Touching Down in Cape Town

The question isn't "what should we do?" but "how can we fit it all in?" Foodies, families, party animals — there's something for literally everyone. Contributing editor Christina Ohly breaks down your many, many options.

CAPE TOWN, South Africa – Picture the perfect mix of Los Angeles, San Franciso, and Napa Valley — with a little Bilbao thrown in for good cultural measure — and you've got Cape Town and the Winelands. It's pretty much the perfect destination for a foodie (copious amounts of fresh fish and global cuisine) who also loves nice weather, nature, and great design. The town is still abuzz after its starring role in the 2010 World Cup, and there is so much to learn about, from wildlife (playful penguins at Boulders Beach) to history (tours of the townships, where your eyes will be opened to the way millions of South Africans live in the face of incredible adversity).

Cape Town is a city with style and edge. Partiers will love the Ibiza-like vibe at al fresco beach clubs and restaurants, where the Veuve flows freely and an entire cosmopolitan world whizzes by. At the same time, the trip proved ideal for my children (ages nine and ten), who loved the hiking, cheetah-petting, and the ever-popular hotel swimming pool. The holiday was meaningful (though not in a museum-filled sort of way) and completely relaxing at the same time.

A cable car climbing Table Mountain. Photo: flowcomm / Flickr

WHAT TO DO

As I said, your biggest challenge will be paring down the itinerary. Outdoor enthusiasts go for big surf and challenging hikes, while aesthetes hit the design-centric shops in Cape Quarter. History and wildlife are everywhere. The best part is that you can sample a little of everything, making for days that are always varied.

LOOK
Table Mountain is a must for anyone not prone to vertigo. A seriously steep cable car whisks large groups to the top of a spectacular rock formation which has incredible views of the ocean, football stadiums, and flowering plants.

HIKE
Lion's Head also has spectacular vistas — onto Table Bay, the Atlantic Ocean, and Robben Island in the distance. This is a manageable three-hour hike (with stops), though not ideal for small children due to several steep pitches.

Robben Island Museum. Photo: wirelizard / Flickr

LEARN
Robben Island Museum, the former prison that once held Nelson Mandela, bills itself as a "poignant reminder to the newly democratic South Africa and the price paid to freedom." You'll learn about the Cape's complicated political history and the anti-apartheid activists who were jailed here. How poignant is it? Many tour guides are former prisoners. The island can be accessed by ferry from the Victoria & Albert Waterfront.

LEARN SOME MORE
A tour of a township is one of the few absolute must-dos in Cape Town. These are not designed to be depressing, begging-bowl routes or guilt trips. One of the best private operators, Uthando Tours, works with children's music and dance groups, women's gardening collectives, and prisoner rehabilitation projects that are making life better for all. Truly inspiring.

An African penguin at Boulders Bay Beach. Photo: jorge-11 / Flickr

GET WITH NATURE
Boulders Bay Beach is worth the quick trip from the center of town for the endearing African penguins that frolic freely on pristine beaches. In warmer months, you can swim. Add a stop in quaint Simon's Town for ice cream and local beadwork shops.

SURF
At Surf Shack in nearby Muizenberg, the waves break (relatively) gently, making it a perfect spot to take up the sport. Just beware the ominous shark warning flags that are frequently posted along these coastlines. Shark spotters — often located in central lookout points — add a whole level of excitement to local water sports.

Photo: Courtesy of Babylonstoren

EAT, DRINK, AND BE MERRY
And do so amid mountain ranges, sprawling vineyards, and beautiful Cape Dutch-style homesteads. Stellenbosch, in the heart of wine country, is worth a detour. Don't miss lunch at the Delaire Graff Restaurant. Franschhoek is considered the gourmet capital of South Africa. French Huguenot style abounds, not to mention farm-to-table eating at every turn in this part of the world. Another regional best bet is Babylonstoren, an eight acre garden/stylish inn that is a fresh food paradise. (Read more about this incredible place in another Fathom postcard.) 

Photo: Courtesy of Nap Living

SHOP

Cape Town is an epicenter of great design, artisinal craftwork, and homemade foods of all kinds. The Bo Kaap and Cape Quarter areas are bursting with boutiques that cater to an aesthetically-minded crowd. Nap Living is a Zen sanctuary that sells homewares like bath salts to delectable fudge. Find African-made clothing at Merchants on Long. Stock up on baskets, beadwork, and ceramics at African Nova and Monkey Biz. Head to the hip Woodstock area for an exquisite selection of art, antique, and decorative objects at O.live (8 Kloof St; +27-21-426-5773).

Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden. Photo: dkeats / Flickr

WITH THE KIDS

While virtually everything is casual and kid-friendly in Cape Town, there are a few spots that are not to be missed, especially when the family is in tow.

HANDS-ON FUN
Children of all ages will go crazy for the Cheetah and Raptor Centre at Spier, where they can learn about these magnificent cats and even pet the more docile ones. At The Eagle Encounters, a bird of prey rehabilitation, education, and conservation program, children can feel raptors alight on their arms (best for kids older than seven) and watch dancing barn owls sway to local tunes. Bonus: Spier is a world-class wine with a casual restaurant, Eight, that serves delicious food.

GO GREEN
Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden, regarded as one of the most beautiful in the world, is the perfect place to let children run free amidst 7,000 different species of flora. While the gardens are lush year-round, the best time to visit for maximum plants in flower is in spring and early summer (August-November).

Photo: Courtesy of Cape Grace Hotel

WHERE TO STAY

Cape Town is a city that is easily explored on foot, so a central location is key. There are several good bets for families, as well as smaller, stylish places that are perfect for couples or solo travelers.

Cape Grace Hotel
Set on a private quay on the bustling Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, the hotel has an ideal mix of top-notch service, rooms that look across the harbor in all directions, and the all-important swimming pool (especially during the warmer summer months). It is newer in feel, and the amenities — kitchenettes, great laundry service, massive terrace — make for a successful, smooth stay.

The Mount Nelson Hotel
The hotel remains old-school, with 209 rooms overlooking Table Mountain, lush gardens, or the hotel pool. Restored garden cottage suites work well for couples seeking a hidden retreat; superior one-bedroom suites are perfect for families. Nine acres of gardens and proximity to Two Oceans Aquarium make the hotel great for kids.

The Cape Heritage Hotel
There's a wonderful mix of South African history throughout the recently-renovated rooms, along with enormous, high-ceilinged suites, state-of-the-art bathrooms, and a sweet trellised courtyard. The hotel is all about social responsibility: They participate in mentoring programs for at-risk kids and support local producers and craftspeople.

Cape Cadogan
A tiny gem of a boutique hotel that perfectly mixes history with contemporary, chic accents. This place is very high-touch, almost like staying in a tasteful friend's home.

One & Only Cape Town
Centrally located and probably the slickest game town with excellent dining options (Nobu and Maze restaurants) and incredible spa offerings (Elevate massages, yoga classes).

Photo: Courtesy of Harbour House

WHERE TO EAT

You just can't go wrong. From delicious sushi and Italian specialties to local Cape cuisine, the emphasis is on fresh ingredients and plates that please both the palate and the eye. You'll find universal favorites almost everwhere: the ubiquitous Caesar salad, California rolls, fish and chips, thin crust pizzas — all slightly reimagined and all delicious — as well as Dutch and Afrikaans-inspired dishes.

Harbour House
Their newest outpost is located directly on the Victoria & Alfred waterfront, and an outdoor table is a great spot for watching boats and buskers. Best described as a modern fusion, the menu ranges from light pastas and maki rolls for kids to freshly grilled Kingklip, a local fish delicacy.

Live Bait
A casual open-air bistro on a pier in quaint Kalk Bay, overlooking the water and the basking seals below. The lunch menu is perfect for a light bite: catches of the day, prawn cocktail, inventive signature salads, and freshly shucked oysters. As with most restaurants in South Africa, there really is something for everyone.

The Grand Café & Beach
Just a five-minute walk from town on Granger Bay, this is the place to people-wach (seriously leggy blondes in strappy sandals) and enjoy a varied menu of seafood, wood-fired pizzas, and a dessert sampler that I'm still recovering from (indigenous fruits, popsicles, chocolates). The place feels a bit like Ibiza. Kids can frolic with an enormous disco ball in the sand. Good times.

The Bunglaow. Photo: Christina Ohly

The Bungalow
Located in scenic Clifton, just a few miles outside of town, the relative newcomer is exactly what traevlers from wintry, dark clime seek: a sprawling outdoor deck overlooking the sea, an incredibly cheerful wait staff, and a little techno/house overlay in the background. It's a restaurant by evening, but turns into a full-on club in the wee hours. Go for the top-knotch burgers with guacamole and brie, vanilla-smoked butterfish, and the view.

Babylonstoren
If I had my way, Babylonstoren would serve me my last meal on earth. Set in the Winelands, the innovative farm/restaurant/small inn is a perfect mix of fresh produce, imaginative cuisine, and tasteful minimalist out-buildings that meld seamlessly into the landscape. Stroll the expansive gardens before drinking freshly squeezed juices, delving into salads of all tastes and colors — red (slow-roasted tomato, crisp wild rice, pomegranate), yellow (spekboom, melon, sweetcorn), and green (spinach chiffonade, minted zucchini ribbons) — not to mention the most succulent, locally farmed lamb cutlets that will ever pass your lips. I am still in awe of this place, and I'm pretty sure Alice Waters would be, too. Miraculously, it's remarkably inexpensive, and they cater to kids (a French fry is a French fry, organic or not).

95 Keeron
Delicious tuna tartare, carpaccios of beef and line fish, and grilled ostrich filet are all on the menu at the minimalist, Milanese favorite. The brick-and-wood interior with warm, natural lighting, it´s a vibrant (though relaxing) spot with a bit of buzz.

Bistro Sixteen82
A glass-and-light-filled, Zen oasis at Steenberg Vineyards in Constantia Valley with views of False Bay in the distance. Savor plum tomato gazpacho, summer vegetable capellini, locally cured meats, and a killer carrot cake "composition" for dessert. The kids menu is so good that parents will happily devour any/all of it.

The Roundhouse
A former hunting lodge overlooking beautiful Camps Bay where they serve a feast of tapas and local specialties like fallow deer, cob, and guinea fowl sausage. The cuisine is refined South African with modern European twists, and the atmosphere is laid back enough to keep from feeling oppressive. Oenophiles will love this one for its extensive cellar and unique pairings.

Other Good Bets
Il Leone Mastrantonio for great Italian.
Greenhouse at Cellars for imaginative tasting menus in an intimate setting.
Café Paradiso for kids' pizza-making programs.
Test Kitchen for creative takes on traditional Cape cuisine.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

When To Go
Cape Town enjoys a sunny, mild climate year-round, but it is at its very best between November and March, when the days are long and dry.

How To Get There
South African Airways and British Airways both offer nightly non-stop flights direct to Cape Town International Airport (CPT), and South African Airways also has flights from New York to Johannesberg with connections to Cape Town on local carriers.

