incredible. In addition, many of the finest Michelin-starred establishments, such as the three-star Sukiyabashi Jiro, have just eight or 10 seats, and some do only one seating per meal, which makes getting a reservation very difficult – even for me. But whether you’re eating in a fine-dining restaurant or a simple udon place, meals don’t typically last long; you can be well fed in 30 to 40 minutes.

There are so many local specialities to be tasted in Tokyo, and one of the best is the tempura at Tenko. Unlike showy teppan cooking, the food is produced in a very thoughtful Zen way here, by two generations of the same family, and it’s brought in sequence, beginning with tea, appetisers and miso soup, before the tempura of shrimp, eel and seasonal vegetables. It’s in a former geisha house, and a seat at the horseshoe-shaped counter is the one to get. For the juiciest pork gyoza and the best noodles, try Tohryu for a casual lunch, or Chikuyotei in Ginza for traditional unagi [eel] with rice. It’s been in business for 130 years, and the tatami rooms here are very popular, so you need to book in advance.

The Palace Hotel overlooks the grounds of the Imperial Palace

Also unmissable is the tonkatsu – deep-fried breaded pork cutlets – at Maisen, which is in a former second world war bathhouse. The understated atmosphere is ideal for enjoying the kurobuta pork, which is perfectly tender, with just the right crispiness. Obana, with its Michelin star, is far from the centre of town, but the unagi served there is excellent. The fact that each dish is prepared at the time of ordering makes it a little time-consuming, but it’s a very authentic dining experience.

Tokyo is known for shopping in part because there are certain things that can only be found here, including high-quality seasonal fruits such as the peaches and persimmons that are grown nearby. Two of the best places are Sembikiya and Shinjuku Takano, which specialise in all things fruit, including cakes, confections and beautifully boxed, very expensive muskmelons that are given as gifts and served in thick slices. Itoya is a favourite for stationery and everything to do with writing: pens and pencils, notebooks, desk accessories. Daikanyama Tsutaya is the bookstore to go to; it’s massive and has antique editions, contemporary fiction and everything in between, in many languages – and all the international magazines. Toraya, in the historic Tokyo Station, is another special place for confectionery gifts, including yokan jellies packaged in lovely Japanese paper. The red bean paste, agar and sugar sweets can be an acquired taste because of the flavour and texture, but try them anyway.

Arisugawa-No‑Miya Memorial Park | Image: Alamy

For totally unique kitchenware – bento boxes, incredible knives – Tokyu Hands is a must; it’s unlike any other department store and I’m always intrigued by at least one gadget I never even knew existed. Takashimaya, Isetan and Mitsukoshi are other noteworthy stores, each with its own depachika, or basement food hall, offering bento boxes, sweets, pickles and more. You can taste everything and they’re very high-tech and traditional at the same time. In terms of the number of offerings and the cleanliness, I’ve not seen anything comparable anywhere, even in New York.

The rich cultural history of this city is reflected in its museums. The Tokyo National Museum houses collections of everything from samurai armour to lacquerware to ancient relics. The Mori Art Museum has smaller rotating contemporary exhibitions that include video installations, and as it’s on the 52nd and 53rd floors of the Mori Tower in the Roppongi Hills, the views are incredible, especially from the rooftop Sky Deck. Fans of the king of animation Hayao Miyazaki will love the Ghibli Museum, which displays his sketches. And foodies should visit Umami Science Square “museum” in Kawasaki – my personal favourite, as it’s a great place to learn about umami, or the fifth taste.

Daikanyama Tsutaya stocks books in many languages | Image: © Jeremie Souteyrat

For a festive evening, I’d have a dinner of sukiyaki and shabu-shabu [thinly sliced meat dishes] at Imahan in Ginza, which has small, private rooms. At the opposite end of things is Sarashina-Horii in Azabu-Juban, for the fresh soba that are made daily and served either hot or cold. It is all about the food here, and people eat very fast; the soba with grated radish and shrimp is absolutely delicious. And to cap off any meal, I recommend a stop at Toshi Yoroizuka in Roppongi, where beautiful desserts are made to order, much like a sushi chef does at a counter, and where watching the exquisite preparation is as rewarding as the final pastries.

Part of why I love Tokyo so much is that there’s always discovery. I’m exposed to new products and new ingredients every time I come, and I love introducing these to people all over the world. I’m continually inspired by Japan and by this city.

The Aesthete: Rodman Primack talks personal taste

The Design Miami Basel executive director is also the founder of New York art and design practice RP Miller

My personal style signifiers are the casual jackets that I wear every day. I like navy ones by Dries Van Noten, or Austrian collarless versions that I have made for me at Hans Frauenschuh, Leder & Tracht. I wear the latter year round – in boiled wool or in linen for summer – and I love their horn buttons and the attention to detail. Because I fly so much, I always wear an I Pezzi Dipinti cashmere scarf, or one of the vintage Japanese handkerchiefs I get at Kapital in Tokyo, which are cowboy style. Dries Van Noten, +323-470 2510; www.driesvannoten.be. Hans Frauenschuh, Leder & Tracht, +43535-664 337; www.hansfrauenschuh.at. I Pezzi Dipinti, +1212-941 9966; www.ipezzidipinti.com. Kapital, +8135-725 3923; www.kapital.jp.

Primack’s Cowhide/Fried Egg painting by Math Bass, from Overduin & Co

The last thing I added to my wardrobe was a Gucci bomber jacket by Alessandro Michele. It reminds me of a traditional US varsity jacket, with blue and red knit cuffs, and it is embroidered with an amazing hornet. I’m planning to wear it all winter. www.gucci.com.

The last thing I bought and loved was an amazing painting by Math Bass from Overduin & Co in LA. It has a deep green background with a simplified, abstract cowhide print and features a fried egg that looks like it is made of stickers. It’s just a fantastic piece. 6693 Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90028 (+1323-464 3600; www.overduinandco.com).

Far right: his lamp by Jos Devriendt, from Pierre Marie Giraud Gallery | Image: Courtesy Pierre Marie Giraud Gallery

The best book I’ve read in the past year – and I cannot believe I hadn’t read it sooner – is Josef Albers’ Interaction of Color, which is a masterpiece of colour theory principles. Originally published in 1963, this later edition contains additional colour studies as well as Albers’ text about colour intensity and vibration. www.interactionofcolor.com.

The last meal that truly impressed me was at Nix in New York. The atmosphere is super-inviting: all‑white, organic-feeling Danish modern, with candles and soft lighting. The menus are vegetable-based, and we sampled everything from steamed buns with tempura cauliflower and a spicy vinegar sauce, to an egg salad with shards of potato, mustard seeds and pickles. The tandoor bread with hummus and spiced eggplant dips were excellent as well. This was the most delicious – and calorific – vegetarian meal I’ve ever had. 72 University Place, New York, NY 10003 (+1212-498 9393; www.nixny.com).

Interaction of Color by Josef Albers

The last music I downloaded was Frank Ocean’s long-awaited new album Blonde; the Stranger Things soundtrack by Michael Stein, which features 1980s-style synth music and nostalgic songs; Congolese band Mbongwana Star’s single Malukayi;and Gustav Mahler’s Symphony No 5, conducted by Leonard Bernstein.

Nix restaurant in New York | Image: Stephen A Johnson

The best gift I’ve given recently was a black and gold skull ring with diamond eyes by German jeweller Karl Fritsch. I gave this playful piece to my sister for her 45th birthday. £2,900; Ornamentum Gallery, 506 Warren Street, Hudson, NY 12534 (+1518-671 6770; www.ornamentumgallery.com).

And the best one I’ve received recently was a unique ceramic lamp by Jos Devriendt. It looks like an abstract pink mushroom and graces the hallway in our Greenwich Village home. Pierre Marie Giraud Gallery, 7 Rue de Praetere, Brussels 1050 (+322-503 0351; www.pierremariegiraud.com).

The grooming products I’m never without are shampoos by Italian brand Davines, for their light herb- and spice-infused scents. I stock our homes with their Naturaltech Nourishing, Calming and Well-being Shampoos. I’m also a fan of Crème de la Mer for serious night-time moisturising. Crème de la Mer Moisturizing Gel Cream, $110 for 30ml; www.cremedelamer.co.uk. Davines Naturaltech Shampoos, $26.50 for 250ml; www.davines.com.

My favourite websites are Kayak.com for researching flight options and NYTimes.com for news. I like Artnet.com and Dezeen.com for art and design.

The Sweet Life in London's Best — and Craziest! — Mega-Suites

Hotel maven Christina Ohly fills us in on London suites fit for the queen.

LONDON – Whether you're traveling with a large posse or just want to live like a potentate, book one of these sprawling, amenity-laden suites at London's top hotels for a stay to remember. Bring your checkbook — or preferably someone else's. And note that although we list prices, hotel rates always fluctuate. Though you know what they say: If you have to ask what it costs...

Photo courtesy of The Connaught.

Photo courtesy of The Connaught.

The Apartment Suite at The Connaught

Location: Mayfair

The Digs: Situated on the hotel's top floor and designed by David Collins Studio, the stately study in soothing blue tones has a working wood-burning marble fireplace, a double-height sitting room, and a vast library.

The Wow Factor: Michelin-star chef Hélène Darroze will create menus for your bespoke, in-room dinner party.

USP: The Champagne Room downstairs and the ability to have the best fashions – Lanvin, Balenciaga, Christian Louboutin – placed in your dressing room prior to arrival are all pluses.

The Spend: from $16,959

Photo courtesy of Rosewood Hotels.

