Gary Tinterow: How To Spend It in Houston

Gary Tinterow, director of Houston’s Museum of Fine Arts, on the pioneering spirit of America’s third-largest city

Houston is a can-do city, a port city, so it has always welcomed the world – and it will soon be the third-largest city in the US. There is a culture here of optimism and possibility. That spirit drew me back to my hometown after 29 years at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.

After the oil boom at the turn of the century there was great wealth generated here, and with that came civic-minded families focused on creating their own cradle of culture. As a result we have outsized arts institutions: The Museum of Fine Arts (Mies van der Rohe’s only museum in the US), The Hobby Center for the Performing Arts, the Houston Ballet, the Houston Grand Opera, the Houston Symphony. This commitment to artistic patronage continues today, and it’s the reason it’s easier to get things done here; in just a few years at the MFAH we’ve put up buildings by Steven Holl Architects and commissioned works by Ai Weiwei and Olafur Eliasson.

The Nancy and Rich Kinder Building at the Museum of Fine Arts

Olga Merson, 1911, by Henri Matisse, at the MFAH © Succession H. Matisse/Artists Rights Society (ARS) New York

The Menil Collection, not far from us, is another treasure. This Renzo Piano-designed museum with its Cy Twombly Gallery, as well as vast collections of abstract expressionist and pop art, is a must see. For a quick bite after a visit, I love Lua Viet Kitchen, just across from the museum, for excellent “Shaking Beef” – seared steak, watercress, jasmine rice and scallion oil.

Tinterow in the Lillie and Hugh Roy Cullen Sculpture Garden at the MFAH © Bryan Schutmaat

I spend a lot of my time in the Museum District, but for a green escape I’m drawn to the Buffalo Bayou Park Cistern. Alongside biking and running trails, the former cistern is now full of art installations. Galleries are another strength here; Hiram Butler is a MoMA alum whose gallery features modern American art by well-known and emerging artists alike. Sicardi Ayers Bacino is devoted to avant-garde modern and contemporary Latin American art, while McClain is very international in focus but with many Texan artists represented as well. The Project Row Houses – a series of shotgun-style houses that have been restored in Houston’s historic Third Ward – are an experimental art and enrichment community centre.

The Project Row Houses in the Third Ward © Peter Molick

Because of our diverse culture – from Mexican-Americans to people who come here from Central Asia – the cuisine in Houston is fantastically varied. When people think of “Mexican food” they’re often really talking about Tex-Mex. True Mexican food, which I adore, is exquisite and famous for its balance of flavours and moles – the thick, aromatic sauces made of ground up dried chillis and poured like a ragu over fish, fowl or vegetables. Two of my top spots for this are Hugo’s – where the baby pig is outstanding – and Cuchara, which is known for its Oaxacan mole made by female chefs. Ninfa’s is my favourite Tex-Mex joint and then Picos which specialises in regional Mexican cooking, which makes it a great place for experimenting with both cuisines. Outside of Mexican, I’m a huge fan of BCN – as in the Barcelona airport code – where chef Luis Roger, a student of Ferran Adrià, cooks refined Catalan cuisine.

The Menil Collection © Kevin Keim

I’m not much of a shopper, with two exceptions: good food and good books. At Phoenicia Specialty Foods in west Houston, you’ll find everything you need to make Middle Eastern and central Asian dishes, from spices and breads to pots and pans. For books, I go to Brazos Bookstore, Houston’s best independent bookseller, where you’ll often find University of Houston and Rice professors leading discussions. Some say there are two seasons in Houston: wet and dry. For six to nine months the weather is favourable, while in the summer, temperatures and humidity are in competition. From late-September through early-May, everyone is outdoors, exercising in the parks and verdant neighbourhoods. One winter highlight I try not to miss is the Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo at the NRG Stadium. It’s touching to see the young competitors with their livestock – and where else can you eat fried Oreos?

The Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo © Mark Felix/Getty

Tex-Mex at Ninfa’s © Becca Wright

When people come to stay, I often recommend the five-star Post Oak Hotel. I advised its owner, Tilman Fertitta, on the acquisition of works by Frank Stella and Alex Katz. In the Museum District there is Hotel ZaZa, with its spectacular skyline views. Then the Montrose area is home to a new boutique hotel, La Colombe d’Or, which fuses historic architecture with contemporary art. I’ve always been curious about lives different than my own and so I moved away for a time, but Southern politeness and manners drew me back. The crowd I’m seeing at the MFAH is much more diverse than what I saw at The Met in New York, so it feels like a dynamic time; Houston has really grown into its big city shoes.

Vive La France

What’s new in the French capital and beyond

Written by Christina Ohly Evans

After a long, pandemic-induced slumber, the City of Light is starting to twinkle again with a slew of stunning hotel, restaurant and retail openings this fall and beyond. From the lush grounds at Versailles to the Côte d’Azur, the latest hospitality experiences outside the French capital also make visitors feel cosseted as never before. We suggest booking a ticket on all-business class boutique airline La Compagnie, which flies daily from New York to Paris and Nice.

RITZ PARIS LE COMPTOIR

For gourmands or those simply in search of a snack on the go, Ritz Paris Le Comptoir is the city’s latest foodie destination from morning to night. A gourmet boutique from noted pastry chef François Perret, Ritz Paris Le Comptoir opened this summer and continues to draw locals and tourists alike into its chic, bustling environs within the storied hotel. From Monday through Saturday, Ritz Paris Le Comptoir features a short menu of breakfast pastries—perfectly flaky croissants and pains au chocolat that fly out the door—as well as lunchtime sandwiches including the César (inspired by the salad, but with a Perret touch), the Salmon, on fluffy sliced bread, and the Vegan, a uniquely delicious focaccia creation. Perret’s signature treats fill bespoke cases; madeleines in various flavors with passionfruit and raspberry confit make perfect takeaways in boxes illustrated with founders César Ritz and Auguste Escoffier. Perret’s favorite marble cake, seasonal tartlets that double as objets d’art and the famous Ritz au lait chocolate bar can all be found here as well. “The opening of the Ritz Paris Le Comptoir is the first step in a dynamic new phase for the Cambon wing of the hotel,” says the hotel’s general manager, Marc Raffray. “It’s also a more spontaneous, accessible alternative designed with Parisians in mind.” For a peek into the world of haut pastry-making—not to mention a mouthwatering mille-feuille or éclair—this café is a perfect destination. With art deco dessert trolleys, an open “pastry lab” kitchen, opulent lighting and plenty of seating, this wonderful new place is an ideal location to while away an afternoon. “The opening of this gourmet boutique offers Parisians the chance to take away pastries and enjoy a taste of the Ritz Paris legend at home,” says Perret. “I love the spontaneity and sharing of takeaway—it fits perfectly with a spur-of-the-moment desire to indulge or to treat those you love.”

CHEVAL BLANC

Completed just before lockdown in 2020, this bijou boutique hotel—the fifth in LVMH’s luxury Cheval Blanc portfolio—finally opened on September 7 to much fanfare. Set within the art deco department store La Samaritaine, the building has been reimagined by architect Edouard François with subtly sumptuous interiors by frequent LVMH collaborator Peter Marino. With just 72 accommodations (26 rooms and 46 suites), the maison promises to be an intimate Parisian home away from home, complete with sweeping views of the Louvre, Notre-Dame and the dazzling Eiffel Tower beyond. In addition to the finest linens, signature scents by Maison Dior’s perfumer, François Demachy, and sprawling marble baths, rooms include butler services to satisfy that midnight madeleine craving and more. The Quintessence Suite promises to be the pinnacle of opulence with a dedicated swimming pool, sauna and hammam as well as a light-filled fitness studio.

Food, of course, takes center stage at Cheval Blanc Paris with four restaurants including a fine dining concept helmed by Chef Arnaud Donckele of La Vague d’Or at Cheval Blanc St-Tropez. A vibrant terrace brasserie, Le Tout-Paris, promises casual cuisine with breathtaking city views. The Dior Spa Cheval Blanc is a study in serene white onyx with luxe treatments like sapphire crystal microdermabrasion. And kids are welcome, too, with dedicated areas offering oceanic themes complete with an enormous technicolor fish tank. From the fashion crowd to travelers en famille, Cheval Blanc Paris offers this season’s ultimate grand escape.

BVLGARI HOTEL

Location, location, location! The latest offering from Bvlgari Hotels & Resorts—a Parisian outpost set on the glamorous Avenue George V—is set to open in late 2021 and will offer prime access to some of the city’s finest shopping, culture and dining just steps from the iconic Arc de Triomphe. The 76 rooms are being designed by the Milanese architectural firm Antonio Citterio Patricia Viel, in concert with Parisian architects Valode & Pistre, and much like the seven other Bvlgari properties in cities including Shanghai, London and Dubai, the design aesthetic promises to be richly modern and very, very Italian. As with other Bvlgari hotels, the spa will take pride of place with a 25-meter swimming pool—in central Paris!—drawing sybarites and fitness fanatics alike.  For those in search of a proper aperitivo, the as-yet-unnamed bar, restaurant and a hidden courtyard garden will offer ideal convivial settings for that late-day Aperol spritz, in close proximity to the Champs Elysées.

Two properties worth escaping Paris for:

For a truly regal experience, book one of the 14 exquisitely appointed rooms at Airelles Château de Versailles, Le Grand Contrôle, the first hotel to open within the grounds of the Château de Versailles with direct access to the Orangerie and rare views of the Pièce d’Eau des Suisses and the sprawling palace. Spread across three buildings designed by Jules Hardouin-Mansart—Le Grand Contrôle, Le Petit Contrôle and the Pavillon des Premières Cent Marches—the hotel is a faithful, uber-luxe restoration that recreates an 18th-century ambience, right down to the staff uniforms. No expense has been spared with finishes including gilded furnishings, parquet wood floors and period tapestries. A 50-foot pool, Valmont spa and formal, haut-cuisine restaurant helmed by Alain Ducasse are also on offer. Best of all, however, is the private access to the palace and gardens that a stay here affords. Not only can you have the dazzling Hall of Mirrors to yourself after hours, but dedicated early-morning tours promise to illuminate the ghosts of Versaille and unlock the secrets of André Le Nôtre’s formal gardens and The Trianon. Le Grand Contrôle promises a hotel stay unlike any other; it’s a completely immersive experience for history buffs, epicures and aesthetes alike.

Set high above the picturesque town of Roquebrune-Cap-Martin with coastline views of Italy to the west and Monte Carlo to the east, you’ll find The Maybourne Riviera, the fifth hotel from the hospitality experts behind such iconic London properties as Claridge’s, The Connaught and The Berkeley. A sleek, modernist perch comprising 69 rooms—all with stunning sea views—the hotel has been designed with the help of local artisans as well as world-class designers including Andre Fu, Bryan O’Sullivan and Pierre Yovanovitch, to name but a few of the stellar talents. Guests will be treated to gustatory delights courtesy of chef Mauro Colagreco—of three-Michelin-starred Mirazur in nearby Menton—whose seafood-centric menu is set to be served atop the hotel, with panoramic Mediterranean views to match. Jean-Georges Vongerichten will launch a concept—his first in the South of France—inspired by its location on the French-Italian border, while Japanese chef Hiro Sato will prepare the finest sushi. Surrounded by acres of gardens and fragrant citrus orchards, guests can expect restorative spa treatments, indoor and outdoor pools and access to the chic Maybourne Riviera Beach Club. “The location of the hotel rich in art and history begs to be explored and discovered, but, equally, we believe we have created a place that if our guests just want to check in, sit back with a glass of rosé, admire the view and never leave, that will make us happy, too,” says Paddy McKillen, co-owner of the Maybourne Hotel Group. This might just be the ne plus ultra place to park it this fall.

An Italian Renaissance

After a difficult 18 months the country is back and better than ever with these exciting new hospitality offerings.

Written by Christina Ohly Evans and Natasha Wolff

Piedmont: Casa di Langa

In the heart of northern Italy’s Piedmont region, overlooking 100 acres of working vineyards and rolling hills, is Casa di Langa, a new 39-room boutique hotel. From a commitment to carbon neutrality to the use of 100 percent recycled water for irrigation, geothermal heating throughout, zero single-use plastic and solar panels, the property’s owners are dedicated to offering a sustainable and luxurious experience. Fàula Ristorante, overseen by chef Manuel Bouchard, focuses on traditional cuisine and innovative creations utilizing local ingredients sourced from their own gardens and local producers. At Sorì Cocktail Bar, guests can indulge in wines from around the world and neighboring vineyards, including rare bottles from its sister wineries Vietti and Enrico Serafino.