Great Guides and Planners
India Baird (+27-0-82-734-4569): An American civil rights lawyer, foodie, and outdoorswoman who gave us lots of local color and insider knowledge.
Lisa Lindbald Travel Design: Based in New York with a knack for arranging the best tours, operators, and in-country flights.
Ilios Tours: For Table Mountain tours, transfers, and more specifics.

Julien Pruvost’s perfect weekend in Paris

The celebrated “nose” and creative director of Cire Trudon has invigorated France’s oldest luxury candlemaker, introducing “genderless” perfumes and taking its power to evoke time and place into adventurous new territory

Julien Pruvost by the Seine | Image: Thomas Chene

“My weekends are hyperactive – with or without our four kids –and Saturdays always involve sport, so I start the day in training gear. Mornings are for errands. I bike to the Left Bank to stock up on fresh fruit and veg at the Maubert outdoor market. I like supporting organic flower producers, so I buy bundles of peonies – the lush, blood-red ones from southeast France that my wife Stéphanie loves.

I rarely indulge in sugar and carbs, but the croissants from La Maison d’Isabelle, supposedly the best in Paris, are worth it. Then I’ll go to CrossFit to work out or do some yoga. Another passion is rock climbing, so I like to take the kids, who range in age from nine to 14, to MurMur in Pantin, where we’ll climb using ropes.

For lunch, we’ll head to La Chaise au Plafond in the Marais. The owner, Xavier Denamur, is a food militant in the best way: he is pro-local and pro-organic and all his food is from the best sources. His beef tartare and pommes frites are excellent, as are the goat’s cheese salad and tarte Tatin. After lunch, I’ll visit the Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville nearby: it has the ultimate hardware store in the basement, where I find little gadgets for the house. Then we might go to the movies, perhaps at the Bibliothèque François-Mitterrand in the 13th arrondissement, which also has a wonderful exhibition space.

I am a big snacker, which means that by mid-afternoon I am ready for a galette from my favourite spot, a crêperie called Breizh on the Rue Vielle du Temple. I always order a salty galette made with buckwheat, spinach and eggs. If I have guests in town, I might take them to Méert, a family-owned chocolate shop from Lille that sells the most delicious little buttercream-filled waffles – ludicrous for your health but so charming.

If we eat out, it’s at the Grand Cœur for fennel and orange salads and simple fish with no fussy sauces, or at Il Quadrifoglio, where they make a superb gluten-free pizza topped with organic tomatoes and cheese. If there’s a concert on at the Philharmonie – in a Jean Nouvel building at the edge of the city – it’s always worth the trip. While we don’t go out for drinks too often, a special Saturday night involves the bar at the Hôtel de Crillon, which attracts a young, eclectic, local crowd.

On Sunday, Stéphanie and I will often cycle to the Gare de Lyon, put our bikes on the train and go to Fontainebleau for a scenic tour – without an itinerary. We like to get lost. Or we’ll park our bikes and do some climbing before returning home to oversee the kids’ homework. Later we’ll stroll along the Seine, from the Tuileries to the Bastille, for some people-watching and an ice cream. Then we might visit an exhibition. The Museum of Hunting and Nature is a hidden gem, and while I don’t support hunting, it has an incredible mix of contemporary art, historic objects, tapestries and sculptures. It’s poetic – like travel for the mind.

There is a saying in France that means “Sunday evenings are gloomy”, and Stéphanie and I do our best to fight this feeling. For fun, we might show up at a friend’s house unannounced with a bottle of rosé, or we’ll listen to a podcast such as Nova [Mix] Club or the Joe Rogan Experience. If I’m tired, it means I’ve done everything I wanted, so it’s mission accomplished.”

Roksanda Ilincic’s favourite digital detox destination

The designer heads for the Montenegro countryside of her childhood

“Like a lot of people, I’m too attached to my phone. If I’m in transit or away from my desk, I’m texting and emailing. I have my own company, so people expect 24/7 access; switching is always going to be hard – but I make a real effort to do it, for quality time with my husband and my eight-year-old daughter. I can go a full week without a phone or social media, and do; it just takes an enormous amount of advance preparation. 

The place I go to shut down and reflect is Montenegro. When I am surrounded by beautiful nature and the Adriatic, I don’t want to be in communication – not with work emails, not with Instagram. I am there to be in that moment, with my family. And I want to make sure my daughter has a real sense of her Serbian roots.

Fashion designer Roksanda Ilincic | Image: Getty Images

My parents have a little house in Ada Bojana, in southern Montenegro where the sea merges with the river. It has always been a very, very hippy, rustic part of the country. There’s even a nude beach – it adds to the laidback atmosphere. They bought the land to escape the bustle of city life, and it’s still very untouched. It’s in a dense forest, so is cool and shady. We use it as our base for exploring the surrounding mountain villages, beaches and the many bays. I read; I eat in all of the little local restaurants that I grew up with. But mostly I love to just spend time with my parents; the undivided attention makes them especially happy.

With only my camera, we’ll drive to Skader Lake, which is an ideal spot to rent a boat. There are beautiful lilies that line the shore, and also unusual bird species. The place, the whole experience, is very meditative. 

For friends looking for a detox – digital or otherwise – I often recommend Aman Sveti Stefan, set in a 15th-century fishing village overlooking the Adriatic Sea. It is very understated and one of Montenegro’s real treasures. From here you can sail or hike in Lovcen National Park. It’s the perfect place to detach and decompress. 

Many of the towns in Montenegro are high in the mountains, where the soil is better for farming. I visited a remote village last summer – it was a steep 45-minute walk up, and totally off the grid – and met a wonderful granny who still lives there despite the village being almost abandoned. She offered us coffee at the end of our hike, a traditional welcome in this country; and I loved hearing her stories. I didn’t have a phone with me, so I was totally focused on the moment – really able to absorb the setting and the being back to basics with zero distractions.

I’ve had to teach myself to unplug over the years. Like anyone running their own business, I am reliant on the people I hire, and it has taken a lot of practice to convince myself things won’t fall apart when I’m away and offline. Returning to the office is a different story; there is never an easing back in, it’s full-on back to work. But I feel refreshed and ready for it. And usually I don’t feel like I’ve missed anything.”

Sease: Italian yachtwear with high-fashion heritage ahoy

This Milan destination store harbours stylish, high-tech sailing kit that’s perfectly suited for both the regatta circuit and the streets of Mayfair

Its name is a portmanteau of “sea” and “ease” – a neat way to sum up this Milanese boutique’s stylish own-brand sailing gear, linked to one of the most illustrious names in Italian textiles – that of Loro Piana. The famed fabric house was founded in 1924 by Pietro Loro Piana; two years ago his nephew’s grandsons, brothers Franco and Giacomo, struck out on their own to create Sease. “Our clothing is for people who spend their free time in nature,” says Franco. “They wear our designs on the water or off-piste – and return to the city and wear them on the back of a scooter.”

All the clothing at Sease is produced with sustainability in mind | Image: Valentina Sommariva

Leveraging their fashion heritage alongside an inherited love of boats (their father, Loro Piana deputy chairman Pier Luigi, hosts – and often races in – the annual Loro Piana Superyacht Regatta in Sardinia), the duo have created what Franco calls a “360-degree lifestyle brand”. It’s a combination of performance kit and exquisitely made leisurewear that appeals to serious sailors – Dario Noseda, who crossed the Atlantic solo in his 7m Starboat, and Luca Bassani, founder of Wally Yachts, are both ardent fans – as well as bankers and architects “who are demanding about quality and design detail”. They come to the refined Brera district shop for signature pieces such as the tailored High Pressure spray top (€895) and the Upwind windbreaker (€1,095), which, in rich shades of navy and brick red, are among Sease’s most functional, fashionable makes.

The fabrics are, of course, key, and hew to the traditional. “Everything is made in Italy and we use mostly natural fibres,” says Franco. “They aren’t as hardcore as techno-nylon fabrics, but sometimes our garments outperform the sports brands.” Linen shorts (€450), for instance, are reinforced with Kevlar for maximum durability, polyester is often recycled and the Sunrise fabric combines wool with bio-based nylon – “treated with an innovative hydrophilic membrane that is resistant to water and wind”, Franco explains, and used on the smart hooded George jacket (€1,350). Sustainability isn’t an afterthought at Sease, says Giacomo: “We love the outdoors – our business is built around the mountains and the sea – and we’re committed to a low-impact, environmentally sensitive supply chain.” 

Everything is showcased with aplomb in a two-storey, nautically inspired space, where the teak, carbon and canvas finishes synonymous the world over with boating abound. At every turn the Sease mantra of “elegance with functionality” is evident, from the tables of T-shirts (€130) and reversible cashmere jumpers (€750), all in a tasteful, subdued colour palette, to the racks of wool/cashmere Skipper sweatshirts (€550) and denim piqué polo shirts (€195). There are accessories, too, including sunglasses (€450) from LGR and solar-powered backpacks (€495), while a DJ booth and the odd Frescobol Carioca wooden skateboard (€980) add to the modern, masculine vibe of this shop “where you’re encouraged to hang out”.

The Gilded Age Fantasy Is Alive and Thriving at Blantyre

Special Covid-19 travel considerations: The hotel is following all Covid-19 guidelines for safety and cleanliness, and is open to guests from Wednesday though Saturday night. Cafe Boulud at Blantyre is serving dinner from Wednesday through Sunday and brunch on weekends. Breakfasts are all in-room; lunches are boxed and served poolside or picnic-style on the grounds. Pianist Karèn Tchougourian is not performing this summer. As for area attractions, Tanglewood took its music program online this summer, and while the museums are reopening, it's a smart idea to call ahead before you venture out.

Blantyre
Lenox, Massachusetts
Opulent, $$$$ (from $645)

At the turn of the 20th century, when the well-heeled needed a place to rest their heads as they shuttled between seasons in New York, Palm Beach, and Newport, they settled on a wooded area of the Berkshires where the spring and fall temperatures were just right. (You know how the well-heeled are...)

Today, only a dozen of these Gilded Age "cottages" remain, including Blantyre, a country resort and estate just outside Lenox, Massachusetts, which is now under new ownership. You're welcome to come for a visit and pretend that time is standing gloriously still.

I spent a weekend here in June with my husband and friends, imagining this beautiful Tudor House, with its perfectly appointed decor — crystal carafes set for wine, elaborate chandeliers, and overstuffed sofas — was all mine. I totally indulged my fantasy of living in an Edith Wharton novel.

The Main Hall.

The Terrace.

Days began with long breakfasts on the Terrace overlooking the gardens and surrounding countryside; afternoons were whiled away reading, sunbathing, and swimming in the pool; dinner was a tasting menu in the Conservatory. I had a terrific facial at the Blantryre spa. We took a lazy trip into Lenox to stroll around town. On a tour of the estate, in-house historian David Pupo regaled me with stories of former owners (including filmmaker D.W. Griffith) and the antics the house has seen. With more time we would have gone to a concert under the stars at Tanglewood: It's another reason to come back.

After dinner came my favorite part of the day, sitting in the Music Room, listening to Karèn Tchougourian, the long-haired Vampire Lestat-looking pianist, playing across the room as I help myself to glass after glass of the port left out for guests to help themselves. (I'm told he is an empath who can intuit what you want to hear. I'm ready to call bullshit when he starts playing the Cole Porter tune I had just been thinking. I do my best not to start singing along, but I can't help myself. I blame the port.)