Photo courtesy of Rosewood Hotels.

The Manor House Suite at Rosewood London

Location: High Holborn

The Digs: A 1,991 square foot Zen sanctuary designed by Tony Chi. It’s about light-filled sitting spaces, neutral finishes, king-sized beds with Rivolta Carmignani Italian linens, and a dedicated champagne fridge. 

Wow Factors: The suite can be booked with five adjoining rooms to create an entire Manor House Wing, with a private entrance on High Holborn.

USP: The sprawling, sumptuous suite has its own post code.

The Spend: from £9,500

Photo courtesy of The Lanesborough.

Photo courtesy of The Lanesborough.

The Royal Suite at The Lanesborough

Location: Knightsbridge

The Digs: Seven resplendent bedrooms spread across 4,800 square feet make this one of the most lavish setups in town. Two Albert Pinto-designed sitting rooms with floor-to-ceiling windows afford views of Wellington Arch and Buckingham Palace Gardens.

The Wow Factors: 24-hour butler service, a private entrance, a dedicated Rolls Royce, and endless amounts of marble and gilt make this a stunner fit for Louis XIV.

USP: The hotel's Library Bar is one of London's best spots to sip rare cognacs, while Michelin-starred restaurant Celeste offers a sublime menu by chef Steeven Gilles.

The Spend: from £18,000

Book It

Photo courtesy of The Savoy.

Photo courtesy of The Savoy.

The Royal Suite at The Savoy

Location: The Strand

The Digs: The two-bedroom suite overlooking the Thames has a rotating contemporary art program, so you don't even need to leave for your culture fix. Opened in spring 2016, the digs have soothing, cream-colored interiors by Pierre-Yves Rochon and Edwardian furnishings that evoke the hotel's rich history.

The Wow Factor: The views of the river and London's iconic landmarks are stunning. This was the vista that inspired Claude Monet to paint his series of London bridges, which he completed during his three long-term stays in the suite between 1899 and 1901.

USP: The 24-hour butler service is unrivaled, as are the delicious dry martinis in the Art Deco-inspired American Bar.

The Spend: from £17,000

Photo courtesy of COMO Metropolitan London.

Photo courtesy of COMO Metropolitan London.

COMO Suite at COMO Metropolitan London

Location: Park Lane

The Digs: Completely renovated in 2015, this spacious accommodation has floor-to-ceiling views of Hyde Park, even from the bathroom. For anyone in search of a peaceful, zen aesthetic (think light oak floors and neutral textiles), the sleek COMO outpost delivers.

The Wow Factors: A sitting room, pantry, and dining area that are big enough for a family of four make for the perfect jumping-off point for London sightseeing, meetings in Mayfair, or quiet meals in Shepherd's Mews just behind the hotel.

USP: Nobu downstairs means signature black cod with miso at all hours. Enough said.

The Spend: £2750

Photo courtesy of The Berkeley Hotel.

Photo courtesy of The Berkeley Hotel.

Opus Suite at The Berkeley Hotel

Location: Knightsbridge

The Digs: A muted green tea palette and original Asian furniture and art by interior designer Andre Fu fill the expansive space. A master bedroom, living room, study, full kitchen, and dining room make this a perfect, no-holds-barred pied-à-terre for an extended stay (or a serious lie-in).

The Wow Factor: The hotel's Blue Bar is still the height of cool, and the spa, with a pool overlooking Hyde Park, is destination-worthy.

Unique Selling Point: Michelin-star chef Marcus Wareing of in-house restaurant Marcus can be booked to prepare his stellar signature dishes en suite for parties of up to ten people.

The Spend: from $16,959

Photo courtesy of the Shangri-La Hotel.

Photo courtesy of the Shangri-La Hotel.

Shangri-La Suite at The Shangri-La Hotel at the Shard

The Location: Borough Market

The Digs: Set on level 39 of Renzo Piano's iconic skyscraper, the 2,000-plus square foot suite has it all: custom-made Italian furniture, silk-swathed walls, a dedicated chauffeur, private elevator access, 270-degree views, enormous marble bathrooms with heated floors, Bose sound systems, and spotting telescopes.

The Wow Factors: The specially designed Shangri-La bed featuring patented body-contouring technology is outfitted with sumptuous 1,000-threadcount Frette linens.

USP: Everything is personalized for you, from the stationery to Dine by Design meals prepared in your room's fully stocked kitchen.

The Spend: from $10,393

Photo courtesy of Hotel Café Royal.

Photo courtesy of Hotel Café Royal.

Dome Penthouse aat Hotel Café Royal

Location: Piccadilly Circus

The Digs: Three bedrooms, two furnished terraces, a living room, and marble dining table that seats six. An oasis of serene splendor.

The Wow Factors: The master suite is set beneath the hotel's iconic copper-domed rotunda, and the spacious suite features stunning views of Big Ben, the London Eye, the Houses of Parliament, and the Shard in the distance. Don't be afraid to use the LED projection system that illuminates the suite's dome. It's guaranteed to get the party started right.

USP: Thomas Kochs, the hotel's managing director, is the consummate hotelier/insider, and a person for whom no request is too big or too small.

The Spend: £14,000

Photo courtesy of Claridge's.

The Royal Suite at Claridge's

Location: Mayfair

The Digs: Victorian opulence is in full effect in this first floor, two-bedroom suite. Edwardian furnishings and a piano once owned by Richard D'Oyly Carte, builder of the Savoy, add to the intimate, historic ambience.

The Wow Factor: 19th-century French prints line the high-ceilinged dining room, creating a vibe that's Victorian with a sleek edge.

USP: Reservations at Fera, the ultimate farm-to-table restaurant downstairs, are easily booked, and the Fumoir remains the sexiest spot for champagne, oysters, and post-theatre conversation in central London.

The Spend: $6,663

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE

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Peter Marino’s perfect weekend in the Hamptons

The architect and designer counts Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Bulgari, Ermenegildo Zegna and London’s forthcoming Peninsula Hotel among his clients. He also designs private residences

Perfect weekends begin with a solo ride out to my home in Southampton, Long Island, on one of my bikes – a KTM 1290 Super Duke R or my Triumph Speed Triple. It all depends on how sporty I am feeling.

Saturday morning opens with three cups of strong black coffee, before 9am, followed by a trip to Marders nursery to meet with garden designer Charlie Marder. He’s been running this institution since the 1970s and knows so much. They have all sorts of flowering fruit trees and a greenhouse shop too. Then I’ll typically spend two hours in my garden. We have a different flower for each month: forsythia, hydrangea, rhododendron, apple blossom. I’ll also tend to my five beehives – if you have more than 10 acres in Southampton you’re encouraged to keep bees because so many have been affected by mites.

Exercise is an important part of my weekend routine and Kip, my trainer, comes to work out with me for an hour before lunch. I was a gymnast in high school so I like the rings and parallel bars. Lunch is almost always a tuna melt from Sip ’n Soda, a classic 1950s diner, I might have two if I’ve worked out a lot.

Afternoons often involve picking vegetables from our garden for the meal Giangi, our property manager, will grill for dinner. I try to eat clean and we grow our own tomatoes, cucumbers, kale and celery. We’ll buy meat or locally caught tuna from gourmet market Citarella and swordfish from seafood specialist Clamman.

Every weekend includes tennis – at my home or the Bath & Tennis Club, where I like the low-key atmosphere. It’s just six clay courts and perfect for round robins. I always make our house guests play; it’s like Mao’s Long March. But it’s usually followed by a refreshing swim and massages by Kip for whoever wants one.

I don’t like to shop very much, but two exceptions are Tennis East – to get my rackets restrung and buy my tennis whites – and Book Hampton, a truly old‑fashioned bookstore. Late in the day, after the crowds have gone, I might go to Halsey Neck Lane Beach, primarily for my European guests who come to the Hamptons and want to see the ocean.

On Saturday night my wife Jane and I will host dinner for friends, as well as our nieces and nephews who come out from the city. It might be grilled lamb chops and lasagne prepared by Heidi, our chef, paired with wines chosen by my daughter, Isabelle. She is a sommelier and will select a bordeaux – from our wine cellar or from Domaine Franey, a first-class wine shop in East Hampton that specialises in French reds. Afterwards, we like to watch movies in our screening room – preferably happy ones that are an antidote to the rest of the crazy week. I’m a bit of a night owl, so I’m in bed anywhere between 12am and 2am.

Sundays start with the New York Post – I like the difficult 12-box sudoku and time myself. Then we might ride to Montauk with friends. We’ll stop at Gosman’s Dock, the famous fish place on the water with views of the boats in the harbour – I love the tuna tartare cones – before returning to Southampton for more tennis, swimming and apple-picking.

Weekends are for relaxing, so I don’t look at email or social media. The air on Long Island is so oxygenated I sleep well and get re-energised for the coming week. I’ll head back to the city on my bike about 3pm. My wife and daughter go by car and we’ll meet for dinner at Mr Chow; we have a special table as it’s been a family favourite for 25 years – we’ll share their speciality, Beijing duck. Or we’ll go to Sette Mezzo, a simple Upper East Side Italian with a lively atmosphere. I travel from 12 to 15 days a month, so Sunday nights are family time.

Finding Southern Italian Hotel Charm in London

What happens when you bring Italian hospitality to a quiet London neighborhood?