Liguria/The Italian Riviera: Villa della Pergola

Overlooking the Gulf of Alassio but far from the crowds of the Italian Riviera, Villa della Pergola is an intimate 15-suite property. A Luxury Relais member under the Relais & Châteaux umbrella, the hotel, surrounded by the botanical garden Giardini di Villa della Pergola, has been lovingly restored by architect Ettore Mocchetti. Each room boasts a unique look with a different aesthetic, color palette and furniture. Nove, run by chef Giorgio Servetto, offers three tasting menus and a la carte offerings echoing traditional flavors of Liguria and Piedmont with a contemporary and refined approach.

Umbria: Hotel Castello di Reschio

Autumn in Umbria is set to be spectacular with the opening of Hotel Castello di Reschio, a 10th-century castle turned sumptuous Italian escape. Set on 3,700 acres of rolling hills, gardens and vineyards, the intimate 36-room property (with nine additional villas) is the multigenerational passion project of the Bolza family, who have meticulously restored the estate to its original splendor with the help of local artisans. Enormous carved stone fireplaces, intricate stucco details and exquisite trompe l’oeil paintings adorn the spacious suites and public areas, along with bespoke furnishings and lighting designed by the family architect, Count Benedikt Bolza. A subterranean spa in the original wine cellar, an idyllic pool shaded by umbrella pines and an equestrian center complete with elegant dressage horses are all unique draws, as are cooking classes—often with truffle hunting and foraging excursions involved. Given Reschio’s location on the Umbria-Tuscany border, gastronomy is central to any stay here, and the terraced Ristorante Al Castello is the place for refined Italian fare at sunset, while the Ristorante Alle Scuderie—with its buzzy Centrale Bar—is perfect for wood-fired pizzas and an aperitivo. The glass-ceilinged Palm Court is the spot for afternoon tea, while Il Torrino in the former watchtower serves the best post-swim sandwiches, cocktails and homemade gelato. For a mix of medieval history and architecture with stunning contemporary design and unparalleled attention to detail, Hotel Castello di Reschio is your best bet.

Sicily: Villa Igiea

One of summer’s most exciting openings is Villa Igiea, an historic art nouveau palazzo-turned-boutique bolthole that’s part of the Rocco Forte Hotel collection. Their seventh property in Italy—and second in Sicily—has been meticulously renovated and restored by hotelier Sir Rocco Forte and his design director sister, Olga Polizzi, with the help of interior designers Paolo Moschino and Philip Vergeylen of London’s Nicholas Haslam. The result of their painstaking attention to detail is a stunning 100-room grand hotel overlooking the Gulf of Palermo where guests are transported back to a stunning belle epoque era. Rooms are richly appointed in tapestries and velvet, with locally produced ceramics and frescoes found in libraries and niches throughout. A spa visit is central to any stay here with signature treatments and Sicilian products by Irene Forte administered in a light-filled sanctuary adjacent to the hotel’s magnificent gardens. Equally enticing are Villa Igiea’s dining options: Chef Fulvio Pierangelini oversees three restaurants, including the more formal Florio, with its terrace overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea. The vaulted Terrazza Bar is the place for an aperitivo, while Alicetta Pool Bar serves light bites, wood-fired pizzas and housemade gelato. Palermo is often overlooked as visitors make beelines for the beaches and Taormina, but Villa Igiea is the perfect perch for exploring this vibrant Sicilian city.

Sicily: San Domenico Palace, Taormina, a Four Seasons Hotel

With just 111 guest rooms and suites (19 have private plunge pools), the San Domenico Palace, Taormina, a Four Seasons Hotel is built on the site of a 14th-century Dominican convent. Perched on a rocky promontory high above the Ionian Sea, the Taormina property boasts spectacular views in every direction. Set amid lush gardens reimagined by acclaimed Italian landscape architect Marco Bay, the interiors pair contemporary art with antiquities and architectural relics. “Everything past guests have always loved about San Domenico Palace has been restored, with familiar faces and vistas at every turn,” says the hotel’s general manager, Lorenzo Maraviglia, who has returned to his home country following years abroad to introduce Four Seasons to Sicily for the first time. “It’s been a meticulous evolution that honors the site’s past while elevating every aspect to a new level of personalized service, extraordinary experiences and the opportunity to create memories to last a lifetime. We are incredibly grateful to Gruppo Statuto for their investment and proud of the fact that it’s an Italian company that undertook this massive renovation project using only local craftspeople. This is Italy at its best.” With executive chef Massimo Mantarro at the helm of the hotel’s four signature restaurants, Principe Cerami, Rosso, Anciovi and Bar & Chiostro, the best of Sicilian cuisine is yours for the taking. Savory pastas like marinated cuttlefish tagliatelle over homemade spaghetti with cuttlefish ink and a zucchini blossom fondue and a penne alla Norma with eggplant and ricotta cheese are two of the must-try dishes on the mouth-watering menu.

Florence/Tuscany: The Place Firenze

First opened in 2003 as part of the J.K. Place brand, the Place Firenze is the brainchild of Italian entrepreneur Carlo Babini and his family. Years later, it was time for a new look and new offerings to appeal to modern travelers. “The time has come to embark on a new adventure, celebrate what makes us different and recognize the contribution of talented general manager Claudio Meli in forging such a unique identity in the world of Italian hospitality,” explains Babini. Studio Luigi Fragola provided a serene, contemporary new design concept for this elegant Florentine home on the historic Piazza Santa Maria Novella. “The aim was to create an urban design scheme with a contemporary feel that was nevertheless immersed in the historical context of the hotel’s location,” says Luigi Fragola, “to enact an alchemical fusion of old and new in order to rejuvenate a much-loved classic.” The Terrace all-day restaurant located right on the piazza is shaded by parchment-hued parasols with red fringe, offering a breezy new look for al fresco dining. The Kitchen & The Bar indoors serves Tuscan cuisine by chef Asso Migliore that is simple yet divine.

Florence/Tuscany: Helvetia & Bristol Firenze

Just steps from the majestic Duomo and the galleries of the Uffizi, the reimagined Helvetia & Bristol marries 19th-century glamour with contemporary design after a restoration that has been six years in the making. The original Helvetia palazzo has been seamlessly joined with the adjacent Bristol wing—a building that once housed Banco di Roma—and its beautiful parquet oak floors, sumptuous velvet curtains and enormous canopy beds are reminiscent of a bygone Grand Tour era. The hotel’s 25 new rooms and suites have been designed by Anouska Hempel, whose flair for luxurious fabrics and finishes is in full effect. Together with the finest Italian craftspeople—Moleria Locchi, glassmakers from Murano; Antico Setificio Fiorentino, local makers of tapestries and silks; to name but a few—the 89 rooms of this Starhotels Collezione property have gone from good to positively sublime. The recently completed Bristol Winter Garden, with its art deco skylight, walls of mirrors and chinoiserie detailing, is the place for a formal yet festive meal, while Cibrèo Caffè is the casual, convivial spot for breakfast or an evening aperitivo. The hotel’s spa—soon to be the largest in central Florence—is built on the site of former Capitoline thermal baths of the Roman Florentia and promises to entice sybarites and history buffs alike. For a romantic step back in time, book now to marvel at this meticulous makeover that is clearly a labor of love.

Boston Uncommon

What’s new in the Bay State

By Christina Ohly Evans

If ever there was a city synonymous with fall, it would have to be Boston, with its many academic institutions, stately brownstones lining the leafy streets of Back Bay, the sweeping Charles River and a generally tweedy vibe. This autumn, there are even more reasons to return—and rest—in sumptuous style with the reimagining of several of the city’s storied properties. Here are just a few of the best places to perch before setting off to see this year’s stunning New England foliage.

Mandarin Oriental

After a long closure for COVID-19 and a $15 million renovation overseen by Alexandra Champalimaud of Champalimaud Design, the Mandarin Oriental is back and buzzier than ever. It has always benefited from a great location in the heart of Back Bay, steps from the Prudential Center and minutes away from the area’s many colleges and universities. Embracing its popularity with families and long-stay guests, the hotel’s 126 spacious, light-filled rooms and suites have been reimagined with a residential feel in mind. Looking ahead to late fall, the hotel will see the opening of Ramsay’s Kitchen by Gordon Ramsay—a bustling all-day dining destination featuring the chef’s iconic recipes like beef wellington and an elevated take on fish and chips, with nods to Boston’s rich culinary history. For those in search of lobster and clam bouillabaisse with a Back Bay twist, be sure to book this November.

The Newbury

Opened in 1927 as one of the original Ritz-Carlton hotels, The Newbury was an iconic property from the start. Set at the edge of the historic Boston Common at the intersection of Arlington and Newbury Streets, the hotel’s 268 rooms and suites—as well as its public spaces—have been massively renovated, restored or reimagined by a trio of design talents: architect Jeffrey Beers (entrance and public spaces, including the cozy library and bustling Street Bar), Champalimaud Design (guest rooms) and Ken Fulk (the rooftop restaurant Contessa). The results of this collaboration are a seamless mix of old-world elegance and colorful modernity. On the roof, you’ll find Contessa, a 140-seat bustling trattoria with stunning views of the Back Bay and grilled Mediterranean branzino to match. Overseen by Major Food Group, Contessa will serve breakfast, lunch and dinner as well as a robust bar for that perfect afternoon aperitivo. Highlights include wood-fired pizzas that are perfect for sharing, spicy lobster capellini and a signature 40-ounce Bistecca Fiorentina for two.

The Langham

Following a $200 million, two-year renovation, the iconic Langham is once again offering classic American elegance, albeit with state-of-art fitness facilities, elevated culinary offerings and a world-class art collection. Set in the heart of downtown, the storied property—built in 1922 as the Federal Reserve Bank of Boston—is rich in New England history, but with modern twists including in-room Peloton bikes upon request and a rare (for any city) indoor lap pool. The 312 rooms have been reimagined in muted shades of gray and blue, while the dining spaces, including Grana and the cocktail bar, The Fed, promise to be lively destinations for tourists and locals alike. From the luxurious lobby to bilevel Loft Suites that are perfect for lengthier stays, the Langham offers a one-of-a-kind experience for art aficionados, finance fiends and anyone interested in hotel history.

Welcome to Napa 2.0 — The New Provence

If your dreams of spending the summer in the Mediterranean feel a little too complicated this year, look to Napa, which is fast becoming the New Provence. Contributing editor Christina Ohly has a look at the area's best new offerings.

The pool at Solage. Photo courtesy of Solage, Auberge Resorts Collection.

NAPA VALLEY — Napa Valley — long an escape for oenophiles and foodies alike — is coming back from a year like no other. Between pandemic shut-downs and devastating wildfires, the area literally got its ass kicked. But in a triumph of human resilience as well as natural regrowth, this part of California’s wine country has come back, and it’s better than ever.

I hadn’t traveled at all during the pandemic and decided that this part of the country — with its easy access from San Francisco International Airport — was perfect for my first foray back into a world outside my Northeast comfort zone. What I found was an area marred (in places) by the Glass Fire, but one that has bounced back to set visitors at ease, provide delicious meals and spa experiences, and access to some of the finest vineyards in the world. Add to that sumptuous new hotel rooms, farm-fresh cuisine, and scenic hikes and biking, and the 30-mile stretch that is Napa Valley is looking like a fail-safe bet for summer.

For many, the allure of the Med will remain irresistible, but for others still anxious about travel, a comparable experience in Napa Valley — with zero hassle! — will more than make up for the missed aperitivo. And take heart! Competitive bocce abounds here as well.

All things considered, we're calling Napa the New Provence.

Oxbow Public Market. Photo by Pavia Rosati.

First Stop: Napa

The “city” of Napa doesn’t typically get a lot of love, as people tend to bypass it for the quainter towns of Calistoga, St. Helena, and Yountville. But it’s absolutely worth stopping for at least a day. Oxbow Public Market, brimming with everything from wood-fired pizzas to local cheeses, ice cream, and olive oil, to spices from around the globe, is a gastronome’s true north.

Next door to Oxbow is CIA at Copia, the Culinary Institute of America’s newest campus, which offers hands-on cooking classes, boot camps, and private lessons, many in partnership with America’s Test Kitchen. If you’d rather let the pros cook, have a meal at The Grove at Copia, where the meal is locally inspired (of course). For a truly highbrow meal, Le Petit Chef is a 3D dining experience inspired by Marco Polo’s travels along the Silk Road. Another must for curious foodies is The Chuck Williams Culinary Arts Museum on the top floor, which displays the mind-blowingly extensive collection of more than 4,000 kitchen tools, accessories, and serving ware pieces amassed by the Williams-Sonoma founder. (Le Petit Chef and the museum are currently closed, but will reopen.)