About that new owner: Linda Law is a San Francisco-based real estate developer who first saw Blantyre when she was a graduate student in Boston. One day, she thought to herself, I will own this place. If you see her around the house, stop for a chat. She's lively and lovely, and under her care, Blantyre's illustrious past will continue into a bright future.

Book It

Rates change seasonally and start at $645. Click here for reservations. Or get in touch with the Fathom Travel Concierge and we can plan your trip for you.

The Music Room.

A rear view of the Manor House.

Checking In

Location
Blantyre is located on a beautiful, wooded 110-acre estate in the part of the Berkshires Mountains that's all green rolling hills and genteel countryside. The cute town of Lenox is an easy ten-minute drive away.

Hotel Style
Gilded Age glory. This is the place to unleash your inner robber baron and pretend you've earned a spot on Mrs. Astor's list of 400.

This Place Is Perfect For
Couples, especially from the northeast, who want a romantic getaway for a few days.

But Not So Perfect For
Families. This is an adults-only operation. No children under 16 are allowed.

The Bistro.

The Conservatory.

The Wine Cellar.

What’s on Site
The ground floor of the main building, the Tudor-style Manor House, has the opulent lobby, outdoor Terrace, Music Room, Bistro, and Conservatory restaurant. The second floor has eight bedrooms; the basement is home to a massive wine cellar with more than 7,000 bottles, which is available for special events. (Once upon a time, the basement was also home to a speakeasy and a nightclub. If those brick-lined walls could talk...) Books — shelves and stacks of them — are everywhere, lining the upstairs hallways and neatly arranged in the Music Room. The pool and spa are located a leisurely walk or bike ride slightly downhill, past the Carriage House and Cottages. Also on the property are a tennis court, a croquet pitch, and Tesla charging station. Look for the statue of the bear in the woods on the drive up from the main entrance. It's really too cute.

Food + Drink
Food is very important to Blantyre's DNA: The hotel was the first Relais & Château property in North America. New for summer 2020 is Cafe Boulud at Blantyre, which will be serving a $78 prix-fixe dinner and two- or three-course prix fixe weekend brunch in the gorgeous Conservatory from Wednesday through Sunday until mid-October. Chef Daniel Boulud and his team have crafted a local, seasonal menu with a French accent: garlic roasted chicken with summer bean fricassee; a Frenchie Burger with confit pork belly, Morbier cheese, and tomato-onion jam; and heirloom tomato salad with basil-sunflower pesto. Breakfasts will be delivered in-room; lunch will be served poolside or picnic-style throughout the property. The bar attached to the Conservatory, deemed The Most Beautifully Designed Bar in Massachusetts by Architectural Digest, serves Gilded Age-inspired cocktails.

The Laurel Suite.

The Blue Room.

The Crimson Suite.

Cottage by the Path.

The Loft Suite in the Carriage House.

A Loft Suite in the Carriage House.

Number of Rooms
24 rooms in all. The eight in the Manor House are decorated in classic, Gilded Age style, in keeping with the decor on the ground floor: four-poster beds, period paintings, patterned textiles in the curtains and fluffy pillows. The rooms in the Carriage House are more contemporary. The stand-alone Cottages are primarily traditional in style and a great option for families.

Standout Detail
The ground floor of the Manor House, and especially the Music Room. And if you're curious, and you should be, see if you can get an estate tour from David Pupo, the director of membership and concierge services who does double duty as the in-house historian. He's been coming to the estate since he was a local kid swimming in the pool.

The pool and spa.

Outside Riverview cottage.

The entrance.

Checking Out

What to Do Nearby
The nearby town of Lenox is cute and preppy, as expected for this part of the world, with everything concentrated into a few walkable blocs: a great local bookstore, The Bookstore and Get Lit Wine Bar, a bar with an outdoor patio (The Olde Heritage Tavern), and a tapas restaurant (Brava). The clothes and housewares in most of the shops were nothing to get excited about, with two extremely stylish exceptions: Design Menagerie and MacKimmie Co.

The surrounding Berkshires are rich with cultural offerings. Tanglewood, the summer home of the Boston Symphony Orchestra, has an extensive and accessible program through August (translation: tickets are easy to get); the new Tanglewood Learning Institute offers year-round programming of lectures, films, and performances. Also nearby: MASS MoCA, The Clark, Jacob's Pillow, and the Norman Rockwell Museum. I've saved the best for last: The Mount, Edith Wharton's former house and gardens, which is a few miles down the road.

Plan Your Trip

How to Get There: Albany International Airport is one hour away; Boston's Logan Airport is just over two hours away.

Getting Around: You'll want a car to explore the area. The surroundings make for a really lovely drive.

The Aesthete: Christine Nagel talks personal taste

The creator of scents for Guerlain, Jo Malone and Armani is the first female head perfumer at Hermès

My personal style signifier is a Slim d’Hermès watch that is the perfect expression of who I am. It is a big masculine watch in silver, and I alternate between brown and black leather straps. I love the simplicity of this piece. €5,650; hermes.com.

Nagel’s Slim d’Hermès watch, €5,650 | Image: Emmanuel Fradin

The last thing I bought and loved was a pair of traditional Venetian slippers in midnight-blue velvet. They are chic and, more importantly, are completely comfortable and can be worn with everything from jeans to more tailored pants. Dittura Massimo slippers, from €35; ditturamassimo.it. 

And the things I’m eyeing next are Pierre de Ronsard rose bushes and a trellis for the garden at my country home in Calvados. These old-fashioned pink and white climbing roses bloom well into the autumn.

Pierre de Ronsard roses

If I didn’t live in Paris, I would live in Normandy, near Deauville and Trouville. It’s the sea that I can’t live without, but the surrounding countryside is gorgeous too. I love the little markets, especially the fish market in Trouville, and this part of the world just feels very small and separate. L’Etoile des Mers is one of the best places for fresh, inventive lunches and the proprietress has a big personality that adds to the fun. For an excellent selection of clothing – just like Paris's Leclaireur but unknown – I love the Anne boutique. Everything it carries – especially designs by Laurence Bras – suits me perfectly, so there’s almost no need to shop in the city. Anne, 26 Rue Gambetta, 14800 Deauville (anne-deauville.fr). L’Etoile des Mers, 74 Rue Gambetta, 14800 Deauville (+332-1463 1018).

Deauville harbour

An object I would never part with is a reproduction of Rodin’s hand called Main dite de “Pianiste” . I bought this little sculpture 25 years ago and I think it’s symbolic of craftsmanship and creativity. I’m part Italian and tend to talk with my hands, so this piece is very special to me. 

Nagel’s reproduction of Main dite de “Pianiste” by Rodin | Image: Emmanuel Fradin

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is the Garden of Eden on the island of Giudecca in Venice. This secret garden, which is closed to the public, was planted by an Englishman in the late 1800s, and it’s still full of jasmine, orange blossom, magnolia, rose – all mixed with the salty Venetian air. It is such a simple, beautiful place and I had an immediate emotional response to it – so much so that I created a fragrance, Un Jardin sur la Lagune, that reflects its blooms throughout the seasons. Hermès Un Jardin sur la Lagune, £89 for 100ml EDT; hermes.com.

Vegetable tartare at L’Arpège in Paris | Image: Arpège

A recent “find” is the new Eataly in Le Marais. This Italian grocery concept store is very new to Paris, and I love its range of diverse yet simple products. In addition to buying delicious cheeses and pastas, it’s fun to just people-watch here. My mother is Italian, so I’m nostalgic for really good Italian ingredients. 37 Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 75004 Paris (eataly.net). 

The last meal that truly impressed me was at Alain Passard's Arpège. He creates vegetable dishes using produce from his organic gardens in incredibly inventive ways. I’m always surprised – last time it was by the sugary tomatoes, a vegetarian tartare and truffles that were in season. Passard always intrigues me with dishes that are not only good for the tastebuds but for the nose as well. 84 Rue de Varenne, 75007 Paris (alain-passard.com). 

My favourite website is Husqvarna, a site that is all about my lawnmower, a current obsession. I also read The Business of Fashion, Le Monde, Le Figaro and The Washington Post for the news of the day. businessoffashion.com. husqvarna.com. lefigaro.fr. lemonde.fr. washingtonpost.com.

Cutter Brooks: a charming lifestyle shop in rural England

An eclectic boutique lined with New York-cool fashion finds and artisanal homewares is putting a bucolic Cotswolds village on the style map

One look at the historic 17th-century building in bucolic Stow-on-the-Wold and Amanda Cutter Brooks was sold. “It seemed like a complete money pit, but I loved it,” says the former fashion director of Barneys New York, who lives with her artist husband and two children on nearby Fairgreen Farm. “It took a year to bring the space back to its original form.” The self-described American Anglophile has paired the weathered-oak beams with soft-pink walls to lend it a “feminine feel, but not too girly”. 

Traditional basketry, £100-£300, by Jenny Crisp | Image: Sam Pelly

Since May last year, Cutter Brooks’ eponymous eclectic boutique has enticed a mix of locals, weekenders from Soho Farmhouse and tourists from further afield – primarily Asians and Americans – with its curated clothing and housewares. “I embrace the English countryside style and craftsmanship,” says Cutter Brooks, highlighting the delicate fabric flowers (£100-£350) made exclusively for the shop by her neighbour Silka Rittson-Thomas and the traditional basketry (£100-£300) by Jenny Crisp, who has been growing and weaving her own willow in Herefordshire for over 30 years. “But I also incorporate things from my travels,” she adds, noting a selection of decorative items that includes Indian hand-block-printed napkins (£40 for six) and sisal placemats (£25 each), made by a group of women in Swaziland, as well as découpage trays (£124) by fellow American John Derian – “an old friend whose work somehow feels very English, and is a huge seller for us”. 

There’s a strong New York component to Cutter Brooks’ fashion buys, too, with the flowing designs by Ulla Johnson (tiered Claribel dress, £415) and LoveShackFancy (embroidered cotton dress, £520) offset by Khaite’s more tailored pieces (tweedy walking shorts, £620) – and all bought in very limited quantities. “My customers appreciate I stock things you won’t find easily elsewhere,” says Cutter Brooks, whose closer-to-home buys range from The Tweed Project – “two Irish girls from Galway I discovered on Instagram” creating summery linen petticoat dresses (£380) and cropped, fringed Aran sweaters (£650) – to Florentine nightwear specialist Loretta Caponi, whose cotton voile “granny nighties” (£350) in pastel shades are “old-school, smocked and very Shakespeare in Love”. Cheerful accessories run from chic canvas tool bags (£495) by Paris label L/Uniform – hand-stamped with monograms by Cutter Brooks – and hair ties (£60-£150) repurposed from Hermès, Liberty and Gucci scarves by Copenhagen’s Line Sander Johansen.

“At first, I think a lot of locals were sceptical about this project,” says Cutter Brooks, whose most precious pieces are the limited edition porcelain blackberry branch sculptures (£2,800-£7,900) by Ukraine-born artist Vladimir Kanevsky. “I’ve certainly made a few mistakes – selling resort fashion in December in the English countryside was pretty much a bust – but I think we’ve found our place now. When people visit and say, ‘It’s so warm and cosy here – and the coffee is great,’ I know I’m doing something right.”