LONDON – London may be the ultimate hotel town — with everything from luxurious, chintz-filled suites to bijou, boutique bolt holes — but there are surprisingly few options in SW3, the quiet residential area near Sloane Square in Chelsea where I used to live and prefer to stay. Needless to say, I am always happy to make a lodging discovery. My latest find isn't brand new, but it is under the radar due to its small size and low-to-no traffic location. My new home away from home is San Domenico House, an authentic, antiques-laden English charmer with a Puglian twist.

CHECKING IN

Overview

San Domenico House is a 17-room red brick Victorian home that was purchased in 2005 by the Melpignano family and lovingly transformed into a cossetting guest house just steps from the King's Road. (The same family owns Fathom Favorites Borgo Egnazia and Masseria San Domenico, five-star resorts in Puglia that are at the opposite end of the design spectrum.) Built in 1887 and established as the Sloane Hotel in 1991, the latest iteration of the hotel is a rare, slightly quirky find – making it ideal for travelers who like this part of town, favor peace and quiet, like to open the windows, or are traveling with older kids who will love the easy access to the shops, cafes, and parks of Chelsea. Spread across four floors, the rooms and suites are all individually designed, some with antique armoires, others swathed in toile du jouy fabrics. Some are bi-level; some have lovely terraces. But each makes guest feel like they are staying in someone's well-appointed house, with en-suite, modern bathrooms.

Book It

Rates start at £195. Click here for reservations.

Claims to Fame

San Domenico House is known for the art and antiques that have been lovingly curated by the elder Mrs. Melpignano. The public sitting room — sumptuous couches, serious oil paintings, roaring fire — is period perfect, so warm and inviting that I spent a Sunday morning reading the papers as natural light streamed in through the enormous, original windows.

Another point of differentiation is the staff: They're all Italian, and most from the same town in Puglia. This adds a sweet aspect to a stay here. Everyone is eager to please, to try their English, and to make you feel a part of their family, if only for a short while.

The deluxe suite terrace.

What's on Site

This is primarily a place to (peacefully) lay your head. No swanky bar and no spa, but there's a sweet breakfast room on the lower level. The staff takes great pride in serving everything from full English breakfasts to egg white omelettes (with a bit of translation required). The Deluxe Suite has a terrace overlooking the iconic townhouses and chimney pots of Chelsea. For my money, there's no better spot to enjoy a summer breakfast.

The Food

The breakfast offerings are excellent — fresh fruit, flaky croissants, and seriously strong coffee — and the sweet waiter will source whatever they don't have on hand (in my case, an icy Diet Coke which I think he had to run to the Sainsbury's to get, yet another gracious touch). Afternoon tea served in the main sitting room feels quintessentially English, right down to the overstuffed chairs and collection of antique silver. Lunch and dinner are available as is a nice room service option for late arrivals. The neighborhood has so many wonderful restaurants, from delicious Lebanese holes-in the-wall to fine dining establishments, that you'll want to walk the 500 yards to some of London's best meals.

A gallery suite bedroom.

Room with a View

There are 17 rooms in four categories. All have high ceilings and marble bathrooms; most have enormous bay windows, opulent draperies, and precious antiques. The Deluxe Suite is the top of the line, followed by Junior Suites decorated with vintage Louise Vuitton cases and gilt-framed paintings. Gallery Suites have a slightly regal vibe — velvet curtains with silk tie-backs, four-poster beds, and lots of rich red fabrics — while Deluxe Doubles have been designed in lighter palettes of cream and beige. Central air conditioning (still not the norm in small hotels), free WiFi, small flat screen TVs, and Molton Brown amenities round out the spare but practical room offerings.

This Place Is Perfect For...

Anyone who appreciates local color, Italian warmth, and good cheer. Just step outside the front door to see children going to nearby schools and people walking to the market. This is real London life, not busy, polished Mayfair. It's also perfect for anyone looking for an affordable, old-school weekend away or proximity to the shops and restaurants at the Brompton Cross.

But Not So Perfect For...

People with small children. You're living in close proximity, and no one needs the noise. Also not ideal for the sybarite in need of shiny, endless amenities, e.g. an on-site gym, vast room service offerings, or anyone with an aversion to heavy, slightly baroque décor. Consider this a very upscale B&B where you get real value for money.

Shake the London chill by the fire.

CHECKING OUT

Neighborhood Vibe

Chelsea is understated, well manicured, and definitely not the epicenter of the action in London. That said, it is full of beautiful architecture, particularly the white Georgian row houses with their colorful doors, and is also home to lovely parks and excellent restaurants. Staying in this part of town gives you a more local look at London life, and it's an easy jumping off point to nearby museums including the V&A and the Science Museum, the shops of Sloane Street, as well as the extremely cool Chelsea Physic Garden.

What to Do Nearby

Shopping is a major Chelsea highlight, and one of the best stores (anywhere) is the Conran Shop on Sloane Avenue. Not to be confused with the more mass Conran stores, this one-off is a highly edited, design-led emporium full of Eames and Saarinen furniture and the best letterpress cards, gifts, and accessories anywhere. Ideal for holiday gifts and stocking stuffers. Just steps away is the original Joseph boutique, a highly curated, multi-brand store with amazing fashions as well as practical pieces (pants and their signature sweater collections) at the annex across Walton Street.

Strolling the King's Road is a must, and Antiquarius is perfect for affordable vintage things, like Art Deco match strikers and silver picture frames, while Taschen Books in Duke of York Square has beautiful art and fashion-centric tomes. Muji is a must for desk accessories, as is Partridge's for snack foods. The massive Peter Jones is the place for practical, Union Jack-bedecked things.

Grab a picnic at Finns of Chelsea (prepared salads and sandwiches) and head for the slightly secret Chelsea Physic Garden or the Royal Hospital Gardens. Or have a light lunch at Itsu on Draycott Avenue. The best of this chain of restaurants, the Chelsea outpost has table service and a vibrant atmosphere. Other foodie highlights include Tom's Kitchen, noted chef Tom Aiken's comfort food spot; Manicomio for stylish breakfast, lunch or dinner with Italian flair; and Bibendum for celebratory lunches involving oysters. For excellent Lebanese food, I love Al Dar on the King's Road, where the chicken schwarma more than makes up for the ambience. For the best steak frites in town, go to La Brasserie, where the service is quite French. For a casual coffee or a light lunch, Baker & Spice is the place. Sit at a farmhouse table and order beautiful salads and baked goods, notably their enormous, signature meringues. This is a hip, farm-to-table spot that could easily flourish in the Berkshires or Williamsburg.

Good to Know

Chelsea closes early. Restaurants are finished by 10 p.m. and the streets get extremely quiet. On the plus side, the gastropubs are excellent (The Enterprise and Admiral Codrington are my favorites), flower vendors like Gilding the Lily are abundant, as are endless places for coffee including the café at Bibendum, Aubaine, and Poco.

Book It

Rates start at £195. Click here for reservations.

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A chic coat from a new niche label

Permanent Collection presents a clutch of timeless classics

I’m approaching winter this year with a certain glee, as I have a new coat ready and waiting in the wings. The navy-blue boiled-wool Yvonne coat ($950, also available in Loden green) from recently launched line Permanent Collection caught my eye with its pared-down silhouette and meticulous attention to detail. In a belted, almost bathrobe-like style with a full funnel collar, it can look both casual and unstructured worn with slouchy jeans as well as creating a more cinched, put-together profile paired with tailored trousers. It’s a particularly flattering fit on my shorter-than-average frame and features sumptuous silk-lined sleeves and deep pockets.

Permanent Collection porcelain cups, $350 for four

I have the distinct feeling that my made-in-New-York coat will be a wardrobe workhorse for many seasons to come, and therein lies the crux of this new label created by London-based Californians Mariah Nielson and Fanny Singer. All the Permanent Collection pieces are meant to be just that: permanent, timeless and elegant clothing and accessories based on classic designs. The wool/crepe Agnes coat ($1,200), for example, takes a tuxedo jacket as its starting point, while a pair of simple French leather slider sandals ($350) have been ever-so-slightly reimagined.

Permanent Collection leather slider sandals, $350

Founders Nielson and Singer – the daughter of celebrated chef Alice Waters – were both studying design and art history when they met at a party in 2012, so it’s not surprising that their tightly edited debut range combines clothing and accessories with a four-piece set of sculptural porcelain cups ($350), inspired by the designs of Nielson’s father, celebrated artist JB Blunk. And their second collection, which debuts in November, will see scarves and jewellery added to their stylish offering.

Modern Moroccan crafts at Marrakech’s 33 Rue Majorelle

The chef, restaurateur and newly minted hotelier shares hidden gourmet highlights and perennial cultural favourites with Christina Ohly Evans.

Our store is the antithesis of the crowded souk,” says Monique Bresson, who with Yehia Abdelnour runs 33 Rue Majorelle in the flourishing Guéliz district of Marrakech. This delightful two-storey space fuses the made-by-hand skills of the medina with the chic, calm aura of Paris boutiques such as Colette and Merci. “We specialise in modern takes on classic Moroccan crafts,” says Abdelnour of the wares by over 90 different artisans – from ceramics and paintings to design-led fashion and beauty products. “Under one roof you’ll find all the vibrant talents that exist in Morocco today, from both local master craftsmen who work with traditional techniques and foreign designers who have moved here.”

Crocheted Hamimi lantern, £71-£205 | Image: Terry Munson Photo

Bresson’s eye for emerging and established talent – honed during her years as the buyer for the boutique at the nearby Amanjena resort – results in “harmonies of colour and texture that are partitioned into spare, little corners, each telling a designer’s specific story.” From Atelier Nihal, for example, there are handwoven jacquard babouches (from Dh310, about £24) and leather pochettes (about £40-£125); Chez Zoé, which has a boutique in the city’s sleek La Mamounia hotel, offers simple cotton djellabas and pyjamas (about £55-£87); while local design star Noureddine Amir’s delicately embroidered tunics (about £158-£435) would pair beautifully with the statement-making, Berber-inspired brass jewellery (about £35-£55) by Australian expat brother-sister team Hamimi.