A terrific addition to the lodging scene in downtown Napa is R-INN, a converted historic building reimagined as a sleek boutique hotel. I recommend one of the independently-owned property’s five spacious loft suites, complete with 20’ ceilings, poured concrete floors, and vibrant artwork. This being northern California, the WiFi, enormous flatscreen TVs, Bluetooth speaker system — and even the coffee maker — are all state of the art, and the setting is perfect for those dwindling work from home days.

Auberge du Soleil at twilight. Photo courtesy of Auberge du Soleil, Auberge Resorts Collection.

The spa at Auberge du Soleil. Photo courtesy of Auberge du Soleil, Auberge Resorts Collection.

Chilling at Auberge du Soleil. Photo by Christina Ohly.

Heading North: Yountville & Rutherford

Long considered the culinary capital of Napa Valley, the town hangs onto the title with its many Michelin starred establishments — World’s Best chart-topper French Laundry, Mustards Grill, and Bistro Jeanty among them — but it was Ad Hoc that stole my heart during my brief visit. The casual branch of chef Thomas Keller’s empire, Ad Hoc serves killer (yet elevated, of course) mac ‘n’ cheese and buckets of fried chicken — with wine pairings — that make for a perfect picnic in the gorgeous surroundings.

Moving northward, Auberge du Soleil in Rutherford still reigns as the grande dame of the hotel scene out here. This was my first post-vaccination hotel stay, and it proved a completely luxurious, restorative escape. Our airy, 1,200-square-foot Valley View suite, with its sprawling terrace overlooking olive groves and the Myacamas Mountains beyond, was perfect for my teenage daughter and I to spread out and work/online school. The 50 rooms and suites have been recently refreshed and a neutral palette pervades, with crisp linens and thick, fluffy robes. (Oh, how I've missed such lovely hotel amenities.) Fully stocked refrigerators, a next-level team of estheticians at the tranquil spa, and a perfectly prepared cheeseburger served poolside were among the highlights of our stay.

Also of note is the gym, which features indoor and outdoor equipment to maximize valley views. After a 30-minute workout followed by iced tea at the redesigned pool area (think Il Pelicano meets St. Barths, with flowy canvas and stripy chaise lounges), I felt as though I’d been to Provence for two days. What enhanced my stay were the excellent team of concierges who arranged for our use of Auberge’s fleet of Mercedes — SUVs and Cali-perfect convertibles — and pointed us in the direction of restaurants like Press in nearby St. Helena and the iconic Oakville Grocery for prosciutto and brie sandwiches for the road. The loaner vehicles also enabled us to discover Carter and Co, my favorite new retail gem that specializes in artisan-produced everything in St. Helena. Come here to meet owner/artist Richard Carter and see his exquisite ceramics, along with a carefully curated selection of housewares, sustainably made deerskin jackets, local honeys, olive oil, and more.

The pool at Solage. Photo courtesy of Solage, Auberge Resorts Collection.

A guest room at Solage. Photo courtesy of Solage, Auberge Resorts Collection.

Next Up: Calistoga

I have to admit, I didn’t want to leave Auberge at all, but the blow was softened by moving on to Auberge Resorts’ sister property Solage in nearby Calistoga. The hotel isn’t brand new, but everything (suites and studios included) has been refreshed over the past six months — the Covid safety protocols, the patio dining at Solbar (loved the twinkling lights), and the retro bicycles outside every room which made exploring downtown Calistoga a breeze. Any day now, Solage’s latest culinary offering, Picobar, will offer modern Mexican fare with atmospheric firepits and live music.

The feeling at Solage is sleek and contemporary (white pervades and rooms are minimalist chic), and it’s all just a bit more casual than at Auberge. I was there mid-week and there were no kids, but I can imagine the hotel’s enormous central pool (with swimming lessons) is a big draw for families at weekends. The team has, however, figured it out so that you never have to see anyone. Quiet places abound throughout the Bathhouse spa and geothermal soaking pools area. Overall, I felt as though I’d been transported to a Zen place with just the right amount of activity. In addition to the plunge pools (ranging from icily invigorating to seriously hot), I highly recommend a three-part, detoxifying mud bath. Calistoga has long been known for these curative slatherings (and I must admit, I wasn’t a buyer at first) and Solage’s “mud bar” was fantastic: I could feel the toxins from the last fifteen months leaving my body. (I won’t miss them!) Next time, I am going back for The Starlight spa experience where you soak and sip outside under the stars, after everyone else has gone.

The pool (and the view) at Indian Springs. Photo courtesy of Indian Springs Resort and Spa.

The entrance to the spa at Indian Springs. Photo by Christina Ohly.

Also of note is Indian Springs Resort and Spa just around the corner from Solage. A historic resort with a jaw-dropping Olympic-sized pool, Indian Springs is something a cult classic, with its Mission Revival main building (Fun fact: It was originally intended as the site of Stanford University) and sweet bungalows and cottages that attract families and couples alike. The mud bath here is especially low-fi and effective. Funky and fabulous (it has a Buddha Pond!), this is one for spa-goers looking for a slightly kitschy touch — and a meal at the buzzy-chic Sam’s Social Club, where breakfasts include a salad of maitake mushrooms, kale, poached egg, and farro in a shallot vinaigrette. This is, after all, NorCal.

In other Calistoga news, the Four Seasons Resort and Residences Napa Valley, located literally across the road from Solage, is set for a late summer opening. Its 85 spacious guest rooms will bring more farmhouse chic to an area already in very high demand.

Alila Napa Valley. Photo by Christina Ohly.

The best meal of the trip at Acacia House. Photos by Christina Ohly.

The vineyard views from the room at Alila Napa Valley. Photo courtesy of Alila Napa Valley

More Spectacular Settings

One of the best area openings/re-launches is the Alila Napa Valley in St. Helena, which originally opened in 2017 as Las Alcobas, the sister hotel to the fantastic boutique hotel of the same name in Mexico City. The re-imagined property with 68 guest rooms and seven suites offers the ultimate mix of historic and contemporary luxury. The original Acacia House built in 1905 now has six guest room and a restaurant by noted chef San Francisco Chris Consentino. The single most memorable meal I ate during this trip was at Acacia House: a “simple” chicken salad and a club sandwich with fries, the best we’d ever tasted. Anywhere. The rooms, by noted hotel design firm Yabu Pushelberg, retain a sleek vibe, with lots of glass, metal and stone finishes, and sweeping views of the vineyard in the backyard. The new Alila Spa is set in a light-filled barn, and daily yoga classes and TRX fitness equipment are all part of the package.

Slightly further afield — and technically in Sonoma County but so worth a detour — is the stunning new Montage Healdsburg, with 130 Bungalow rooms and 34 spacious suites. The basic room category starts at 600 square feet, with a three-bedroom Guest House stretching to 4,600 square feet, complete with three bedrooms, a fully stocked kitchen, and a hot tub.

Dining outdoors at Montage Healdsburg. Photo by Christian Horan / courtesy of Montage Healdsburg.

Hazel Hill restaurant. Photo by Christian Horan / courtesy of Montage Healdsburg.

A guest house at Montage Healdsburg. Photo by Christian Horan / courtesy of Montage Healdsburg.

You get the feeling that no expense has been spared. Warm wood and natural stone finishes are found throughout, as are fire features and a stunning, infinity-edge, adults-only pool. Of special note is the expansive spa with views of the Alexander Valley, Yoga Among the Vines classes, and special treatments like a Harvest Honey Ginger Infusion Ritual (for moisturizing and immunity boosting) and a California Wildflower Ritual that includes healing poultices and vibrational technology. The next-level fitness center full of TechnoGym equipment and Peloton bikes is ideal for peaceful workout, so between the spa and gym, plan to spend a full day here if you are a remotely sporty fitness type.

And the food! Montage Healdsburg options include Hazel Hill, which serves a fusion of French and Northern California cuisines and a seasonal vegan menu. The wine list is world-class, with many bottles from Aperture Cellars, the renown winery next door. Convivial Scout Bar at the heart of the resort is the spot for casual drinks and a menu that ranges from caviar to double-patty burgers. An on-site grab-and-go market, the Healdsburg Country Store, offers frothy cappuccinos, wraps, and chocolate fudge brownies. Just one more reason to never leave this gorgeous landscape.

Looking Ahead to Autumn

One of the fall’s most anticipated openings is Stanly Ranch, a 712-year-old historic property poised to open in November ten minutes from the town of Napa, with 135 cottage suites and its own vineyard. Like the other neighboring Auberge Resorts Collection properties, Stanly Ranch will focus on a world-class spa and farm-to-fork cuisine led by chef Perfecte Rocher, with much of the produce coming from the surrounding land. A grand pool with an adjacent Basin Bar will be the place for evening snacks and wine tastings, while The Larder will be the breakfast, lunch, and dinner hub.

For hefty doses of lavender and a practically Provençal experience, you’ll want to book now. The only downside to visiting Napa Valley (that I can see) is that rooms are becoming increasingly hard to come by. Which may not be surprising, as this hardly undiscovered special, vibrant part of California only gets more special and vibrant with time.

Tadao Ando: ‘We need unbreakable passion to survive the unknown future’

The Pritzker Prize-winning architect cherishes his Ettore Sottsass typewriter, English Breakfast tea — and uncertainty

Christina Ohly Evans

My personal style signifier is a black jacket with a raised collar by Issey Miyake. Mr Miyake has a consistent philosophy that permeates his fashion, personality and lifestyle. His designs are not only masterful but embrace a productive sense of tension. I treat this apparel as my armour to enter the battlefield that is architecture.

The last thing I bought and loved was a Le Corbusier monograph, Oeuvre Complète Volume 6: 1952-1957. This edition highlights projects such as the beginning of Chandigarh and the completion of Notre-Dame du Haut – the Ronchamp chapel. As humans, we lose our speed and energy as our minds and bodies age. However, in his mid-40s, Le Corbusier developed most as an architect. His work accelerated in both production and innovation.

The Bourse de Commerce-Pinault Collection has now opened in Paris © Tadao Ando Architect & Associates, Niney et Marca Architectes, Agence Pierre-Antoine Gatier. Photograph: Maxime Tétard, Studio Les Graphiquants, Paris

The place I can’t wait to return to is Paris. I look forward to visiting the Hôtel d’Angleterre as I’ve stayed there since the start of my career. And I long to walk around the Bourse de Commerce gallery, which I designed, now that it is opening. I’m excited to see the spectacular fresco restoration as well as artworks that have been specially commissioned for the space.

An indulgence I would never forgo is being able to live and walk on my own two feet. In the past 10 years, I have had two major surgeries to remove five of my organs, including my pancreas. I am so happy to be able to continue working.

Artwork by Damien Hirst hanging in Ando’s studio © Yasuyuki Takagi

A radio by Italian architect and designer Marco Zanuso © Yasuyuki Takagi

The best book I’ve read this year is Botchan by Natsume Soseki, which in its beauty and depth is the origin of modern Japanese literature. I picked it up again this year for the first time in decades. It encapsulates the spirit of humanity, and like all great literature offers varying interpretations depending on what stage of life you are at when you read it.

In my fridge you’ll always find empty space. I have toast and English Breakfast tea first thing. After that there are a number of great restaurants in the Umeda area of Osaka, where I live. I like a simple udon from one of the bars near my studio. I’m not particularly picky, and while I am fine with any food, I do like to eat quickly and I prefer that it be healthy. I have coffee or tea with my lunch – I drink a few cups throughout the day – and I never drink alcohol.

The work of art that changed everything is the collective work produced by the Gutai Group of Japan. They were extraordinarily prolific artists in the mid-20th century and have been significant influences in my life. From them, I learned the importance of thinking about things radically from their origins, and about materiality.

An external view of Ando’s Osaka studio © Yasuyuki Takagi

Ando collects Ice-Watches and fountain pens

His typewriter by Ettore Sottsass © Yasuyuki Takagi (2)

I have a collection of fountain pens, many of which I have received as gifts over the years. I don’t necessarily have an interest in the act of collecting so much as I like designed objects to be simple, robust, and to balance cost, aesthetics and functionality. My favourite is a red Montblanc fountain pen designed by Marc Newson. An ingenious magnet mechanism allows the logo of the pen and the cap to perfectly align when it is closed. I also have what almost amounts to a collection of Ice-Watches in different colours. I rotate them depending on the day.