“I could have taken one of every cashmere knit on display”

Streamlined Italian cover-ups for all seasons – from lightweight sweaters to capacious capes

I had arrived early for an interview in Milan’s chic Brera district. Meandering the quiet streets to kill time, a shop window caught my eye with its display of a camel-coloured cape (€1,580). The supremely elegant cover-up was right up my aesthetic alley and drew me in to Lunaria Cashmere, a small boutique that specialises in fine knits for all seasons, from sweaters to coats to scarves – all wrought in a pleasing palette of muted tones. 

Cashmere smoking jacket, €1,199; also comes in six other colourways

These are designs that are modern yet timeless; streamlined and beautifully made in yarn from the highlands of Asia (including Mongolia, China and Afghanistan). If money were no object, I would have taken one of everything on display, such as a slightly cropped smoking jacket (€1,199) in the richest shade of midnight blue, and a summer-weight slate-grey turtleneck (€474). What I did eventually walk away with, however, was the dove-grey reversible-collar Puff coat (€1,690), which I have worn almost daily for the past two months. It is, in fact, part-belted, wraparound sweater/part jacket and pairs well with everything from casual jeans to smart black slacks, providing just the right amount of warmth on a chilly summer evening – but also has lots of layering potential come autumn. 

Cashmere Puff coat, €1,690; also available in seven other colourways

In the end, it was my friend who bought one of the covetable capes, which come in taupe or navy as well as camel. And if I had been feeling more generous – or had more space in my suitcase – I might have bought my husband a smart cable-knit crewneck sweater (€575) or Lunaria’s dressy take on a cargo shirt (€1,249). The range is also all available to buy online.

Colourfully customised Canadian canoes and paddles

Norquay adds vibrant graphic paintwork to handbuilt craft 

“The canoe is my canvas,” says Canadian designer Natasha Wittke, whose Toronto-based brand, Norquay, creates unique collectable pieces of functional art for the home or on the water. The colourful Kevlar Prospector 15 canoes (from C$5,499, about £3,240) customised by her team are a collaboration with Quebec boat builders Abitibi & Co, whose versatile classic hull shape is handmade with wood gunnels, wood seats and a deep dish yoke. Next comes a lick of durable resin-based paint, according to limited edition designs or bespoke requests. “Most clients come to me for a graphic sensibility,” says the former art director, whose inspiration comes from nature and textiles, as well as First Nations art. 

The Kevlar canoe is handmade with wood gunnels, wood seats and a deep dish yoke

“I love the design process – playing with colour, composition and symmetry,” says Wittke, who launched Norquay in 2013 with a line of bold, painted paddles (from about £227). “I like to think my creations will become heritage pieces to be passed down from generation to generation.” One recent commission was for a mini fleet of canoes with matching paddles for a family; individual colourways and patterns were used for each and names were also incorporated. Depending on how busy Wittke is, canoes and matching paddles typically take between eight and 10 weeks to produce. 

Matching customised canoes and paddles take eight to 10 weeks to produce

Norquay’s painted canoe paddles are priced from about £227

So beautiful are the finished products that many customers hang them on their walls – be it a country cabin or an urban flat – though for keen canoeist Wittke, who named her business “after a tiny island, nested in the cool waters of Lake Huron”, these are primarily creations to be used outdoors. The paddles, hand-carved in cherry wood from Ontario’s Haliburton Forest, come in both wall-art and water-ready versions. “It is not recommended to use them for backcountry canoe-tripping,” adds Wittke, “but they are great for deep-water touring around the lake.” The canoes, meanwhile, are stable yet light enough to be manoeuvrable, and can be paddled in tandem or solo – perfect for plying the waters in high style this summer.

Sonia Cheng’s dining boltholes

The CEO of Rosewood Hotel Group believes that informality is key to making deals, from meeting over pineapple buns in Hong Kong to tacos at Annabel’s

“I find that the formality of the boardroom makes it a less conducive place for establishing trust than outside the office in a relaxed, social atmosphere, where people can see how we really work and learn a bit about our values. Rosewood is continually evolving its hospitality concept, and being out in restaurants and hotels is vital to what we do. 

If I am at home in Hong Kong, I focus on breakfast and lunch meetings, as I have four young children and I like to be at home in the evenings to put them to bed. When I travel, however, I pack my schedule with meetings over every meal to make maximum use of my time away. With the opening of our flagship hotel in Hong Kong this spring, and launches in Bangkok, Yangon and Guangzhou this year, much of my time of late has been spent on the road in Asia. Europe is another important area of focus for us, and the London project at Grosvenor Square often brings me to that city to meet partners and investors.

In general, I prefer a casual setting, particularly when it comes to breakfast. In Central Hong Kong that means milk tea and pineapple buns with butter from Kam Wah Café, or a healthy breakfast – maybe avocado toast with great coffee – at Classified, for its laidback atmosphere. In London, in addition to the Mirror Room restaurant at our property in Holborn, my breakfast go-tos are The Modern Pantry in Clerkenwell and Daylesford in Marylebone because they have an authentic feel and serve excellent green juices and B Renewed Smoothies, respectively. 

When I am hosting real-estate developers for dinners in Hong Kong, my favourite place is Duddell’s, where the Michelin-starred Cantonese cuisine – especially the dim sum – served in a festive atmosphere sets everyone at ease. In London, I like the members’ club ecosystem and will often entertain over dinners of lamb barbacoa and tacos at Annabel’s in Mayfair. There is a missed opportunity in Hong Kong for the community-driven members’ club concept.

In the lead-up to the launch of our latest Asian properties, I have been doing food R&D whenever – and wherever – possible. Meals in Los Angeles have been particularly important as the food scene is flourishing there right now. I had a recent dinner at Bestia in downtown LA with developer Rick Caruso to discuss our just‑opened Miramar Beach Montecito property – the charred Brussels sprouts and cavatelli alla norcina set the stage for a productive discussion. Some of our greatest inspirations have come from closer to home, however. The roasted pigeon – a classic dish at Stellar House – was one; the scene at The Sports Club another. Hopefully these inspirations will come together in one vibrant place overlooking the harbour – one that pays homage to the Shunde cuisine of my grandfather’s youth.

I do go out for drinks, especially in New York or London. The Ned in London is a good place for the various bar offerings, and if I’m in New York, it is always Bemelman’s Bar at The Carlyle. The old-school atmosphere – often with live music – and classic cocktails are ideal for a drink with colleagues or an investor. In Hong Kong the drinking is never excessive – maybe one or two after dinner. Ping Pong is a lively spot for a great gin and tonic, and one that makes for the perfect end to a productive day.”

The Aesthete: Bill Bensley talks more personal taste

The architect and designer concludes his list of likes with strenuous Thai massage, running with his dogs and the African/Cuban music of Seckou Keita

My style icon is the English/Caribbean artist Kate Spencer. She divides her time between St Kitts and Sicily, but she often comes to Bangkok. I love her wild way of dressing – she even paints her own clothes – and her strong, vivacious spirit.

The last thing I bought and loved was my Jack Russell terrier Frank – named after Frank Sinatra. He is my seventh Jack Russell and he’s just enormous. He’s a real swimmer, whether it is in the rivers outside Bangkok, or in our pool.  

Artist Kate Spencer | Image: Tina Papies/SceneKitts Photography

The best gift I’ve received recently is the AHEAD Asia 2019 Outstanding Contribution Award for Hospitality and Design. It’s a lifetime achievement award and voted on by my peers, so that feels particularly good.

In my fridge you’ll always find fresh fish, chillies and watermelon. We make a spicy Thai fish soup almost daily, so we always have the first two basic ingredients on hand. The watermelon is for breakfast, and no matter how old I get, it always reminds me of childhood summers.

The indulgence I would never forgo is strenuous Thai massage. Our masseuse comes to the house every night to give me a rigorous stretch from limb to limb. It’s kind of like forced yoga, but it keeps me healthy.

The last thing I added to my wardrobe was a pair of denim overalls I found in a local market – I like their utilitarian simplicity. I have an upcoming photo shoot and I am going to do the portrait in front of a giant picture of a forest. I plan to be holding an axe, and the overalls will add to the whole Paul Bunyan effect. 

Shinta Mani Wild nature sanctuary in Cambodia

The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Picasso. I love his early works in particular – in fact, I’ll take all the Blue Period. His work is inspirational and dreamy and it certainly plays into my own painting.

An object I would never part with is hard to imagine as I couldn’t care less about possessions – but I would never part with my husband of 30 years. 

Kitchen Confidential by Anthony Bourdain

My favourite room in my house is the veranda because it is the heart of our home. It’s really the magic sweet spot where the beauty of the flowering gardens outside meets the serene interior. We have a table out there that seats six people and it’s just a lovely space, full of orchids, candles and ferns.

If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose Chiang Mai because it is full of all kinds of wonderful stores that sell Burmese, Indian and Chinese antiques. Golden Triangle is one of my favourite places where I buy hundreds of pieces – desks, tables – at a time, and also De-Siam for furniture, decorative objects, carved marble and lighting. I recently bought 400 Indian wooden moulds at this shop. I’m not sure where these will go; I tend to buy first and think later. Prempracha’s Collection is another excellent resource. De-Siam, 132 Moo 1, Chiang Mai-Hod Road, Hang Dong, Chiang Mai 50230 (+6653-441 254; desiam-antiques.com). Golden Triangle, 82 Moo 1 Chiang Mai-Hod Road, A Hang Dong, Chiang Mai 50230 (+6653-434 700; goldentriangle.co.th). Prempracha’s Collection, 224 M3, Chiang Mai-Sankampang Road, T Tonpao, A Sankampang Chiang Mai 50130 (+6653-338 540; prempracha.com).

One of Bensley’s own paintings | Image: Adam Birkan Photography

The best book I have read in the past year is Kitchen Confidential by the late chef, writer and TV personality Anthony Bourdain. He was a seriously talented person and his behind-the-scenes writing about the world of restaurant kitchens is fascinating.

The best gift I’ve given recently was a piece of land to the Cambodian people. It’s roughly the size of Central Park and is an important conservation project. Called Shinta Mani Wild, it is a private nature sanctuary and we’ve built 15 little tents perched over the water that are rented out to help support our sustainability and anti-poaching efforts. From $1,900 per night (minimum three-night stay); shintamani.com/wild.php.

My failsafe jet lag cure is running – though it must be outside, as sunlight is key. And ideally, three hours of Thai massage to increase my energy flow.

The people I rely on for personal wellbeing are not people, but rather my five dogs. They are the best trainers as they demand a five to 10km run every day around sunset and I take them to the muddy rivers and marshes outside the city. Our cook Tuk, who was my dad’s nurse, also contributes greatly to my overall health. She is our house “mum”.

The last music I downloaded was Senegalese 22 Strings by artist Seckou Keita. This African/Cuban music is hypnotic; sometimes vocal, sometimes with jazz notes. I like Keita’s soothing sounds around the house, especially when I am painting.