The range of homewares is equally tactile and tempting: Moroccan mint tea glasses (about £9 for a set of six) are made from recycled green glass by Beldi Country Club in contemporary shapes, and black and white patterned pottery (vases, about £31, coffee cups, about £10) by No.m Création is juxtaposed with patterned Plexiglas trays (about £63) by Le Collectif, Abdelnour’s own line that cannot be sourced elsewhere. Other hard-to-find pieces include carpets by Djeann (about £474-£632) that refashion torn strips of denim and hemp fabric into geometric designs, and embroidered vintage photographs (about £205) by BD Interiors, which line the store’s white walls. Particularly popular with holiday-makers are the striking crocheted Hamimi lanterns (about £71-£205) “in hues that vary with the seasons, from wintry greys to stripes for spring,” says Bresson, pointing out that they are “foldable, so can be brought home easily”.

Less suitcase-friendly, however, is the series of huge and intriguing metal cacti (about £237-£2,370) by artisan collective Orenzo, which are hand-painted to yield the perfect patina. But there is one element of 33 Rue Majorelle that won’t impact your luggage allowance: the bright and contemporary 16 Kawa Café, which specialises in pâtisserie orientale and organic juices – and is just the spot to take in all the woven, embroidered, henna-painted and sculpted joy this space exudes.

Bright and brilliant Brazilian clutch bags

Eye-catching custom marquetry designs by Silvia Furmanovich

The one-of-a-kind clutch bags by Brazilian jeweller Silvia Furmanovich are mini marvels of marquetry. The result of a labour-intensive, month-long process, each is made of sustainably sourced wood from the Amazon rainforest in northern Brazil, with Furmanovich’s vibrant images translated into detailed wooden forms by artisans in the remote Brazilian state of Acre.

Silvia Furmanovich emerald-inspired clutch bag with a cabochon tourmaline clasp, price on request

Designed in close collaboration with a client, the colourful clutches ($5,000-$7,000) begin with a theme – insects, flowers, far-flung travels or even the facets of gemstones – before the design is set, then pressed and curved into such woods as red muirapiranga, yellow tatajuba, purple roxinho and azul carvalho. Shapes vary from rectangles to octagons, with bright hues (deep reds, aubergines and brilliant yellows) – a Furmanovich trademark. Back in Furmonovich’s São Paulo atelier, finishing touches range from shells to precious stones such as vivid tourmalines, topazes, citrines and fire opals, all set in 18ct gold.

A signature scarab design on one of Silvia Furmanovich’s clutch bags, price on request

Recent commissions have included a sleek butterfly clutch accented with citrines and tourmalines in unusual shades of rose green; one depicting celestial skies in inky blue and black marquetry, with an intricate mother-of-pearl inlay depicting a luminous moon; as well as a geometric emerald-inspired poche with a spectacular cabochon tourmaline clasp. Clear diamonds are another starting point for Furmanovich, involving a more neutral palette of black, white and grey, while her signature scarab designs are also popular.

Missoni's Hands-Off Fashion Executive

CEO Emilio Carbonera Giani sees positive long-term results thanks to a laissez-faire approach.

You’ve spent your career in fashion—at Valentino, Salvatore Ferragamo, and the menswear brand Caruso. What has been your path?

I started in banking and then moved into textiles, which led me to the Marzotto Group, the then-owner of Valentino. From there I went on to Ferragamo, where I worked with my mentor, [former CEO] Michele Norsa. Caruso was completely different because it’s a very small company and focused exclusively on bespoke suiting. The common thread throughout my work has been that in Italy, most of the luxury fashion brands are family-owned. Working with families has major advantages: They tend to make decisions with a longer-term view, rather than being focused on short-term results or dealing with shareholders.

You’ve been COO of Missoni since 2015. What have been the biggest changes under your tenure?

I have focused on e-commerce—an important area for us—as well as next steps for merchandising. In two or three years I hope we’ll be able to add accessories like small bags and leather goods.

Where are the next big markets for Missoni?

China—and there are opportunities in India, but not in the short term. The luxury market is still very small there, and while there are many affluent people, it is just starting to grow for us. The U.S. is a traditionally strong market, so we’ll keep that up while focusing on the Far East—Thailand and Vietnam—and South America.

How would you describe your management style? 

I tend to be very practical: direct and to the point, sometimes too much so. I don’t micromanage. Our offices are set in Varese, in the countryside, and most of the staff lives in and around this area, and the office culture reflects that.

Missoni has an interesting strategy around monobrand boutiques vs. multi-brand stores. How do you select where to sell and why?

We’re a small company and can’t open thousands of stand-alone boutiques—we currently have nine—and the look of the collection works well for multi-brand stores, like Shin Kong Place in Beijing. Major department stores are our biggest point of sale. In terms of stand-alone stores, Paris is our most successful, despite the difficult times there, followed by Rome, Milan, and New York.

Who is your core customer? 

Americans, Germans, the British, and Middle Eastern clients are all very important, and Italians make up 10 percent of our sales. Our customer appreciates our creative process: We dye the yarn, weave the fabrics, and create the color pattern combinations. Our things are artisanal from the start through to the finished product, and this isn’t common in most fashion houses.

What is next for Missoni?

We’ll continue to develop [our less-expensive line] M Missoni, which is very important to the overall business and to our licensees. There aren’t any near-term collaborations like we did with Target, but we’ll continue to partner with other companies that are the top in their category. We’ve had recent successful partnerships with Converse and Havaianas, and we’ll continue to do more of these. On the residential side, we’re doing the Missoni Baia residences in Miami with developer Vladislav Doronin. This project allows us to offer a full image of Missoni to the world. We’ve done previous hotel projects—in Kuwait and Edinburgh, Scotland—and we weren’t particularly happy with them, so now we select partners very carefully and only link our name to super first-class properties.

What is luxury now? 

It’s something very personal. Something you can’t find everywhere. Luxury is scarcity.

Clear Blue Hawaii: creative kayaks

Online inspiration for sea adventurers

Here’s a suggestion for adventure lovers: Clear Blue Hawaii is a website of eye-catching, portable boats suitable for all sorts of sea exploration, from paddleboards to single-person skiffs to five-person tenders. Take, for instance, the award-winning Napali ($6,351, first and second picture) – a sculptural, foldable, single-person kayak that weighs only 12kg and is so functionally beautiful that it has been made a part of the permanent collection of the Museum of Modern Art. The Napali comprises a corrosion-resistant Kevlar frame and a transparent, polyurethane shell. It measures 4m in length but can be stored easily in a backpack and put together in less than 30 minutes, making exploring crystalline waters and hard-to-reach coves a breeze.

Other Clear Blue Hawaii creations include the two-person Molokini ($2,299), which has padded seats and a V-shaped hull and is perfect for beginners due to its relative stability. It is made of the same durable polycarbonate that is used to make bulletproof glass and fighter-jet canopies, yet weighs an easily transportable 18kg. The Molokai ($3,705), meanwhile, is a five-person yacht tender made of a military-grade material that comes in a vibrant array of colours – mandarin-orange, continental blue and chili red, for instance – and features a durable deck, as well as two-piece oars and two-person benches. There’s also the inflatable Hanauma II kayak ($949, third picture) that holds two people and is ideal for touring.

Many of the models feature the same transparent windows that allow for dazzling underwater discoveries. But if it’s online surfing you’re after for now, the site features detailed product information and a stunning image library of the products in a variety of settings that promises to banish the winter blues.

Rosetta Getty talks personal taste

Rosetta Getty is the founder of her eponymous womenswear brand, known for its minimal, elegant pieces with sophisticated silhouettes

My personal style signifiers are vintage Levi’s 501 jeans, white or black T-shirts, and button-down shirts of my own design. I like a uniform that is clean, classic and a bit predictable but that also has a slightly quirky edge. I wear these staple pieces with my new favourite running shoes – in either black or white – by Athletic Propulsion Labs. My clothes are all about comfort and moving from the school run to work to a business lunch and then out to dinner. $165;www.athleticpropulsionlabs.com. www.levi.com.

Mussel Shell sculpture by Carol Bove, price on request

The last thing I bought and loved was a simple Jil Sander Panama-style straw hat that I have been living in. I often wear hats, but have never loved one this much. It’s a bit precious so I have to put it in a box when I travel. And I recently added a pair of ultra-thin, delicate hoop earrings in 14ct gold by LA-based designer Kathleen Whitaker to my jewellery collection, along with a pair of dangly gold earrings that I found in the Céline boutique in Florence; they look beautiful with casual or dressy clothes. £310; www.celine.com. $145 per earring; www.kathleenwhitaker.com.

And the thing I’m eyeing next is a sculpture by New York-based artist Carol Bove. I am a fan of sculpture generally, but I particularly love her use of natural materials and organic shapes. She employs lines in her assemblages I am drawn toward. www.davidzwirner.com.

Café Gratitude almond I Am Joy chocolates, $3 each

A recent “find” is Ceri Vintage & Factory, an amazing, under-the-radar vintage store in Florence. It specialises in workwear from the 1920s to the 1970s, and I found leather jackets, wide-legged trousers and the most amazing vintage Levi’s there. Two of my daughters are now wearing all of my clothes, so I am trying to fill in the wardrobe gaps – this boutique was a huge help. Via de’ Serragli 26/R, 50124 Florence (+39335-839 0356).