The best gift I’ve given recently was when I designed and funded the Nakanoshima Children’s Book Forest, which opened last summer. I see this library as a gift from the adults to the children of Osaka.

Château La Coste rosé, given to Ando by Paddy McKillen © Yasuyuki Takagi

And the best gift I’ve received recently is a bottle of rosé from Château La Coste. It came from my client and friend, Paddy McKillen. Its pale amber colour seems to reflect the spirit of the architecture we collaborated on together. Whenever I see the bottle, I think back to the wonderful memories of working alongside him in the south of France and London.

The design that intrigues me the most is that hidden in anything we use habitually in our daily lives. A great master architect, Seiichi Shirai, once said he found beauty in the ordinary design, shape and colour of tofu, an everyday staple of the Japanese people.

My favourite view in the world is of cherry blossom trees lining the Dojima River in Nakanoshima, a large body of water running through the middle of Osaka. About 6,000 trees bloom in unison across a 7.5km-long stretch of river. This natural spectacle was created by extending the original tree-lined path of less than a kilometre. I launched a tree-planting initiative over 15 years ago to beautify the area. My hope was to create a new urban axis within Osaka utilising the power of of nature. It is a pleasure to see the results of this work every spring.

Ando’s Osaka studio © Yasuyuki Takagi

The last item of clothing I added to my wardrobe was a black raincoat from Mackintosh in London. I like how light and comfortable it is, and it works well for travel. £995

The last music I downloaded was a song that Bono recorded just for the Nakanoshima Children’s Book Forest. He sang it beautifully, improvising the lyrics and the melody on the spot. I recently added it to my playlist, but it hasn’t been publicly released.

An object I would never part with is a typewriter designed by Ettore Sottsass that I found some 50 years ago when I first started my practice. I had wanted it since my 20s, and in my 30s I was finally able to get my hands on one. This object is inextricably connected with my memories of my early career, when I was running headfirst into an unpredictable future.

My favourite room is my studio, which is near my house and where I spend most of my days. I feel most at home when I’m working. This quadruple-height space, which is filled with light and books, gives me great energy.

A boxing glove signed by heavyweight champion Evander Holyfield and gifted to Ando

he last thing Ando bought and loved: a Le Corbusier monograph © Yasuyuki Takagi

A portrait of Ando by Saori Zelnik © Yasuyuki Takagi

Right now, I’m planning a large national art museum in Tashkent, Uzbekistan. I’m also working on a modest seaside gallery of less than 20sq m next to a provincial Japanese city. It invigorates me to simultaneously take on such wildly different projects.

A recent find is uncertainty. I’ve been thinking about how none of us has any idea what will unfold in the future. One year ago, I could not imagine that the world would change so much because of this pandemic. We need unbreakable passion to survive the unknown future.

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be a designer or a craftsman in another field. When I was younger, I got into the world of contemporary sculpture and product design, but I also remember having a passion for watching the carpenter’s daily progress renovating the wooden house I lived in. I think I was always going to be involved in the business of creating things.

My favourite architectural site is the skyline of Manhattan, one of the great masterpieces of the 20th century. If I had to narrow it down even further, I would say the art deco skyscrapers, especially the Chrysler Building.

The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is the work of Pablo Picasso. He explored the malleable possibilities of formal expression and laid the foundation for the world of contemporary art. It would be wonderful to gather all his creations in a single place to see his comprehensive body of work.

The 50 greatest food stores in the world

Where to find the best produce on the planet, from classic New York delis and Indian spice emporiums to German sausage shops

Tim Auld, Leah Bhabha, Emiko Davies, Christina Ohly Evans, Fiona Golfar, Ajesh Patalay, Charlene Prempeh, Maria Shollenbarger, Rima Suqi

Chicken pot pie at Butterfield Market

Butterfield Market, New York

In business on the Upper East Side for over a century, this market and deli has expanded during Covid-19 to an airy new spot on Madison Avenue with even more room for cases full of delicious prepared foods: jumbo lump-crab cakes, hearty chicken pot pie, traditional Jewish “appetising” and sides galore. Loyal customers head here for the iced French cruller doughnuts (they sell out by noon), fruit tarts and soufflés, as well as freshly baked pizzas. Organic pressed juices, a frozen-yoghurt station and a coffee bar worthy of Italy round this out. Christina Ohly Evans butterfieldnyc.com

Call Your Mother, Washington

“All about the bagel sandwich…”: Call Your Mother © Tim Casey

Set in a hot-pink former flower shop in Washington’s Georgetown neighbourhood, Call Your Mother is all about the bagel sandwich. Bestsellers include The Gleneagle – a za’atar-dusted bagel with lashings of candied salmon cream cheese and shallots – and The Sun City: a pastrami, egg, cheese and spicy-honey breakfast sandwich that can command an hour-long wait. Sandwiches on rye and challah, traditional black-and-white cookies and babka muffins round out this carb-lovers’ dream. COE callyourmotherdeli.com

Farmshop, Santa Monica

The historic Brentwood Country Mart is home to Farmshop, a California-inspired market, bakery and restaurant that highlights the best of artisanal, edible everything. Cheese lovers will delight in Central Coast Creamery’s Goat Gouda, as well as cheddar-style Barely Buzzed rubbed with lavender and espresso beans, while prepared foods including vegetable quiches, hearty soups and gluten-free financiers have earned Farmshop a dedicated fan base. This being LA, shelves are lined with organic oat milk, Saffron Latte Wellness Powder and Turmeric Spice Blend Mylk by Goldyn Glow – and you’ll feel better by just visiting. COE farmshopca.com/santa-monica

Loaves & Fishes, Sagaponack, the Hamptons

Freshly baked bread on the shelves of Loaves & Fishes

Considered the best place in the Hamptons for fine foods to take away, Loaves & Fishes is famed for its grilled citrus salmon, chicken schnitzel and chunky fresh lobster salad. Savour house-made Sicilian pistachio ice cream, salted-caramel spice cake and apricot galettes by beloved proprietress Sybille van Kempen’s pastry team, and stock up on local jams and freshly baked baguettes. COE loavesandfishes.us

Manteigaria Silva, Lisbon

Manteigaria Silva, Lisbon Lisbon’s oldest grocery store is a feast for the senses with its wide array of Serra da Estrela cheeses and dry-cured hams dangling from the rafters, as well as its signature bacalhau (sea salt-cured cod). COE manteigariasilva.pt

Jake Tapper: ‘I’m generally more of an old-school-rap kind of guy’

The CNN anchor and author talks personal taste

Christina Ohly Evans

My personal style signifiers are dark suits, white shirts and ties – and maybe a fun pocket square or cufflinks for colour. I’m a news anchor, so this is my go-to uniform. I’ve recently started wearing glasses on air as well. My wife bought me a pair of Dita Statesman Three glasses and I find that it’s just easier to keep wearing them than remembering to take them off between segments. £535

The last thing I bought and loved was a pair of Grogu – or baby Yoda – cufflinks. I’m a big fan of the Star Wars spin-off series, The Mandalorian, and I’ll wear these on air. I also have a pair in the likeness of my dogs, Winston and Clementine. I got them for my birthday from a viewer who knew that I love cufflinks. $70.99, shopdisney.com

On my wishlist is a vaccine for my wife, Jennifer, and my kids. That’s all I really want. And some plane tickets to Idaho or Wyoming for a family summer vacation would be great as well. I have to admit that other than that I’m pretty content.

Tapper in the live studio at The Hay-Adams Hotel, Washington DC © Stephen Voss

The best souvenir I’ve brought home is… a long story. I wrote a book in 2012 about Combat Outpost Keating in Afghanistan but I was never able to actually get there. A soldier friend of mine brought me some earth from that spot, and when the book was made into a movie [The Outpost], my family and I went to Bulgaria for the shoot. My kids collected dirt from the set, and we combined it with the actual dirt from the camp, and my father-in-law made souvenir pens using the mixture that are a tribute to this battle, the soldiers who died and the Gold Star families who lost loved ones. On my wishlist is a vaccine for my wife, Jennifer, and my kids

The last item of clothing I added to my wardrobe was probably a tie. I have solids, prints, florals, wacky ones – though not Al Yankovic wacky – more conservative styles, and of course Yoda and Millennium Falcon ties because I love all things Star Wars. I buy mostly from Bonobos or Suitsupply.

A recent find is MyHeritage.com. There is a cool part of the app where you upload a photo – say, a family member from the 1800s – and you can enhance the quality, add colour and, using some AI, even animate it. It produces this little video of an older relative, or someone you’ve never even met, and I now do this randomly for people, even Twitter followers. Today I made one for Ken Vogel of The New York Times based on a picture that he’d posted. Sometimes the animated versions freak people out, but I love how it brings history to life.

Tapper’s baby Yoda cufflinks © Stephen Voss

His cufflinks of his two dogs, Winston and Clementine © Stephen Voss

The best gifts I’ve given recently are rods and reels to my kids, who are 11 and 13 years old, so that we can learn how to fish this summer. We know the basics, but we’re going to learn how to do it properly using nightcrawlers and lures. My daughter, Alice, got a pink one (please note: at her request) and my son, Jack, got a camo spinning combo. We’ll see if our activity merits this kind of detail. dickssportinggoods.com

And the best gift I’ve received is an acoustic guitar from my friend [and TV host] Jimmy Kimmel. It’s made by Rockbridge Guitar Company. Dave Matthews also owns one, and Jimmy knows I’m a huge Dave Matthews fan so this was very special. I can’t really play it, but I did download the app to learn at the beginning of the pandemic, like everyone else. It’s sitting there just waiting to be played. rockbridgeguitar.com

Tapper’s acoustic guitar given to him by Jimmy Kimmel © Stephen Voss

The last music I downloaded was Shoot for the Stars, Aim for the Moon by American rapper Pop Smoke. Everyone was talking about this posthumous album, so I was interested. I’m generally more of an old-school-rap kind of guy: The Sugarhill Gang, Warren G, Biggie, Tupac, Melle Mel, the Beastie Boys.

An Eldridge Cleaver poster, part of his collection of losing presidential candidates’ posters

I have a collection of posters of losing presidential candidates. It started with George Bush’s 1992 poster. It seemed amusing and historical to me, and so I started adding posters from earlier elections too, such as an “Al Smith for President” banner. As far as I know, it’s the only collection of its kind. US presidential history is fascinating; Strom Thurmond was a horrible person and I don’t like what he stood for, but in terms of memorabilia, this poster was very tough to get. Of course, because I don’t like what he stood for, I put a few posters of revolutionary black candidates on top of it – Eldridge Cleaver and Shirley Chisholm. I’ve got a Henry Clay from 1848, and a Stephen Douglas from when he ran against Lincoln, but I’ve run out of wall space so I am toning down the collecting now. I source from eBay and auctions, and sometimes I receive gifts from people who know about my passion. I just got a Trump 2020, which I might put next to my Hillary Clinton.

Cary Grant: Tapper’s style icon © Getty Images

My style icon is difficult to choose because at heart I’m a jeans and T-shirt guy, but if I had to look like anyone in a suit it would be Cary Grant, because he always looked perfect and yet his style appeared effortless. To be clear, I am nowhere near this.

The best book I’ve read in the past year is maybe Shaker, a novel by Scott Frank, the writer and director of The Queen’s Gambit. But there are so many: Win, which is a mystery by Harlan Coben; Just Like You by Nick Hornby; The Law of Innocence by Michael Connelly; Where the Crawdads Sing by Delia Owens – and I would recommend them all. I always have to be reading something and since my life is full of non-fiction, I prefer fiction. It’s the same with my TV consumption: no news, only drama and comedy.

An indulgence I would never forgo is bourbon on ice. I’ll try any bourbon.

The technology I couldn’t do without is an app called LiveAuctioneers that lets you join an auction live. It’s how I’ve found some of my most prized presidential posters and other interesting stuff. I couldn’t do without it because it’s constantly changing and always fascinating – the competitive bidding really gets the adrenaline going. My wife would prefer I delete it.

An object I would never part with is my grandmother’s collection of Winston Churchill books. She was Canadian and my grandfather was in the Canadian Navy during the second world war. She revered Churchill and his leadership during the war. I’ve added significantly to the collection over the years and I hope to pass it on to my kids. In a perfect world I could show her how I’ve built on her collection.