The grooming product I’m never without is a generic bar of soap. I literally use it to wash, shampoo, for everything – I don’t groom.

If I weren’t doing what I’m doing, I would be a painter. I just took it up about a year ago and now I am obsessed. It’s much like fishing – I get into a happy, relaxed place when I paint. I love expressing myself through acrylics and watercolours and am particularly focused on large-scale portraiture, which is a difficult subject matter, so I love it the most.

Say Spa-aaaaah! The World’s Best Spa Treatments 2019

In this month’s edition of the Fathom Travel Awards, we’re celebrating all things wellness by shining a spotlight on the treatments and spa rituals that make us feel whole again.

While we'd never pass up a blissfully relaxing massages or a wow-you're-glowing facial (because we always have time for those!), these are services that up the ante on what a spa can do and be. From ancient Turkish traditions to futuristic brain journeys, these innovative offerings (and their striking environments) take spa-going to another level — and may even be the highlight of your trip.

Photo courtesy of Six Senses Spa.

The Swiss Facial That Will Make You Glow

The Alpina Gstaad, Six Senses Spa
Where: Gstaad, Switzerland
What’s to Love: The stunning alpine setting, natural materials and warm wood finishes, and all-natural, largely botanical products make the spa at Six Senses, a hotel company known for its wellness offerings, a Zen oasis in the middle of the Bernes Overland. The Swiss Anti-Aging Jewel Facial (60 minutes, $240) starts with a bamboo peel, followed by a most invigorating massage and the application of a nutrient-rich serum extracted from indigenous plants. This viscous Royal Jelly is applied as a mask, giving the skin hefty doses of vitamins and trace elements that will make you glow. The sound healing treatments using singing bowls, gongs, and crystal tuning forks are relaxing and restorative as well.

Photo courtesy of Royal Mansour.

The Hammam Fit for Royalty

Royal Mansour Marrakech Spa
Where: Marrakesh, Morocco
What’s to Love: Excellent hammam experiences at every price point are a local specialty in Marrakech, where liquid olive oil soup and a kessa massage glove are essential souk souvenirs. But the hammams at Royal Mansour are on another dimension of awesome — as is the entire spa, which is as gorgeous as you'd expect one built for the royal family to be. The Signature Hammam (75 minutes; 1600 MAD / $165) has options evocative of three Moroccan regions: The Atlas Mountains (lavender and holy basil), Taliounie (saffron), and Kalaat M'Gouna (roses). Temps Pour Soi (90 minutes; 2000 MAD / $207) includes a masterful scrub and washing in a jewel-like bathing temple (there's no other word for it), followed by an almond milk shampoo and a 20-minute massage. Oh, you only answer to "sultan" or "sultana" from now on? After this, that's understandable.

Photo courtesy of Nihi Sumba.

The Ultimate Spa Day in the Balinese Jungle

Nihi Sumba
Where: Sumba Island, Indonesia
What’s to Love: Nihioka Spa Safari is unlike anything you will ever experience. After a long walk through jungle, rice paddy fields, and a local village — during which you basically sweat your entire body weight out — you arrive to a magical oasis to find fresh coconuts to sip on and a semi-outdoor shower to rinse off in. Plush robes are waiting, as is breakfast in a cabana overlooking the ocean. Below are two perfect, private white-sand beaches with the bluest water you will ever see. After you eat (they'll whip up anything you'd like), you can go swimming in the ocean or lay by the pool. From there, the spa-ing begins. You can choose a half-day or a full day of unlimited treatments. Yes, unlimited. You can get massaged for hours or mix your own cocktail of body wraps, hair-conditioning, acupressure, facials, and more. It’s totally up to you. After you finish, they will bring you tea and snacks before taking you back to the hotel.

Photo courtesy of Oberoi Hotels & Resorts.

Health and Wellness at the Foothills of the Himalayas

The Oberoi Sukhvilas Spa Resort, New Chandigarh
Where: Chandigarh, India
What’s to Love: The Ayurvedic cleansing ritual Dinacharya (90 minutes, $120) is meant to be practiced daily. The therapist begins by cleansing your eyes with a medicated liniment, your ears with drops of oil, your mouth with an oil-based mouthwash, and your respiratory system with a medicinal smoke. From there, they liberally apply oil to the entire body in long strokes. While it's not meant to be the most relaxing treatment, it's remarkably invigorating. Your skin will feel like silk for days.

Photo courtesy of Babylonstoren.

A Modern Take on an Ancient Turkish Tradition

Babylonstoren
Where: Simondium, South Africa
What’s to Love: Partake in an ancient Turkish cleansing treatment at a garden oasis in the winelands outside Cape Town. Recommended for couples, the Hammam Traditional Soap Treatment (60 minutes, $150) takes place in a private, marble-laden steam room with a heated stone-slab treatment table and gorgeous blue-mosaic-tiled-ceiling. After a vigorous scrub with Turkish gloves, lukewarm water is repeatedly poured over the body, creating a Zen-like state, while the heat and steam relax tired and sore muscles. From there a soapy piece of cloth shaped like a long rectangular balloon is filled with air and used to rub down the entire body. You'll leave feeling squeaky clean with the skin of a newborn baby.

Photo courtesy of SHA Wellness Clinic.

Futuristic Brain Treatments for Mental Clarity

SHA Wellness Clinic
Where: Alacant, Spain
What’s to Love: A few months ago, the luxury resort and spa that looks like it was plucked from the pages of a futuristic William Gibson novel launched a duo of non-invasive brain treatments. Led by the charismatic Dr. Bruno Ribeiro, a neuroscientist and psychologist, the program caters to those looking to tap into optimal brain vitality, productivity, and to accelerate cellular recovery. Brain Photobiomodulation ($225 per session), developed with Harvard University-NASA technology, sends varying infrared light wavelengths to dormant parts of the brain to boost energy, performance, and improve concentration. Meanwhile, Transcranial Current Stimulation ($45 per session), which also has a Harvard pedigree, addresses everything from addiction to depression to migraines — and helps you catch your Zzzzs. Sessions run 45 minutes, an ideal time to talk to Dr. Ribeiro about — no pun intended — what’s on your mind before springing outdoors to soak in the salty Mediterranean air.

Photo courtesy of Hoshinoya Resorts.

Japanese Hospitality That Takes You to New Heights

Hoshinoya Tokyo
Where: Tokyo, Japan
What’s to Love: The indoor/outdoor ryokan-style baths on the top floor of the luxurious hotel are fed by hot springs piped from 1,500 meters below the city streets. Therapies begin with a soak (and, if you like, at night, a view of starry skies), a stretching session, and an oil treatment tailored to each guest’s needs. In typically hospitable Japanese fashion, glasses of ice cold milk, hot teas, and beautiful specialty snacks are provided at the end.
Read More on Fathom: A Stunning Japanese Ryokan in the Heart of Tokyo

Photo courtesy of Burgenstock Resort.

An Out-of-Body Experience Without Any Drugs

Burgenstock Hotels & Resort Alpine Spa
Where: Bürgenstock, Switzerland
What’s to Love: The Bürgenstock Alpine Body by Suzanne Kaufmann (90 minutes, $300) is an immersive combination of a revitalizing peel and a whole body massage designed to stimulate the metabolism and all of those neglected connective tissues. The invigorating head massage alone is worth the hefty price tag for this thoroughly relaxing, holistic – dare we say transcendent? – experience. The combination of Swiss botanical creams, skilled masseuses, and all of that fresh mountain air – complete with clanging cowbells in the distance – leaves you thoroughly limp, in the best possible way.

Photo courtesy of Ojai Valley Inn.

West Coast Energy Boost

Spa Ojai at Ojai Valley Inn
Where: Ojai, California
What’s to Love: Get a big does of hippy-dippy California at the Ojai Valley Inn where it's all about spiritual energy and wild-crafted Kypris skincare products. Named for the East West Ojai Valley, the East West Ritual for Balanced Beauty (100 minutes, $355) is designed to revive energy flow using polarity techniques. The rose quartz facial massage is next level. You'll leave this lengthy, sybaritic session feeling rested with absolutely glowing skin.

Photo courtesy of The Retreat at Blue Lagoon.

An Out-of-This World Massage at an Otherworldly Retreat

The Retreat at Blue Lagoon
Where: Grindavík, Iceland
What’s to Love: Book an in-water massage (from $142) at the spa at this ultra-luxe hotel, and you'll get a portion of Iceland’s famous Blue Lagoon all to yourself. The muscle-melting treatment takes place in a part of the lagoon only accessible to spa guests. You get the same pastel blue, silica-rich, good-for-your-skin geothermal seawater everyone comes to Iceland to experience, just without any of the tourists. After working out your knots, detoxing in the subterranean steam cave, and reflective on the spa’s panoramic terrace (with a rejuvenating skyr smoothie in-hand), you’ll never want to do this iconic Icelandic landmark differently ever again.

Photo courtesy of Amangiri.

Massage to Take Your Breath Away

Amangiri
Where: Canyon Point, Utah
What’s to Love: The desert-view spa is perched on 600 stunning acres of protected land on the Colorado Plateau. The location alone will take your breath away. So will the spa program, which takes cues from traditional healing systems the world over, particularly those of the Navajo. Among the plethora of incredible Zen-inducing offerings (candlelit yoga, floatation therapy, full- or half-day movement journeys), a massage from the knowing hands of masseur David Sanchez is the highlight. (Yes, he's that good.) Massages, which start with sage smudging ceremonies and end with crystal sound baths and use Aman’s all-natural skincare products, can be had individually (60 minutes, $225; 90 minutes, $325) or as a balancing, nourishing, or purifying signature treatment (105 minutes, $400), which kick off with a heavenly mineral-rich foot massage ritual.

Photo courtesy of Tomoko.

Massage to Make You Feel Whole Again

Tomoko
Where: Beverly Hills, California
What’s to Love: The super-minimal spa is considered one of LA’s best kept secrets, a soothing hideaway you might find in Japan. It's totally luxurious, without the glitz. The incredibly indulgent massages (from $200) are at once therapeutic and technical, as if the body workers have intuitive knowledge of where your pain is and how to fix it — with Swedish and Japanese techniques, hot stones, foot soaks, and sake.

A special thank you to Fathom contributors Victoria Cairo, Allison Reiber DiLiegro, Emily Dougherty, Alex Erdman, Darlene Fiske, Mary Holland, Brooke Lavery, Crystal Meers, Nicole Najafi, and Christina Ohly.

More Adventures in Wellness

Was It All Just a Dream? Tales from Heavenly Vair Spa in Puglia
The Hotel Is Great, But You Should See the Spa
Weightlessness, Libra Tables, Stress Assessments, Ionizers: 4 Next-Level Spa Treatments That Might Change Your Life

Jacques Grange’s perfect weekend in Paris

The interior designer’s bold, eclectic style has won over clientele as varied as Francis Ford Coppola, Karl Lagerfeld and, most recently, LVMH’s Cheval Blanc resort in St Barths

“Saturday starts with eggs and bacon at Le Relais Plaza at the Hôtel Plaza Athénée. This old-world hotel is like a home away from home and it’s an important part of my weekend routine.