Getty’s Jil Sander straw hat | Image: Patrick Fraser

The item in my wardrobe that I’ll keep to pass on is my entire vintage collection – hopefully to my girls one day. Though if I had to pick one piece, it would at the moment be a black wool stretch dress by Comme des Garçons from one of Rei Kawakubo’s first collections. www.comme-des-garcons.com.

Her Céline gold earrings, £310, Cartier diamond ring and Kathleen Whitaker gold hoop earrings, $145 each | Image: Patrick Fraser

The last meal that truly impressed me was at Defune in Marylebone. I have been going there for 15 years but recently rediscovered it with my children when we were staying at Chiltern Firehouse just around the corner. The space is tiny – like a Japanese café – but for an elevated dining experience you can opt for the more formal downstairs area. We loved the casual family feel upstairs, as well as the fresh sashimi and creative maki sushi rolls. The whole experience felt entirely authentic. 34 George St, London W1 (020‑7935 8311; www.defune.co.uk).

The best souvenirs I’ve brought home are exquisitely embroidered cushions from Emporio Le Sirenuse, Carla Sersale’s shop at Le Sirenuse Hotel in Positano. We visit the area every year, and her beautiful things make the best mementoes. These particular cushions are in neutral tones, but she has brighter versions as well. I always bring back her simple, soft cotton loungewear as well – I wear these pieces as pyjamas. From £164; Via Cristoforo Colombo 103, Positano (+39089-811 468; www.emporiosirenuse.com).

An indulgence I would never forgo is almond I Am Joy chocolates from Café Gratitude in Los Angeles. They’re delicious and deceptively healthy, made of shredded coconut, almonds and a hard chocolate shell, with no added sugar. $3 each; 639 N Larchmont Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90004 (+1323-580 6383; www.cafegratitude.com).

The best gift I’ve received recently was a square Cartier diamond solitaire, c1930 – from my husband [Balthazar Getty] on our 15th wedding anniversary. I’m not typically a diamond person, but this one is so unusual. It’s very masculine, which I love, and it’s just perfect for me. www.cartier.co.uk.

Bobbi Brown Makes It Look Easy

After 25 years in the industry, cosmetics titan Bobbi Brown continues to espouse natural beauty.

The name Bobbi Brown is synonymous with effortless beauty. Since she founded her eponymous brand in 1991 with $10,000 and a single nude shade of lipstick, the celebrity makeup artist has sought to empower women to look and feel their best. She must have been doing something right, because four years later the company was acquired by beauty behemoth Estée Lauder for an undisclosed sum, making Bobbi Brown Cosmetics an international powerhouse.

Brown is warm and wickedly funny, and her holistic approach to beauty appeals to women of all ages and ethnicities—throughout more than 70 countries, and in 100 brick-and-mortar stores around the globe. This wide-ranging popularity has led to sales figures that, by some estimates, account for 10 percent of all Estée Lauder revenues.

What began as a reaction to the artificial, excessive, overly contoured makeup that was so popular in the 1980s—think Cyndi Lauper, Madonna, and Debbie Harry with bright red lips, heavy eye shadows, and impasto blush—Bobbi Brown grew quickly from 10 lipsticks to a cosmetics empire that includes products like Foundation Sticks, Creamy Concealer Kits, Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner, and Shimmer Bricks. The brand has expanded from makeup and skin care to include fragrances, as well as a range of nail polishes, brushes and tools, and most recently, eyewear. The through line for all of Brown’s products is that they are designed to enhance—rather than to hide—a woman’s best features, and all are conceived with time, efficiency, and ease of use in mind.

Brown’s achievements aren’t limited to the visage: She is the recipient of numerous awards, a bestselling author, and was appointed by President Obama to the Advisory Committee for Trade Policy and Negotiations, the United States government’s senior trade advisory panel.

A visit to Bobbi Brown’s SoHo headquarters paints a clear picture of the brand’s success: It is a loft-like, airy environment where people freely share ideas and where you’re likely to see a dog or a child. Brown sat down with Surface to discuss 25 years of makeup and her other pursuits.

What was your path to the realm of makeup?

I have always loved it; the way it can make you feel instantly prettier, more tanned, glowing. I never loved school and I even considered dropping out at one point. My mom asked me, “If you could do anything, what would it be?” to which I responded, “I’d like to go to Marshall Field’s and play with makeup.” She encouraged me to follow my passion and study theatrical makeup, so I found my way to Emerson College in Boston, where they allowed me to design my own major. This was the first time in my life that I was surrounded by like-minded, creative people who were just passionate about whatever they were doing. It was there that I learned that what you put in is what you get out—this is also known as entrepreneurship.

What was the makeup world like in New York when you were starting out?

I moved to New York in the ’80s and everyone was into contouring, pale skin, and artificial everything, including fuchsia lipsticks and electric blue eye shadow. I was doing shoots featuring models with natural, beautiful, evenly toned skin and I was the only one doing it at the time. This look appealed to photographers like Bruce Weber and Arthur Elgort, who preferred a healthier look. I also worked with photographers like Steven Klein who opted for a more severe look, but this just wasn’t in my comfort zone. I did a Vogue cover with Tatjana Patitz where she appeared strong, but clean and fresh, and this was a breakthrough moment for me.

Are there other breakthrough moments that stand out?

I’ll never forget my first Vogue cover shoot in 1987. It was with Naomi Campbell and Patrick Demarchelier, on a beach at daybreak, and it changed my career. I went on to work with Walter Chin, Victor Skrebneski, and Horst P. Horst, to name but a few.

Tell me about the brand’s beginnings?

It all started with a nude lipstick. Everything on the market at the time was dry or greasy or smelly, so I asked a chemist who I’d met at Kiehl’s to formulate a lipstick for me using a combination of a taupe eye pencil, a pinkish-blue blush, and lip balm. I wanted a lipstick that looked like lips. From that first lipstick, I went on to create 10 Bobbi Brown Essentials: a targeted, edited collection of the most beautiful lip colors that included Salmon, Beige, Raisin, Brown, Rise, Pink, Orange, Blackberry, Burnt Red, and Red.

It’s astounding that you can rattle those colors off from memory? Where and how did the brand launch?

Initially, my husband, Steven Plofker, and I had two partners, Rosalind and John Landis. We joined forces and launched this brand in 1991, all while keeping our day jobs. Shortly thereafter I met the beauty buyer for Bergdorf Goodman at a cocktail party, and I pitched her then and there. Bergdorf’s took our product, and we thought we’d sell 100 lipsticks in the first month—but we sold 100 on the first day. This led to the launch of lip pencils, eye pencils, eye shadow, and so on.

How did the sale to Estée Lauder Companies come about?

When the brand was four years old, Frédéric Fekkai called me and said “Leonard Lauder wants to meet you.” I said yes, of course, although we weren’t interested in selling the company. I went to a dinner at Leonard and Evelyn’s house. I remember the night well because we sat outside overlooking the park, eating grilled fish, steamed broccoli, and brown rice, with the philharmonic playing in the distance. He had done his research and knew that I loved healthy food and good wine, so this won me over right away. He said that I reminded him of his mother when she started her business, and also that we were beating them in all the stores, so they wanted to buy us. He knew that being a wife and a mother was incredibly important to me, and he assured me that I’d have complete autonomy and the ability to balance those big parts of my life. He has never wavered on this.

Speaking of work/life balance, you’re a pro. Teach me.

I learned balance from my husband, Steven. He chose to be a real estate developer so that he could be home at night and have dinner with his kids. We have always supported each other in our work and in our family life. A perfect example of this was early in my career, when I was booked to do a cover shoot with Nikki Taylor in Florida. It was during the kids’ school vacation, and so Steven offered to fly down with them, but someone got an ear infection and couldn’t get on the plane. Instead he took the overnight train so that we could all be together. For both of us, family has always come first, and when I am with them I try to be completely present.

I’d like to think we could all have that kind of discipline. Has this sacred balance led to any missed opportunities?

There were moments early in my career that tested my priorities. When Bruce Weber asked me to do a three-week shoot for Ralph Lauren in Tahiti and I passed, or when I opted to skip a dinner with Francesco Scavullo and Jean-Paul Gaultier in favor of meeting my husband and young son, Dylan, for a planned dinner in SoHo. In these cases, however, when one door closed, another one opened and led to a new product line or an idea for a book.

For a brief time the company was located at Estée Lauder’s Midtown Manhattan offices. Now you’re in SoHo. Why?

Post-acquisition, our sales flattened. I told the CEO at the time that I felt stuck in an uncreative box and that I wanted to move downtown, and have an open-plan work environment, with music, a healthy kitchen, and people wearing jeans. I need to be able to open the windows. They supported me wholeheartedly and our sales went back up.

Just like that? Wow. Let’s talk about advice. What’s the best nugget you’ve ever received in business?

Leonard Lauder told me, “Never ask for permission; ask for forgiveness” and this is how I operate. Mickey Drexler of J. Crew is another role model, and he always says “Just keep doing what you think you should be doing,” instead of focusing on other people or fleeting trends.

Now you. What beauty advice can you offer me?

Healthy looks beautiful, and it comes from the inside. Eating well, getting enough sleep, wearing sunscreen, drinking water, and exercising are all important. Use moisturizer, as it’s the fountain of youth, and resist doing things like seeing the dermatologist too much when you’re having a down moment. At difficult times, put your hair up and don’t look in the mirror—this is when mistakes are made. Also, choose to look your age, and don’t try to erase all of the lines and imperfections.