In my fridge you’ll always find hard-boiled eggs because they are the perfect snack food that’s also healthy. If I’m hungry and I don’t want to eat a bag of barbecue potato chips or a sleeve of cookies, I try to head it off at the pass. There’s always cheese, berries and yoghurt for my daughter, and salami for my son. Since we’ve been at home more, I’ve tried to master cooking a few Jewish delicacies – latkes for Hanukkah, hamantaschen for Purim – as well as Korean barbecue. But I’m more of a grill guy really, especially in summer.

My favourite room in my house is my TV room. My wife has decorated it to feel like a ski chalet; I’ve added a giant moose doll. There are lots of blankets and it’s very cosy and we all have different names for it: the kids call it the family room, my wife the living room and I the TV room, but it’s where we are. It’s where we binge The Rookie – peace on earth.

A tribute pen with earth from Combat Outpost Keating in Afghanistan, which Tapper wrote about, and dirt from the set in Bulgaria of the book’s movie adaptation © Stephen Voss

I’ve recently rediscovered the music of Bill Withers, who died last year. He was just an incredible talent. I read in his obituary that he felt he was underappreciated and he definitely was. His albums are perfect for listening to on my commute to work or while exercising.

My grooming and wellbeing people are Mesut at the Violet Salon in Georgetown, who cuts my hair every two to three weeks. Pre-pandemic, I trained at a local gym on Capitol Hill called Balance with Mike Holmes. We’ve stayed in touch this whole time and when I’m vaccinated, I’m eager to get back to it.

The place I can’t wait to go back to is St Thomas, in the US Virgin Islands. This was the first trip my wife and I took together, and the island holds very special memories. We’ve since taken trips there as a family and it’s really the perfect destination; it’s not too far from the US, you can island hop, there are great restaurants, as well as adventures such as snorkelling and fishing. We haven’t had a family adventure in a long time, so when it’s safe to go, I’m looking forward to returning to Marriott’s Frenchman’s Cove resort with my kids. It has a pool slide – it’s the simple pleasures these days, right?

My favourite websites and apps are the obvious major news and social media sites, as well as The New York Times crossword, Word Stacks and WordSpace. I also like Spelling Bee. When it comes up on my phone how much time I’ve spent on Spelling Bee at the end of the week, I realise this is what I’ve been doing.

The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Vincent van Gogh – and specifically, Starry Night. It’s not terribly original, but if money were no object, I’d love this tranquil painting in my living room. It’s interesting that such gorgeous and calm-inducing paintings are by someone who had so much personal struggle. I find his work to be very reassuring.

The podcasts I’m listening to include Conan O’Brien Needs a Friend, Fresh Air and This American Life. It’s all non-fiction, but more storytelling. If I want real news, I’ll just listen to NPR. One of my favourite podcasts is Decoder Ring from Slate, which dives into cultural mysteries and I’m eagerly waiting for the next season to drop.

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be a novelist. I really do love what I do for CNN, but my first novel, The Hellfire Club, came out in 2018, and the sequel, The Devil May Dance, is coming out in May. It’s set in 1960s Hollywood and mystery ensues. I had a great time writing it. It has allowed me to escape – especially in these past few years – an indecent and ugly political environment, as well as the tragedy and isolation of the pandemic. To be able to walk away and spend a few hours with Frank Sinatra and the Rat Pack in the middle of all that was really fun. I enjoy solving the problems and puzzles thrown up by plotlines, and also delving into history.

The world’s best antique and vintage furniture stores

A global guide to the greatest second-hand interior haunts

The eclectic experts

Alex MacArthur, Sussex “I love big pieces, both in terms of scale and impact, and there are no limits here,” says antiques dealer Alex MacArthur of her eponymous shop set in a 14th-century former Augustinian monastery in the town of Rye, on the East Sussex coast. Here, she indulges her passion for grand architectural pieces from the 17th century onwards, whether it’s a French c1890 spiral-iron staircase or an imposing 3.5m-long bronze bull she shipped over from Turin, which was snapped up for a client’s sculpture garden. Lighting is a trademark, particularly 1960s Parisian Holophane streetlights revamped for domestic use. Elisa Anniss alexmacarthur.co.uk

Galerie Half, Los Angeles Despite its name – taken from the store’s first address in a West Hollywood alley – there is nothing fractional about Galerie Half, founded by interior designer Cliff Fong and antiques dealer Cameron Smith. Its three locations in LA’s buzzy Sycamore district attract an equally buzzy clientele, such as Diane Keaton and Ellen Degeneres. The artful curation of French, Scandinavian and American pieces is a mélange, says Smith, “that people never thought to put together but which blend seamlessly”. This might be a Pierre Jeanneret desk from Chandigarh or a 19th-century stone and iron console from France. Rima Suqi galeriehalf.com

Galerie du Passage, where owner Pierre Passebon exhibits furniture designers such as Jean Royère and Guy de Rougemont © Jacques Pepion

Galerie du Passage, Paris Tucked into the glass-roofed Galerie Véro-Dodat is a treasure trove that has been visited by Princess Caroline of Monaco and Christian Louboutin. Sourcing vintage pieces from private collections, owner Pierre Passebon puts on exhibitions devoted to renowned furniture designers such as Jean Royère and Guy de Rougemont – pairing them with fetishistic photographs by filmmaker David Lynch, or images of Marlene Dietrich from his own collection. Up next: a likely one-of-a-kind lidded Gio Ponti majolica vase, made by Richard Ginori in 1923. Christina Ohly Evans galeriedupassage.com

Retrouvius, London “Saving things threatened with destruction” is how Adam Hills sums up the architectural- salvage business he set up with his wife, Maria Speake, over 25 years ago. They have rehoused thousands of tons of Iroko-wood lab tops from schools, museum display cases and lots of lighting – from factory pendants to a seven-tier Venini chandelier. The stock also provides a palette for Speake’s interior-design schemes – including Bella Freud’s Chiltern Street shop, which features terrazzo-column cladding from a Liverpool department store. “It’s a great example of what we do: taking a material, then giving it a little twist.” Victoria Woodcock retrouvius.com

The Specialists

Lahandira, Marrakech Hailed as the best carpet shop in Morocco, Lahandira is hidden away on the top floor of an old Roman Catholic church inside Marrakech’s warren-like medina and stacked floor to ceiling with rugs – both new and antique – handcrafted by Berber weavers. “My dad used to collect authentic Berber rugs,” says Ismail Bassidi, who took over the business 17 years ago and is quick to recall some of his most memorable finds: a rug from Boujaad, in central Morocco, woven in a faded mix of butterscotch, burgundy and peach-pink, and a midcentury magenta piece handmade by the Beni-Mguild tribe in the Middle Atlas Mountains. Baya Simons lahandira.com

Jamb, London “I believe we have the most outstanding selection of chimneypieces ever to have been on the open market,” says Charlotte Freemantle. She and her husband, Will Fisher, “scour the planet” for 17th- to 19th-century examples, as well as antique lighting and furniture. Of the 300 items in stock – spread across showrooms in West Hollywood and Atlanta, as well as in their own Pimlico Road space – Fisher’s favourite is a c1777-1791 neoclassical marble chimneypiece carved by British sculptor John Bacon to commemorate peace between Great Britain and the US after the American War of Independence. Nell Card jamb.co.uk

The Italian Collector, Umbria Five years ago, jewellery designer Bec Astley-Clarke relocated from London to a hilltop house in Umbria. Here, the Italophile turned her passion for the country’s antiques into a business. Treasures include a 1930s lemon-adorned vase found in Venice as well as larger pieces like a 1960s brass and mirrored-glass coffee table by Romeo Rega. “I’ve trawled flea markets in Ischia and Gubbio and cantinas in Perugia and Todi, bid at auctions in Florence, negotiated with signori in private homes in Milan and Naples and attended antiques fairs in Abruzzo,” says Astley-Clarke of her eternal quest to hunt down that special find. Clare Coulson theitaliancollector.com

Atelier Vime, Provence Benoît Rauzy and Anthony Watson established Atelier Vime after stumbling upon an 18th-century hôtel particulier in Vallabrègues, a Provencal village with a rich wicker-making heritage. Here, the pair began restoring 20th-century wicker and rattan furniture alongside creating an original line of contemporary pieces, designed by Raphaëlle Hanley and made from local materials by nearby artisans. But it’s the vintage pieces – emerald rattan armchairs by Janine Abraham, rope chandeliers by Audoux-Minnet and rattan daybeds by Louis Sognot – that lure the design-world fanbase. Pierre Yovanovitch, Rose Uniacke and David Netto are all regular customers. Clara Baldock ateliervime.com

Shiprock, Santa Fe Jed Foutz is a fifth-generation dealer in rare Native American textiles and artefacts whose clients include Ralph Lauren, interior designers and Hollywood A-listers, as well as cultural institutions such as the National Museum of the American Indian. “It’s soulful,” says Foutz of his stock, which at any one time could include a classic and highly collectable 19th-century Navajo blanket or a midcentury black-on-black ceramic vessel from San Ildefonso Pueblo. The highly Instagrammable Rug Room alone is worth the trip for its historic hand-spun textiles in saturated hues of vermilion and indigo. COE shiprocksantafe.com

Sekisen, in Kyoto, focuses on rare bamboo flower baskets, Edo-period tea sets and painted scrolls

Sekisen, Kyoto Michikazu Mizutani, a fifth-generation art dealer and an expert on Japanese history, is best known for the rare bamboo flower baskets he sells from a 125-year-old townhouse in Kyoto’s antiques-rich Ohto area. Sekisen also sells green tea and kaiseki sets – many of which date from the Edo period (17th-19th centuries) – while the store’s back room is filled with unique painted scrolls, sold by Mizutani’s equally enthusiastic sons, Yuichiro and Masaya. “We focus only on the most special pieces,” says Mizutani, whose global clients include New York’s Met and the British Museum. COE sekisen-kyoto.com

Simpson’s, Sydney A dealer since 1978, Andrew Simpson specialises in early colonial Australian antiques – such as a stately c1795-1800 set of cedar drawers with original brass plate handles and escutcheons – which he sells from his home in the Sydney suburb of Stanmore. He’s written books on Australian furniture and art pottery – another focus – while a star veneered Oyster Bay pine circular table that he sold to the Australiana Fund is used for the swearing-in of prime ministers at Government House in Canberra. VW australianantiques.com.au

Midcentury Masters

Wyeth, The Hamptons In the 25 years since Wyeth debuted in TriBeCa, owner John Birch has come to be called “a Larry Gagosian for the interior-decorator set”, with a following that includes Tomas Maier and Gwyneth Paltrow. His original mix of European and American vintage modern pieces with tribal, industrial and found objects remains much the same today, although Wyeth’s sole location is now Sagaponack, in The Hamptons. The discerning assortment might include sofas by Edward Wormely and Dieter Rams, or lamps by Lee Rosen and Gino Sarfatti, but it’s the more unusual pieces that often end up being the stars of the space: a telescope from the 1920s or a 1960s leather bear sculpture. RS wyeth.nyc

Original in Berlin, Berlin It was a fascination with “old cars and ’50s music” that prompted Lars Triesch to start collecting midcentury modern furniture 10 years ago. “It’s a whole lifestyle,” he says. What started as a small patch on Karl-Marx-Allee has transformed into a 10,000sq ft showroom frequented by the likes of gallerist Johann König and musician Paul Simon. Armchairs by Hans J Wegner, Gio Ponti lamps and Jean Prouvé credenzas are among the most treasured items to have passed through Triesch’s 2,000-strong collection, but the piece he wishes he’d never parted with is a hand-carved door by American sculptor Harold Balazs. “I’m usually not attached to things,” he says. “For me, it’s the hunt for the unknown, unique thing that’s the fun part.” Rosanna Dodds originalinberlin.com

Michael Trapp’s Connecticut store – Trapp sources everywhere from Borneo to Boston © Rachel Robshaw

Michael Trapp, Connecticut “I love 17th-century European textiles, objects created when two cultures collide, and, above all, anything from nature,” says Michael Trapp, whose 1830s Greek Revival house in bucolic West Cornwall is an Aladdin’s cave of Peloponnesian oil jars, Iranian tribal carpets and immense teak tables from Borneo. The walls burst with butterfly specimens, taxidermy birds, ostrich eggs and rare shells from Trapp’s travels – in a typical year, he ventures from south-east Asia to Europe to the north shore of Boston, where he sources from old whaling captains’ houses. “I have a curious mind – I’m always looking for the whimsical,” he says. COE michaeltrapp.com