After breakfast, I’ll walk through the Tuileries and on to the Palais-Royal, where I love the garden and the galleries that surround it. Pierre Passebon’s Galerie du Passage is a treasure trove of 20th-century furnishings and decorative arts, as well as photographs and sculpture. Another stop is By Terry for fragrances. Terry de Gunzburg has created a subtle one I like called Bleu Paradis. If I’m in the mood for clothes shopping, I’ll stop at Victoire Homme just around the corner – great for casual jeans and jackets. For more formalwear, I’ll head straight to Loro Piana for shoes and impeccably tailored shirts. 

After a morning of browsing, I’ll head to Saint-Germain-des-Prés for more art and antiques. It’s technically part of my “work”, but I love it. Galerie Alexandre Biaggi specialises in furniture and decorative arts from the late 1930s and early ’40s and is a must, as is Galerie l’Arc en Seine for 20th-century lighting and furniture by Pierre Chareau and Paul Dupré-Lafon. India Mahdavi is another highlight: fun pieces by a talented architect and designer.

I’ll stop for a late lunch at Brasserie Lipp – a classic spot with authentic food and the perfect Parisian atmosphere. The pot-au-feu here is the ultimate comfort food. It’s ideal for people-watching – I always sit downstairs, never upstairs, as it just doesn’t have the same lively feel.

Next up might be a visit to the Calder-Picasso exhibition at the Picasso Museum, or I might go to see the Oceania show at the Musée du Quai Branly – Jacques Chirac. The Musée Yves Saint Laurent is another wonderful institution – and not because I designed the exhibition spaces! I go for the interesting mix of retrospectives and new programming.

Saturday night is for friends. We will start with a drink in the magnificent garden at Laurent, followed by dinner at Le Duc. It’s so uncontrived – the food is fresh and simple and the room feels like a small, intimate club. I love fish and Le Duc excels at seabass and salmon tartare, followed by grilled red mullet or turbot.

Sunday morning begins much the same as the day before, but perhaps with Greek yoghurt and strong coffee and reading Le Figaro and the Financial Times. I like to walk when I’m in Paris, including all over the Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen flea market, and especially the Paul Bert Serpette antiques market for dealers such as Xavier Chollet, who specialises in 19th-century French and Italian art and furniture, and Olivier d’Ythurbide and Benoît Fauquenot for rare 17th- and 18th-century objets d’art. I can spend hours exploring before having lunch at the Philippe Starck-designed Ma Cocotte. The seabream ceviche and the beef tartare are favourites, but everything is excellent. 

Sunday winds down over dinner with friends and since Le Stresa, my beloved local Italian, is closed that day, I’ll go back to Le Relais Plaza, where my weekend began. They have the best steak tartare in town and I love the art deco ambience. Chances are I will be travelling somewhere the next day, so I’m in bed early, ready for the week ahead.”

Three-Day Weekends from Washington, D.C.

Need some quiet weekend plans away from the action/adventure/machinations of Washington, D.C.? We have a few ideas.

WASHINGTON, D.C. –  Sometimes it can be hard to forget that there's a whole world out there beyond Capitol Hill. But it's true! Pastoral charm, double five-diamond meals, and views of the Blue Ridge Mountains are within reach of the weekend.

Here are a few places to start:

It doesn't get more charming than this. Photo courtesy of The Inn at Little Washington.

SPERRYVILLE, VIRGINIA

If you're in the mood for: scenic hikes and truly stellar meals.

Route to take: The 72-mile drive takes approximately two hours by car. Don't miss the scenic Skyline Drive that winds through the Shenandoah National Park and features waterfalls and starry skies.

Your agenda: Chef Patrick O'Connell at The Inn at Little Washington oversees one of the world's only double five-diamond establishments where chawanmushi (warm, local duck egg “tea cup” custard with ginger-scented Asian tea) and carpaccio of herb-crusted baby lamb loin are the orders of the day. Once in a blissful food coma, repair to one of the historic Relais & Chateaux's sumptuous suites and take in the garden views. 

Avoid the Sunday blues: Check out will be depressing, so stock up at the Inn's Tavern Shop where chef O'Connell has selected exquisite kitchen items, including Laguiole knives and artisanal cheeses.

Ah, the country life. Photo courtesy of Red Fox Inn. 

MIDDLEBURG, VIRGINIA

If you’re in the mood for: a romantic weekend with a backdrop of rolling green hills and grazing horses.

Route to take: Drive a little over an hour on Route 50 east of Washington, D.C.

Your agenda: The charming Red Fox Inn was established in 1728 and has been visited by historical greats like George Washington, John F. Kennedy, and Elizabeth Taylor. Try The Goodstone Inn & Estate Restaurant for farm-to-table French cuisine sourced from the onsite organic herb and vegetable gardens.

Avoid the Sunday blues: With a glass of RdV Vineyards' Lost Mountain cabernet sauvignon at the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. The intimate winery accepts tastings by appointment only, so book in advance. 

Swish! Viceroy Snowmass Delivers Family Fun, Especially on Skis

Fathom contributor Christina Ohly found everything she needed for a family-friendly luxury ski vacation under one roof outside Aspen in Snowmass, Colorado.

Viceroy Snowmass
Snowmass, Colorado
Modern, $$ (from $235)

Snowmass is a great family playground, especially during ski season. There is varied terrain for all ability levels, and the village is quaint. But it was lacking in the luxury hotel sector until Viceroy Snowmass came along and infused a little Scandinavian chalet chic into the area. With its slopeside location, state-of-the-art spa, and varied dining options, it is the place to position yourself if you're looking for a relaxing getaway — particularly with kids in tow — as the ski-in/ski-out location can't be beat. The Viceroy's lower level ski shop makes rentals, lift tickets, and ski instructor meet-ups (all pre-arranged through a concierge) a breeze, and helpful ski valets attend to children's boot buckles and hand warmer needs. The resort feels very high-touch, but in a low-key, LEED-friendly way. When the snow melts, you can head to the slopes for hiking, biking, and other summery outdoor activities.

The lobby at Viceroy Snowmass.

The pool and bar.

Claims to Fame

All 173 spacious rooms — from 375-square-foot studios to sprawling four-bedroom suites, many of which have recently been renovated — are furnished in dark woods, with pullout sofas, lovely throws, and gourmet kitchenettes. Anything larger than a one-bedroom comes with washer-dryers, which not only make light work of wet gear at day's end, but also cuts down on packing needs. (Clearly, a parent was involved designing these stylish yet functional spaces.) The subterranean spa, which can do wonders for unexpected altitude sickness, has treatments and rituals inspired by the Ute, local Native People. But the biggest claim to fame has to be the location. Just above the Assay Hill lift, you have access to 3,000+ acres of perfectly groomed trails and won't have to worry about missing the last lift back to your lodge after the last run, as is often the case with other properties.

What's on Site

The Viceroy is a self-contained unit. If it's a spa weekend you're after, you'll never have to leave. Skiers and nature warriors, however, will delight in a host of offerings that starts with a hearty breakfast buffet of breakfast burritos and blueberry-lemon quinoa pancakes at Toro Kitchen and Lounge, which becomes the hotel's fine dining restaurant by night. After fueling up, your warming ski boots are an elevator ride away. The valet at Four Mountain Sports will help with skis, poles, and replacing the inevitable lost mitten. Ski instructors will meet you right here, which lessens the chance of kid (or parent) meltdowns.

Après-ski offerings are a plus as well: welcoming hot chocolate and s'mores, a sleek outdoor pool, a fitness room for anyone with energy to spare, and an inviting bar all beckon. Friday nights throughout the ski season feature nighttime celebrations at nearby Elk Camp where tubing, snowshoeing, ice skating, and snow biking are all on offer and are easily accessible by nearby gondola. Summer brings outdoor events like bike rides, rodeos, and outdoor concerts.

The bar at Nest Public House.

Toro Kitchen and Lounge.

The Food

Breakfast, the most important meal of any ski day, is delicious, varied, and filling, as are dinners of Colorado rack of lamb at chef Richard Sandoval's Toro. But it was a lunch of grilled shrimp tacos at Nest Public House that won my heart. A new bar extension of Nest means you can eat near the pool and the lift. An easy ski run takes you to Base Camp Bar & Grill, the restaurant next to the hotel's ski shop, where light chopped salads and creative sandwiches are served quickly for the skier who wants to get back on the mountain.

Aspen, seven miles down the road, is a true foodie town. So it's worth leaving Snowmass to explore such culinary gems as Casa Tua, Matsuhisa, and Meat & Cheese, the area's latest and greatest restaurant-cum-charcuterie market.

Rooms with a View

Virtually every Viceroy room has a sweeping view of Roaring Fork Valley and trails, but I highly recommend east-facing rooms overlooking the Assay lift for a family of four. The one-bedroom, sizable suites feature pullout sofas that work for younger kids. Streamlined gas fireplaces throw off serious heat, which lends the separate spaces a cozy feel. For a total house party, four-bedroom apartments include communal living spaces and great views of the surrounding peaks at twilight. Avoid north-facing rooms that look out over the access road to the main village. Not nearly as pretty.

A kid's room at Viceroy Snowmass.

A spacious hotel room kitchen at Viceroy Snowmass.

This Place Is Perfect For

Anyone who likes design-led spaces and close proximity to ski lifts. Viceroy is perfect for families, as rooms are configured for sharing and are often interconnected. The hotel's Very Important Kids program will appeal to the younger set, with movies, games, bowling, and more.

But Not So Perfect For

A quiet couples weekend. Viceroy is kid central, and while they do it in a quiet, casual way, school vacation times are packed with small people.

Book It

Rates vary seasonally and start at $235 per night. Click here for reservations. Or contact the Fathom Concierge and we'll book your trip for you.

Guest room details.

CHECKING OUT

Neighborhood Vibe

Snowmass Base Village just underwent a major renovation. A new ice rink and a five-story indoor climbing wall located in the recently opened Limelight Hotel Snowmass offer more reason than ever to stick around Snowmass, but if you're looking for a change of scene, you're certainly at no loss for options. Aspen Snowmass consists of four mountains, all accessible on one lift ticket: In addition to Snowmass, there's Aspen Mountain in Aspen town, lower-key Aspen Highlands, and xtreme-sports-friendly Buttermilk.

Your dedicated Aspen ski and snowboard instructor will accompany you to any of the mountains, making for a seamless ski experience on many varied terrains.

What to Do Nearby

For a small mountain town, Aspen is packed with cultural offerings — galleries, lectures, museums, events. One of the newest is the Shigeru Ban-designed Aspen Art Museum with its rotating contemporary art exhibits and stunning rooftop café.

Food is another central focus, from the world-class sushi at Matsuhisa and Kenichi, to fine dining at Cache Cache and Casa Tua. For a lighter meal in a casual, buzzy atmosphere, head to Meat & Cheese on East Hopkins Avenue, where abundant cheese boards are accompanied by pickles, preserves, and crackers and porchetta assortments are ideal for sharing. The wood-fired pizzas at Mezzaluna make it a perennial kid favorite, and its location near Aspen Mountain ensure added après-ski entertainment. Top off any hard day outdoors with a finely crafted cocktail at Aspen's newest speakeasy, Bad Harriet, at Hotel Jerome.