OK, let’s pivot into broad strokes. What are the best things about your success?

I’ve been exposed to so many incredible things: I’ve seen the world, and I get to help so many different kinds of women feel better about themselves. Then there are the perks: I’ve been to a state dinner at the White House, I’ve danced with [rapper] Flo Rida, spent time with Mick Jagger, I’ve traveled with my family all over the world. I also get to be surrounded by an incredible team at work, and my life is better and fuller because of them.

The company has been around for 25 years now. Is this a major milestone for you?

When I started my business I never imagined that it would grow to be what it is today, and I’m proud that our brand philosophy remains the same as it was 25 years ago. Our products are driven by the needs of our consumers, and we are committed to empowering women. I plan to continue to develop effective products that meet the needs of all different kinds of women.

Are you going to celebrate?

Yes, we are celebrating the brand’s original mission with the launch of our “Be Who You Are” campaign that highlights the individuality of women across different ages and ethnicities and celebrates my lifelong beauty secret: to be who you are. We’ve had so many great moments, but what really stands out to me are the countless women I’ve met over the years who have inspired me with their stories. Beyond makeup, we’ve talked about life-altering events; everything from the joy of being a new mom to dealing with homelessness and divorce.

Now let’s try a little Proust questionnaire. What does the future of beauty look like?

I think it will be a combination of health and wellness—and it will be about beauty from the inside. There will be an emphasis on foods that boost health, and help nourish the skin and nails. I think you’ll see makeup that gives a natural glow—gel bronzers, cream blush—that’s very sheer, light, and clean. A glowing look versus a more matte skin finish will be popular, and good moisturizer will be key.

What’s a little-known fact about you?

I got my Today show guest beauty editor gig—one that I did for 16 years—because I met Jeff Zucker’s grandmother at a party and we hit it off. She recommended me to him, and the rest is history.

Where do you like to spend your down time?

With my kids. Whether that’s in the mountains in Telluride, or on the beach in Bayhead, on the Jersey Shore, or at home in Montclair, I love spending time with my three boys, my husband, and my dog, Biggie.

If you weren’t in the beauty business, what would you like to be doing?

I’m a big believer in foods that heal and in eating things that come from the earth. If I weren’t running this business, I’d like to own wellness cafes and provide nutritional coaching. While I’m not a great cook, I love good food and think it’s tightly tied to beauty. I also love editorial work—I was the editor-in-chief of Yahoo Beauty—and would enjoy being involved in magazine publishing.

You’re a famously healthy, clean eater. What’s your kryptonite?

Casa Dragones tequila, followed by the occasional French fry off of a friend’s plate.

Woven metal artworks with the wow factor

Dougall Paulson creates shimmering statement pieces

“We envisioned a textile that vibrates with light, like an other-worldly seascape,” says Sean Dougall of the jewellery-grade metal weavings that he and partner Andrew Paulson create from their studio in Watts, Los Angeles. “We were immediately drawn to the potential of fine wire and quickly learnt that it is a material that doesn’t really want to be woven; it’s slippery, stiff and coils up on itself. But we were determined to master this exquisite – albeit stubborn – material.”

The results of this self-taught duo’s labour-intensive efforts range from woven tatami mats (from $1.50 to $5 per square inch, second picture) and lustrous wall hangings (from $4,500, first picture) to expansive screens and installations. Using a variety of metals – including black steel, bronze, brass and nickel alloys and sterling-silver-plated brass – Dougall and Paulson weave exquisitely simple patterns, as well as horizontal and vertical bands of colour, while other recent material explorations have included cultivated silk from Assam and a Japanese material comprising pigmented pure silver on rice paper. The glimmering finished textiles all have a magical molten-metal appearance and “straddle the line between fine, decorative and graphic arts,” says Dougall.

Each commission can take several months to complete, with the loom (third picture) alone taking a week to set up. “It’s impossible to mechanise the loom,” explains Paulson, “and the hundreds of wires comprising a warp must be put in the proper sequence, under the same tension.” But for these eye-catching, cosmic-tinged works of art, it’s worth the wait.

A long weekend in Lyon with Daniel Boulud

The Michelin-starred chef takes Christina Ohly Evans through France’s undisputed capital of gastronomy. Portrait by Fabio Massimo Aceto

Lyon has always been empowered by industry and by a rich rural history – it is south of Burgundy and Beaujolais, north of the Rhône Valley – and there are Roman and Renaissance references everywhere. But it has also played an important role in French history: throughout the wars and in times of great change, it has been famous for craftsmanship. The silks, fabrics, steel, intricate woodwork, passementerie – all have long been sought after across the world, and in recent times Lyon has been a leading supplier for luxury brands such as Hermès. From the hilltop Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière to the mysterious underground traboules, this city with two rivers and multiple bridges has a similar beauty to Paris, but on a much smaller scale.

Lyon’s Hotel de Ville with the Fontaine Bartholdi in the foreground | Image: Günter Lenz/Getty Images

One of the very special aspects of Lyon is that food has always been a strong focus. Historically it’s an industrial city, so people had money to spend on it; there has always been a cuisine bourgeoise, and working-class people frequented simple bouchons, where an excellent meal could be had for the price of cooking at home. These establishments are still a staple of Lyon life. When people started driving from Paris to Nice in the 20th century, Lyon became the natural stopping point, and the city had a high concentration of Michelin-starred establishments. Lyon remains the capitale de la gastronomie, though we all still look to Paris, of course.

I visit Lyon five times a year, and I especially love the city in summer, when everyone is outside in the parks and at the farmers’ markets and there are outdoor musical celebrations, such as the festival Les Nuits de Fourvière, held in the Roman amphitheatre. One of my favourite places to stay is Le Royal Hotel, a former family home on Place Bellecour that is now a 74-room hotel. It’s part of the Institut Paul Bocuse, so it’s a culinary school and hotel all in one, elegant and traditional. Another wonderful place for accommodation is Cour des Loges, in the heart of Old Lyon. This Renaissance building has a three-storey frescoed courtyard and the rooms have a cosy, slightly austere feel. One of the most special places to stay, however, is Villa Florentine, which is a boutique Relais & Châteaux hotel in the hills overlooking the city. It has an excellent table and the best views of the town below. It’s a little challenging to get up there, as it is reached by small, winding roads, but it’s worth the effort.

Inside one of the greenhouses at the Parc de la Tête d’Or | Image: © Hemis/Alamy Stock Photo

A great day in Lyon begins at the lively food market Les Halles de Lyon – Paul Bocuse, where you can sample oysters for breakfast, followed by sea urchin, tripe, offal or even tête de veau, and perhaps a glass of wine. All the chefs go there to shop and start their day, and it’s a wonderful place to get picnic ingredients before heading to the Parc de la Tête d’Or in the sixth arrondissement. The largest urban park in France, it has everything from a boating lake to bike trails to a rose garden; it’s a lovely place to spend an afternoon.

The bar at Cour des Loges | Image: Cour des Loges/G Picout, MPM, A Rico, ME Brouet & DR

Before you go, stop at Charcuterie Sibilia to buy meats, particularly the sausage with pistachio and truffle in brioche, and the local minced pork speciality, Jésu de Lyon. For excellent cheeses, you must visit La Mère Richard; its Fourme d’Ambert, Cantal and Saint-Nectaire from the Auvergne are among the best in the world. For pains au levain and praline tarts, Boulangerie Jocteur is a must; it also offers beautiful prepared foods.

Pâté en croûte at Daniel & Denise, a traditional Lyon bouchon | Image: Daniel & Denise

But shopping isn’t limited to Les Halles. I like to buy old cookbooks in the Presqu’île – or “peninsula” – district, near the historic Place des Terreaux. On the east side of the square sits the Hôtel de Ville, a city hall redesigned in baroque style by Jules Hardouin-Mansart after a fire in the 17th century. The surrounding streets are home to bookstores such as Librairie Ancienne Clagahé, which has rare leather-bound books and manuscripts. You’ll also find the city’s most beautiful square, the Place Bellecour, which sits between the Rhône and Saône rivers and is lined with elegant 19th-century buildings.

Another area for exploration is the Croix-Rousse, a historic district that was home to silk weavers – or canuts – and is now Lyon’s answer to hipster Brooklyn. Here you’ll find all kinds of wonderful restaurants, including Balthaz’art, a retro-chic bistro with a creative Montbéliarde beef tartare mixed with black olives, capers and candied lemon. Lunch at Daniel & Denise – an authentic bouchon, complete with red check tablecloths – is another highlight; clapeton d’agneau (chilled, shredded lamb’s feet served atop salad) is a speciality. La Meunière is another such place, where most things are served communally: meals begin with bowls of lentils, celery remoulade and pickled ox muzzle, followed by thick slices of a house pâté en croûte that’s called l’oreiller – “pillow” – de la belle meunière and is filled with foie gras, duck heart, chicken, veal and more.

One newer restaurant is Le Suprême, a modern bistro started by one of my former chefs from Daniel in New York – full disclosure: I’m a minority investor. It offers an inventive, affordable tasting menu focused on poulet de Bresse prepared in many different ways – such as chicken liver mousse or stuffed chicken legs – all with wines from producers such as Jean Foillard and Saint-Joseph. For a fancier lunch place, there is La Mère Brazier – the chicken cooked in a pig’s bladder is a highlight – after which you can wander the indoor-outdoor Les Puces du Canal, where you’ll find memorabilia, antique toys, vintage clothing and furnishings – most of which can be shipped back home. The Museum of Gallo-Roman Civilisation has an incredible collection of mosaics, statues and ceramics. After an afternoon of discovery here, I recommend a visit to Bernachon for a coffee and the best chocolates and sweets anywhere. It was founded in the 1950s, and the family has been making “bean to bar” chocolate on site since the 1970s.