Lorfords, Gloucestershire In Toby Lorford’s capacious Cotswolds showrooms – a former bus garage and two aircraft hangars on the outskirts of Tetbury – you’ll find 5,000 pieces of decorative antique furniture and objets d’art, from a 19th-century Alpine sleigh to a c1770 Swedish tragsoffa. “We specialise in what I fall in love with – the unique and beautiful,” says Lorford, who set up shop in 2003. His “if you love it, mix it and it will work” philosophy has drawn a local crowd: the Beckhams, Coldplay bassist Guy Berryman and restaurateur-turned-hotelier Marco Pierre White. Lucie Muir lorfordsantiques.com

The French House, York For 25 years, Stephen Hazell and Kathryn Wakefield have been turning journeys to their home in France into buying trips. “We go to country-house sales, auctions and village fairs,” says Wakefield. “We are also approached by local residents, who know us as the English couple who buy antiques.” Their finds have made The French House the place in the UK for interior designers to buy the perfect rustic farmhouse table, an 1800s Louis XV-style overmantle mirror or an upholstered 19th-century Marie Antoinette bed. Mark C O’Flaherty thefrenchhouse.co.uk

Luca Workshop, Florence If a Hollywood art director was creating an “Italian antique shop” set, the result would no doubt resemble Luca Rafanelli’s store. Just south of the Arno and Ponte Alla Carraia, it’s the place to pick up Italian architectural salvage – giant clock faces, fabulously ornate mirrors and late-18th-century wig cabinets. “I don’t focus on a certain period,” says Rafanelli. “The original patina is what is important to me. My pieces end up in country villas and Manhattan lofts.” MCOF @lucaworkshop

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The Beach Cures Everything at This Rhode Island Inn

Weekapaug Inn
Weekapaug, Rhode Island
Understated New England elegance, $$$

I first visited the Weekapaug Inn over 30 years ago for a family reunion, and I'm pleased to report that not much — or at least none of the great parts — has changed in the slightest. Founded in 1899 in traditional Cape Cod style, the quaint inn was refurbished between 2007 and 2012, and the results are a perfect mix of low-key chic and authentic coastal charm, which have earned the inn accolades like “Best Hotels in the World” (Travel + Leisure) and “Most Charming Hotels” (Reader's Digest).

Set on the Atlantic Coast overlooking a serene salt pond and a barrier beach beyond, the Inn is an ideal escape for Covid-centric times. The property is surrounded by water, natural rock formations, and an expansive lawn that allows for complete social distancing, and the management seems to have thought of every possible safety protocol. Staff wear tasteful masks in keeping with the Inn's New England aesthetic, everything is religiously wiped down (even by the valet!), and space and fresh air are in ample supply. Read more about their safety protocols here. Guests don't need to fret about every interaction here, and can, instead, can focus on eco-explorations, long beach walks, or simply tucking into a good book from the comfort of an Adirondack chair.

Book It

Rates start at $365. Click here for reservations. Or contact the Fathom Concierge and we can book your trip for you.

At a Glance

The Vibe: Cape Cod kicked up ten notches. The cedar-shingled hotel — as well as its understated pool and fitness facility — meld seamlessly into the rugged coastal surroundings

Standout Details: The sweeping views of Quonochontaug Pond peppered with Optimist sailboats. Rides on the Quonnie Queen, the inn's electric Elco boat that can be arranged at the quaint water sports shack. Guided walks with the Inn's naturalist. Stargazing tours, fishing excursions, and swimming in the heated saline pool (a rarity in this part of the world) are all relaxing highlights.

This Place Is Perfect For: Outdoorsy couples and environmentalists of all ages who want to kayak, cycle, and swim in the Atlantic surf before savoring locally sourced, world-class cuisine. It's also perfect for families whose kids can sail, make jewelry, play shuffleboard, and devour s'mores around a fire pit come nightfall.

The living room of the Osprey Suite.

Rooms: The hotel has 31 guest rooms, including four two-bedroom Signature Suites with sweeping views of the Weekapaug Yacht Club's harbor and the Atlantic Ocean across to Block Island. Pond and cove view rooms are spacious and quietly elegant. with Matouk linens in neutral shades and a light, nautical design theme throughout. Extras include individually packaged snacks like malted milk balls and Goldfish crackers — in other words, the things you crave after a day in the sun and salt — as well heated floors and towel racks. SmartTouch iPads, and TVs are concessions 21st-century living, and one of the few things that has changed since the renovation.

On Site: The Inn is a wholly contained little world. The saline pool and fitness center are generally empty, as guests are busy exploring the outdoors. Small fitness classes and yoga at dawn are available, as are multiple dining venues (see below for more details).

The nature-inclined (isn't that everyone lately?) should get to know Mark Bullinger, the hotel's resident Naturalist and Director of Recreation, who grew up sailing, clamming, and fishing around here, as is clear from his extensive knowledge of the area, which will illuminate beach walks and expeditions on bike or boat, as well as bird-watching and stargazing sessions. Captain Mark (he has a U.S. Coast Guard captain's license) also oversees the boating center and waterfront activities: kayaking, paddleboarding, and sailing. If you're sticking to land and don't want to pack gear to go hiking around, the hotel has a closet full of Hunter outdoor gear for guest use.

The Restaurant.

The Brasserie.

The Pondhouse.

The Pondhouse.

Food + Drink: Like its sister hotel down the road, Ocean House, Weekapaug Inn is a Relais & Châteaux hotel, which means the culinary program is a big reason why you're here. The Restaurant, the hotel's premiere dining venue, serves a modern take on New England coastal cuisine, with an emphasis on local ingredients: Cast Iron Baked Eggs for breakfast; New England Clam Chowder, Fish Burger, and Hot Lobster Roll for lunch. The dinner menu is divided by source: From the Pantry, From the Mill, From the Sea, From the Pasture, and From the Coop. Sunday is Family Pasta Night at The Restaurant. The culinary highlights are many, but grilled local peaches with housemade burrata, a local black bass aqua pazza, and a lobster salad that's enhanced by a minted pea emulsion and preserved Meyer lemon are not to be missed.

The Brasserie, which opened in February 2019, serves French and European dishes in a casual setting: steak tartare, duck confit, ratatouille. The Garden Room is the most relaxed, lounge-like option for drinks and the kinds of bar snacks that could easily make a stick-to-the-ribs comfort meal — fries, a Northeast Family Farms burger, and an artisanal cheese plate that celebrates local purveyors.

Weekapaug has two seasonal options, one casual and one fancy. The beachy Bathhouse serves delicious pizzas and burgers. This is where guests can permanently park it by the water's edge.The Pondhouse is a seasonal, open-air private brunch and dinner experience for up to four guests overlooking Quonochontaug Pond. The three-course menu includes ingredients from the pond (Quonnie Rock oysters, Narragansett lobster), the pasture (local Berkshire pork), and the fields (wild mushrooms, local goat cheese). Each course comes paired with a Champagne from Louis Roederer, an independent, family-run Champagne houses founded in 1776. A portion of proceeds is donated to the Ocean House Fund for Charitable Giving.

What to Do Nearby

Guests who want to explore the area should take one of the hotel's complimentary Volvos and head 15 minutes down the coast to bucolic town of Watch Hill. (The non-highway route down Atlantic Avenue offers a more scenic drive, offering local color and a side of fried Stonington sea scallops.) Once there, all the amenities and activities at Ocean House — including the amazing Oh! Spa for massages and games of squash, a legit croquet lawn, multiple restaurants overlooking the dramatic Atlantic surf, and Euro-inspired beach cabanas — are on offer.

The town of Watch Hill is full of New England charm. From the old-world Flying Horse Carousel to the homemade black raspberry ice cream at St. Clair Annex on bustling Bay Street, a stroll here feels like summer as it should be. T-shirt shops and more elevated boutiques such as KLW Design and JHuhn Custom Men's Clothing offer housewares and a range of coastal-themed gifts and looks.

Heading north from Weekapaug Inn, Dave's Coffee draws the caffeine faithful, while the Matunuck Oyster Bar in South Kingstown has the best littlenecks and cherry stone clams, as well as oysters from nearby Potter Pond. This spot is so popular that you will wait — just plan to settle in with a Narragansett lager and do some fantastic people watching on their expansive deck. If you're in need of retail therapy, head to Galapagos Boutique for its funky mix of shoes, accessories, and carefully edited clothing. Though really, you should just get back to the beach and savor every moment at the Inn.

For more fun in Rhode Island, visit Ocean House, the grand dame hotel on the beach, then eat and drink your way down the Atlantic at the state's best eateries.

The Cause: super-chef Dan Barber’s mission to save small farms

Bright orange persimmon and Green Zebra tomatoes. Red-hot Jedi jalapeno, mild Cornicabra and sweet Serrano peppers. Such are the bursting-with-colour-and-flavour contents of three mini kitchen gardens in Tarrytown, New York. All have been planted by junior cooks furloughed in the wake of Covid-19 by super-chef Dan Barber, proprietor of the award-winning Blue Hill restaurants in Greenwich Village and Westchester County.

Blue Hill at Stone Barns Farm | Image: Alice Gao

The trio were guinea pigs for the sustainability advocate’s lockdown-inspired grow-your-own initiative: resourcED. “When the restaurants closed in March, we surveyed 500 small farms across the US and 30 per cent said they were in jeopardy of bankruptcy due to reduced demand, as well as from the social-distancing measures that were put in place at farmer’s markets,” says Barber. Packaging and delivering enough individual farm boxes to match lost restaurant bulk orders proved impossible for many small farms during peak harvest.

Barber’s reaction was not only to set up a farm-box shop from his closed restaurant, but also to approach Jack Algiere of Stone Barns Farm (the location of one Blue Hill restaurant) to “see if he’d be game to have some of our cooks return and grow their own gardens”. The aim was to kickstart a worldwide educational initiative teaching young chefs (and the broader cooking-enthusiast community) about the importance of small-batch, rotational growing, to raise the profile of small farms and to support the independent food movement throughout the pandemic – and beyond. Algiere donated three pristine pieces of ground, and wrote a “recipe for a basic kitchen garden in a language that spoke to food lovers,” says Barber. And a truly grass-roots Kitchen Farming Project was born.

Jack Algiere of Stone Barns Farm wrote a “recipe” for a kitchen garden | Image: Adam Lupsha

Having launched on 11 May with just 50 gardens, the project grew to 2,800 across five continents and 66 countries in just three weeks. Now there are more than 3,200 participants, with a post-solstice recipe introduced to encourage the later planting of cabbage, kale, fennel, beet, coriander, Swiss chard and sunflowers. Barber’s starry roster of early supporters – Alain Ducasse, Daniel Humm and Yotam Ottolenghi among them – have added momentum to the social movement. “We now have chef-farmers in Slovenia and São Paulo, Australia, Japan and the UK,” says Barber. “I don’t even know chefs in Uganda or Greece, but gardens have popped up there as well, all by word of mouth.”

The Blue Hill cooks plant out seedlings

The garden “recipe” is simple: a 12 x 15 plot is divided into six suggested families of vegetables, each rotated over approximately a six-month period – and each chosen according to personal taste and individual location. But the common thread is a celebration of small farming, and the importance of diversity. 

The Blue Hill team in their garden | Image: Adam Lupsha

“This doesn’t mean just diversity of flavours or textures, but also of planting and timing,” says Barber. “Diversity is at the heart of everything healthy – every ecosystem and environment. You can’t flood your menu with just brassicas or night shades, and so [growing vegetables] becomes a lesson for cooks to see the restrictions and pleasure the seasons impose on them. This isn’t just about building a garden, but building a strong one that can produce 1,000lbs of vegetables before it’s done.”

A Kitchen Farming Project in Kyoto

“Small farms are key. It would be an environmental disaster if the legacy of this epidemic was farming on an even more industrial scale,” says Yotam Ottolenghi, whose chefs are currently tilling, planting and harvesting everything from broad beans to sorrel – with “tomatoes on the way” – in the north London garden.

“I don’t know what the future holds,” says Barber. “But building your own kitchen garden helps to create a consciousness around food waste and space, and this moment exposes just how ludicrous it is to assume waste when the resources are so clearly threatened.”

“We hope this becomes a network that catalyses local and regional change,” adds Algiere, who is one of the farmers providing one-on-one gardening consultation for those emailing from all over the world. “We’re learning from nature and from each other’s practices, and at the end of the day, people understand why small farmers are so important to our food system.”