Nordic skiers will love the Aspen Cross Country Center for its 25+ miles of trails. Lessons and gear are available through Ute Mountaineer.

Ashcroft Ski Touring is another great bet and offers cross country skiing through an old ghost town, just twelve miles from Aspen.

Keep Exploring Aspen/Snowmass

Fathom's Aspen Guide
What's New in Aspen 2019
Re-Losing My Virginity On The Slopes
Snowmass Is Ski Heaven for the Whole Family

The Aesthete: Dominique Lévy talks personal taste

The art adviser, collector and dealer co-founded the international Lévy Gorvy gallery, which represents the likes of Yves Klein and Frank Stella

Dominique Lévy at home in New York | Image: Weston Wells

My personal style signifier is a piece of jewellery – a wearable sculpture, really – from my grandmother, by the artist César, to whom she was very close. It’s made of family heirlooms – gold and pearls – that were melted down and compressed into an amulet I wear as a necklace. It is the essence of my hero – my grandmother – and a whole life story in one accessory. I wear it to every art fair and opening.

Löffelobjekt by Beate Kuhn | Image: Weston Wells

The last thing I bought and loved was a ceramic piece, Löffelobjekt, by the artist Beate Kuhn. It has beautiful flux and movement and I was lucky to find it as her works are quite rare. Jason Jacques Gallery, 29 East 73rd Street #1, New York, NY 10021 (jasonjacques.com). 

And the thing I’m eyeing next is a thick cashmere sweater bearing the slogan “Meditate” by California-based label The Elder Statesman. I like the story behind this maker and also that it’s in the bold colours of the flag of my birthplace, Switzerland. $1,555; elder-statesman.com.

Elder Statesman cashmere Meditate sweater, $1,555

The last meal that truly impressed me was at Sushi Noz in New York. It’s an eight-seat place with an authentic 19th- century Japanese Hinoki counter, and the entire omakase presentation was just perfection. The cedarwood finishes and subtle lighting set the stage for chef Noz’s memorable yellowtail sashimi and other small, flavoursome plates. 181 East 78th Street, New York, NY 10075 (sushinoz.com).

Sushi Oz, an eight-seat Japanese restaurant in New York

And the best souvenirs I’ve brought home are stones from the beach on Antiparos in Greece. I collect stones wherever I go, but these are in shades of pink and white and subtle green. I keep them in vases in my office as well as in my Hamptons home, and I am constantly adding to and editing my collection.

Stones picked by Lévy from the beach on Antiparos in Greece | Image: Weston Wells

The last thing I added to my wardrobe was an Etro trouser suit in petrol-coloured velvet. My 16-year-old son picked it out, and the bluish colour and wide-leg pants give it a very cool 1970s vibe that’s perfect for a night out. etro.com. 

New York’s La Mercerie, an “eating and shopping” space

A recent “find” is La Mercerie in SoHo in New York – a very special “eating and shopping” environment overseen by a wonderful French chef. The food is delicious and the atmosphere feels like being in someone’s home. After a recent meal I bought a fabulous set of placemats. It all feels like Paris meets Amsterdam, but in New York. 53 Howard Street, New York, NY 10013 (lamerceriecafe.com). 

The best gift I’ve given recently was a 24ct- gold bangle by jeweller Aurora Lopez Mejia to someone special. Her bracelets are very personal, made up of significant numbers and letters, which make her pieces one of a kind and very meaningful. From $18,000; auroralopezmejia.com.

The indulgences I would never forgo are very dark chocolate and Japanese whisky – but not necessarily together! Villars from Switzerland is my chocolate of choice; it’s made without added sugar and I like to snack on it throughout the day. In terms of whisky, I love Hibiki, which combines subtle woody and sweet flavours. Hibiki, £64.95 for 70cl; thewhiskyexchange.com. Villars, about £2.50 for 100g; villars.com.

My favourite room in my house is my dining room. I can be en famille or entertaining 20 and it always feels cosy. The sculptural centrepiece is a table with bronze feet by artist Alma Allen that I commissioned for this room. And a handblown chandelier by glass artist Jeff Zimmerman just makes the whole space work.

Craig Green’s perfect weekend in London

The three-time recipient of the British Fashion Awards’ menswear designer of the year accolade is celebrated for his experimental but accessible aesthetic, and has collaborated with names from Moncler to Ridley Scott

“I live in Colindale, north London, near to where I grew up because that’s where my old friends are. It’s my escape from the frenetic fashion world. It’s just at the edge of the city so it has many parks and a real village feel. Everyone at the pub knows your name, just as they’ve known your family for generations. My local is the Greyhound in Church End, where my dad still goes.

I rise early and start Saturday mornings with a large cup of cold milk infused with coffee. I use instant; it sounds awful, but it tastes incredible. It’s a habit I picked up from my partner, Angelos, and it’s the perfect start to the day. I admit I spend part of the weekend working, but I love what I do, and it comes with the territory of having an independent business.

When I’m not in the studio, I might walk on Hampstead Heath, but for culture I’ll head for the Hayward Gallery in the Southbank Centre. I’m a fan of brutalist architecture and dream of showing a collection there one day. I also love the Barbican and the Whitechapel Gallery for their brilliant programming.

I’ll often have lunch with friends in Sunny Hill Park, near home. I love the Middle Eastern-inspired food at Sunny Hill Café, especially the falafel. But the Serpentine is always an adventure, so on a nice day I might walk through Hyde Park and have lunch at the café there.

I’m always interested by Machine-A, a Soho boutique that showcases a lot of young London-based designers; it’s often the first store to stock their collections, making for an interesting mix of experimental up-and-coming independent labels alongside more established brands.

Whenever I am in central London I seem to end up in Selfridges. I used to go with my parents as a kid and there are always exciting things happening in the store – especially on the fashion floors. 

Back in north London, Kiplings Tandoori has been our family go-to for years – but Jun Ming Xuan in Colindale is a newer favourite: it’s possibly the best Chinese restaurant in London. They serve dim sum by day, but in the evening it becomes a white-tablecloth kind of place with dishes such as grilled chicken dumplings and pork ribs.

I might then head to the Everyman Cinema in Hampstead. I love the disaster and horror genres and I’m obsessed with zombie films like Sleepwalkers by Stephen King. Even if I’m home early, I stay up late watching these movies, much to Angelos’ chagrin: he’s more of a Woody Allen type.

On Sunday mornings I’ll have something a light breakfast, then do a bit of shopping. Dover Street Market in Mayfair is incredible for design inspiration, even if I’m not buying. I have a sweet tooth and the Rose Bakery there is amazing: I always opt for cakes that look rustic and homemade versus faux fancy. 

If the weather is good, I might make for the Towpath Café on Regent’s Canal – it’s great for people-watching and they serve excellent sandwiches. The De Beauvoir Arms in north London is another favourite. Their chorizo with red wine is so good we talk about it in the studio all week.

The day usually winds down at my mum’s house where we gather for a roast. Everyone hangs in the garden and I’ll escape home at around 8pm to just listen to music or read. I used to look forward to leaving town at the weekends, but now my week is such a whirlwind and I travel so much, being home is the ultimate luxury.”

Serious ski kit from a burgeoning Aspen brand

Aztech Mountain creates high-tech kit with off-piste style

For those preparing to hit the slopes, Aztech Mountain’s high-altitude e-shop has high-performance clothing covered – and very stylishly so. The Aspen, Colorado-based skiwear specialist was founded in 2013 by passionate skiers Anthony Rutgers and David Roth, and later joined by six-time Olympic medallist and World Cup champion Bode Miller. This is kit designed with hardcore skiers in mind but transitions easily to everyday urban life.

Aztech Mountain stretch-nylon Capitol Peak jacket, $1,300, and stretch-nylon ski pants, $725

Aztech Mountain’s jackets in particular have developed a cult-like following. The wool Multi Nuke jacket ($1,895), for example, fuses a high-tech waterproof yet breathable wool fabric (called Schoeller C-Change) with stretch nylon to provide streamlined protection, while the Hayden 3 Layer Shell jacket ($895) is a versatile and lightweight option made more with spring skiing in mind – and comes in colour combinations of black, white and Aspen green. The tech specifics are clearly detailed for each item, from information on ventilation and waterproofing to powder skirts, detachable hoods and practical pockets – along with “Bode’s Notes”, a short anecdote about what makes that piece special from both a stylistic and performance perspective. 

Aztech Mountain wool and stretch-nylon Multi Nuke jacket, $1,895

Aztech Mountain wool Lenado shirt/jacket, $795

The Aztech Mountain ski pants ($725) are “warm but lightweight, with tons of stretch and an elongated waistband that keeps me comfortable while skiing hard,” says Miller; the quilted Lenado plaid shirt/jacket ($795) is his “favourite outer layer on warm spring days while ripping groomers”. Rounding out the ruggedly chic offerings are laidback merino-wool-blend sweatpants ($350) and technical layers such as the Ashcroft sweater ($475), which combines Italian yarn with a water-repellent Teflon coating and a print inspired by the peaks of Colorado’s Roaring Fork Valley. 

Neal Benezra’s perfect weekend in San Francisco

The director of the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art oversees the largest modern art collection in the US after a recent $305m renovation and expansion of the institution

“I’m up by 6am, even on a Saturday, and I’ll escape catching up on work emails by making a breakfast outing to Plow on Potrero Hill, where they make the most fantastic lemon ricotta pancakes.

Saturday mornings are great for farmers’ markets, such as the small but excellent one on 24th Street, near my home in Noe Valley. I am an improvising cook so I go by what is fresh, but I’m a particular devotee of broccolini and California artichokes. While there are many vendors I love, Cowgirl Creamery is a favourite for superb cheeses, especially a good, sharp Gorgonzola.

With the food shopping done, I’ll head to Browser Books on Fillmore Street. I’m still a store shopper as I like to feel a book’s weight, see the colour and the typeface. Aesthetics are important and this intimate shop is a rare treat these days.

Lunches are casual and, if my daughter is in town, we might go to a burger joint called The Ramp on San Francisco Bay. Then I’ll take in some of the Bay Area art scene, which is having a moment. As well as established places, there are interesting new ones popping up; I’ll wander around Dogpatch, home to the Minnesota Street Project’s communal galleries and the McEvoy Foundation. Then, just below the Bay Bridge on the Embarcadero sits Pier 24, an exciting space for photography set up by the Pilara family.

Because San Francisco is such a foodie city Saturday night reservations can be tough to get, so my wife Maria and I go early for dinner, followed by a film. A great spot is Tartine Manufactory in Mission. The space has a huge energy and the food is creative and delicious. I’ll have pork ribs with pumpkin-seed salsa and some of the bakery’s legendary bread – I take a hiatus from my low-gluten diet there. It’s in the same building as Heath Ceramics, so there is always a little shopping to be done while you wait.

Movies are a passion and there is no shortage of interesting cinema in this city. We’ll go to The Clay or Castro. I love these old-world movie houses and the Castro still has its 1920s frontage and an organist who plays before each screening.