No trip to Lyon is complete without a meal at L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, a temple of gastronomy that sits right on the Saône. The restaurant resembles a colourful Thai palace, and the food is just as elaborate. Loup de mer en croûte feuilletée with sauce Choron – a Béarnaise with tomato – and the oeufs à la neige are two of my favourite dishes, and you must have Bernachon’s signature Le Président cake: an incredible ganache dessert topped with shaved chocolate. It’s basically chocolate atop chocolate atop chocolate, and it’s sublime.

Vieux Lyon – or the Old City – is a designated Unesco World Heritage site; the quartiers Saint-Jean and Saint-Georges are both full of winding cobblestone streets with great examples of medieval architecture. The Cathedral of Saint-Jean, which dates from the 12th century, features beautiful stained-glass windows and an astronomical clock that is one of the largest in Europe. But then there are plenty of things to do just outside the city as well, not least a visit to the three-Michelin-star Maison Troisgros for lunch. The train takes you through the beautiful Beaujolais countryside and delivers you to the restaurant door in a little over an hour. Another worthwhile lunch excursion is, of course, the train ride to Valence for a delicious lunch at Anne-Sophie Pic’s Maison Pic. And just outside town, an easy taxi ride away, is the Henri Malartre Museum, a vast collection of everything car- and motorcycle-related – from vintage to modern vehicles – housed in a beautiful 12th-century castle.

But besides its natural and architectural endowments, and its culinary status, Lyon is beautiful because it has stayed true to its historical roots. Tradition still matters very much here. Of course, it’s a dynamic city embracing technology and investing in the future: the culture of sport (particularly football), the culture of food, the cultures of art and artisans – these are all celebrated. But the people of Lyon perfected l’art de vivre – the art of living – a long time ago and this is what has kept it a special place.

Start the Day with the World's Best Hotel Breakfasts

Fresh-baked breads. Never-ending eggs. Extravagant pastry towers. Who doesn't love a sumptuous hotel breakfast? Certainly not Christina Ohly. The hotel-hopper extraordinaire put together a list of spreads worth traveling for, which include a few recommendations from Team Fathom. (We couldn't help it. We're equally obsessed.)

Everyone knows that breakfast is the most important meal of the day, something that rings true and clear during a hotel stay. My daughter Kate, who doubles as my intrepid travel companion, has pointed out on numerous occasions that a fine breakfast spread — and it doesn't have to be fancy, just delicious, beautiful, and even quirky — is often worth planning an entire trip around. With that in mind, here are a few of our most memorable morning meals.

The rooftop breakfast. Photo courtesy of La Scelta di Goethe.

La Scelta di Goethe

Where: Rome, Italy
What's to love: The small all-suite hotel — which is really more like a sumptuous private apartment — offers the most spectacular spread of cheeses, salami, muesli, fruit tarts, and freshly baked breads on its expansive private terrace. No one but you, with your deliciously strong pot of coffee, will be overlooking Villa Borghese, endless cupolas, and Vatican City in the distance. The peel of church bells and seagulls standing sentry adds to the lovely, very local vibe.
Check in: Book a Room

The carb-lovers breakfast. Photo courtesy of La Mamounia.

La Mamounia

Where: Marrakech, Morocco
What's to love: Start with the service. You'll never find kinder people offering fresh juices, strong coffee, and Moroccan mint tea infusions, all in a poolside pavilion setting with lush garden views. The breakfast spread is magnificent and very authentic. Local specialties including khobz (flatbread) with olive oil and jam, sweet rolls studded with anise and sesame seeds, a version of pancakes, as well as meats, cheeses, and all kinds of eggs cooked to order.
Check in: Book a Room

The Japanese-style vegetarian breakfast. Photo by Berit Baugher.

Hoshinoya Tokyo

Where: Tokyo, Japan
What's to love: Quite possibly one of the best room service breakfasts in existence can be experienced at this new ryokan-style hotel. A beautiful wooden box is brough to your suite by a kimono-clad attendant who carefully explains each small plate. Even though it will be hard to follow most of what she says, and even though you might never know what you're really eating, you'll be delighted by each and every bite.
Check in: Book a Room

The vegan petit dejeuner. Photo courtesy of La Réserve.

La Réserve

Where: Paris, France
What's to love: The signature vitality breakfast is a gluten-free, vegan take on a classic Paris petit dejeuner, with detox juice, lemon-ginger herbal tea, pastries, buckwheat and berry muesli with almond milk, avocado with hempseed gomasio, raw everything, and even a take on French toast with coconut butter. Fashion editors, designers, and the haute couture crowd flock to this Jacques Garcia-designed gem during Fashion Week. Be sure to book ahead.
Check in: Book a Room

The savory spread. Photo courtesy of The Ritz-Carlton Kapalua.

The Ritz-Carlton Kapalua

Where: Maui, Hawaii
What's to love: Fuel-up for a day of biking down the side of a volcano with a buffet extravaganza that includes all kinds of island specialties: POG (papaya, orange, and guava) juice, Portuguese sweet bread, and a seed bar — chia, flax, poppy, sesame — more comprehensive than the Whole Foods bulk bin isle. Fresh tofu, steamed rice, and a full salad bar add savory, healthy touches.
Check in: Book a Room

The healthy option. Photo courtesy of Claridge's.

Claridge's

Where: London, United Kingdom
What's to love: Everything. The Art Deco setting, pots of proper Sri Lankan teas (theirs is bespoke), and all kinds of delicious dishes like vegan scrambled tofu on rye bread with tempeh, pork gyoza, and prawn dumplings from the Chinese menu, and flaky, gluten-free croissants. The chocolate coconut whey protein smoothies can't possibly be healthy, but sides of chicken sausage, grilled tomatoes, and wilted spinach most definitely are. Everything's to love about the old-school full English breakfast, complete with an omelette of fine herbs, granary toast, and fresh pink grapefruit juice. Plus, the people-watching is unparalleled.
Check in: Book a Room

The fashionista's choice. Photo courtesy of Four Seasons Hotel Milano.

Four Seasons Hotel Milano

Where: Milan, Italy
What's to love: The hotel has a completely different feel and clientele than most Four Seasons. Many fashion editors and other generally fabulous Fashion Week attendees have created demand for the Taste & Shine breakfast, comprised of freshly pressed juices and gluten-free everything, served while getting a quick-dry, or express-dry, manicure. Hungrier types will want to head to the dining room, where, on weekends, there is a special room dedicated to chocolate creations.
Check in: Book a Room

The best of Sicilian summer. Photo by Jeralyn Gerba.

Monaci delle Terre Nere

Where: Sicily, Italy
What's to love: Breakfast is served under a canvas canopy on a terraced hillside of pine and olive trees. The bounty is the best of Sicily in the summer: bowls of stone fruit, glass jars of sheeps' milk yogurt and local honey, blood orange juice, farm eggs, and fresh-baked loaves of Sicilian wheat — all of which have benefitted from Mount Etna's nutrient-rich soil. In the summer, a long and lazy taste-testing session (washed down with cappuccino) is unadulterated joy.
Check in: Book a Room

The Grand Restaurant. Photo courtesy of The Kulm Hotel.

The Kulm Hotel

Where: St. Moritz, Switzerland
What's to love: Breakfast in the baroque Grand Restaurant will leave you well-stoked for skiing, hiking, and high-end alpine shopping. Local specialties on the buffet include birchermüsli, bündnerfleisch (air-dried Grisons meat, an Engadine Valley speciality), real (thick!) hot chocolate, and the creamiest Tilsiter Swiss cheese. Other pluses include a comprehensive selection of regional butters, jams, and honeys, and perfectly formed, piping hot omelettes.
Check in: Book a Room

Il Palagio. Photo courtesy of Four Seasons Hotel Firenze.

Four Seasons Hotel Firenze

Where: Florence, Italy
What's to love: There is nothing typical about this Four Seasons. Set in a 16th-century frescoed palazzo, the Sunday brunch is, well, beyond memorable (I'm still talking about this meal five years later). The formal restaurant, Il Palagio, is transformed into a multi-station brunch by noted chef Vito Mollica, who makes killer poached eggs with Florentine-style spinach. The atmosphere is very casual (local families linger, too) and the food is delicious and all locally sourced (berries are the size of golf balls). Make this your only meal of the day.
Check in: Book a Room

The Alain Ducasse classic. Photo courtesy of Le Meurice.

Hôtel Le Meurice

Where: Paris, France
What's to love: The Michelin-starred Alain Ducasse restaurant, with its stylish Phillipe Starck update, is a magical place to kick off a day in the City of Light. The American breakfast is full-on: eggs with a truffle, Kristal caviar or salmon supplement, Ducasse's own hot chocolate, pressed juices by Nubio, and thick, crispy waffles doused in whatever you like. This is old-school luxury.
Check in: Book a Room

The outdoor spread. Photo courtesy of Belmond Villa Sant'Andrea.