For now, a global corps of chefs and food lovers are planting and harvesting in the hope of supplying their own restaurants and home kitchens – as well as soup kitchens and schools – with their bounty.And those without a green space or green fingers can buy a food box (10 for $150) to donate to families in need.“This is a passionate group of social-change makers,” says Algiere. “Building a garden only takes one person. Growing something is a proactive step.”

The Aesthete: Oliver Reichert’s black book of style

The CEO of Birkenstock finds an escape in cello music, model boats and walking in the Bavarian woods. By Christina Ohly Evans

My personal style signifier is a pair of perfectly broken-in black Birkenstocks, worn without socks, all year round. I wear a shearling version of the Arizona [sandal] in winter, and the Mayari style in summer. I have a pair of Arizonas that are almost 20 years old. The cork footbeds have seen many miles; they are full of memories. I own 120 pairs of Birkenstocks, but these are the most special. I’m a former American football player, which requires a lot of body mass, so I like to keep my clothing – mostly jeans, T-shirts and sweaters – simple and comfortable.

The last things I bought and loved were two grey shearling leather jackets from Frauenschuh, in Kitzbühel. I collect shearling jackets and have different weights for every season. I usually can’t buy clothes off the rack because of my size, but in Austria they tend to stock things for bigger men. Whenever I find things that fit, I buy multiples.

Reichert’s vintage handmade model boats – souvenirs from St Malo | Image: Marc Krause

My perfect soundtrack when I’m on the move would have to include Yo-Yo Ma and Ludovico Einaudi. The balance of Yo-Yo Ma’s cello and Einaudi’s piano help me tune out.

The last item of clothing I added to my wardrobe was an old-school, dark-green rain poncho from Holland & Holland. It’s very practical; I think it’s also one of the Queen’s favourites. £890

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to in the past year is Lindsay Castle in Knysna, South Africa. It’s set on the white-sand Noetzie Beach, and the rough Indian Ocean and the light are very dramatic. It’s very understated as castles go, but it was hand-built, stone by stone, and every beam was chosen by hand. It isn’t “luxury” in the traditional sense, but I think of it as an eagle’s nest – just a very relaxing and special place. noetziecastles.co.za

And the best souvenirs I’ve brought home are handmade model boats from a marine-antiques specialist in St Malo: shipbuilder or dockyard models from 1880s England and some made in Scotland in the 1930s. They sit in my home office, but I take them out on occasion and use them for pond sailing with my kids.

One of his two shearling leather jackets by Frauenschuh | Image: Marc Krause

The one artist whose work I would collect if I could is Joseph Beuys. He was one of the first people to mix art and commerce in an honest way. I’d particularly like his Continuum chalk-on-blackboard work, Capri Battery and the felt and steel Samurai Sword. He took ordinary products and branded them intelligently.

The thing I’m eyeing next is a pair of handcrafted boots from Schuh-Bertl, in Munich. These Tricouni-style leather boots will be perfect for walking my dogs in the woods. €480

A corner of Reichert’s studio | Image: Marc Krause

The best book I’ve read in the past year is The Film Club: No Work. No School… Just Three Films a Week by David Gilmour. It’s about a teenage boy whose parents have recently divorced and he asks to drop out of school. His father lets him, with the provision that they watch movies – of his choosing ­–­ together each week. They end up talking about everything from work to popular music, and it really touched me as a parent. 

The site that inspires me is the land surrounding my home in Bavaria, about 60 miles north of Munich. This part of the world centres me – the forests, the grasslands, the lakes and the farms represent total freedom.

Reichert always takes his Sony NW-WM1Z high-res audio player on his travels | Image: Marc Krause

The place I’m yearning to visit again is Benirrás beach in the north of Ibiza. When I have free time I never want to travel for 10 hours. I find the crystal-clear water and the relaxed island vibe here to be perfect. It’s just easy, and with four kids from five to 11 years old, that’s what I’m looking for. 

When I travel, I’m never without a two-to-three-day supply of underwear, T-shirts, Hermès scarves and my Sony NW-WM1Z high-res audio player: it has the purest sound and completely relaxes me.

Last music downloaded: Homeland by French-Moroccan singer Hindi Zahra

The place that keeps drawing me back is Africa. It’s the mother of the human being, and I’m continually entranced by the colours, the nature and the earth. Its biorhythms match my own. I worked as a correspondent here for several years, so I feel very tied to the land and the people. 

The last music I downloaded was Homeland by the French-Moroccan singer Hindi Zahra. I first heard her soul mix on the then-underground Austrian radio station FM4, and I find the subtle guitar and the melody very relaxing.

If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose the 1st arrondissement in Paris. You can’t beat it for the diversity and the density of excellent shops, from multi-brand stores to antiques shops and galleries – I am constantly surprised. One of the best is the concept store L’Eclaireur, which has a unique mix of clothing, furniture and ceramics. Our Birkenstock 1774 showroom dedicated to special collaborations and projects is also here, near the Hermès flagship. 

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be a farmer focused on producing high-quality food on a large scale. I’d love to grow all kinds of vegetables and raise well-treated animals, like farmers did 150 years ago. I like going with the seasons and think this might be better than running a business in a big city.

An object I would never part with is my wedding ring as it’s the ultimate bond to my family. It’s a simple, thick gold band that’s oversized and proportional to me. It’s definitely unique.

I was pleasantly surprised by Venice Beach, California. The community, the shops, the restaurants and the light are all wonderful. Everyone seems to be relaxed and balanced there, and I felt as if I’d known the people I met for 20 years. For Europeans, the greenwashing might be a bit much, but I think the energy is outstanding.

I had a memorable meal at Elements Ibiza Beach Club. It draws a very international but low-key crowd and the setting is just perfect. It’s a simple spot, where the tables are on a wooden deck on the sand and the kitchen serves the freshest seafood – grilled calamari and prawns with salt and lime vinaigrette – all with delicious olive oil. 

For a sense of escape, I like watching movies on aeroplanes – but I often spend that time looking at pictures of my family, which I find energising. 

The last hotel that blew me away was Claridge’s – as always. I’ve been everywhere, but this place is the best. Every single person who works there has an emotional intelligence that’s rare these days; they’re just so professional and kind, whether I’m travelling for business or with my family. The Fumoir is the best hotel bar too: excellent cocktails, with an old-world atmosphere. 

The travel philosophy I live by is less is more. Less time spent on the road, carry less baggage and take a streamlined approach to meetings. It’s important to separate “urgent” matters from what really counts.

Oliver Reichert on cello music, model boats and the Bavarian woods

How the CEO of Birkenstock escapes from the world

The Aesthete: Lindsey Adelman opens her black book of style

The celebrated sculptural-lighting designer loves Alumnae’s slides, land art and Afrobeats tracks. By Christina Ohly Evans

My personal style signifiers are my wedding rings: nine very thin, simple gold bands – the tiniest rings you could imagine – each embedded with teeny black and white diamonds. They’re by Satomi Kawakita, an independent designer based in Tribeca and I chose them when I lost my original wedding ring. In terms of clothing, I like modest, classic silhouettes but with a bit of bite, so my go-to designers are Rachel Comey, Maria Cornejo and Rick Owens.

Adelman’s Alumnae snakeskin slides | Image: Nicholas Calcott

The last thing I bought and loved was a kiln by Skutt. It’s a medium-sized, electric commercial model that I use for prototyping light fixtures in our studio. I’m a beginner on it, though someone on my team is super-accomplished, so he uses it to make pieces for our custom chandeliers. My son, Finn, who is 15, taught me how to throw on the wheel, and I’m loving having a new hobby. 

In my fridge you’ll always find Stella Artois, because it’s so easy to keep beer fresh and cold for a really long time. Whenever we open a bottle of wine, we never finish it before it spoils. I have zero interest in cooking, so my fridge is filled with things that give me a quick pick-me-up, like Jacques Torres dark chocolate with almonds. Jacques Torres Dark Chocolate Almond Bark, $9, from mrchocolate.com

On Adelman’s wishlist: a Mies Van der Rohe for Knoll coffee table

On my wishlist is a coffee table for my living room. I’ve been looking at the Barcelona coffee table by Mies van der Rohe for Knoll. It’s so elegant. I swap furniture all the time between my Brooklyn home, my showroom and our house in Water Mill – it’s all pretty fluid where pieces end up – and I know this simple chrome and glass design will work equally well in each of these environments. $2,053.

Adelman’s wedding rings by Satomi Kawakita | Image: Nicholas Calcott

My favourite room in my house is our living room in Brooklyn. It’s cosy and creative, and it represents a lot of what matters most to me about family life. I love the ceiling height and the sun that comes through the windows that have no shades. We have a full wall of records, turntables and books, and another wall with candle sconces. There’s a big rug, a Togo sectional by Ligne Roset, a fireplace and a backgammon board for playing with my son – and it all feels perfect throughout the seasons. 

The 1970s denim shorts that Adelman found at Mother of Cod, a vintage shop in Nova Scotia | Image: Nicholas Calcott

The design that inspires me is the Integratron in the Mojave Desert in California. It’s a giant wooden dome where you go for relaxing, healing sound baths. The architect – who built it in 1954 – claimed he received the plans from aliens. My sound bath could have been as short as 20 minutes, but it felt like 20 hours, with all of us lying on blankets in a circle and looking up at the ceiling. I was transported somewhere else entirely. The nearby Joshua Tree Natural Park is always a magical place for me too. 

Apartamento magazine

The last book I read was The Mars Room by Rachel Kushner. It’s rough, elegant and insightful all at the same time, and the language and the quality of every sentence are masterful. I think she’s one of the best living writers. 

Stella Artois – a staple in Adelman’s fridge

The last thing I added to my wardrobe was a pair of snakeskin slides by Alumnae in the West Village. It’s a great store and a great brand. I went in for mules and came out with slides in shades of black, grey and white that work with almost everything. $625.

One of Adelman’s recent reads: The Mars Room by Rachel Kushner

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be a land artist in the vein of Andy Goldsworthy and James Turrell, completely immersed in nature. I love the idea of making pieces that only look a certain way for a moment in time before nature changes them an hour later. 

“I was transported somewhere else entirely”: The Integraton in the Mojave Desert

The last meal that truly impressed me was at a restaurant called Claro, in Brooklyn. I went with my husband for our anniversary and it was delicious. I had an Ultima Bruja cocktail made with Chartreuse and birch lime – it was an incredible electric green. We shared chipotle shrimp tacos with fresh greens and a delicious short-rib and molé dish. The atmosphere is great as well – low-key with a rustic-chic Mexican vibe. 

Amaki Jasmine and Rose Nourishing Oil

My style icon is Emmanuelle Alt, editor-in-chief of Vogue Paris. She is so beautiful. French people typically look beyond anything that I can imagine looking like, and she is the epitome of this effortless chic. I love that she wears little jackets and high heels and these slightly masculine pants. She can definitely play with the boys.

Adelman in her dining room | Image: Nicholas Calcott

The grooming products I’m never without include Jasmine and Rose Nourishing Oil by Amaki, which I use for my face, body and hair. I have several of these lovely little bottles with floating rose petals that I use throughout the day. For shampoo, I like Shu Uemura’s Color Lustre for conditioning highlights. Amaki Jasmine and Rose Nourishing Oil, $27.50. Shu Uemura Color Lustre, $49.

Vinyl, books and turntables in Adelman’s living room | Image: Nicholas Calcott

The best gift I’ve received recently is Lisa Taddeo’s Three Women. It focuses on three women who were interviewed extensively about their thoughts on sexuality and desire. It was given to me by a good friend because I think it’s something that we both know is an area of our society that is not written about enough. 

The last music I downloaded was by Burna Boy. I love several of his Afrobeats tracks, including Dangote, On the Low and More Life. A woman who works in our shipping department always has her earbuds in and she’s always super-chilled-out, so I asked her what she was listening to and she sent me her playlist. This is amazing music that makes you want to dance, but in a really relaxed, mellow way. When I put Burna Boy on, I can feel the anxiety start melting away. 

A recent “find” was Mother of Cod, an incredible vintage shop in Crescent Beach, Nova Scotia. I bought a pair of faded 1970s cut-off denim shorts that had the pockets ripped off, with deep-blue denim hearts handstitched in their place. I think they’re fabulous.  

The one artist whose work I would collect if I could would be Yayoi Kusama – her Infinity Nets paintings, in particular. I admire the fact that she did something with her struggles, and made them productive. As a creative person, I find great hope in that.