Sundays we might head to Point Reyes and hike before having oysters for lunch at one of the funky shacks on Tomales Bay. Cycling is another passion and I love to head down to the peninsula, where I’ll ride around Palo Alto and Portola Valley – it’s less hilly than San Francisco and safer. The weather in the city can be dicey and it’s amazing that it is so warm and sunny just 30 miles away. It takes about 45 minutes to get there, but after a two-hour bike ride and a visit to the Anderson Collection at Stanford University, I feel I’ve had a complete mental cleanse.

Back in the city, the evening might involve another film at Modern Cinema at SFMOMA or the Pacific Film Archive at the Berkeley Art Museum. Dinner is at Out the Door, a Vietnamese in Fillmore that serves imaginative dishes like Shaking Beef – filet mignon with watercress, red onion and lime. Then I like to read the papers – from The New York Times to the Financial Times. We are a long way from the world’s major art capitals and it’s likely I’ll be flying to China, Abu Dhabi or New York the next day. Luckily, my weekends are about family and having some semblance of a life – that way I feel recharged and ready for the week ahead.”

The World's Most Romantic Hotels 2019: You Love Your Third Wheel

In this year's edition of the World's Most Romantic Hotels, we're celebrating the third wheel. Too often maligned as the wedge that can drive you and your beloved apart, we'd rather think of the third wheel as the force that draws you together, the shared passion that cements your bond. Remember, you've a big heart and a whole lotta love to give.

If You Love Each Other and You Also Love...

...ADRENALINE

Tordrillo Mountain Lodge
Judd Lake, Alaska

What's to Love: A multimillion-dollar revamp by thrill-seeking owners (Olympic gold medalist Tommy Moe and Alaskan heli-ski pioneer Mike Overcast) takes the heart rate to new heights at this five-star, multi-sport wilderness lodge. A 40-minute floatplane flight from Anchorage lands guests in the remote Tordrillo Mountains, where stylish digs, fancy chefs, a lakeside sauna, and in-room massages round out helicopter-based adventure experiences all year long. An accomplished guide team leads guests in skiing and snowboarding through steep gullies and powder fields. Summer calls for glacier hiking, wake surfing, waterskiing, wildlife viewing, and catching the Northern Lights at night.

Photos by Tanveer Badal.

...THE BEACH

Hotel Esencia
Riviera Maya, Mexico

What's to Love: You land in Cancun and drive an hour south. You turn left into the edge of the jungle and are escorted via golf cart through a thicket of vines — cue the peacocks calling out their welcome — emerging onto the quietly grand former estate of an Italian duchess, who you're told built this place to be near her lover. You pass turtles swimming a small cenote, pause for afternoon tea in the sitting room, and check into your room — a sea of white punctuated by a colorful pillow, a dramatic palm frond. Two pools await, as does a secluded beach along a gentle bay. Go-go Tulum is close by, as are excellent archaeological and ecological sites, but if all you want to think about is morning yoga, another bottle of Casa Madero rosé, the guacamole and tacos at Mistura restaurant, and getting back to the day bed along the shore, you're making the right decision.

Photos courtesy of Southern Ocean Lodge.

...GOING TO EXTREMES

Southern Ocean Lodge
Kangaroo Island, Australia

What's to Love: There's no such thing as half measures when you're about as far south as you can go before hitting Antarctica. The hotel design is dramatic and impressive: Suites sweep out from the open-plan common area in a descending crescent shape, framed by a private beach on one end and a cliffside walk on the other. There's nothing but nature wherever you look, whether out to sea from your unobstructed balcony or at the surrounding greenery on your leisurely walks. (Keep your eyes peeled for wallabes in the brush.) The food is local and amazing, and you'll want to smuggle the sheep's cheese in your mini-bar back home. When you manage to tear yourself away to explore the natural wonders throughout the island, SOL's knowledgeable guides (like Phil, the @Southern.Ranger) will tell you everything you need to know about the sea lions, kangaroos, koalas, and raptors who outnumber people down here.

Photos courtesy of Villa Tre Ville.

...CINEMA

Villa Tre Ville
Positano, Italy

What's to Love: If you've ever fantasized about dating — or being — Marcello Mastroianni, you can take dolce vita dreams to the next level by checking into the Amalfi Coast cliffside estate that was the home of legendary Italian director Franco Zeffirelli (yes, the one who did Romeo and Juliet, speaking of romance...). He spent decades restoring and designing the cliffside property so every striking detail is infused with drama, resulting in spaces that look like Italian and Moroccan stage sets and rooms named for pals like Maria Callas and characters like Tosca. Aperol spritzes appear out of nowhere, the swimming is fabulous, and the hotel's skiff will whisk you off to Da Adolfo for lunch or to Positano for a pizza at the drop of a hat.

Photos courtesy of Babylonstoren.

...THE SIMPLE LIFE

Babylonstoren
Simondium, South Africa

What’s to Love: If you’ve ever longed to turn back time to an era where people lived on farm estates and grew their own food, this is the spot for you. The charming 500-acre Cape Dutch farm is straight out of a magazine spread, with bountiful fruit orchards and vegetable patches, friendly farmhands in matching uniforms, and simple but elegant white-washed guest cottages. Upon arrival, a general feeling of peacefulness and well-being will descend. This is how life should be, you’ll think to yourself, and for a few days that is. You’ll be immersed in the world of a working – albeit highly stylized – farm, where mornings start with an epic breakfast spread of fresh produce, homemade breads, cheeses, and yogurts, and eggs from the resident free-roaming hens. A state-of-the-art winery, serene spa, two swimming pools, hiking trails, mountain bikes, and farm shop offer plenty to see and do, but it’s dinner at Babel, the estate’s award-winning restaurant, that will be most memorable.

Read More About It: Babylonstoren Is a Technicolor Salad

Photos courtesy of The Lowell.

...MANHATTAN

The Lowell
New York, New York

What's to Love: Evoking everything that's wonderful about old-school, discreet uptown, the intimate boutique hotel feels so timeless that it would be so easy to ignore Central Park and Museum Mile (mere steps away) and lose yourself inside. Start with cocktails at Jacques Bar, followed by a Mediterranean-infused French meal at Majorelle. Settle for a nightcap in the deep sofas in the Club Room, then wander upstairs, where the fireplace is roaring at the foot of your bed. Wake up, have room service on the terrace, and do the whole thing all over again.

Photos courtesy of Six Senses Yao Noi.

...GOING WILD

Six Senses Yao Noi
Phang Nga Bay, Thailand

What's to Love: If you want to stay in the jungle and live like Swiss Family Robinson meets Richard Branson, stay here. This place manages to combine the luxury of good bedding, good food and beverage, an all-day ice cream parlor, and a superlative spa with the mystery and authenticity of a Thai jungle. The materials are all natural (there is a huge focus on sustainability and local craftsmanship) and there's not a single piece of plastic in sight. Hop on a tuk tuk for a ride around the teeny island to see rubber plantations, rice paddies, a modest market, and the jade green sea, or take a boat out for a day to enjoy limestone cliffs and a warm dip. A bottle (or two) of the Six Senses local (yes, Thai wine!) rosé makes lunch that much more special.

Photos courtesy of Taylor River Lodge.

...YOUR KIDS

Taylor River Lodge
Crested Butte, Colorado

What's to Love: Open from late May through mid-October, the off-grid locale deep in Taylor Canyon is a woodsy wonderland perfect for families. There are private cabins with various set-ups — lofts, bunk beds, kitchens, and a teepee lounge. The all-inclusive rate includes not only food and drink (and an awesome mini bar), but activities like river rafting, axe-throwing, fly fishing, mountaineering, shooting BB guns (you'll shoot yer eye out, kid), and access to the beautiful pool cabin.

Photos courtesy of Singita.

... YOUR INNER BEAST

Singita Boulders Lodge
Sabi Sand Game Reserve, South Africa

What’s to Love: If it’s an adventure you’re after, look no further than this secluded twelve-suite lodge on a private concession adjacent to South Africa’s Kruger National Park. Set along the wildlife-rich banks of the Sand River, the impressive safari lodge offers some of the best service we’ve ever experienced in one of nature’s most primitive environments. Days revolve around early-morning and late-afternoon game drives with a personal safari guide and tracker. Your goal: spotting Africa’s Big Five (lions, elephants, buffalo, leopards, and rhinoceros), along with other native species like hippos, zebra, giraffes, impala, and the elusive wild dog. Both exhilarating and utterly relaxing, each excursion feels like its own journey with a surprise ending. Come afternoon, you’ll retire to your private suite, a tranquil standalone villa that looks like it was carved out of the earth: Stone walls and large glass windows make it difficult to tell where your room ends and nature begins. A private plunge pool and outdoor shower will tempt you to hole up in your suite, but the rest of the lodge, with its swimming pool, spa, fitness center, and boutique, is worth exploring. We’d be remiss to not mention the delicious food, which is overseen by award-winning chef Liam Tomlin, and the lodge’s extensive wine cellar.

Photos courtesy of Beaumanière.

...MICHELIN FEASTS

Baumanière
Lex Baux de Provence, France

What's to Love: A boutique hotel in the heart of picturesque Provence with luxurious surroundings — gardens, pools, and five distinct buildings with chic simple rooms — and one of the most wonderful restaurants anywhere. Sit outside in summer and savor fresh vegetables from their garden or sip Petrus in the 50,000-bottle wine cellar. Whatever the case, you need never leave this picturesque property. A weekend here feels completely restorative.

Read More on Fathom: Double the Fun Meets Double the Favor in Provence

Photos courtesy of Ill sereno.

Il Sereno
Lake Como, Italy

What's to Love: Set on the shores of Lake Como, this Patricia Urquoila-designed property is all stone and glass — elements that won't compete with the surrounding natural beauty. Rooms feature floor-to-ceiling windows and minimalist furnishings to maximize the views. The infinity pool is a thing of beauty, as is the hotel's fleet of classic boats that were handcrafted by local artisans and boat-making legend Daniele Riva and feature the old-school aesthetics of classic lake boats updated with Urquoila's chic fabrics and finishes.

Photos courtesy of Off the Map Travel.

...OUTER SPACE

Aurora in Bed
Tromso, Norway

What's to Love Is this a dream you're living? You're sleeping outdoors on a rooftop, cuddled under duvets, watching the Northern Lights stream and dance overhead. You've checking into the recently renovated Villa Telegrafbukta, which can sleep up to six, should you feel like sharing. If you haven't pulled all-nighters under the galaxy, you can spend days exploring fjords and islands. This is available only through travel Off the Map Travel from September through March, though December through March is the best time to see the Northern Lights.

Photos courtesy The Alpina Gstaad.

...A GREAT SPA

The Alpina Gstaad
Gstaad, Switzerland

What's to Love: Set in the Swiss Saanenland, the uber-chic boutique hotel has a traditional chalet vibe and is the height of farmhouse luxury. The sumptuous spa is all natural wood and stone — no gilt here! — and does everything from color therapy and salt treatments to Green Caviar Facials and killer couples massages in a cave room. This spa is so comprehensive — and so Zen — you'll feel reborn.

Contributors: Berit Baugher, Jeralyn Gerba, Stephanie March, Christina Ohly, Pavia Rosati.

Love Is in the Air

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