Belmond Villa Sant'Andrea

Where: Taormina, Sicily
What's to love: The seaside terrace setting and the comprehensive spread are unmatched. Choose from freshly baked croissants and plum tarts, peach compote, housemade tangerine marmalade, acacia honey from nearby Etna, Parma prosciutto, and the most delicious smoked swordfish. Apricot, green apple, and blueberry juices, sipped overlooking the Bay of Mazzaro, are just sublime.
Check in: Book a Room

The brunch buffet. Photo courtesy of Peninsula Chicago.

The Peninsula Chicago

Where: Chicago, Illinois
What's to love: As a general rule, Peninsula Hotels do breakfast really well, with plenty of Chinese offerings standard. Chicago offers lobster and scallop congee and steamed shrimp dumplings, but with a hefty dose of Midwestern, carb-laden goodness added in. Think fluffy pancakes, chocolate desserts, waffles with berry compote, and serious specialty meats like steak, various kinds of bacon, and pork and chicken sausages.
Check in: Book a Room

The breakfast at Aman Tokyo. Photo by Jeralyn Gerba.

Aman Tokyo

Where: Tokyo, Japan
What's to love: It's hard to describe the sheer delight of sitting down to a proper Japanese breakfast. Each little bento box compartment offers a surprising bite of something gastronomically remarkable — it's like getting permission to open all of the advent calendar doors at once. To be able to enjoy the elevated morning ritual at Aman, itself a jewel box of architectural surprises, while overlooking the Imperial Gardens and Mount Fuji? Arigato. 
Check in: Book a Room

Pilar Ordovas talks more personal taste

The Savile Row gallerist concludes her list of likes with her grandmother’s diamond ring, Michelangelo and a sculpture park in the Swiss Alps

My style icon is my grandmother, Maruja, as she was always timeless and elegant. Cristóbal Balenciaga was her close friend and made many of her clothes, but it wasn’t so much what she wore as how she wore it. I also like the style of strong women like Bella Freud who are very individual and follow what they like rather than fashion trends.

The last meal that truly impressed me was at Saraghina in Brooklyn. I ate the best wood-fired pizza – one with roasted, spicy artichokes – that I’ve had outside Italy, as well as house-made cavatelli with crabmeat and simply roasted branzino. The cosy atmosphere made our group feel like we were at home and being very well looked after. I’m hoping to return for a meal in their beautiful back garden. 435 Halsey Street, New York, NY 11233 (+1718-574 0010; www.saraghinabrooklyn.com).

Pilar Ordovas’ grandmother Maruja on her wedding day | Image: Courtesy Pilar Ordovas

The sight that inspires me is the Mediterranean Sea, as it takes me right back to my childhood. I grew up diving with my father and looking at treasures in the sea – sponges, fish, Roman ruins – before I could swim properly. The sight of the clear water and the feel of it on my skin gives me so much energy and inspiration. My dream is to have a home on the water on the island of Menorca.

An indulgence I would never forgo is good Nespresso coffee. I like the purple Arpeggio capsules as they make very strong coffee that is perfect with frothed milk. I’m going on a health retreat at The Ashram in California soon, and it’s not the exercise regime or the not eating much that worry me, but the not drinking coffee.www.theashram.com. www.nespresso.com.

The best gift I’ve given recently was to my sister Paula. I framed a drawing – a self-portrait she did with her favourite doll, Robin – that she gave me many years ago. I bought a 16th-century gilded frame when I was working at Christie’s and had been waiting for a special occasion to present it to her.

And the best one I’ve received recently was a 1920s platinum and diamond ring given to me by my mother; it once belonged to my grandmother, Carmen. The ring was given to her for her 25th wedding anniversary, so it is very precious to me. I don’t wear very much jewellery, but my mother knew I would love this piece.

Pilar Ordovas’ 1920s platinum and diamond ring that once belonged to her grandmother Carmen | Image: Weston Wells

If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose Las Salesas in Madrid. It’s a very eclectic area and you can find everything, from my favourite flower shop, Margarita Se Llama Mi Amor, where they create the most unusual wildflower arrangements, to Pez and Mott – two stores full of clothes by emerging designers that you are unlikely to see elsewhere. After a bit of shopping, I love Dray Martina for a casual lunch of gazpacho and black cod bacalao, or Mamá Framboise for bocadillos and delicious, artisanal pastries. Dray Martina, Calle Argensola 7 (+3491-081 0056; www.draymartina.com). Mamá Framboise, Calle Fernando VI 23 (+3491-391 4364; www.mamaframboise.com). Margarita Se Llama Mi Amor, Calle Fernando VI 9 (+3491-310 0926; www.margaritasellamamiamor.wordpress.com). Mott, Calle del Barquillo 31 (+3491-308 1280). Pez, Calle de Regueros 15 (+3491-310 6677; www.pez-pez.es).

In my fridge you’ll always find vegetables that are in season, as well as kiwis, avocados and whole milk, which I buy at Daylesford Organic. If we have friends round, then I’ll have cheese on hand – Comté, Brie and organic Cheddar – from Paxton & Whitfield, as well as a rotating selection of wines that are chosen by my husband and voted on by our guests. The fridge is always full of bottled water as well. Daylesford Organic, 44B Pimlico Road, London SW1 (020-7881 8060; www.daylesford.com). Paxton & Whitfield, 93 Jermyn Street, London SW1 (020-7930 0259; www.paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk).

Mamá Framboise in Madrid

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is the Engadin Valley in the eastern Swiss Alps, where I went to visit the sculpture park of the artist Not Vital. I arrived by train from Zurich and couldn’t take my eyes away from the mountainous scenery – it’s rugged, remote and spectacularly beautiful. This place is like an amusement park for grown-ups – one that includes sculptures hanging from trees and a Corten-steel platform that juts out from the mountainside – I had to overcome my fear of heights very quickly. I stayed at the boutique hotel GuardaVal in Scuol, which has an incredible gourmet restaurant with breathtaking views to match. GuardaVal, Vi 383, 7550 Scuol (+4181-861 0909; www.guardaval-scuol.ch). Not Vital Foundation,+4181-860 0837; www.fundaziun.notvital.ch.

And the best souvenir I’ve brought home is a set of simple, carved wooden boxes from our honeymoon in Essaouira, Morocco; they are made of thuya wood and still have a wonderful scent. I also cherish a beautiful eagle feather that a friend found for me on a walk we took together in upstate New York. I’m fascinated by feathers and this one from Mombaccus Mountain takes me right back to that trip.

Stage, 2011, by Not Vital at the Not dal Mot sculpture park, Switzerland | Image: Eric Gregory Powell/Not Vital Studio

The people I rely on for personal wellbeing include Richie Kyle at Third Space, who has been my trainer for years, and the various teachers at Danceworks who take me through the weekly dance classes that I can’t live without. Adrian Parkitny and Maxine Heale at Daniel Hersheson take care of everything to do with my hair. When I am in New York, Niv Zinder is my personal trainer and I love to go to Janet Sartin for refreshing facials. Danceworks, 16 Balderton Street, London W1 (020-7629 6183; www.danceworks.net). Daniel Hersheson, 45 Conduit Street, London W1 (020-7434 1747; www.hershesons.com). Janet Sartin, 875 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10022 (+1212-751 5858; www.sartin.com). Niv Zinder, www.nzfitness.net. Third Space, 67 Brewer Street, London W1 (020-7439 6333; www.thirdspace.london).

My favourite room in my house is my bedroom in my home in Battersea. The glass ceiling is retractable and in summer I go to sleep looking at the moon and stars. The room is very serene, with lots of white surfaces and a low bed with a wooden base that almost touches the floor. It is a very calming space.

The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Michelangelo. I particularly love his later drawings because you can see the artist’s thinking process. There are two images – Studies for the Libyan Sibyl and a small Sketch for a Seated Figure – that are part of the Unfinished show at the Met Breuer and that I would particularly love to own. www.metmuseum.org.

If I didn’t live in London and New York, the city I would live in is Los Angeles. I’ve always wanted to live by the sea and there is such a vibrant arts scene there. The Hammer, The Getty, Moca and The Broad are among my favourite museums and I’d love to be able to spend more time at all of them. The areas surrounding Venice, Santa Monica and Malibu remind me of the Mediterranean in terms of the light and atmosphere, and it was on a trip here several years ago that I discovered my love of running. LA has wonderful hotels, too, and I could happily live at Shutters on the Beach or at the Malibu Beach Inn, as they are directly on the water and have incredible views of the Pacific Ocean. For a classic with a lively scene, Chateau Marmont in Hollywood is hard to beat. It’s the combination of the sea, the sun and the energy that make this city so comfortable to be in. The Broad, 221 South Grand Avenue, Los Angeles (+1213-232 6200; www.thebroad.org). Chateau Marmont, 8221 Sunset Boulevard, Hollywood (+1323-656 1010; www.chateaumarmont.com). The Getty Center, 1200 Getty Center Drive, Los Angeles (+1310-440 7300; www.getty.edu). Hammer Museum, 10899 Wilshire Boulevard, Los Angeles (+1310-443 7000; www.hammer.ucla.edu). Malibu Beach Inn, 22878 Pacific Coast Highway, Malibu (+1310-651 7777; www.malibubeachinn.com). Moca, 250 South Grand Avenue, Los Angeles (+1213-626 6222; www.moca.org). Shutters on the Beach, 1 Pico Boulevard, Santa Monica (+1310-458 0030; www.shuttersonthebeach.com).

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be an Egyptologist. As a child, my father constantly told me stories about Indiana Jones and I later went on to study art history and archaeology because of his tales. I have always been interested in the adventurous aspect of this profession, as well as the elements of astrology, the architecture of the pyramids and the enigmatic pharaohs that were so much a part of ancient cultures.