An unforgettable place I’ve travelled to recently is Bali. I was there for a yoga retreat near Ubud, organised by a group called Oneworld Retreats. It was incredibly authentic and I felt immersed in the Balinese way of life, from the belief systems to the ceremonies. I stayed in one of its stone dwellings that are built into a cliffside – it’s like a terrace in the jungle with little altars everywhere, moss growing on everything and billowing smoke for added effect. I don’t like anything fancy or forced, or the western idea of luxury being imposed on another country, and this place felt like it was coming from a Balinese idea of beauty. Seven-day retreat, from $1,900. 

The best souvenir I’ve brought home is a beige linen cocktail napkin from a party at Nilufar gallery in Milan. It came with my drink, before I knew anyone at the party, or had even met the owner, Nina. We are now friends and shortly after the party I started showing my work at her gallery. This napkin always reminds me of an exciting starting point, and it was the opening up of an idea. For me, it stands for potential. 

If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose the corner of Howard and Crosby Streets in New York. There’s got to be some kind of vortex right at that spot. At Opening Ceremony, I love the kooky vibe and the clothing edit, including its own label. And I can’t resist the furniture and decorative-design store BDDW. Close by, I find stores such as de Vera every bit as inspirational as any museum in terms of the objects and jewellery, and Michele Varian is an excellent resource for housewares. 

The people I rely on for my wellbeing are both in New York: Stephen Thevenot at David Mallett Salon, who has been doing my hair for a very long time, and an acupuncturist named Thomas Droge who specialises in necks and backs. I went to him when I was getting cricks in my neck and they went away after just one appointment. His questions really brought the words out of me – the words I already had in my mouth that I just needed to spit out. I realise now that any blockage in the body is really created by thoughts. 

My favourite websites are The New Yorker for opinion pieces, and Apartamento and Pin-Up for art and design. I think Pin-Up is the best magazine on architecture and design out there. I also really love See Saw – an app that highlights art critics’ picks for the best of what’s on. You can also make a list of things you want to see in a particular city and the app makes a map and puts pins in place so you can easily access everything.

The object I would never part with is... nothing at all. I feel strongly about this because I design objects for a living, and nothing material is too precious. 

Lindsey Adelman on Alumnae’s slides, land art and Afrobeats tracks

The celebrated sculptural-lighting designer opens her black book of style

True blue: Tokyo’s cult shop for indigo style

Christina Ohly Evans visits a unique Daikanyama boutique

Known as the Brooklyn of Tokyo, Daikanyama is a hipster maze of fashion boutiques, bike shops, micro-breweries and brunch spots. This low-key neighbourhood at the edge of Shibuya is a charming mishmash of concrete structures and glassy storefronts. There’s T-Site’s modernist block of a bookshop, but also traditional wooden buildings such as Kyu Asakura House – a refined relic of the Taisho era that’s now a museum. 

A linen-canvas jacket by Blue Blue Japan, Okura’s in-house brand | Image: Yasuyuki Takagi

Copying this old-world style is Okura: a boutique on a quiet Daikanyama backstreet built to resemble a traditional Japanese storehouse, and dedicated to the centuries-old craft of indigo dyeing. Behind well-weathered noren curtains, rustic wooden beams and floorboards provide the perfect setting for a pared-back range of clothing, accessories and decorative objects. “We make items to last a lifetime,” says owner Gen Tarumi, who opened the two-storey shop in 1993. “We adhere to a made-in-Japan ethos. From the dyeing techniques we use, such as bassen and itajime, to the unisex, often modern silhouettes we design, we are proudly Japanese.” 

The traditional dye is made from leaves of the Japanese indigo plant, Persicaria tinctoria, fermented in rice wine and wheat bran to create pure tints that range in hue from a saturated navy to aqua to sky-blue. While the bassen technique uses silk-screen printing, itajime is a type of shibori resist-dyeing where the fabric is folded and sandwiched between two pieces of wood to create graphic patterns with negative spaces – used to striking effect on T-shirts and cushions. 

Blue Blue Japan silk-knit neckties, about £57 | Image: Yasuyuki Takagi

Such unique garments, infused with character and rich colour, have attracted fans from as far afield as Europe and the US. Leather-goods maker Bill Amberg goes for the “amazing shirts”, while shoemaker Tim Little of Grenson is a fan of in-house brand Blue Blue Japan, which offers pure-indigo-dyed trousers (Y26,000, about £184), as well as Sashiko coveralls (about £276) and jackets (from about £213). “Our brand is based on old farm workwear called noragi, which was mended with cloth from the inside, with the stitching seen on the outside,” says Tarumi. 

Blue Blue Japan itajime T-shirt, about £135, and example of silk-chiffon scarf | Image: Yasuyuki Takagi

Haori jackets (about £404) have a similar wabi-sabi look, patchworked from pieces of denim and displayed along the stairwell, while for women dresses and kimono-esque tops graduate through myriad indigo hues. “Indigo gradually fades over time to reveal the beauty of many different shades of blue,” says Tarumi. “It can transfer to the body, but it’s easily removed with soap and water. You might not want to wash it off, however; indigo is known to have antibacterial and insect‑repellent properties.” 

The Aesthete: Wes Gordon opens his black book of style

The creative director of Carolina Herrera has a thing for custom Prada, Sebastopol geese and Toblerone, says Christina Ohly Evans.

My personal style signifiers are black jeans, a great knit and colourful socks. The jeans are by Tom Ford, and the socks are varied, but often from Uniqlo. This is my comfortable day-to-day uniform for both work and weekends. 

Black Tom Ford jeans are part of Gordon’s day-to-day uniform | Image: Weston Wells

The last thing I bought and loved was an early-1970s green lacquered goatskin table by Aldo Tura. We just redecorated our apartment in New York and the rich malachite colour looks beautiful against the soft pink walls of the hall. 1stdibs.com.

The best gifts I’ve given recently are fresh eggs from our farm. We have 100 chickens in Connecticut and I’ve chosen the breeds by the colour of eggs they lay, from chocolate brown to celadon green to light blue. I box them and give them as presents.

Fresh eggs from his own chickens are one of his favourite gifts | Image: Weston Wells

The best gift I’ve received recently was four Sebastopol geese with beautiful curly plumage, from Martha Stewart. They are aggressive, so they protect our chickens from foxes. We haven’t lost a chicken since she gave them to us.

Martha Stewart recently gave Gordon four Sebastapol geese to keep at his farm | Image: Weston Wells

The last music I downloaded was a bit of a retro situation. I got Alanis Morissette’s Jagged Little Pill and it’s fantastic all over again. Also, Back to Black by Amy Winehouse. That entire album is still as soulful and bold as when it was released.

He has been re-listening to Jagged Little Pill by Alanis Morissette

The artists whose work I would collect if I could include Les Lalanne – I’d take a hippo bar, monkey lamp and some ginkgo chairs any day – and Helen Frankenthaler and Gauguin, for brilliant colour. I recently saw some gorgeous Gauguins at the Norton Simon Museum in LA, and I’m having a real love affair with his work. 

An unforgettable place I’ve visited in the past year is Villa Feltrinelli on Lake Garda – a boutique hotel that was the last home of Mussolini. I loved the charm and serenity of the area, and the hotel was idyllic. Our days were filled with sunshine, jumping in the lake, long lunches and afternoons spent reading. The light and the surrounding mountains were just beautiful – a perfect escape. From €1,400.

Colourful table linens brought back from India to mix and match on outdoor tables

And the best souvenirs I’ve brought home are dozens of table linens from across India. I bought them in all colours and patterns, from vibrant whites to block prints in red and orange. They’re perfect for entertaining in the summer; I mix and match them on a long outdoor table.

The best book I’ve read in the past year is The Immortalists by Chloe Benjamin. It’s the story of four siblings who learn their fate from a fortune teller. Since they know the day they will die, each chooses to live a certain way. The one who is told he will die young acts recklessly, while the one who is told she’ll get to be very old lives timidly, raising the question of which is a fuller life. 

Gordon’s favourite book of last year, The Immortalists, by Chloe Benjamin

The grooming staple I’m never without in the winter is Pure White Cologne by Creed. For summer, my staple is Virgin Mint from the Carolina Herrera Confidential collection. Confidential Virgin Mint, $159 for 100ml EDT. Pure White Cologne, £350 for 75ml.

Creed Pure White Cologne, £350 for 75ml

An indulgence I’d never forgo is milk chocolate. I like a high-low mix here. Fancy, artisanal chocolate is good, but I also adore classic candy. Toblerone is my favourite.

An object I would never part with is the Patek Philippe Calatrava watch that my husband proposed to me with. It’s simple and clean-lined, with a black leather band, and it’s a very special piece of jewellery. With a same-sex marriage proposal, you can establish new traditions around engagement.

The Patek Philippe Calatrava watch that his husband proposed with | Image: Weston Wells

A recent “find” is a London bookstore called A.Society, which I happened upon when I was looking for a present for a friend in Marylebone. I was raised by big readers and am passionate about books. I have a total aversion to headphones – they make me feel disconnected – so I’d always prefer to read than listen to something. This tiny store is incredibly well-curated, with rare first-edition fashion books and art finds.

Handblown glass vases by Gordon’s husband, Paul Arnhold | Image: Weston Wells

The last meal that truly impressed me was at Blackberry Farm in Walland, Tennessee. It was at a Fashion Weekend event for Carolina Herrera and the meals were a highlight. One dinner was set up in the place where all the vegetables were grown. The salads of sweet potato and ginger, and fresh arugula and carrots were amazing. But the best thing was the signature pimento cheese dip served with warm, baked biscuits. 

Gordon recently bought these Manolo Blahnik tasselled loafers | Image: Weston Wells

My style icons are Gianni Agnelli, Nick Charles in The Thin Man, and Mick Jagger. Agnelli – I mean, who beats that? The Neapolitan tailoring, the watch on the shirt-cuff, the hiking boots with a suit… completely effortless style. The character Nick Charles always looked so dapper. And Mick Jagger embodies an undone, easy style.

Biscuits from Sant Ambroeus, New York – Gordon always visits this restaurant when he is in the neighbourhood

My grooming and wellbeing gurus are my friend Yohey, who cuts my hair at home, and Dr Jason Piken, an incredible chiropractor and nutritionist who is helping me with an autoimmune-focused paleo diet designed to increase my energy and curb sugar cravings. 

My favourite room in my house is my bedroom. I could happily live just in this one room. It’s cosy and quiet, with a thick rug and heavy curtains.

In my fridge you’ll always find vegetables from the garden in Connecticut, as well as cider made from our 90 apple trees. Sometimes we have cheeses from nearby Arethusa Farm too. But in our New York apartment you will find exactly nothing – just three empty shelves, as we don’t eat at home. 

I have a collection of colourful suits – two dozen, in shades from bright green to sky blue to Carolina Herrera red, and many custom-made by Prada – and one made of pieces of blown-glass by my husband Paul Arnhold. 

The app I couldn’t do without is Pinterest. I think about work 24/7 and use it constantly; it’s the most amazing tool for working with my team while travelling and sharing research. I also like LiveAuctioneers – it aggregates global auctions, which is great, though I have learnt the hard way to be careful about shipping costs from far-flung places – but for daily news and updates, I look at CNN, the Financial Times, The New York Times, The Business of Fashion and WWD. 

The last item of clothing I added to my wardrobe was a coat from the CH Carolina Herrera men’s collection. It’s a dark-navy, mid-length down jacket with red piping and is a perfect transition piece from autumn to winter, and winter to spring. And a pair of blue tasselled loafers from Manolo Blahnik. Down coat, from $1,200. Shoes, £675.

If I had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, I’d choose the Upper East Side in New York, where we’ve just reopened our flagship. Madison Avenue still feels like an enchanting film set to me, with its mix of shops, cafés and galleries, and I find inspiration everywhere – just seeing strangers on the sidewalk. The Frick Collection and The Met are favourites, and Gagosian always has interesting shows. And I always buy a pink paper cup of coffee from the Italian restaurant and pastry specialist Sant Ambroeus when I am in this part of town. 

If I weren’t doing what I do, I would be a furniture designer or an architect. I’m not sure I’d be good at either, but I would enjoy both. Or maybe a lawyer. Bizarrely, I worked at a law firm during the summers while I was in school. 

If I didn’t live in New York, the city I’d live in is Los Angeles. The weather’s great, the palm trees sway in a gentle breeze and the people are fun. I could happily live at the Beverly Hills Hotel and just sit by that fabulous pool. I love The Broad contemporary art museum and I recently came across Galerie XX, which is full of incredible 20th-century design.